Climbs 143
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 430m a.s.l
Faces all

Salem © Tom Phillips

Crag features

Salem is a friendly crag with plenty of easily accessible and well-bolted climbing, and there is always sun and shade to choose from. The rock is generally good with water-washed limestone, covered in small solution pockets, on the right-hand side, and more featured walls on the left-hand side. The gear and lower-offs are all solid and well-positioned though it has to be admitted that the over-bolting actually detracts from the climbing in a couple of sectors.

Many visitors here make the mistake of just climbing on the two sectors near the parking - Frigorific and Estival. Both these offer the odd good route, especially in the easier grades, however they are not the best climbing here and you will get much more from the crag if you venture up onto the higher side walls and explore the place a bit. 

Bolts have a habit of disappearing from the easier routes on Sectors Frigorific and Estival. Some people may find a small rack of wires useful just in case.

The crags are laid out in a 'V' shape running into a deeply incised valley that is sheltered from the wind. Extremes of temperature may be encountered as the crags on the right-hand side of the valley face northwest and only get late afternoon sun, whilst the crags opposite face south and bask in the sun until late afternoon.

Approach notes

From the Calp/Benidorm area the best approach is via Gandía. Follow the approach to Gandía until the first turn off on the ring road signed to 'Albahida' (alternatively use the tricky but quicker method via Oliva and La Font indicated on the map on page 379). After 20km turn off towards 'Castellon de Rugat' and drive round Castellon de Rugat, then turn right following the 'Salem' signs. After 2.3km, just before you enter Salem, turn left (signed 'Muro de Alcoi'). Follow a winding road until you see a large green factory (Font Salem water-bottling plant) on the right. The road swings around over a small bridge and you will see Sector Frigorífico just above the road. Park on the dirt track in front of a small substation. You can also drive through Castellón de Rugat and turn right onto the CV-705 but this is harder to follow, however it is useful for your return journey.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
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I'd like to claim some routes from this crag for my ticklist, but I'm not really sure what I climbed! Massively overbolted in places.
mwh - 06/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Estival 
2Pal o'mine4a 20
3Pal4a 19
4Pal Sentete5a 22
5Pal Toni6a 11
6Acces denegat6a 14
7Farael tan guarro6a+ 7
8R2 dedos3+ 46
9C3 pedos5a 62
10Boulder Rock6c 19
11Xeroki4a *95
12U24c *110
13Mosca taca4a 74
14Passeig dominical3+ *63
15La brixa de Salem4c *98
16La brixa de Salem right-hand
4c 21
17Negra neusl els set gigantes4a 73
18Naxcuda en lliure3 46
 Sector Frigorifico 
20El kiki6c 2
21El gro6b 3
22Alaxuplala6a 16
23Suc d'avespa5a 18
24Xupla polen5a *27
25Mikel i altres broxes5c *30
26Mikel caga flores5a *32
27Guarolo que la casola5a *34
28Camalot5a *32
29El graduado5c *19
30No hay billetes6a+ *13
31Bájame una estrella7a+ **13
32Fort battle7b+ ** 
33La pelusa par rusa6b+ **8
34Ahora corre La sangre7b+  
35Cuidado, cuidado6b **21
36No es lolo todo lo que8a 1
38Eau dansissam6c *1
39Tiempos al tiempos7a+ * 
40Quo vadis troni8b  
41I de mejor7b * 
42Caña dulce7b  
43Somnis de tardó6a **28
44Mía ribe a temps6a+ *13
45Sfinter-man el hombre karaña5a 13
 Sector Sol i Bon Temps 
47El lobo veloz6a+  
48Samurai6b 2
49A tot ostia6a+ *7
50Oferta explosiva6b  
101No me toques rompo6a *10
102No le toques la oreja6b * 
103El demoño dojo6b+  
104El principo del fin6a *8
 Sector Iniciacio 
106Langoliers4a 4
107Gorro Andino4a 2
108Solo con receta medica4a 12
109Semen retentum5a 7
110Condenado a muerte4a 9
111Tapa el forat4a 7
 Sector Complicacions 
113Egipt Air4c *27
114Istambul4c *23
115Peret i marieta4c 6
116Sports Aitana4c *8
117Borrul, Borrul5a *15
118Si te Molla5a 5
119Jesuita bim bam6a+ * 
120Estoy frito tres delicias6b+ ** 
121Tbo negro7b * 
122No molla portar6b+ * 
123Chimpangali6b+ * 
124Viuda negra6a *2
125Expolon6a * 
126Semilla negra7a+ * 
127Thu7a * 
128Calvorotas6a **1
129Monomakina6c ** 
130Chupe pachá7a+ ** 
131Baja chocho7b *** 
132Droga dura7c * 
133Amiches6a+ *2
134Lluvia ácida7a * 
135Marka pasos7b * 
136Tu et punxes tio6c+ ** 
137Pelas pa las pilas7c+ * 
138Tómate un respiro7b+ *** 
139Pedromina piruleta7b ** 
140El silencio7c * 
141Con agua me cloroformo6b *2
142Celtas cortos6c * 
143Tirate al ruedo6b+ *3
144Les granotes minja6b+  
145Sed de libertad6a  
147Mierda en los dedos7a  
149Nicho para un bicho7a  

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