Fair Head

Climbs 405 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 111m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland. A fine setting with views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E8. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Access notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Guidebooks
Fair Head (2014), Fairhead (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE SMALL CRAG  
2Backwoods JellyrollVS 4c *10
3Epileptic GrasshopperE1 5b *6
4Droughting AboutHS 4b 4
5Dirty ElvisVS 4c 1
6Diggers DelightE1 5b 1
7PPVS 4b *4
8The Gypsies Nicked Me SqueegeeE3 6a  
9The StumpHS 4b 2
10Voluminous OvercoatsVS 4c 1
11Skin the GoatHVS 5a 1
12Horse FeathersVS 4b *5
13Pat's RouteVS 4c *5
14Duck SoupVS 4c *2
15One Crack MindHVS 5b *12
16The Jungle LineVS 4c *10
17Second ChoiceS 4a 1
18Zoot Horn RolloVS 4c 1
19Aghaidh Na MuiceVS 4c 4
20Sexter's RouteVS 4c 7
21WinkVS 4c  
22SantanaVS 4b 3
23Screeboar the OmniscientE2 5b/c 1
24Let the Children PlayHVS 5b 3
25Peas n' CarrotsE2 5c *3
26Ton le GaoithVS 4c 9
27Easy GoS 3c 4
28Left CrackVD 8
29Central CrackVD 7
30Right CrackS 3
31Seeds of the WeedsE2 5b 1
32Clean BreakVS 4c 4
33Plan 9 from Outer SpaceHVS 5b *5
34ThunderchildE3 6b * 
35Run the WorldE4 5c  
36Jack in the GreenE1 5a *1
37A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a DiamondVS 4c 1
38Abba ZabbaVS 4b 1
39Thinking CapVS 5b 1
40Thinking Cap (direct finish)HVS 5a 2
41PhoenixVS 4c *6
42Living DollE2 5c *2
43MorriganE2 5b *1
44Snatch of the DayVS 5a *5
45FocusVS 4c *8
46Focus (alternative start)VS 5b *3
47The Wall of Jer'n Co.E5 6a 1
48JeffreyHVS 5a *6
49FenenstronHS 2
50AstazouVD 1
51A Scream of Two BatsVS 4c 3
52ScornflakeHVS 5a *11
53Liberty CapE1 6a *4
54J L SeagullHS 4b *12
55Tentative DecisionsE3 6a  
56FoxbatVS 4c 5
57Fissure FuarVS 4b *14
58ChristineHS 4a 1
59ParadigmVS 5a 1
60RubberwristHS 4b 8
61Juniper DodgeE1 5b 2
62SpinolaS 4a *32
63PitchforkS 4a 13
64Pitchfork (alternative finish)VS 4c *16
65BullrushVS 4c *29
66The StingHVS 5b *13
67MorningS 4a 4
68Greased FrighteningVD 3
69Emptying the ElsanS 3c 5
70Provisional TravestyS 4a  
71Rain RaceE2 6a  
72PrunesquallorHS 4b 2
73FlayVS 4c 13
74HejiraE3 5c *4
75FuschiaVS 4b *16
76SycamoreVS 4c *1
77Hazelnut AreteHVS 5b 1
78Hometown JamHVS 5b *14
79Lir's ScoopVS 4c *15
80Terminal EyesE3 5c * 
81GlipeVS 4c 1
 THE MIDDLE CRAG  
83Jug HandsE1 5b *1
84Solid BondE1 5b * 
85A Fringe of LeavesE3 6a ** 
86Easy SkankingE1 5c **2
87Sugar MagnoliaE1 5b **3
 BELOW THE MAIN CRAG  
89Trivial PusuitE1 5c  
90Saginaw SongS 4c  
91WisebloodE1 5c  
92OrangefieldVS 4c  
93The Lone GrooverHVS 4c  
 BINNAGAPPLE AREA  
95DecemberHVS 5a **37
96DuaisE1 5b 3
97Poor RelationE1 5b **8
98Feats Don't Fail Me NowE2 5b 2
99Raglan RoadE3 6a **6
100Raglan Road Top Pitch VariationE5 6a *** 
101Binn na gCapallE2 5c * 
102CurserE2 5b  
103DoldrumE2 5c **9
104ClarionVS 4c  
105HurricaneE2 5b ***53
106Hurricane (Direct Finish)E2 5c ***7
107Green CornerHS  
108An Empty BookE8 6b *** 
109Visual ContactE3 6b **2
110Dart Vadar LivesHVS  
111Rusty HaloE4 6a ***8
112SeremHVS  
113Toby JugE1 5b **62
114The BrasserE2 5c ***35
115SandpiperE2 5c ***38
116StriapachHVS 5a *6
117Jolly RogerE3 6a ***44
118Blade RunnerE3 5c **7
119Track of the CatE4 6a ***20
120The Dark SideE8 6c ***2
121Orange Blossom SpecialE1 5b  
122Sreang ScuabE2 5c 3
123Blood LineE3 6a  
124Earnshaw's RouteVS  
125KneewreckerHVS 5a  
126Learning to FlyE5 6a ***1
 GREY MAN'S PATH EAST  
128Night RiderE5 6a ***1
129Njold's SagaE1 5b  
130Cu UladhHVS 5a 1
131Soylent GreenE1 5b 1
132Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)E3 6b  
133Bum's RushE2 5c * 
134Magennis RouteE2 5c  
135The Unforgettable FireE1 5b 3
136The Sheltering SkyE1 5b 1
137Blood MeridianE2 5c  
138Deadly PursuitE5 6b ** 
139The Grey ManE4 5c *** 
140The RocafellaE7 6c ***1
141PacemakerE3 5c  
142Idir na RitheVS 4c 4
143AntagonistE3 6a 2
144Cumberland BluesHVS 5a 1
 GREY MAN'S PATH WEST  
146World of SuitsVS 4c 3
147CoasterHS  
148MainstreamE4 6a * 
149Child's PlayE3 5c * 
150Paralyzed PowerE6 6b **2
151Low ProfileE3 5c *2
152Power PlayE4 6a * 
153ZuluHVS 5a 1
154Burn UpHVS 5a ***83
155AbyssiniaE3 5c ***1
156The Famished RoadHVS 5a 3
157CreeperE1 5b *1
158Semaphore SignalsE4 5c **1
159KrakenE2 5b  
160Cat's MalackyE2 5c  
161SaladinE5 6b  
162ThranE2 5c  
 THE WHITE LIGHTNING AMPHITHEATRE  
164InfidelE5 6b ***2
165Black MagicE4 6a **1
166Born to RunE4 6a ***27
167Hallowe'enE4 6a ***20
168Hallowe'en AreteE4 6b ***8
169Scott's PineE4 6a  
170CrusaderE4 6a **1
171The Icarus GunE3 6a ** 
172Eat the PeachE3 6a * 
173The SlopeE3 5c  
174The BadlandsE4 6a ** 
175Day TripperE3 6a **1
176Streets of FireE3 6a ***2
177White LightningE3 5c 1
178ZeusE3 5c  
179The WeaselE2 5c 1
180SeabhacE5 6a ** 
181BrocE3 5c * 
182Shattered InnocenceE3 5c  
183NovemberHVS 5a 1
184New City AllstarsE2 5b 2
185Martin's RouteE2 5b  
186ScarecrowHVS 5a **2
 BIRD HIDE BLOCK AREA  
188Joints and JamsE2 5c  
189SamhnaHS  
190King CobraE1 5a  
191RumoursE5 6a *** 
192Baptism of FireE5 6b *1
193RavenE2 5b 3
194MasqueradeHS 4b  
195Back to the Future 8E4 6a **4
196ScorpionE3 5c ***2
197Something HorribleE3 6a 1
198Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b *2
 AN BEALACH RUNDA AREA  
200Where the Wild Things AreE5 6b ***2
201Un Jour, Peut-EtreE6 6b ***2
202An Goban SaorE1 5b *2
203The X- MenE3 6a **2
204The Wolverine FinishE4 6b  
205An Bealach RúndaE1 5b ***61
206An Bealach EileE8 6c *** 
207SiroccoE1 5b  
208Northern ExposureE5 6b ***7
209Waiting for the SunE4 6a * 
210FlashdanceE2 5b  
211Peacadh MarfachE2 5b  
212Absolute ZeroE5 6b ** 
213Give UpE4 6b ** 
214Tractors of DesireE3 5c *1
215AD 43E5 6b ** 
216Dark ForcesE3 6a ***10
217Men of KernowE5 6b * 
218Landscapes of LightE4 6a ** 
219Supermassive Black HoleE3 5c * 
 THE TERRACES  
221The Artful DodgerE2 5b **2
222Morphine and ChocolateE2 5c  
223Chapter HouseE4 6a  
224BlockbusterE2 5c ***9
225HerbivoreXS 5a 1
226The VandalsE2 5c **3
227Drag Race QueenE1 5b *2
228Silent RunningE4 5c ** 
229AifricE2 5c * 
230Easy RiderE2 5b *2
231Fired EarthE5 6b ** 
232Birth RiteE5 6a * 
233Bates's MotelE3 5c **4
234Solid MandalaE3 6a **2
235ESPXS  
 RATHLIN WALL AREA  
237ClontarfE3 5c  
238Roaring MegVS 5a **54
239Faerie StoriesE6 6b ***1
240CúchulainnE2 5c ***28
241Death or GloryE4 6a *** 
242London CallingE5 6b ** 
243VikingHVS 5a  
244Little MarthaS 4b 2
245Drowsy MaggieS 4a 2
246Buttons and BowsE4 6a ***10
247Spirited AwayE7 6b *** 
248CinnabarE2 5c *4
249Candy KissesE4 6a ***6
250PuritanE2 5c  
251Tír na nÓgE6 6a **1
252ReiligE3 5c **1
253XLE4 6a * 
254XL Variation StartE4 6a  
255Waist Deep in AlligatorsE4 6a *** 
256LochlannachE3 6a  
257Stop Making SenseE5 6b ** 
258Talking HeadsE4 6a **10
259Muck SavageHVS 5a 1
260Licence to KillE4 5c ** 
261Cool Hand LukeE2 5c *2
262The HustlerE3 6a ***21
263ConchubairE2 5c ***38
264The MaskE5 6a ***22
265Face ValueE4 6a ***44
266Flying LizardsE3 6a *2
267Smashing PumpkinsE6 6a * 
268Full of Energy, Ready 2 PartyE5 6a *** 
269The StoatE2 5c **7
270Heaven Can WaitE4 6a ** 
271The Promised LandE4 6a ***20
272The Complete ScreamE8 6b ***1
273Primal ScreamE6 6b ***11
274Blind PewE2 5b **52
275End GameE5 6a *** 
276Mizen StarE2 5b ***52
277TitanicE2 5c ***16
278Maiden VoyageE5 6b **1
279SalangoE3 5c ***39
280The Fame GameE4 6a **3
281Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start)E3 5c **1
282EquinoxE2 5b ***74
283A Bad Skin DayE7 6c *** 
284The Big SkinE8 6c *** 
 BALLYCASTLE DESCENT GULLY EAST  
286The Rathlin EffectE8 6c *** 
287Below and BeholdE7 6c *** 
288Above and BeyondE6 6b ***11
289Once You Go Black You Never Go BackE7 6c *** 
290Where the Grass is GreenE7 6c *** 
291The Wall of PreyE5 6b ***38
292The Wall of Prey (Direct Start)E5 6b *** 
293Taming the TigerE6 6b *** 
294PhilE5 6b ** 
295Way of the Jive MonkeysE7 6b ***3
296StyxE7 6c *** 
297 Styx (pre-collapse)E5 6b ***1
298Hell's KitchenHVS 5a ***122
299Hell's Kitchen AreteE6 6a ***9
300A Rite of PassageE4 6b  
301Two Sides to the StoryE4 5c  
302ManannánE1 5b  
303Ocean BoulevardE3 5c ***22
304AoifeE1 5b **57
305Closing TimeE6 6c  
306GironaVS 5a ***137
307MusaratE4 6a * 
308ChieftainVS 4b **102
309TaoiseachVS 4c *40
310CycloneE3 5c *2
311Racing LineE6 6b ** 
312Run Fast Run FreeE3 6a *12
313Hector PickaxeE5 6b  
314AprilE1 5b *20
315April Variation FinishE1 5b **21
316The BratVS 4b 15
317Master ChapsterHVS 5a 1
318CruthinS 1
 BALLYCASTLE DESCENT GULLY WEST  
320OffcutsHVS 5a 4
321Dusty RhodesE2 5c *1
322EmmanuelleVS 4b *2
323Soulful EyesVS 4c 1
324AndromedaHVS 4c  
325Eithne IngubaE1 5b *3
326ArgosyE1 5a *2
327OdysseyVS 4c **29
328Odyssey VariationE1 5b  
329Dearg DoomVS 4c *5
330Atlantic CityE1 5b * 
331The Great PlainsE2 5c  
332SodbusterVS 4c *1
333RumplestiltskinE3 5c 1
334End of an EraE2 5c  
335Pepper and BracketE2 5c  
336The Quiet ManE2 5b  
 THE PROW  
338Five Gears in ReverseE1 5b 1
339JubileeE1 5b  
340Pyrrhic VictoryE2 5b **5
341Cyprus AvenueE3 6a  
342Threadneedle StreetE3 5c  
343MojaveE3 5c  
344Thunder RoadE3 5c ***7
345Wagger MoonE2 5c **5
346The DofferE1 5b *3
347Black TaxiE1 5b *6
348DarknessE2 5c **20
349Mongrel FoxE1 5b **39
350ThunderhipsE1 5b **23
351Thunderhips DirectE4 6a  
352FireballE1 5b ***86
353Midnight CruiserE1 5b ***131
354Marconi ArêteE4 6a * 
355MarconiE3 5c ***46
356The EmbankmentE2 5c ***64
357RailroadE1 5b ***113
358BaloobaVS 4c 7
359Sabre RattlerHVS 4c *23
360Stone MadHVS 5a 25
361RevivalHVS 5a 11
362CurlewVS 4c 25
363ContortionsVS 4c 21
364Poxy AreteE2 5c 1
365ContractionsVS 5a 20
366FoxyHS 6
367Good Morning JudgeHVS 5a 40
368EnergizeE1 5b ** 
369Fáth Mo BhuarthaE1 5b ***95
370GBHE3 6a ***53
371The Black ThiefVS 4b ***181
372The FenceVS 4c ***146
373The OffenceHVS 5a 22
374ResidueHS 4a 1
375Jungle RockVS 5a 2
376Los MolinosHS 4a 4
377La MolineroHVS 5a 6
378BrambleS 24
379Driodar na hAilleHS 12
380Simple MindsE1 5b *24
381SalamanderVS 4c 7
 FARRANGANDOO  
383Gunther GrassS 4
384CasablancaVS 4c 13
385CadizE1 5c  
386CairoHVS 5a  
387FargoE3 5c  
388Belfast CowboysE4 6a  
389The KerbE3 5c ** 
390Slittery SlatE2 5c ** 
391Crib Pad CrackE1 5b ***19
392Crib Pad Crack DirectE3 6a ***8
393Pangur BánHVS 5a ***42
394Dark CornersE1 5b 1
395LoosestrifeE1 5b 1
396AlleycatHVS 5b 1
397SamsonVS 4c *3
398LazarusVS 4c *13
399Hard RainE1 5b  
400JezebelHVS 5b *2
401VelocetteVS 4b *2
402The SquirtVS 4b 1
403EssenceE3 5c  
404Unnamed TripticE2 5c  
405Big HooothcherE3 6a  
406KorE3 5c  
407Joy DivisionE2 5c  
408Big SkyE2 5c *1
409The Royal ScamE1 5b  
410MoonfleetHVS 5a 1
411JuggernautHVS 5a  
412FlashoverE3 5c  
413KashubiaHVS 5a * 
414ChicargoHVS 5a  
415Speak EasyHVS 5a  
416Shere KhanE2 5c ** 
417LionheartE4 6a * 
418Watcher of the SkiesE2 6a  
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