Climbs 416
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces N

Rainbow over Fair Head © bdupasquier

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland - a big cliff with a big atmosphere. Great views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E9. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Approach notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Small Crag 
2Backwoods Jellyroll
-
VS 4c *12
3Epileptic Grasshopper
-
E1 5b *7
4Droughting About
-
HS 4b 4
5Elvis LivesHS 4b 3
6Dirty ElvisVS 4c 1
7Diggers DelightE1 5b 1
8PP
-
VS 4b *4
9The Gypsies Nicked Me Squeegee
-
E3 6a  
10The Stump
-
HS 4b 3
11Voluminous Overcoats
-
VS 4c 3
12Skin the Goat
-
HVS 5a 1
13Downward BoundE2 5c 1
14Horse Feathers
-
VS 4b *10
15Pat's Route
-
VS 4c *18
16Duck Soup
-
VS 4c *6
17One Crack Mind
-
HVS 5b *16
18The Jungle Line
-
VS 4c *15
19Second Choice
-
S 4a 2
20Zoot Horn Rollo
-
VS 4c 3
21Aghaidh Na Muice
-
VS 4c 11
22Sexter's Route
-
VS 4c 14
23Peace through NudismVS 4b 4
24Gravy BoobyE1 5b 3
25Wink
-
VS 4c  
26Santana
-
VS 4b 7
27Screeboar the OmniscientE2 5b/c 4
28Let the Children Play
-
HVS 5b 3
29Peas n' CarrotsE2 5c *3
30Ton le Gaoith
-
VS 4c 10
31Easy Go
-
S 3c 4
32Left Crack
-
VD 15
33Quare CraicHS 4c 7
34Central Crack
-
VD 8
35Right Crack
-
S 4
36Seeds of the Weeds
-
E2 5b 2
37Clean Break
-
VS 4c 5
38Plan 9 from Outer SpaceHVS 5b *7
39Thunderchild
-
E3 6b *1
40Nobody MoveE4 6a **1
41Nobody Get HurtE4 6b **1
42Run the World
-
E4 5c  
43Jack in the Green
-
E1 5a *2
44A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a Diamond
-
VS 4c 1
45Abba Zabba
-
VS 4b 2
46Thinking Cap
-
VS 5b 1
47Thinking Cap (direct finish)
-
HVS 5a 2
48Phoenix
-
VS 4c *7
49Living Doll
-
E2 5c *2
50Morrigan
-
E2 5b *1
51Snatch of the DayVS 5a *6
52Focus
-
VS 4c *10
53Focus (alternative start)
-
VS 5b *3
54The Wall of Jer'n Co.E5 6a 1
55Jeffrey
-
HVS 5a *7
56Fenenstron
-
HS 2
57Astazou
-
VD 6
58A Scream of Two Bats
-
VS 4c 3
59Scornflake
-
HVS 5a *11
60Liberty Cap
-
E1 6a *4
61J L Seagull
-
HS 4b *14
62Tentative Decisions
-
E3 6a  
63FoxbatVS 4c 5
64Fissure FuarVS 4b *18
65Christine
-
HS 4a 1
66Paradigm
-
VS 5a 2
67RubberwristHS 4b 14
68Juniper DodgeE1 5b 2
69Spinola
-
S 4a *51
70Pitchfork
-
S 4a 18
71Pitchfork (alternative finish)
-
VS 4c *22
72Bullrush
-
VS 4c *33
73The Sting
-
HVS 5b *15
74Morning
-
S 4a 5
75Greased Frightening
-
VD 3
76Emptying the Elsan
-
S 3c 5
77Provisional Travesty
-
S 4a 1
78Rain Race
-
E2 6a  
79Prunesquallor
-
HS 4b 2
80Flay
-
VS 4c 13
81Hejira
-
E3 5c *4
82FuschiaVS 4b *18
83SycamoreVS 4c *1
84Hazelnut AreteHVS 5b 1
85Hometown Jam
-
HVS 5b *16
86Lir's Scoop
-
VS 4c *16
87Terminal Eyes
-
E3 5c *1
88Corner VariantHVS 5a 1
89Glipe
-
VS 4c 1
 The Middle Crag 
91Jug Hands
-
E1 5b *1
92Solid Bond
-
E1 5b * 
93A Fringe of Leaves
-
E3 6a ** 
94Easy Skanking
-
E1 5c **2
95Sugar Magnolia
-
E1 5b **3
 Below the Main Crag 
97Trivial Pusuit
-
E1 5c  
98Saginaw Song
-
S 4c  
99Wiseblood
-
E1 5c  
100Orangefield
-
VS 4c  
101The Lone Groover
-
HVS 4c  
 Binnagapple Area 
103Long Runs the Fox
-
E9 6c  
104December
-
HVS 5a **70
105DuaisE1 5b 6
106Poor RelationE1 5b **11
107Feats Don't Fail Me Now
-
E2 5b 2
108Raglan Road
-
E3 6a **9
109Raglan Road Top Pitch Variation
-
E5 6a *** 
110Binn na gCapall
-
E2 5c *1
111Curser
-
E2 5b  
112DoldrumE2 5c **9
113Clarion
-
VS 4c  
114Hurricane
-
E2 5b ***101
115Hurricane (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c ***20
116The Vital SparkE2 5c 5
117Green Corner
-
HS  
118An Empty BookE8 6b *** 
119Visual Contact
-
E3 6b **2
120Dart Vadar Lives
-
HVS  
121Rusty HaloE4 6a ***17
122Serem
-
HVS  
123Cake WalkE3 5c 4
124Toby Jug
-
E1 5b **90
125The Brasser
-
E2 5c ***60
126Sandpiper
-
E2 5c ***63
127StriapachHVS 5a *6
128Jolly Roger
-
E3 6a ***74
129Blade Runner
-
E3 5c **25
130Track of the CatE4 6a ***43
131The Dark Side
-
E8 6c ***2
132Orange Blossom Special
-
E1 5b  
133Sreang Scuab
-
E2 5c 3
134Blood Line
-
E3 6a  
135Earnshaw's Route
-
VS  
136Kneewrecker
-
HVS 5a  
137Learning to Fly
-
E5 6a ***1
 Grey Man's Path East 
139Night RiderE5 6a ***1
140Njold's SagaE3 5c 1
141ThorE3 5c **3
142Cu UladhHVS 5a 1
143Soylent GreenE1 5b 1
144Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)
-
E3 6b 1
145Bum's Rush
-
E2 5c * 
146Magennis Route
-
E2 5c  
147The Unforgettable Fire
-
E1 5b 3
148The Sheltering Sky
-
E1 5b 1
149Blood Meridian
-
E2 5c  
150Deadly Pursuit
-
E5 6b ** 
151The Grey Man
-
E4 5c *** 
152The Rocafella
-
E7 6c ***1
153Pacemaker
-
E3 5c 1
154Idir na Rithe
-
VS 4c 5
155Antagonist
-
E3 6a 2
156Cumberland Blues
-
HVS 5a 1
 Grey Man's Path West 
158World of Suits
-
VS 4c 3
159Coaster
-
HS  
160Mainstream
-
E4 6a * 
161Child's Play
-
E3 5c * 
162Paralyzed Power
-
E6 6b **2
163Low Profile
-
E3 5c *3
164Power Play
-
E4 6a * 
165ZuluHVS 5a 1
166Burn Up
-
E1 5a ***157
167AbyssiniaE3 5c ***1
168The Famished RoadHVS 5a 4
169CreeperE1 5b *2
170Semaphore Signals
-
E4 5c **1
171KrakenE2 5b  
172Cat's MalackyE2 5c  
173SaladinE5 6b  
174ThranE2 5c  
 The White Lightning Amphitheatre 
176InfidelE5 6b ***2
177Black Magic
-
E4 6a **1
178Born to RunE4 6a ***48
179Hallowe'enE4 6a ***28
180Hallowe'en AreteE4 6b ***15
181Scott's Pine
-
E4 6a  
182CrusaderE4 6a **4
183The Icarus Gun
-
E3 6a ** 
184Eat the Peach
-
E3 6a * 
185The Slope
-
E3 5c  
186The Badlands
-
E4 6a ** 
187Day Tripper
-
E3 6a **1
188Streets of Fire
-
E3 6a ***2
189White Lightning
-
E3 5c 1
190Zeus
-
E3 5c  
191The Weasel
-
E2 5c 1
192Seabhac
-
E5 6a ** 
193Broc
-
E3 5c * 
194Shattered Innocence
-
E3 5c  
195November
-
HVS 5a 1
196New City Allstars
-
E2 5b 2
197Martin's Route
-
E2 5b 2
198Scarecrow
-
HVS 5a **1
 Bird Hide Block Area 
200Joints and Jams
-
E2 5c  
201Samhna
-
HS  
202King Cobra
-
E1 5a  
203Rumours
-
E5 6a *** 
204Baptism of Fire
-
E5 6b *1
205RavenE2 5b 3
206Masquerade
-
HS 4b  
207Back to the Future 8E4 6a **4
208ScorpionE3 5c ***2
209Something HorribleE3 6a 1
210Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b *2
 An Bealach Runda Area 
212Where the Wild Things Are
-
E5 6b ***2
213Un Jour, Peut-EtreE6 6b ***2
214An Goban SaorE1 5b *3
215The X- MenE3 6a **8
216The Wolverine Finish
-
E4 6b  
217An Bealach RúndaE1 5b ***120
218An Bealach Eile
-
E8 6c *** 
219Sirocco
-
E1 5b  
220Northern ExposureE5 6b ***17
221Waiting for the SunE4 6a * 
222FlashdanceE2 5b  
223Peacadh MarfachE2 5b  
224Absolute ZeroE5 6b ** 
225Give UpE4 6b ** 
226Tractors of Desire
-
E3 5c *1
227AD 43
-
E5 6b ** 
228Dark ForcesE3 6a ***24
229Men of Kernow
-
E5 6b * 
230Landscapes of Light
-
E4 6a ** 
231Supermassive Black Hole
-
E3 5c * 
 The Terraces 
233The Artful DodgerE2 5b **3
234Morphine and Chocolate
-
E2 5c  
235Chapter House
-
E4 6a  
236BlockbusterE2 5c ***29
237HerbivoreXS 5a 1
238The Vandals
-
E2 5c **3
239Drag Race Queen
-
E1 5b *3
240Silent Running
-
E4 5c **1
241AifricE2 5c * 
242Easy RiderE2 5b *2
243Fired Earth
-
E5 6b ** 
244Birth Rite
-
E5 6a * 
245Bates's MotelE3 5c **4
246Solid MandalaE3 6a **2
247ESPXS  
 Rathlin Wall Area 
249ClontarfE3 5c  
250Roaring MegVS 5a **86
251Faerie Stories
-
E6 6b ***1
252CúchulainnE2 5c ***59
253Death or Glory
-
E4 6a *** 
254London Calling
-
E5 6b ** 
255VikingHVS 5a  
256Little Martha
-
S 4b 2
257Drowsy Maggie
-
S 4a 2
258Buttons and Bows
-
E4 6a ***16
259Spirited AwayE7 6b *** 
260Cinnabar
-
E2 5c *4
261Candy Kisses
-
E4 6a ***14
262Puritan
-
E2 5c  
263Tír na nÓgE6 6a **3
264Reilig
-
E3 5c **1
265XL
-
E4 6a * 
266XL Variation Start
-
E4 6a  
267Waist Deep in Alligators
-
E4 6a ***4
268Lochlannach
-
E3 6a  
269Stop Making Sense
-
E5 6b ** 
270Talking Heads
-
E4 6a **18
271Muck Savage
-
HVS 5a 1
272Licence to Kill
-
E4 5c ** 
273Cool Hand LukeE2 5c *3
274The Hustler
-
E3 6a ***35
275Conchubair
-
E2 5c ***64
276The MaskE5 6a ***36
277Face ValueE4 6a ***83
278Flying Lizards
-
E3 6a *2
279Smashing Pumpkins
-
E6 6a * 
280Full of Energy, Ready 2 PartyE5 6a ***1
281The Stoat
-
E2 5c **9
282Heaven Can Wait
-
E4 6a ** 
283The Promised Land
-
E4 6a ***32
284The Complete ScreamE8 6b ***1
285Primal ScreamE6 6b ***19
286Blind Pew
-
E2 5b **89
287End Game
-
E5 6a *** 
288Mizen StarE2 5b ***85
289Titanic
-
E2 5c ***39
290Maiden Voyage
-
E5 6b **1
291Salango
-
E3 5c ***62
292The Fame GameE4 6a **3
293Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start)
-
E3 5c **1
294EquinoxE2 5b ***137
295A Bad Skin DayE7 6c ***1
296The Big SkinE8 6c *** 
 Ballycastle Descent Gully East 
298The Rathlin EffectE8 6c *** 
299Below and BeholdE7 6c *** 
300Above and BeyondE6 6b ***14
301Once You Go Black You Never Go BackE7 6c *** 
302Where the Grass is GreenE7 6c *** 
303The Wall of PreyE5 6b ***77
304The Wall of Prey (Direct Start)E5 6b *** 
305Taming the TigerE6 6b *** 
306PhilE5 6b ** 
307Way of the Jive MonkeysE7 6b ***3
308Styx
-
E7 6c *** 
309Styx (pre-collapse)
-
E5 6b ***1
310Hell's Kitchen
-
HVS 5a ***214
311Hell's Kitchen Arete
-
E6 6a ***18
312A Rite of Passage
-
E4 6b  
313Two Sides to the Story
-
E4 5c  
314ManannánE1 5b  
315Ocean Boulevard
-
E3 5c ***46
316Aoife
-
E2 5b **98
317Closing Time
-
E6 6c  
318Girona
-
VS 5a ***231
319Musarat
-
E4 6a * 
320Chieftain
-
VS 4b **164
321Taoiseach
-
VS 4c *80
322Cyclone
-
E3 5c *1
323Racing Line
-
E6 6b ** 
324Run Fast Run Free
-
E3 6a *28
325Hector Pickaxe
-
E5 6b  
326April
-
E1 5b *25
327April Variation Finish
-
E1 5b **37
328The Brat
-
VS 4b 19
329Master Chapster
-
HVS 5a 3
330Cruthin
-
S 2
 Ballycastle Descent Gully West 
332Offcuts
-
HVS 5a 5
333Dusty Rhodes
-
E2 5c *1
334Emmanuelle
-
VS 4b *5
335Soulful Eyes
-
VS 4c 1
336Andromeda
-
HVS 4c 1
337Eithne Inguba
-
E1 5b *3
338ArgosyE1 5a *3
339OdysseyVS 4c **51
340Odyssey Variation
-
E1 5b 2
341Dearg DoomVS 4c *7
342Atlantic City
-
E1 5b * 
343The Great Plains
-
E2 5c  
344Sodbuster
-
VS 4c *2
345Rumplestiltskin
-
E3 5c 1
346End of an Era
-
E2 5c  
347Pepper and Bracket
-
E2 5c  
348The Quiet Man
-
E2 5b  
 The Prow 
350Five Gears in ReverseE1 5b 1
351Jubilee
-
E1 5b  
352Pyrrhic Victory
-
E2 5b **5
353Cyprus Avenue
-
E3 6a  
354Threadneedle Street
-
E3 5c  
355Mojave
-
E3 5c  
356Thunder Road
-
E3 5c ***7
357Wagger Moon
-
E2 5c **8
358The Doffer
-
E1 5b *3
359Black Taxi
-
E1 5b *11
360Darkness
-
E2 5c **23
361Mongrel Fox
-
E1 5b **56
362Thunderhips
-
E1 5b **37
363Thunderhips Direct
-
E4 6a  
364Fireball
-
E1 5b ***144
365Midnight Cruiser
-
E1 5b ***213
366Marconi Arête
-
E4 6a * 
367Marconi
-
E3 5c ***83
368The Embankment
-
E2 5c ***96
369Railroad
-
E1 5b ***176
370Balooba
-
VS 4c 14
371Sabre Rattler
-
HVS 4c *27
372Stone Mad
-
HVS 5a 32
373Revival
-
HVS 5a 16
374Curlew
-
VS 4c 37
375Contortions
-
VS 4c 29
376Poxy Arete
-
E2 5c 1
377Contractions
-
VS 5a 29
378Foxy
-
HS 7
379Good Morning Judge
-
HVS 5a 59
380Energize
-
E1 5b ** 
381Fáth Mo Bhuartha
-
E1 5b ***144
382GBH
-
E3 6a ***92
383The Black Thief
-
VS 4b ***267
384The Fence
-
VS 4c ***214
385The Offence
-
HVS 5a 41
386Residue
-
HS 4a 1
387Jungle Rock
-
VS 5a 5
388Los Molinos
-
HS 4a 4
389La Molinero
-
HVS 5a 9
390Bramble
-
S 32
391Driodar na hAille
-
HS 15
392Simple Minds
-
E1 5b *31
393Salamander
-
VS 4c 10
 Farrangandoo 
395Gunther Grass
-
S 5
396CasablancaVS 4c 22
397Cadiz
-
E1 5c  
398Cairo
-
HVS 5a  
399Fargo
-
E3 5c  
400Belfast Cowboys
-
E4 6a  
401The Kerb
-
E3 5c ** 
402Slittery Slat
-
E2 5c **2
403Crib Pad Crack
-
E1 5b ***41
404Crib Pad Crack Direct
-
E3 6a ***9
405Pangur Bán
-
HVS 5a ***81
406Dark Corners
-
E1 5b 1
407Loosestrife
-
E1 5b 2
408AlleycatHVS 5b 1
409SamsonVS 4c *3
410LazarusVS 4c *19
411Hard RainE1 5b 4
412JezebelHVS 5b *9
413VelocetteVS 4b *5
414ProvidenceHVS 5a 1
415The SquirtVS 4b 1
416Essence
-
E3 5c  
417Unnamed Triptic
-
E2 5c  
418Big Hooothcher
-
E3 6a  
419Kor
-
E3 5c  
420Joy Division
-
E2 5c  
421Big Sky
-
E2 5c *1
422The Royal Scam
-
E1 5b  
423Moonfleet
-
HVS 5a 1
424Juggernaut
-
HVS 5a 1
425Flashover
-
E3 5c  
426Kashubia
-
HVS 5a * 
427Chicargo
-
HVS 5a  
428Speak Easy
-
HVS 5a  
429Shere Khan
-
E2 5c ** 
430Lionheart
-
E4 6a * 
431Watcher of the Skies
-
E2 6a  

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