A good newly developed crag with nice routes ranging form 4 to 6c+, including a multi pitch sport route (2 pitch) and fine views over Loch Fleet. The rock is a good and solid conglomerate featuring slabs and some fierce overlapps. Some routes have some lichen but should become cleaner over time. The crag is all bolted with stainless steel bolts and hangers.
About 25m from the parking area by the cattle grid is a boulder with a few routes, if you can find it!
Park by the cattle grid on the Lochbuie road (juntcion just south of the Mound Causeway) just off the A9. Hike SW up the forested ridge, the crag will appear on the right, 20min. Do not get confused with the chossy overgrown crags just visible from the cattle grid.
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015),
Out of print: 7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012)
|1||No More Routes||4c *||8|
|2||Our Routes||5a **||7|
|5||Get Out My Garden||6b *||3|
|6||Heat Wave||6c **||2|
|7||The Moonlighting Meerkat||6c **||2|
|8||Badass Honey Badger||6c+ **||1|
|9||The Early Bird Catches the Worm||E1 5b **||1|
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|Guidebook approach is vague. Park at cattle grid but walk to the next layby and head into the trees there. Expect to do some serious jungle bashing and its only 20 minutes to the crag once it first appears on the hill, expect 40 minutes and to get wet if its been raining.|
Steve Perry - 12/Jul/15
|Dirty Jenny is now clean! Lots of Bracken during the dummer on the walk in but there is a faint path.|
sebrider - 20/Jul/13