Climbs 139
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 104m a.s.l
Faces all

Calanques - en Vau to the turquoise Med sea © brianrunner

Crag features

The most classical of all the Calanques, a Mediterranean paradise that has suffered because of its beauty, it is best avoided on sunny summer weekends when the small beach can end up jammed with 'seekers of solitude'. The authorities have made access to the Calanque more difficult as the years have gone by, moving the nearest parking further away, though boat access from Cassis remains the easiest way in. Boats are not allowed to approach the beach, a commando assault will be required. 

The climbing here is excellent, varied and in a wonderful situation, though inevitably the most popular climbs have become polished in the 100 plus years climbers have been visiting the place. Many of the routes are only partly bolted, a light trad rack will be needed for these.

The recessed nature of En Vau makes it a good bet on windy days and, as the cliffs face in different directions, both sun and shade are normally on offer. In winter the base of the calanque sees precious little sun, though the higher walls are a better bet. La Face du Grand Rappel is in the shade from mid-morning, a boon on steamy summer days. Seepage is normally not an issue here.

Approach notes

Option 1 - The usual climbers' approach is from the extensive parking at the Col de la Gardiole. This is reached by locating a small innocuous turn off the D559 Cassis to Marseille road called appropriately 'Rue de Gaston Rebuffat'. From the parking, walk down past the Forestry House and drop down either of two narrow valleys that lead all the way down to the sea - 40 minutes. 

A return can be made from the plateau to the north of the Calanque by way of good tracks that lead past the Youth Hostel and back to the parking.

Option 2 - The approach from Cassis, via parking at Port Miou and the GR 98-51 is shorter but uphill and down-dale.

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Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
We used the standard 40 minute walk approach from Rue de Gaston Rebuffat. This felt safe as there are plenty of cars parked there and there was a park ranger at the carpark. Lovely scenic crags.
brianrunner - 02/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 *Le Pouce* 
2Le pouce normal4a **5
3Le pouce intégral6a ***7
4La paume6b+ *** 
5Les petits Suisses6c *** 
6La brioche5c **5
7Direct de la brioche6b+ * 
 *La Grande Aiguille* 
9Le Surplomb5c 1
10La Paillon
-
4a 5
11Le G.H.M.
-
5c **6
12L'A.M.E.
-
4a 4
13Voie Abeille
-
3+ 5
 *La Sirène* 
15Arivée impromtue5c **2
16Sirène barrin4c **6
17Plasma6b **1
18Moitié moitié5c **7
19Sirène liautard4c ***24
20La Reforme6a 1
21Super Sirène6b ***20
22Couloir de la Sirène5c * 
23Pilier de la Sirène5c *2
24Les Capes5c  
25La Sans Nom4a 13
26Directe de la Sans Nom6c  
27Pilier de la Sans Nom5a  
 *La Petite Aiguille and La Saphir* 
29Le tord boyau5c *3
30Variante Nord-Ouest5c 1
31La Face Nord-Ouest5c *7
32La B.B.6a 2
33La directe5a *9
34La ratopenado4a *13
35La diagonal6a+ *5
36Directe de la diagonal6a *2
37Face à la mer5c *4
38La Saphir5a ***42
39La sortie des artists5c *1
40Direct de la pierre fine5c *1
 *Dalle du Chat* 
42Le Train Sauvage
-
7a 2
43Le Gynecologue
-
6b 3
44Passagers du Vent
-
6b  
45Troisième Sexe
-
6b+ 1
46Sale Temps pour les Nains
-
5c 3
 *Dalle de la Conversation* 
48La Grotte d'Ali Baba5a  
49La conversation6a **5
50La constipation6b+ ***4
51Yoghourt acide7a *1
52Overdance6c ***2
53Nenesse le Bienheureux
-
6b  
107Pilier droite de la Passerelle6a **5
108Super-doume6c **1
109La Mimi
-
6c  
 *Conan* 
111La Conan
-
6b *3
112La Pancarte
-
5c 4
113Super Deux Veuves
-
7b * 
114La Plou Belle
-
7a+ *1
115Le Phallus
-
6b+ ** 
 *Les Sans Souci* 
117Arête Save Integrale6a+ 2
118Les Sans Souci Integral5c 4
119Pilier de la Bretelle6b  
120La Rostand5a  
 *Port Miou* 
 Calendal 
123Matilde
-
4c 4
124San-San
-
5c 2
125Hugo
-
5c 5
126Christa
-
5c 3
127Menthe à l'Eau
-
5a 6
128Scene de Panique Tranquille
-
6b+  
129Aminoacide
-
6c  
130Une Gretchen pour Olive
-
6b 2
131Les Mollets d'Affreux 'Dite'
-
5c 2
132Ombre et Lumière
-
6b+  
133Affaire Classée
-
6a+ 1
134Sortez vos Angoisses
-
7a  
135Fleur de Vie
-
7a+  
136En Route pour la Joie
-
6c+  
137XY
-
6c  
138Etat Sauvage
-
7b  
139Plats du Jour
-
6b 1
140La Micro
-
6a  
141Zoë
-
4c  
 Vallon 
143Charlemagne
-
6b+  
144Cœur de Lyon
-
7a  
145Recreation
-
6a  
146Noces de Sang
-
7a  
147Noces Barbares
-
6c+  
148Le Lézard
-
5c 5
149Spitophile
-
6b 1
150Maître Corbeau
-
6a  
151Grenouille
-
6a  
152Lily Marlene
-
6b  
153Pin Aid
-
5c 3
154La Tamponette
-
5a 5
155En Catimini
-
5a 6
156Exil Américain
-
5c 6
157Arête de Poisson
-
5c 5

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