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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref NN 166712 (OS Landranger #41)

Ben Nevis

Highland, SCOTLAND

Climbs 320 – Rocktype Andesite – Altitude 1344m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

Weather forecast

Today	Sun	Mon	Tue	Wed

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Northwest Highlands – Met Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Ben Nevis (2002), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Ben Nevis (1994)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

1	Ben Nevis summit	summit	644
2	Carn Dearg	summit	18
3	Carn Dearg SW	summit	5
4	Meall an t-Suidhe	summit	4
	COIRE LEIS
	LITTLE BRENVA FACE
7	Carn Mor Dearg Arete	1	110
8	Carn Mor Dearg Arete	I **	221
9	Final Buttress	III 4	7
10	Bob Run	II **	23
11	Moonwalk	IV 3 **	17
12	Cresta	III 3 **	24
13	Cresta Direct	IV 4 *	6
14	Slalom	III *	4
15	Super G	VI 6 **
16	Wall of the Winds	VI 5
17	Frost Bite	IV 4	2
18	Isandhlwana	V 5 **
19	Route Major	IV 4 ***	5
20	Right Major	IV 6 *	1
21	The Eastern Climb	S *	1
	NORTH EAST BUTTRESS
23	North East Buttress	VD ***	107
24	North East Buttress	IV 4 ***	251
25	The Lime Green Gaiter	V 6 *	1
26	Newbigging's 80 Minute Route	IV 4	1
27	Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand Variation	V 6
28	Orient Express	E2 5c
29	Steam Train	HVS 5a
30	Steam Train	VI 7 *	1
31	Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation	VD *	1
32	Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation	IV 4	2
	OBSERVATORY GULLY
	FIRST PLATFORM
35	Raeburns Arete	S **	63
36	Raeburn's Arete	V 6 **	3
37	Green Hollow Route	IV 4 *	1
38	Bayonet Route	HS **	8
39	Bayonet Route	IV 4	1
40	Ruddy Rocks	VD	1
41	Ruddy Rocks	IV 4
42	Slingsby's Chimney	II *	47
	MINUS THREE BUTTRESS
44	Slab and Rib Variation	IV 5 *	3
45	Right-Hand Wall Route	IV 5 *	2
46	Right-Hand Wall Route Direct Finish	V 4	1
47	Wagroochimsia	IV 5	1
48	Platform Rib	IV 4 **	6
49	Minus Three Gully	IV 5 ***	33
	MINUS TWO BUTTRESS
51	Left-hand Route	VS 4b *	9
52	Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)	VI 6 **	1
53	Central Route	VI 7	1
54	Central Route	HVS 5a *
55	Right-Hand Route	VI 6 *	1
56	Long Division	E1 5b *	2
57	Minus Two Buttress	V 5 *	1
58	Minus Two Gully	V 6 ***	49
	MINUS ONE BUTTRESS
60	Minus One Direct	E1 5b ***	47
61	Minus One Buttress	VII 6 ***	4
62	Minus One Gully	VI 6 ***	45
63	Minus One Gully Direct Finish	V 5 **	1
	ORION FACE
65	Astronomy	VI 5 ***	1
66	Astronomy Direct Finish	VI 5 **
67	Astronomy	VS *	1
68	Smith-Holt Route	V 5 **	5
69	The Long Climb	VS ***	53
70	The Long Climb Finish	VII 6 ***	5
71	Orion Face Direct	V 5 ***	162
72	Orion Direct - Tower Variations	VI 5 ***	8
73	Astral Highway	VI 5 **	26
74	Space Walk	VII 6 *	2
75	Orion Directissima	VI 5 **	4
76	Slav Route	VI 5 ***	29
77	Orion Grooves	VI 5 *	1
78	Zero Gully	V 4 ***	149
	OBSERVATORY RIDGE
80	Observatory Ridge (Summer)	VD ***	134
81	Observatory Ridge	V 4 ***	82
	OBSERVATORY RIDGE WEST FACE
83	Abacus	IV 4 **	1
84	Vade Mecum	V 5 ***	4
85	Hadrian's Wall Direct	V 5 ***	136
86	Sickle	V 5 ***	35
87	Galactic Hitchhiker	VI 5 ***	3
88	Pointless	VII 6 ***
89	Point Five Gully	V 5 ***	415
	OBSERVATORY BUTTRESS
91	Point Blank	VII 6	1
92	Left Edge Route	V 5 ***	7
93	Appointment with Fear	VII 6 *
94	Rubicon Wall	VI 5 ***	9
95	Observatory Buttress (Summer)	VD *	3
96	Observatory Buttress	V 4 ***	56
97	Observatory Buttress Direct Finish	V 5 **	8
98	North-West Face	V 5 *	1
	INDICATOR WALL
100	Good Friday Climb	III ***	170
101	Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish)	III 4	24
102	Indicator Wall	V 4 ***	92
103	Indicator Right-Hand	V 5 ***	30
104	Riders on the Storm	VI 5 ***	3
105	Ship of Fools	VIII 7	1
106	Arctic Tern	VII 5
107	Albatross	VI 5 ***	7
108	The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner Direct	VII 7 ***	1
109	Psychedelic Wall	VI 5 ***	27
110	Satanic Verses	VI 5 ***	4
111	Shot in the Dark	V 5 **	4
112	Caledonia	V 5 **	2
113	Shot in the Foot	V 4	4
114	Gardyloo Gully	II *	182
	GARDYLOO BUTTRESS
116	Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)	VI 5	1
117	Kellett's Route	VI 6 ***	6
118	Smith's Route	V 5 ***	161
119	The Great Glen	VI 5 *	3
120	Right Edge	IV 4	1
121	Tower Gully	I	129
122	Upper Tower Cascade LH	IV 5	8
123	Upper Tower Cascade RH	III	3
	TOWER RIDGE AREA
	TOWER RIDGE, EAST FLANK
126	Tower Scoop	III **	249
127	Tower Cleft	III *	4
128	Faith Healer	VIII 7 *	1
129	Goodeve's Route	III	2
130	The Brass Monkey	VII 8 ***
131	The Great Chimney	IV 5 **	3
	TOWER RIDGE
133	Tower Ridge	D ***	679
	CARN DEARG
135	Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's Route	VD	1
136	Great Tower Variation: Bell's Route	VD	1
137	Tower Ridge	IV 3 ***	660
	DOUGLAS BOULDER
139	Douglas Gap East Gully	I	58
140	Direct Route	VD **	89
141	Direct Route	IV 4 *	5
142	Direct Route II	S *	11
143	Down to the Wire	V 6	1
144	North-West Face Route	V 5	4
145	Gutless	IV 5	6
146	Cutlass	VI 7 *	25
147	Cutlass	VS 4b *	2
148	Jacknife	V 6	8
149	South-West Ridge	IV 5 **	65
150	Douglas Gap West Gully	I *	53
	SECONDARY TOWER RIDGE
152	Fawlty Towers	III *	55
153	1934 Route	II/III **	16
154	Vagabond's Rib	S	1
155	Vanishing Gully	V 5 ***	150
156	Fatboy Slim	VI 6 *	3
157	Italian Climb	III *	28
158	Italian Right-Hand	IV 4 **	59
159	The Chute	V 4 *
	GARADH NA CISTE
161	Garadh Gully	II *	159
162	Garadh Buttress	II *	2
163	Crying Out Loud	IV 5 *	2
164	Broad Gully	II	6
	PINNACLE BUTTRESS OF THE TOWER
166	Stringfellow	VI 6 ***	15
167	Smooth Operator	VI 7	1
168	Pinnacle Buttress Direct	V 5 **	3
169	Glovers Chimney	III 4 ***	208
	GOODEVE'S BUTTRESS
171	The Gutter	IV 4 ***	5
172	The White Line	III **	54
	RAEBURN'S WALL
174	Raeburn's Easy Route	II ***	105
175	The Blue Horizon	IV 4	1
176	The Cascade	IV 5 **	52
177	Expert's Choice	III **	17
178	Raeburn's not so Easy	III 4	14
	COIRE NA CISTE
	NUMBER TWO GULLY BUTTRESS
181	Five Finger Discount	IV 4	10

	Climb name	Grade	x

182	Burrito's Groove	IV 5 **	7
183	JP Is Back	IV 4 *	4
184	BD was Here	III *	2
185	Number Two Gully Buttress	III ***	73
186	Number Two Gully	II ***	317
	COMB GULLY BUTTRESS
188	Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Left	V 6
189	Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Right	IV 4
190	Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Rightmost	IV 4	1
191	Comb Gully Buttress	IV 4 **	35
192	Comb Gully Buttress - Annick Exit	IV 5	2
193	Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle Finish	V 5 *	1
194	Clough's Chimney	VI 6 *	1
195	Roaring Forties	V 5 **	2
196	Big Bad Ben	VII 7
197	Comb Gully	IV 4 ***	367
	THE COMB
199	Hesperides Ledge	III **	2
200	The Good Groove	VII 7 **
201	Quisling Wall	VI 6 *
202	Lost Souls	VI 6	2
203	Tower Face of the Comb	VI 6 ***	23
204	Don't Die of Ignorance	XI 11	3
205	Pigott's Route	V 6 *	1
206	Mercury	V 5 **	1
207	Green Gully	IV 3 ***	503
	NUMBER THREE GULLY BUTTRESS
209	Venus	V 5 *
210	Aphrodite	IV 4 **	8
211	Tramp	IV 4 *	1
212	Diana	V 5 **	10
213	Vulture	V 5 **
214	Number Three Gully Buttress	III ***	215
215	Quickstep	V 5 *	8
216	Boston Two Step	VI 6 *
217	Two-Step Corner	V 5 **	78
218	Knuckleduster	VIII 9	2
219	Knuckleduster Direct	VIII 9 **	1
220	Curly's Arete	VIII 8 *	1
221	Sioux Wall	VIII 8	12
222	Tomahawk Crack	VIII 9 ***	2
223	Apache	VIII 8 **	3
224	Thompson's Route	IV 4 ***	122
225	Gremlins	VI 6 **	3
226	Gargoyle Wall	VI 6 ***	34
227	Hobgoblin	VI 7 **	2
228	Babylon	VII 8 **	10
229	Collaboration	VI 7 **
230	Snuff Wall	VIII 8	1
231	Sake	VIII 9 **	1
232	Winter Chimney	V 5 **	6
233	El Nino	III 4	2
234	Winter Cascade	IV 5 *	5
235	Number Three Gully	I **	212
236	Number Three Gully (Variation finish)	II	10
	CREAG COIRE NA CISTE
238	To Those Who Wait	IX 9 ***	1
239	The Secret	IX 9 ***	3
240	Catriona	VIII 8
241	Cornucopia	VII 9 **	4
242	Darth Vader	VII 8 ***	23
243	Storm Trooper	VIII 8
244	Anvenging Angel Direct	VIII 8	2
245	South Sea Bubble	VII 6 **
246	South Gully	III *	40
247	Lost The Place	V 5 ***	22
248	Une Journee Ordinaire	V 6 **	1
249	Levitation	VI 6 *	1
250	Central Gully, Creag Coire na Ciste	III 4 **	47
251	Central Gully Right-Hand	IV 4 ***	110
252	Wendigo	IV 4 **	28
253	Place Your Bets	VI 6 **	1
254	North Gully	II	153
255	North Gully - The Left Fork	IV 5 **	4
256	The Gift	III 4	12
257	Four Play	IV 4	1
258	Number Four Gully	I **	354
259	Number Four Gully Buttress	3	1
	SOUTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS
261	1944 Route	S *	7
262	The Minge	VII 8 **	1
263	The Groove Climb	V 6 *	2
264	Sidewinder	HVS 5a **	8
265	Sidewinder	VII 8 **	5
266	Strident Edge	VS 4c **	5
267	Strident Edge (winter)	VI 7 ***	4
268	Devastation	E1 5b **
269	Devastation (Winter)	VII 8 **	3
270	Spartacus	VS 4c
271	Spartacus Winter	VI 7
272	The Slab Climb	S *	1
273	The Slab Climb	VI 7 **	10
274	The Clanger	IV 5 **	8
275	Pinnacle Arete	IV 4 *	3
276	Pinnacle Arete	VD **	8
277	Joyful Chimneys	IV 4	3
278	Central Gully, South Trident Buttress	III *	16
279	Nasturtium	IV 4 *	4
280	Jubilation	IV 4 *	9
	JUBILEE BUTTRESS
282	Jubilee Climb	VD
283	Jubilee Climb	II	5
284	Mega Reve	VI 6 *
	CENTRAL TRIDENT BUTTRESS
286	Steam	HVS 5a *	1
287	Feeding Frenzy	VI 7 *
288	Mega Route X	V 6 ***	2
289	Heidbanger	E1 5b *	3
290	Metamorphosis	E2 5b **
	NORTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS
292	Neptune Gully	III	17
293	North Trident Buttress	III **	20
294	Moonlight Gully	II *	40
	MOONLIGHT GULLY BUTTRESS
296	Fifties Revival	IV 6	1
297	Diagonal Route	III	5
298	The Big Cheese	VIII 8 **	3
299	Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully Buttress	IV 4 **	9
300	Phosphorescent Grooves	III 4 *	2
301	Take Off	IV 5	1
302	Number Five Gully	I **	121
	NUMBER FIVE GULLY BUTTRESS
304	Free Range	VII 7 ***	2
305	Ledge Route	II ***	667
306	Ledge Route	2 ***	221
	CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS
	CAIRN DEARG CASCADE
309	Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC Icefall	V 5 ***	32
310	Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC Icefall	IV 4 *	49
	CARN DEARG BUTTRESS
312	Curtain Rail	IV 4 *	8
313	The Curtain	IV 5 ***	115
314	Route I	VI 6 ***	13
315	Route I	S **	15
316	Route I Direct Start	VI 6 *	8
317	Route II Direct	VI 6 ***	4
318	Route ll Direct	S ***	14
319	The Shadow	VS 4c **	6
320	The Bullroar	HVS 5a ***	23
321	Torro	E2 5b ***	39
322	Centurion	HVS 5a ***	173
323	King Kong	E2 5c ***	14
324	The Bat	E2 5b ***	30
325	The Wicked	E6 6b *
326	Sassenach	E1 5b **	2
327	The Banana Groove	E4 6a ***	4
328	Agrippa	E5 6b ***	2
329	Caligula	E3 5c **	2
330	Titan's Wall	E3 5c ***	17
331	Shield Direct	VII 7 ***
332	Shield Direct	HVS 5a **	2
333	Gemini	VI 6 ***	6
334	Waterfall Gully	IV 4 *	49
335	Waterfall Gully, True Finish	VI 6 **
	NORTH WALL OF CARN DEARG
	COUSIN'S BUTTRESS
338	Harrison's Climb Direct	IV 4 ***	10
	RAEBURN'S BUTTRESS
340	Boomer's Requiem	V 5 ***	29
341	Raeburn's Buttress	IV 5 **	13
	CASTLE CORRIE
343	Compression Crack	V 5 **	35
344	South Castle Gully	II *	30
345	Plum Duff	V 5 **	1
346	The Castle	III *	20
347	North Castle Gully	II *	40
	CASTLE RIDGE
349	Castle Ridge	III **	187
350	Castle Ridge	M **	111
	CASTLE RIDGE, NORTH FACE
352	The Serpent	II *	2
353	Lobby Dancer	VI 6 ***
354	Nordwand	IV 3 **	12
	GLEN NEVIS (SW) FLANK
356	Five Finger Gully	IV 4 **	1
357	Surgeon's Rib	1	1
358	Surgeon's Gully	V 5 **
359	Polldubh Gully	IV 5 **
360	Steal Waterfall	III	1
361	Sron Na Lairig Ridge	2 **	2
362	Thea †	III *	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed "North Face Car Park". An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your R. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain...

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TonyM

USER FEEDBACK

The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430