Climbs 412
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces N

David "Nails" Ewing feeling the pressure of Fair Head! :) © www.pedropimentel.net

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland - a big cliff with a big atmosphere. Great views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E9. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Approach notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Small Crag 
2Backwoods Jellyroll
-
VS 4c *12
3Epileptic Grasshopper
-
E1 5b *7
4Droughting About
-
HS 4b 4
5Elvis LivesHS 4b 2
6Dirty ElvisVS 4c 1
7Diggers DelightE1 5b 1
8PP
-
VS 4b *4
9The Gypsies Nicked Me Squeegee
-
E3 6a  
10The Stump
-
HS 4b 2
11Voluminous Overcoats
-
VS 4c 3
12Skin the Goat
-
HVS 5a 1
13Horse Feathers
-
VS 4b *8
14Pat's Route
-
VS 4c *11
15Duck Soup
-
VS 4c *6
16One Crack Mind
-
HVS 5b *16
17The Jungle Line
-
VS 4c *14
18Second Choice
-
S 4a 1
19Zoot Horn Rollo
-
VS 4c 3
20Aghaidh Na Muice
-
VS 4c 11
21Sexter's Route
-
VS 4c 11
22Peace through NudismVS 4b 3
23Gravy BoobyE1 5b 1
24Wink
-
VS 4c  
25Santana
-
VS 4b 5
26Screeboar the OmniscientE2 5b/c 4
27Let the Children Play
-
HVS 5b 3
28Peas n' CarrotsE2 5c *3
29Ton le Gaoith
-
VS 4c 10
30Easy Go
-
S 3c 4
31Left Crack
-
VD 11
32Quare CraicHS 4c 4
33Central Crack
-
VD 8
34Right Crack
-
S 4
35Seeds of the Weeds
-
E2 5b 2
36Clean Break
-
VS 4c 5
37Plan 9 from Outer SpaceHVS 5b *7
38Thunderchild
-
E3 6b *1
39Run the World
-
E4 5c  
40Jack in the Green
-
E1 5a *2
41A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a Diamond
-
VS 4c 1
42Abba Zabba
-
VS 4b 1
43Thinking Cap
-
VS 5b 1
44Thinking Cap (direct finish)
-
HVS 5a 2
45Phoenix
-
VS 4c *6
46Living Doll
-
E2 5c *2
47Morrigan
-
E2 5b *1
48Snatch of the DayVS 5a *5
49Focus
-
VS 4c *10
50Focus (alternative start)
-
VS 5b *3
51The Wall of Jer'n Co.E5 6a 1
52Jeffrey
-
HVS 5a *7
53Fenenstron
-
HS 2
54Astazou
-
VD 4
55A Scream of Two Bats
-
VS 4c 3
56Scornflake
-
HVS 5a *11
57Liberty Cap
-
E1 6a *4
58J L Seagull
-
HS 4b *13
59Tentative Decisions
-
E3 6a  
60FoxbatVS 4c 5
61Fissure FuarVS 4b *16
62Christine
-
HS 4a 1
63Paradigm
-
VS 5a 2
64RubberwristHS 4b 11
65Juniper DodgeE1 5b 2
66Spinola
-
S 4a *46
67Pitchfork
-
S 4a 17
68Pitchfork (alternative finish)
-
VS 4c *19
69Bullrush
-
VS 4c *31
70The Sting
-
HVS 5b *13
71Morning
-
S 4a 4
72Greased Frightening
-
VD 3
73Emptying the Elsan
-
S 3c 5
74Provisional Travesty
-
S 4a  
75Rain Race
-
E2 6a  
76Prunesquallor
-
HS 4b 2
77Flay
-
VS 4c 13
78Hejira
-
E3 5c *4
79FuschiaVS 4b *18
80SycamoreVS 4c *1
81Hazelnut AreteHVS 5b 1
82Hometown Jam
-
HVS 5b *14
83Lir's Scoop
-
VS 4c *15
84Terminal Eyes
-
E3 5c * 
85Corner VariantHVS 5a 1
86Glipe
-
VS 4c 1
 The Middle Crag 
88Jug Hands
-
E1 5b *1
89Solid Bond
-
E1 5b * 
90A Fringe of Leaves
-
E3 6a ** 
91Easy Skanking
-
E1 5c **2
92Sugar Magnolia
-
E1 5b **3
 Below the Main Crag 
94Trivial Pusuit
-
E1 5c  
95Saginaw Song
-
S 4c  
96Wiseblood
-
E1 5c  
97Orangefield
-
VS 4c  
98The Lone Groover
-
HVS 4c  
 Binnagapple Area 
100Long Runs the Fox
-
E9 6c  
101December
-
HVS 5a **63
102DuaisE1 5b 4
103Poor RelationE1 5b **11
104Feats Don't Fail Me Now
-
E2 5b 2
105Raglan Road
-
E3 6a **9
106Raglan Road Top Pitch Variation
-
E5 6a *** 
107Binn na gCapall
-
E2 5c *1
108Curser
-
E2 5b  
109DoldrumE2 5c **9
110Clarion
-
VS 4c  
111Hurricane
-
E2 5b ***71
112Hurricane (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c ***15
113The Vital SparkE2 5c 2
114Green Corner
-
HS  
115An Empty BookE8 6b *** 
116Visual Contact
-
E3 6b **2
117Dart Vadar Lives
-
HVS  
118Rusty HaloE4 6a ***10
119Serem
-
HVS  
120Cake WalkE3 5c 4
121Toby Jug
-
E1 5b **84
122The Brasser
-
E2 5c ***46
123Sandpiper
-
E2 5c ***61
124StriapachHVS 5a *6
125Jolly Roger
-
E3 6a ***72
126Blade Runner
-
E3 5c **14
127Track of the CatE4 6a ***27
128The Dark Side
-
E8 6c ***2
129Orange Blossom Special
-
E1 5b  
130Sreang Scuab
-
E2 5c 3
131Blood Line
-
E3 6a  
132Earnshaw's Route
-
VS  
133Kneewrecker
-
HVS 5a  
134Learning to Fly
-
E5 6a ***1
 Grey Man's Path East 
136Night RiderE5 6a ***1
137Njold's SagaE1 5b  
138Cu UladhHVS 5a 1
139Soylent GreenE1 5b 1
140Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)
-
E3 6b 1
141Bum's Rush
-
E2 5c * 
142Magennis Route
-
E2 5c  
143The Unforgettable Fire
-
E1 5b 3
144The Sheltering Sky
-
E1 5b 1
145Blood Meridian
-
E2 5c  
146Deadly Pursuit
-
E5 6b ** 
147The Grey Man
-
E4 5c *** 
148The Rocafella
-
E7 6c ***1
149Pacemaker
-
E3 5c 1
150Idir na Rithe
-
VS 4c 5
151Antagonist
-
E3 6a 2
152Cumberland Blues
-
HVS 5a 1
 Grey Man's Path West 
154World of Suits
-
VS 4c 3
155Coaster
-
HS  
156Mainstream
-
E4 6a * 
157Child's Play
-
E3 5c * 
158Paralyzed Power
-
E6 6b **2
159Low Profile
-
E3 5c *3
160Power Play
-
E4 6a * 
161ZuluHVS 5a 1
162Burn Up
-
E1 5a ***148
163AbyssiniaE3 5c ***1
164The Famished RoadHVS 5a 4
165CreeperE1 5b *2
166Semaphore Signals
-
E4 5c **1
167KrakenE2 5b  
168Cat's MalackyE2 5c  
169SaladinE5 6b  
170ThranE2 5c  
 The White Lightning Amphitheatre 
172InfidelE5 6b ***2
173Black Magic
-
E4 6a **1
174Born to RunE4 6a ***45
175Hallowe'enE4 6a ***28
176Hallowe'en AreteE4 6b ***15
177Scott's Pine
-
E4 6a  
178CrusaderE4 6a **4
179The Icarus Gun
-
E3 6a ** 
180Eat the Peach
-
E3 6a * 
181The Slope
-
E3 5c  
182The Badlands
-
E4 6a ** 
183Day Tripper
-
E3 6a **1
184Streets of Fire
-
E3 6a ***2
185White Lightning
-
E3 5c 1
186Zeus
-
E3 5c  
187The Weasel
-
E2 5c 1
188Seabhac
-
E5 6a ** 
189Broc
-
E3 5c * 
190Shattered Innocence
-
E3 5c  
191November
-
HVS 5a 1
192New City Allstars
-
E2 5b 2
193Martin's Route
-
E2 5b 2
194Scarecrow
-
HVS 5a **1
 Bird Hide Block Area 
196Joints and Jams
-
E2 5c  
197Samhna
-
HS  
198King Cobra
-
E1 5a  
199Rumours
-
E5 6a *** 
200Baptism of Fire
-
E5 6b *1
201RavenE2 5b 3
202Masquerade
-
HS 4b  
203Back to the Future 8E4 6a **4
204ScorpionE3 5c ***2
205Something HorribleE3 6a 1
206Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b *2
 An Bealach Runda Area 
208Where the Wild Things Are
-
E5 6b ***2
209Un Jour, Peut-EtreE6 6b ***2
210An Goban SaorE1 5b *3
211The X- MenE3 6a **7
212The Wolverine Finish
-
E4 6b  
213An Bealach RúndaE1 5b ***109
214An Bealach Eile
-
E8 6c *** 
215Sirocco
-
E1 5b  
216Northern ExposureE5 6b ***13
217Waiting for the SunE4 6a * 
218FlashdanceE2 5b  
219Peacadh MarfachE2 5b  
220Absolute ZeroE5 6b ** 
221Give UpE4 6b ** 
222Tractors of Desire
-
E3 5c *1
223AD 43
-
E5 6b ** 
224Dark ForcesE3 6a ***12
225Men of Kernow
-
E5 6b * 
226Landscapes of Light
-
E4 6a ** 
227Supermassive Black Hole
-
E3 5c * 
 The Terraces 
229The Artful DodgerE2 5b **3
230Morphine and Chocolate
-
E2 5c  
231Chapter House
-
E4 6a  
232BlockbusterE2 5c ***17
233HerbivoreXS 5a 1
234The Vandals
-
E2 5c **3
235Drag Race Queen
-
E1 5b *3
236Silent Running
-
E4 5c **1
237AifricE2 5c * 
238Easy RiderE2 5b *2
239Fired Earth
-
E5 6b ** 
240Birth Rite
-
E5 6a * 
241Bates's MotelE3 5c **4
242Solid MandalaE3 6a **2
243ESPXS  
 Rathlin Wall Area 
245ClontarfE3 5c  
246Roaring MegVS 5a **67
247Faerie Stories
-
E6 6b ***1
248CúchulainnE2 5c ***45
249Death or Glory
-
E4 6a *** 
250London Calling
-
E5 6b ** 
251VikingHVS 5a  
252Little Martha
-
S 4b 2
253Drowsy Maggie
-
S 4a 2
254Buttons and Bows
-
E4 6a ***12
255Spirited AwayE7 6b *** 
256Cinnabar
-
E2 5c *4
257Candy Kisses
-
E4 6a ***8
258Puritan
-
E2 5c  
259Tír na nÓgE6 6a **3
260Reilig
-
E3 5c **1
261XL
-
E4 6a * 
262XL Variation Start
-
E4 6a  
263Waist Deep in Alligators
-
E4 6a *** 
264Lochlannach
-
E3 6a  
265Stop Making Sense
-
E5 6b ** 
266Talking Heads
-
E4 6a **12
267Muck Savage
-
HVS 5a 1
268Licence to Kill
-
E4 5c ** 
269Cool Hand LukeE2 5c *3
270The Hustler
-
E3 6a ***26
271Conchubair
-
E2 5c ***50
272The MaskE5 6a ***36
273Face ValueE4 6a ***59
274Flying Lizards
-
E3 6a *2
275Smashing Pumpkins
-
E6 6a * 
276Full of Energy, Ready 2 PartyE5 6a *** 
277The Stoat
-
E2 5c **9
278Heaven Can Wait
-
E4 6a ** 
279The Promised Land
-
E4 6a ***32
280The Complete ScreamE8 6b ***1
281Primal ScreamE6 6b ***19
282Blind Pew
-
E2 5b **72
283End Game
-
E5 6a *** 
284Mizen StarE2 5b ***81
285Titanic
-
E2 5c ***29
286Maiden Voyage
-
E5 6b **1
287Salango
-
E3 5c ***47
288The Fame GameE4 6a **3
289Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start)
-
E3 5c **1
290Equinox
-
E2 5b ***126
291A Bad Skin DayE7 6c *** 
292The Big SkinE8 6c *** 
 Ballycastle Descent Gully East 
294The Rathlin EffectE8 6c *** 
295Below and BeholdE7 6c *** 
296Above and BeyondE6 6b ***14
297Once You Go Black You Never Go BackE7 6c *** 
298Where the Grass is GreenE7 6c *** 
299The Wall of PreyE5 6b ***54
300The Wall of Prey (Direct Start)E5 6b *** 
301Taming the TigerE6 6b *** 
302PhilE5 6b ** 
303Way of the Jive MonkeysE7 6b ***3
304Styx
-
E7 6c *** 
305Styx (pre-collapse)
-
E5 6b ***1
306Hell's Kitchen
-
HVS 5a ***198
307Hell's Kitchen Arete
-
E6 6a ***14
308A Rite of Passage
-
E4 6b  
309Two Sides to the Story
-
E4 5c  
310ManannánE1 5b  
311Ocean Boulevard
-
E3 5c ***46
312Aoife
-
E2 5b **94
313Closing Time
-
E6 6c  
314Girona
-
VS 5a ***204
315Musarat
-
E4 6a * 
316Chieftain
-
VS 4b **153
317Taoiseach
-
VS 4c *68
318Cyclone
-
E3 5c *1
319Racing Line
-
E6 6b ** 
320Run Fast Run Free
-
E3 6a *26
321Hector Pickaxe
-
E5 6b  
322April
-
E1 5b *24
323April Variation Finish
-
E1 5b **32
324The Brat
-
VS 4b 18
325Master Chapster
-
HVS 5a 3
326Cruthin
-
S 2
 Ballycastle Descent Gully West 
328Offcuts
-
HVS 5a 5
329Dusty Rhodes
-
E2 5c *1
330Emmanuelle
-
VS 4b *4
331Soulful Eyes
-
VS 4c 1
332Andromeda
-
HVS 4c 1
333Eithne Inguba
-
E1 5b *3
334ArgosyE1 5a *3
335OdysseyVS 4c **47
336Odyssey Variation
-
E1 5b 2
337Dearg DoomVS 4c *7
338Atlantic City
-
E1 5b * 
339The Great Plains
-
E2 5c  
340Sodbuster
-
VS 4c *2
341Rumplestiltskin
-
E3 5c 1
342End of an Era
-
E2 5c  
343Pepper and Bracket
-
E2 5c  
344The Quiet Man
-
E2 5b  
 The Prow 
346Five Gears in ReverseE1 5b 1
347Jubilee
-
E1 5b  
348Pyrrhic Victory
-
E2 5b **5
349Cyprus Avenue
-
E3 6a  
350Threadneedle Street
-
E3 5c  
351Mojave
-
E3 5c  
352Thunder Road
-
E3 5c ***7
353Wagger Moon
-
E2 5c **6
354The Doffer
-
E1 5b *3
355Black Taxi
-
E1 5b *8
356Darkness
-
E2 5c **23
357Mongrel Fox
-
E1 5b **46
358Thunderhips
-
E1 5b **27
359Thunderhips Direct
-
E4 6a  
360Fireball
-
E1 5b ***130
361Midnight Cruiser
-
E1 5b ***170
362Marconi Arête
-
E4 6a * 
363Marconi
-
E3 5c ***66
364The Embankment
-
E2 5c ***81
365Railroad
-
E1 5b ***157
366Balooba
-
VS 4c 8
367Sabre Rattler
-
HVS 4c *27
368Stone Mad
-
HVS 5a 30
369Revival
-
HVS 5a 12
370Curlew
-
VS 4c 32
371Contortions
-
VS 4c 26
372Poxy Arete
-
E2 5c 1
373Contractions
-
VS 5a 25
374Foxy
-
HS 7
375Good Morning Judge
-
HVS 5a 51
376Energize
-
E1 5b ** 
377Fáth Mo Bhuartha
-
E1 5b ***124
378GBH
-
E3 6a ***91
379The Black Thief
-
VS 4b ***236
380The Fence
-
VS 4c ***189
381The Offence
-
HVS 5a 30
382Residue
-
HS 4a 1
383Jungle Rock
-
VS 5a 5
384Los Molinos
-
HS 4a 4
385La Molinero
-
HVS 5a 8
386Bramble
-
S 31
387Driodar na hAille
-
HS 14
388Simple Minds
-
E1 5b *29
389Salamander
-
VS 4c 10
 Farrangandoo 
391Gunther Grass
-
S 5
392CasablancaVS 4c 19
393Cadiz
-
E1 5c  
394Cairo
-
HVS 5a  
395Fargo
-
E3 5c  
396Belfast Cowboys
-
E4 6a  
397The Kerb
-
E3 5c ** 
398Slittery Slat
-
E2 5c **2
399Crib Pad Crack
-
E1 5b ***37
400Crib Pad Crack Direct
-
E3 6a ***8
401Pangur Bán
-
HVS 5a ***76
402Dark Corners
-
E1 5b 1
403Loosestrife
-
E1 5b 2
404AlleycatHVS 5b 1
405SamsonVS 4c *3
406LazarusVS 4c *18
407Hard RainE1 5b 4
408JezebelHVS 5b *8
409VelocetteVS 4b *5
410ProvidenceHVS 5a 1
411The SquirtVS 4b 1
412Essence
-
E3 5c  
413Unnamed Triptic
-
E2 5c  
414Big Hooothcher
-
E3 6a  
415Kor
-
E3 5c  
416Joy Division
-
E2 5c  
417Big Sky
-
E2 5c *1
418The Royal Scam
-
E1 5b  
419Moonfleet
-
HVS 5a 1
420Juggernaut
-
HVS 5a 1
421Flashover
-
E3 5c  
422Kashubia
-
HVS 5a * 
423Chicargo
-
HVS 5a  
424Speak Easy
-
HVS 5a  
425Shere Khan
-
E2 5c ** 
426Lionheart
-
E4 6a * 
427Watcher of the Skies
-
E2 6a  

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