Climbs 372
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Crags 
2Beta
-
E1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b *5
5Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
6Snowhite
-
E2 5b **7
7Route Three
-
HVS 5a *10
8Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a **67
9Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 28
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b **28
12WoopsE4 6a **3
13Omerta7c **24
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***47
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out
-
5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 18
18Direquiem
-
5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20Requiem
-
E8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a *3
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***177
26First Movement6b+ **50
27Abstract Movement6b+ *4
28Abstract Art6c **121
29Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***54
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **4
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier
-
8a **9
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **5
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Negative Creep8b 1
41Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ **74
42Gratuitous Violence8a **1
43Eh GringoE4 5c * 
44DesperadoHVS 5a *16
45BlackoutE6 6a **1
46Windjammer
-
HVS 5a **115
47Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
48Bad Attitude
-
7b **35
49Half Breed
-
7b **61
50Unforgiven
-
7b ***93
51Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
52Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 15
53Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c *30
54Natural Born Drillers7a 75
55Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
56Easter Rib
-
S ***22
57Casanostra6c+ *7
58Plunge
-
D ***32
 Eagle Boulder 
601920 TraverseVB 19
61Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 73
62Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ *87
63Pas Mal
-
f3 *69
64No.1 Route
-
f3+ *98
65Left Direct
-
f3 **88
66Centre Direct
-
f4 *93
67Right Directf3 46
68No. 2 Route
-
VB *54
69No. 2 Route SSf6B 11
70Pullover
-
f5 *139
71No.2 Route Directf4+ 48
72Runs on Potato Powerf7A *12
73Triple Bogeyf6C 4
74Double Bogeyf6B *13
75Kev's Problemf7A *20
76John's Dynof6B+ **11
77Ramp Traversef6C *11
78The Beastief6A *6
79Bust My Chops LHf7A ***28
80Bust My Chopsf7A **28
81Bust My Chops RHf7A *35
82Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **10
83Treasuref7B *9
84Treasure Huntf7B *8
85Fool's Goldf7A+ *11
86Old Faithfulf5 *8
87Zig Zagf4 ***137
88Zig Zag SSf6C *54
89Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **13
90Zig Zag Variationf6A 14
91Pullover Traversef5+ 15
92Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **16
93Double Slopersf6A 23
94Treasure Trailf7B **3
95The Bampot Chopf6C+ *5
96Total Bampotf7A **3
97Bampot Aretef6B+ *35
98Bampot Traversef7A **23
99Fouk Yeef7B *1
100Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 3
101Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 5
102Tam's Routef5+ 19
103Tam's Route Original SSf7A 1
104Shadow
-
f7A+ **1
105The Story of the Hurricanef7A **1
106Trick of the Valef7B **1
107High Flyer
-
f6C 6
108Pressure
-
f8B  
109Firefight
-
f8B  
110Smokescreenf7C *3
111Firestarter
-
f8A ***3
112Gorilla
-
f6B ***118
113Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ **18
114Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 30
115Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ ***19
116Silver Back
-
f7C ***24
117Silverback Aretef7C+ ***3
118King Kongf8A 13
119Cautious Lipf6B *26
120Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
121Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ *12
122Hoopf7C ***5
123Laddermanf7C **1
124Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ **1
125Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ **4
126Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
127Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
128Supinator
-
f6A+ *23
129Supinator XLf6B+ 1
130The Legacyf6B+ 1
1312HB
-
f6A ***68
1322HB SSf6B 5
133A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
134Ford Caprif7A+  
135Torino Sunf6B **26
136Oceans
-
f7C 5
137Sea Bedf8A ***2
1381990 Traversef7B *33
1392016 Traversef7B+ * 
140Snappyf6B+ **12
141Yappyf6B+ **9
142The Blue Meanief5 ***153
143PTO
-
f5 *136
 Warm-up Wall 
145Left Edge
-
f3 *224
146Tuesday Wallf3+ 30
147Fridays Fillf3 *300
148Friar's Mantlef4+ ***352
149Thursday Wallf5 39
150Ungavaf4+ 263
151Right Edgef3+ 198
152Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 154
 Home Rule 
154Orange Wallf6A 6
155The Beastf3 48
156Beasted
-
f6B  
157The Brute
-
f4 12
158The Brute SSf5+ 4
159Valkyrie
-
f4+ 5
160Encore Une Foisf7A *6
161Pas Encoref5 *12
162Crimp!f6B+ 7
163More Chicken
-
f7A+ *1
164Head Buttf7A 13
165More Malkstizof7A **1
166Chicken Buttf7A+ **1
167Butt Headf7A+ 2
168Malky Traversef7B+ **13
169Daggerf7B+ **5
170Malky's Chickenf7B+ 4
171Malkiedf7C ***10
172Malkyf7B+ *41
173Dwellerf7B+  
174Set in Motionf7C+  
175Hokkuf8A * 
176Soshof8A+ ** 
177Spamf7C *19
178Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
179Spam Daggerf8A *7
180Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **8
181Mugsy Traversef7B ***54
182Mugsy Sit Startf7B **16
183Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***33
184Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A ***81
185Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
186Mestugsof7B **11
187Malky's Sleazy Chickenf8A ***2
188Thoroughbredf7C+ 8
189Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***14
190Mugstizof7B+ ***13
191Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **8
192Mestizo Traverse
-
f7B **53
193Mestizo SS
-
f7A+ **70
194Mestizof6A ***127
195Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
196Art Attackf7B 3
197Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
198Physical Graffitif6B **76
199Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **4
200Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
201Home Rule
-
f6A **154
202Devolutionf6C **16
203Devo Maxf6C *7
204Spray Onf7B * 
205Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *25
206Home Rule High Traversef6B **39
207Bob's Problem
-
f6A 9
208Presencef5+ *24
209Royale Beautyf6B *1
210Route RoyaleE3 5c 14
211Chicken Royalef6C 1
212Royal Aretef6B 1
213The WhipE2 5b **28
214The Whip SSf6C *28
215The Whip SS Directf6A+ *5
216The Switchf5 4
217Einherjarf6B+ *2
218Skin Deepf6B+ *3
219Valhallaf4 11
220The Beauty
-
f4 8
 Suckers Boulder 
222P.S.
-
f3 16
223Cave Routef6A 4
224Cave Route RHf6A+ 10
225Unnamedf7A 8
226Toto
-
f6A ***221
227Toto SSf7A 85
228Toto Right Handf6C **16
229Totalledf7B **4
230Totalityf7B+ 12
231Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *20
232Toto Traversef7A+ 5
233The Shield
-
f7B+ ***29
234The Shield SS
-
f7C **4
235The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ *8
236The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
237Redpath's Problemf7B  
238Power Pockets
-
f6C *20
239Power Pockets SS
-
f7C * 
240Off The Railsf7A+ **1
241Railing
-
f6B+ **141
242Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
243Snooker Shelf
-
f4 40
244Kneebar
-
f6A+ *13
245Mosca
-
f3+ 13
246Antimatterf4 2
247Suckers Slab
-
f4+ 13
248Volpone
-
f3 *40
249Smear Testf3 4
 B.N.I Boulder 
251Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 3
252Chahalaf5+ **81
253Chahala SS
-
f8A+  
254Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
255Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
256The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
257The Grand Tourf8B  
258Sanctionf8B ***1
259Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
260B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***13
261Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **7
262La Saboteurf8A+ ***4
263Sabotagedf8A ***2
264Sabotagef8A ***23
265The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 5
266Very Ape
-
f6C 1
267Good Nicks
-
f6B **49
268Good Nicks SS
-
f6C **16
269You're Nicked
-
f7B 2
270HPf6B+ 4
271Pendulum
-
f4 ***27
272RevelationE4 6a  
273NadjilationE6 6b ** 
274Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
275Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 19
276Astronomy
-
VB 26
277Deo Gratis
-
f4+ *20
278Imposter Aretef3+ ***60
279B.N.I. Directf5+ 5
280B.N.I.
-
f5 ***13
 Pongo Boulder 
282Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 8
283Skint Knuckles
-
f4 *64
284Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 4
285Slap Happy SSf7A 6
286Slap Happy
-
f7A **157
287Hap Slappy
-
f7B+ 31
288Slap Happy Dynof7C ***3
289Happy Slapf7C+ *6
290Paedo Bikinif7C *1
291In Bloom
-
f7C+ ***21
292In Bloom Aretef8A **1
293Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
294Mr Ticklef8A **1
295Pongo
-
f6C+ ***61
296Pongo True SSf8A ***19
297Pongo Jumpf7B 4
298Pongo Staticf7B+ 5
299Pongo Knucklef7C 4
300Supersize Mef8B  
301Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *4
302Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *5
303Pongo Aretef7A+ **52
304The Dumbartonerf7A ** 
305Andy's Aretef7A **33
306Buzz Sawf7A+ 8
307Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 59
308Magic Wand
-
f3+ 33
309Slant
-
f3 37
310Shothole SSf6A+ 9
311The Groovef4+ 6
312Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 3
313Nemesisf5 *95
314Nemesis SSf6B **21
315Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
316Narcosisf5 *45
317Narcosis SSf6A *20
318Lunikf4+ *53
319Lunik SSf6A+ 10
320Rosie and Jimf5+ *15
321Cheddar Direct
-
f4+ ***165
322Cheddar Direct SSf6A 16
323Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *9
324Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ ***216
325Hard Cheddar SSf6A 59
326Big Cheese
-
f7C+ **3
327Le Rustiquef7A **6
328Cheese-boredf7A *5
329The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **15
330Juggie
-
f4 ***72
331The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 11
332Jugs are for Mugsf6B *3
333Phoenixf7A 5
334Consolidatedf7B+ ***50
335Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
336Babybelf6C+ *6
 Sea Boulder 
338The Crackf3 13
339Short Wallf4+ 11
340White Streakf6B **86
341Steptoef3+ *151
342Red Streak
-
f6A 96
343Chowbok
-
f3+ **173
344Erewhonf4+ 174
345Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 23
346Commercial Route
-
f4 **152
347Wednesday Wall
-
f4 88
348Silver's Route
-
f3+ *141
349Silver's Route SSf6C+ **9
350Silver Ribf3+ 8
351Silver Aretef6B 4
352Gardner's Girdlef4 ***70
 Triplets 
354Short Sight
-
f3+ 18
355Honestyf7A 10
356Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 9
357Reducer Arete
-
f6A 18
358Reducer
-
f7B 4
359Long Reach
-
f5+ 12
360Short Notice
-
f4+ 13
361Ivy Ribf5+ 4
362Ivy Traversef5 4
363Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 30
 Black Wall 
365The Niche Leftf5+ 6
366The Niche
-
f6A 5
367Black Wall Crackf5+ 22
368Black Wall Circuitf6A *15
369Easy Crackf3+ 7
370Mick Tf4+ 7
371Mick T SSf6A 6
 everdry wall 
373Longbow
-
E1 5b **96
374Longbow SS
-
f5+ 7
375The Slopersf7A 2
376Old Man's Cornerf6A 5
377The Matchf6B 3
378This Place is Shitf6A 11
379Liddell, Ha and Crombief6A+ 1
380Shattered Traverse Highf6C 78
381Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **19
 Circuits 
383JLS training circuitf6A 64
384Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1

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