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These details were last updated on 20/Aug/2009

Dumbarton Rock

West Dumbarton, SCOTLAND

Climbs 285 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude Tidal – Faces NW

Crag features
Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7 7a) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Southern Uplands – Met Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Stone Country (2005), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN CRAGS  
2BetaE1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon GullyS 4b *5
5Nameless CrackVD 1
6SnowhiteE2 5b **6
7Route ThreeHVS 5a *7
8Stonefall CrackHVS 5a **39
9Stonefall Crack DirectHVS 5a 16
10The Big ZipperE3 5b **19
11WoopsE4 6a **3
12Omerta7c **8
13Chemin de FerE5 6a ***13
14AchemineE9 6c *** 
15Cop Out5.13c r ** 
16RhapsodyE11 7a 1
17Direquiem5.14a r ** 
18RequiemE8 6b ***2
19Rock of AgesE3 6a *3
20Persistence of Vision7a+ ***90
21Abstract Art6c **57
22CyclopsE5 6b * 
23Dum Dum Boys7c+ ***7
24Sufferance8a ***24
25Endurance8a **6
26Suffix8a **4
27Persistance8a *1
28Tarrier8a **6
29Tolerance8b **2
30Fever PitchE4 5c *2
31LongbowE1 5b **48
32Appliance of Violence7b+ **41
33Gratuitous Violence8a ** 
34DesperadoHVS 5a *11
35BlackoutE6 6a ** 
36WindjammerHVS 5a **67
37Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
38Bad Attitude7b **5
39Half Breed7b **29
40Unforgiven7b ***43
41Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
42Benny's Route Left-hand7b 10
43Benny's Route Right-hand7c *18
44Natural Born Drillers7a 52
45Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
46Easter RibS ***10
47Casanostra6c+ *2
48PlungeD ***22
49West Face GirdleVS 4c **6
 EAGLE BOULDER  
511920 TraverseVB 4a 6
52Rankin's BajinVB 4a 48
53Soixante Neuffont 3+ *55
54Pas Malfont 3 *37
55No.1 Routefont 3+ *69
56Left Directfont 3 **60
57Centre Directfont 4 *58
58Right Directfont 3 26
59No. 2 RouteVB 3a *34
60Pulloverfont 5 *95
61No.2 Route Directfont 4+ 33
62Runs on Potato Powerf7A *7
63Double Bogeyf6B *3
64Kev's Problemf7A *9
65John's Dynof7A **3
66Ramp Traversef6C *4
67Bust My Chops LHf7A ***10
68Bust My Chopsf7A **16
69Bust My Chops RHf7B *19
70Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **4
71Treasuref7B *5
72Treasure Huntf7B *6
73Fool's Goldf7A+ *5
74Zig Zagfont 4 ***93
75Zig Zag SSf6C *32
76Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **5
77Zig Zag Variationf6A 8
78Pullover Traversefont 5+ 4
79Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **11
80Double Slopersf6A 12
81Treasure Trailf7B **1
82The Bampot Chopf6C+ *1
83Bampot Aretef6B+ *19
84Bampot Traversef7A **14
85Fouk Yeef7B *1
86Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 2
87Tam's Routefont 5+ 14
88Shadowf7A+ **1
89The Story of the Hurricanef7A ** 
90Trick of the Valef7B ** 
91High Flyerf6C 3
92Pressuref8B  
93Firefightf8B  
94Smokescreenf7C *3
95Firestarterf8A ***1
96Gorillaf6B ***62
97Gorilla SSf7B ***3
98Gorilla Warfaref7A+ **10
99Gorilla Hanging Startf7A 20
100Neil's Extensionf7B+ 7
101Silver Backf7C ***12
102Silverback Aretef7C+ ***2
103King Kongf8A 5
104Cautious Lipf6B *16
105Shin Sekaif6C+ *8
106Hoopf7C ***3
107Laddermanf7C **1
108Bingham's Wallf7B+ ** 
109Dressed for Successf7B+ **4
110Supinatorf6A+ *18
1112HBf6A ***45
112A Ford Flashf7B 1
113Torino Sunf6B **20
114Oceansf7C 3
115Sea Bedf8A ***1
1161990 Traversef7B *18
117Snappyf6B+ **10
118Yappyf6B+ **8
119The Blue Meaniefont 5 ***96
120PTOfont 5 *87
 WARM-UP WALL  
122Left Edgefont 3 *133
123Fridays Fillfont 3 *198
124Friar's Mantlefont 4+ ***222
125Ungavafont 4+ 168
126Right Edgefont 3+ 119
127Warmup Wall Low Traversefont 5 86
 HOME RULE  
129The Beastfont 3 28
130Beastedf6B  
131The Brutefont 4 4
132Valkyriefont 4+  
133Pas Encorefont 5 *5
134Crimp!f6C+ 1
135More Chickenf7A+ * 
136Head Buttf7A 11
137Butt Headf7A+  
138Malkyf7B+ *22
139Malky Traversef7B+ **9
140Malkiedf7C ***6
141Spamf7C *7
142Spam Daggerf8A *5
143Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***4
144Dwellerf7B+  
145Set in Motionf7C+  
146Hokkuf8A * 
147Soshof8A+ ** 
148Mugsy (Ya Bass)f7A ***42
149Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***2
 Climb nameGradex
150Mugsy Sit Startf7B+ **1
151Mugsy Traversef7B ***29
152Mestugsof7B **1
153Mugstizof7B+ ***7
154Mestizof6A ***72
155Mestizo SSf7A+ **36
156Mestizo Traversef7B **26
157Thoroughbredf7C+ 5
158Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***8
159Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **6
160Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **6
161Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
162Physical GraffitiE5 6b **22
163Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
164Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **3
165Home Rulef6A **83
166Devolutionf6C **4
167Devo Maxf6C *3
168Home Rule High Traversef6B **26
169Home Rule Low Traversef7A *14
170Bob's Problemf6A 4
171Presencefont 5+ *18
172Royale Beautyf6B * 
173Route RoyaleE3 5c 12
174Chicken Royalef6C  
175The WhipE2 5b **17
176The Whip SSf6C *14
177The Switchfont 5 1
178Einherjarf6B+ *1
179Skin Deepf6B+ *1
180Valhallafont 4 3
181The Beautyfont 4 2
 SUCKERS BOULDER  
183P.S.font 3 5a 9
184Cave Route RHf6A+ 3
185Totof6A ***116
186Toto SSf7A 43
187Toto Right Handf6C **2
188Totalityf7B+ 9
189Totality Direct Finishf7B *8
190Toto Traversef7A+ 1
191The Shieldf7B+ ***16
192The Shield SSf7C **1
193The Shield Right Handf7A+ *3
194The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
195Power Pocketsf6C *11
196Power Pockets SSf7C * 
197Off The Railsf7A+ **1
198Railingf6B+ **97
199Snooker Shelffont 4 24
200KneebarV3 6a *7
201Moscafont 3+ 8
202Suckers Slabfont 4+ 9
203Volponefont 3 *26
 B.N.I BOULDER  
205Chahalafont 5+ **45
206Chahala SSf8A+  
207Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
208The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
209The Grand Tourf8B  
210Sanctionf8B ***1
211Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
212B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***10
213Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **5
214La Saboteurf8A+ ***3
215Sabotagedf8A ***2
216Sabotagef8A ***10
217The Elbow Basherf7B+ 3
218Very Apef6C  
219Good Nicksf6B **44
220Good Nicks SSf6C **15
221Pendulumfont 4 ***20
222RevelationE4 6a  
223NadjilationE6 6b ** 
224Sugar Rushf7B  
225Harvester of Eyesfont 3 14
226AstronomyVB 3a 18
227Deo Gratisfont 4+ *11
228Imposter Aretefont 3+ ***39
229B.N.I. Directfont 5+ 2
230B.N.I.font 5 ***9
231You're Nickedf7B 1
 PONGO BOULDER  
233Skint Knucklesfont 4 *49
234Slap Happy SSf7A 1
235Slap Happyf7A **81
236Hap Slappyf7B+ 16
237Slap Happy Dynof7C ***1
238Happy Slapf7C+ *1
239Paedo Bikinif7C *1
240In Bloomf7C+ ***9
241Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
242Mr Ticklef8A **1
243Pongof6C+ ***36
244Pongo True SSf8A ***7
245Pongo Jumpf7B 2
246Pongo Staticf7B+ 3
247Pongo Knucklef7C 4
248Supersize Mef8B  
249Pongo Aretef7A+ **20
250The Dumbartonerf7B  
251Andy's Aretef7A **16
252Buzz Sawf7A+ 6
253Sorcerer's Slabfont 3 45
254Magic Wandfont 3+ 26
255Slantfont 3 24
256Nemesisfont 5 *74
257Nemesis SSfont 5+ **6
258Narcosisfont 5 *33
259Narcosis SSf6A *6
260Lunikfont 4+ *37
261Cheddar Directfont 4+ ***115
262Hard Cheddarfont 5+ ***149
263Hard Cheddar SSf6A 26
264Big Cheesef7C+ **2
265Juggiefont 4 ***46
266The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **6
267Consolidatedf7B+ ***32
268Consolidated Extensionf7C ***20
269Babybelf6C+ *1
 SEA BOULDER  
271White Streakf6B **56
272Steptoefont 3+ *103
273Red Streakf6A 68
274Chowbokfont 3+ **119
275Erewhonfont 4+ 130
276Tuesday TreatV1 5b 11
277Commercial Routefont 4 **115
278Wednesday Wallfont 4 58
279Silver's Routefont 3+ *95
280Silver's Route SSf6C+ **5
281Gardner's Girdlefont 4 ***47
 TRIPLETS  
283Short Sightfont 3+ 8
284Honestyf7A  
285Reducer Aretef6A 3
286Reducerf7B 1
287Long Reachfont 5+ 6
288Short Noticefont 4+ 6
289Sea Traversefont 5+ 10
 BLACK WALL  
291Black Wall Crackfont 5+ 9
292Black Wall Circuitf6A *3
 EVERDRY WALL  
294Shattered Traverse Highf6C 41
295Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **10
 CIRCUITS  
297JLS training circuitf6A 6a 51
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Access notes
From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders. Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08

Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03