Ben Nevis

Climbs 359 – Rocktype Andesite – Altitude 1344m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

Approach notes
For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed "North Face Car Park". An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your R. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain...

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), Ben Nevis (2002), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Ben Nevis (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Ben Nevis summitsummit 1045
2Carn Deargsummit 41
3Carn Dearg SWsummit 11
4Meall an t-Suidhesummit 8
 COIRE LEIS  
 LITTLE BRENVA FACE  
7Carn Mor Dearg Arete1 199
8Carn Mor Dearg AreteI **339
9Final ButtressIII 4 10
10Bob RunII **28
11MoonwalkIV 3 **18
12CrestaIII 3 **31
13Cresta DirectIV 4 *8
14SlalomIII *6
15Super GVI 6 **2
16Wall of the WindsVI 5  
17Frost BiteIV 4 3
18IsandhlwanaV 5 **1
19Route MajorIV 4 ***6
20Right MajorIV 6 *1
21The Eastern ClimbS *1
 NORTH EAST BUTTRESS  
23North East ButtressVD ***166
24North East ButtressIV 4 ***311
25The Lime Green GaiterV 6 *1
26Newbigging's 80 Minute RouteIV 4 1
27Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand VariationV 6  
28Orient ExpressE2 5c  
29Orient ExpressIX 8 **1
30Steam TrainHVS 5a  
31Steam TrainVI 7 *2
32Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right VariationVD *3
33Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right VariationIV 4 4
 OBSERVATORY GULLY  
 FIRST PLATFORM  
36Raeburns AreteS **86
37Raeburn's AreteV 6 **4
38Green Hollow RouteIV 4 *1
39Bayonet RouteHS **8
40Bayonet RouteIV 4 1
41Ruddy RocksVD 3
42Ruddy RocksIV 4  
43Slingsby's ChimneyII *71
 MINUS THREE BUTTRESS  
45Slab and Rib VariationIV 5 *3
46Right-Hand Wall RouteIV 5 *3
47Right-Hand Wall Route Direct FinishV 4 2
48WagroochimsiaIV 5 1
49Platform RibIV 4 **7
50Minus Three GullyIV 5 ***42
 MINUS TWO BUTTRESS  
52Left-hand RouteVS 4b *11
53Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)VI 6 **4
54Central RouteVI 7 1
55Central RouteHVS 5a * 
56Right-Hand RouteVI 6 *2
57Long DivisionE1 5b *2
58Minus Two ButtressV 5 *1
59Minus Two GullyV 6 ***76
 MINUS ONE BUTTRESS  
61Minus One DirectE1 5b ***54
62Minus One DirectVIII 8 *** 
63Minus One ButtressVII 6 ***4
64Minus One GullyVI 6 ***54
65Minus One Gully Direct FinishV 5 **1
 ORION FACE  
67Dark StarVI 5 *** 
68AstronomyVI 5 ***1
69Astronomy Direct FinishVI 5 **1
70AstronomyVS *1
71Smith-Holt RouteV 5 **6
72The Long ClimbVS ***77
73The Long Climb FinishVII 6 ***7
74Orion Face DirectV 5 ***213
75Orion Direct - Tower VariationsVI 5 ***8
76ZybernaughtVI 6 **1
77Astral HighwayVI 5 **37
78Space WalkVII 6 *3
79Orion DirectissimaVI 5 **8
80Slav RouteVI 5 ***35
81Orion GroovesVI 5 *1
82Zero GullyV 4 ***190
 OBSERVATORY RIDGE  
84Observatory Ridge (Summer)VD ***202
85Observatory RidgeV 4 ***119
 OBSERVATORY RIDGE WEST FACE  
87AbacusIV 4 **2
88Vade MecumV 5 ***7
89Hadrian's Wall DirectV 5 ***235
90SickleV 5 ***48
91Galactic HitchhikerVI 5 ***6
92PointlessVII 6 ***1
93Point Five GullyV 5 ***537
 OBSERVATORY BUTTRESS  
95Point BlankVII 6 1
96Left Edge RouteV 5 ***7
97Appointment with FearVII 6 * 
98Rubicon WallS *1
99Rubicon WallVI 5 ***13
100Observatory Buttress (Summer)VD *7
101Observatory ButtressV 4 ***69
102Observatory Buttress Direct FinishV 5 **9
103North-West FaceV 5 *1
 INDICATOR WALL  
105Good Friday ClimbIII ***209
106Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish)III 4 28
107Indicator WallV 4 ***134
108Indicator Right-HandV 5 ***47
109Riders on the StormVI 5 ***9
110Ship of FoolsVIII 7 1
111Arctic TernVII 5 1
112AlbatrossVI 5 ***10
113The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner DirectVII 7 ***2
114Call Me IshmaelVIII 9 ***1
115Psychedelic WallVI 5 ***44
116Satanic VersesVI 5 ***10
117Shot in the DarkV 5 **4
118CaledoniaV 5 **3
119Shot in the BackIV 4 *1
120Shot in the FootV 4 4
121Gardyloo GullyII *202
 GARDYLOO BUTTRESS  
123Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)VI 5 1
124Kellett's RouteVI 6 ***15
125Smith's RouteV 5 ***227
126The Great GlenVI 5 *3
127Right EdgeIV 4 1
128Tower GullyI 173
129Upper Tower Cascade LHIV 5 11
130Upper Tower Cascade RHIII 6
 TOWER RIDGE AREA  
 TOWER RIDGE, EAST FLANK  
133Tower ScoopIII **310
134Tower CleftIII *5
135ClefthangerVII 7 **1
136Faith HealerVIII 7 *1
137Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start)V 6 *1
138Goodeve's RouteIII 3
139The Brass MonkeyVII 8 ***2
140The Great ChimneyIV 5 **9
141Alaska HighwayIV 1
 TOWER RIDGE  
143Tower RidgeD ***971
144Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's RouteVD 1
145Great Tower Variation: Bell's RouteVD 2
146Tower RidgeIV 3 ***917
 DOUGLAS BOULDER  
148Douglas Gap East GullyI 92
149East RidgeIV 5 3
150Direct RouteVD **121
151Direct RouteIV 4 *12
152Direct Route IIS *13
153Down to the WireV 6 1
154North-West Face RouteV 5 5
155Militant ChimneyVI 6 3
156GutlessIV 5 16
157RutlessVII 8 **1
158CutlassVI 7 *41
159CutlassVS 4b *3
160JacknifeV 6 20
161South-West RidgeIV 5 **141
162Douglas Gap West GullyI *90
 SECONDARY TOWER RIDGE  
164Fawlty TowersIII *84
165Breaking GoodII *1
1661934 RouteII/III **27
167Vagabond's RibS 1
168Vanishing GullyV 5 ***215
169Fatboy SlimVI 6 *3
170Italian ClimbIII *30
171Italian Right-HandIV 4 **103
172The ChuteV 4 *2
 GARADH NA CISTE  
174Garadh GullyII *196
175Garadh ButtressII *3
176TheaIII *2
177Crying Out LoudIV 5 *2
178Broad GullyII 11
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS OF THE TOWER  
180StringfellowVI 6 ***16
181Smooth OperatorVI 7 1
182Pinnacle Buttress DirectV 5 **4
183Glovers ChimneyIII 4 ***253
 GOODEVE'S BUTTRESS  
185The GutterIV 4 ***11
186The White LineIII **75
 RAEBURN'S WALL  
188Raeburn's Easy RouteII ***118
189The Blue HorizonIV 4 1
190The CascadeIV 5 **64
191Expert's ChoiceIII **22
192Raeburn's not so EasyIII 4 14
193La Panthere RoseVI 6 *3
 COIRE NA CISTE  
 NUMBER TWO GULLY BUTTRESS  
196Five Finger DiscountIV 4 10
197Burrito's GrooveIV 5 **7
198JP Is BackIV 4 *4
199BD was HereIII *3
200Number Two Gully ButtressIII ***84
201Number Two GullyII ***362
 COMB GULLY BUTTRESS  
203Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - LeftV 6  
204Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - RightIV 4  
205Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - RightmostIV 4 1
206Comb Gully ButtressIV 4 **46
207Comb Gully Buttress - Annick ExitIV 5 2
208Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle FinishV 5 *3
209Clough's ChimneyVI 6 *3
210Roaring FortiesV 5 **2
211Big Bad BenVII 7  
212Comb GullyIV 4 ***438
 THE COMB  
214Hesperides LedgeIII **2
215The Good GrooveVII 7 ** 
216Quisling WallVI 6 * 
217Lost SoulsVI 6 2
218Tower Face of the CombVI 6 ***28
219AnubisXI 11 *** 
220AnubisE8 6c *** 
221Don't Die of IgnoranceXI 11 3
222Pigott's RouteV 6 *1
223MercuryV 5 **3
224Green GullyIV 3 ***660
 NUMBER THREE GULLY BUTTRESS  
226VenusV 5 * 
227AphroditeIV 4 **8
228TrampIV 4 *1
229DianaV 5 **13
230VultureV 5 ** 
231Number Three Gully ButtressIII ***256
232QuickstepV 5 *10
233Boston Two StepVI 6 * 
234Two-Step CornerV 5 **104
235KnuckledusterVIII 9 2
236KnuckledusterHVS 5a ** 
237Knuckleduster DirectVIII 9 **1
238Curly's AreteVIII 8 *1
239Sioux WallVIII 8 17
240Sioux WallHVS 5a **1
241Tomahawk CrackVIII 9 ***3
242ApacheVIII 8 **4
243Thompson's RouteIV 4 ***164
244GremlinsVI 6 **4
245Gargoyle WallVI 6 ***50
246HobgoblinVI 7 **2
247BabylonVII 8 **16
248CollaborationVI 7 ** 
249Snuff WallVIII 8 1
250SakeVIII 9 **1
251Winter ChimneyV 5 **12
252El NinoIII 4 2
253Winter CascadeIV 5 *12
254Number Three GullyI **261
255Number Three Gully (Variation finish)II 11
 CREAG COIRE NA CISTE  
257To Those Who WaitIX 9 ***1
258The SecretIX 9 ***9
259CatrionaVIII 8  
260CornucopiaVII 9 **6
261Darth VaderVII 8 ***33
262Han SoloVIII 7 **1
263Storm TrooperVIII 8  
264Anvenging Angel DirectVIII 8 3
265South Sea BubbleVII 6 ** 
266South GullyIII *44
267Lost The PlaceV 5 ***27
268Une Journee OrdinaireV 6 **5
269LevitationVI 6 *1
270Central Gully, Creag Coire na CisteIII 4 **53
271Central Gully Right-HandIV 4 ***125
272WendigoIV 4 **28
273Place Your BetsVI 6 **1
274North GullyII 165
275North Gully - The Left ForkIV 5 **4
276The GiftIII 4 13
277Four PlayIV 4 3
278Number Four GullyI **421
279Number Four Gully Buttress3 2
 SOUTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
2811944 RouteS *8
282The MingeVII 8 **1
283The Groove ClimbV 6 *3
284SidewinderHVS 5a **9
285SidewinderVII 8 **9
286Strident EdgeVS 4c **10
287Strident Edge (winter)VI 7 ***7
288DevastationE1 5b ** 
289Devastation (Winter)VII 8 **3
290SpartacusVS 4c  
291Spartacus WinterVI 7  
292The Slab ClimbS *1
293The Slab ClimbVI 7 **13
294The ClangerIV 5 **8
295Pinnacle AreteIV 4 *7
296Pinnacle AreteVD **10
297Joyful ChimneysIV 4 4
298Central Gully, South Trident ButtressIII *18
299NasturtiumIV 4 *5
300JubilationIV 4 *15
 JUBILEE BUTTRESS  
302Jubilee ClimbVD  
303Jubilee ClimbII 9
304Mega ReveVI 6 * 
 CENTRAL TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
306SteamHVS 5a *1
307Feeding FrenzyVI 7 * 
308Mega Route XV 6 ***25
309HeidbangerE1 5b *4
310Heidbanger (Winter)VIII 8 *2
311MetamorphosisE2 5b **1
 NORTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
313Neptune GullyIII 20
314North Trident ButtressIII **22
315Moonlight GullyII *48
 MOONLIGHT GULLY BUTTRESS  
317Fifties RevivalIV 6 1
318Diagonal RouteIII 11
319The Big CheeseVIII 8 **3
320Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully ButtressIV 4 **16
321Phosphorescent GroovesIII 4 *2
322Take OffIV 5 1
323Number Five GullyI **139
 NUMBER FIVE GULLY BUTTRESS  
325Free RangeVII 7 ***3
326Ledge RouteII ***882
327Ledge Route2 ***326
 CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS  
 CAIRN DEARG CASCADE  
330Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC IcefallV 5 ***38
331Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC IcefallIV 4 *56
 CARN DEARG BUTTRESS  
333Curtain RailIV 4 *22
334Mourning SlabVS  
335The BlindVS 4b * 
336The CurtainIV 5 ***253
337Route IVI 6 ***18
338Route IS **15
339Route I Direct StartVI 6 *15
340PMVS 4c * 
341Route II DirectVI 6 ***6
342Route ll DirectS ***20
343DissectionHVS 5a  
344The ShadowVS 4c **6
345The BullroarHVS 5a ***43
346Adrenalin RushE3 6a  
347CowslipE2 5c  
348TorroE2 5b ***64
349Red RagE2 5c ** 
350CenturionHVS 5a ***245
351Centurion (Winter)VIII 8 **6
352King KongE2 5c ***24
353Trajan's ColumnE6 6b *** 
354The BatE2 5b ***57
355The WickedE6 6b * 
356SassenachE1 5b **3
357The Banana GrooveE4 6a ***9
358AgrippaE5 6b ***4
359CaligulaE3 5c **4
360Titan's WallE3 5c ***28
361BoadiceaE4 6a **1
362Shield DirectVII 7 ***4
363Shield DirectHVS 5a **2
364GeminiVI 6 ***32
365The BewildabeastVI 6 ***5
366Waterfall GullyIV 4 *83
367Waterfall Gully, True FinishVI 6 **2
368The TrialE3 5c **2
 NORTH WALL OF CARN DEARG  
 COUSIN'S BUTTRESS  
371Harrison's Climb DirectIV 4 ***52
372CousinadeVII 8 **2
 RAEBURN'S BUTTRESS  
374Boomer's RequiemV 5 ***60
375Raeburn's ButtressIV 5 **20
376The CrackHVS 5a  
377The CrackVIII 8 ***1
378Teufel GroovesIX 9 **1
379The ShroudVI 6 **12
 CASTLE CORRIE  
381Compression CrackV 5 **41
382South Castle GullyII *44
383Plum DuffV 5 **1
384The CastleIII *25
385The Castle DirectIV 4 1
386North Castle GullyII *45
 CASTLE RIDGE  
388Castle RidgeIII **275
389Castle RidgeM **183
 CASTLE RIDGE, NORTH FACE  
391The SerpentII *3
392The MoatII **3
393Lobby DancerVI 6 *** 
394NordwandIV 3 **22
395Nordwand directIV 5 6
 GLEN NEVIS (SW) FLANK  
397Five Finger GullyIV 4 **1
398Surgeon's Rib1 1
399Surgeon's GullyV 5 ** 
400Polldubh GullyIV 5 ** 
401Steal WaterfallIII 3
402Sron Na Lairig Ridge2 **2
403Surprise GullyII *1
404The Comb - Left FlankIV 4 *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nath93 - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04