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Font d'Axia Xalo Valley, SPAIN
Climbs 33 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 228m a.s.l – Faces S
The main crag has seen some futher development by David Baggaley, Chris Newton-Goverd and local climbers. All climbs are now bolted and have good lower off's . The bee's nest is no longer.
First ascents, El Hijo de Winne, El Hombre Frio, Super Hombre del sol and Donde las aguilas se atreven y los loros hablar de ello, done by David Baggaley.
Los Reyes by Chris Newton-Goverd.
Arnauet,a great 6a for the very tall, was by a another.
Pen Naranja currently has 9 climbs ranging from 4+ to 7a the development of this crag has been the work of Peter Eccles and David Baggaley.
Loopy Lou 6b, Gracias Frank Maric's 7a, Mi Amigo Jasper 4+, el Sueno 5 all by David Baggaley with Chris Newton-Goverd making the first clean ascent of Gracias Frank Maric's.
The Furures Bright 6b, Viviendo en la Esperanza 6a, Zurdo 5, Atrapado en Esdpana 5 and Dirty Harry 5+ all by Peter Eccles.
Spain : Costa Blanca (2013),
Out of print: Costa Blanca (2005)
Climbs at this crag
At the turn off from the Gata De Gorgos road there is now a sign showing both crags. The main Crag and one to the left known as Pena Naranja. Turn off here and follow the good concrete road to the parking area. However, do not follow the old footpath instead go 5m on from the parking area turn right and follow the concrete road up hill. It level off just before the wooden cabin. Just past this you will see that the landowner has spent alot of time and money rebuilding the terraces, plowing and replanting new tree's. The old path goes through this area and should be avoided.
Stay on the concrete road and just before the first ruin on the right, wooden post, turn right down some steps and follow the zig zag until it level off and you are by the main crag. Just as quick and better under foot.
To access Pena Naranja traverse left from the main crag for 150m, faint path with small cairns and this will bring you to the centre of the crag right beneath MI Amigo Jasper, named after David Baggaley dog.
Do not drive up the road and park at the large concrete area before the ruin as this is on private land and it is not yet clear if the landowner is allowing parking there. Nor drive past the no access sign to the font.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Emma
New route just right Mi Amigo Jasper. Start at the same route but turn right to climb an small overhang. Follow the samll cracks to the same belay that Mi Amigo Jasper.
Route completely clean, full rack needed.
named "El Impaciente" 4+ 15m.
David Mora - 04/May/12
In my feedback of 3/2/11 I wrote CV waymarks. Of course it should be PV (for paths) and the number is 53.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
I've just been to Font d'Axia. There is room for 3 or 4 cars on the right at the place shown in Rockfax, not on the left. The path is obvious and has a couple of CV waymarks at the start. The new area to the left of the main crag has the routes and grades marked apart from the second from the left. People there were saying that the big groove in the middle, The Future's Bright 6b+? should be 6a+.
The actual font where there is plenty of parking is about 400m further along the road, not 100m.
Paul Horan - 03/Feb/11
Didn't see any bees either.
matthewjames - 08/Jul/10
The map in the Rockfax Costa Blanca guidebook is very confusing since the parking spot is on the other side of the road, the trees shown on the map don't stand out and I'm pretty sure the crag should be drawn much further right. Its very easy to drive on and park at the end of the road, which looks much more like the parking spot described on the map but then finding the crag is obviously much harder! We spent 2 hours looking for it! We found it ont the way back after we had given up but by then it was too hot to climb so we came back the next day. Dennis T's description of where the parking spot actually is is good.
If you manage to find the crag it is really nice, quite a bit better then described, all the routes listed in the guidebook as trad have now been bolted along with a few other routes which are all marked along with their grades. All the bolts are nice and new and most of the climbs have screwgates fitted at the top which is convenient. I did a nice 6a next to Perell el cacaolat that isn't in the guidebook.
matthewjames - 07/Jul/10
There are a few new climbs on the wall about 150m walk further along to the left. Mis Amigo Jasper, which looks about a 4/5 and El Sueno which is shorter but looks about a 5/6a.
omniscient_penguin - 15/Apr/10
The turn off is signposted Xalo and is at the northern end of the town of Gata.
The key thing on the walk in is not to take the track as it would appear from Rockfax, but a small signposted footpath some 20 mts before it, about 100 mts before the font.
Al Evans - 26/Aug/08
Finding the right turn off in Gata requires a bit of guesswork!
mwh - 06/Jan/06
This crag is not easy to find but well worth it for good, modest grade (VS) climbing. Follow the track until you reach an S-bend on a rising slope and park there, just past the new villa Aeubella (sp?. If you reach the small man-made lake you have gone too far.
New bolts and lower-offs are good.
Dennis T. - 14/Dec/05
All the routes on this crag have now been fully bolted. No need for wires anymore. Great introductory crag to the costa blanca.
Marts - 17/Nov/05