Dumbarton Rock

Climbs 367 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Access notes
From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders. Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Stone Country (2005), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAGS  
2BetaE1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon GullyS 4b *5
5Nameless CrackVD 1
6SnowhiteE2 5b **7
7Route ThreeHVS 5a *9
8Stonefall CrackHVS 5a **50
9Stonefall Crack DirectHVS 5a 23
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big ZipperE3 5b **26
12WoopsE4 6a **3
13Omerta7c **8
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***14
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 2
18Direquiem5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20RequiemE8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of AgesE3 6a *3
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***123
26First Movement6b+ **30
27Abstract Movement6b+ *3
28Abstract Art6c **82
29CyclopsE5 6b * 
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***27
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **4
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier8a **8
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **5
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Negative Creep8b 1
41Appliance of Violence7b+ **54
42Gratuitous Violence8a **1
43Eh GringoE4 5c * 
44DesperadoHVS 5a *14
45BlackoutE6 6a ** 
46WindjammerHVS 5a **80
47Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
48Bad Attitude7b **33
49Half Breed7b **52
50Unforgiven7b ***64
51Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
52Benny's Route Left-hand7b 13
53Benny's Route Right-hand7c *20
54Natural Born Drillers7a 65
55Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
56Easter RibS ***11
57Casanostra6c+ *3
58PlungeD ***29
 EAGLE BOULDER  
601920 TraverseVB 4a 14
61Rankin's BajinVB 4a 66
62Soixante Neuff3+ *74
63Pas Malf3 *55
64No.1 Routef3+ *86
65Left Directf3 **76
66Centre Directf4 *78
67Right Directf3 41
68No. 2 RouteVB 3a *48
69No. 2 Route SSf6B 5
70Pulloverf5 *120
71No.2 Route Directf4+ 40
72Runs on Potato Powerf7A *9
73Double Bogeyf6B *10
74Kev's Problemf7A *14
75John's Dynof6B+ **7
76Ramp Traversef6C *8
77The Beastief6A *4
78Bust My Chops LHf7A ***13
79Bust My Chopsf7A **21
80Bust My Chops RHf7A *25
81Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **6
82Treasuref7B *6
83Treasure Huntf7B *6
84Fool's Goldf7A+ *6
85Old Faithfulf5 *4
86Zig Zagf4 ***112
87Zig Zag SSf6C *42
88Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **10
89Zig Zag Variationf6A 12
90Pullover Traversef5+ 12
91Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **12
92Double Slopersf6A 19
93Treasure Trailf7B **1
94The Bampot Chopf6C+ *3
95Total Bampotf7A **2
96Bampot Aretef6B+ *33
97Bampot Traversef7A **20
98Fouk Yeef7B *1
99Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 2
100Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 5
101Tam's Routef5+ 19
102Tam's Route Original SSf7A  
103Shadowf7A+ **1
104The Story of the Hurricanef7A ** 
105Trick of the Valef7B ** 
106High Flyerf6C 5
107Pressuref8B  
108Firefightf8B  
109Smokescreenf7C *3
110Firestarterf8A ***1
111Gorillaf6B ***80
112Gorilla Warfaref7A+ **15
113Gorilla Hanging Startf7A 22
114Neil's Extension/Gorilla SSf7B+ ***15
115Silver Backf7C ***13
116Silverback Aretef7C+ ***2
117King Kongf8A 6
118Cautious Lipf6B *18
119Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
120Shin Sekaif6C+ *10
121Hoopf7C ***3
122Laddermanf7C **1
123Bingham's Wallf7B+ **1
124Dressed for Successf7B+ **4
125Dressed into Fordf7C+  
126Dressed Reversedf7B+  
127Supinatorf6A+ *21
128Supinator XLf6B+  
129The Legacyf6B+  
1302HBf6A ***57
1312HB SSf6B 3
132A Ford Flashf7B 1
133Ford Caprif7A+  
134Torino Sunf6B **25
135Oceansf7C 3
136Sea Bedf8A ***2
1371990 Traversef7B *26
138Snappyf6B+ **11
139Yappyf6B+ **9
140The Blue Meanief5 ***122
141PTOf5 *108
 WARM-UP WALL  
143Left Edgef3 *181
144Tuesday Wallf3+ 7
145Fridays Fillf3 *254
146Friar's Mantlef4+ ***280
147Thursday Wallf5 5
148Ungavaf4+ 213
149Right Edgef3+ 157
150Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 113
 HOME RULE  
152Orange Wallf6A 5
153The Beastf3 39
154Beastedf6B  
155The Brutef4 10
156The Brute SSf5+ 4
157Valkyrief4+ 4
158Encore Une Foisf7A *4
159Pas Encoref5 *11
160Crimp!f6B+ 5
161More Chickenf7A+ * 
162Head Buttf7A 11
163Butt Headf7A+  
164Malky Traversef7B+ **10
165Daggerf7B+ **2
166Malkiedf7C ***7
167Malkyf7B+ *28
168Dwellerf7B+  
169Set in Motionf7C+  
170Hokkuf8A * 
171Soshof8A+ ** 
172Spamf7C *11
173Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
174Spam Daggerf8A *7
175Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **7
176Mugsy Traversef7B ***41
177Mugsy Sit Startf7B **8
178Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***17
179Mugsy (Ya Bass)f7A ***61
180Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
181Mestugsof7B **4
182Thoroughbredf7C+ 5
183Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***9
184Mugstizof7B+ ***8
185Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **7
186Mestizo Traversef7B **38
187Mestizo SSf7A+ **49
188Mestizof6A ***94
189Mestizo 'Direct'f7A  
190Art Attackf7B 1
191Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
192Physical Graffitif6B **46
193Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **3
194Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
195Home Rulef6A **116
196Devolutionf6C **10
197Devo Maxf6C *3
198Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *17
199Home Rule High Traversef6B **32
200Bob's Problemf6A 8
201Presencef5+ *22
202Royale Beautyf6B * 
203Route RoyaleE3 5c 13
204Chicken Royalef6C 1
205Royal Aretef6B  
206The WhipE2 5b **19
207The Whip SSf6C *21
208The Whip SS Directf6A+ *3
209The Switchf5 2
210Einherjarf6B+ *2
211Skin Deepf6B+ *3
212Valhallaf4 7
213The Beautyf4 7
 SUCKERS BOULDER  
215P.S.f3 5a 16
216Cave Routef6A 3
217Cave Route RHf6A+ 8
218Unnamedf7A 5
219Totof6A ***168
220Toto SSf7A 60
221Toto Right Handf6C **11
222Totalledf7B **2
223Totalityf7B+ 11
224Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *15
225Toto Traversef7A+ 1
226The Shieldf7B+ ***20
227The Shield SSf7C **3
228The Shield Right Handf7A+ *5
229The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
230Redpath's Problemf7B  
231Power Pocketsf6C *18
232Power Pockets SSf7C * 
233Off The Railsf7A+ **1
234Railingf6B+ **115
235Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
236Snooker Shelff4 32
237Kneebarf6A+ *13
238Moscaf3+ 12
239Antimatterf4 2
240Suckers Slabf4+ 13
241Volponef3 *37
242Smear Testf3 3
 B.N.I BOULDER  
244Chahala Easy SSf6A 3
245Chahalaf5+ **62
246Chahala SSf8A+  
247Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
248Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
249The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
250The Grand Tourf8B  
251Sanctionf8B ***1
252Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
253B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***11
254Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **6
255La Saboteurf8A+ ***3
256Sabotagedf8A ***2
257Sabotagef8A ***13
258The Elbow Basherf7B+ 5
259Very Apef6C 1
260Good Nicksf6B **44
261Good Nicks SSf6C **16
262You're Nickedf7B 2
263HPf6B+ 3
264Pendulumf4 ***24
265RevelationE4 6a  
266NadjilationE6 6b ** 
267Sugar Rushf7B  
268Harvester of Eyesf3 19
269AstronomyVB 3a 24
270Deo Gratisf4+ *16
271Imposter Aretef3+ ***52
272B.N.I. Directf5+ 2
273B.N.I.f5 ***10
 PONGO BOULDER  
275Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 5
276Skint Knucklesf4 *60
277Skint Sitterf6C+ 2
278Slap Happy SSf7A 3
279Slap Happyf7A **106
280Hap Slappyf7B+ 20
281Slap Happy Dynof7C ***1
282Happy Slapf7C+ *1
283Paedo Bikinif7C *1
284In Bloomf7C+ ***11
285Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
286Mr Ticklef8A **1
287Pongof6C+ ***50
288Pongo True SSf8A ***8
289Pongo Jumpf7B 3
290Pongo Staticf7B+ 4
291Pongo Knucklef7C 4
292Supersize Mef8B  
293Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *3
294Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *3
295Pongo Aretef7A+ **34
296The Dumbartonerf7A ** 
297Andy's Aretef7A **20
298Buzz Sawf7A+ 7
299Sorcerer's Slabf3 52
300Magic Wandf3+ 31
301Slantf3 34
302Shothole SSf6A+ 5
303The Groovef4+ 5
304Nemesis Leftf4+ 2
305Nemesisf5 *86
306Nemesis SSf5+ **15
307Nemesis SS Rightf6B+ 1
308Narcosisf5 *39
309Narcosis SSf6A *15
310Lunikf4+ *45
311Lunik SSf6A+ 5
312Rosie and Jimf5+ *5
313Cheddar Directf4+ ***144
314Cheddar Direct SSf6A 5
315Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *3
316Hard Cheddarf5+ ***185
317Hard Cheddar SSf6A 39
318Big Cheesef7C+ **3
319Le Rustiquef7A **4
320Cheese-boredf7A *3
321The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **13
322Juggief4 ***61
323The Ramp (Juggie Right)f5 5
324Phoenixf7A 2
325Consolidatedf7B+ ***35
326Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
327Babybelf6C+ *5
 SEA BOULDER  
329The Crackf3 5
330Short Wallf4+ 4
331White Streakf6B **69
332Steptoef3+ *127
333Red Streakf6A 81
334Chowbokf3+ **147
335Erewhonf4+ 150
336Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 21
337Commercial Routef4 **134
338Wednesday Wallf4 76
339Silver's Routef3+ *120
340Silver's Route SSf6C+ **7
341Silver Ribf3+ 4
342Silver Aretef6B 2
343Gardner's Girdlef4 ***62
 TRIPLETS  
345Short Sightf3+ 14
346Honestyf7A 7
347Reducer Arete Leftf5+ 4
348Reducer Aretef6A 13
349Reducerf7B 2
350Long Reachf5+ 11
351Short Noticef4+ 11
352Ivy Ribf5+ 3
353Ivy Traversef5 4
354Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 28
 BLACK WALL  
356The Niche Leftf5+ 4
357The Nichef6A 4
358Black Wall Crackf5+ 17
359Black Wall Circuitf6A *9
360Easy Crackf3+ 5
361Mick Tf4+ 5
362Mick T SSf6A 4
 EVERDRY WALL  
364LongbowE1 5b **69
365Longbow SSf5+ 3
366The Slopersf7A  
367Old Man's Cornerf6A 2
368The Matchf6B 1
369This Place is Shitf6A 6
370Liddell, Ha and Crombief6C+  
371Shattered Traverse Highf6C 61
372Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **13
 CIRCUITS  
374JLS training circuitf6A 6a 63
375Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03