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These details were last updated on 20/Oct/2010

Millstone Edge

South Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 204 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Large (up to 40m)quarried bays sporting superb arêtes, walls and once-pegged cracks. Climbing is mainly VS and above. Rock is generally excellent but can be green after Winter or heavy rain. Masters Edge is one of the best and hardest routes at E7 6b, but Covent Garden at VS 4c is just as good. Classic routes include Great North Road (HVS 5a), Portland Street (HVS 5b), Bond Street (HVS 5a), Regent Street (E2 5c),Time for Tea (E35c), London Wall (E5 6a), the list is endless, a host of superb E5s. Take lots of wires. An ideal place to brush up your jamming skills.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), Eastern Grit (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NORTH BAY  
2BrindleVS 4c 5
3ScrimselVS 4c 3
4BrimstoneE2 5b **181
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *23
6Gates of MordorE3 5c ***76
7HacklespurHVS 5b *25
8Cauldron CrackE3 5c 6
9Freight TrainE4 6a 1
10EstremoHVS 5a **74
11GimbalsHVS 5b *57
12Mother's PrideE6 6c ***8
13PerplexityE6 6b ***5
14ApoplexyE7 6b 1
15PlexityHVS 5a ***307
16Remembrance DayVS 4c *77
17Day DreamVS 4b *26
18Rainy DayVS 4b *15
19CommixE2 5c 24
20Top LoaderE7 6c ***1
21Bohemian Grovef8A * 
22Saville StreetE3 6a ***62
23Shape ShifterE6 6b * 
24Soho SallyHVS 5b *11
 CIOCH AREA  
26Fluted CornerHS 4a 4
27February FoxE2 5b *14
28March HareE2 5b *52
29April AreteHVS 4c *136
30Dextrous HareE3 5c *79
31DexterityE1 5b **416
32Cioch CornerS 4a *123
33MaydayHVS 5a *211
34Supra DirectE1 5b *217
35The HackerVS 4c 82
36Close ShaveS 4a *236
37BoomerangS 4a *202
38BrumalVS 4c 22
39Cioch DiagonalHVD 16
40Cornerstone ClimbS 16
41Only JustE2 5b *61
42EarthaHS 4a **475
43Bowling GreenVD *19
44F.A.T.D.S 3c 19
45Rough PuffVD 7
46Flaky PastryVD 14
47Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 7
48Evening PremiereVS 4c *12
 GREAT SLAB  
50SveltHVS 5a *293
51The Psycho PathE6 6b  
52VelvetE2 5c 2
53The Sniveling ShitsE5 6a **103
54The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 97
55Greasy ChipsVS 4b *10
56Election SpecialE4 6b *6
57Great Slab (Millstone)HS 4b **780
58Sex DwarvesE3 6b 37
59LoricaVS 4c *107
60Cake WalkHS 18
61Bun RunHVS 5a 15
62WindreteE2 5b *40
 TWIKKER AREA  
64Breeze MuggerE5 6b  
65Meeze BruggerE5 6b *4
66ErosE1 5b *202
67Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **173
68Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***390
69ErbE2 5c **244
70TwikkerE3 5c ***101
71LubricHVS 5b *15
72Pinstone StreetE2 5c *43
73Diamond GrooveHVS 5b *11
74Black CrackS 2
75FlapjackVS 4b *104
76NeatfeetVS 5a *30
77SSSVS 4b *46
78Winter's GripE6 6b *3
79KeelhaulVS 4c *33
80Crusty CornerS *1
81QuiddityHVS 5a *37
82BillingsgateE1 5b **282
 THE CORNERS AND ARETES  
84Stone DriE2 6a *40
85Nib NobHVS 5b 2
86InstabilityS 1
87CrewcutVS 4c **130
88YourolympusVS 4c *6
89XanaduE1 5b **15
90Under Doctor's OrdersE2 5c *22
91Jealous PensionerE4 5c *33
92Xanadu DirectE3 5c **11
93Adios AmigoE5 6b **1
94The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c  
95Great West RoadE2 5b ***139
96Edge LaneE5 5c ***77
97Green Death Left Hand StartV3 6a 3
98Green DeathE5 5c ***25
99Green Death Startf6C ***25
100Green Death Super Direct Startf7B ***6
101Master's EdgeE7 6c ***18
102The Bad and the BeautifulE7 6b ***7
103Great AreteE5 5c ***4
104KnightsbridgeE2 5c **227
105Scoop CrackVS 4b *137
 Climb nameGradex
106The ScoopD *210
107DiscoveryHVS 5b *1
108DetourE2 5c 20
109The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b *10
110Clock PeopleE6 6c * 
111Watling StreetE3 5b *11
112BypassVS 4b *62
113Great North RoadHVS 5a ***939
114Quality StreetE5 6b *3
115Deaf DogV1 11
116Master Cheff7B **7
117Master Chef Sit Startf7C **1
118Technical Baiterfont 5+ **56
119Technical Master Left-handf6C ***46
120Technical Masterf6B ***256
121Technical master, One handedV8 3
 EMBANKMENT WALL  
123Blind BatE4 5c *21
124Embankment 1E2 5c **387
125Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *186
126Elm Street/10,000 ManiacsE8 6c **1
127Embankment 2VS 4c **1131
128Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only)E1 5c 35
129CompromiseE1 5b *14
130Scritto's RepublicE7 6b **4
131Embankment 3E1 5b ***775
132Time For TeaE3 5c ***357
133Tea for TwoE4 6a **33
134Time For Tea OriginalE1 5b **104
135Embankment 4E1 5b **494
136WhitehallHVS 5b *70
137The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c 1
138LottoE1 5c *44
139Lotto DirectE3 5c **4
140Little lotto areteV2 5c **105
141Seventies style wallV4 6a *32
142Handy Pocketfont 5 **15
143Handy Pocket Rightf6B+ *5
144Green Slabf6A+ *5
145Covent GardenVS 4b **733
146ScruplesE5 6b 1
147Bond StreetHVS 5a ***1051
148MonopolyE7 6b **5
149Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***875
150White WallE5 6b **52
151The MallVS 4c ***957
152London WallE5 6a ***64
153Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *262
 KEYHOLE CAVE AREA  
155Old Kent RoadD 16
156AlopeciaHVS 5a 8
157Petticoat LaneHVS 4c 28
158Bow StreetHVS 5b 31
159Metal RashE1 5b 3
160Brixton RoadVD **264
161EkelS 9
162SkywalkVS 4b *127
163Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b ***3
164The EconomistE6 6b *1
165The RackE5 6a *7
166Oxford StreetE3 6b **44
167Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **190
168Coventry StreetE4 6b ***88
169Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***39
170Regent StreetE2 5c ***537
171Regent Street VariantE3 6a 11
172Wall Street CrashE5 6b **6
173Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5a *133
174The WhoreHVS 5b *98
175GimcrackVS 4c **342
176Happy WandererVS 4c 15
177At a CliffHVS 5a 10
178OrielVS 5a *69
179Trio CrackS 10
180Pot Leg WallHVS 5c 24
 HELL'S BELL AREA  
182Bent crackHS 4b 10
183Butter-essHVS 5b 8
184CrosswaysHVD 10
185Flank CrackVD 29
186Chiming CrackHS 4b *449
187Hells BellsHS 4a *350
188JuniperE1 5b 5
189MidriftVD *289
190Giant's StepsVD 248
191WonderlustE4 6a  
192Street LegalE2 5c 72
193Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b 13
194WilfredS 16
195SqueakVS 5b 11
196Helping handsE1 5b 5
197PipS 6
198Big AlV0 5a 3
199Crane Fly Climb HS 4a 6
200Frond Crack S 5
201Charing Cross Road *A1 * 
202London Pride *E5 6b 1
203Badly Bred *E1 5c 1
204Key Climb *HS 4a 2
205Drifter *E7 6c ** 
206Eskimo Blue Day *M 4
207Brigadoon *f7B ** 
208African *E3 6a ** 
209Sky Walk *HS 4b *1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Approach from Surprise View car park on A625 Sheffield to Hathersage road (SK 251801).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ropeboy ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus ? - 29/Sep/12

Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky ? - 28/Mar/11

Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy ? - 27/May/10

The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests ? - 27/May/10

Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy ? - 26/Sep/08

"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane ? - 26/Sep/08

Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04