Altitude 1138m a.s.l
Pitch 4 of 'Oceano Irrazionale', Val di Mello. © ali k
A stunning buttress thats well worth the (considerable) effort to reach it. Classic routes include the trad Oceano Irrazionale (350m, E4 5c) and the semi-bolted Self Control (200m, 6a+, but more like E3 5c). These routes start from the "Great ledge" that splits the buttress at half height.
Approach takes about 2 hours and and several sections utilise fixed ropes. An early start is advisable to avoid benightment. Descent is by abseiling down the route, abseiling down another route, or the extremely difficult descent of a gully to the left. Descent from the Great Ledge is via 5 abseils and a lot of walking through trees.
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