Climbs 23
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 479m a.s.l
Faces SE

Adam Brown on Sex Cannabis (7b) at Castell de Santueri, Mallorca © Ciaran Tracey

Crag features

Perched high on an isolated hilltop, the crag at Felanitx is a lovely place with wide views and some superb climbing. The crag itself is located on the lower walls of a small hill which is home to a 13th Century Moorish castle. For the most part the rock around the castle offers little for the climber, but on the south east side there is a large vertical wall, covered in small tufas, and a vast cave which tunnels right into the hillside under the castle. All of the routes are in the higher grades with the easiest route being 6c and most much harder. There are two distinct styles to the routes here; firstly, the brutally-steep cave routes that are so beloved by the modern hard climber; and secondly, the slightly overhanging wall climbs that cater for the less powerful player. All of the climbs are well equipped and this is a good place to head for if it is raining, although it does seep after prolonged rainfall. A few of the climbs have chipped or glued-on holds and the longer pitches in the cave are split by various lower-offs and graded accordingly.

Approach notes

May only be possible to climb at weekends or in the evenings due to construction work!



There are seven new crags in the sport climbing section including the superb Es Verger and a number of other great smaller venues. There is also a full new crag's worth of climbing at Puig de Garrafa with quality routes across the grade range. Other crags have new lines and the odd new buttress. added. The guide also contains a full Deep Water Soloing guide which has been updated and now combines the coverage given to Mallorca in the Rockfax Book Deep Water, and the 2008 MiniGuide Mallorca Deep Water Soloing.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
Mallorca (2006)
Tried to climb here a couple of days ago (August 2011). The access is blocked by a building site and high scaffolding to repair the castle walls. We talked to one of the builders (site foreman?). He was pretty unfriendly and said he would call the guardia if we tried to access or climb on the crag which is just round the corner. He said that climbing was banned on the mountain. :-(
shark - 29/Aug/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Es Castell 
2Santueri7c * 
3Pixes8a * 
4Masaix7c+ * 
5Apolis7b+ ***2
6Ra7c **2
7Escuni ezquera7b ***4
8Es Castell7b ***12
9Qwin Tomas6c *13
10Munchescal7a+ *4
 Sector Cueva 
12Picha Boba Direct8a  
13Picha Boba8a ** 
14Scooped Arete8a **1
15Sex cannabis7b ***5
16Antrax8a *** 
17Capitán8b *** 
18Matrix8c *** 
19Vine, vine8a+ ***1
20De Debò7c+ ** 
2118 de Julio8a+ ** 
22Can Moix8a ** 
23Sonrisa Vertical7b ***4
24Guaraná8b ** 
25Monster Block7b  

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