Climbs 82 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
The impressive ridge of rock which overlooks Calpe has a few routes dotted around although the best are centred on an impressive arete and the walls on either side of it. The rock is excellent and the views over Calpe are stunning with the Penon making a magnificent backdrop for photographs of the superb arete of Tai Chi. The other major classic is the Super Tufa Groove which is one of the best 6b+ in the area. The rock is quite sharp and a day here tends to take its toll on your finger tips. Some of the harder routes have improved or fully created holds which spoil the experience a bit, but mostly the moves and climbing are excellent. Hopefully one day more routes will be climbed up on this ridge since the potential of the much larger right hand end is only just being touched.

The crag faces south east and catches plenty of sun although in winter the sun goes off the crag in the early afternoon. It is high and exposed to any wind.


In the last few years many problems have been added to the boulders below the crag. Photos in the crag photos section.

Potential for much more in the future.

Approach notes
The crag should be approached from Calpe following signs to Monte Olta/Zona de acampada. Park by the free camping site. Head up the hill to a track, turn left and follow this past a big zig zag and then a chain and onto a large water tank on the right. A rough track leads behind this, up the steep hillside to the crags.

Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014), Spain : Costa Blanca (2013),
Out of print: Costa Blanca (2005), Costa Blanca. Mallorca, El Chorro (2001), Costa Blanca. Mallorca, El Chorro (1998), Costa Blanca. Mallorca, El Chorro (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Aloe3 1
3Agave3 2
4Malve3+ 8
5Romero5a 17
6Lavandel4c 10
7Rosa4a 7
8Tomillo4a 11
9Voila4c 11
10Petunia4a 8
11Fresia4c 10
12Kulore4a *19
14Gisela5a *17
15Learning to Fly6a *12
16Si Maria6b *2
17Central Groove6a *7
18Living on the Edge6c 1
22Adler5a 2
24Rudi5a 9
25Hanne4a 3
26Taube4c 5
27Mowe5a 1
28Elster4a *11
29Robe4c *8
30Dohle5a 3
33Kauz4a 2
34Uhu4a 2
35Eule4a 3
36Viva Calpe5a **3
38Lost in Flight7c **1
39Si Maria7c **5
40Tufa-Groove6b+ ***124
41Lyenga7a ***12
42Tao6a *20
43Wings of Freedom7a+ *7
44Ki6c **20
45Mulan7a+ *4
46Tai chi6b+ ***201
47Spanish Eyes6b+ **67
48Fantasía encanto7b+  
50Hillside Avenue6c *5
51Halt Mich6c+ 1
52Hola Olta6c+ *14
53Vamos6a **109
54Best of '955a **178
55Du Darfst5a **198
56Turrón5a **72
57Das Buch der 5 Ringe5c *53
58Touch Me Softly5a *88
59Christmas Dreams5c *122
60Breakthrough5a *57
62Panamericana4a 2
64Nido de Condores4a 1
67Before I Grow Old6c  
68Don't Remember6c  
69Arista con vistas a Ibiza6c  
70Idea obsesiva6c  
72Canny Problemf6A  
73Flump Factoryf5  
77Si's sit startf5+  
78Pocket Problemf4  
82Rattle & Humf4  
83The Flyf4  
84The Joshua Treef5+  
86The Sweetest Thingf5+  
88Atrotinat 6b *1
89Boulder boros6c+ **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Many of the new routes added to the logbook can be found by finding their names painted on the wall below. A large amount of them are multi pitch and grades given are the hardest of these routes.
Matt Smith - 13/Nov/14
The easy climbs at Olta south are generally poor but are dodgy due to single point lower offs. The majority can be backed up with solid threads and mallions, very strange due to good bolts being used on the routes.
Zoomer - 09/Nov/13