Climbs 34
Rocktype Slate

Faces S

The Wall Within © mark reeves

Access Advice

The quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing is offically not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However climbing is tolerated if climbers generally keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who is concerned that continued use by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff. BMC advice remains unchanged -please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Khyber Pass 
2The Wall WithoutE4 6a 1
3Three Steps to Heaven, One Step to HellE4 5c  
4Prometheus UnboundE5 6c * 
5Dragon Slayer7a 1
6XXXposure6a+ 8
 Mordor 
8Josy PussE5 6a  
9Maupin Rey RouteE3 5c  
10Young Man Afraid of HorsesE5 6a  
11Wild HorsesE3 5c  
12Rosen the ChoosenE2 5b  
13Full Metal Jack Off7a+ 1
27Pain KillerE3 6a *2
28Gay lightweights and Hetero Stumpies
-
E5 6a  
29Sauron8b  
30Saruman7a **2
31Harold VoidE2 5b * 
32The Beast in Me7b *** 
33The Black GatesE1 5a **2
34Tick's Groove
-
E6 6b  
35Cutting Back *MVS 4a 1
36Buenos Notches *6a 3
37Fin Fan *6a 3
38Back in the Groove *6b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies