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MedjiValais East, SWITZERLAND
Climbs 30 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude 1521m a.s.l – Faces E
The routes are about 20 routes up to 90 meters long and between 6 and 7b. They were set up by Raoul Bayard, Eric and Mike Burgener Pointner. The best time of year is in spring and autumn. Ideally youíll want to take 60-meter half ropes; most routes are furnished with bolts. Nuts and friends are not absolutely necessary but a sensible addition depending on the route.
Awesome crag! Offers some of the best single pitch crack routes in Switzerland!!! To bad most cracks are bolted! But never mind! just skip the bolts and place a few good camelots. You'll also find good 2-4 pitch climbs. A 70m singe rope is useful.
Advice Note: In the bands are loose stones be careful when puling ropes through.
There is a route book at the foot of the wall with the latest Topo.
Further Info here: http://www.st-niklaus.ch/site/index.php/links
Climbs at this crag
40 min walk from St Niklaus train station (directions and topo from the tourist info office). Walk south out of town on the west side of the river next to to railway track. Keep going to past Birchmatte and take path next to chapel signposted to Medji. Walk up the hill climbing around 200m to the base of the crag.
By public transport: Train to St. Nicholas, from there itís to 40 minutes to the crag.
By car: From Visp to Zermatt to St. Nicholas, the village continues to Stalu, 20 meters further to the carpenter's Ferrari-Biner, turn right, a Gravel track and a few hairpin bends to the left, parking there is currently tolerated.
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