Climbs 143
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 327m a.s.l
Faces S

Neil Carruthers approaching the crimpy upper wall on Dagon (F6c), Montesa © chris sm

Crag features

Montesa is a great little crag of pocketed rock. The routes are generally short, however the climbing is of a high calibre, the rock is rough, the setting is sunny and many of the routes are quite intense. There is a good variety of styles on offer here and some good picnic spots. The crag can get very busy, especially at weekends. The main buttresses are included here. 

Most of the crag faces south and, although the setting is quite exposed, it doesn't appear to catch much wind. There is no shelter in the rain here though the place dies dry quickly.

Approach notes

Montesa is just northwest of the N430 near Xàtiva. From the coast, head north to Gandía and get on the fast CV-60 towards Albaida (see map on page 379 for alternatives for this). Join the CV-40 heading north. This point can also be reached via Alcoi if you are coming from further south. After about 12km turn towards Albaceta on the N430 dual carriageway. Continue south to junction 37 to Montesa. Drive into the town and pick up signs for 'Castell de Montesa'. There are actually two signs which take you different ways around the town - they are both about the same distance. Park at a flat area below the castle. Walk down the hill to a path on the bend which leads to the crag. 

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Half a dozen newly bolted routes have appeared to the left of PEDRA CRISTALINA sector, there are no indications of names or grades, so names have been made up and can be corrected if any original names are known.
fatbuoybazza - 06/Apr/14
What a great little Crag! Well bolted routes and some incredible rock akin to Craig y Tonnau in wales....weird and wonderful
SGD - 26/Nov/12
Great little crag for ticking loads of routes in a day. About 1hr 45 mins from Calpe. Grades on the whole felt soft.
Zoomer - 29/Dec/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Romolandia 
2Roma
-
4a  
3El silencio de los romos
-
6c  
4El bueno, el romo y el feo
-
6c  
5Los romos gemelos y Bin romo
-
6c  
6Rom
-
6c  
7Rómolo y Remo
-
6c+  
8Romeo y chungueta
-
7a+  
9Romotrón
-
6b  
10CD-Romo
-
6b+  
11Romo-cop
-
6b+  
12Romolandia
-
6c  
137 Romos Y Un Funeral
-
7b  
14Lliure de Fillol
-
3  
15Duhast
-
5a  
 Sector El Raco del Boticari 
17Trapatroles
-
6c+  
18Reflex
-
6b  
19Cagalló pre-históric
-
6a+  
20Pasión por los dedos
-
6a  
21El sostre del cigró
-
6c  
22Albert abad i cia
-
5c  
23Maldito escafoides
-
6a  
24Diedre del sensei Ri
-
6a 1
25Tricloroetano
-
5c 2
26Profesor Bacterio
-
5c 1
27Calmatel
-
6b+  
28Trankimazin
-
6c+  
29Rompecantos
-
6b+  
30Mala reputación
-
6a+ **1
31Los Ricardos
-
7b+  
32Pastillas Juanolas
-
6c+  
33Las pastillas del doctor Albi
-
6c 1
 La Placa 
35Whisky a gogó
-
7a+  
36Sube los pies!!
-
6c  
37Mola la Mola
-
6a  
 Tormo Gros 
 Tormo Gros - North Face 
40Ale guleee5a 33
41Wanted chorizo de chapas5a *61
42Sola5a *56
43Ultimatum5a *52
44Viadelina5c 34
45Maximo Orgasmo6b *36
46Selenta5a *57
47Selenta dos6a+ *22
48Forta dos5c *74
49La Forta5c 39
50Menira5c *72
51Rosa4a 95
52L'amic Joan Grau4a *87
53Pijus Magnificus6b 15
54Picha linda6b+ 8
55Normal3 4
56V.S.V.6a+ 6
57C.B.S.4a *25
58Free climbing4c *28
59Sherpa Pertemba5c 29
60One Ticket for Kentucky7c  
 Tormo Gros South Face 
62West6c *6
63Ajetreos6c+ *2
64Pin y Pon7a *3
657 anas16b+ *1
66Que fas? El porc6a **21
67Poquet i bo6a+ *10
68La cartera6b+ *11
69Sin nombre 16c *1
70Sin nombre 26c *1
71Llepons6c+ * 
72Marti de Viciana6c+ * 
73Mitja via6c+ *2
74Montesejos6b **8
75Taxi bou7b * 
76Xativeos-946c *4
 Paret de la Mola 
78Milio6b+ * 
79Dagón6b+ ***29
80Ningún Drama6c ***15
81Sense titól6c **13
82No Name Uno6b+ **4
83Valeria6c **1
84No Name Dos6b+ **3
85La fura Deus6b *24
86Tuli-lola6a *47
87Fornicadores4a 4
88La bola del drac4a *8
89L'oratge6b *12
90Diedro ecologic5c *9
91Per aci Mixel no passa6b 8
92Diedre güay5a **65
93Elo Deu del vent5c **107
94Epiliano dels collons5c ***163
95Pic-pic5c ***134
96La colmena6a+ *68
97La Panxa6b **51
98Pepemite6a+ *59
99La lluita dels caps6b+ *10
100Xila6a+ *44
101La Virgo5c ***92
102Insubmissio6a *33
103Qué morro!6a+ *35
104Te la mango6c *11
105Speed6c+  
106L'espectacul6c ***16
107Quan la lluna flora6c *9
108Diedre de t'home dur6b *11
109Galteta roja6a+ *13
110El nas de Roseta6a+ *5
 Pedra Cristalina Left 
112Necesito Jabon6a 2
113No Hay Toallas6a 3
114Donde se Paga5a 8
115Espereme, Por Favor4a 7
116La asistenta viene todos los lunes6a 7
117No me gustan las cortinas6a 3
 Pedra Cristalina 
119Unknown5a 1
120Estornuts6b+ *5
121Llagrimes en la piedra7b *1
122Lo mas duro7b+  
123Baltario6b **15
124Caxi-baxe7a+ * 
125Quedara en tu memoria7a+ * 
126Me supura la fisura6a 3
127Ferrán JB6c *3
128La llumeneta6c+ 1
129Agárramela por el cuello6b+ *13
130Menir6a+ 4
131¡A la mili quillo!6a+ 7
132Cristalina6a+ *11
133Colorines6a+ *23
134Diedro besuco5a *27
135La teoría de la palanca6a *20
136Variante la teoría6a 24
137El paso del embolo6a *35
138Xorrollera Pinza Hut6b *16
139El forat negre6a+ *22
140Isma6b+ *2
141Pepe Blai6a+ **43
142Juanot6c  
143Patiras tendinitis6c *2
144Patiras d'estrenyiment6c * 
145La petjada de tico6a+ *15
146For ever?7c  
147Siniestra danza7c  
148Snake-men6c 2
149Erosión6a *20
150Centenario de vias6a+ 4
151Ivana6b  
152Lour6a+  

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