Craigiau Cigfran

Climbs 11 – Rocktype Diorites – Altitude 180m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Criagiau Cigfran features natural microdiorite with sport climbs up to 30 metres over several sectors including what is reputedly "the best sport climb in North Wales" - Release the Hounds.

The sectors are:

Diplomatic Area

Last Waltz

Great Wall

Hounds Area

Camouflage Slab Area

Access notes
Park on Pendalar on the outskirts of Llanfairfechan and head for the old quarry incline which is visible towards the east of the town. The incline leads to a good track which contours the hillside and the crag is above this a short distance further east. It is on land mapped as "open access".

For Camouflage Slab follow the regular access route until a short distance along the contouring track (just beyond the "low fence supports" sign). From here follow a small track R up an overgrown incline to an old winding house. From just above this, traverse the hillside R on a faint path to the slab which is just beyond the first sharp rock rib.

North Wales Limestone (2014), A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
7The Hunt6c+ ***32
8Release the Hounds7c ***18
9At the Heart of it AllE6 6b **2
10A Tetris Temperament *7b **4
11Camouflage Slab *6a *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer rockcat

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To get to Camouflage Slab follow the usual approach to the "low fence supports" on the final horizontal section then head R up an old incline to a winding house. Just above the winding house follow a faint path R across the hillside until below the slab, which lies just past the first prominent (sharp) rock rib above the path. The slab is always black even when dry.
harold walmsley - 24/Sep/14
The new A55 climb book says to go right through the large black gate. Don't - it should say left!! Follow the turquoise waymark arrows until you reach a fence. This is a tall wire one, with a wirecuttered hole ripped in it. Go though the hole then bushwhack up a rough path to the incline.
hms - 24/Jul/12