Creigiau Cigfran features natural microdiorite with sport climbs up to 43 metres over several sectors including what is reputedly "the best sport climb in North Wales" - Release the Hounds.
The sectors are:
Park at Pendalar on the eastern outskirts of Llanfairfechan and head up past a playground into the country park. Immediately turn left and head for the old quarry incline which is visible towards the east of the town. The incline leads to a good track which contours the hillside and the main crag is above this a short distance further east. It is on land mapped as "open access".
For Black Slab and Fence Buttress follow the regular access route 100 m along the contouring track (just beyond the "low fence supports" sign). From here follow a small track R up an overgrown incline to an old winding house. Fence Buttress is above the large mesh fence part way up this incline. For Black Slab traverse the hillside R from just above the winding house on a faint path. The slab is just beyond the first sharp rock rib.
|1||Gadaffi the Diplomat||6c+ *||2|
|2||Osama Bin Bin Bag||6c+||3|
|3||The Last Waltz||6a *||20|
|4||Great Wall||6b **||23|
|5||Great Wall Direct||6c+ *||4|
|6||All the Year Round||6c|
|7||The Hunt||6c+ ***||34|
|8||Release the Hounds||7c ***||18|
|9||Black Slab (was Camouflage Slab)||6a *||1|
|10||Dark Matter||6a+ *||2|
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|The North Wales Limestone guide is incorrect for the approach to Release the Hounds etc. from Llanfairfechan. At the entrance to the country park turn left on the blue path not right.|
rockcat - 26/Jul/15
|To get to Camouflage Slab follow the usual approach to the "low fence supports" on the final horizontal section then head R up an old incline to a winding house. Just above the winding house follow a faint path R across the hillside until below the slab, which lies just past the first prominent (sharp) rock rib above the path. The slab is always black even when dry.|
harold walmsley - 24/Sep/14
|The new A55 climb book says to go right through the large black gate. Don't - it should say left!! Follow the turquoise waymark arrows until you reach a fence. This is a tall wire one, with a wirecuttered hole ripped in it. Go though the hole then bushwhack up a rough path to the incline.|
hms - 24/Jul/12