Climbs 34
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 228m a.s.l
Faces S

Tim psyching up for the slap! © Jus

Crag features

A small but pleasant crag in a remote-feeling setting, despite only being a short walk from the road. There are only a few climbs here, but, as a good percentage of them are in the lower grades and they are well-bolted, the crag is often quite busy. The routes are fairly steep for their given grades and there is some loose rock around, so a little care is required.

The crag has morning shade and is sheltered from north-easterly winds, making it a fair bet on blowy days. When hot it is a real sun-trap in the afternoons. 

Approach notes

The best approach is from Benissa (N332 and/or AP-7 junction 63 depending on whether you are coming from Calp or the motorway). From here take either the CV-745 via Senija, or the CV-750 via Jalon, to Lliber. Go through Lliber and turn towards Gata de Gorges on the CV-748. Continue for about 4.5km to a bend in the trees and, opposite a large white house with a turret, is a track that runs northwest. Follow this as it bends right, then crosses a dry riverbed. Continue on bumpy concrete, keeping left at the only significant junction, to a point where a dirt track branches back hard right, there is parking for about three vehicles here. This is 2.1km from the road, and about 400m before the end of the track. Leave nothing in the car. Follow the track as it rises gently around into a dry valley, then climb up a couple of terraces and cross over to the base of the cliff.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
New route just right Mi Amigo Jasper. Start at the same route but turn right to climb an small overhang. Follow the samll cracks to the same belay that Mi Amigo Jasper. Route completely clean, full rack needed. named "El Impaciente" 4+ 15m.
David Mora - 04/May/12
In my feedback of 3/2/11 I wrote CV waymarks. Of course it should be PV (for paths) and the number is 53.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
I've just been to Font d'Axia. There is room for 3 or 4 cars on the right at the place shown in Rockfax, not on the left. The path is obvious and has a couple of CV waymarks at the start. The new area to the left of the main crag has the routes and grades marked apart from the second from the left. People there were saying that the big groove in the middle, The Future's Bright 6b+? should be 6a+. The actual font where there is plenty of parking is about 400m further along the road, not 100m.
Paul Horan - 03/Feb/11
Didn't see any bees either.
matthewjames - 08/Jul/10
The map in the Rockfax Costa Blanca guidebook is very confusing since the parking spot is on the other side of the road, the trees shown on the map don't stand out and I'm pretty sure the crag should be drawn much further right. Its very easy to drive on and park at the end of the road, which looks much more like the parking spot described on the map but then finding the crag is obviously much harder! We spent 2 hours looking for it! We found it ont the way back after we had given up but by then it was too hot to climb so we came back the next day. Dennis T's description of where the parking spot actually is is good. If you manage to find the crag it is really nice, quite a bit better then described, all the routes listed in the guidebook as trad have now been bolted along with a few other routes which are all marked along with their grades. All the bolts are nice and new and most of the climbs have screwgates fitted at the top which is convenient. I did a nice 6a next to Perell el cacaolat that isn't in the guidebook.
matthewjames - 07/Jul/10
There are a few new climbs on the wall about 150m walk further along to the left. Mis Amigo Jasper, which looks about a 4/5 and El Sueno which is shorter but looks about a 5/6a.
omniscient_penguin - 15/Apr/10
The turn off is signposted Xalo and is at the northern end of the town of Gata. The key thing on the walk in is not to take the track as it would appear from Rockfax, but a small signposted footpath some 20 mts before it, about 100 mts before the font.
Al Evans - 26/Aug/08
Finding the right turn off in Gata requires a bit of guesswork!
mwh - 06/Jan/06
This crag is not easy to find but well worth it for good, modest grade (VS) climbing. Follow the track until you reach an S-bend on a rising slope and park there, just past the new villa Aeubella (sp?. If you reach the small man-made lake you have gone too far. New bolts and lower-offs are good. Dennis T.
Dennis T. - 14/Dec/05
All the routes on this crag have now been fully bolted. No need for wires anymore. Great introductory crag to the costa blanca.
Marts - 17/Nov/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Font d'Axia - Left 
2Loopy Lou6b *17
3Gracias Frank Maric7a **9
4The Future is Bright6b+ *32
5Viviendo en la Esperanza6a *28
6Mi amigo Jasper4a 24
7Zurdo5a *19
8Atrapado en España5c *24
9Dirty Harry5c *24
10El sueño5a *21
 Font d'Axia - Main 
12Izquierda ruta3+ *117
13Bvd4a *136
14Rincon de Winne4a *32
15Winne5a *87
16El Hijo de Winne5c *60
17El paval4c **151
18Cilla4c *96
19Savina4c **119
20Los Reyes4a *39
21El Hombre Frio5c 35
22Perell el cacaolat5c **68
23Arnauet6a *46
24Superhombre sol6a 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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