Climbs 101
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 163m a.s.l
Faces E

Another New Line Down On The Coast © Franco Cookson

Crag features

A series of buttresses crowning a large plateau below the village of Ravenscar. There are several buttresses currently undergoing development. There are many strong lines, especially in the low to mid E-grades. Much of the lower grade lines remain unclimbed, though when they are the crag will be one of the premier venues of the area. Get involved!

Much of the rock is clean, though cracklines and top outs are often vegetated on unclimbed lines. There is currently around 40 routes with that number set to double (mainly in the lower grades).

The crags take little drainage and are solid in the main. Overall it is quick drying and offers good conditions in the heat of summer and the cold and dry of winter - a true all round venue. However, the crag is brackenous in summer, though regular walking of the paths will keep them clear of bracken and in good order. NOTE: Ticks are common!

Approach the village of Ravenscar from the A171 and upon arrival in the village bear right past the Raven Hall Hotel to park at Station Square. Follow the Cleveland Way north-west back towards the hotel. When passing a second lone bush on the left of the path at a short downhill section, a yellow-topped marker post should be present on the right. A vague track leads to the crag through the trees.

Alternatively, a ‘fishermans line’ leads down from the Cleveland Way sign or cut straight down the hillside to the top of your buttress of choice.

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

To access Contraband from above, walk towards the Ravenscar Hotel from the village parking before cutting down to the right through bushes at red and white marker tape, around 40m before the lone house on the left. An old piece of sheet metal is found at the top of Contraband Buttress. Abseil in.

For Illusion Buttress and Evasion Buttress head 10m beyond the house then drop down the hillside when a blue marker is seen in the trees. Evasion drops straight down from this point, while Illusion is found walking left to a piece of plastic 'pointing the way'. Abseil in.

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

All the approaches will be fine once the crag gets a few visits each month to keep them well trodden. All the unclimbed lines are fair game though generally very vegetated - get on it! However, obvious route cleaning would suggest someone else is 'on with it'.

Approach notes

See crag description. An affinity with the crag is extremely useful!

http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/smugglers-terrace-mini-guide.html

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

http://climbonline.co.uk/PDFs/NYM%20Mini%20Guides/Smugglers%20Terrace2014Oct.pdf
Simon Caldwell - 17/May/15
Amazing location, loads of stuff to keep you busy, climbing a offwidth crack starting a cave to the left of Easter island buttress, awesome climb but nightmare on the top out
1176gws - 13/Nov/13
Great crag, offering some fab routes. Loads more to go at.
Franco Cookson - 31/Oct/12
Now home to some excellent and varied climbing, with plenty left to do throughout the grades. This and Stoupe Brow offer good sandstone climbing on the coast!
Dave Warburton - 12/Aug/12
Be carefull when trying to put up new routes here. It is wise to abseil the routes before climbing them. Yesterday, Whilst trying to onsight a new route left of the contraband butress, I got caught it a wee rock fall! (be wary of the cracks with the debris below)
Sam Marks - 13/Feb/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Smith's Buttress 
2Machette *f5 1
3Gondwanaland *f5 1
4Pangea *
-
f6C  
5Anterior Portion *
-
f6C * 
 Collision Wall 
7Africa Collides *
-
f7B * 
8Strata Smith *
-
f5+ 1
 The Lookout 
10Tertiary Tension *f5+ 2
11Fossil Hammer *f5+ 1
12Ammonite *
-
f6A *1
13The Roar *
-
f6B+  
 The Grotto 
15Wolf Fish *
-
f5  
16The Lookout *
-
f6B  
 The Fox Holes 
18Herring AidHVS 5b *1
19The Hakey CokeyVS 4c *1
20Hard of HerringHVS 4c *3
21Mackerel CrackMVS 4a *2
22Dolphin In The BlowholeE1 5b 1
23CorsairE3 5c 3
 Easter Island Buttress (AKA The Long-Faced Man) 
25Hake ExpectationsHVS 5a 1
26Billet The KidE5 6a **6
27The Tormented SoleE7 6b ***5
28Squid ViciousE7 6c ***1
29The Colossusf7A+ **1
30Life is Lifef7B+ *** 
 Aurora Buttress 
32Dolphinately MaybeE5 6a 1
33Sea KingE1 5b *6
34Consolation CrackVS 4b  
35Anniversary ClimbHVS 5b * 
36OlympiaHVS 5b 1
37BorealisE4 6a 1
38Aurora Crack VariationVS 4c 1
39Aurora CrackHS 4b *4
40East ParadeHVD 2
41Living the BreamE1 5b 3
 Contraband Buttress 
43Black BeardE1 5b 6
44Long John SilverE2 5b *3
45Pie AreteE3 5c 4
46Contraband CrackHVS 5a **10
47Contraband Crack Arete FinishE1 5c 1
48PsychosisE4 6a ***7
49Mr FishbitzVS 4c *1
 Counterfeit Buttress 
51ChiassoE1 5c *2
 Evasion Buttress 
53Silence of the Clamsf6C 2
54Babel FishHVS 5b *3
55Marbled in StoneE2 5b *4
56Ai No BarramundiE4 6a *4
57No Ifs No HalibutsE4 6a *1
58So Long, And Thanks For All The FishHVS 5b **4
59Krill ZoneE7 6c **2
60Kelp The Youngf7A+ 1
61License to KrillE5 6b 4
62Clew GarnetMVS 4b *4
63Twiggy's JukeboxVS 4c *4
64LeviathanE5 6c ***1
65EmersionE4 5c **2
66HullabelugaVS 4c *2
67Hullabeluga (Finger Crack Finish)none 5b?  
68Cards Against HumanateeE2 5c *4
69Mullet of CocktailE2 5c *2
70I've Haddock With Fish Puns!VS 4b 1
71No Plaice To Hang AroundE4 5c 1
 Illusion Buttress 
73The Salmon of DoubtVS 4c 1
74Turbot ChargerE5 6b 2
75The BasstardE6 6c **3
76Illusion Wall ProjectE8 7a/b  
77Halcyon DaceE2 5c 1
78Six Of The BestS *1
79A Plaice Lost In TimeE3 5c ***7
80Porpoise EconomyE5 6a **4
81RavenscareE5 5c *1
82The Swordfish of a Thousand TruthsE2 6a 2
83The Hake ShakeE2 5b 2
 Genoa 
 Wang Point 
 Projekts 
87Slabby Arete *E3 5b  
88Sole Traverse *E4 5c  
89Privateel Groove *MVS 4b  
90Contraband Left Crack *
-
HVS 5a  
91Smuggler's Wall ProjectE6 7a  
92Natural Born KrillersE2 5c  
 Allosaurus Wall 
94Clever Girls
-
f6B+ *1
95Devil's Toenail
-
f4+  
96Feathered Friends
-
f5 1
97Biotic Crisisf6C+ **2
98Chaos Theoryf6C  
99Toarcian Turnoverf6C * 
 Plesiosaurus 
101Monkey Puzzlef6A 1
102Monkey Puzzle (Standing)
-
f5+ 1
103Supratemporalf6B *1
 Megalosaurus 
105Sands of Time
-
f3 1
106Beachcomaf6A *1
107Beachcoma (Standing)
-
f5 *2
108Amberf6B+ * 
109Amber (Standing)
-
f5 1
110DNA
-
f5+ *1
111Extinct
-
f5+ *1
112Whitby Jet
-
f4+ 2
113Belemnite
-
f6A  
114Belemnite Dreams
-
f6B+ *1
115Anticline
-
f6B 1
 T-Rex 
117Pale Riderf7C * 
 Brachiosaurus 
119Mad Dogf7C * 
 Stegosaurus 
121Coprolitef6A+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Warburton