Smugglers Terrace

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 163m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
A series of buttresses crowning a large plateau below the village of Ravenscar. There are several buttresses currently undergoing development. The quality of lines vary massively, though many strong lines, especially in the lower grades still remain. Much of the rock is clean, though cracklines and top outs are often vegetated on unclimbed lines. There is currently around 40 routes with that number set to double (mainly in the lower grades).

The crags take little drainage and are solid in the main. Overall it is quick drying and offers good conditions in the heat of summer and the cold and dry of winter - a true all round venue. However, the crag is brackenous in summer, though regular walking of the paths will keep them clear of bracken and in good order. NOTE: Ticks are common in brackenous areas.

*** The best approach is to walk past the lone house towards the hotel before cutting into bushes after the second bush in the field left of the path at a yellow topped marker post - follow a slippery footpath down til the crags come into view - marked on OS maps. ***

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

To access Contraband from above, walk towards the Ravenscar Hotel from the village parking before cutting down to the right through bushes at red and white marker tape, around 40m before the lone house on the left. An old piece of sheet metal is found at the top of Contraband Buttress. Abseil in.

For Illusion Buttress and Evasion Buttress head 10m beyond the house then drop down the hillside when a blue marker is seen in the trees. Evasion drops straight down from this point, while Illusion is found walking left to a piece of plastic 'pointing the way'. Abseil in.

There is also a fishermans access down lines below the Cleveland Way sign, adjacent to the village parking.

All the approaches will be fine once the crag gets a few visits each month to keep them well trodden. All the unclimbed lines are fair game though generally very vegetated - get on it! However, obvious route cleaning would suggest someone else is 'on with it'.

Access notes
See crag description. An affinity with the crag is extremely useful!

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE FAR LEFT  
 THE FOX HOLES  
3Mackerel CrackMVS 4a *1
4Dolphin In The BlowholeE1 5b 1
5CorsairE3 5c 3
 EASTER ISLAND BUTTRESS (AKA THE LONG-FACED MAN)  
7Billet The KidE5 6a **4
8The Tormented SoleE7 6b ***5
9The Colossusf7A+ *** 
 AURORA BUTTRESS  
11PrivateelE5 6a 1
12Sea KingE1 5b *5
13Consolation CrackVS 4b  
14Anniversary ClimbHVS 5b * 
15OlympiaHVS 5b *1
16BorealisE4 6a 1
17Aurora Crack VariationVS 4c 1
18Aurora CrackHS 4b *3
19East ParadeHVD 1
 CONTRABAND BUTTRESS  
21Black BeardHVS 5b 2
22Long John SilverE2 5b *2
23Pie AreteE3 5c *4
24Contraband CrackHVS 5a **6
25PsychosisE4 6a ***3
 COUNTERFEIT BUTTRESS  
27ChiassoE1 5c 2
 EVASION BUTTRESS  
29Marbled in StoneE2 5c *1
30Ai No BarramundiE4 6a *2
31No Ifs No HalibutsE3 6a 1
32License to KrillE5 6b 3
33Clew GarnetMVS 4b *2
34Twiggy's JukeboxVS 4c *3
35LeviathanE5 6c ***1
36EmersionE4 5c **2
37Mullet of CocktailE2 5c *2
 ILLUSION BUTTRESS  
39The Salmon of DoubtMVS 4c *1
40Turbot ChargerE5 6b *2
41The BasstardE6 6c **3
42Halcyon DaceE2 5c *1
43Six Of The BestS * 
44A Plaice Lost In TimeE3 5c ***4
45Porpoise EconomyE6 6b **2
46The Swordfish of a Thousand TruthsE2 6a 2
47The Hake ShakeE2 5b 2
 GENOA  
 WANG POINT  
 PROJEKTS  
51The Big Groove *HVS 5a  
52Tower Left *VS 4c  
53Tower Right *VS 4b  
54Easter Island Crack *HVS 5b  
55Squid Vicious *E8 7a  
56Sole Traverse *E4 5c  
57Privateel Groove *MVS 4b  
58Contraband Crack Arete Finish *E2 5c  
59Contraband Left Crack *HVS 5a  
60Contraband Right Crack *HVS 5b  
61Flake Direct *E1 5b  
62Overhanging Crack *HVS 5b  
63Pseudo-Inverted V *VS 4c  
64Pseudo-Inverted V Finger Crack Finish *HVS 5a  
65Bold Arete *E6 6a  
66Evasion Crack *VS 4c  
67Narrow Buttress *E5 5c  
68Natural Born Krillers *E6 6b  
69Smuggler's Wall Project *E10 7a  
70Ravenscare *E6 6a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Warburton

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/smugglers-terrace-goathland-guides.html
Dave Warburton - 07/Jan/14
Amazing location, loads of stuff to keep you busy, climbing a offwidth crack starting a cave to the left of Easter island buttress, awesome climb but nightmare on the top out
1176gws - 13/Nov/13
Great crag, offering some fab routes. Loads more to go at.
Franco Cookson - 31/Oct/12
Now home to some excellent and varied climbing, with plenty left to do throughout the grades. This and Stoupe Brow offer good sandstone climbing on the coast!
Dave Warburton - 12/Aug/12
Be carefull when trying to put up new routes here. It is wise to abseil the routes before climbing them. Yesterday, Whilst trying to onsight a new route left of the contraband butress, I got caught it a wee rock fall! (be wary of the cracks with the debris below)
Sam Marks - 13/Feb/12