Fair Head

Climbs 409 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 111m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland. A fine setting with views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E8. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Approach notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Fair Head (2014), Fairhead (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Backwoods JellyrollVS 4c *10
3Epileptic GrasshopperE1 5b *6
4Droughting AboutHS 4b 4
5Dirty ElvisVS 4c 1
6Diggers DelightE1 5b 1
7PPVS 4b *4
8The Gypsies Nicked Me SqueegeeE3 6a  
9The StumpHS 4b 2
10Voluminous OvercoatsVS 4c 1
11Skin the GoatHVS 5a 1
12Horse FeathersVS 4b *7
13Pat's RouteVS 4c *7
14Duck SoupVS 4c *2
15One Crack MindHVS 5b *12
16The Jungle LineVS 4c *10
17Second ChoiceS 4a 1
18Zoot Horn RolloVS 4c 1
19Aghaidh Na MuiceVS 4c 8
20Sexter's RouteVS 4c 8
21Peace through NudismVS 4b 3
22Gravy BoobyE1 5b 1
23WinkVS 4c  
24SantanaVS 4b 4
25Screeboar the OmniscientE2 5b/c 3
26Let the Children PlayHVS 5b 3
27Peas n' CarrotsE2 5c *3
28Ton le GaoithVS 4c 9
29Easy GoS 3c 4
30Left CrackVD 9
31Quare CraicVS 5a 1
32Central CrackVD 7
33Right CrackS 3
34Seeds of the WeedsE2 5b 1
35Clean BreakVS 4c 4
36Plan 9 from Outer SpaceHVS 5b *5
37ThunderchildE3 6b * 
38Run the WorldE4 5c  
39Jack in the GreenE1 5a *1
40A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a DiamondVS 4c 1
41Abba ZabbaVS 4b 1
42Thinking CapVS 5b 1
43Thinking Cap (direct finish)HVS 5a 2
44PhoenixVS 4c *6
45Living DollE2 5c *2
46MorriganE2 5b *1
47Snatch of the DayVS 5a *5
48FocusVS 4c *8
49Focus (alternative start)VS 5b *3
50The Wall of Jer'n Co.E5 6a 1
51JeffreyHVS 5a *6
52FenenstronHS 2
53AstazouVD 1
54A Scream of Two BatsVS 4c 3
55ScornflakeHVS 5a *11
56Liberty CapE1 6a *4
57J L SeagullHS 4b *12
58Tentative DecisionsE3 6a  
59FoxbatVS 4c 5
60Fissure FuarVS 4b *14
61ChristineHS 4a 1
62ParadigmVS 5a 2
63RubberwristHS 4b 8
64Juniper DodgeE1 5b 2
65SpinolaS 4a *33
66PitchforkS 4a 14
67Pitchfork (alternative finish)VS 4c *16
68BullrushVS 4c *29
69The StingHVS 5b *13
70MorningS 4a 4
71Greased FrighteningVD 3
72Emptying the ElsanS 3c 5
73Provisional TravestyS 4a  
74Rain RaceE2 6a  
75PrunesquallorHS 4b 2
76FlayVS 4c 13
77HejiraE3 5c *4
78FuschiaVS 4b *18
79SycamoreVS 4c *1
80Hazelnut AreteHVS 5b 1
81Hometown JamHVS 5b *14
82Lir's ScoopVS 4c *15
83Terminal EyesE3 5c * 
84Corner VariantHVS 5a 1
85GlipeVS 4c 1
87Jug HandsE1 5b *1
88Solid BondE1 5b * 
89A Fringe of LeavesE3 6a ** 
90Easy SkankingE1 5c **2
91Sugar MagnoliaE1 5b **3
93Trivial PusuitE1 5c  
94Saginaw SongS 4c  
95WisebloodE1 5c  
96OrangefieldVS 4c  
97The Lone GrooverHVS 4c  
99Long Runs the FoxE9 6c  
100DecemberHVS 5a **40
101DuaisE1 5b 4
102Poor RelationE1 5b **9
103Feats Don't Fail Me NowE2 5b 2
104Raglan RoadE3 6a **7
105Raglan Road Top Pitch VariationE5 6a *** 
106Binn na gCapallE2 5c * 
107CurserE2 5b  
108DoldrumE2 5c **9
109ClarionVS 4c  
110HurricaneE2 5b ***59
111Hurricane (Direct Finish)E2 5c ***10
112Green CornerHS  
113An Empty BookE8 6b *** 
114Visual ContactE3 6b **2
115Dart Vadar LivesHVS  
116Rusty HaloE4 6a ***8
118Cake WalkE3 5c 2
119Toby JugE1 5b **64
120The BrasserE2 5c ***39
121SandpiperE2 5c ***43
122StriapachHVS 5a *6
123Jolly RogerE3 6a ***44
124Blade RunnerE3 5c **9
125Track of the CatE4 6a ***24
126The Dark SideE8 6c ***2
127Orange Blossom SpecialE1 5b  
128Sreang ScuabE2 5c 3
129Blood LineE3 6a  
130Earnshaw's RouteVS  
131KneewreckerHVS 5a  
132Learning to FlyE5 6a ***1
134Night RiderE5 6a ***1
135Njold's SagaE1 5b  
136Cu UladhHVS 5a 1
137Soylent GreenE1 5b 1
138Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)E3 6b  
139Bum's RushE2 5c * 
140Magennis RouteE2 5c  
141The Unforgettable FireE1 5b 3
142The Sheltering SkyE1 5b 1
143Blood MeridianE2 5c  
144Deadly PursuitE5 6b ** 
145The Grey ManE4 5c *** 
146The RocafellaE7 6c ***1
147PacemakerE3 5c  
148Idir na RitheVS 4c 4
149AntagonistE3 6a 2
150Cumberland BluesHVS 5a 1
152World of SuitsVS 4c 3
154MainstreamE4 6a * 
155Child's PlayE3 5c * 
156Paralyzed PowerE6 6b **2
157Low ProfileE3 5c *2
158Power PlayE4 6a * 
159ZuluHVS 5a 1
160Burn UpE1 5a ***88
161AbyssiniaE3 5c ***1
162The Famished RoadHVS 5a 3
163CreeperE1 5b *1
164Semaphore SignalsE4 5c **1
165KrakenE2 5b  
166Cat's MalackyE2 5c  
167SaladinE5 6b  
168ThranE2 5c  
170InfidelE5 6b ***2
171Black MagicE4 6a **1
172Born to RunE4 6a ***28
173Hallowe'enE4 6a ***20
174Hallowe'en AreteE4 6b ***8
175Scott's PineE4 6a  
176CrusaderE4 6a **1
177The Icarus GunE3 6a ** 
178Eat the PeachE3 6a * 
179The SlopeE3 5c  
180The BadlandsE4 6a ** 
181Day TripperE3 6a **1
182Streets of FireE3 6a ***2
183White LightningE3 5c 1
184ZeusE3 5c  
185The WeaselE2 5c 1
186SeabhacE5 6a ** 
187BrocE3 5c * 
188Shattered InnocenceE3 5c  
189NovemberHVS 5a 1
190New City AllstarsE2 5b 2
191Martin's RouteE2 5b  
192ScarecrowHVS 5a **1
194Joints and JamsE2 5c  
196King CobraE1 5a  
197RumoursE5 6a *** 
198Baptism of FireE5 6b *1
199RavenE2 5b 3
200MasqueradeHS 4b  
201Back to the Future 8E4 6a **4
202ScorpionE3 5c ***2
203Something HorribleE3 6a 1
204Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b *2
206Where the Wild Things AreE5 6b ***2
207Un Jour, Peut-EtreE6 6b ***2
208An Goban SaorE1 5b *2
209The X- MenE3 6a **2
210The Wolverine FinishE4 6b  
211An Bealach RúndaE1 5b ***64
212An Bealach EileE8 6c *** 
213SiroccoE1 5b  
214Northern ExposureE5 6b ***7
215Waiting for the SunE4 6a * 
216FlashdanceE2 5b  
217Peacadh MarfachE2 5b  
218Absolute ZeroE5 6b ** 
219Give UpE4 6b ** 
220Tractors of DesireE3 5c *1
221AD 43E5 6b ** 
222Dark ForcesE3 6a ***10
223Men of KernowE5 6b * 
224Landscapes of LightE4 6a ** 
225Supermassive Black HoleE3 5c * 
227The Artful DodgerE2 5b **2
228Morphine and ChocolateE2 5c  
229Chapter HouseE4 6a  
230BlockbusterE2 5c ***11
231HerbivoreXS 5a 1
232The VandalsE2 5c **3
233Drag Race QueenE1 5b *2
234Silent RunningE4 5c ** 
235AifricE2 5c * 
236Easy RiderE2 5b *2
237Fired EarthE5 6b ** 
238Birth RiteE5 6a * 
239Bates's MotelE3 5c **4
240Solid MandalaE3 6a **2
243ClontarfE3 5c  
244Roaring MegVS 5a **54
245Faerie StoriesE6 6b ***1
246CúchulainnE2 5c ***33
247Death or GloryE4 6a *** 
248London CallingE5 6b ** 
249VikingHVS 5a  
250Little MarthaS 4b 2
251Drowsy MaggieS 4a 2
252Buttons and BowsE4 6a ***10
253Spirited AwayE7 6b *** 
254CinnabarE2 5c *4
255Candy KissesE4 6a ***6
256PuritanE2 5c  
257Tír na nÓgE6 6a **1
258ReiligE3 5c **1
259XLE4 6a * 
260XL Variation StartE4 6a  
261Waist Deep in AlligatorsE4 6a *** 
262LochlannachE3 6a  
263Stop Making SenseE5 6b ** 
264Talking HeadsE4 6a **10
265Muck SavageHVS 5a 1
266Licence to KillE4 5c ** 
267Cool Hand LukeE2 5c *2
268The HustlerE3 6a ***25
269ConchubairE2 5c ***41
270The MaskE5 6a ***24
271Face ValueE4 6a ***44
272Flying LizardsE3 6a *2
273Smashing PumpkinsE6 6a * 
274Full of Energy, Ready 2 PartyE5 6a *** 
275The StoatE2 5c **7
276Heaven Can WaitE4 6a ** 
277The Promised LandE4 6a ***20
278The Complete ScreamE8 6b ***1
279Primal ScreamE6 6b ***12
280Blind PewE2 5b **54
281End GameE5 6a *** 
282Mizen StarE2 5b ***53
283TitanicE2 5c ***18
284Maiden VoyageE5 6b **1
285SalangoE3 5c ***41
286The Fame GameE4 6a **3
287Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start)E3 5c **1
288EquinoxE2 5b ***82
289A Bad Skin DayE7 6c *** 
290The Big SkinE8 6c *** 
292The Rathlin EffectE8 6c *** 
293Below and BeholdE7 6c *** 
294Above and BeyondE6 6b ***12
295Once You Go Black You Never Go BackE7 6c *** 
296Where the Grass is GreenE7 6c *** 
297The Wall of PreyE5 6b ***43
298The Wall of Prey (Direct Start)E5 6b *** 
299Taming the TigerE6 6b *** 
300PhilE5 6b ** 
301Way of the Jive MonkeysE7 6b ***3
302StyxE7 6c *** 
303Styx (pre-collapse)E5 6b ***1
304Hell's KitchenHVS 5a ***133
305Hell's Kitchen AreteE6 6a ***9
306A Rite of PassageE4 6b  
307Two Sides to the StoryE4 5c  
308ManannánE1 5b  
309Ocean BoulevardE3 5c ***22
310AoifeE1 5b **59
311Closing TimeE6 6c  
312GironaVS 5a ***150
313MusaratE4 6a * 
314ChieftainVS 4b **112
315TaoiseachVS 4c *48
316CycloneE3 5c *2
317Racing LineE6 6b ** 
318Run Fast Run FreeE3 6a *14
319Hector PickaxeE5 6b  
320AprilE1 5b *20
321April Variation FinishE1 5b **21
322The BratVS 4b 15
323Master ChapsterHVS 5a 3
324CruthinS 1
326OffcutsHVS 5a 4
327Dusty RhodesE2 5c *1
328EmmanuelleVS 4b *2
329Soulful EyesVS 4c 1
330AndromedaHVS 4c  
331Eithne IngubaE1 5b *3
332ArgosyE1 5a *2
333OdysseyVS 4c **35
334Odyssey VariationE1 5b 2
335Dearg DoomVS 4c *5
336Atlantic CityE1 5b * 
337The Great PlainsE2 5c  
338SodbusterVS 4c *1
339RumplestiltskinE3 5c 1
340End of an EraE2 5c  
341Pepper and BracketE2 5c  
342The Quiet ManE2 5b  
344Five Gears in ReverseE1 5b 1
345JubileeE1 5b  
346Pyrrhic VictoryE2 5b **5
347Cyprus AvenueE3 6a  
348Threadneedle StreetE3 5c  
349MojaveE3 5c  
350Thunder RoadE3 5c ***7
351Wagger MoonE2 5c **6
352The DofferE1 5b *3
353Black TaxiE1 5b *7
354DarknessE2 5c **21
355Mongrel FoxE1 5b **41
356ThunderhipsE1 5b **25
357Thunderhips DirectE4 6a  
358FireballE1 5b ***93
359Midnight CruiserE1 5b ***138
360Marconi ArêteE4 6a * 
361MarconiE3 5c ***51
362The EmbankmentE2 5c ***70
363RailroadE1 5b ***118
364BaloobaVS 4c 7
365Sabre RattlerHVS 4c *24
366Stone MadHVS 5a 25
367RevivalHVS 5a 11
368CurlewVS 4c 27
369ContortionsVS 4c 22
370Poxy AreteE2 5c 1
371ContractionsVS 5a 21
372FoxyHS 6
373Good Morning JudgeHVS 5a 42
374EnergizeE1 5b ** 
375Fáth Mo BhuarthaE1 5b ***101
376GBHE3 6a ***61
377The Black ThiefVS 4b ***187
378The FenceVS 4c ***149
379The OffenceHVS 5a 22
380ResidueHS 4a 1
381Jungle RockVS 5a 2
382Los MolinosHS 4a 4
383La MolineroHVS 5a 7
384BrambleS 25
385Driodar na hAilleHS 12
386Simple MindsE1 5b *24
387SalamanderVS 4c 7
389Gunther GrassS 4
390CasablancaVS 4c 13
391CadizE1 5c  
392CairoHVS 5a  
393FargoE3 5c  
394Belfast CowboysE4 6a  
395The KerbE3 5c ** 
396Slittery SlatE2 5c ** 
397Crib Pad CrackE1 5b ***20
398Crib Pad Crack DirectE3 6a ***8
399Pangur BánHVS 5a ***43
400Dark CornersE1 5b 1
401LoosestrifeE1 5b 1
402AlleycatHVS 5b 1
403SamsonVS 4c *3
404LazarusVS 4c *14
405Hard RainE1 5b 2
406JezebelHVS 5b *4
407VelocetteVS 4b *2
408The SquirtVS 4b 1
409EssenceE3 5c  
410Unnamed TripticE2 5c  
411Big HooothcherE3 6a  
412KorE3 5c  
413Joy DivisionE2 5c  
414Big SkyE2 5c *1
415The Royal ScamE1 5b  
416MoonfleetHVS 5a 1
417JuggernautHVS 5a  
418FlashoverE3 5c  
419KashubiaHVS 5a * 
420ChicargoHVS 5a  
421Speak EasyHVS 5a  
422Shere KhanE2 5c ** 
423LionheartE4 6a * 
424Watcher of the SkiesE2 6a  
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