Smugglers Terrace

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 163m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
A series of buttresses crowning a large plateau below the village of Ravenscar. There are several buttresses currently undergoing development. There are many strong lines, especially in the low to mid E-grades. Much of the lower grade lines remain unclimbed, though when they are the crag will be one of the premier venues of the area. Get involved!

Much of the rock is clean, though cracklines and top outs are often vegetated on unclimbed lines. There is currently around 40 routes with that number set to double (mainly in the lower grades).

The crags take little drainage and are solid in the main. Overall it is quick drying and offers good conditions in the heat of summer and the cold and dry of winter - a true all round venue. However, the crag is brackenous in summer, though regular walking of the paths will keep them clear of bracken and in good order. NOTE: Ticks are common!

Approach the village of Ravenscar from the A171 and upon arrival in the village bear right past the Raven Hall Hotel to park at Station Square. Follow the Cleveland Way north-west back towards the hotel. When passing a second lone bush on the left of the path at a short downhill section, a yellow-topped marker post should be present on the right. A vague track leads to the crag through the trees.

Alternatively, a ‘fishermans line’ leads down from the Cleveland Way sign or cut straight down the hillside to the top of your buttress of choice.

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

To access Contraband from above, walk towards the Ravenscar Hotel from the village parking before cutting down to the right through bushes at red and white marker tape, around 40m before the lone house on the left. An old piece of sheet metal is found at the top of Contraband Buttress. Abseil in.

For Illusion Buttress and Evasion Buttress head 10m beyond the house then drop down the hillside when a blue marker is seen in the trees. Evasion drops straight down from this point, while Illusion is found walking left to a piece of plastic 'pointing the way'. Abseil in.

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

All the approaches will be fine once the crag gets a few visits each month to keep them well trodden. All the unclimbed lines are fair game though generally very vegetated - get on it! However, obvious route cleaning would suggest someone else is 'on with it'.

Access notes
See crag description. An affinity with the crag is extremely useful!

http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/smugglers-terrace-mini-guide.html

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SMITH'S BUTTRESS  
2Machette *f5  
3Gondwanaland *f5  
4Pangea *f6C  
5Anterior Portion *f6C * 
 COLLISION WALL  
7Africa Collides *f7B * 
8Strata Smith *f5+  
 THE LOOKOUT  
10Tertiary Tension *f5+ 1
11Fossil Hammer *f5+  
12Ammonite *f6A *1
13The Roar *f6B+  
 THE GROTTO  
15Wolf Fish *f5  
16The Lookout *f6B  
 THE FOX HOLES  
18Herring AidHVS 5b *1
19The Hakey CokeyVS 4c *1
20Hard of HerringHVS 4c *2
21Mackerel CrackMVS 4a *2
22Dolphin In The BlowholeE1 5b 1
23CorsairE3 5c 3
 EASTER ISLAND BUTTRESS (AKA THE LONG-FACED MAN)  
25Hake ExpectationsHVS 5a 1
26Billet The KidE5 6a **4
27The Tormented SoleE7 6b ***5
28The Colossusf7A+ ** 
29Life is Lifef7B+ *** 
 AURORA BUTTRESS  
31Dolphinately MaybeE5 6a 1
32Sea KingE1 5b *5
33Consolation CrackVS 4b  
34Anniversary ClimbHVS 5b * 
35OlympiaHVS 5b 1
36BorealisE4 6a 1
37Aurora Crack VariationVS 4c 1
38Aurora CrackHS 4b *4
39East ParadeHVD 1
40Living the BreamE1 5b 1
 CONTRABAND BUTTRESS  
42Black BeardE1 5b 4
43Long John SilverE2 5b *3
44Pie AreteE3 5c 4
45Contraband CrackHVS 5a **8
46Contraband Crack Arete FinishE1 5c 1
47PsychosisE4 6a ***3
48Mr FishbitzVS 4c **1
 COUNTERFEIT BUTTRESS  
50ChiassoE1 5c *2
 EVASION BUTTRESS  
52Silence of the Clamsf6C 1
53Babel FishHVS 5b *1
54Marbled in StoneE2 5b *3
55Ai No BarramundiE4 6a **4
56No Ifs No HalibutsE3 6a 1
57So Long, And Thanks For All The FishHVS 5b **3
58Krill ZoneE6 6c **2
59Kelp The Youngf7A+ *1
60License to KrillE5 6b 4
61Clew GarnetMVS 4b *4
62Twiggy's JukeboxVS 4c *3
63LeviathanE5 6c ***1
64EmersionE4 5c **2
65Mullet of CocktailE2 5c *2
66I've Haddock With Fish Puns!VS 4b *1
67No Plaice To Hang AroundE4 5c *1
 ILLUSION BUTTRESS  
69The Salmon of DoubtVS 4c 1
70Turbot ChargerE5 6b 2
71The BasstardE6 6c **3
72Halcyon DaceE2 5c 1
73Six Of The BestS *1
74A Plaice Lost In TimeE3 5c ***4
75Porpoise EconomyE6 6b **2
76RavenscareE5 5c *1
77The Swordfish of a Thousand TruthsE2 6a 2
78The Hake ShakeE2 5b 2
 GENOA  
 WANG POINT  
 PROJEKTS  
82Slabby Arete *E3 5b  
83Squid Vicious *E8 7a  
84Sole Traverse *E4 5c  
85Privateel Groove *MVS 4b  
86Contraband Left Crack *HVS 5a  
87Contraband Right Crack *VS 4c  
88Pseudo-Inverted V *VS 4c  
89Pseudo-Inverted V Finger Crack Finish *HVS 5a  
90Black Arete *E3 5c 1
91Smuggler's Wall Project *E10 7a  
92Natural Born Krillers *E2 5c  
 ALLOSAURUS WALL  
94Clever Girls *f6B+ *1
95Devil's Toenail *f4+  
96Feathered Friends *f5 1
97Biotic Crisis *f6C+ **1
98Chaos Theory *f6C  
99Toarcian Turnover *f6C * 
 PLESIOSAURUS  
101Monkey Puzzle *f6A 1
102Monkey Puzzle (Standing) *f5+ 1
103Supratemporal *f6B *1
 MEGALOSAURUS  
105Sands of Time *f3 1
106Beachcoma *f6A *1
107Beachcoma (Standing) *f5 *1
108Amber *f6B+ * 
109Amber (Standing) *f5  
110DNA *f5+ *1
111Extinct *f5+ *1
112Whitby Jet *f4+ 1
113Belemnite *f6A  
114Belemnite Dreams *f6B+ * 
115Anticline *f6B 1
 T-REX  
117Pale Rider *f7C * 
 BRACHIOSAURUS  
119Mad Dog *f7C * 
 STEGOSAURUS  
121Coprolite *f6A+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Warburton

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http://climbonline.co.uk/PDFs/NYM%20Mini%20Guides/Smugglers%20Terrace2014Oct.pdf
Simon Caldwell - 17/May/15
Amazing location, loads of stuff to keep you busy, climbing a offwidth crack starting a cave to the left of Easter island buttress, awesome climb but nightmare on the top out
1176gws - 13/Nov/13
Great crag, offering some fab routes. Loads more to go at.
Franco Cookson - 31/Oct/12
Now home to some excellent and varied climbing, with plenty left to do throughout the grades. This and Stoupe Brow offer good sandstone climbing on the coast!
Dave Warburton - 12/Aug/12
Be carefull when trying to put up new routes here. It is wise to abseil the routes before climbing them. Yesterday, Whilst trying to onsight a new route left of the contraband butress, I got caught it a wee rock fall! (be wary of the cracks with the debris below)
Sam Marks - 13/Feb/12