Smugglers Terrace

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 163m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
A series of buttresses crowning a large plateau below the village of Ravenscar. There are several buttresses currently undergoing development. There are many strong lines, especially in the low to mid E-grades. Much of the lower grade lines remain unclimbed, though when they are the crag will be one of the premier venues of the area. Get involved!

Much of the rock is clean, though cracklines and top outs are often vegetated on unclimbed lines. There is currently around 40 routes with that number set to double (mainly in the lower grades).

The crags take little drainage and are solid in the main. Overall it is quick drying and offers good conditions in the heat of summer and the cold and dry of winter - a true all round venue. However, the crag is brackenous in summer, though regular walking of the paths will keep them clear of bracken and in good order. NOTE: Ticks are common!

*** The best approach is to walk past the lone house towards the hotel before cutting into bushes after the second bush in the field left of the path at a yellow topped marker post - follow a slippery footpath down til the crags come into view - marked on OS maps. ***

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

To access Contraband from above, walk towards the Ravenscar Hotel from the village parking before cutting down to the right through bushes at red and white marker tape, around 40m before the lone house on the left. An old piece of sheet metal is found at the top of Contraband Buttress. Abseil in.

For Illusion Buttress and Evasion Buttress head 10m beyond the house then drop down the hillside when a blue marker is seen in the trees. Evasion drops straight down from this point, while Illusion is found walking left to a piece of plastic 'pointing the way'. Abseil in.

There is also a fishermans access down lines below the Cleveland Way sign, adjacent to the village parking.

All the approaches will be fine once the crag gets a few visits each month to keep them well trodden. All the unclimbed lines are fair game though generally very vegetated - get on it! However, obvious route cleaning would suggest someone else is 'on with it'.

Access notes
See crag description. An affinity with the crag is extremely useful!

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
3Herring AidHVS 5b *
4The Hakey CokeyVS 4c *
5Hard of HerringHVS 4c *
6Mackerel CrackMVS 4a *
7Dolphin In The BlowholeE1 5b
8CorsairE3 5c
10Hake ExpectationsHVS 5a
11Billet The KidE5 6a **
12The Tormented SoleE7 6b ***
13The Colossusf7A+ **
14Life is Lifef7B+ ***
16Dolphinately MaybeE5 6a
17Sea KingE1 5b *
18Consolation CrackVS 4b
19Anniversary ClimbHVS 5b *
20OlympiaHVS 5b
21BorealisE4 6a
22Aurora Crack VariationVS 4c
23Aurora CrackHS 4b *
24East ParadeHVD
26Black BeardHVS 5b
27Long John SilverE2 5b *
28Pie AreteE3 5c
29Contraband CrackHVS 5a **
30Contraband Crack Arete FinishE1 5c
31PsychosisE4 6a ***
33ChiassoE1 5c *
35Silence of the Clamsf6C
36Babel FishHVS 5b *
37Marbled in StoneE2 5b *
38Ai No BarramundiE4 6a **
39No Ifs No HalibutsE3 6a
40So Long, And Thanks For All The FishHVS 5b **
41Krill ZoneE6 6c **
42Kelp The Youngf7A+ *
43License to KrillE5 6b
44Clew GarnetMVS 4b *
45Twiggy's JukeboxVS 4c *
46LeviathanE5 6c ***
47EmersionE4 5c **
48Mullet of CocktailE2 5c
49I've Haddock With Fish Puns!VS 4b *
51The Salmon of DoubtVS 4c
52Turbot ChargerE5 6b
53The BasstardE6 6c **
54Halcyon DaceE2 5c
55Six Of The BestS *
56A Plaice Lost In TimeE3 5c ***
57Porpoise EconomyE6 6b **
58RavenscareE5 5c *
59The Swordfish of a Thousand TruthsE2 6a
60The Hake ShakeE2 5b
64Slabby Arete *E3 5b
65Squid Vicious *E8 7a
66Sole Traverse *E4 5c
67Privateel Groove *MVS 4b
68Contraband Left Crack *HVS 5a
69Contraband Right Crack *HVS 5b
70Pseudo-Inverted V *VS 4c
71Pseudo-Inverted V Finger Crack Finish *HVS 5a
72Black Arete *E3 5c
73Narrow Buttress *E5 5c
74Smuggler's Wall Project *E10 7a
75Natural Born Krillers *E2 5c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Warburton

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Dave Warburton - 07/Jan/14
Amazing location, loads of stuff to keep you busy, climbing a offwidth crack starting a cave to the left of Easter island buttress, awesome climb but nightmare on the top out
1176gws - 13/Nov/13
Great crag, offering some fab routes. Loads more to go at.
Franco Cookson - 31/Oct/12
Now home to some excellent and varied climbing, with plenty left to do throughout the grades. This and Stoupe Brow offer good sandstone climbing on the coast!
Dave Warburton - 12/Aug/12
Be carefull when trying to put up new routes here. It is wise to abseil the routes before climbing them. Yesterday, Whilst trying to onsight a new route left of the contraband butress, I got caught it a wee rock fall! (be wary of the cracks with the debris below)
Sam Marks - 13/Feb/12
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 22/Oct/2014

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