A cairn above Crummackdale © Lankyman
There are few notable feature so look out for the stone wall about a third of the way from the right end of the crag. 9m right of this is the corner of Epicure and 9m left of the wall is the large corner of Snowcem. 28m left of the wall is a flake crack which leads to the centre of the slabby grey area.
North of Austwick a grassy lane leads left to Crummock. Park near here.
|The current Yorkshire Limestone guide has a very confusing crag diagram. Best to get on the Leeds Wall website and download the modified version. Or see http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=148482|
Rog Wilko - 01/Jul/10
Looking at the guide, you'd think this crag to be awash with 3* star classics. 'Little pink clare', 'Venus' and 'Olympus' definately meet this critera, sadly this is not the case for many of the other routes.
The flakes at the start of 'Arc De triumph' make for a scary and unprotected outing with a severe ground fall potential from around 4 meters. And after loose rock on the start to 'feeling the pinch', you arrive at in-situ wires in the roof which are certainly showing their age and taking up the best spot for your own gear. Many of the routes on the left hand edge are being reclaimed by nature, leaving on the high E grade routes on clean rock.
My advice would be not to hype it up too much before you go, be prepared to tick 4 or 5 good routes and be happy with it. It is not a 15 min walk in as suggested by the rockfax website, anticipate a 30min walk with a pack uphill.|
Dan-gerMouse - 18/Jun/07