Climbs 236
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Parabólica Spherique, 7a+ Gandia © Chris Froud

Crag features

Sitting above a broad orange-filled valley, the red and grey terraced walls of Gandía offer many fine climbs. The grade range is good and, although it isn't great for people leading below 6a, there are enough easier routes dotted around the crag to give a day's worth. In the sixes and sevens the crag excels, with many great routes on pocketed walls and knobbly tufas. The easier climbs are mostly on grey walls, featuring fingery climbing of a good quality. The harder routes are often superb.

The crag faces south, catches all the sun going and is sheltered, it can be hot here even in the middle of winter. The steeper areas suffer from seepage after rain when many of the tufa climbs become impossible. If things haven't started to seep you should find something dry, though it may be pretty tough. El Bovedón stays dry in the rain but the routes are hard.

Approach notes

Drive north on the toll AP-7 to junction 61 - Oliva. Exit here and turn left towards Gandía. Drive through Bellreguard (slow) to a roundabout and take the second exit signed to Valencia. Once on the bypass take the 'Barx' exit which is after the first tunnel and before the second. Turn left under the N332 and the motorway. When you can see the crag ahead on your right, branch right, signed 'Cami de Tomba', and park below the crag. For those with less time and more cash it is faster to drive to the next junction on the motorway then head back south to the roundabout on the ring road. The current access route crosses the dry river bed up-stream from the parking. 

El Bovedón - Drive to Gandía. Continue past the turning for the main crag for 900m then turn left (signed 'Bar Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning on the left (which is a surfaced road just past a large green gate). Take this and drive to the first bend and park (the rest of the road is in a very poor state). Walk to the end of the road and follow the path across a slope to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
most of the new climbs listed are at Bovedos. Approach instructions: If coming from Gandia crag drive past the last Bovedon junction that takes you to Bovedon parking in the villas. Continue on the Cami Meravelles Cova Negra to an obvious parking on left with space for around 10 cars. Park up. continue walking to a gated track on left, if gate closed climb wall. Walk up track, staying on left one until a dry valley to the right of a sign about cave paintings. Walk up valley to crag (20 min approach). Most route names are on the rock.
hms - 16/Mar/15
A point to note: El Bovedon faces south, not east as the guide suggests. This is clearly apparent as you can't see the sea from the cave! That means it's much hotter than the guide might leave you to believe, with only the Abracadabra wall receiving shade all day, and the majority of the crag recieving full sun. Great climbing to be had at both El Bovedon and the Gandia main crag!
Jon_Warner - 19/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Critic 
2Margarita, quan pixa6a+ 4
3Esperó groc6b 4
4Diagnosis superficial6b *4
5Pasando de poli7b  
6Voldria morir7a * 
7Ja estic mort7a+ * 
8Gran Diedro5c ***69
9Selectiva6c *2
10Espolón "why"6c *9
11Megaloceras7a 1
12Águilas5a **12
13Piccolissima6a **57
14Tierra Lliure5c *7
15P.S.A.N.6b 7
16Beniarrés no em diu res5a *57
17Tallà5a **69
18Placa Simond4a *32
 Sector Hidraulics 
20Me vuelo3+ 76
21Donde rapullo4a *101
22Uber looking4c *110
23What's Up?4c 92
24Fe Ra3+ **122
25Coral bajilla5c *164
26Monsters of rock7a 8
27Pequeño saltamontes5a *232
28Erupción5a *18
29Pagaras amb costo6a 4
30S'estrena en la trena5c 5
31Assassí de vampiros7a *32
32Negué Gorrak7c+ *1
33Phythophthora cithrophthora7b *2
34Quien Malonda7a+ **25
35Spherique voice7a+ ***29
36Parabolic7b  
37Parabolic Voice
-
7b  
38Kortatu7b 2
39Viatge a Cuba7b 1
40Blaniulus gluttulatus7a **43
41Patatas a lo pobre7b+ **14
42Asamblea de Mojaras7c+  
43Ostia coqueta7a+ **4
44Zucaricida6c **25
45Leí del perrero6c+ *6
 Secto Vici 
47Fisura tal..6a+ **158
48Pastor i porreta6c 6
49Niña de porcelana6a+ **74
50Gora7a 5
51Pa Roig6b **52
52Asquerosa coincidencia6c **33
53El sol6b+ ***179
54Kin mal d'ous7b  
55Escorreguda precoç6c *4
56Peiote de bote6b ***100
57Valentet de València6b ***109
58Placa de Ulaca6b **25
59Muricana6b *14
60Nació6b+ **22
61Madarikatuak6c+ *6
62Chiqui6c+ *5
63Fes-te-ho6a+ 6
64En Falles no folles6b *5
65Capitán Manchego6a 7
66Kaya6b+ *4
 Sector Fundicio 
68Sense opció6b 2
69Nupcias6b+ **25
70Milan Kundera6a+ 60
71Chitiri, chitiri4c **134
72La insoportable6a *80
73La levedad6a *124
74El ser5a *101
75Bombero gorilero6a **124
76Tamborinaes 936a+ **142
77Puntín d'Ernestín7a 2
78El Rigio6b+ **42
79Pepestroika6b ***222
80Última Albertència6c+ ***61
81Amarrada al pilló6b+ ***133
82Pere6c+ **32
83Publicasion sin tradision7b+ *3
84A mi no m'afecta6c *9
85S'ambossa6c 5
86Espanya no m'apanya7b *8
87En médium7c *1
88Día de borratxera7b  
89Joc de manos7a 8
 Sector Potent 
91Gandia Potent One5c 7
92Stephen Kaka6b+ *31
93Cuartet de bany5a **86
94Novatillos5c ***122
95P.R.4c *40
96G.R.6c+ 2
97Maque, Popeye y la Sirla6b+ **32
98Dónde hostias putas6b+ **30
99Joputa6b+ ***35
100Star fort7b * 
101Tercer ull7b *2
102Muluk el targuí7a+ ***22
103Urbália Rurana7b **13
104Sugar glass7b+ ***10
105El chico de mantenimiento
-
7a+ **2
106Botoia sakatu7c ***7
107Enya7b ***35
108Baila al alba7b+ **7
109A la babilla7a+ ***70
110L'os7a ***110
111Dos super carrozas7a+ ***28
112Don Diego7a+ ***56
113Jaqo mata7a+ **6
 Sector Final 
115Sopas del rei7b * 
116Solta el mos7a **35
117Galló de la Susanna Alba7a **47
118Otilia resiste7a+ 1
119Prou d'hipocresia7a+  
120Groceries7a 1
121Andreu i Papandreu6b+ *12
122A mano7a *11
123Bum bum ipaneme5a *53
124Beato Andrés Hibernon6a *66
125Lleones5a *61
126Fetiche6c 1
127Abu Abd Allah Muhammad6b+ *12
128Sense goma no conill6a+ **50
1293/4 d'hora6a+ **49
130Vergonya5c 17
 Sector Topdeckio 
132Pep Camarera5a 1
133Golondrinas5a 1
134Eva Luna6c *3
135Derribos Arias6b+ *5
136Sand Bag7a 1
137Boca de grimpau6b+ *2
138Guatleta6c 4
139Queferoset6c 1
140Rosarito6b 3
141Esfínter dilatat5c *16
142Sarcófago?7b+ * 
143Anatema maranata7b * 
144Celtas Cortos6a+ **13
145Guirigay6a+ *11
146Gandia Topdeckio 156c *1
147Tranquilizad7a *1
148Gandia Topdeckio 176b+ *2
149Descara6b+ **3
150Gandia Topdeckio 197a *2
151Boltxevique6c **8
152Vulcano6c+ ***6
153Gandia Topdeckio 226b+ ***18
154Lo que sigui6a+ *18
155Mal del tord5c **24
156Kamari6a **35
157Cotó-en-pels5c **29
158Gandia Topdeckio 275c *21
 El Bovedon 
160De-bolted Rib4a 2
161Bovedón Short Bulge6b 2
162Bovedón Short Groove6a  
163Rib and Wall7b *1
164Bovedón 6b Rib6b *6
165Bovedón Wall Left6a *6
166Bovedón Wall Right6a *5
167Bovedón Broccoli Wall7a+ *1
168Insomni7b * 
169Qu'est-ce que tu fais7a *2
170Bovedón Bushes Route 17a+ **1
171Bovedón Bushes Route 26c **4
172Bovedón Bushes Route 36c *3
173Lobos8a **2
174Ave Roma
-
7b  
175Ave Eva
-
7b  
176Trasnochando8b *** 
177Farrear y corbardes7b ***8
178Perpetúan mobile7c ***6
179Larga, dura y caliente8a+ *** 
180Arcadia7c ***10
181Carnicero de Castelnovo8a+ ***1
182Abradacabra7c+ ***4
183Gimnasi
-
6b+  
184Armando8a+ *** 
185Malsoñando8c *** 
186La Negra
-
8c+ *** 
187Mestizaje
-
8c+ *** 
188Troglobio8b ** 
189La Antorcha Humana
-
7b * 
190Chocho Pocho
-
7a * 
191Benito Camela7b **1
192Tulipunk7b+ **1
193Rica chona6c *6
194Bovedóna6b+ **20
195Quin Tomas6b **18
196Hernia Fiscal7a+ *5
197Tambors Llunyans7a *8
198Escalada Lechunga6a+ *5
199Quinto Pino6a+ *2
200La de Javi
-
7c * 
201Poquer-Mon
-
6b  
202Setze Tacos
-
6b * 
 Other Routes (Location uncertain) 
204Ultima Broca part 1
-
6a+ 2
205Ultima Broca (L1 & 2)
-
7a 1
206Voyage pour un sourire
-
7a **4
207Bob Natural Mystic
-
7b ***2
208El Puto Gabacho de los Cojones
-
7b+ *3
209Pecas Revoltosas
-
7c ***3
210Agujetas en las Tetas
-
7c+ ***2
211El Romprebragas
-
8a ***2
212Dedos5b 1
213Rincon y costilla
-
3 **1
214Mikado
-
8a  
215AmparanoiaProject  
216La Rampa CalzoncillasProject  
217Bob Natural Mystic (L1 & 2)
-
8b+  
218Banzo Arribo DirectProject  
219Banzo Arribo (RH start)
-
8b  
220La Canera8a+  
221Venemo Negro
-
8b  
222Clases de Frances
-
7c+ 2
223Anjia Viva
-
7c+  
224Viva el Anjia
-
7b+  
225HerejeProject 1
226Ironia
-
6c+  
227La Rubia Leganosa7a+  
228Por Amor a Marte7b+  
229Perpetúan mobile L1 *7a+ ***1
230? In between Fe Ra & Coral bajilla *5a *1
231No name 1 *5b *1
232No Name 2 *4c 1
233Bovedin: Tira Menos *
-
6a+ 1
234Bovedin: Mas Vale Mana Que Mano *
-
6b *1
235Bovedin: Nebulosa *
-
6c+ 1
236Urano *
-
7a+ **1
237Bovedin: Superdosis *
-
7b 1
238SN 9 *7a **1
239Perpetuando *8a ***1
240Rita *6a ***3
241La Raspa *6a 1
242Susto *6a+ ***2
243Cosme *
-
6b **1
244Tallavarte *
-
6b **1
245Tiramenos *6b **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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