Dumbarton Rock

Climbs 369 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes
From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders. Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

Access notes

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015), Scottish Sport Climbs (2013), Stone Country (2005), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAGS  
2BetaE1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon GullyS 4b *5
5Nameless CrackVD 1
6SnowhiteE2 5b **7
7Route ThreeHVS 5a *9
8Stonefall CrackHVS 5a **51
9Stonefall Crack DirectHVS 5a 26
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big ZipperE3 5b **26
12WoopsE4 6a **3
13Omerta7c **11
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***14
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 2
18Direquiem5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20RequiemE8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of AgesE3 6a *3
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***132
26First Movement6b+ **37
27Abstract Movement6b+ *4
28Abstract Art6c **96
29CyclopsE5 6b * 
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***28
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **4
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier8a **8
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **5
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Negative Creep8b 1
41Appliance of Violence7b+ **66
42Gratuitous Violence8a **1
43Eh GringoE4 5c * 
44DesperadoHVS 5a *15
45BlackoutE6 6a ** 
46WindjammerHVS 5a **81
47Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
48Bad Attitude7b **34
49Half Breed7b **52
50Unforgiven7b ***74
51Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
52Benny's Route Left-hand7b 13
53Benny's Route Right-hand7c *21
54Natural Born Drillers7a 66
55Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
56Easter RibS ***12
57Casanostra6c+ *6
58PlungeD ***30
 EAGLE BOULDER  
601920 TraverseVB 4a 17
61Rankin's BajinVB 4a 69
62Soixante Neuff3+ *77
63Pas Malf3 *58
64No.1 Routef3+ *90
65Left Directf3 **78
66Centre Directf4 *81
67Right Directf3 42
68No. 2 RouteVB 3a *51
69No. 2 Route SSf6B 8
70Pulloverf5 *128
71No.2 Route Directf4+ 44
72Runs on Potato Powerf7A *9
73Double Bogeyf6B *11
74Kev's Problemf7A *16
75John's Dynof6B+ **9
76Ramp Traversef6C *9
77The Beastief6A *5
78Bust My Chops LHf7A ***17
79Bust My Chopsf7A **24
80Bust My Chops RHf7A *31
81Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **7
82Treasuref7B *7
83Treasure Huntf7B *7
84Fool's Goldf7A+ *9
85Old Faithfulf5 *6
86Zig Zagf4 ***123
87Zig Zag SSf6C *47
88Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **11
89Zig Zag Variationf6A 13
90Pullover Traversef5+ 13
91Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **13
92Double Slopersf6A 20
93Treasure Trailf7B **3
94The Bampot Chopf6C+ *3
95Total Bampotf7A **3
96Bampot Aretef6B+ *33
97Bampot Traversef7A **22
98Fouk Yeef7B *1
99Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 2
100Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 5
101Tam's Routef5+ 19
102Tam's Route Original SSf7A 1
103Shadowf7A+ **1
104The Story of the Hurricanef7A **1
105Trick of the Valef7B ** 
106High Flyerf6C 5
107Pressuref8B  
108Firefightf8B  
109Smokescreenf7C *3
110Firestarterf8A ***3
111Gorillaf6B ***92
112Gorilla Warfaref7A+ **17
113Gorilla Hanging Startf7A 24
114Neil's Extension/Gorilla SSf7B+ ***16
115Silver Backf7C ***14
116Silverback Aretef7C+ ***2
117King Kongf8A 6
118Cautious Lipf6B *20
119Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
120Shin Sekaif6C+ *11
121Hoopf7C ***4
122Laddermanf7C **1
123Bingham's Wallf7B+ **1
124Dressed for Successf7B+ **4
125Dressed into Fordf7C+  
126Dressed Reversedf7B+  
127Supinatorf6A+ *21
128Supinator XLf6B+  
129The Legacyf6B+  
1302HBf6A ***62
1312HB SSf6B 3
132A Ford Flashf7B 1
133Ford Caprif7A+  
134Torino Sunf6B **25
135Oceansf7C 5
136Sea Bedf8A ***2
1371990 Traversef7B *27
138Snappyf6B+ **11
139Yappyf6B+ **9
140The Blue Meanief5 ***127
141PTOf5 *116
 WARM-UP WALL  
143Left Edgef3 *196
144Tuesday Wallf3+ 16
145Fridays Fillf3 *270
146Friar's Mantlef4+ ***309
147Thursday Wallf5 18
148Ungavaf4+ 236
149Right Edgef3+ 171
150Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 134
 HOME RULE  
152Orange Wallf6A 6
153The Beastf3 41
154Beastedf6B  
155The Brutef4 11
156The Brute SSf5+ 4
157Valkyrief4+ 4
158Encore Une Foisf7A *6
159Pas Encoref5 *11
160Crimp!f6B+ 6
161More Chickenf7A+ *1
162Head Buttf7A 13
163More Malkstizof7A **1
164Chicken Buttf7A+ **1
165Butt Headf7A+ 1
166Malky Traversef7B+ **10
167Daggerf7B+ **4
168Malky's Chickenf7B+ 3
169Malkiedf7C ***10
170Malkyf7B+ *32
171Dwellerf7B+  
172Set in Motionf7C+  
173Hokkuf8A * 
174Soshof8A+ ** 
175Spamf7C *11
176Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
177Spam Daggerf8A *7
178Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **7
179Mugsy Traversef7B ***44
180Mugsy Sit Startf7B **11
181Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***20
182Mugsy (Ya Bass)f7A ***68
183Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
184Mestugsof7B **6
185Malky's Sleazy Chickenf8A ***1
186Thoroughbredf7C+ 7
187Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***12
188Mugstizof7B+ ***8
189Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **7
190Mestizo Traversef7B **42
191Mestizo SSf7A+ **57
192Mestizof6A ***102
193Mestizo 'Direct'f7A 2
194Art Attackf7B 3
195Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
196Physical Graffitif6B **55
197Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **3
198Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
199Home Rulef6A **125
200Devolutionf6C **10
201Devo Maxf6C *4
202Spray Onf7B * 
203Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *19
204Home Rule High Traversef6B **34
205Bob's Problemf6A 8
206Presencef5+ *22
207Royale Beautyf6B * 
208Route RoyaleE3 5c 13
209Chicken Royalef6C 1
210Royal Aretef6B  
211The WhipE2 5b **22
212The Whip SSf6C *24
213The Whip SS Directf6A+ *4
214The Switchf5 3
215Einherjarf6B+ *2
216Skin Deepf6B+ *3
217Valhallaf4 8
218The Beautyf4 7
 SUCKERS BOULDER  
220P.S.f3 5a 16
221Cave Routef6A 3
222Cave Route RHf6A+ 10
223Unnamedf7A 6
224Totof6A ***180
225Toto SSf7A 65
226Toto Right Handf6C **16
227Totalledf7B **2
228Totalityf7B+ 12
229Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *17
230Toto Traversef7A+ 1
231The Shieldf7B+ ***20
232The Shield SSf7C **4
233The Shield Right Handf7A+ *6
234The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
235Redpath's Problemf7B  
236Power Pocketsf6C *18
237Power Pockets SSf7C * 
238Off The Railsf7A+ **1
239Railingf6B+ **120
240Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
241Snooker Shelff4 33
242Kneebarf6A+ *13
243Moscaf3+ 12
244Antimatterf4 2
245Suckers Slabf4+ 13
246Volponef3 *38
247Smear Testf3 4
 B.N.I BOULDER  
249Chahala Easy SSf6A 3
250Chahalaf5+ **66
251Chahala SSf8A+  
252Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
253Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
254The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
255The Grand Tourf8B  
256Sanctionf8B ***1
257Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
258B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***12
259Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **6
260La Saboteurf8A+ ***4
261Sabotagedf8A ***2
262Sabotagef8A ***14
263The Elbow Basherf7B+ 5
264Very Apef6C 1
265Good Nicksf6B **47
266Good Nicks SSf6C **16
267You're Nickedf7B 2
268HPf6B+ 3
269Pendulumf4 ***24
270RevelationE4 6a  
271NadjilationE6 6b ** 
272Sugar Rushf7B  
273Harvester of Eyesf3 19
274AstronomyVB 3a 25
275Deo Gratisf4+ *16
276Imposter Aretef3+ ***55
277B.N.I. Directf5+ 2
278B.N.I.f5 ***10
 PONGO BOULDER  
280Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 7
281Skint Knucklesf4 *61
282Skint Sitterf6C+ 4
283Slap Happy SSf7A 4
284Slap Happyf7A **116
285Hap Slappyf7B+ 21
286Slap Happy Dynof7C ***3
287Happy Slapf7C+ *3
288Paedo Bikinif7C *1
289In Bloomf7C+ ***14
290In Bloom Aretef8A **1
291Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
292Mr Ticklef8A **1
293Pongof6C+ ***54
294Pongo True SSf8A ***8
295Pongo Jumpf7B 3
296Pongo Staticf7B+ 4
297Pongo Knucklef7C 4
298Supersize Mef8B  
299Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *3
300Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *4
301Pongo Aretef7A+ **38
302The Dumbartonerf7A ** 
303Andy's Aretef7A **23
304Buzz Sawf7A+ 7
305Sorcerer's Slabf3 55
306Magic Wandf3+ 33
307Slantf3 36
308Shothole SSf6A+ 5
309The Groovef4+ 5
310Nemesis Leftf4+ 3
311Nemesisf5 *90
312Nemesis SSf5+ **16
313Nemesis SS Rightf6B+ 2
314Narcosisf5 *43
315Narcosis SSf6A *15
316Lunikf4+ *49
317Lunik SSf6A+ 7
318Rosie and Jimf5+ *10
319Cheddar Directf4+ ***154
320Cheddar Direct SSf6A 12
321Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *5
322Hard Cheddarf5+ ***198
323Hard Cheddar SSf6A 46
324Big Cheesef7C+ **3
325Le Rustiquef7A **5
326Cheese-boredf7A *4
327The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **13
328Juggief4 ***65
329The Ramp (Juggie Right)f5 7
330Phoenixf7A 4
331Consolidatedf7B+ ***37
332Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
333Babybelf6C+ *5
 SEA BOULDER  
335The Crackf3 9
336Short Wallf4+ 8
337White Streakf6B **72
338Steptoef3+ *137
339Red Streakf6A 88
340Chowbokf3+ **156
341Erewhonf4+ 159
342Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 22
343Commercial Routef4 **140
344Wednesday Wallf4 81
345Silver's Routef3+ *130
346Silver's Route SSf6C+ **7
347Silver Ribf3+ 5
348Silver Aretef6B 3
349Gardner's Girdlef4 ***67
 TRIPLETS  
351Short Sightf3+ 15
352Honestyf7A 9
353Reducer Arete Leftf5+ 7
354Reducer Aretef6A 16
355Reducerf7B 2
356Long Reachf5+ 12
357Short Noticef4+ 13
358Ivy Ribf5+ 4
359Ivy Traversef5 4
360Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 28
 BLACK WALL  
362The Niche Leftf5+ 5
363The Nichef6A 4
364Black Wall Crackf5+ 18
365Black Wall Circuitf6A *12
366Easy Crackf3+ 6
367Mick Tf4+ 5
368Mick T SSf6A 4
 EVERDRY WALL  
370LongbowE1 5b **74
371Longbow SSf5+ 4
372The Slopersf7A 2
373Old Man's Cornerf6A 2
374The Matchf6B 2
375This Place is Shitf6A 7
376Liddell, Ha and Crombief6C+  
377Shattered Traverse Highf6C 64
378Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **13
 CIRCUITS  
380JLS training circuitf6A 6a 63
381Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03