Ben Nevis

Climbs 357 – Rocktype Andesite – Altitude 1344m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

Access notes
For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed "North Face Car Park". An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your R. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain...

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Ben Nevis (2002), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Ben Nevis (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Ben Nevis summitsummit 965
2Carn Deargsummit 39
3Carn Dearg SWsummit 10
4Meall an t-Suidhesummit 7
 COIRE LEIS  
 LITTLE BRENVA FACE  
7Carn Mor Dearg Arete1 184
8Carn Mor Dearg AreteI **320
9Final ButtressIII 4 8
10Bob RunII **27
11MoonwalkIV 3 **18
12CrestaIII 3 **29
13Cresta DirectIV 4 *8
14SlalomIII *6
15Super GVI 6 **2
16Wall of the WindsVI 5  
17Frost BiteIV 4 3
18IsandhlwanaV 5 **1
19Route MajorIV 4 ***6
20Right MajorIV 6 *1
21The Eastern ClimbS *1
 NORTH EAST BUTTRESS  
23North East ButtressVD ***160
24North East ButtressIV 4 ***303
25The Lime Green GaiterV 6 *1
26Newbigging's 80 Minute RouteIV 4 1
27Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand VariationV 6  
28Orient ExpressE2 5c  
29Orient ExpressIX 8 **1
30Steam TrainHVS 5a  
31Steam TrainVI 7 *2
32Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right VariationVD *2
33Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right VariationIV 4 4
 OBSERVATORY GULLY  
 FIRST PLATFORM  
36Raeburns AreteS **81
37Raeburn's AreteV 6 **4
38Green Hollow RouteIV 4 *1
39Bayonet RouteHS **8
40Bayonet RouteIV 4 1
41Ruddy RocksVD 3
42Ruddy RocksIV 4  
43Slingsby's ChimneyII *69
 MINUS THREE BUTTRESS  
45Slab and Rib VariationIV 5 *3
46Right-Hand Wall RouteIV 5 *3
47Right-Hand Wall Route Direct FinishV 4 2
48WagroochimsiaIV 5 1
49Platform RibIV 4 **7
50Minus Three GullyIV 5 ***42
 MINUS TWO BUTTRESS  
52Left-hand RouteVS 4b *11
53Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)VI 6 **4
54Central RouteVI 7 1
55Central RouteHVS 5a * 
56Right-Hand RouteVI 6 *2
57Long DivisionE1 5b *2
58Minus Two ButtressV 5 *1
59Minus Two GullyV 6 ***72
 MINUS ONE BUTTRESS  
61Minus One DirectE1 5b ***54
62Minus One DirectVIII 8 *** 
63Minus One ButtressVII 6 ***4
64Minus One GullyVI 6 ***54
65Minus One Gully Direct FinishV 5 **1
 ORION FACE  
67Dark StarVI 5 *** 
68AstronomyVI 5 ***1
69Astronomy Direct FinishVI 5 **1
70AstronomyVS *1
71Smith-Holt RouteV 5 **5
72The Long ClimbVS ***74
73The Long Climb FinishVII 6 ***7
74Orion Face DirectV 5 ***209
75Orion Direct - Tower VariationsVI 5 ***8
76Astral HighwayVI 5 **36
77Space WalkVII 6 *2
78Orion DirectissimaVI 5 **8
79Slav RouteVI 5 ***34
80Orion GroovesVI 5 *1
81Zero GullyV 4 ***185
 OBSERVATORY RIDGE  
83Observatory Ridge (Summer)VD ***194
84Observatory RidgeV 4 ***117
 OBSERVATORY RIDGE WEST FACE  
86AbacusIV 4 **2
87Vade MecumV 5 ***7
88Hadrian's Wall DirectV 5 ***210
89SickleV 5 ***45
90Galactic HitchhikerVI 5 ***6
91PointlessVII 6 ***1
92Point Five GullyV 5 ***533
 OBSERVATORY BUTTRESS  
94Point BlankVII 6 1
95Left Edge RouteV 5 ***7
96Appointment with FearVII 6 * 
97Rubicon WallS *1
98Rubicon WallVI 5 ***13
99Observatory Buttress (Summer)VD *5
100Observatory ButtressV 4 ***67
101Observatory Buttress Direct FinishV 5 **9
102North-West FaceV 5 *1
 INDICATOR WALL  
104Good Friday ClimbIII ***198
105Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish)III 4 28
106Indicator WallV 4 ***123
107Indicator Right-HandV 5 ***44
108Riders on the StormVI 5 ***8
109Ship of FoolsVIII 7 1
110Arctic TernVII 5 1
111AlbatrossVI 5 ***10
112The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner DirectVII 7 ***2
113Call Me IshmaelVIII 9 ***1
114Psychedelic WallVI 5 ***39
115Satanic VersesVI 5 ***9
116Shot in the DarkV 5 **4
117CaledoniaV 5 **3
118Shot in the FootV 4 4
119Gardyloo GullyII *199
 GARDYLOO BUTTRESS  
121Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)VI 5 1
122Kellett's RouteVI 6 ***15
123Smith's RouteV 5 ***217
124The Great GlenVI 5 *3
125Right EdgeIV 4 1
126Tower GullyI 165
127Upper Tower Cascade LHIV 5 10
128Upper Tower Cascade RHIII 5
 TOWER RIDGE AREA  
 TOWER RIDGE, EAST FLANK  
131Tower ScoopIII **289
132Tower CleftIII *4
133ClefthangerVII 7 **1
134Faith HealerVIII 7 *1
135Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start)V 6 *1
136Goodeve's RouteIII 3
137The Brass MonkeyVII 8 ***2
138The Great ChimneyIV 5 **9
139Alaska HighwayIV 1
 TOWER RIDGE  
141Tower RidgeD ***924
142Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's RouteVD 1
143Great Tower Variation: Bell's RouteVD 1
144Tower RidgeIV 3 ***888
 DOUGLAS BOULDER  
146Douglas Gap East GullyI 90
147East RidgeIV 5 3
148Direct RouteVD **114
149Direct RouteIV 4 *10
150Direct Route IIS *12
151Down to the WireV 6 1
152North-West Face RouteV 5 5
153Militant ChimneyVI 6 3
154GutlessIV 5 14
155RutlessVII 8 **1
156CutlassVI 7 *41
157CutlassVS 4b *3
158JacknifeV 6 20
159South-West RidgeIV 5 **138
160Douglas Gap West GullyI *87
 SECONDARY TOWER RIDGE  
162Fawlty TowersIII *84
163Breaking GoodII *1
1641934 RouteII/III **26
165Vagabond's RibS 1
166Vanishing GullyV 5 ***204
167Fatboy SlimVI 6 *3
168Italian ClimbIII *30
169Italian Right-HandIV 4 **94
170The ChuteV 4 *2
 GARADH NA CISTE  
172Garadh GullyII *195
173Garadh ButtressII *3
174TheaIII *2
175Crying Out LoudIV 5 *2
176Broad GullyII 11
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS OF THE TOWER  
178StringfellowVI 6 ***16
179Smooth OperatorVI 7 1
180Pinnacle Buttress DirectV 5 **4
181Glovers ChimneyIII 4 ***249
 GOODEVE'S BUTTRESS  
183The GutterIV 4 ***9
184The White LineIII **71
 RAEBURN'S WALL  
186Raeburn's Easy RouteII ***117
187The Blue HorizonIV 4 1
188The CascadeIV 5 **62
189Expert's ChoiceIII **21
190Raeburn's not so EasyIII 4 14
191La Panthere RoseVI 6 *2
 COIRE NA CISTE  
 NUMBER TWO GULLY BUTTRESS  
194Five Finger DiscountIV 4 10
195Burrito's GrooveIV 5 **7
196JP Is BackIV 4 *4
197BD was HereIII *3
198Number Two Gully ButtressIII ***84
199Number Two GullyII ***358
 COMB GULLY BUTTRESS  
201Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - LeftV 6  
202Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - RightIV 4  
203Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - RightmostIV 4 1
204Comb Gully ButtressIV 4 **46
205Comb Gully Buttress - Annick ExitIV 5 2
206Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle FinishV 5 *2
207Clough's ChimneyVI 6 *3
208Roaring FortiesV 5 **2
209Big Bad BenVII 7  
210Comb GullyIV 4 ***434
 THE COMB  
212Hesperides LedgeIII **2
213The Good GrooveVII 7 ** 
214Quisling WallVI 6 * 
215Lost SoulsVI 6 2
216Tower Face of the CombVI 6 ***28
217AnubisXI 11 *** 
218AnubisE8 6c *** 
219Don't Die of IgnoranceXI 11 3
220Pigott's RouteV 6 *1
221MercuryV 5 **3
222Green GullyIV 3 ***641
 NUMBER THREE GULLY BUTTRESS  
224VenusV 5 * 
225AphroditeIV 4 **8
226TrampIV 4 *1
227DianaV 5 **13
228VultureV 5 ** 
229Number Three Gully ButtressIII ***253
230QuickstepV 5 *10
231Boston Two StepVI 6 * 
232Two-Step CornerV 5 **103
233KnuckledusterVIII 9 2
234KnuckledusterHVS 5a ** 
235Knuckleduster DirectVIII 9 **1
236Curly's AreteVIII 8 *1
237Sioux WallVIII 8 17
238Sioux WallHVS 5a **1
239Tomahawk CrackVIII 9 ***3
240ApacheVIII 8 **4
241Thompson's RouteIV 4 ***162
242GremlinsVI 6 **4
243Gargoyle WallVI 6 ***49
244HobgoblinVI 7 **2
245BabylonVII 8 **16
246CollaborationVI 7 ** 
247Snuff WallVIII 8 1
248SakeVIII 9 **1
249Winter ChimneyV 5 **12
250El NinoIII 4 2
251Winter CascadeIV 5 *12
252Number Three GullyI **257
253Number Three Gully (Variation finish)II 11
 CREAG COIRE NA CISTE  
255To Those Who WaitIX 9 ***1
256The SecretIX 9 ***9
257CatrionaVIII 8  
258CornucopiaVII 9 **6
259Darth VaderVII 8 ***32
260Han SoloVIII 7 **1
261Storm TrooperVIII 8  
262Anvenging Angel DirectVIII 8 3
263South Sea BubbleVII 6 ** 
264South GullyIII *44
265Lost The PlaceV 5 ***26
266Une Journee OrdinaireV 6 **5
267LevitationVI 6 *1
268Central Gully, Creag Coire na CisteIII 4 **53
269Central Gully Right-HandIV 4 ***125
270WendigoIV 4 **28
271Place Your BetsVI 6 **1
272North GullyII 164
273North Gully - The Left ForkIV 5 **4
274The GiftIII 4 13
275Four PlayIV 4 3
276Number Four GullyI **412
277Number Four Gully Buttress3 1
 SOUTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
2791944 RouteS *7
280The MingeVII 8 **1
281The Groove ClimbV 6 *3
282SidewinderHVS 5a **9
283SidewinderVII 8 **9
284Strident EdgeVS 4c **6
285Strident Edge (winter)VI 7 ***7
286DevastationE1 5b ** 
287Devastation (Winter)VII 8 **3
288SpartacusVS 4c  
289Spartacus WinterVI 7  
290The Slab ClimbS *1
291The Slab ClimbVI 7 **13
292The ClangerIV 5 **8
293Pinnacle AreteIV 4 *7
294Pinnacle AreteVD **9
295Joyful ChimneysIV 4 4
296Central Gully, South Trident ButtressIII *17
297NasturtiumIV 4 *4
298JubilationIV 4 *11
 JUBILEE BUTTRESS  
300Jubilee ClimbVD  
301Jubilee ClimbII 9
302Mega ReveVI 6 * 
 CENTRAL TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
304SteamHVS 5a *1
305Feeding FrenzyVI 7 * 
306Mega Route XV 6 ***25
307HeidbangerE1 5b *4
308Heidbanger (Winter)VIII 8 *2
309MetamorphosisE2 5b **1
 NORTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
311Neptune GullyIII 20
312North Trident ButtressIII **22
313Moonlight GullyII *46
 MOONLIGHT GULLY BUTTRESS  
315Fifties RevivalIV 6 1
316Diagonal RouteIII 11
317The Big CheeseVIII 8 **3
318Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully ButtressIV 4 **16
319Phosphorescent GroovesIII 4 *2
320Take OffIV 5 1
321Number Five GullyI **133
 NUMBER FIVE GULLY BUTTRESS  
323Free RangeVII 7 ***3
324Ledge RouteII ***865
325Ledge Route2 ***312
 CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS  
 CAIRN DEARG CASCADE  
328Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC IcefallV 5 ***38
329Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC IcefallIV 4 *56
 CARN DEARG BUTTRESS  
331Curtain RailIV 4 *22
332Mourning SlabVS  
333The BlindVS 4b * 
334The CurtainIV 5 ***248
335Route IVI 6 ***18
336Route IS **15
337Route I Direct StartVI 6 *15
338PMVS 4c * 
339Route II DirectVI 6 ***6
340Route ll DirectS ***19
341DissectionHVS 5a  
342The ShadowVS 4c **6
343The BullroarHVS 5a ***38
344Adrenalin RushE3 6a  
345CowslipE2 5c  
346TorroE2 5b ***63
347Red RagE2 5c ** 
348CenturionHVS 5a ***235
349Centurion (Winter)VIII 8 **6
350King KongE2 5c ***21
351Trajan's ColumnE6 6b *** 
352The BatE2 5b ***54
353The WickedE6 6b * 
354SassenachE1 5b **3
355The Banana GrooveE4 6a ***7
356AgrippaE5 6b ***4
357CaligulaE3 5c **4
358Titan's WallE3 5c ***28
359BoadiceaE4 6a **1
360Shield DirectVII 7 ***3
361Shield DirectHVS 5a **2
362GeminiVI 6 ***31
363The BewildabeastVI 6 ***4
364Waterfall GullyIV 4 *83
365Waterfall Gully, True FinishVI 6 **2
366The TrialE3 5c **2
 NORTH WALL OF CARN DEARG  
 COUSIN'S BUTTRESS  
369Harrison's Climb DirectIV 4 ***47
370CousinadeVII 8 **2
 RAEBURN'S BUTTRESS  
372Boomer's RequiemV 5 ***59
373Raeburn's ButtressIV 5 **20
374The CrackHVS 5a  
375The CrackVIII 8 ***1
376Teufel GroovesIX 9 **1
377The ShroudVI 6 **11
 CASTLE CORRIE  
379Compression CrackV 5 **41
380South Castle GullyII *42
381Plum DuffV 5 **1
382The CastleIII *24
383The Castle DirectIV 4 1
384North Castle GullyII *44
 CASTLE RIDGE  
386Castle RidgeIII **266
387Castle RidgeM **170
 CASTLE RIDGE, NORTH FACE  
389The SerpentII *3
390The MoatII **3
391Lobby DancerVI 6 *** 
392NordwandIV 3 **22
393Nordwand directIV 5 6
 GLEN NEVIS (SW) FLANK  
395Five Finger GullyIV 4 **1
396Surgeon's Rib1 1
397Surgeon's GullyV 5 ** 
398Polldubh GullyIV 5 ** 
399Steal WaterfallIII 3
400Sron Na Lairig Ridge2 **2
401Zybernaught *VI 6 *** 
402Shot in the Back *IV 4 *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TonyM

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nath93 - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04