Climbs 82
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SE

The classic shot of Tai Chi at Olta on the Costa Blanca © Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor

Crag features

The impressive ridge of rock which overlooks Calp has a few routes dotted around although the best are centred on an impressive arete and the walls on either side of it. The rock is excellent and the views over Calp are stunning with the Peñón making a great backdrop for photographs of the superb arête of Tai Chi. The other major classic is the Super Tufa Groove which is one of the best 6b+ routes in the area.

The rock is quite sharp and a day here tends to take its toll on your finger tips. Some of the harder routes have improved or fully-created holds which spoil the experience a bit, but mostly the moves and climbing are excellent. Hopefully one day more routes will be climbed up on this ridge since the potential of the much larger right-hand end hasn't been touched yet, though the fact that it is in the shade most of the day is probably the main reason.

The crag faces south east and catches plenty of sun although in winter the sun goes off the crag in the early afternoon. It is high and exposed to any wind.

In the last few years many problems have been added to the boulders below the crag. Photos in the crag photos section.
Potential for much more in the future.

Approach notes

The crag is approached from the N332 above Calp. First you need to get onto the road to the 'Estacion F.C.' which leaves the N332 from the main Calp junction. This is awkward if you are approaching from the south; either turn off into Calp and go around the first roundabout to come back under the N332, or over-shoot the junction and turn around so that you are coming south on the N332. Once established drive past the station across the tracks, following the brown signs steadily uphill to 'Monte Olta' and 'Zona de acampada' and park by the (free) camping site. Head up the hill to a track, turn left and follow this past a big zig-zag, and then a chain and on to a large water tank on the right. A rough track leads behind this, up the steep hillside towards the crag. At a flat area is a painted boulder pointing to routes left and right. The main crag is on the right, another steep five minutes up the scree, 30 mins from the car.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Many of the new routes added to the logbook can be found by finding their names painted on the wall below. A large amount of them are multi pitch and grades given are the hardest of these routes.
Matt Smith - 13/Nov/14
The easy climbs at Olta south are generally poor but are dodgy due to single point lower offs. The majority can be backed up with solid threads and mallions, very strange due to good bolts being used on the routes.
Zoomer - 09/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Olta South 
2Aloe3 1
3Agave3 2
4Malve3+ 8
5Romero5a 17
6Lavandel4c 10
7Rosa4a 7
8Tomillo4a 11
9Voila4c 11
10Petunia4a 8
11Fresia4c 10
12Gisela5a *19
13Kulore4a *20
14Adler5a 2
16Rudi5a 9
17Learning to Fly6a *12
18Si Maria6b *2
19Central Groove6a *7
20Living on the Edge6c 1
4a 3
26Taube4c 6
5a 1
28Elster4a *11
29Robe4c *8
30Dohle5a 4
4a 2
34Uhu4a 2
4a 3
36Viva Calpe5a **3
 Olta Main 
38Lost in Flight7c **1
39Si Maria7c **5
40Tufa-Groove6b+ ***135
41Lyenga7a ***13
42Tao6a *20
43Wings of Freedom7a+ *7
44Ki6c **21
45Mulan7a+ *4
46Tai chi6b+ ***226
47Spanish Eyes6b+ **71
48Fantasía encanto7b+  
50Hillside Avenue6c *6
51Halt Mich6c+ 1
52Hola Olta6c+ *14
53Vamos6a **116
54Best of '955a **185
55Du Darfst5a **208
56Turrón5a **76
57Das Buch der 5 Ringe5c *56
58Touch Me Softly5a *92
59Christmas Dreams5c *129
60Breakthrough5a *60
 Olta Pinnacle 
62Panamericana4a 2
64Nido de Condores4a 1
 Olta Right 
67Before I Grow Old
68Don't Remember
69Arista con vistas a Ibiza
70Idea obsesiva
 Ghecko Boulder 
72Canny Problemf6A  
73Flump Factoryf5  
77Si's sit startf5+  
78Pocket Problemf4  
 U2 Boulder 
82Rattle & Humf4  
83The Flyf4  
84The Joshua Treef5+  
86The Sweetest Thingf5+  
 Unknown Area 
88Atrotinat 6b *1
89Boulder boros6c+ **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith