Climbs 409
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces N

David "Nails" Ewing feeling the pressure of Fair Head! :) © www.pedropimentel.net

Crag features

Considered by many as one of the best crags in Britain and Ireland - a big cliff with a big atmosphere. Great views to Rathlin Island and Scotland, and outstanding routes at every grade from VS to E9. From E2-E5 there are no fewer than ten *** routes at each grade. Large sections remain unclimbed.

Approach notes

There are a few different parking options depending on which part of the crag you're aiming for. Sean's farm car park at the Ballycastle end asks for a donation, while the signposted National Trust car park is a better option for routes approached by the Grey Man's Path. The approach walk to the top of the main crag from either is about 15 minutes. The eastern end of the crag can be approached from the Murlough Bay car park. The two descent options to the base of the crag on foot are by the Ballycastle Descent Gully or Grey Man's Path. Walking along the base of the crag for any distance is not recommended (it is possible but time-consuming and seriously unpleasant), so for routes in the middle a 100m abseil rope is handy.

Guidebooks

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Small Crag 
2Backwoods Jellyroll
-
VS 4c *10
3Epileptic Grasshopper
-
E1 5b *7
4Droughting About
-
HS 4b 4
5Dirty Elvis
-
VS 4c 1
6Diggers Delight
-
E1 5b 1
7PP
-
VS 4b *4
8The Gypsies Nicked Me Squeegee
-
E3 6a  
9The Stump
-
HS 4b 2
10Voluminous Overcoats
-
VS 4c 1
11Skin the Goat
-
HVS 5a 1
12Horse Feathers
-
VS 4b *8
13Pat's Route
-
VS 4c *8
14Duck Soup
-
VS 4c *4
15One Crack Mind
-
HVS 5b *15
16The Jungle Line
-
VS 4c *13
17Second Choice
-
S 4a 1
18Zoot Horn Rollo
-
VS 4c 1
19Aghaidh Na Muice
-
VS 4c 8
20Sexter's Route
-
VS 4c 10
21Peace through NudismVS 4b 3
22Gravy BoobyE1 5b 1
23Wink
-
VS 4c  
24Santana
-
VS 4b 5
25Screeboar the OmniscientE2 5b/c 3
26Let the Children Play
-
HVS 5b 3
27Peas n' CarrotsE2 5c *3
28Ton le Gaoith
-
VS 4c 10
29Easy Go
-
S 3c 4
30Left Crack
-
VD 9
31Quare CraicHS 4c 4
32Central Crack
-
VD 7
33Right Crack
-
S 3
34Seeds of the Weeds
-
E2 5b 1
35Clean Break
-
VS 4c 4
36Plan 9 from Outer SpaceHVS 5b *6
37Thunderchild
-
E3 6b * 
38Run the World
-
E4 5c  
39Jack in the Green
-
E1 5a *1
40A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a Diamond
-
VS 4c 1
41Abba Zabba
-
VS 4b 1
42Thinking Cap
-
VS 5b 1
43Thinking Cap (direct finish)
-
HVS 5a 2
44Phoenix
-
VS 4c *6
45Living Doll
-
E2 5c *2
46Morrigan
-
E2 5b *1
47Snatch of the DayVS 5a *5
48Focus
-
VS 4c *10
49Focus (alternative start)
-
VS 5b *3
50The Wall of Jer'n Co.E5 6a 1
51Jeffrey
-
HVS 5a *7
52Fenenstron
-
HS 2
53Astazou
-
VD 1
54A Scream of Two Bats
-
VS 4c 3
55Scornflake
-
HVS 5a *11
56Liberty Cap
-
E1 6a *4
57J L Seagull
-
HS 4b *12
58Tentative Decisions
-
E3 6a  
59FoxbatVS 4c 5
60Fissure FuarVS 4b *16
61Christine
-
HS 4a 1
62Paradigm
-
VS 5a 2
63RubberwristHS 4b 8
64Juniper DodgeE1 5b 2
65Spinola
-
S 4a *35
66Pitchfork
-
S 4a 15
67Pitchfork (alternative finish)
-
VS 4c *16
68Bullrush
-
VS 4c *30
69The Sting
-
HVS 5b *13
70Morning
-
S 4a 4
71Greased Frightening
-
VD 3
72Emptying the Elsan
-
S 3c 5
73Provisional Travesty
-
S 4a  
74Rain Race
-
E2 6a  
75Prunesquallor
-
HS 4b 2
76Flay
-
VS 4c 13
77Hejira
-
E3 5c *4
78FuschiaVS 4b *18
79SycamoreVS 4c *1
80Hazelnut AreteHVS 5b 1
81Hometown Jam
-
HVS 5b *14
82Lir's Scoop
-
VS 4c *15
83Terminal Eyes
-
E3 5c * 
84Corner VariantHVS 5a 1
85Glipe
-
VS 4c 1
 The Middle Crag 
87Jug Hands
-
E1 5b *1
88Solid Bond
-
E1 5b * 
89A Fringe of Leaves
-
E3 6a ** 
90Easy Skanking
-
E1 5c **2
91Sugar Magnolia
-
E1 5b **3
 Below the Main Crag 
93Trivial Pusuit
-
E1 5c  
94Saginaw Song
-
S 4c  
95Wiseblood
-
E1 5c  
96Orangefield
-
VS 4c  
97The Lone Groover
-
HVS 4c  
 Binnagapple Area 
99Long Runs the Fox
-
E9 6c  
100December
-
HVS 5a **57
101DuaisE1 5b 4
102Poor RelationE1 5b **9
103Feats Don't Fail Me Now
-
E2 5b 2
104Raglan Road
-
E3 6a **7
105Raglan Road Top Pitch Variation
-
E5 6a *** 
106Binn na gCapall
-
E2 5c *1
107Curser
-
E2 5b  
108DoldrumE2 5c **9
109Clarion
-
VS 4c  
110Hurricane
-
E2 5b ***61
111Hurricane (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c ***10
112Green Corner
-
HS  
113An Empty BookE8 6b *** 
114Visual Contact
-
E3 6b **2
115Dart Vadar Lives
-
HVS  
116Rusty HaloE4 6a ***8
117Serem
-
HVS  
118Cake WalkE3 5c 4
119Toby Jug
-
E1 5b **79
120The Brasser
-
E2 5c ***54
121Sandpiper
-
E2 5c ***48
122StriapachHVS 5a *6
123Jolly Roger
-
E3 6a ***45
124Blade Runner
-
E3 5c **18
125Track of the CatE4 6a ***24
126The Dark Side
-
E8 6c ***2
127Orange Blossom Special
-
E1 5b  
128Sreang Scuab
-
E2 5c 3
129Blood Line
-
E3 6a  
130Earnshaw's Route
-
VS  
131Kneewrecker
-
HVS 5a  
132Learning to Fly
-
E5 6a ***1
 Grey Man's Path East 
134Night RiderE5 6a ***1
135Njold's SagaE1 5b  
136Cu UladhHVS 5a 1
137Soylent GreenE1 5b 1
138Soylent Green (Top Pitch Variation)
-
E3 6b  
139Bum's Rush
-
E2 5c * 
140Magennis Route
-
E2 5c  
141The Unforgettable Fire
-
E1 5b 3
142The Sheltering Sky
-
E1 5b 1
143Blood Meridian
-
E2 5c  
144Deadly Pursuit
-
E5 6b ** 
145The Grey Man
-
E4 5c *** 
146The Rocafella
-
E7 6c ***1
147Pacemaker
-
E3 5c  
148Idir na Rithe
-
VS 4c 5
149Antagonist
-
E3 6a 2
150Cumberland Blues
-
HVS 5a 1
 Grey Man's Path West 
152World of Suits
-
VS 4c 3
153Coaster
-
HS  
154Mainstream
-
E4 6a * 
155Child's Play
-
E3 5c * 
156Paralyzed Power
-
E6 6b **2
157Low Profile
-
E3 5c *2
158Power Play
-
E4 6a * 
159ZuluHVS 5a 1
160Burn Up
-
E1 5a ***99
161AbyssiniaE3 5c ***1
162The Famished RoadHVS 5a 3
163CreeperE1 5b *2
164Semaphore Signals
-
E4 5c **1
165KrakenE2 5b  
166Cat's MalackyE2 5c  
167SaladinE5 6b  
168ThranE2 5c  
 The White Lightning Amphitheatre 
170InfidelE5 6b ***2
171Black Magic
-
E4 6a **1
172Born to RunE4 6a ***29
173Hallowe'enE4 6a ***21
174Hallowe'en AreteE4 6b ***8
175Scott's Pine
-
E4 6a  
176CrusaderE4 6a **1
177The Icarus Gun
-
E3 6a ** 
178Eat the Peach
-
E3 6a * 
179The Slope
-
E3 5c  
180The Badlands
-
E4 6a ** 
181Day Tripper
-
E3 6a **1
182Streets of Fire
-
E3 6a ***2
183White Lightning
-
E3 5c 1
184Zeus
-
E3 5c  
185The Weasel
-
E2 5c 1
186Seabhac
-
E5 6a ** 
187Broc
-
E3 5c * 
188Shattered Innocence
-
E3 5c  
189November
-
HVS 5a 1
190New City Allstars
-
E2 5b 2
191Martin's Route
-
E2 5b  
192Scarecrow
-
HVS 5a **1
 Bird Hide Block Area 
194Joints and Jams
-
E2 5c  
195Samhna
-
HS  
196King Cobra
-
E1 5a  
197Rumours
-
E5 6a *** 
198Baptism of Fire
-
E5 6b *1
199RavenE2 5b 3
200Masquerade
-
HS 4b  
201Back to the Future 8E4 6a **4
202ScorpionE3 5c ***2
203Something HorribleE3 6a 1
204Walk on the Wild SideE1 5b *2
 An Bealach Runda Area 
206Where the Wild Things Are
-
E5 6b ***2
207Un Jour, Peut-EtreE6 6b ***2
208An Goban SaorE1 5b *2
209The X- MenE3 6a **2
210The Wolverine Finish
-
E4 6b  
211An Bealach RúndaE1 5b ***66
212An Bealach Eile
-
E8 6c *** 
213Sirocco
-
E1 5b  
214Northern ExposureE5 6b ***7
215Waiting for the SunE4 6a * 
216FlashdanceE2 5b  
217Peacadh MarfachE2 5b  
218Absolute ZeroE5 6b ** 
219Give UpE4 6b ** 
220Tractors of Desire
-
E3 5c *1
221AD 43
-
E5 6b ** 
222Dark ForcesE3 6a ***10
223Men of Kernow
-
E5 6b * 
224Landscapes of Light
-
E4 6a ** 
225Supermassive Black Hole
-
E3 5c * 
 The Terraces 
227The Artful DodgerE2 5b **3
228Morphine and Chocolate
-
E2 5c  
229Chapter House
-
E4 6a  
230BlockbusterE2 5c ***12
231HerbivoreXS 5a 1
232The Vandals
-
E2 5c **3
233Drag Race Queen
-
E1 5b *2
234Silent Running
-
E4 5c ** 
235AifricE2 5c * 
236Easy RiderE2 5b *2
237Fired Earth
-
E5 6b ** 
238Birth Rite
-
E5 6a * 
239Bates's MotelE3 5c **4
240Solid MandalaE3 6a **2
241ESPXS  
 Rathlin Wall Area 
243ClontarfE3 5c  
244Roaring MegVS 5a **60
245Faerie Stories
-
E6 6b ***1
246CúchulainnE2 5c ***37
247Death or Glory
-
E4 6a *** 
248London Calling
-
E5 6b ** 
249VikingHVS 5a  
250Little Martha
-
S 4b 2
251Drowsy Maggie
-
S 4a 2
252Buttons and Bows
-
E4 6a ***11
253Spirited AwayE7 6b *** 
254Cinnabar
-
E2 5c *4
255Candy Kisses
-
E4 6a ***6
256Puritan
-
E2 5c  
257Tír na nÓgE6 6a **3
258Reilig
-
E3 5c **1
259XL
-
E4 6a * 
260XL Variation Start
-
E4 6a  
261Waist Deep in Alligators
-
E4 6a *** 
262Lochlannach
-
E3 6a  
263Stop Making Sense
-
E5 6b ** 
264Talking Heads
-
E4 6a **10
265Muck Savage
-
HVS 5a 1
266Licence to Kill
-
E4 5c ** 
267Cool Hand LukeE2 5c *3
268The Hustler
-
E3 6a ***26
269Conchubair
-
E2 5c ***56
270The MaskE5 6a ***25
271Face ValueE4 6a ***47
272Flying Lizards
-
E3 6a *2
273Smashing Pumpkins
-
E6 6a * 
274Full of Energy, Ready 2 PartyE5 6a *** 
275The Stoat
-
E2 5c **8
276Heaven Can Wait
-
E4 6a ** 
277The Promised Land
-
E4 6a ***20
278The Complete ScreamE8 6b ***1
279Primal ScreamE6 6b ***12
280Blind Pew
-
E2 5b **58
281End Game
-
E5 6a *** 
282Mizen StarE2 5b ***71
283Titanic
-
E2 5c ***21
284Maiden Voyage
-
E5 6b **1
285Salango
-
E3 5c ***42
286The Fame GameE4 6a **3
287Hughie Green (Fame Game Direct Start)
-
E3 5c **1
288Equinox
-
E2 5b ***83
289A Bad Skin DayE7 6c *** 
290The Big SkinE8 6c *** 
 Ballycastle Descent Gully East 
292The Rathlin EffectE8 6c *** 
293Below and BeholdE7 6c *** 
294Above and BeyondE6 6b ***12
295Once You Go Black You Never Go BackE7 6c *** 
296Where the Grass is GreenE7 6c *** 
297The Wall of PreyE5 6b ***43
298The Wall of Prey (Direct Start)E5 6b *** 
299Taming the TigerE6 6b *** 
300PhilE5 6b ** 
301Way of the Jive MonkeysE7 6b ***3
302Styx
-
E7 6c *** 
303Styx (pre-collapse)
-
E5 6b ***1
304Hell's Kitchen
-
HVS 5a ***179
305Hell's Kitchen Arete
-
E6 6a ***9
306A Rite of Passage
-
E4 6b  
307Two Sides to the Story
-
E4 5c  
308ManannánE1 5b  
309Ocean Boulevard
-
E3 5c ***33
310Aoife
-
E1 5b **65
311Closing Time
-
E6 6c  
312Girona
-
VS 5a ***167
313Musarat
-
E4 6a * 
314Chieftain
-
VS 4b **134
315Taoiseach
-
VS 4c *57
316Cyclone
-
E3 5c *2
317Racing Line
-
E6 6b ** 
318Run Fast Run Free
-
E3 6a *14
319Hector Pickaxe
-
E5 6b  
320April
-
E1 5b *22
321April Variation Finish
-
E1 5b **24
322The Brat
-
VS 4b 18
323Master Chapster
-
HVS 5a 3
324Cruthin
-
S 1
 Ballycastle Descent Gully West 
326Offcuts
-
HVS 5a 5
327Dusty Rhodes
-
E2 5c *1
328Emmanuelle
-
VS 4b *3
329Soulful Eyes
-
VS 4c 1
330Andromeda
-
HVS 4c 1
331Eithne Inguba
-
E1 5b *3
332ArgosyE1 5a *3
333OdysseyVS 4c **43
334Odyssey Variation
-
E1 5b 2
335Dearg DoomVS 4c *7
336Atlantic City
-
E1 5b * 
337The Great Plains
-
E2 5c  
338Sodbuster
-
VS 4c *2
339Rumplestiltskin
-
E3 5c 1
340End of an Era
-
E2 5c  
341Pepper and Bracket
-
E2 5c  
342The Quiet Man
-
E2 5b  
 The Prow 
344Five Gears in ReverseE1 5b 1
345Jubilee
-
E1 5b  
346Pyrrhic Victory
-
E2 5b **5
347Cyprus Avenue
-
E3 6a  
348Threadneedle Street
-
E3 5c  
349Mojave
-
E3 5c  
350Thunder Road
-
E3 5c ***7
351Wagger Moon
-
E2 5c **6
352The Doffer
-
E1 5b *3
353Black Taxi
-
E1 5b *8
354Darkness
-
E2 5c **22
355Mongrel Fox
-
E1 5b **44
356Thunderhips
-
E1 5b **27
357Thunderhips Direct
-
E4 6a  
358Fireball
-
E1 5b ***123
359Midnight Cruiser
-
E1 5b ***168
360Marconi Arête
-
E4 6a * 
361Marconi
-
E3 5c ***52
362The Embankment
-
E2 5c ***80
363Railroad
-
E1 5b ***126
364Balooba
-
VS 4c 8
365Sabre Rattler
-
HVS 4c *26
366Stone Mad
-
HVS 5a 29
367Revival
-
HVS 5a 12
368Curlew
-
VS 4c 29
369Contortions
-
VS 4c 23
370Poxy Arete
-
E2 5c 1
371Contractions
-
VS 5a 24
372Foxy
-
HS 7
373Good Morning Judge
-
HVS 5a 45
374Energize
-
E1 5b ** 
375Fáth Mo Bhuartha
-
E1 5b ***125
376GBH
-
E3 6a ***75
377The Black Thief
-
VS 4b ***217
378The Fence
-
VS 4c ***174
379The Offence
-
HVS 5a 27
380Residue
-
HS 4a 1
381Jungle Rock
-
VS 5a 5
382Los Molinos
-
HS 4a 4
383La Molinero
-
HVS 5a 7
384Bramble
-
S 26
385Driodar na hAille
-
HS 12
386Simple Minds
-
E1 5b *27
387Salamander
-
VS 4c 10
 Farrangandoo 
389Gunther Grass
-
S 5
390CasablancaVS 4c 17
391Cadiz
-
E1 5c  
392Cairo
-
HVS 5a  
393Fargo
-
E3 5c  
394Belfast Cowboys
-
E4 6a  
395The Kerb
-
E3 5c ** 
396Slittery Slat
-
E2 5c ** 
397Crib Pad Crack
-
E1 5b ***22
398Crib Pad Crack Direct
-
E3 6a ***8
399Pangur Bán
-
HVS 5a ***68
400Dark Corners
-
E1 5b 1
401Loosestrife
-
E1 5b 1
402AlleycatHVS 5b 1
403SamsonVS 4c *3
404LazarusVS 4c *14
405Hard RainE1 5b 2
406JezebelHVS 5b *4
407Velocette
-
VS 4b *3
408The Squirt
-
VS 4b 1
409Essence
-
E3 5c  
410Unnamed Triptic
-
E2 5c  
411Big Hooothcher
-
E3 6a  
412Kor
-
E3 5c  
413Joy Division
-
E2 5c  
414Big Sky
-
E2 5c *1
415The Royal Scam
-
E1 5b  
416Moonfleet
-
HVS 5a 1
417Juggernaut
-
HVS 5a 1
418Flashover
-
E3 5c  
419Kashubia
-
HVS 5a * 
420Chicargo
-
HVS 5a  
421Speak Easy
-
HVS 5a  
422Shere Khan
-
E2 5c ** 
423Lionheart
-
E4 6a * 
424Watcher of the Skies
-
E2 6a  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andy Moles