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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref NO 926947 (OS Landranger #38,45)

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These details were last updated on 20/May/2006

Berrymuir Head

Aberdeenshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 50 – Rocktype Mica schist – Altitude Tidal – Faces SE

Crag features
This area is just south of the village of Downies, 9km from Aberdeen, and comprises a series of walls facing east and north, mostly above non-tidal ledges and platforms.

Rock is generally quick to dry and free from nesting birds. Routes up to 30m in length.

Must Dos :

The Niche VS 4c

The Paranormal E3 5c

Upside Downies E5 6b

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath

Guidebooks
North East Outcrops (2003),
Out of print: North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Roof-RoofE4 6a **3
2The ParanormalE3 5c ***12
3Coco the ClownE2 5c **10
4Little Strawberry Went into the SeaE1 5c *1
5Eresless AreteHVS 5b *15
6Bumless WallE1 5b *4
7The NotchHS 6
8NighthawkE2 5c *8
9Nighthawk DirectE3 5c **4
10The X-CrackE3 5c **7
11ExecraterE4 5c **6
12Upside DowniesE5 6b **3
13Downies SyndromeE4 6a **11
14The Flatulent AlienHVS 4c **2
 Climb nameGradex
15The Septic SpacemanE3 5b **1
16Auto de FeE4 5c **9
17The Black ArtE5 6b **5
18The NicheVS 4c ***33
19Twisted NerveHVS 5b **12
20Nervous ImpulseE1 5b 2
21Quick Draw McGrawE1 5b *5
22BobalouieE4 6a **2
23Flatface OriginalHS *4
24Flatface DirectHS *4
25Mega DirectVS 4b *2
26Cosmic CodpieceVS 4c *3
27Black RainE4 6a **1
28Black MagicE3 5c **1
Access notes
The sea nose is tidal. Access is either by a scary grass ridge to the north, or an abseil down the line of Upside Downies (or at low tide, by descending to the south and walking back round the sea nose).

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S ?

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The routes from Bobalouie through to Flatulent Alien did not have any birds on them this year and in all likelihood this is always the case. The wall with X-Crack and Nighthawk did not have any birds nesting on it but there was the odd fulmar on the ledges at the top and negotiations to pass may be necessary. The wall with Paranormal and Roof Roof on it has martins nesting in the cracks of the routes, fulmars and gulls on the ledges and puffins somewhere in the bank above. This wall is probably best left for late or early in the year. Nest debris is not really a problem after the nesting season though.
gforce ? - 31/Aug/10

Great crag lots of superb climbing ecpecially in the upper grades highly recommended.
Sandy Simpson ? - 14/Jun/09

There are lots of nesting birds at this crag, including puffins and fulmars. Take this into account when choosing routes in the nesting season. A magical crag!
Smelly Fox - 15/May/08