Ben Nevis

Climbs 351 – Rocktype Andesite – Altitude 1344m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

Access notes
For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed "North Face Car Park". An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your R. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain...

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Ben Nevis (2002), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Ben Nevis (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Ben Nevis summitsummit 940
2Carn Deargsummit 37
3Carn Dearg SWsummit 10
4Meall an t-Suidhesummit 7
 COIRE LEIS  
 LITTLE BRENVA FACE  
7Carn Mor Dearg Arete1 182
8Carn Mor Dearg AreteI **300
9Final ButtressIII 4 8
10Bob RunII **27
11MoonwalkIV 3 **18
12CrestaIII 3 **29
13Cresta DirectIV 4 *8
14SlalomIII *6
15Super GVI 6 **2
16Wall of the WindsVI 5  
17Frost BiteIV 4 3
18IsandhlwanaV 5 **1
19Route MajorIV 4 ***6
20Right MajorIV 6 *1
21The Eastern ClimbS *1
 NORTH EAST BUTTRESS  
23North East ButtressVD ***159
24North East ButtressIV 4 ***298
25The Lime Green GaiterV 6 *1
26Newbigging's 80 Minute RouteIV 4 1
27Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand VariationV 6  
28Orient ExpressE2 5c  
29Orient ExpressIX 8 **1
30Steam TrainHVS 5a  
31Steam TrainVI 7 *2
32Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right VariationVD *2
33Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right VariationIV 4 4
 OBSERVATORY GULLY  
 FIRST PLATFORM  
36Raeburns AreteS **81
37Raeburn's AreteV 6 **4
38Green Hollow RouteIV 4 *1
39Bayonet RouteHS **8
40Bayonet RouteIV 4 1
41Ruddy RocksVD 3
42Ruddy RocksIV 4  
43Slingsby's ChimneyII *69
 MINUS THREE BUTTRESS  
45Slab and Rib VariationIV 5 *3
46Right-Hand Wall RouteIV 5 *3
47Right-Hand Wall Route Direct FinishV 4 2
48WagroochimsiaIV 5 1
49Platform RibIV 4 **7
50Minus Three GullyIV 5 ***41
 MINUS TWO BUTTRESS  
52Left-hand RouteVS 4b *11
53Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)VI 6 **4
54Central RouteVI 7 1
55Central RouteHVS 5a * 
56Right-Hand RouteVI 6 *2
57Long DivisionE1 5b *2
58Minus Two ButtressV 5 *1
59Minus Two GullyV 6 ***65
 MINUS ONE BUTTRESS  
61Minus One DirectE1 5b ***54
62Minus One DirectVIII 8 *** 
63Minus One ButtressVII 6 ***4
64Minus One GullyVI 6 ***54
65Minus One Gully Direct FinishV 5 **1
 ORION FACE  
67Dark StarVI 5 *** 
68AstronomyVI 5 ***1
69Astronomy Direct FinishVI 5 **1
70AstronomyVS *1
71Smith-Holt RouteV 5 **5
72The Long ClimbVS ***74
73The Long Climb FinishVII 6 ***7
74Orion Face DirectV 5 ***197
75Orion Direct - Tower VariationsVI 5 ***8
76Astral HighwayVI 5 **29
77Space WalkVII 6 *2
78Orion DirectissimaVI 5 **8
79Slav RouteVI 5 ***33
80Orion GroovesVI 5 *1
81Zero GullyV 4 ***180
 OBSERVATORY RIDGE  
83Observatory Ridge (Summer)VD ***192
84Observatory RidgeV 4 ***115
 OBSERVATORY RIDGE WEST FACE  
86AbacusIV 4 **1
87Vade MecumV 5 ***5
88Hadrian's Wall DirectV 5 ***181
89SickleV 5 ***42
90Galactic HitchhikerVI 5 ***6
91PointlessVII 6 ***1
92Point Five GullyV 5 ***511
 OBSERVATORY BUTTRESS  
94Point BlankVII 6 1
95Left Edge RouteV 5 ***7
96Appointment with FearVII 6 * 
97Rubicon WallS *1
98Rubicon WallVI 5 ***13
99Observatory Buttress (Summer)VD *5
100Observatory ButtressV 4 ***64
101Observatory Buttress Direct FinishV 5 **8
102North-West FaceV 5 *1
 INDICATOR WALL  
104Good Friday ClimbIII ***191
105Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish)III 4 26
106Indicator WallV 4 ***100
107Indicator Right-HandV 5 ***34
108Riders on the StormVI 5 ***4
109Ship of FoolsVIII 7 1
110Arctic TernVII 5 1
111AlbatrossVI 5 ***10
112The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner DirectVII 7 ***2
113Psychedelic WallVI 5 ***29
114Satanic VersesVI 5 ***5
115Shot in the DarkV 5 **4
116CaledoniaV 5 **2
117Shot in the FootV 4 4
118Gardyloo GullyII *199
 GARDYLOO BUTTRESS  
120Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)VI 5 1
121Kellett's RouteVI 6 ***7
122Smith's RouteV 5 ***188
123The Great GlenVI 5 *3
124Right EdgeIV 4 1
125Tower GullyI 149
126Upper Tower Cascade LHIV 5 9
127Upper Tower Cascade RHIII 5
 TOWER RIDGE AREA  
 TOWER RIDGE, EAST FLANK  
130Tower ScoopIII **273
131Tower CleftIII *4
132Faith HealerVIII 7 *1
133Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start)V 6 *1
134Goodeve's RouteIII 3
135The Brass MonkeyVII 8 ***2
136The Great ChimneyIV 5 **9
137Alaska HighwayIV 1
 TOWER RIDGE  
139Tower RidgeD ***923
140Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's RouteVD 1
141Great Tower Variation: Bell's RouteVD 1
142Tower RidgeIV 3 ***855
 DOUGLAS BOULDER  
144Douglas Gap East GullyI 87
145East RidgeIV 5 3
146Direct RouteVD **114
147Direct RouteIV 4 *10
148Direct Route IIS *12
149Down to the WireV 6 1
150North-West Face RouteV 5 5
151Militant ChimneyVI 6 3
152GutlessIV 5 14
153RutlessVII 8 **1
154CutlassVI 7 *39
155CutlassVS 4b *3
156JacknifeV 6 18
157South-West RidgeIV 5 **134
158Douglas Gap West GullyI *83
 SECONDARY TOWER RIDGE  
160Fawlty TowersIII *79
1611934 RouteII/III **26
162Vagabond's RibS 1
163Vanishing GullyV 5 ***194
164Fatboy SlimVI 6 *3
165Italian ClimbIII *30
166Italian Right-HandIV 4 **85
167The ChuteV 4 *2
 GARADH NA CISTE  
169Garadh GullyII *190
170Garadh ButtressII *3
171TheaIII *2
172Crying Out LoudIV 5 *2
173Broad GullyII 10
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS OF THE TOWER  
175StringfellowVI 6 ***16
176Smooth OperatorVI 7 1
177Pinnacle Buttress DirectV 5 **4
178Glovers ChimneyIII 4 ***244
 GOODEVE'S BUTTRESS  
180The GutterIV 4 ***5
181The White LineIII **70
 RAEBURN'S WALL  
183Raeburn's Easy RouteII ***115
184The Blue HorizonIV 4 1
185The CascadeIV 5 **57
186Expert's ChoiceIII **19
187Raeburn's not so EasyIII 4 14
 COIRE NA CISTE  
 NUMBER TWO GULLY BUTTRESS  
190Five Finger DiscountIV 4 10
191Burrito's GrooveIV 5 **7
192JP Is BackIV 4 *4
193BD was HereIII *2
194Number Two Gully ButtressIII ***83
195Number Two GullyII ***355
 COMB GULLY BUTTRESS  
197Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - LeftV 6  
198Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - RightIV 4  
199Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - RightmostIV 4 1
200Comb Gully ButtressIV 4 **42
201Comb Gully Buttress - Annick ExitIV 5 2
202Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle FinishV 5 *2
203Clough's ChimneyVI 6 *3
204Roaring FortiesV 5 **2
205Big Bad BenVII 7  
206Comb GullyIV 4 ***418
 THE COMB  
208Hesperides LedgeIII **2
209The Good GrooveVII 7 ** 
210Quisling WallVI 6 * 
211Lost SoulsVI 6 2
212Tower Face of the CombVI 6 ***28
213AnubisXI 11 *** 
214AnubisE8 6c *** 
215Don't Die of IgnoranceXI 11 3
216Pigott's RouteV 6 *1
217MercuryV 5 **3
218Green GullyIV 3 ***603
 NUMBER THREE GULLY BUTTRESS  
220VenusV 5 * 
221AphroditeIV 4 **8
222TrampIV 4 *1
223DianaV 5 **13
224VultureV 5 ** 
225Number Three Gully ButtressIII ***249
226QuickstepV 5 *9
227Boston Two StepVI 6 * 
228Two-Step CornerV 5 **92
229KnuckledusterVIII 9 2
230KnuckledusterHVS 5a ** 
231Knuckleduster DirectVIII 9 **1
232Curly's AreteVIII 8 *1
233Sioux WallVIII 8 17
234Sioux WallHVS 5a **1
235Tomahawk CrackVIII 9 ***3
236ApacheVIII 8 **4
237Thompson's RouteIV 4 ***150
238GremlinsVI 6 **4
239Gargoyle WallVI 6 ***43
240HobgoblinVI 7 **2
241BabylonVII 8 **16
242CollaborationVI 7 ** 
243Snuff WallVIII 8 1
244SakeVIII 9 **1
245Winter ChimneyV 5 **9
246El NinoIII 4 2
247Winter CascadeIV 5 *7
248Number Three GullyI **243
249Number Three Gully (Variation finish)II 11
 CREAG COIRE NA CISTE  
251To Those Who WaitIX 9 ***1
252The SecretIX 9 ***9
253CatrionaVIII 8  
254CornucopiaVII 9 **6
255Darth VaderVII 8 ***29
256Han SoloVIII 7 **1
257Storm TrooperVIII 8  
258Anvenging Angel DirectVIII 8 3
259South Sea BubbleVII 6 ** 
260South GullyIII *43
261Lost The PlaceV 5 ***26
262Une Journee OrdinaireV 6 **4
263LevitationVI 6 *1
264Central Gully, Creag Coire na CisteIII 4 **52
265Central Gully Right-HandIV 4 ***122
266WendigoIV 4 **28
267Place Your BetsVI 6 **1
268North GullyII 163
269North Gully - The Left ForkIV 5 **4
270The GiftIII 4 13
271Four PlayIV 4 3
272Number Four GullyI **393
273Number Four Gully Buttress3 1
 SOUTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
2751944 RouteS *7
276The MingeVII 8 **1
277The Groove ClimbV 6 *3
278SidewinderHVS 5a **9
279SidewinderVII 8 **9
280Strident EdgeVS 4c **6
281Strident Edge (winter)VI 7 ***7
282DevastationE1 5b ** 
283Devastation (Winter)VII 8 **3
284SpartacusVS 4c  
285Spartacus WinterVI 7  
286The Slab ClimbS *1
287The Slab ClimbVI 7 **13
288The ClangerIV 5 **8
289Pinnacle AreteIV 4 *7
290Pinnacle AreteVD **9
291Joyful ChimneysIV 4 4
292Central Gully, South Trident ButtressIII *17
293NasturtiumIV 4 *4
294JubilationIV 4 *11
 JUBILEE BUTTRESS  
296Jubilee ClimbVD  
297Jubilee ClimbII 9
298Mega ReveVI 6 * 
 CENTRAL TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
300SteamHVS 5a *1
301Feeding FrenzyVI 7 * 
302Mega Route XV 6 ***23
303HeidbangerE1 5b *4
304Heidbanger (Winter)VIII 8 *2
305MetamorphosisE2 5b **1
 NORTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
307Neptune GullyIII 19
308North Trident ButtressIII **22
309Moonlight GullyII *45
 MOONLIGHT GULLY BUTTRESS  
311Fifties RevivalIV 6 1
312Diagonal RouteIII 10
313The Big CheeseVIII 8 **3
314Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully ButtressIV 4 **15
315Phosphorescent GroovesIII 4 *2
316Take OffIV 5 1
317Number Five GullyI **130
 NUMBER FIVE GULLY BUTTRESS  
319Free RangeVII 7 ***3
320Ledge RouteII ***824
321Ledge Route2 ***311
 CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS  
 CAIRN DEARG CASCADE  
324Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC IcefallV 5 ***36
325Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC IcefallIV 4 *55
 CARN DEARG BUTTRESS  
327Curtain RailIV 4 *21
328Mourning SlabVS  
329The BlindVS 4b * 
330The CurtainIV 5 ***245
331Route IVI 6 ***18
332Route IS **15
333Route I Direct StartVI 6 *15
334PMVS 4c * 
335Route II DirectVI 6 ***5
336Route ll DirectS ***19
337DissectionHVS 5a  
338The ShadowVS 4c **6
339The BullroarHVS 5a ***38
340Adrenalin RushE3 6a  
341CowslipE2 5c  
342TorroE2 5b ***63
343Red RagE2 5c ** 
344CenturionHVS 5a ***235
345Centurion (Winter)VIII 8 **6
346King KongE2 5c ***21
347Trajan's ColumnE6 6b *** 
348The BatE2 5b ***53
349The WickedE6 6b * 
350SassenachE1 5b **3
351The Banana GrooveE4 6a ***7
352AgrippaE5 6b ***4
353CaligulaE3 5c **4
354Titan's WallE3 5c ***28
355BoadiceaE4 6a **1
356Shield DirectVII 7 ***3
357Shield DirectHVS 5a **2
358GeminiVI 6 ***31
359The BewildabeastVI 6 ***4
360Waterfall GullyIV 4 *79
361Waterfall Gully, True FinishVI 6 **2
362The TrialE3 5c **2
 NORTH WALL OF CARN DEARG  
 COUSIN'S BUTTRESS  
365Harrison's Climb DirectIV 4 ***33
366CousinadeVII 8 **2
 RAEBURN'S BUTTRESS  
368Boomer's RequiemV 5 ***42
369Raeburn's ButtressIV 5 **18
370The CrackHVS 5a  
371The CrackVIII 8 ***1
372Teufel GroovesIX 9 **1
373The ShroudVI 6 **11
 CASTLE CORRIE  
375Compression CrackV 5 **41
376South Castle GullyII *37
377Plum DuffV 5 **1
378The CastleIII *20
379The Castle DirectIV 4 1
380North Castle GullyII *43
 CASTLE RIDGE  
382Castle RidgeIII **266
383Castle RidgeM **170
 CASTLE RIDGE, NORTH FACE  
385The SerpentII *3
386The MoatII **2
387Lobby DancerVI 6 *** 
388NordwandIV 3 **21
389Nordwand directIV 5 6
 GLEN NEVIS (SW) FLANK  
391Five Finger GullyIV 4 **1
392Surgeon's Rib1 1
393Surgeon's GullyV 5 ** 
394Polldubh GullyIV 5 ** 
395Steal WaterfallIII 3
396Sron Na Lairig Ridge2 **2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TonyM

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nath93 - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04