Fair Head

Climbs 403 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 111m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
The massive dolerite sill of Fair Head is the greatest single expanse of climbable rock in Britain and Ireland. Approaching 100m high for much of its length, it forms an impressive bulwark above a jungle of man-eating boulders. At either end the rock tapers off into smaller cliffs, and the western end in particular has a friendlier sunnier aspect than the towering gothic walls in the centre.

A fine setting with views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E8. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Access notes
There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for.

Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park.

The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Guidebooks
Fairhead (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE SMALL CRAG 
2Backwoods JellyrollVS 4c *
3Epileptic GrasshopperE1 5b *
4Droughting AboutHS 4b
5Dirty ElvisVS 4c
6Diggers DelightE1 5b
7PPVS 4b *
8The Gypsies Nicked Me SqueegeeE3 6a
9The StumpHS 4b
10Voluminous OvercoatsVS 4c
11Skin the GoatHVS 5a
12Horse FeathersVS 4b *
13Pat's RouteVS 4c *
14Duck SoupVS 4c *
15One Crack MindHVS 5b *
16The Jungle LineVS 4c *
17Second ChoiceS 4a
18Zoot Horn RolloVS 4c
19Aghaidh Na MuiceVS 4c
20Sexter's RouteVS 4c
21WinkVS 4c
22SantanaVS 4b
23Screeboar the OmniscientE2 5b/c
24Let the Children PlayHVS 5b
25Peas n' CarrotsE2 5c *
26Ton le GaoithVS 4c
27Easy GoS 3c
28Left CrackVD
29Central CrackVD
30Right CrackS
31Seeds of the WeedsE2 5b
32Clean BreakVS 4c
33Plan 9 from Outer SpaceHVS 5b *
34ThunderchildE3 6b *
35Run the WorldE4 5c
36Jack in the GreenE1 5a *
37A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a DiamondVS 4c
38Abba ZabbaVS 4b
39Thinking CapVS 5b
40Thinking Cap (direct finish)HVS 5a
41PhoenixVS 4c *
42Living DollE2 5c *
43MorriganE2 5b *
44Snatch of the DayVS 5a *
45FocusVS 4c *
46Focus (alternative start)VS 5b *
47The Wall of Jer'n Co.E5 6a
48JeffreyHVS 5a *
49FenenstronHS
50AstazouVD
51A Scream of Two BatsVS 4c
52ScornflakeHVS 5a *
53Liberty CapE1 6a *
54J L SeagullHS 4b *
55Tentative DecisionsE3 6a
56FoxbatVS 4c
57Fissure FuarVS 4b *
58ChristineHS 4a
59ParadigmVS 5a
60RubberwristHS 4b
61Juniper DodgeE1 5b
62SpinolaS 4a *
63PitchforkS 4a
64Pitchfork (alternative finish)VS 4c *
65BullrushVS 4c *
66The StingHVS 5b *
67MorningS 4a
68Greased FrighteningVD
69Emptying the ElsanS 3c
70Provisional TravestyS 4a
71Rain RaceE2 6a
72PrunesquallorHS 4b
73FlayVS 4c
74HejiraE3 5c *
75FuschiaVS 4b *
76SycamoreVS 4c *
77Hazelnut AreteHVS 5b
78Hometown JamHVS 5b *
79Lir's ScoopVS 4c *
80Terminal EyesE3 5c *
81GlipeVS 4c
 THE MIDDLE CRAG 
83Jug HandsE1 5b *
84Solid BondE1 5b *
85A Fringe of LeavesE3 6a **
86Easy SkankingE1 5c **
87Sugar MagnoliaE1 5b **
 BELOW THE MAIN CRAG 
89Trivial PusuitE1 5c
90Saginaw SongS 4c
91WisebloodE1 5c
92OrangefieldVS 4c
93The Lone GrooverHVS 4c
 BINNAGAPPLE AREA 
95DecemberHVS 5a **
96DuaisE1 5b
97Poor RelationE1 5b **
98Feats Don't Fail Me NowE2 5b
99Raglan RoadE3 6a **
100Raglan Road Top Pitch VariationE5 6a ***
101Binn na gCapallE2 5c *
102CurserE2 5b
103DoldrumE2 5c **
104ClarionVS 4c
105HurricaneE2 5b ***
106Hurricane (Direct Finish)E2 5c ***
107Green CornerHS
108Visual ContactE3 6b **
109Dart Vadar LivesHVS
110Rusty HaloE4 6a ***
111SeremHVS
112Toby JugE1 5b **
113The BrasserE2 5c ***
114SandpiperE2 5c ***
115StriapachHVS 5a *
116Jolly RogerE3 6a ***
117Blade RunnerE3 5c **
118Track of the CatE4 6a ***
119The Dark SideE8 6c ***
120Orange Blossom SpecialE1 5b
121Sreang ScuabE2 5c
122Blood LineE3 6a
123Earnshaw's RouteVS
124KneewreckerHVS 5a
125Learning to FlyE5 6a ***
 GREY MAN'S PATH EAST 
127Night RiderE5 6a ***
128Njold's SagaE1 5b
129Cu UladhHVS 5a
130Soylent GreenE1 5b
131Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)E3 6b
132Bum's RushE2 5c *
133Magennis RouteE2 5c
134The Unforgettable FireE1 5b
135The Sheltering SkyE1 5b
136Blood MeridianE2 5c
137Deadly PursuitE5 6b **
138The Grey ManE4 5c ***
139The RocafellaE7 6c ***
140PacemakerE3 5c
141Idir na RitheVS 4c
142AntagonistE3 6a
143Cumberland BluesHVS 5a
 GREY MAN'S PATH WEST 
145World of SuitsVS 4c
146CoasterHS
147MainstreamE4 6a *
148Child's PlayE3 5c *
149Paralyzed PowerE6 6c **
150Low ProfileE3 5c *
151Power PlayE4 6a *
152ZuluHVS 5a
153Burn UpHVS 5a ***
154The Famished RoadHVS 5a
155CreeperE1 5b *
156Semaphore SignalsE4 5c **
157KrakenE2 5b
158Cat's MalackyE2 5c
159SaladinE5 6b
160ThranE2 5c
 THE WHITE LIGHTNING AMPHITHEATRE 
162InfidelE5 6b ***
163Black MagicE4 6a **
164Born to RunE4 6a ***
165Hallowe'enE4 6a ***
166Hallowe'en LeftE3 5c
167Hallowe'en AreteE5 6a ***
168Scott's PineE4 6a
169CrusaderE4 6a **
170The Icarus GunE3 6a **
171Eat the PeachE3 6a *
172The SlopeE3 5c
173The BadlandsE4 6a **
174Day TripperE3 6a **
175Streets of FireE3 6a ***
176White LightningE3 5c
177ZeusE3 5c
178The WeaselE2 5c
179SeabhacE5 6a **
180BrocE3 5c *
181Shattered InnocenceE3 5c
182NovemberHVS 5a
183New City AllstarsE2 5b
184Martin's RouteE2 5b
185ScarecrowHVS 5a **
 BIRD HIDE BLOCK AREA 
187Joints and JamsE2 5c
188SamhnaHS
189King CobraE1 5a
190RumoursE5 6a ***
191Baptism of FireE5 6b *
192RavenE2 5b
193MasqueradeHS 4b
194Back to the Future 8E4 6a **
195ScorpionE3 5c ***
196Something HorribleE3 6a
197Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b *
 AN BEALACH RUNDA AREA 
199Where the Wild Things AreE5 6b **
200Un Jour, Peut-EtreE6 6b ***
201An Goban SaorE1 5b *
202The X- MenE3 6a **
203The Wolverine FinishE4 6b
204An Bealach RúndaE1 5b ***
205An Bealach EileE8 6c ***
206SiroccoE1 5b
207Northern ExposureE5 6b ***
208Waiting for the SunE4 6a *
209FlashdanceE2 5b
210Peacadh MarfachE2 5b
211Absolute ZeroE5 6b **
212Give UpE4 6b **
213Tractors of DesireE3 5c *
214AD 43E5 6b **
215Dark ForcesE3 6a ***
216Men of KernowE5 6b *
217Landscapes of LightE4 6a **
218Supermassive Black HoleE3 5c *
 THE TERRACES 
220The Artful DodgerE2 5b **
221Morphine and ChocolateE2 5c
222Chapter HouseE4 6a
223BlockbusterE2 5c ***
224HerbivoreXS 5a
225The VandalsE2 5c **
226Drag Race QueenE1 5b *
227Silent RunningE4 5c **
228AifricE2 5c *
229Easy RiderE2 5b *
230Fired EarthE5 6b **
231Birth RiteE5 6a *
232Bates's MotelE3 5c **
233Solid MandalaE3 6a **
234ESPXS
 RATHLIN WALL AREA 
236ClontarfE3 5c
237Roaring MegVS 5a **
238Faerie StoriesE7 6b ***
239CúchulainnE2 5c ***
240Death or GloryE5 6a **
241London CallingE6 6b **
242VikingHVS 5a
243Little MarthaS 4b
244Drowsy MaggieS 4a
245Buttons and BowsE4 6a ***
246Spirited AwayE6 6a ***
247CinnabarE2 5c *
248Candy KissesE4 6a ***
249PuritanE2 5c
250Tír na nÓgE6 6a **
251ReiligE3 5c ***
252XLE4 6a
253XL Variation StartE4 6a
254Waist Deep in AlligatorsE4 6a ***
255LochlannachE3 6a
256Stop Making SenseE5 6b **
257Talking HeadsE4 6a **
258Muck SavageHVS 5a
259Licence to KillE4 5c **
260Cool Hand LukeE2 5c *
261The HustlerE3 6a ***
262ConchubairE2 5c ***
263The MaskE5 6a ***
264Face ValueE4 6a ***
265Flying LizardsE3 6a *
266Smashing PumpkinsE6 6a *
267Full of Energy, Ready 2 PartyE5 6a ***
268The StoatE2 5c **
269Heaven Can WaitE4 6a **
270Promised LandE4 6a **
271Primal ScreamE6 6b ***
272The Complete ScreamE8 6b ***
273Blind PewE2 5b **
274End GameE5 6a ***
275Mizen StarE2 5b ***
276TitanicE2 5c ***
277Maiden VoyageE5 6b **
278SalangoE3 5c ***
279The Fame GameE4 6a **
280Hughie GreenE3 5c **
281EquinoxE2 5b ***
282A Bad Skin DayE7 6c ***
283The Big SkinE8 6c ***
 BALLYCASTLE DESCENT GULLY EAST 
285The Rathlin EffectE8 6c ***
286Above and BeyondE6 6b ***
287The Wall of PreyE4 6b ***
288Wall of Prey (Direct Start)E5 6b ***
289Where the Grass is GreenE7 6c ***
290Once You Go Black You Never Go BackE7 6c
291Mr Blobby SupermanE7 6c ***
292Way of the Jive MonkeysE6 6b **
293Taming the TigerE6 6b
294PhilE5 6b ***
295CharonE7 6c ***
296Styx (pre-collapse)E5 6b ***
297ElysiumE6 6b
298Hell's KitchenHVS 5a ***
299Hell's Kitchen AreteE6 6a ***
300A Rite of PassageE4 6b
301Two Sides to the StoryE4 5c
302ManannanE1 5b
303Ocean BoulevardE3 5c **
304AoifeE1 5b **
305Closing TimeE6 6c
306GironaVS 5a ***
307MusaratE4 6a *
308ChieftainVS 4b **
309TaoiseachVS 4c *
310CycloneE3 5c *
311Racing LineE6 6b **
312Run Fast Run FreeE3 6a *
313Hector PickaxeE5 6b
314AprilE1 5b *
315April Variation FinishE1 5b **
316The BratVS 4b
317Master ChapsterHVS 5a
318CruthinS
 BALLYCASTLE DESCENT GULLY WEST 
320OffcutsHVS 5a
321Dusty RhodesE2 5c *
322EmmanuelleVS 4b *
323Soulful EyesVS 4c
324AndromedaHVS 4c
325Eithne IngubaE1 5b *
326ArgosyE1 5a *
327OdysseyVS 4c **
328Odyssey VariationE1 5b
329Dearg DoomVS 4c *
330Atlantic CityE1 5b *
331The Great PlainsE2 5c
332SodbusterVS 4c *
333RumplestiltskinE3 5c
334End of an EraE2 5c
335Pepper and BracketE2 5c
336The Quiet ManE2 5b
 THE PROW 
338Five Gears in ReverseE1 5b
339JubileeE1 5b
340Pyrrhic VictoryE2 5b **
341Cyprus AvenueE3 6a
342Threadneedle StreetE3 5c
343MojaveE3 5c
344Thunder RoadE3 5c ***
345Wagger MoonE2 5c **
346The DofferE1 5b *
347Black TaxiE1 5b *
348DarknessE2 5c **
349Mongrel FoxE1 5b **
350ThunderhipsE1 5b **
351Thunderhips DirectE4 6a
352FireballE1 5b ***
353Midnight CruiserE1 5b ***
354Marconi ArêteE5 6a ***
355MarconiE3 5c ***
356The EmbankmentE2 5c ***
357RailroadE1 5b ***
358BaloobaVS 4c
359Sabre RattlerHVS 4c *
360Stone MadHVS 5a
361RevivalHVS 5a
362CurlewVS 4c
363ContortionsVS 4c
364Poxy AreteE2 5c
365ContractionsVS 5a
366FoxyHS
367Good Morning JudgeHVS 5a
368EnergizeE1 5b **
369Fáth Mo BhuarthaE1 5b ***
370GBHE3 6a ***
371The Black ThiefVS 4b ***
372The FenceVS 4c ***
373The OffenceHVS 5a
374ResidueHS 4a
375Jungle RockVS 5a
376Los MolinosHS 4a
377La MolineroHVS 5a
378BrambleS
379Driodar na hAilleHS
380Simple MindsE1 5b *
381SalamanderVS 4c
 FARRANGANDOO 
383Gunther GrassS
384CasablancaVS 4c
385CadizE1 5c
386CairoHVS 5a
387FargoE3 5c
388Belfast CowboysE4 6a
389The KerbE3 5c **
390Slittery SlatE2 5c **
391Crib Pad CrackE1 5b ***
392Crib Pad Crack DirectE3 6a ***
393Pangur BánHVS 5a ***
394Dark CornersE1 5b
395LoosestrifeE1 5b
396AlleycatHVS 5b
397SamsonVS 4c *
398LazarusVS 4c *
399Hard RainE1 5b
400JezebelHVS 5b *
401VelocetteVS 4b *
402The SquirtVS 4b
403EssenceE3 5c
404Unnamed TripticE2 5c
405Big HooothcherE3 6a
406KorE3 5c
407Joy DivisionE2 5c
408Big SkyE2 5c *
409The Royal ScamE1 5b
410MoonfleetHVS 5a
411JuggernautHVS 5a
412FlashoverE3 5c
413KashubiaHVS 5a *
414ChicargoHVS 5a
415Speak EasyHVS 5a
416Shere KhanE2 5c **
417LionheartE4 6a *
418Watcher of the SkiesE2 6a
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