Dumbarton Rock

Climbs 367 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Access notes
From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders. Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015), Scottish Sport Climbs (2013), Stone Country (2005), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAGS  
2BetaE1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon GullyS 4b *5
5Nameless CrackVD 1
6SnowhiteE2 5b **7
7Route ThreeHVS 5a *9
8Stonefall CrackHVS 5a **51
9Stonefall Crack DirectHVS 5a 26
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big ZipperE3 5b **26
12WoopsE4 6a **3
13Omerta7c **11
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***14
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 2
18Direquiem5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20RequiemE8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of AgesE3 6a *3
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***131
26First Movement6b+ **35
27Abstract Movement6b+ *4
28Abstract Art6c **92
29CyclopsE5 6b * 
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***27
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **4
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier8a **8
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **5
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Negative Creep8b 1
41Appliance of Violence7b+ **65
42Gratuitous Violence8a **1
43Eh GringoE4 5c * 
44DesperadoHVS 5a *15
45BlackoutE6 6a ** 
46WindjammerHVS 5a **81
47Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
48Bad Attitude7b **34
49Half Breed7b **52
50Unforgiven7b ***73
51Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
52Benny's Route Left-hand7b 13
53Benny's Route Right-hand7c *20
54Natural Born Drillers7a 65
55Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
56Easter RibS ***12
57Casanostra6c+ *5
58PlungeD ***30
 EAGLE BOULDER  
601920 TraverseVB 4a 17
61Rankin's BajinVB 4a 69
62Soixante Neuff3+ *77
63Pas Malf3 *58
64No.1 Routef3+ *90
65Left Directf3 **78
66Centre Directf4 *81
67Right Directf3 42
68No. 2 RouteVB 3a *51
69No. 2 Route SSf6B 8
70Pulloverf5 *128
71No.2 Route Directf4+ 44
72Runs on Potato Powerf7A *9
73Double Bogeyf6B *11
74Kev's Problemf7A *15
75John's Dynof6B+ **8
76Ramp Traversef6C *9
77The Beastief6A *5
78Bust My Chops LHf7A ***15
79Bust My Chopsf7A **22
80Bust My Chops RHf7A *29
81Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **6
82Treasuref7B *6
83Treasure Huntf7B *6
84Fool's Goldf7A+ *8
85Old Faithfulf5 *6
86Zig Zagf4 ***123
87Zig Zag SSf6C *47
88Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **11
89Zig Zag Variationf6A 13
90Pullover Traversef5+ 13
91Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **13
92Double Slopersf6A 20
93Treasure Trailf7B **2
94The Bampot Chopf6C+ *3
95Total Bampotf7A **2
96Bampot Aretef6B+ *33
97Bampot Traversef7A **21
98Fouk Yeef7B *1
99Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 2
100Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 5
101Tam's Routef5+ 19
102Tam's Route Original SSf7A  
103Shadowf7A+ **1
104The Story of the Hurricanef7A ** 
105Trick of the Valef7B ** 
106High Flyerf6C 5
107Pressuref8B  
108Firefightf8B  
109Smokescreenf7C *3
110Firestarterf8A ***3
111Gorillaf6B ***92
112Gorilla Warfaref7A+ **16
113Gorilla Hanging Startf7A 23
114Neil's Extension/Gorilla SSf7B+ ***16
115Silver Backf7C ***14
116Silverback Aretef7C+ ***2
117King Kongf8A 6
118Cautious Lipf6B *19
119Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
120Shin Sekaif6C+ *11
121Hoopf7C ***4
122Laddermanf7C **1
123Bingham's Wallf7B+ **1
124Dressed for Successf7B+ **4
125Dressed into Fordf7C+  
126Dressed Reversedf7B+  
127Supinatorf6A+ *21
128Supinator XLf6B+  
129The Legacyf6B+  
1302HBf6A ***62
1312HB SSf6B 3
132A Ford Flashf7B 1
133Ford Caprif7A+  
134Torino Sunf6B **25
135Oceansf7C 5
136Sea Bedf8A ***2
1371990 Traversef7B *27
138Snappyf6B+ **11
139Yappyf6B+ **9
140The Blue Meanief5 ***127
141PTOf5 *116
 WARM-UP WALL  
143Left Edgef3 *194
144Tuesday Wallf3+ 14
145Fridays Fillf3 *268
146Friar's Mantlef4+ ***305
147Thursday Wallf5 15
148Ungavaf4+ 233
149Right Edgef3+ 169
150Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 132
 HOME RULE  
152Orange Wallf6A 5
153The Beastf3 40
154Beastedf6B  
155The Brutef4 11
156The Brute SSf5+ 4
157Valkyrief4+ 4
158Encore Une Foisf7A *5
159Pas Encoref5 *11
160Crimp!f6B+ 5
161More Chickenf7A+ * 
162Head Buttf7A 12
163Butt Headf7A+  
164Malky Traversef7B+ **10
165Daggerf7B+ **4
166Malkiedf7C ***10
167Malkyf7B+ *32
168Dwellerf7B+  
169Set in Motionf7C+  
170Hokkuf8A * 
171Soshof8A+ ** 
172Spamf7C *11
173Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
174Spam Daggerf8A *7
175Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **7
176Mugsy Traversef7B ***44
177Mugsy Sit Startf7B **10
178Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***20
179Mugsy (Ya Bass)f7A ***68
180Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
181Mestugsof7B **5
182Thoroughbredf7C+ 7
183Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***11
184Mugstizof7B+ ***8
185Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **7
186Mestizo Traversef7B **41
187Mestizo SSf7A+ **56
188Mestizof6A ***103
189Mestizo 'Direct'f7A 1
190Art Attackf7B 2
191Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
192Physical Graffitif6B **55
193Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **3
194Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
195Home Rulef6A **125
196Devolutionf6C **10
197Devo Maxf6C *4
198Spray On *f7B * 
199Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *19
200Home Rule High Traversef6B **34
201Bob's Problemf6A 8
202Presencef5+ *22
203Royale Beautyf6B * 
204Route RoyaleE3 5c 13
205Chicken Royalef6C 1
206Royal Aretef6B  
207The WhipE2 5b **22
208The Whip SSf6C *23
209The Whip SS Directf6A+ *4
210The Switchf5 2
211Einherjarf6B+ *2
212Skin Deepf6B+ *3
213Valhallaf4 7
214The Beautyf4 7
 SUCKERS BOULDER  
216P.S.f3 5a 16
217Cave Routef6A 3
218Cave Route RHf6A+ 10
219Unnamedf7A 5
220Totof6A ***179
221Toto SSf7A 64
222Toto Right Handf6C **15
223Totalledf7B **2
224Totalityf7B+ 12
225Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *17
226Toto Traversef7A+ 1
227The Shieldf7B+ ***20
228The Shield SSf7C **4
229The Shield Right Handf7A+ *6
230The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
231Redpath's Problemf7B  
232Power Pocketsf6C *18
233Power Pockets SSf7C * 
234Off The Railsf7A+ **1
235Railingf6B+ **119
236Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
237Snooker Shelff4 33
238Kneebarf6A+ *13
239Moscaf3+ 12
240Antimatterf4 2
241Suckers Slabf4+ 13
242Volponef3 *38
243Smear Testf3 4
 B.N.I BOULDER  
245Chahala Easy SSf6A 3
246Chahalaf5+ **65
247Chahala SSf8A+  
248Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
249Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
250The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
251The Grand Tourf8B  
252Sanctionf8B ***1
253Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
254B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***12
255Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **6
256La Saboteurf8A+ ***4
257Sabotagedf8A ***2
258Sabotagef8A ***14
259The Elbow Basherf7B+ 5
260Very Apef6C 1
261Good Nicksf6B **44
262Good Nicks SSf6C **16
263You're Nickedf7B 2
264HPf6B+ 3
265Pendulumf4 ***24
266RevelationE4 6a  
267NadjilationE6 6b ** 
268Sugar Rushf7B  
269Harvester of Eyesf3 19
270AstronomyVB 3a 25
271Deo Gratisf4+ *16
272Imposter Aretef3+ ***54
273B.N.I. Directf5+ 2
274B.N.I.f5 ***10
 PONGO BOULDER  
276Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 6
277Skint Knucklesf4 *60
278Skint Sitterf6C+ 2
279Slap Happy SSf7A 3
280Slap Happyf7A **115
281Hap Slappyf7B+ 21
282Slap Happy Dynof7C ***3
283Happy Slapf7C+ *3
284Paedo Bikinif7C *1
285In Bloomf7C+ ***14
286In Bloom Arete *f8A **1
287Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
288Mr Ticklef8A **1
289Pongof6C+ ***54
290Pongo True SSf8A ***8
291Pongo Jumpf7B 3
292Pongo Staticf7B+ 4
293Pongo Knucklef7C 4
294Supersize Mef8B  
295Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *3
296Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *4
297Pongo Aretef7A+ **37
298The Dumbartonerf7A ** 
299Andy's Aretef7A **22
300Buzz Sawf7A+ 7
301Sorcerer's Slabf3 54
302Magic Wandf3+ 32
303Slantf3 35
304Shothole SSf6A+ 5
305The Groovef4+ 5
306Nemesis Leftf4+ 3
307Nemesisf5 *90
308Nemesis SSf5+ **15
309Nemesis SS Rightf6B+ 2
310Narcosisf5 *43
311Narcosis SSf6A *15
312Lunikf4+ *48
313Lunik SSf6A+ 7
314Rosie and Jimf5+ *10
315Cheddar Directf4+ ***153
316Cheddar Direct SSf6A 9
317Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *4
318Hard Cheddarf5+ ***196
319Hard Cheddar SSf6A 45
320Big Cheesef7C+ **3
321Le Rustiquef7A **4
322Cheese-boredf7A *3
323The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **13
324Juggief4 ***63
325The Ramp (Juggie Right)f5 7
326Phoenixf7A 3
327Consolidatedf7B+ ***36
328Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
329Babybelf6C+ *5
 SEA BOULDER  
331The Crackf3 9
332Short Wallf4+ 8
333White Streakf6B **72
334Steptoef3+ *137
335Red Streakf6A 88
336Chowbokf3+ **156
337Erewhonf4+ 159
338Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 22
339Commercial Routef4 **140
340Wednesday Wallf4 81
341Silver's Routef3+ *129
342Silver's Route SSf6C+ **7
343Silver Ribf3+ 5
344Silver Aretef6B 2
345Gardner's Girdlef4 ***67
 TRIPLETS  
347Short Sightf3+ 15
348Honestyf7A 9
349Reducer Arete Leftf5+ 7
350Reducer Aretef6A 16
351Reducerf7B 2
352Long Reachf5+ 12
353Short Noticef4+ 13
354Ivy Ribf5+ 4
355Ivy Traversef5 4
356Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 28
 BLACK WALL  
358The Niche Leftf5+ 5
359The Nichef6A 4
360Black Wall Crackf5+ 18
361Black Wall Circuitf6A *12
362Easy Crackf3+ 6
363Mick Tf4+ 5
364Mick T SSf6A 4
 EVERDRY WALL  
366LongbowE1 5b **74
367Longbow SSf5+ 4
368The Slopersf7A 1
369Old Man's Cornerf6A 2
370The Matchf6B 2
371This Place is Shitf6A 7
372Liddell, Ha and Crombief6C+  
373Shattered Traverse Highf6C 63
374Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **13
 CIRCUITS  
376JLS training circuitf6A 6a 63
377Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03