Dumbarton Rock

Climbs 367 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Access notes
From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders. Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Stone Country (2005), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAGS 
2BetaE1 5b
3AntigravE3 6a *
4Monsoon GullyS 4b *
5Nameless CrackVD
6SnowhiteE2 5b **
7Route ThreeHVS 5a *
8Stonefall CrackHVS 5a **
9Stonefall Crack DirectHVS 5a
10Payback Time!7b+
11The Big ZipperE3 5b **
12WoopsE4 6a **
13Omerta7c **
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***
15AchemineE9 6c ***
16Cop Out5.13c r **
17RhapsodyE11 7a
18Direquiem5.14a r **
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **
20RequiemE8 6b ***
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***
23Rock of AgesE3 6a *
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c **
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***
26First Movement6b+ **
27Abstract Movement6b+ *
28Abstract Art6c **
29CyclopsE5 6b *
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c *
31Dum Dum Boys7c+ ***
32Sufferance8a ***
33Endurance8a **
34Suffix8a **
35Persistance8a *
36Tarrier8a **
37Tolerance8b **
38Fever PitchE4 5c **
39FatsoE4 5c *
40Longbow SSf5+
41LongbowE1 5b **
42Negative Creep8b
43Appliance of Violence7b+ **
44Gratuitous Violence8a **
45Eh GringoE4 5c *
46DesperadoHVS 5a *
47BlackoutE6 6a **
48WindjammerHVS 5a **
49Out on the RiggingHVS 5a
50Bad Attitude7b **
51Half Breed7b **
52Unforgiven7b ***
53Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **
54Benny's Route Left-hand7b
55Benny's Route Right-hand7c *
56Natural Born Drillers7a
57Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c
58Easter RibS ***
59Casanostra6c+ *
60PlungeD ***
 EAGLE BOULDER 
621920 TraverseVB 4a
63Rankin's BajinVB 4a
64Soixante Neuff3+ *
65Pas Malf3 *
66No.1 Routef3+ *
67Left Directf3 **
68Centre Directf4 *
69Right Directf3
70No. 2 RouteVB 3a *
71No. 2 Route SSf6B
72Pulloverf5 *
73No.2 Route Directf4+
74Runs on Potato Powerf7A *
75Double Bogeyf6B *
76Kev's Problemf7A *
77John's Dynof6B+ **
78Ramp Traversef6C *
79The Beastief6A *
80Bust My Chops LHf7A ***
81Bust My Chopsf7A **
82Bust My Chops RHf7A *
83Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **
84Treasuref7B *
85Treasure Huntf7B *
86Fool's Goldf7A+ *
87Old Faithfulf5 *
88Zig Zagf4 ***
89Zig Zag SSf6C *
90Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **
91Zig Zag Variationf6A
92Pullover Traversef5+
93Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **
94Double Slopersf6A
95Treasure Trailf7B **
96The Bampot Chopf6C+ *
97Total Bampotf7A **
98Bampot Aretef6B+ *
99Bampot Traversef7A **
100Fouk Yeef7B *
101Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C
102Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+
103Tam's Routef5+
104Tam's Route Original SSf7A
105Shadowf7A+ **
106The Story of the Hurricanef7A **
107Trick of the Valef7B **
108High Flyerf6C
109Pressuref8B
110Firefightf8B
111Smokescreenf7C *
112Firestarterf8A ***
113Gorillaf6B ***
114Gorilla Warfaref7A+ **
115Gorilla Hanging Startf7A
116Neil's Extension/Gorilla SSf7B+ ***
117Silver Backf7C ***
118Silverback Aretef7C+ ***
119King Kongf8A
120Cautious Lipf6B *
121Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ ***
122Shin Sekaif6C+ *
123Hoopf7C ***
124Laddermanf7C **
125Bingham's Wallf7B+ **
126Dressed for Successf7B+ **
127Dressed into Fordf7C+
128Dressed Reversedf7B+
129Supinatorf6A+ *
130Supinator XLf6B+
131The Legacyf6B+
1322HBf6A ***
1332HB SSf6B
134A Ford Flashf7B
135Ford Caprif7A+
136Torino Sunf6B **
137Oceansf7C
138Sea Bedf8A ***
1391990 Traversef7B *
140Snappyf6B+ **
141Yappyf6B+ **
142The Blue Meanief5 ***
143PTOf5 *
 WARM-UP WALL 
145Left Edgef3 *
146Tuesday Wallf3+
147Fridays Fillf3 *
148Friar's Mantlef4+ ***
149Thursday Wallf5
150Ungavaf4+
151Right Edgef3+
152Warmup Wall Low Traversef5
 HOME RULE 
154Orange Wallf6A
155The Beastf3
156Beastedf6B
157The Brutef4
158The Brute SSf5+
159Valkyrief4+
160Encore Une Foisf7A *
161Pas Encoref5 *
162Crimp!f6B+
163More Chickenf7A+ *
164Head Buttf7A
165Butt Headf7A+
166Malky Traversef7B+ **
167Daggerf7B+ **
168Malkiedf7C ***
169Malkyf7B+ *
170Dwellerf7B+
171Set in Motionf7C+
172Hokkuf8A *
173Soshof8A+ **
174Spamf7C *
175Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***
176Spam Daggerf8A *
177Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **
178Mugsy Traversef7B ***
179Mugsy Sit Startf7B **
180Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***
181Mugsy (Ya Bass)f7A ***
182Houston We Have a Problemf7B
183Mestugsof7B **
184Thoroughbredf7C+
185Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***
186Mugstizof7B+ ***
187Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **
188Mestizo Traversef7B **
189Mestizo SSf7A+ **
190Mestizof6A ***
191Mestizo 'Direct'f7A
192Art Attackf7B
193Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***
194Physical Graffitif6B **
195Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **
196Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **
197Home Rulef6A **
198Devolutionf6C **
199Devo Maxf6C *
200Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *
201Home Rule High Traversef6B **
202Bob's Problemf6A
203Presencef5+ *
204Royale Beautyf6B *
205Route RoyaleE3 5c
206Chicken Royalef6C
207Royal Aretef6B
208The WhipE2 5b **
209The Whip SSf6C *
210The Whip SS Directf6A+ *
211The Switchf5
212Einherjarf6B+ *
213Skin Deepf6B+ *
214Valhallaf4
215The Beautyf4
 SUCKERS BOULDER 
217P.S.f3 5a
218Cave Routef6A
219Cave Route RHf6A+
220Unnamedf7A
221Totof6A ***
222Toto SSf7A
223Toto Right Handf6C **
224Totalledf7B **
225Totalityf7B+
226Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *
227Toto Traversef7A+
228The Shieldf7B+ ***
229The Shield SSf7C **
230The Shield Right Handf7A+ *
231The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *
232Redpath's Problemf7B
233Power Pocketsf6C *
234Power Pockets SSf7C *
235Off The Railsf7A+ **
236Railingf6B+ **
237Railings Extensionf6B+ **
238Snooker Shelff4
239Kneebarf6A+ *
240Moscaf3+
241Antimatterf4
242Suckers Slabf4+
243Volponef3 *
244Smear Testf3
 B.N.I BOULDER 
246Chahala Easy SSf6A
247Chahalaf5+ **
248Chahala SSf8A+
249Perfect Crimef8A+ ***
250Perfect Crime Extensionf8B
251The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***
252The Grand Tourf8B
253Sanctionf8B ***
254Gut Busterf8B+ ***
255B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***
256Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **
257La Saboteurf8A+ ***
258Sabotagedf8A ***
259Sabotagef8A ***
260The Elbow Basherf7B+
261Very Apef6C
262Good Nicksf6B **
263Good Nicks SSf6C **
264You're Nickedf7B
265HPf6B+
266Pendulumf4 ***
267RevelationE4 6a
268NadjilationE6 6b **
269Sugar Rushf7B
270Harvester of Eyesf3
271AstronomyVB 3a
272Deo Gratisf4+ *
273Imposter Aretef3+ ***
274B.N.I. Directf5+
275B.N.I.f5 ***
 PONGO BOULDER 
277Skint Cave Traversef6B+
278Skint Knucklesf4 *
279Skint Sitterf6C+
280Slap Happy SSf7A
281Slap Happyf7A **
282Hap Slappyf7B+
283Slap Happy Dynof7C ***
284Happy Slapf7C+ *
285Paedo Bikinif7C *
286In Bloomf7C+ ***
287Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **
288Mr Ticklef8A **
289Pongof6C+ ***
290Pongo True SSf8A ***
291Pongo Jumpf7B
292Pongo Staticf7B+
293Pongo Knucklef7C
294Supersize Mef8B
295Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *
296Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *
297Pongo Aretef7A+ **
298The Dumbartonerf7A **
299Andy's Aretef7A **
300Buzz Sawf7A+
301Sorcerer's Slabf3
302Magic Wandf3+
303Slantf3
304Shothole SSf6A+
305The Groovef4+
306Nemesis Leftf4+
307Nemesisf5 *
308Nemesis SSf5+ **
309Nemesis SS Rightf6B+
310Narcosisf5 *
311Narcosis SSf6A *
312Lunikf4+ *
313Lunik SSf6A+
314Rosie and Jimf5+ *
315Cheddar Directf4+ ***
316Cheddar Direct SSf6A
317Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *
318Hard Cheddarf5+ ***
319Hard Cheddar SSf6A
320Big Cheesef7C+ **
321Le Rustiquef7A **
322Cheese-boredf7A *
323The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **
324Juggief4 ***
325The Ramp (Juggie Right)f5
326Phoenixf7A
327Consolidatedf7B+ ***
328Consolidated Extensionf7C ***
329Babybelf6C+ *
 SEA BOULDER 
331The Crackf3
332Short Wallf4+
333White Streakf6B **
334Steptoef3+ *
335Red Streakf6A
336Chowbokf3+ **
337Erewhonf4+
338Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A
339Commercial Routef4 **
340Wednesday Wallf4
341Silver's Routef3+ *
342Silver's Route SSf6C+ **
343Silver Ribf3+
344Silver Aretef6B
345Gardner's Girdlef4 ***
 TRIPLETS 
347Short Sightf3+
348Honestyf7A
349Reducer Arete Leftf5+
350Reducer Aretef6A
351Reducerf7B
352Long Reachf5+
353Short Noticef4+
354Ivy Ribf5+
355Ivy Traversef5
356Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+
 BLACK WALL 
358The Niche Leftf5+
359The Nichef6A
360Black Wall Crackf5+
361Black Wall Circuitf6A *
362Easy Crackf3+
363Mick Tf4+
364Mick T SSf6A
 EVERDRY WALL 
366The Slopersf7A
367Old Man's Cornerf6A
368The Matchf6B
369This Place is Shitf6A
370Liddell, Ha and Crombief6C+
371Shattered Traverse Highf6C
372Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **
 CIRCUITS 
374JLS training circuitf6A 6a
375Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03