Climbs 77
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 593m a.s.l
Faces W

Kasamyra Sainsbury on Buff © Thomas Ball

Crag features

The elongated hulk of Alaró dominates the view towards the mountains when travelling along the main road that crosses the interior of Mallorca. The small number of existing routes are mostly brilliant and on wonderful rock formations. Sector Chorreras offers 30m pitches up immaculate tufa systems ranging from the pencil-thin to tree-trunk-like. Just to the right, some incredible looking high-grade lines that take the wall above the older slab routes have been established. The other two sectors are not quite as spectacular, but still have some major routes. These include some easier ones on Paret de sa Porta, and some multi-pitch routes on Sector del Medio.

Approach notes

 

Drive into Alaró and pick up signs for 'Castillo d'Alaró'. It is possible to avoid the complex centre if you turn right on entering the town (as shown on the map), but if you miss this, there are other options. Once on the road up the hill it soon turns into a twisting dirt track. Eventually the track arrives at the restaurant. Park here, or, if this is full, at some pull-ins further down the road. For the detailed approaches see the individual sector descriptions. It is also possible to drive on further up the track and park at the top, although this isn't advised as the gate by the restaurant is sometimes shut in the evenings and the track is very rough.

Access Advice

 

The landowners do not permit climbing and there have been problems with access in the distant past particularly on the Paret de sa Porta crags directly below the castle itself. In the more remote sectors, problems are very unlikely to occur. The best advice is to use only the described approaches and to leave if asked.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Mallorca

The main guidebook to the climbing on the island for the last 20 years has been published by Rockfax and this new 2016 edition adds to this legacy with another blockbusting volume for the sun-seeking climber. The sport climbing is being written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is being written by Daimon Beail.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Paret de sa Porta 
2Glue-ins7b+  
3A7b **4
4B7a ***10
5C6c *6
6D6a **25
7Still a Project?7b  
8Esteban7b+ **2
9¿Amigos para siempre?7c+ *** 
10Foam Party7c *** 
11¡Muérete ya!7c *** 
12Project 1Project  
13Zatropeck7c *** 
14Old Bolts7b  
15Aferra el tul6c *7
16Mata guiris7a+ **4
17No res7a+ **5
18Frit6a *19
19Sobrassada5a *25
20Bulge By-pass6a+ **25
21Snowboard5c *26
22Fido-dido6a *19
23Vagon roll4c *10
24Las mallas de cristo5a *12
25Tiddler5c  
26Hola qué tal6a 9
27Far right line6a *1
 Sector del Medio 
29Pitopausico6c  
30Via antigua con burliesProject  
31Triquinosis6c ***2
32Idiot Ballroom7b+ *** 
33Idiot Ballroom (first pitch)
-
6c+ ***1
34Blobs 'n' Bushes7b+ *** 
35Sa curta5c  
36Sa figuereta6b+ **6
37Left Line5c **8
38Right Line6b+ **7
39Wall 'n' Crack6b+ 3
40S'acabat6c ***7
41Lute7a **4
42Superchorrera access6a 6
43Superchorrera7b ***4
44XTR7b+ ***2
45Therapy7b ***2
46Magnum7a+ *** 
 Sector Chorreras 
48Afircaners7b  
49Orion6c+ 1
50Project 1Project  
51Ali-up8a  
52Hob nops7a ***19
53Buf!!7a ***83
54To pa ti7a+ ***34
55Clonción7b ***4
56Pilar7b ***5
57Project 2Project  
 Sector Kiko 
59"DIG FOR GOLD!"6c+ *1
60Lone Ranger7b ** 
61Oh My God7b+ * 
62Slab 16c **22
63Lluvia dorado6b+ *4
64Miko Moko6c *5
65Ramon me ha hecho el avión6a+ *17
66Pincha uvas5c **55
67Pinchas uvas Extension7b+ *** 
68Kiko6a **65
69Grey Slab Left4c 9
70Grey Slab Right4c 8
71Claro de Luna7c *** 
72Influjos Solares7c *** 
73Buitres Negros8a *** 
74Corvus8b *** 
75Paris ConexiónProject  
76Flashback Samurai7c+ *** 
77Poker Face7b+ ***2
78Escamas de Dragon7c *** 
79Xavier7b ** 
80Luna7c ** 
 New Routes - Location Unknown 

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