Dumbarton Rock

Climbs 366 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Access notes
From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders. Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Stone Country (2005), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAGS  
2BetaE1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon GullyS 4b *5
5Nameless CrackVD 1
6SnowhiteE2 5b **7
7Route ThreeHVS 5a *9
8Stonefall CrackHVS 5a **49
9Stonefall Crack DirectHVS 5a 23
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big ZipperE3 5b **25
12WoopsE4 6a **3
13Omerta7c **8
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***14
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 2
18Direquiem5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20RequiemE8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of AgesE3 6a *3
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***123
26First Movement6b+ **28
27Abstract Movement6b+ *3
28Abstract Art6c **81
29CyclopsE5 6b * 
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***27
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **4
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier8a **8
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **5
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Longbow SSf5+ 3
41LongbowE1 5b **68
42Negative Creep8b 1
43Appliance of Violence7b+ **54
44Gratuitous Violence8a **1
45Eh GringoE4 5c * 
46DesperadoHVS 5a *14
47BlackoutE6 6a ** 
48WindjammerHVS 5a **79
49Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
50Bad Attitude7b **33
51Half Breed7b **52
52Unforgiven7b ***63
53Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
54Benny's Route Left-hand7b 13
55Benny's Route Right-hand7c *20
56Natural Born Drillers7a 65
57Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
58Easter RibS ***11
59Casanostra6c+ *3
60PlungeD ***28
 EAGLE BOULDER  
621920 TraverseVB 4a 14
63Rankin's BajinVB 4a 65
64Soixante Neuff3+ *73
65Pas Malf3 *54
66No.1 Routef3+ *86
67Left Directf3 **76
68Centre Directf4 *78
69Right Directf3 41
70No. 2 RouteVB 3a *48
71No. 2 Route SSf6B 5
72Pulloverf5 *119
73No.2 Route Directf4+ 40
74Runs on Potato Powerf7A *9
75Double Bogeyf6B *10
76Kev's Problemf7A *14
77John's Dynof6B+ **7
78Ramp Traversef6C *8
79The Beastief6A *4
80Bust My Chops LHf7A ***13
81Bust My Chopsf7A **20
82Bust My Chops RHf7A *25
83Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **5
84Treasuref7B *6
85Treasure Huntf7B *6
86Fool's Goldf7A+ *6
87Old Faithfulf5 *4
88Zig Zagf4 ***112
89Zig Zag SSf6C *42
90Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **10
91Zig Zag Variationf6A 12
92Pullover Traversef5+ 11
93Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **12
94Double Slopersf6A 19
95Treasure Trailf7B **1
96The Bampot Chopf6C+ *3
97Total Bampotf7A **1
98Bampot Aretef6B+ *33
99Bampot Traversef7A **20
100Fouk Yeef7B *1
101Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 2
102Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 5
103Tam's Routef5+ 19
104Tam's Route Original SSf7A  
105Shadowf7A+ **1
106The Story of the Hurricanef7A ** 
107Trick of the Valef7B ** 
108High Flyerf6C 5
109Pressuref8B  
110Firefightf8B  
111Smokescreenf7C *3
112Firestarterf8A ***1
113Gorillaf6B ***80
114Gorilla Warfaref7A+ **15
115Gorilla Hanging Startf7A 22
116Neil's Extension/Gorilla SSf7B+ ***15
117Silver Backf7C ***13
118Silverback Aretef7C+ ***2
119King Kongf8A 6
120Cautious Lipf6B *18
121Shin Sekaif6C+ *10
122Hoopf7C ***3
123Laddermanf7C **1
124Bingham's Wallf7B+ **1
125Dressed for Successf7B+ **4
126Dressed into Fordf7C+  
127Dressed Reversedf7B+  
128Supinatorf6A+ *21
1292HBf6A ***57
1302HB SSf6B 3
131A Ford Flashf7B 1
132Ford Caprif7A+  
133Torino Sunf6B **25
134Oceansf7C 3
135Sea Bedf8A ***2
1361990 Traversef7B *26
137Snappyf6B+ **11
138Yappyf6B+ **9
139The Blue Meanief5 ***122
140PTOf5 *108
 WARM-UP WALL  
142Left Edgef3 *178
143Tuesday Wallf3+ 4
144Fridays Fillf3 *251
145Friar's Mantlef4+ ***278
146Thursday Wallf5 4
147Ungavaf4+ 210
148Right Edgef3+ 154
149Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 112
 HOME RULE  
151Orange Wallf6A 5
152The Beastf3 39
153Beastedf6B  
154The Brutef4 9
155The Brute SSf5+ 4
156Valkyrief4+ 4
157Encore Une Foisf7A *4
158Pas Encoref5 *11
159Crimp!f6B+ 5
160More Chickenf7A+ * 
161Head Buttf7A 11
162Butt Headf7A+  
163Malky Traversef7B+ **10
164Daggerf7B+ **2
165Malkiedf7C ***7
166Malkyf7B+ *28
167Dwellerf7B+  
168Set in Motionf7C+  
169Hokkuf8A * 
170Soshof8A+ ** 
171Spamf7C *11
172Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
173Spam Daggerf8A *7
174Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **7
175Mugsy Traversef7B ***38
176Mugsy Sit Startf7B **7
177Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***15
178Mugsy (Ya Bass)f7A ***59
179Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
180Mestugsof7B **4
181Thoroughbredf7C+ 5
182Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***9
183Mugstizof7B+ ***8
184Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **7
185Mestizo Traversef7B **37
186Mestizo SSf7A+ **47
187Mestizof6A ***93
188Mestizo 'Direct'f7A  
189Art Attackf7B 1
190Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
191Physical GraffitiE5 6b **45
192Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **3
193Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
194Home Rulef6A **116
195Devolutionf6C **10
196Devo Maxf6C *3
197Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *17
198Home Rule High Traversef6B **31
199Bob's Problemf6A 8
200Presencef5+ *22
201Royale Beautyf6B * 
202Route RoyaleE3 5c 13
203Chicken Royalef6C 1
204Royal Aretef6B  
205The WhipE2 5b **19
206The Whip SSf6C *21
207The Whip SS Directf6A+ *3
208The Switchf5 2
209Einherjarf6B+ *2
210Skin Deepf6B+ *3
211Valhallaf4 7
212The Beautyf4 7
 SUCKERS BOULDER  
214P.S.f3 5a 16
215Cave Routef6A 2
216Cave Route RHf6A+ 7
217Unnamedf7A 4
218Totof6A ***166
219Toto SSf7A 56
220Toto Right Handf6C **11
221Totalledf7B **2
222Totalityf7B+ 11
223Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *15
224Toto Traversef7A+ 2
225The Shieldf7B+ ***20
226The Shield SSf7C **2
227The Shield Right Handf7A+ *5
228The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
229Redpath's Problemf7B  
230Power Pocketsf6C *18
231Power Pockets SSf7C * 
232Off The Railsf7A+ **1
233Railingf6B+ **115
234Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
235Snooker Shelff4 31
236Kneebarf6A+ *12
237Moscaf3+ 12
238Antimatterf4 2
239Suckers Slabf4+ 13
240Volponef3 *37
241Smear Testf3 3
 B.N.I BOULDER  
243Chahala Easy SSf6A 1
244Chahalaf5+ **62
245Chahala SSf8A+  
246Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
247Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
248The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
249The Grand Tourf8B  
250Sanctionf8B ***1
251Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
252B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***11
253Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **6
254La Saboteurf8A+ ***3
255Sabotagedf8A ***2
256Sabotagef8A ***13
257The Elbow Basherf7B+ 5
258Very Apef6C 1
259Good Nicksf6B **44
260Good Nicks SSf6C **16
261You're Nickedf7B 2
262HPf6B+ 3
263Pendulumf4 ***24
264RevelationE4 6a  
265NadjilationE6 6b ** 
266Sugar Rushf7B  
267Harvester of Eyesf3 19
268AstronomyVB 3a 24
269Deo Gratisf4+ *16
270Imposter Aretef3+ ***52
271B.N.I. Directf5+ 2
272B.N.I.f5 ***10
 PONGO BOULDER  
274Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 5
275Skint Knucklesf4 *60
276Skint Sitterf6C+ 2
277Slap Happy SSf7A 3
278Slap Happyf7A **100
279Hap Slappyf7B+ 20
280Slap Happy Dynof7C ***1
281Happy Slapf7C+ *1
282Paedo Bikinif7C *1
283In Bloomf7C+ ***11
284Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
285Mr Ticklef8A **1
286Pongof6C+ ***49
287Pongo True SSf8A ***8
288Pongo Jumpf7B 3
289Pongo Staticf7B+ 4
290Pongo Knucklef7C 4
291Supersize Mef8B  
292Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *3
293Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *3
294Pongo Aretef7A+ **34
295Andy's Aretef7A **20
296Buzz Sawf7A+ 7
297Sorcerer's Slabf3 52
298Magic Wandf3+ 31
299Slantf3 34
300Shothole SSf6A+ 4
301The Groovef4+ 4
302Nemesis Leftf4+ 2
303Nemesisf5 *86
304Nemesis SSf5+ **15
305Nemesis SS Rightf6B+ 1
306Narcosisf5 *39
307Narcosis SSf6A *15
308Lunikf4+ *45
309Lunik SSf6A+ 5
310Rosie and Jimf5+ *5
311Cheddar Directf4+ ***144
312Cheddar Direct SSf6A 5
313Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *1
314Hard Cheddarf5+ ***185
315Hard Cheddar SSf6A 39
316Big Cheesef7C+ **3
317Juggief4 ***61
318The Ramp (Juggie Right)f5 5
319Phoenixf7A 2
320The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **13
321Consolidatedf7B+ ***35
322Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
323Babybelf6C+ *5
 SEA BOULDER  
325The Crackf3 5
326Short Wallf4+ 4
327White Streakf6B **69
328Steptoef3+ *127
329Red Streakf6A 81
330Chowbokf3+ **146
331Erewhonf4+ 149
332Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 21
333Commercial Routef4 **133
334Wednesday Wallf4 75
335Silver's Routef3+ *119
336Silver's Route SSf6C+ **7
337Silver Ribf3+ 4
338Silver Aretef6B 2
339Gardner's Girdlef4 ***62
 TRIPLETS  
341Short Sightf3+ 14
342Honestyf7A 7
343Reducer Arete Leftf5+ 4
344Reducer Aretef6A 13
345Reducerf7B 2
346Long Reachf5+ 11
347Short Noticef4+ 11
348Ivy Ribf5+ 3
349Ivy Traversef5 4
350Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 28
 BLACK WALL  
352The Niche Leftf5+ 4
353The Nichef6A 3
354Black Wall Crackf5+ 17
355Black Wall Circuitf6A *9
356Easy Crackf3+ 5
357Mick Tf4+ 5
358Mick T SSf6A 2
 EVERDRY WALL  
360The Slopersf7A  
361Old Man's Cornerf6A 2
362The Matchf6B 1
363This Place is Shitf6A 6
364Liddell, Ha and Crombief6C+  
365Shattered Traverse Highf6C 61
366Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **13
 CIRCUITS  
368JLS training circuitf6A 6a 63
369Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1
370Mugly *f7B+  
371Mugs Life *f7C  
372Life of Spam *f8A  
373Chihauhau *f8B  
374Cave Motion Jungle Drum Super Direct sds ss js lh rh *f8C 7c  
375Mother Glasgow's Starlings *f7B+ *** 
376Supinator XL *f6B+ ?  
377The Legacy *f6B+ ?  
378Le Rustique *f7A **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03