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These details were last updated on 20/Oct/2010

Millstone Edge

South Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 208 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Large (up to 40m)quarried bays sporting superb arêtes, walls and once-pegged cracks. Climbing is mainly VS and above. Rock is generally excellent but can be green after Winter or heavy rain. Masters Edge is one of the best and hardest routes at E7 6b, but Covent Garden at VS 4c is just as good. Classic routes include Great North Road (HVS 5a), Portland Street (HVS 5b), Bond Street (HVS 5a), Regent Street (E2 5c),Time for Tea (E35c), London Wall (E5 6a), the list is endless, a host of superb E5s. Take lots of wires. An ideal place to brush up your jamming skills.

Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Approach from Surprise View car park on A625 Sheffield to Hathersage road (SK 251801).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
20 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
19 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
22 °C
11 kph

4.8mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
16 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NORTH BAY  
2BrindleVS 4c 5
3ScrimselVS 4c 4
4BrimstoneE2 5b **226
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *23
6Gates of MordorE3 5c ***105
7HacklespurHVS 5b *30
8Cauldron CrackE3 5c 11
9Freight TrainE4 6a 2
10EstremoHVS 5a **96
11GimbalsHVS 5b *73
12Mother's PrideE6 6c ***9
13PerplexityE6 6b ***5
14ApoplexyE7 6b 1
15PlexityHVS 5a ***379
16Remembrance DayVS 4c *108
17Day DreamVS 4b *34
18Rainy DayVS 4b *16
19CommixE2 5c 31
20Top LoaderE7 6c ***1
21Bohemian Grovef8A * 
22Saville StreetE3 6a ***71
23Shape ShifterE6 6b *1
24Soho SallyHVS 5b *15
 CIOCH AREA  
26Fluted CornerHS 4a 6
27February FoxE2 5b *19
28March HareE2 5b *61
29April AreteHVS 4c *149
30Dextrous HareE3 5c *101
31DexterityE1 5b **536
32Cioch CornerS 4a *154
33MaydayHVS 5a *245
34Supra DirectE1 5b *266
35The HackerVS 4c 94
36Close ShaveS 4a *292
37BoomerangS 4a *254
38BrumalVS 4c 33
39Eskimo Blue DayVS 4c 4
40Cioch DiagonalHVD 17
41Cornerstone ClimbS 18
42Only JustE2 5b *75
43EarthaHS 4a **588
44Bowling GreenVD *22
45F.A.T.D.S 3c 29
46Rough PuffVD 9
47Flaky PastryVD 15
48Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 8
49Evening PremiereVS 4c *15
 GREAT SLAB  
51SveltHVS 5a *359
52The Psycho PathE6 6b  
53VelvetE2 5c 3
54The Sniveling ShitsE5 6a **113
55The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 116
56Greasy ChipsVS 4b *17
57Election SpecialE4 6b *6
58Great Slab (Millstone)HS 4b **947
59Sex DwarvesE3 6b 44
60LoricaVS 4c *126
61Cake WalkHS 19
62Bun RunHVS 5a 17
63WindreteE2 5b *51
 TWIKKER AREA  
65Breeze MuggerE5 6b 1
66Meeze BruggerE5 6b *5
67ErosE1 5b *264
68Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **205
69Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***472
70ErbE2 5c **309
71TwikkerE3 5c ***129
72LubricHVS 5b *14
73Pinstone StreetE2 5c *50
74Diamond GrooveHVS 5b *10
75Black CrackS 3
76FlapjackVS 4b *125
77NeatfeetVS 5a *32
78SSSVS 4b *59
79Winter's GripE6 6b *3
80KeelhaulVS 4c *35
81Crusty CornerS *4
82QuiddityHVS 5a *43
83BillingsgateE1 5b **335
 THE CORNERS AND ARETES  
85Stone DriE2 6a *45
86Nib NobHVS 5b 3
87InstabilityS 1
88CrewcutVS 4c **152
89YourolympusVS 4c *8
90XanaduE1 5b **16
91Under Doctor's OrdersE2 5c *24
92Jealous PensionerE4 5c *39
93Xanadu DirectE3 5c **14
94Adios AmigoE5 6b **1
95The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c 2
96Great West RoadE2 5b ***163
97Edge LaneE5 5c ***92
98Green Death Left Hand StartV3 6a 5
99Green DeathE5 5c ***33
100Green Death Startf6C ***30
101Green Death Superdirectf7B ***6
102Master's EdgeE7 6c ***19
103The Bad and the BeautifulE7 6b ***9
104Great AreteE5 5c ***6
105KnightsbridgeE2 5c **283
106Scoop CrackVS 4b *159
107The ScoopD *244
108DiscoveryHVS 5b *1
109DetourE2 5c 27
 Climb nameGradex
110The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b *10
111Clock PeopleE6 6c * 
112Watling StreetE3 5b *12
113BypassVS 4b *69
114Great North RoadHVS 5a ***1140
115Quality StreetE5 6b *3
116Deaf DogV1 13
117Master Cheff7B **7
118Master Chef Sit Startf7C **1
119Technical Baiterf5+ **62
120Technical Master Left-handf6C ***62
121Technical Masterf6B ***299
122Technical master, One handedV8 4
 EMBANKMENT WALL  
124Blind BatE4 5c *23
125Embankment 1E2 5c **428
126Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *257
127Elm Street/10,000 ManiacsE8 6c **1
128Embankment 2VS 4c **1370
129Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only)E1 5c 86
130CompromiseE1 5b *18
131Scritto's RepublicE7 6b **6
132Embankment 3E1 5b ***1000
133Time For TeaE3 5c ***430
134Tea for TwoE4 6a **42
135Time For Tea OriginalE1 5b **127
136Embankment 4E1 5b **626
137WhitehallHVS 5b *113
138The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c 1
139LottoE1 5c *48
140Lotto DirectE3 5c **4
141Little lotto areteV2 5c **120
142Seventies style wallV4 6a *34
143Handy Pocketf5 **17
144Handy Pocket Rightf6B+ *8
145Green Slabf6A+ *6
146Covent GardenVS 4b **887
147ScruplesE5 6b 1
148Bond StreetHVS 5a ***1286
149MonopolyE7 6b **7
150Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***1063
151White WallE5 6b **63
152The MallVS 4c ***1185
153London WallE5 6a ***82
154Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *344
 KEYHOLE CAVE AREA  
156Old Kent RoadD 18
157AlopeciaHVS 5a 9
158Petticoat LaneHVS 4c 35
159Bow StreetHVS 5b 40
160Metal RashE1 5b 4
161Brixton RoadVD **293
162EkelS 11
163SkywalkVS 4b *142
164Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b ***3
165The EconomistE6 6b *1
166The RackE5 6a *9
167Oxford StreetE3 6b **55
168Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **231
169Coventry StreetE4 6b ***104
170Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***42
171Regent StreetE2 5c ***642
172Regent Street VariantE3 6a 12
173Wall Street CrashE5 6b **8
174Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5a *152
175The WhoreHVS 5b *110
176GimcrackVS 4c **404
177Happy WandererVS 4c 18
178At a CliffHVS 5a 15
179OrielVS 5a *74
180Trio CrackS 10
181Pot Leg WallHVS 5c 25
 HELL'S BELL AREA  
183Bent crackHS 4b 11
184Butter-essHVS 5b 15
185CrosswaysHVD 11
186Flank CrackVD 32
187Chiming CrackHS 4b *540
188Hells BellsHS 4a *427
189JuniperE1 5b 16
190MidriftVD *325
191Giant's StepsVD 280
192WonderlustE4 6a  
193Street LegalE2 5c 88
194Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b 18
195WilfredS 17
196SqueakVS 5b 12
197Helping handsE1 5b 7
198PipS 8
199Big AlV0 5a 4
 LOCATION UNCERTAIN  
201Crane Fly Climb HS 4a 6
202Frond Crack S 6
203Charing Cross Road *A1 *1
204London Pride *E5 6b 1
205Badly Bred *E1 5c 1
206Key Climb *HS 4a 2
207Drifter *E7 6c **1
208Brigadoon *f7B ** 
209African *E3 6a ** 
210Sky Walk *HS 4b *3
211Grist to the mill *E4 6a *2
212Obscurity *E6 6b *1
213Whitechapel Road *HVS 5a, 4b *2
214King Ellmore *E6 6a *3
215Learn to Forget *E6 6b 2
216The Pittsburgh Enigma *E4 5c 1
217Pure Now *E9 6c  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ropeboy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14

Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12

Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11

Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10

The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10

Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08

"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08

Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04