Climbs 371
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotlands first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Crags 
2Beta
-
E1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b *5
5Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
6Snowhite
-
E2 5b **7
7Route Three
-
HVS 5a *10
8Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a **64
9Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 28
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b **28
12WoopsE4 6a **3
13Omerta7c **16
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***16
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out
-
5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 18
18Direquiem
-
5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20Requiem
-
E8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a *3
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***172
26First Movement6b+ **49
27Abstract Movement6b+ *4
28Abstract Art6c **121
29Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***32
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **4
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier
-
8a **9
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **5
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Negative Creep8b 1
41Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ **74
42Gratuitous Violence8a **1
43Eh GringoE4 5c * 
44DesperadoHVS 5a *16
45BlackoutE6 6a **1
46Windjammer
-
HVS 5a **108
47Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
48Bad Attitude
-
7b **35
49Half Breed
-
7b **56
50Unforgiven
-
7b ***90
51Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
52Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 15
53Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c *26
54Natural Born Drillers7a 71
55Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
56Easter Rib
-
S ***15
57Casanostra6c+ *7
58Plunge
-
D ***32
 Eagle Boulder 
601920 TraverseVB 19
61Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 72
62Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ *86
63Pas Mal
-
f3 *69
64No.1 Route
-
f3+ *98
65Left Direct
-
f3 **86
66Centre Direct
-
f4 *92
67Right Directf3 46
68No. 2 Route
-
VB *53
69No. 2 Route SSf6B 11
70Pullover
-
f5 *138
71No.2 Route Directf4+ 47
72Runs on Potato Powerf7A *10
73Triple Bogeyf6C 4
74Double Bogeyf6B *13
75Kev's Problemf7A *17
76John's Dynof6B+ **11
77Ramp Traversef6C *11
78The Beastief6A *6
79Bust My Chops LHf7A ***22
80Bust My Chopsf7A **28
81Bust My Chops RHf7A *32
82Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **8
83Treasuref7B *9
84Treasure Huntf7B *8
85Fool's Goldf7A+ *11
86Old Faithfulf5 *8
87Zig Zagf4 ***134
88Zig Zag SSf6C *53
89Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **13
90Zig Zag Variationf6A 14
91Pullover Traversef5+ 15
92Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **16
93Double Slopersf6A 23
94Treasure Trailf7B **3
95The Bampot Chopf6C+ *5
96Total Bampotf7A **3
97Bampot Aretef6B+ *35
98Bampot Traversef7A **23
99Fouk Yeef7B *1
100Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 3
101Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 5
102Tam's Routef5+ 19
103Tam's Route Original SSf7A 1
104Shadow
-
f7A+ **1
105The Story of the Hurricanef7A **1
106Trick of the Valef7B ** 
107High Flyer
-
f6C 6
108Pressure
-
f8B  
109Firefight
-
f8B  
110Smokescreenf7C *3
111Firestarter
-
f8A ***3
112Gorilla
-
f6B ***118
113Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ **18
114Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 28
115Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ ***19
116Silver Back
-
f7C ***15
117Silverback Aretef7C+ ***3
118King Kongf8A 8
119Cautious Lipf6B *26
120Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
121Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ *12
122Hoopf7C ***5
123Laddermanf7C **1
124Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ **1
125Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ **4
126Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
127Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
128Supinator
-
f6A+ *22
129Supinator XLf6B+ 1
130The Legacyf6B+ 1
1312HB
-
f6A ***66
1322HB SSf6B 5
133A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
134Ford Caprif7A+  
135Torino Sunf6B **26
136Oceans
-
f7C 5
137Sea Bedf8A ***2
1381990 Traversef7B *27
139Snappyf6B+ **12
140Yappyf6B+ **9
141The Blue Meanief5 ***146
142PTO
-
f5 *132
 Warm-up Wall 
144Left Edge
-
f3 *218
145Tuesday Wallf3+ 28
146Fridays Fillf3 *296
147Friar's Mantlef4+ ***346
148Thursday Wallf5 36
149Ungavaf4+ 259
150Right Edgef3+ 193
151Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 149
 Home Rule 
153Orange Wallf6A 6
154The Beastf3 46
155Beasted
-
f6B  
156The Brute
-
f4 12
157The Brute SSf5+ 4
158Valkyrie
-
f4+ 5
159Encore Une Foisf7A *6
160Pas Encoref5 *12
161Crimp!f6B+ 7
162More Chicken
-
f7A+ *1
163Head Buttf7A 13
164More Malkstizof7A **1
165Chicken Buttf7A+ **1
166Butt Headf7A+ 2
167Malky Traversef7B+ **13
168Daggerf7B+ **5
169Malky's Chickenf7B+ 4
170Malkiedf7C ***10
171Malkyf7B+ *39
172Dwellerf7B+  
173Set in Motionf7C+  
174Hokkuf8A * 
175Soshof8A+ ** 
176Spamf7C *13
177Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
178Spam Daggerf8A *7
179Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **8
180Mugsy Traversef7B ***49
181Mugsy Sit Startf7B **15
182Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***25
183Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A ***78
184Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
185Mestugsof7B **9
186Malky's Sleazy Chickenf8A ***2
187Thoroughbredf7C+ 8
188Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***13
189Mugstizof7B+ ***9
190Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **7
191Mestizo Traverse
-
f7B **47
192Mestizo SS
-
f7A+ **60
193Mestizof6A ***118
194Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
195Art Attackf7B 3
196Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
197Physical Graffitif6B **60
198Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **4
199Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
200Home Rule
-
f6A **150
201Devolutionf6C **15
202Devo Maxf6C *7
203Spray Onf7B * 
204Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *25
205Home Rule High Traversef6B **39
206Bob's Problem
-
f6A 9
207Presencef5+ *24
208Royale Beautyf6B *1
209Route RoyaleE3 5c 14
210Chicken Royalef6C 1
211Royal Aretef6B  
212The WhipE2 5b **26
213The Whip SSf6C *24
214The Whip SS Directf6A+ *4
215The Switchf5 4
216Einherjarf6B+ *2
217Skin Deepf6B+ *3
218Valhallaf4 9
219The Beauty
-
f4 8
 Suckers Boulder 
221P.S.
-
f3 16
222Cave Routef6A 3
223Cave Route RHf6A+ 10
224Unnamedf7A 7
225Toto
-
f6A ***209
226Toto SSf7A 80
227Toto Right Handf6C **16
228Totalledf7B **4
229Totalityf7B+ 12
230Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *19
231Toto Traversef7A+ 5
232The Shield
-
f7B+ ***26
233The Shield SS
-
f7C **4
234The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ *8
235The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
236Redpath's Problemf7B  
237Power Pockets
-
f6C *20
238Power Pockets SS
-
f7C * 
239Off The Railsf7A+ **1
240Railing
-
f6B+ **133
241Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
242Snooker Shelf
-
f4 39
243Kneebar
-
f6A+ *13
244Mosca
-
f3+ 13
245Antimatterf4 2
246Suckers Slab
-
f4+ 13
247Volpone
-
f3 *40
248Smear Testf3 4
 B.N.I Boulder 
250Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 3
251Chahalaf5+ **81
252Chahala SS
-
f8A+  
253Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
254Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
255The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
256The Grand Tourf8B  
257Sanctionf8B ***1
258Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
259B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***13
260Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **7
261La Saboteurf8A+ ***4
262Sabotagedf8A ***2
263Sabotagef8A ***18
264The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 5
265Very Ape
-
f6C 1
266Good Nicks
-
f6B **49
267Good Nicks SS
-
f6C **16
268You're Nicked
-
f7B 2
269HPf6B+ 3
270Pendulum
-
f4 ***27
271RevelationE4 6a  
272NadjilationE6 6b ** 
273Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
274Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 19
275Astronomy
-
VB 26
276Deo Gratis
-
f4+ *19
277Imposter Aretef3+ ***60
278B.N.I. Directf5+ 5
279B.N.I.
-
f5 ***13
 Pongo Boulder 
281Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 8
282Skint Knuckles
-
f4 *64
283Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 4
284Slap Happy SSf7A 6
285Slap Happy
-
f7A **145
286Hap Slappy
-
f7B+ 28
287Slap Happy Dynof7C ***3
288Happy Slapf7C+ *3
289Paedo Bikinif7C *1
290In Bloom
-
f7C+ ***14
291In Bloom Aretef8A **1
292Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
293Mr Ticklef8A **1
294Pongo
-
f6C+ ***60
295Pongo True SS
-
f8A ***17
296Pongo Jumpf7B 4
297Pongo Staticf7B+ 5
298Pongo Knucklef7C 4
299Supersize Mef8B  
300Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *4
301Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *4
302Pongo Aretef7A+ **45
303The Dumbartonerf7A ** 
304Andy's Aretef7A **28
305Buzz Sawf7A+ 8
306Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 58
307Magic Wand
-
f3+ 33
308Slant
-
f3 37
309Shothole SSf6A+ 7
310The Groovef4+ 6
311Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 3
312Nemesisf5 *95
313Nemesis SSf6B **21
314Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 5
315Narcosisf5 *45
316Narcosis SSf6A *20
317Lunikf4+ *52
318Lunik SSf6A+ 10
319Rosie and Jimf5+ *15
320Cheddar Direct
-
f4+ ***164
321Cheddar Direct SSf6A 14
322Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *8
323Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ ***215
324Hard Cheddar SSf6A 58
325Big Cheese
-
f7C+ **3
326Le Rustiquef7A **6
327Cheese-boredf7A *5
328The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **15
329Juggie
-
f4 ***72
330The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 11
331Jugs are for Mugsf6B *1
332Phoenixf7A 5
333Consolidatedf7B+ ***39
334Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
335Babybelf6C+ *6
 Sea Boulder 
337The Crackf3 12
338Short Wallf4+ 10
339White Streakf6B **85
340Steptoef3+ *148
341Red Streak
-
f6A 93
342Chowbok
-
f3+ **169
343Erewhonf4+ 170
344Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 23
345Commercial Route
-
f4 **149
346Wednesday Wall
-
f4 86
347Silver's Route
-
f3+ *138
348Silver's Route SSf6C+ **8
349Silver Ribf3+ 8
350Silver Aretef6B 4
351Gardner's Girdlef4 ***70
 Triplets 
353Short Sight
-
f3+ 18
354Honestyf7A 10
355Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 9
356Reducer Arete
-
f6A 17
357Reducer
-
f7B 4
358Long Reach
-
f5+ 12
359Short Notice
-
f4+ 13
360Ivy Ribf5+ 4
361Ivy Traversef5 4
362Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 30
 Black Wall 
364The Niche Leftf5+ 6
365The Niche
-
f6A 5
366Black Wall Crackf5+ 22
367Black Wall Circuitf6A *15
368Easy Crackf3+ 7
369Mick Tf4+ 7
370Mick T SSf6A 6
 everdry wall 
372Longbow
-
E1 5b **93
373Longbow SS
-
f5+ 6
374The Slopersf7A 2
375Old Man's Cornerf6A 5
376The Matchf6B 2
377This Place is Shitf6A 11
378Liddell, Ha and Crombief6A+ 1
379Shattered Traverse Highf6C 78
380Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **19
 Circuits 
382JLS training circuitf6A 64
383Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1

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