Ben Nevis

Climbs 342 – Rocktype Andesite – Altitude 1344m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

Access notes
For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed "North Face Car Park". An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your R. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain...

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Ben Nevis (2002), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Ben Nevis (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Ben Nevis summitsummit 913
2Carn Deargsummit 36
3Carn Dearg SWsummit 9
4Meall an t-Suidhesummit 6
 COIRE LEIS  
 LITTLE BRENVA FACE  
7Carn Mor Dearg Arete1 177
8Carn Mor Dearg AreteI **286
9Final ButtressIII 4 8
10Bob RunII **26
11MoonwalkIV 3 **18
12CrestaIII 3 **28
13Cresta DirectIV 4 *8
14SlalomIII *6
15Super GVI 6 **2
16Wall of the WindsVI 5  
17Frost BiteIV 4 2
18IsandhlwanaV 5 **1
19Route MajorIV 4 ***6
20Right MajorIV 6 *1
21The Eastern ClimbS *1
 NORTH EAST BUTTRESS  
23North East ButtressVD ***158
24North East ButtressIV 4 ***295
25The Lime Green GaiterV 6 *1
26Newbigging's 80 Minute RouteIV 4 1
27Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand VariationV 6  
28Orient ExpressE2 5c  
29Orient ExpressIX 8 **1
30Steam TrainHVS 5a  
31Steam TrainVI 7 *2
32Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right VariationVD *1
33Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right VariationIV 4 4
 OBSERVATORY GULLY  
 FIRST PLATFORM  
36Raeburns AreteS **80
37Raeburn's AreteV 6 **4
38Green Hollow RouteIV 4 *1
39Bayonet RouteHS **8
40Bayonet RouteIV 4 1
41Ruddy RocksVD 3
42Ruddy RocksIV 4  
43Slingsby's ChimneyII *65
 MINUS THREE BUTTRESS  
45Slab and Rib VariationIV 5 *3
46Right-Hand Wall RouteIV 5 *3
47Right-Hand Wall Route Direct FinishV 4 2
48WagroochimsiaIV 5 1
49Platform RibIV 4 **7
50Minus Three GullyIV 5 ***40
 MINUS TWO BUTTRESS  
52Left-hand RouteVS 4b *11
53Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)VI 6 **4
54Central RouteVI 7 1
55Central RouteHVS 5a * 
56Right-Hand RouteVI 6 *2
57Long DivisionE1 5b *2
58Minus Two ButtressV 5 *1
59Minus Two GullyV 6 ***59
 MINUS ONE BUTTRESS  
61Minus One DirectE1 5b ***54
62Minus One DirectVIII 8 *** 
63Minus One ButtressVII 6 ***4
64Minus One GullyVI 6 ***51
65Minus One Gully Direct FinishV 5 **1
 ORION FACE  
67Dark StarVI 5 *** 
68AstronomyVI 5 ***1
69Astronomy Direct FinishVI 5 **1
70AstronomyVS *1
71Smith-Holt RouteV 5 **5
72The Long ClimbVS ***74
73The Long Climb FinishVII 6 ***6
74Orion Face DirectV 5 ***192
75Orion Direct - Tower VariationsVI 5 ***8
76Astral HighwayVI 5 **29
77Space WalkVII 6 *2
78Orion DirectissimaVI 5 **8
79Slav RouteVI 5 ***33
80Orion GroovesVI 5 *1
81Zero GullyV 4 ***172
 OBSERVATORY RIDGE  
83Observatory Ridge (Summer)VD ***190
84Observatory RidgeV 4 ***111
 OBSERVATORY RIDGE WEST FACE  
86AbacusIV 4 **1
87Vade MecumV 5 ***4
88Hadrian's Wall DirectV 5 ***157
89SickleV 5 ***40
90Galactic HitchhikerVI 5 ***6
91PointlessVII 6 ***1
92Point Five GullyV 5 ***477
 OBSERVATORY BUTTRESS  
94Point BlankVII 6 1
95Left Edge RouteV 5 ***7
96Appointment with FearVII 6 * 
97Rubicon WallS *1
98Rubicon WallVI 5 ***12
99Observatory Buttress (Summer)VD *5
100Observatory ButtressV 4 ***63
101Observatory Buttress Direct FinishV 5 **8
102North-West FaceV 5 *1
 INDICATOR WALL  
104Good Friday ClimbIII ***190
105Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish)III 4 25
106Indicator WallV 4 ***97
107Indicator Right-HandV 5 ***33
108Riders on the StormVI 5 ***4
109Ship of FoolsVIII 7 1
110Arctic TernVII 5 1
111AlbatrossVI 5 ***10
112The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner DirectVII 7 ***2
113Psychedelic WallVI 5 ***28
114Satanic VersesVI 5 ***5
115Shot in the DarkV 5 **4
116CaledoniaV 5 **2
117Shot in the FootV 4 4
118Gardyloo GullyII *197
 GARDYLOO BUTTRESS  
120Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)VI 5 1
121Kellett's RouteVI 6 ***7
122Smith's RouteV 5 ***178
123The Great GlenVI 5 *3
124Right EdgeIV 4 1
125Tower GullyI 148
126Upper Tower Cascade LHIV 5 9
127Upper Tower Cascade RHIII 5
 TOWER RIDGE AREA  
 TOWER RIDGE, EAST FLANK  
130Tower ScoopIII **264
131Tower CleftIII *4
132Faith HealerVIII 7 *1
133Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start)V 6 *1
134Goodeve's RouteIII 3
135The Brass MonkeyVII 8 ***2
136The Great ChimneyIV 5 **8
137Alaska HighwayIV 1
 TOWER RIDGE  
139Tower RidgeD ***918
140Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's RouteVD 1
141Great Tower Variation: Bell's RouteVD 1
142Tower RidgeIV 3 ***833
 DOUGLAS BOULDER  
144Douglas Gap East GullyI 82
145East RidgeIV 5 3
146Direct RouteVD **114
147Direct RouteIV 4 *10
148Direct Route IIS *12
149Down to the WireV 6 1
150North-West Face RouteV 5 5
151Militant ChimneyVI 6 3
152GutlessIV 5 13
153CutlassVI 7 *36
154CutlassVS 4b *3
155JacknifeV 6 18
156South-West RidgeIV 5 **122
157Douglas Gap West GullyI *72
 SECONDARY TOWER RIDGE  
159Fawlty TowersIII *69
1601934 RouteII/III **23
161Vagabond's RibS 1
162Vanishing GullyV 5 ***171
163Fatboy SlimVI 6 *3
164Italian ClimbIII *30
165Italian Right-HandIV 4 **67
166The ChuteV 4 * 
 GARADH NA CISTE  
168Garadh GullyII *180
169Garadh ButtressII *3
170Crying Out LoudIV 5 *2
171Broad GullyII 10
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS OF THE TOWER  
173StringfellowVI 6 ***16
174Smooth OperatorVI 7 1
175Pinnacle Buttress DirectV 5 **3
176Glovers ChimneyIII 4 ***236
 GOODEVE'S BUTTRESS  
178The GutterIV 4 ***5
179The White LineIII **64
 RAEBURN'S WALL  
181Raeburn's Easy RouteII ***112
182The Blue HorizonIV 4 1
183The CascadeIV 5 **57
184Expert's ChoiceIII **19
185Raeburn's not so EasyIII 4 14
 COIRE NA CISTE  
 NUMBER TWO GULLY BUTTRESS  
188Five Finger DiscountIV 4 10
189Burrito's GrooveIV 5 **7
190JP Is BackIV 4 *4
191BD was HereIII *2
192Number Two Gully ButtressIII ***83
193Number Two GullyII ***348
 COMB GULLY BUTTRESS  
195Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - LeftV 6  
196Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - RightIV 4  
197Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - RightmostIV 4 1
198Comb Gully ButtressIV 4 **40
199Comb Gully Buttress - Annick ExitIV 5 2
200Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle FinishV 5 *2
201Clough's ChimneyVI 6 *3
202Roaring FortiesV 5 **2
203Big Bad BenVII 7  
204Comb GullyIV 4 ***411
 THE COMB  
206Hesperides LedgeIII **2
207The Good GrooveVII 7 ** 
208Quisling WallVI 6 * 
209Lost SoulsVI 6 2
210Tower Face of the CombVI 6 ***26
211AnubisXI 11 *** 
212AnubisE8 6c *** 
213Don't Die of IgnoranceXI 11 3
214Pigott's RouteV 6 *1
215MercuryV 5 **3
216Green GullyIV 3 ***574
 NUMBER THREE GULLY BUTTRESS  
218VenusV 5 * 
219AphroditeIV 4 **8
220TrampIV 4 *1
221DianaV 5 **13
222VultureV 5 ** 
223Number Three Gully ButtressIII ***245
224QuickstepV 5 *9
225Boston Two StepVI 6 * 
226Two-Step CornerV 5 **87
227KnuckledusterVIII 9 2
228KnuckledusterHVS 5a ** 
229Knuckleduster DirectVIII 9 **1
230Curly's AreteVIII 8 *1
231Sioux WallVIII 8 16
232Sioux WallHVS 5a **1
233Tomahawk CrackVIII 9 ***3
234ApacheVIII 8 **4
235Thompson's RouteIV 4 ***144
236GremlinsVI 6 **4
237Gargoyle WallVI 6 ***41
238HobgoblinVI 7 **2
239BabylonVII 8 **12
240CollaborationVI 7 ** 
241Snuff WallVIII 8 1
242SakeVIII 9 **1
243Winter ChimneyV 5 **6
244El NinoIII 4 2
245Winter CascadeIV 5 *7
246Number Three GullyI **240
247Number Three Gully (Variation finish)II 11
 CREAG COIRE NA CISTE  
249To Those Who WaitIX 9 ***1
250The SecretIX 9 ***7
251CatrionaVIII 8  
252CornucopiaVII 9 **6
253Darth VaderVII 8 ***28
254Storm TrooperVIII 8  
255Anvenging Angel DirectVIII 8 3
256South Sea BubbleVII 6 ** 
257South GullyIII *43
258Lost The PlaceV 5 ***26
259Une Journee OrdinaireV 6 **3
260LevitationVI 6 *1
261Central Gully, Creag Coire na CisteIII 4 **52
262Central Gully Right-HandIV 4 ***120
263WendigoIV 4 **28
264Place Your BetsVI 6 **1
265North GullyII 162
266North Gully - The Left ForkIV 5 **4
267The GiftIII 4 13
268Four PlayIV 4 3
269Number Four GullyI **379
270Number Four Gully Buttress3 1
 SOUTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
2721944 RouteS *7
273The MingeVII 8 **1
274The Groove ClimbV 6 *3
275SidewinderHVS 5a **9
276SidewinderVII 8 **9
277Strident EdgeVS 4c **6
278Strident Edge (winter)VI 7 ***7
279DevastationE1 5b ** 
280Devastation (Winter)VII 8 **3
281SpartacusVS 4c  
282Spartacus WinterVI 7  
283The Slab ClimbS *1
284The Slab ClimbVI 7 **12
285The ClangerIV 5 **8
286Pinnacle AreteIV 4 *7
287Pinnacle AreteVD **9
288Joyful ChimneysIV 4 4
289Central Gully, South Trident ButtressIII *17
290NasturtiumIV 4 *4
291JubilationIV 4 *9
 JUBILEE BUTTRESS  
293Jubilee ClimbVD  
294Jubilee ClimbII 9
295Mega ReveVI 6 * 
 CENTRAL TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
297SteamHVS 5a *1
298Feeding FrenzyVI 7 * 
299Mega Route XV 6 ***4
300HeidbangerE1 5b *4
301MetamorphosisE2 5b ** 
 NORTH TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
303Neptune GullyIII 18
304North Trident ButtressIII **21
305Moonlight GullyII *43
 MOONLIGHT GULLY BUTTRESS  
307Fifties RevivalIV 6 1
308Diagonal RouteIII 7
309The Big CheeseVIII 8 **3
310Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully ButtressIV 4 **12
311Phosphorescent GroovesIII 4 *2
312Take OffIV 5 1
313Number Five GullyI **130
 NUMBER FIVE GULLY BUTTRESS  
315Free RangeVII 7 ***3
316Ledge RouteII ***795
317Ledge Route2 ***306
 CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS  
 CAIRN DEARG CASCADE  
320Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC IcefallV 5 ***36
321Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC IcefallIV 4 *54
 CARN DEARG BUTTRESS  
323Curtain RailIV 4 *20
324Mourning SlabVS  
325The BlindVS 4b * 
326The CurtainIV 5 ***175
327Route IVI 6 ***17
328Route IS **15
329Route I Direct StartVI 6 *14
330PMVS 4c * 
331Route II DirectVI 6 ***5
332Route ll DirectS ***19
333DissectionHVS 5a  
334The ShadowVS 4c **6
335The BullroarHVS 5a ***37
336Adrenalin RushE3 6a  
337CowslipE2 5c  
338TorroE2 5b ***63
339Red RagE2 5c ** 
340CenturionHVS 5a ***235
341Centurion (Winter)VIII 8 **5
342King KongE2 5c ***21
343Trajan's ColumnE6 6b *** 
344The BatE2 5b ***53
345The WickedE6 6b * 
346SassenachE1 5b **3
347The Banana GrooveE4 6a ***7
348AgrippaE5 6b ***4
349CaligulaE3 5c **4
350Titan's WallE3 5c ***28
351BoadiceaE4 6a **1
352Shield DirectVII 7 ***1
353Shield DirectHVS 5a **2
354GeminiVI 6 ***11
355Waterfall GullyIV 4 *69
356Waterfall Gully, True FinishVI 6 ** 
357The TrialE3 5c **2
 NORTH WALL OF CARN DEARG  
 COUSIN'S BUTTRESS  
360Harrison's Climb DirectIV 4 ***17
 RAEBURN'S BUTTRESS  
362Boomer's RequiemV 5 ***31
363Raeburn's ButtressIV 5 **16
364The CrackHVS 5a  
 CASTLE CORRIE  
366Compression CrackV 5 **38
367South Castle GullyII *35
368Plum DuffV 5 **1
369The CastleIII *20
370North Castle GullyII *42
 CASTLE RIDGE  
372Castle RidgeIII **250
373Castle RidgeM **168
 CASTLE RIDGE, NORTH FACE  
375The SerpentII *3
376The MoatII **1
377Lobby DancerVI 6 *** 
378NordwandIV 3 **12
 GLEN NEVIS (SW) FLANK  
380Five Finger GullyIV 4 **1
381Surgeon's Rib1 1
382Surgeon's GullyV 5 ** 
383Polldubh GullyIV 5 ** 
384Steal WaterfallIII 3
385Sron Na Lairig Ridge2 **2
386Thea III *2
387RutlessVII 8 **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TonyM

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nath93 - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 18/Aug/2012
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