Climbs 415
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces N

David "Nails" Ewing feeling the pressure of Fair Head! :) © www.pedropimentel.net

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland - a big cliff with a big atmosphere. Great views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E9. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Approach notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Small Crag 
2Backwoods Jellyroll
-
VS 4c *12
3Epileptic Grasshopper
-
E1 5b *7
4Droughting About
-
HS 4b 4
5Elvis LivesHS 4b 2
6Dirty ElvisVS 4c 1
7Diggers DelightE1 5b 1
8PP
-
VS 4b *4
9The Gypsies Nicked Me Squeegee
-
E3 6a  
10The Stump
-
HS 4b 2
11Voluminous Overcoats
-
VS 4c 3
12Skin the Goat
-
HVS 5a 1
13Horse Feathers
-
VS 4b *8
14Pat's Route
-
VS 4c *11
15Duck Soup
-
VS 4c *6
16One Crack Mind
-
HVS 5b *16
17The Jungle Line
-
VS 4c *14
18Second Choice
-
S 4a 1
19Zoot Horn Rollo
-
VS 4c 3
20Aghaidh Na Muice
-
VS 4c 11
21Sexter's Route
-
VS 4c 12
22Peace through NudismVS 4b 3
23Gravy BoobyE1 5b 1
24Wink
-
VS 4c  
25Santana
-
VS 4b 5
26Screeboar the OmniscientE2 5b/c 4
27Let the Children Play
-
HVS 5b 3
28Peas n' CarrotsE2 5c *3
29Ton le Gaoith
-
VS 4c 10
30Easy Go
-
S 3c 4
31Left Crack
-
VD 13
32Quare CraicHS 4c 4
33Central Crack
-
VD 8
34Right Crack
-
S 4
35Seeds of the Weeds
-
E2 5b 2
36Clean Break
-
VS 4c 5
37Plan 9 from Outer SpaceHVS 5b *7
38Thunderchild
-
E3 6b *1
39Nobody MoveE4 6a **1
40Nobody Get HurtE4 6b **1
41Run the World
-
E4 5c  
42Jack in the Green
-
E1 5a *2
43A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a Diamond
-
VS 4c 1
44Abba Zabba
-
VS 4b 1
45Thinking Cap
-
VS 5b 1
46Thinking Cap (direct finish)
-
HVS 5a 2
47Phoenix
-
VS 4c *6
48Living Doll
-
E2 5c *2
49Morrigan
-
E2 5b *1
50Snatch of the DayVS 5a *5
51Focus
-
VS 4c *10
52Focus (alternative start)
-
VS 5b *3
53The Wall of Jer'n Co.E5 6a 1
54Jeffrey
-
HVS 5a *7
55Fenenstron
-
HS 2
56Astazou
-
VD 6
57A Scream of Two Bats
-
VS 4c 3
58Scornflake
-
HVS 5a *11
59Liberty Cap
-
E1 6a *4
60J L Seagull
-
HS 4b *13
61Tentative Decisions
-
E3 6a  
62FoxbatVS 4c 5
63Fissure FuarVS 4b *16
64Christine
-
HS 4a 1
65Paradigm
-
VS 5a 2
66RubberwristHS 4b 13
67Juniper DodgeE1 5b 2
68Spinola
-
S 4a *48
69Pitchfork
-
S 4a 17
70Pitchfork (alternative finish)
-
VS 4c *21
71Bullrush
-
VS 4c *31
72The Sting
-
HVS 5b *13
73Morning
-
S 4a 4
74Greased Frightening
-
VD 3
75Emptying the Elsan
-
S 3c 5
76Provisional Travesty
-
S 4a  
77Rain Race
-
E2 6a  
78Prunesquallor
-
HS 4b 2
79Flay
-
VS 4c 13
80Hejira
-
E3 5c *4
81FuschiaVS 4b *18
82SycamoreVS 4c *1
83Hazelnut AreteHVS 5b 1
84Hometown Jam
-
HVS 5b *14
85Lir's Scoop
-
VS 4c *15
86Terminal Eyes
-
E3 5c * 
87Corner VariantHVS 5a 1
88Glipe
-
VS 4c 1
 The Middle Crag 
90Jug Hands
-
E1 5b *1
91Solid Bond
-
E1 5b * 
92A Fringe of Leaves
-
E3 6a ** 
93Easy Skanking
-
E1 5c **2
94Sugar Magnolia
-
E1 5b **3
 Below the Main Crag 
96Trivial Pusuit
-
E1 5c  
97Saginaw Song
-
S 4c  
98Wiseblood
-
E1 5c  
99Orangefield
-
VS 4c  
100The Lone Groover
-
HVS 4c  
 Binnagapple Area 
102Long Runs the Fox
-
E9 6c  
103December
-
HVS 5a **63
104DuaisE1 5b 4
105Poor RelationE1 5b **11
106Feats Don't Fail Me Now
-
E2 5b 2
107Raglan Road
-
E3 6a **9
108Raglan Road Top Pitch Variation
-
E5 6a *** 
109Binn na gCapall
-
E2 5c *1
110Curser
-
E2 5b  
111DoldrumE2 5c **9
112Clarion
-
VS 4c  
113Hurricane
-
E2 5b ***94
114Hurricane (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c ***15
115The Vital SparkE2 5c 4
116Green Corner
-
HS  
117An Empty BookE8 6b *** 
118Visual Contact
-
E3 6b **2
119Dart Vadar Lives
-
HVS  
120Rusty HaloE4 6a ***17
121Serem
-
HVS  
122Cake WalkE3 5c 4
123Toby Jug
-
E1 5b **85
124The Brasser
-
E2 5c ***58
125Sandpiper
-
E2 5c ***61
126StriapachHVS 5a *6
127Jolly Roger
-
E3 6a ***73
128Blade Runner
-
E3 5c **25
129Track of the CatE4 6a ***43
130The Dark Side
-
E8 6c ***2
131Orange Blossom Special
-
E1 5b  
132Sreang Scuab
-
E2 5c 3
133Blood Line
-
E3 6a  
134Earnshaw's Route
-
VS  
135Kneewrecker
-
HVS 5a  
136Learning to Fly
-
E5 6a ***1
 Grey Man's Path East 
138Night RiderE5 6a ***1
139Njold's SagaE3 5c  
140ThorE3 5c **2
141Cu UladhHVS 5a 1
142Soylent GreenE1 5b 1
143Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)
-
E3 6b 1
144Bum's Rush
-
E2 5c * 
145Magennis Route
-
E2 5c  
146The Unforgettable Fire
-
E1 5b 3
147The Sheltering Sky
-
E1 5b 1
148Blood Meridian
-
E2 5c  
149Deadly Pursuit
-
E5 6b ** 
150The Grey Man
-
E4 5c *** 
151The Rocafella
-
E7 6c ***1
152Pacemaker
-
E3 5c 1
153Idir na Rithe
-
VS 4c 5
154Antagonist
-
E3 6a 2
155Cumberland Blues
-
HVS 5a 1
 Grey Man's Path West 
157World of Suits
-
VS 4c 3
158Coaster
-
HS  
159Mainstream
-
E4 6a * 
160Child's Play
-
E3 5c * 
161Paralyzed Power
-
E6 6b **2
162Low Profile
-
E3 5c *3
163Power Play
-
E4 6a * 
164ZuluHVS 5a 1
165Burn Up
-
E1 5a ***150
166AbyssiniaE3 5c ***1
167The Famished RoadHVS 5a 4
168CreeperE1 5b *2
169Semaphore Signals
-
E4 5c **1
170KrakenE2 5b  
171Cat's MalackyE2 5c  
172SaladinE5 6b  
173ThranE2 5c  
 The White Lightning Amphitheatre 
175InfidelE5 6b ***2
176Black Magic
-
E4 6a **1
177Born to RunE4 6a ***45
178Hallowe'enE4 6a ***28
179Hallowe'en AreteE4 6b ***15
180Scott's Pine
-
E4 6a  
181CrusaderE4 6a **4
182The Icarus Gun
-
E3 6a ** 
183Eat the Peach
-
E3 6a * 
184The Slope
-
E3 5c  
185The Badlands
-
E4 6a ** 
186Day Tripper
-
E3 6a **1
187Streets of Fire
-
E3 6a ***2
188White Lightning
-
E3 5c 1
189Zeus
-
E3 5c  
190The Weasel
-
E2 5c 1
191Seabhac
-
E5 6a ** 
192Broc
-
E3 5c * 
193Shattered Innocence
-
E3 5c  
194November
-
HVS 5a 1
195New City Allstars
-
E2 5b 2
196Martin's Route
-
E2 5b 2
197Scarecrow
-
HVS 5a **1
 Bird Hide Block Area 
199Joints and Jams
-
E2 5c  
200Samhna
-
HS  
201King Cobra
-
E1 5a  
202Rumours
-
E5 6a *** 
203Baptism of Fire
-
E5 6b *1
204RavenE2 5b 3
205Masquerade
-
HS 4b  
206Back to the Future 8E4 6a **4
207ScorpionE3 5c ***2
208Something HorribleE3 6a 1
209Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b *2
 An Bealach Runda Area 
211Where the Wild Things Are
-
E5 6b ***2
212Un Jour, Peut-EtreE6 6b ***2
213An Goban SaorE1 5b *3
214The X- MenE3 6a **7
215The Wolverine Finish
-
E4 6b  
216An Bealach RúndaE1 5b ***111
217An Bealach Eile
-
E8 6c *** 
218Sirocco
-
E1 5b  
219Northern ExposureE5 6b ***13
220Waiting for the SunE4 6a * 
221FlashdanceE2 5b  
222Peacadh MarfachE2 5b  
223Absolute ZeroE5 6b ** 
224Give UpE4 6b ** 
225Tractors of Desire
-
E3 5c *1
226AD 43
-
E5 6b ** 
227Dark ForcesE3 6a ***12
228Men of Kernow
-
E5 6b * 
229Landscapes of Light
-
E4 6a ** 
230Supermassive Black Hole
-
E3 5c * 
 The Terraces 
232The Artful DodgerE2 5b **3
233Morphine and Chocolate
-
E2 5c  
234Chapter House
-
E4 6a  
235BlockbusterE2 5c ***17
236HerbivoreXS 5a 1
237The Vandals
-
E2 5c **3
238Drag Race Queen
-
E1 5b *3
239Silent Running
-
E4 5c **1
240AifricE2 5c * 
241Easy RiderE2 5b *2
242Fired Earth
-
E5 6b ** 
243Birth Rite
-
E5 6a * 
244Bates's MotelE3 5c **4
245Solid MandalaE3 6a **2
246ESPXS  
 Rathlin Wall Area 
248ClontarfE3 5c  
249Roaring MegVS 5a **81
250Faerie Stories
-
E6 6b ***1
251CúchulainnE2 5c ***45
252Death or Glory
-
E4 6a *** 
253London Calling
-
E5 6b ** 
254VikingHVS 5a  
255Little Martha
-
S 4b 2
256Drowsy Maggie
-
S 4a 2
257Buttons and Bows
-
E4 6a ***16
258Spirited AwayE7 6b *** 
259Cinnabar
-
E2 5c *4
260Candy Kisses
-
E4 6a ***13
261Puritan
-
E2 5c  
262Tír na nÓgE6 6a **3
263Reilig
-
E3 5c **1
264XL
-
E4 6a * 
265XL Variation Start
-
E4 6a  
266Waist Deep in Alligators
-
E4 6a *** 
267Lochlannach
-
E3 6a  
268Stop Making Sense
-
E5 6b ** 
269Talking Heads
-
E4 6a **17
270Muck Savage
-
HVS 5a 1
271Licence to Kill
-
E4 5c ** 
272Cool Hand LukeE2 5c *3
273The Hustler
-
E3 6a ***26
274Conchubair
-
E2 5c ***50
275The MaskE5 6a ***36
276Face ValueE4 6a ***81
277Flying Lizards
-
E3 6a *2
278Smashing Pumpkins
-
E6 6a * 
279Full of Energy, Ready 2 PartyE5 6a *** 
280The Stoat
-
E2 5c **9
281Heaven Can Wait
-
E4 6a ** 
282The Promised Land
-
E4 6a ***32
283The Complete ScreamE8 6b ***1
284Primal ScreamE6 6b ***19
285Blind Pew
-
E2 5b **72
286End Game
-
E5 6a *** 
287Mizen StarE2 5b ***82
288Titanic
-
E2 5c ***37
289Maiden Voyage
-
E5 6b **1
290Salango
-
E3 5c ***47
291The Fame GameE4 6a **3
292Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start)
-
E3 5c **1
293EquinoxE2 5b ***130
294A Bad Skin DayE7 6c *** 
295The Big SkinE8 6c *** 
 Ballycastle Descent Gully East 
297The Rathlin EffectE8 6c *** 
298Below and BeholdE7 6c *** 
299Above and BeyondE6 6b ***14
300Once You Go Black You Never Go BackE7 6c *** 
301Where the Grass is GreenE7 6c *** 
302The Wall of PreyE5 6b ***54
303The Wall of Prey (Direct Start)E5 6b *** 
304Taming the TigerE6 6b *** 
305PhilE5 6b ** 
306Way of the Jive MonkeysE7 6b ***3
307Styx
-
E7 6c *** 
308Styx (pre-collapse)
-
E5 6b ***1
309Hell's Kitchen
-
HVS 5a ***205
310Hell's Kitchen Arete
-
E6 6a ***14
311A Rite of Passage
-
E4 6b  
312Two Sides to the Story
-
E4 5c  
313ManannánE1 5b  
314Ocean Boulevard
-
E3 5c ***46
315Aoife
-
E2 5b **94
316Closing Time
-
E6 6c  
317Girona
-
VS 5a ***214
318Musarat
-
E4 6a * 
319Chieftain
-
VS 4b **155
320Taoiseach
-
VS 4c *76
321Cyclone
-
E3 5c *1
322Racing Line
-
E6 6b ** 
323Run Fast Run Free
-
E3 6a *26
324Hector Pickaxe
-
E5 6b  
325April
-
E1 5b *24
326April Variation Finish
-
E1 5b **32
327The Brat
-
VS 4b 18
328Master Chapster
-
HVS 5a 3
329Cruthin
-
S 2
 Ballycastle Descent Gully West 
331Offcuts
-
HVS 5a 5
332Dusty Rhodes
-
E2 5c *1
333Emmanuelle
-
VS 4b *4
334Soulful Eyes
-
VS 4c 1
335Andromeda
-
HVS 4c 1
336Eithne Inguba
-
E1 5b *3
337ArgosyE1 5a *3
338OdysseyVS 4c **47
339Odyssey Variation
-
E1 5b 2
340Dearg DoomVS 4c *7
341Atlantic City
-
E1 5b * 
342The Great Plains
-
E2 5c  
343Sodbuster
-
VS 4c *2
344Rumplestiltskin
-
E3 5c 1
345End of an Era
-
E2 5c  
346Pepper and Bracket
-
E2 5c  
347The Quiet Man
-
E2 5b  
 The Prow 
349Five Gears in ReverseE1 5b 1
350Jubilee
-
E1 5b  
351Pyrrhic Victory
-
E2 5b **5
352Cyprus Avenue
-
E3 6a  
353Threadneedle Street
-
E3 5c  
354Mojave
-
E3 5c  
355Thunder Road
-
E3 5c ***7
356Wagger Moon
-
E2 5c **6
357The Doffer
-
E1 5b *3
358Black Taxi
-
E1 5b *10
359Darkness
-
E2 5c **23
360Mongrel Fox
-
E1 5b **51
361Thunderhips
-
E1 5b **27
362Thunderhips Direct
-
E4 6a  
363Fireball
-
E1 5b ***133
364Midnight Cruiser
-
E1 5b ***195
365Marconi Arête
-
E4 6a * 
366Marconi
-
E3 5c ***66
367The Embankment
-
E2 5c ***81
368Railroad
-
E1 5b ***163
369Balooba
-
VS 4c 8
370Sabre Rattler
-
HVS 4c *27
371Stone Mad
-
HVS 5a 30
372Revival
-
HVS 5a 12
373Curlew
-
VS 4c 33
374Contortions
-
VS 4c 26
375Poxy Arete
-
E2 5c 1
376Contractions
-
VS 5a 26
377Foxy
-
HS 7
378Good Morning Judge
-
HVS 5a 51
379Energize
-
E1 5b ** 
380Fáth Mo Bhuartha
-
E1 5b ***135
381GBH
-
E3 6a ***92
382The Black Thief
-
VS 4b ***246
383The Fence
-
VS 4c ***195
384The Offence
-
HVS 5a 30
385Residue
-
HS 4a 1
386Jungle Rock
-
VS 5a 5
387Los Molinos
-
HS 4a 4
388La Molinero
-
HVS 5a 9
389Bramble
-
S 31
390Driodar na hAille
-
HS 15
391Simple Minds
-
E1 5b *29
392Salamander
-
VS 4c 10
 Farrangandoo 
394Gunther Grass
-
S 5
395CasablancaVS 4c 19
396Cadiz
-
E1 5c  
397Cairo
-
HVS 5a  
398Fargo
-
E3 5c  
399Belfast Cowboys
-
E4 6a  
400The Kerb
-
E3 5c ** 
401Slittery Slat
-
E2 5c **2
402Crib Pad Crack
-
E1 5b ***37
403Crib Pad Crack Direct
-
E3 6a ***8
404Pangur Bán
-
HVS 5a ***77
405Dark Corners
-
E1 5b 1
406Loosestrife
-
E1 5b 2
407AlleycatHVS 5b 1
408SamsonVS 4c *3
409LazarusVS 4c *19
410Hard RainE1 5b 4
411JezebelHVS 5b *9
412VelocetteVS 4b *5
413ProvidenceHVS 5a 1
414The SquirtVS 4b 1
415Essence
-
E3 5c  
416Unnamed Triptic
-
E2 5c  
417Big Hooothcher
-
E3 6a  
418Kor
-
E3 5c  
419Joy Division
-
E2 5c  
420Big Sky
-
E2 5c *1
421The Royal Scam
-
E1 5b  
422Moonfleet
-
HVS 5a 1
423Juggernaut
-
HVS 5a 1
424Flashover
-
E3 5c  
425Kashubia
-
HVS 5a * 
426Chicargo
-
HVS 5a  
427Speak Easy
-
HVS 5a  
428Shere Khan
-
E2 5c ** 
429Lionheart
-
E4 6a * 
430Watcher of the Skies
-
E2 6a  

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