Fair Head

Climbs 408 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 111m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland. A fine setting with views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E8. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Approach notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Guidebooks
Fair Head (2014), Fairhead (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE SMALL CRAG  
2Backwoods JellyrollVS 4c *10
3Epileptic GrasshopperE1 5b *6
4Droughting AboutHS 4b 4
5Dirty ElvisVS 4c 1
6Diggers DelightE1 5b 1
7PPVS 4b *4
8The Gypsies Nicked Me SqueegeeE3 6a  
9The StumpHS 4b 2
10Voluminous OvercoatsVS 4c 1
11Skin the GoatHVS 5a 1
12Horse FeathersVS 4b *7
13Pat's RouteVS 4c *5
14Duck SoupVS 4c *2
15One Crack MindHVS 5b *12
16The Jungle LineVS 4c *10
17Second ChoiceS 4a 1
18Zoot Horn RolloVS 4c 1
19Aghaidh Na MuiceVS 4c 8
20Sexter's RouteVS 4c 8
21Peace through NudismVS 4b 1
22Gravy BoobyE1 5b 1
23WinkVS 4c  
24SantanaVS 4b 4
25Screeboar the OmniscientE2 5b/c 3
26Let the Children PlayHVS 5b 3
27Peas n' CarrotsE2 5c *3
28Ton le GaoithVS 4c 9
29Easy GoS 3c 4
30Left CrackVD 9
31Quare CraicVS 5a 1
32Central CrackVD 7
33Right CrackS 3
34Seeds of the WeedsE2 5b 1
35Clean BreakVS 4c 4
36Plan 9 from Outer SpaceHVS 5b *5
37ThunderchildE3 6b * 
38Run the WorldE4 5c  
39Jack in the GreenE1 5a *1
40A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a DiamondVS 4c 1
41Abba ZabbaVS 4b 1
42Thinking CapVS 5b 1
43Thinking Cap (direct finish)HVS 5a 2
44PhoenixVS 4c *6
45Living DollE2 5c *2
46MorriganE2 5b *1
47Snatch of the DayVS 5a *5
48FocusVS 4c *8
49Focus (alternative start)VS 5b *3
50The Wall of Jer'n Co.E5 6a 1
51JeffreyHVS 5a *6
52FenenstronHS 2
53AstazouVD 1
54A Scream of Two BatsVS 4c 3
55ScornflakeHVS 5a *11
56Liberty CapE1 6a *4
57J L SeagullHS 4b *12
58Tentative DecisionsE3 6a  
59FoxbatVS 4c 5
60Fissure FuarVS 4b *14
61ChristineHS 4a 1
62ParadigmVS 5a 2
63RubberwristHS 4b 8
64Juniper DodgeE1 5b 2
65SpinolaS 4a *33
66PitchforkS 4a 14
67Pitchfork (alternative finish)VS 4c *16
68BullrushVS 4c *29
69The StingHVS 5b *13
70MorningS 4a 4
71Greased FrighteningVD 3
72Emptying the ElsanS 3c 5
73Provisional TravestyS 4a  
74Rain RaceE2 6a  
75PrunesquallorHS 4b 2
76FlayVS 4c 13
77HejiraE3 5c *4
78FuschiaVS 4b *18
79SycamoreVS 4c *1
80Hazelnut AreteHVS 5b 1
81Hometown JamHVS 5b *14
82Lir's ScoopVS 4c *15
83Terminal EyesE3 5c * 
84Corner VariantHVS 5a 1
85GlipeVS 4c 1
 THE MIDDLE CRAG  
87Jug HandsE1 5b *1
88Solid BondE1 5b * 
89A Fringe of LeavesE3 6a ** 
90Easy SkankingE1 5c **2
91Sugar MagnoliaE1 5b **3
 BELOW THE MAIN CRAG  
93Trivial PusuitE1 5c  
94Saginaw SongS 4c  
95WisebloodE1 5c  
96OrangefieldVS 4c  
97The Lone GrooverHVS 4c  
 BINNAGAPPLE AREA  
99Long Runs the FoxE9 6c  
100DecemberHVS 5a **39
101DuaisE1 5b 4
102Poor RelationE1 5b **8
103Feats Don't Fail Me NowE2 5b 2
104Raglan RoadE3 6a **7
105Raglan Road Top Pitch VariationE5 6a *** 
106Binn na gCapallE2 5c * 
107CurserE2 5b  
108DoldrumE2 5c **9
109ClarionVS 4c  
110HurricaneE2 5b ***56
111Hurricane (Direct Finish)E2 5c ***8
112Green CornerHS  
113An Empty BookE8 6b *** 
114Visual ContactE3 6b **2
115Dart Vadar LivesHVS  
116Rusty HaloE4 6a ***8
117SeremHVS  
118Toby JugE1 5b **64
119The BrasserE2 5c ***36
120SandpiperE2 5c ***41
121StriapachHVS 5a *6
122Jolly RogerE3 6a ***44
123Blade RunnerE3 5c **9
124Track of the CatE4 6a ***22
125The Dark SideE8 6c ***2
126Orange Blossom SpecialE1 5b  
127Sreang ScuabE2 5c 3
128Blood LineE3 6a  
129Earnshaw's RouteVS  
130KneewreckerHVS 5a  
131Learning to FlyE5 6a ***1
 GREY MAN'S PATH EAST  
133Night RiderE5 6a ***1
134Njold's SagaE1 5b  
135Cu UladhHVS 5a 1
136Soylent GreenE1 5b 1
137Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)E3 6b  
138Bum's RushE2 5c * 
139Magennis RouteE2 5c  
140The Unforgettable FireE1 5b 3
141The Sheltering SkyE1 5b 1
142Blood MeridianE2 5c  
143Deadly PursuitE5 6b ** 
144The Grey ManE4 5c *** 
145The RocafellaE7 6c ***1
146PacemakerE3 5c  
147Idir na RitheVS 4c 4
148AntagonistE3 6a 2
149Cumberland BluesHVS 5a 1
 GREY MAN'S PATH WEST  
151World of SuitsVS 4c 3
152CoasterHS  
153MainstreamE4 6a * 
154Child's PlayE3 5c * 
155Paralyzed PowerE6 6b **2
156Low ProfileE3 5c *2
157Power PlayE4 6a * 
158ZuluHVS 5a 1
159Burn UpHVS 5a ***88
160AbyssiniaE3 5c ***1
161The Famished RoadHVS 5a 3
162CreeperE1 5b *1
163Semaphore SignalsE4 5c **1
164KrakenE2 5b  
165Cat's MalackyE2 5c  
166SaladinE5 6b  
167ThranE2 5c  
 THE WHITE LIGHTNING AMPHITHEATRE  
169InfidelE5 6b ***2
170Black MagicE4 6a **1
171Born to RunE4 6a ***27
172Hallowe'enE4 6a ***20
173Hallowe'en AreteE4 6b ***8
174Scott's PineE4 6a  
175CrusaderE4 6a **1
176The Icarus GunE3 6a ** 
177Eat the PeachE3 6a * 
178The SlopeE3 5c  
179The BadlandsE4 6a ** 
180Day TripperE3 6a **1
181Streets of FireE3 6a ***2
182White LightningE3 5c 1
183ZeusE3 5c  
184The WeaselE2 5c 1
185SeabhacE5 6a ** 
186BrocE3 5c * 
187Shattered InnocenceE3 5c  
188NovemberHVS 5a 1
189New City AllstarsE2 5b 2
190Martin's RouteE2 5b  
191ScarecrowHVS 5a **1
 BIRD HIDE BLOCK AREA  
193Joints and JamsE2 5c  
194SamhnaHS  
195King CobraE1 5a  
196RumoursE5 6a *** 
197Baptism of FireE5 6b *1
198RavenE2 5b 3
199MasqueradeHS 4b  
200Back to the Future 8E4 6a **4
201ScorpionE3 5c ***2
202Something HorribleE3 6a 1
203Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b *2
 AN BEALACH RUNDA AREA  
205Where the Wild Things AreE5 6b ***2
206Un Jour, Peut-EtreE6 6b ***2
207An Goban SaorE1 5b *2
208The X- MenE3 6a **2
209The Wolverine FinishE4 6b  
210An Bealach RúndaE1 5b ***63
211An Bealach EileE8 6c *** 
212SiroccoE1 5b  
213Northern ExposureE5 6b ***7
214Waiting for the SunE4 6a * 
215FlashdanceE2 5b  
216Peacadh MarfachE2 5b  
217Absolute ZeroE5 6b ** 
218Give UpE4 6b ** 
219Tractors of DesireE3 5c *1
220AD 43E5 6b ** 
221Dark ForcesE3 6a ***10
222Men of KernowE5 6b * 
223Landscapes of LightE4 6a ** 
224Supermassive Black HoleE3 5c * 
 THE TERRACES  
226The Artful DodgerE2 5b **2
227Morphine and ChocolateE2 5c  
228Chapter HouseE4 6a  
229BlockbusterE2 5c ***9
230HerbivoreXS 5a 1
231The VandalsE2 5c **3
232Drag Race QueenE1 5b *2
233Silent RunningE4 5c ** 
234AifricE2 5c * 
235Easy RiderE2 5b *2
236Fired EarthE5 6b ** 
237Birth RiteE5 6a * 
238Bates's MotelE3 5c **4
239Solid MandalaE3 6a **2
240ESPXS  
 RATHLIN WALL AREA  
242ClontarfE3 5c  
243Roaring MegVS 5a **54
244Faerie StoriesE6 6b ***1
245CúchulainnE2 5c ***28
246Death or GloryE4 6a *** 
247London CallingE5 6b ** 
248VikingHVS 5a  
249Little MarthaS 4b 2
250Drowsy MaggieS 4a 2
251Buttons and BowsE4 6a ***10
252Spirited AwayE7 6b *** 
253CinnabarE2 5c *4
254Candy KissesE4 6a ***6
255PuritanE2 5c  
256Tír na nÓgE6 6a **1
257ReiligE3 5c **1
258XLE4 6a * 
259XL Variation StartE4 6a  
260Waist Deep in AlligatorsE4 6a *** 
261LochlannachE3 6a  
262Stop Making SenseE5 6b ** 
263Talking HeadsE4 6a **10
264Muck SavageHVS 5a 1
265Licence to KillE4 5c ** 
266Cool Hand LukeE2 5c *2
267The HustlerE3 6a ***23
268ConchubairE2 5c ***39
269The MaskE5 6a ***24
270Face ValueE4 6a ***44
271Flying LizardsE3 6a *2
272Smashing PumpkinsE6 6a * 
273Full of Energy, Ready 2 PartyE5 6a *** 
274The StoatE2 5c **7
275Heaven Can WaitE4 6a ** 
276The Promised LandE4 6a ***20
277The Complete ScreamE8 6b ***1
278Primal ScreamE6 6b ***12
279Blind PewE2 5b **54
280End GameE5 6a *** 
281Mizen StarE2 5b ***53
282TitanicE2 5c ***16
283Maiden VoyageE5 6b **1
284SalangoE3 5c ***40
285The Fame GameE4 6a **3
286Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start)E3 5c **1
287EquinoxE2 5b ***78
288A Bad Skin DayE7 6c *** 
289The Big SkinE8 6c *** 
 BALLYCASTLE DESCENT GULLY EAST  
291The Rathlin EffectE8 6c *** 
292Below and BeholdE7 6c *** 
293Above and BeyondE6 6b ***12
294Once You Go Black You Never Go BackE7 6c *** 
295Where the Grass is GreenE7 6c *** 
296The Wall of PreyE5 6b ***41
297The Wall of Prey (Direct Start)E5 6b *** 
298Taming the TigerE6 6b *** 
299PhilE5 6b ** 
300Way of the Jive MonkeysE7 6b ***3
301StyxE7 6c *** 
302Styx (pre-collapse)E5 6b ***1
303Hell's KitchenHVS 5a ***130
304Hell's Kitchen AreteE6 6a ***9
305A Rite of PassageE4 6b  
306Two Sides to the StoryE4 5c  
307ManannánE1 5b  
308Ocean BoulevardE3 5c ***22
309AoifeE1 5b **58
310Closing TimeE6 6c  
311GironaVS 5a ***144
312MusaratE4 6a * 
313ChieftainVS 4b **110
314TaoiseachVS 4c *47
315CycloneE3 5c *2
316Racing LineE6 6b ** 
317Run Fast Run FreeE3 6a *12
318Hector PickaxeE5 6b  
319AprilE1 5b *20
320April Variation FinishE1 5b **21
321The BratVS 4b 15
322Master ChapsterHVS 5a 1
323CruthinS 1
 BALLYCASTLE DESCENT GULLY WEST  
325OffcutsHVS 5a 4
326Dusty RhodesE2 5c *1
327EmmanuelleVS 4b *2
328Soulful EyesVS 4c 1
329AndromedaHVS 4c  
330Eithne IngubaE1 5b *3
331ArgosyE1 5a *2
332OdysseyVS 4c **32
333Odyssey VariationE1 5b 2
334Dearg DoomVS 4c *5
335Atlantic CityE1 5b * 
336The Great PlainsE2 5c  
337SodbusterVS 4c *1
338RumplestiltskinE3 5c 1
339End of an EraE2 5c  
340Pepper and BracketE2 5c  
341The Quiet ManE2 5b  
 THE PROW  
343Five Gears in ReverseE1 5b 1
344JubileeE1 5b  
345Pyrrhic VictoryE2 5b **5
346Cyprus AvenueE3 6a  
347Threadneedle StreetE3 5c  
348MojaveE3 5c  
349Thunder RoadE3 5c ***7
350Wagger MoonE2 5c **5
351The DofferE1 5b *3
352Black TaxiE1 5b *6
353DarknessE2 5c **21
354Mongrel FoxE1 5b **41
355ThunderhipsE1 5b **23
356Thunderhips DirectE4 6a  
357FireballE1 5b ***89
358Midnight CruiserE1 5b ***134
359Marconi ArêteE4 6a * 
360MarconiE3 5c ***49
361The EmbankmentE2 5c ***66
362RailroadE1 5b ***115
363BaloobaVS 4c 7
364Sabre RattlerHVS 4c *24
365Stone MadHVS 5a 25
366RevivalHVS 5a 11
367CurlewVS 4c 25
368ContortionsVS 4c 22
369Poxy AreteE2 5c 1
370ContractionsVS 5a 21
371FoxyHS 6
372Good Morning JudgeHVS 5a 41
373EnergizeE1 5b ** 
374Fáth Mo BhuarthaE1 5b ***98
375GBHE3 6a ***54
376The Black ThiefVS 4b ***184
377The FenceVS 4c ***149
378The OffenceHVS 5a 22
379ResidueHS 4a 1
380Jungle RockVS 5a 2
381Los MolinosHS 4a 4
382La MolineroHVS 5a 7
383BrambleS 25
384Driodar na hAilleHS 12
385Simple MindsE1 5b *24
386SalamanderVS 4c 7
 FARRANGANDOO  
388Gunther GrassS 4
389CasablancaVS 4c 13
390CadizE1 5c  
391CairoHVS 5a  
392FargoE3 5c  
393Belfast CowboysE4 6a  
394The KerbE3 5c ** 
395Slittery SlatE2 5c ** 
396Crib Pad CrackE1 5b ***20
397Crib Pad Crack DirectE3 6a ***8
398Pangur BánHVS 5a ***43
399Dark CornersE1 5b 1
400LoosestrifeE1 5b 1
401AlleycatHVS 5b 1
402SamsonVS 4c *3
403LazarusVS 4c *14
404Hard RainE1 5b 2
405JezebelHVS 5b *4
406VelocetteVS 4b *2
407The SquirtVS 4b 1
408EssenceE3 5c  
409Unnamed TripticE2 5c  
410Big HooothcherE3 6a  
411KorE3 5c  
412Joy DivisionE2 5c  
413Big SkyE2 5c *1
414The Royal ScamE1 5b  
415MoonfleetHVS 5a 1
416JuggernautHVS 5a  
417FlashoverE3 5c  
418KashubiaHVS 5a * 
419ChicargoHVS 5a  
420Speak EasyHVS 5a  
421Shere KhanE2 5c ** 
422LionheartE4 6a * 
423Watcher of the SkiesE2 6a  
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