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These details were last updated on 23/Sep/2013

Dumbarton Rock

West Dumbarton, SCOTLAND

Climbs 353 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Access notes
From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders. Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.6mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
13 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
13 °C
6 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
9 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
16 °C
5 kph

0.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
13 °C
10 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Southern UplandsMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Stone Country (2005), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN CRAGS  
2BetaE1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon GullyS 4b *5
5Nameless CrackVD 1
6SnowhiteE2 5b **7
7Route ThreeHVS 5a *8
8Stonefall CrackHVS 5a **48
9Stonefall Crack DirectHVS 5a 23
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big ZipperE3 5b **24
12WoopsE4 6a **3
13Omerta7c **8
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***14
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 2
18Direquiem5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20RequiemE8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of AgesE3 6a *3
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***120
26First Movement6b+ **27
27Abstract Movement6b+ *2
28Abstract Art6c **78
29CyclopsE5 6b * 
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***26
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **4
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier8a **8
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **5
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Longbow SSf5+ 2
41LongbowE1 5b **66
42Negative Creep8b 1
43Appliance of Violence7b+ **52
44Gratuitous Violence8a **1
45Eh GringoE4 5c * 
46DesperadoHVS 5a *11
47BlackoutE6 6a ** 
48WindjammerHVS 5a **78
49Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
50Bad Attitude7b **32
51Half Breed7b **51
52Unforgiven7b ***62
53Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
54Benny's Route Left-hand7b 13
55Benny's Route Right-hand7c *20
56Natural Born Drillers7a 64
57Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
58Easter RibS ***11
59Casanostra6c+ *2
60PlungeD ***28
 EAGLE BOULDER  
621920 TraverseVB 4a 14
63Rankin's BajinVB 4a 62
64Soixante Neuff3+ *72
65Pas Malf3 *51
66No.1 Routef3+ *83
67Left Directf3 **74
68Centre Directf4 *74
69Right Directf3 40
70No. 2 RouteVB 3a *47
71No. 2 Route SSf6B 5
72Pulloverf5 *115
73No.2 Route Directf4+ 40
74Runs on Potato Powerf7A *8
75Double Bogeyf6B *10
76Kev's Problemf7A *13
77John's Dynof6B+ **7
78Ramp Traversef6C *7
79The Beastief6A *3
80Bust My Chops LHf7A ***11
81Bust My Chopsf7A **20
82Bust My Chops RHf7A *25
83Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **5
84Treasuref7B *6
85Treasure Huntf7B *6
86Fool's Goldf7A+ *6
87Old Faithfulf5 *3
88Zig Zagf4 ***108
89Zig Zag SSf6C *42
90Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **9
91Zig Zag Variationf6A 12
92Pullover Traversef5+ 9
93Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **12
94Double Slopersf6A 17
95Treasure Trailf7B **1
96The Bampot Chopf6C+ *2
97Bampot Aretef6B+ *33
98Bampot Traversef7A **20
99Fouk Yeef7B *1
100Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 2
101Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 5
102Tam's Routef5+ 18
103Tam's Route Original SSf7A  
104Shadowf7A+ **1
105The Story of the Hurricanef7A ** 
106Trick of the Valef7B ** 
107High Flyerf6C 5
108Pressuref8B  
109Firefightf8B  
110Smokescreenf7C *3
111Firestarterf8A ***1
112Gorillaf6B ***76
113Gorilla Warfaref7A+ **14
114Gorilla Hanging Startf7A 21
115Neil's Extension/Gorilla SSf7B+ ***15
116Silver Backf7C ***13
117Silverback Aretef7C+ ***2
118King Kongf8A 6
119Cautious Lipf6B *17
120Shin Sekaif6C+ *10
121Hoopf7C ***3
122Laddermanf7C **1
123Bingham's Wallf7B+ **1
124Dressed for Successf7B+ **4
125Dressed into Fordf7C+  
126Dressed Reversedf7B+  
127Supinatorf6A+ *20
1282HBf6A ***56
1292HB SSf6B 3
130A Ford Flashf7B 1
131Ford Caprif7A+  
132Torino Sunf6B **25
133Oceansf7C 3
134Sea Bedf8A ***2
1351990 Traversef7B *25
136Snappyf6B+ **11
137Yappyf6B+ **9
138The Blue Meanief5 ***117
139PTOf5 *103
 WARM-UP WALL  
141Left Edgef3 *168
142Tuesday Wallf3+ 2
143Fridays Fillf3 *240
144Friar's Mantlef4+ ***267
145Thursday Wallf5 1
146Ungavaf4+ 206
147Right Edgef3+ 147
148Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 109
 HOME RULE  
150Orange Wallf6A 5
151The Beastf3 37
152Beastedf6B  
153The Brutef4 9
154The Brute SSf5+ 4
155Valkyrief4+ 4
156Encore Une Foisf7A *4
157Pas Encoref5 *11
158Crimp!f6C+ 3
159More Chickenf7A+ * 
160Head Buttf7A 11
161Butt Headf7A+  
162Malky Traversef7B+ **10
163Daggerf7B+ **2
164Malkiedf7C ***7
165Malkyf7B+ *28
166Dwellerf7B+  
167Set in Motionf7C+  
168Hokkuf8A * 
169Soshof8A+ ** 
170Spamf7C *11
171Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
172Spam Daggerf8A *7
173Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **7
174Mugsy Traversef7B ***38
175Mugsy Sit Startf7B **5
176Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***15
177Mugsy (Ya Bass)f7A ***57
178Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
179Mestugsof7B **2
180Thoroughbredf7C+ 5
181Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***9
182Mugstizof7B+ ***8
183Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **7
 Climb nameGradex
184Mestizo Traversef7B **37
185Mestizo SSf7A+ **46
186Mestizof6A ***87
187Mestizo 'Direct'f7A  
188Art Attackf7B 1
189Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
190Physical GraffitiE5 6b **39
191Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **3
192Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
193Home Rulef6A **110
194Devolutionf6C **10
195Devo Maxf6C *3
196Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *17
197Home Rule High Traversef6B **30
198Bob's Problemf6A 8
199Presencef5+ *21
200Royale Beautyf6B * 
201Route RoyaleE3 5c 13
202Chicken Royalef6C 1
203Royal Aretef6B  
204The WhipE2 5b **18
205The Whip SSf6C *19
206The Whip SS Directf6A+ *3
207The Switchf5 2
208Einherjarf6B+ *2
209Skin Deepf6B+ *3
210Valhallaf4 6
211The Beautyf4 6
 SUCKERS BOULDER  
213P.S.f3 5a 16
214Cave Routef6A 2
215Cave Route RHf6A+ 6
216Unnamedf7A 4
217Totof6A ***161
218Toto SSf7A 56
219Toto Right Handf6C **11
220Totalledf7B **2
221Totalityf7B+ 11
222Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *15
223Toto Traversef7A+ 1
224The Shieldf7B+ ***20
225The Shield SSf7C **2
226The Shield Right Handf7A+ *5
227The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
228Redpath's Problemf7B  
229Power Pocketsf6C *17
230Power Pockets SSf7C * 
231Off The Railsf7A+ **1
232Railingf6B+ **112
233Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
234Snooker Shelff4 31
235Kneebarf6A+ *12
236Moscaf3+ 12
237Antimatterf4 2
238Suckers Slabf4+ 13
239Volponef3 *37
 B.N.I BOULDER  
241Chahala Easy SSf6A 1
242Chahalaf5+ **59
243Chahala SSf8A+  
244Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
245Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
246The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
247The Grand Tourf8B  
248Sanctionf8B ***1
249Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
250B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***11
251Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **6
252La Saboteurf8A+ ***3
253Sabotagedf8A ***2
254Sabotagef8A ***13
255The Elbow Basherf7B+ 5
256Very Apef6C 1
257Good Nicksf6B **44
258Good Nicks SSf6C **16
259You're Nickedf7B 2
260HPf6B+ 3
261Pendulumf4 ***24
262RevelationE4 6a  
263NadjilationE6 6b ** 
264Sugar Rushf7B  
265Harvester of Eyesf3 19
266AstronomyVB 3a 23
267Deo Gratisf4+ *15
268Imposter Aretef3+ ***49
269B.N.I. Directf5+ 2
270B.N.I.f5 ***10
 PONGO BOULDER  
272Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 4
273Skint Knucklesf4 *60
274Skint Sitterf6C+ 1
275Slap Happy SSf7A 3
276Slap Happyf7A **97
277Hap Slappyf7B+ 19
278Slap Happy Dynof7C ***1
279Happy Slapf7C+ *1
280Paedo Bikinif7C *1
281In Bloomf7C+ ***11
282Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
283Mr Ticklef8A **1
284Pongof6C+ ***47
285Pongo True SSf8A ***8
286Pongo Jumpf7B 3
287Pongo Staticf7B+ 4
288Pongo Knucklef7C 4
289Supersize Mef8B  
290Pongo Aretef7A+ **32
291Andy's Aretef7A **20
292Buzz Sawf7A+ 7
293Sorcerer's Slabf3 50
294Magic Wandf3+ 30
295Slantf3 33
296Shothole SSf6A+ 3
297Nemesis Leftf4+ 1
298Nemesisf5 *81
299Nemesis SSf5+ **15
300Nemesis SS Rightf6B+ 1
301Narcosisf5 *39
302Narcosis SSf6A *15
303Lunikf4+ *44
304Lunik SSf6A+ 5
305Rosie and Jimf5+ *5
306Cheddar Directf4+ ***139
307Cheddar Direct SSf6A 5
308Hard Cheddarf5+ ***182
309Hard Cheddar SSf6A 39
310Big Cheesef7C+ **3
311Juggief4 ***60
312The Ramp (Juggie Right)f5 2
313Phoenixf7A 2
314The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **12
315Consolidatedf7B+ ***35
316Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
317Babybelf6C+ *4
 SEA BOULDER  
319The Crack *f3 2
320Short Wall *f4+ 2
321White Streakf6B **69
322Steptoef3+ *126
323Red Streakf6A 80
324Chowbokf3+ **143
325Erewhonf4+ 148
326Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 20
327Commercial Routef4 **132
328Wednesday Wallf4 72
329Silver's Routef3+ *116
330Silver's Route SSf6C+ **7
331Gardner's Girdlef4 ***62
 TRIPLETS  
333Short Sightf3+ 12
334Honestyf7A 7
335Reducer Arete Leftf5+ 3
336Reducer Aretef6A 12
337Reducerf7B 2
338Long Reachf5+ 10
339Short Noticef4+ 10
340Ivy Rib *f5+ 2
341Ivy Traverse *f5 3
342Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 28
 BLACK WALL  
344The Niche Left *f5+ 3
345The Niche *f6A 3
346Black Wall Crackf5+ 15
347Black Wall Circuitf6A *6
 EVERDRY WALL  
349The Slopersf7A  
350Easy Crack *f3+ 3
351Mick T *f4+ 3
352Mick T SS *f6A 1
353Old Man's Corner *f6A 1
354The Match *f6B 1
355This Place is Shit *f6A 3
356Shattered Traverse Highf6C 55
357Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **13
 CIRCUITS  
359JLS training circuitf6A 6a 62
360Smear Test *f3 3
361The Groove *f4+ 2
362Silver Rib *f3+ 2
363Silver Arete *f6B 2
364Liddell, Ha and Crombie *f6C+  
365Stone Country Yellow Circuit *f5+ **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13

New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13

Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13

Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08

Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03