Dumbarton Rock

Climbs 370 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes
From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders. Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015), Scottish Sport Climbs (2013), Stone Country (2005), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAGS  
2BetaE1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon GullyS 4b *5
5Nameless CrackVD 1
6SnowhiteE2 5b **7
7Route ThreeHVS 5a *9
8Stonefall CrackHVS 5a **51
9Stonefall Crack DirectHVS 5a 27
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big ZipperE3 5b **26
12WoopsE4 6a **3
13Omerta7c **11
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***14
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 2
18Direquiem5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20RequiemE8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of AgesE3 6a *3
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***135
26First Movement6b+ **38
27Abstract Movement6b+ *4
28Abstract Art6c **100
29CyclopsE5 6b * 
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***28
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **4
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier8a **8
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **5
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Negative Creep8b 1
41Appliance of Violence7b+ **67
42Gratuitous Violence8a **1
43Eh GringoE4 5c * 
44DesperadoHVS 5a *15
45BlackoutE6 6a ** 
46WindjammerHVS 5a **83
47Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
48Bad Attitude7b **35
49Half Breed7b **53
50Unforgiven7b ***75
51Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
52Benny's Route Left-hand7b 13
53Benny's Route Right-hand7c *21
54Natural Born Drillers7a 66
55Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
56Easter RibS ***12
57Casanostra6c+ *7
58PlungeD ***32
 EAGLE BOULDER  
601920 TraverseVB 4a 17
61Rankin's BajinVB 4a 69
62Soixante Neuff3+ *78
63Pas Malf3 *58
64No.1 Routef3+ *91
65Left Directf3 **78
66Centre Directf4 *82
67Right Directf3 42
68No. 2 RouteVB 3a *51
69No. 2 Route SSf6B 8
70Pulloverf5 *128
71No.2 Route Directf4+ 44
72Runs on Potato Powerf7A *9
73Triple Bogeyf6C 2
74Double Bogeyf6B *12
75Kev's Problemf7A *16
76John's Dynof6B+ **9
77Ramp Traversef6C *9
78The Beastief6A *6
79Bust My Chops LHf7A ***18
80Bust My Chopsf7A **24
81Bust My Chops RHf7A *31
82Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **7
83Treasuref7B *7
84Treasure Huntf7B *7
85Fool's Goldf7A+ *9
86Old Faithfulf5 *6
87Zig Zagf4 ***124
88Zig Zag SSf6C *48
89Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **11
90Zig Zag Variationf6A 13
91Pullover Traversef5+ 13
92Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **14
93Double Slopersf6A 22
94Treasure Trailf7B **3
95The Bampot Chopf6C+ *4
96Total Bampotf7A **3
97Bampot Aretef6B+ *34
98Bampot Traversef7A **22
99Fouk Yeef7B *1
100Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 2
101Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 5
102Tam's Routef5+ 19
103Tam's Route Original SSf7A 1
104Shadowf7A+ **1
105The Story of the Hurricanef7A **1
106Trick of the Valef7B ** 
107High Flyerf6C 5
108Pressuref8B  
109Firefightf8B  
110Smokescreenf7C *3
111Firestarterf8A ***3
112Gorillaf6B ***92
113Gorilla Warfaref7A+ **17
114Gorilla Hanging Startf7A 25
115Neil's Extension/Gorilla SSf7B+ ***16
116Silver Backf7C ***14
117Silverback Aretef7C+ ***2
118King Kongf8A 6
119Cautious Lipf6B *21
120Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
121Shin Sekaif6C+ *11
122Hoopf7C ***4
123Laddermanf7C **1
124Bingham's Wallf7B+ **1
125Dressed for Successf7B+ **4
126Dressed into Fordf7C+  
127Dressed Reversedf7B+  
128Supinatorf6A+ *21
129Supinator XLf6B+  
130The Legacyf6B+  
1312HBf6A ***62
1322HB SSf6B 3
133A Ford Flashf7B 1
134Ford Caprif7A+  
135Torino Sunf6B **25
136Oceansf7C 5
137Sea Bedf8A ***2
1381990 Traversef7B *27
139Snappyf6B+ **11
140Yappyf6B+ **9
141The Blue Meanief5 ***127
142PTOf5 *116
 WARM-UP WALL  
144Left Edgef3 *198
145Tuesday Wallf3+ 18
146Fridays Fillf3 *272
147Friar's Mantlef4+ ***312
148Thursday Wallf5 19
149Ungavaf4+ 237
150Right Edgef3+ 173
151Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 136
 HOME RULE  
153Orange Wallf6A 6
154The Beastf3 42
155Beastedf6B  
156The Brutef4 11
157The Brute SSf5+ 4
158Valkyrief4+ 4
159Encore Une Foisf7A *6
160Pas Encoref5 *11
161Crimp!f6B+ 6
162More Chickenf7A+ *1
163Head Buttf7A 13
164More Malkstizof7A **1
165Chicken Buttf7A+ **1
166Butt Headf7A+ 1
167Malky Traversef7B+ **11
168Daggerf7B+ **5
169Malky's Chickenf7B+ 3
170Malkiedf7C ***10
171Malkyf7B+ *32
172Dwellerf7B+  
173Set in Motionf7C+  
174Hokkuf8A * 
175Soshof8A+ ** 
176Spamf7C *11
177Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
178Spam Daggerf8A *7
179Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **7
180Mugsy Traversef7B ***46
181Mugsy Sit Startf7B **12
182Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***21
183Mugsy (Ya Bass)f7A ***71
184Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
185Mestugsof7B **6
186Malky's Sleazy Chickenf8A ***1
187Thoroughbredf7C+ 7
188Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***12
189Mugstizof7B+ ***8
190Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **7
191Mestizo Traversef7B **44
192Mestizo SSf7A+ **57
193Mestizof6A ***102
194Mestizo 'Direct'f7A 3
195Art Attackf7B 3
196Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
197Physical Graffitif6B **55
198Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **4
199Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
200Home Rulef6A **128
201Devolutionf6C **10
202Devo Maxf6C *4
203Spray Onf7B * 
204Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *19
205Home Rule High Traversef6B **34
206Bob's Problemf6A 8
207Presencef5+ *22
208Royale Beautyf6B * 
209Route RoyaleE3 5c 13
210Chicken Royalef6C 1
211Royal Aretef6B  
212The WhipE2 5b **23
213The Whip SSf6C *24
214The Whip SS Directf6A+ *4
215The Switchf5 3
216Einherjarf6B+ *2
217Skin Deepf6B+ *3
218Valhallaf4 8
219The Beautyf4 7
 SUCKERS BOULDER  
221P.S.f3 5a 16
222Cave Routef6A 3
223Cave Route RHf6A+ 10
224Unnamedf7A 6
225Totof6A ***182
226Toto SSf7A 68
227Toto Right Handf6C **16
228Totalledf7B **3
229Totalityf7B+ 12
230Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *17
231Toto Traversef7A+ 2
232The Shieldf7B+ ***20
233The Shield SSf7C **4
234The Shield Right Handf7A+ *7
235The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
236Redpath's Problemf7B  
237Power Pocketsf6C *18
238Power Pockets SSf7C * 
239Off The Railsf7A+ **1
240Railingf6B+ **120
241Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
242Snooker Shelff4 33
243Kneebarf6A+ *13
244Moscaf3+ 12
245Antimatterf4 2
246Suckers Slabf4+ 13
247Volponef3 *38
248Smear Testf3 4
 B.N.I BOULDER  
250Chahala Easy SSf6A 3
251Chahalaf5+ **67
252Chahala SSf8A+  
253Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
254Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
255The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
256The Grand Tourf8B  
257Sanctionf8B ***1
258Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
259B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***12
260Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **6
261La Saboteurf8A+ ***4
262Sabotagedf8A ***2
263Sabotagef8A ***14
264The Elbow Basherf7B+ 5
265Very Apef6C 1
266Good Nicksf6B **47
267Good Nicks SSf6C **16
268You're Nickedf7B 2
269HPf6B+ 3
270Pendulumf4 ***24
271RevelationE4 6a  
272NadjilationE6 6b ** 
273Sugar Rushf7B  
274Harvester of Eyesf3 19
275AstronomyVB 3a 25
276Deo Gratisf4+ *17
277Imposter Aretef3+ ***55
278B.N.I. Directf5+ 3
279B.N.I.f5 ***11
 PONGO BOULDER  
281Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 7
282Skint Knucklesf4 *61
283Skint Sitterf6C+ 4
284Slap Happy SSf7A 4
285Slap Happyf7A **116
286Hap Slappyf7B+ 23
287Slap Happy Dynof7C ***3
288Happy Slapf7C+ *3
289Paedo Bikinif7C *1
290In Bloomf7C+ ***14
291In Bloom Aretef8A **1
292Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
293Mr Ticklef8A **1
294Pongof6C+ ***55
295Pongo True SSf8A ***8
296Pongo Jumpf7B 3
297Pongo Staticf7B+ 4
298Pongo Knucklef7C 4
299Supersize Mef8B  
300Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *3
301Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *4
302Pongo Aretef7A+ **38
303The Dumbartonerf7A ** 
304Andy's Aretef7A **25
305Buzz Sawf7A+ 7
306Sorcerer's Slabf3 55
307Magic Wandf3+ 33
308Slantf3 36
309Shothole SSf6A+ 6
310The Groovef4+ 5
311Nemesis Leftf4+ 3
312Nemesisf5 *91
313Nemesis SSf6B **18
314Nemesis SS Rightf6B+ 3
315Narcosisf5 *44
316Narcosis SSf6A *15
317Lunikf4+ *49
318Lunik SSf6A+ 7
319Rosie and Jimf5+ *11
320Cheddar Directf4+ ***154
321Cheddar Direct SSf6A 12
322Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *5
323Hard Cheddarf5+ ***199
324Hard Cheddar SSf6A 46
325Big Cheesef7C+ **3
326Le Rustiquef7A **5
327Cheese-boredf7A *4
328The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **14
329Juggief4 ***67
330The Ramp (Juggie Right)f5 9
331Phoenixf7A 4
332Consolidatedf7B+ ***37
333Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
334Babybelf6C+ *5
 SEA BOULDER  
336The Crackf3 10
337Short Wallf4+ 9
338White Streakf6B **73
339Steptoef3+ *140
340Red Streakf6A 88
341Chowbokf3+ **158
342Erewhonf4+ 160
343Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 22
344Commercial Routef4 **141
345Wednesday Wallf4 81
346Silver's Routef3+ *130
347Silver's Route SSf6C+ **7
348Silver Ribf3+ 5
349Silver Aretef6B 3
350Gardner's Girdlef4 ***67
 TRIPLETS  
352Short Sightf3+ 15
353Honestyf7A 9
354Reducer Arete Leftf5+ 7
355Reducer Aretef6A 16
356Reducerf7B 2
357Long Reachf5+ 12
358Short Noticef4+ 13
359Ivy Ribf5+ 4
360Ivy Traversef5 4
361Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 28
 BLACK WALL  
363The Niche Leftf5+ 5
364The Nichef6A 5
365Black Wall Crackf5+ 18
366Black Wall Circuitf6A *12
367Easy Crackf3+ 6
368Mick Tf4+ 6
369Mick T SSf6A 5
 EVERDRY WALL  
371LongbowE1 5b **76
372Longbow SSf5+ 5
373The Slopersf7A 2
374Old Man's Cornerf6A 3
375The Matchf6B 2
376This Place is Shitf6A 8
377Liddell, Ha and Crombief6C+  
378Shattered Traverse Highf6C 68
379Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **13
 CIRCUITS  
381JLS training circuitf6A 6a 63
382Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03