A good newly developed crag with nice routes ranging form 4 to 6c+, including a multi pitch sport route (2 pitch) and fine views over Loch Fleet. The rock is a good and solid conglomerate featuring slabs and some fierce overlapps. Some routes have some lichen but should become cleaner over time. The crag is all bolted with stainless steel bolts and hangers.
About 25m from the parking area by the cattle grid is a boulder with a few routes, if you can find it!
Park by the cattle grid on the Lochbuie road (juntcion just south of the Mound Causeway) just off the A9. Hike SW up the forested ridge, the crag will appear on the right, 20min. Do not get confused with the chossy overgrown crags just visible from the cattle grid.
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015),
Out of print: 7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012)
|1||No More Routes||4c *||9|
|2||Our Routes||5a **||8|
|5||Get Out My Garden||6b *||4|
|6||Heat Wave||6c **||3|
|7||The Moonlighting Meerkat||6c **||3|
|8||Badass Honey Badger||6c+ **||2|
|9||The Early Bird Catches the Worm||E1 5b **||1|
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|There are two routes through the trees and bracken at the bottom. Head in from the cattle grid and go to the right and along past over gorwn boulders. Then continue up through the trees and you will find sheep trails leading up the hill. Follow these up the hill and out the trees and you will eventually see the crag. This approach is steeper and is usually the route that i take on the way down but its got a lot less bracken in the summer.
The other route is to go left from the cattle grid and take a less steep wandering route up through the trees. Its better in winter but a nightmare when the bracken is six foot high.|
GregC - 18/Sep/15
|The bracken gets rather thick in the summer and does hamper progress somewhat but there are ways to avoid the worst by going higher along the slope. The best approach is impossible to describe so I won't attempt it! I did the walk many times with bolting kit, the only time it took a very long time was with a 4 stroke generator we affectionately called Dirty Jenny! It never took 40min otherwise.|
sebrider - 03/Aug/15
|Guidebook approach is vague. Park at cattle grid but walk to the next layby and head into the trees there. Expect to do some serious jungle bashing and its only 20 minutes to the crag once it first appears on the hill, expect 40 minutes and to get wet if its been raining.|
Steve Perry - 12/Jul/15
|Dirty Jenny is now clean! Lots of Bracken during the dummer on the walk in but there is a faint path.|
sebrider - 20/Jul/13