Millstone Edge

Climbs 263 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BAY  
2BrindleVS 4c 6
3ScrimselVS 4c 6
4BrimstoneE2 5b **245
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *25
6Anything is Possible in CartoonsE4 6b  
7Gates of MordorE3 5c **110
8Pin PrickE2 5c  
9HacklespurHVS 5b *31
10Cauldron CrackE3 5c *12
11Freight TrainE4 6a *2
12EstremoHVS 5a *102
13GimbalsHVS 5b **81
14London PrideE5 6b **2
15Mother's PrideE6 6c ***14
16PerplexityE6 6b ***6
17ApoplexyE7 6b 2
18PlexityHVS 5a ***404
19Remembrance DayVS 4c *118
20Day DreamVS 4c 37
21Rainy DayVS 4b 18
22Southern ComfortE3 5c * 
23OwzaboutthatthenE4 6b  
24CommixE2 5c *31
25Top LoaderE7 6c **1
26Bohemian Grovef8A * 
27DrifterE7 6c *1
28Saville StreetE3 6a ***78
29Shape ShifterE6 6b *1
30Soho SallyE1 5b *17
31ObscurityE6 6b *1
32Learn to Forget *E6 6b 2
 LITTLE LOWER WALL  
34Brigadoonf7B ** 
35Salinela SunsetE4 6a  
36Fat and JealousE5 6c  
 CIOCH AREA  
38Slack AliceE1 5c  
39BamboozleVS 4c 1
40Dolorous GardE2 5b 1
41Fluted CornerHS 4b 6
42February FoxE2 5b *20
43March HareE2 5b *61
44April ArêteHVS 4c **151
45Dextrous HareE3 5c *105
46DexterityHVS 5b **567
47Cioch CornerS 4a 164
48MaydayHVS 5a *257
49Supra DirectHVS 5b *289
50The HackerVS 4c *96
51Close ShaveS 4a 306
52BoomerangS 4a *261
53Cioch DiagonalHVD 17
54Brumal DirectHVS 5b 2
55BrumalVS 4c 34
56Straight JacketE5 6b  
57Eskimo Blue DayVS 4c 5
58Cornerstone ClimbHS 4a 18
59ShamrotS  
60Only JustE2 5b *79
61EarthaHS 4a **622
62Slime CrimeE4 6a  
63Bowling GreenVD *23
64F.A.T.D.HS 4a 30
65Rough PuffHS 9
66Flaky PastryHS 15
67Sudden ImpactE1 5b  
68Dune FlakeVS 4a 1
69Dune CrackVS 4a 1
70The Pittsburgh EnigmaE4 5c 1
71Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 9
72Evening PremiereHVS 5a 16
73Evening Premiere Direct FinishE1 5b 1
74Creaking CornerHS 4b 1
75Crumbling CornerHS 4a 1
 GREAT SLAB AREA  
77Crumbling CracksHS 4a 1
78SveltHVS 5a *371
79Gibbering Heap of PussE3 5c  
80The Psycho PathE6 6b * 
81VelvetE2 5c 3
82The Snivelling ShitE5 6a **116
83Election SpecialE4 6b *6
84The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 142
85The Great SlabHS 4b **988
86DinoE4 6b  
87Sex DwarvesE3 6b *49
88LoricaVS 4c *129
89Cake WalkHS 19
90Bun RunHVS 5a 17
91WindrêteE2 5b *51
 TWIKKER AREA  
93Breeze MuggerE5 6b 1
94Meeze BruggerE5 6b *5
95ErosE1 5b *295
96Frank Sinatra Bows OutE5 6b  
97AcheronVS 4c  
98Mean to MeHVS 5b  
99Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **222
100AfricanE3 6a ** 
101Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***501
102ErbE2 5c **321
103TwikkerE3 5c ***134
104LubricHVS 5b *14
105The Bed of ProcustesV12 7a  
106Pinstone StreetE2 5c *51
107Grist to the MillE4 6a *2
108Diamond GrooveHVS 5b *12
109Shady WallVS 4c  
110Helliconia SpringHVS 5a  
111Black CrackS 3
112OptimusE1 5a  
113FlapjackVS 4b *131
114NeatfeetHVS 5a *33
115S.S.S.VS 4c *66
116Winter's GripE6 6b *4
117KeelhaulVS 4c *38
118Crusty CornerS 4a 4
119QuiddityHVS 5a *45
120FindusHVS 5b 1
121BillingsgateE1 5b **348
122Sea CreatureE4 6a  
123PiledriverE3 5c  
 CORNERS AREA  
125Nib NobHVS 5b 3
126Stone DriE2 6a *48
127CrewcutVS 4c **163
128YourolympusVS 4c 10
129MyolympusHVS 5b  
130Under Doctor's OrdersE2 6a *24
131Jealous PensionerE4 5c *39
132King EllmoreE6 6a *3
133XanaduE1 5b **16
134Xanadu DirectE3 5c **14
135The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c 2
136Adios AmigoE5 6b **1
137Cherry Bank RoadV10 7a  
138Great West RoadE3 5b ***172
139Edge LaneE5 5c ***91
140Green DeathE5 5c ***33
141Green Death Left-Hand StartV3 6a 5
142Green Death StartV4 6b ***31
143Green Death SuperdirectV8+ 7a **6
144Master's EdgeE7 6c ***19
145Pure NowE9 6c  
146The Bad and the BeautifulE6 6b **9
147Great ArêteE5 5c ***6
148Stranger in ParadiseE5 6a  
149KnightsbridgeE2 5c **294
150Scoop CrackVS 4b 171
151The ScoopD *255
152DiscoveryHVS 5b *4
153DetourE2 5c *31
154The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b 10
155Clock PeopleE6 6c * 
156Watling StreetE3 5b *15
157By-PassHVS 5a *78
158Great North RoadHVS 5a ***1206
159Quality StreetE5 6b *3
160Deaf DogV1 5b 13
161Master ChefV8+ 6c **7
162Master Chef Sit-StartV9 6c **1
163Technical BaiterV1 5b *63
164Technical Master Left-handV5 6b ***63
165Technical MasterV4 6b ***318
166Technical Master One HandedV8 6c 5
 EMBANKMENT WALL AREA  
168Blind BatE4 5c *26
169Embankment 1E2 5c **445
170Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *292
171Who Wants the WorldE5 6a  
17210,000 Maniacs/Elm StreetE8 6c **1
173Embankment 2VS 4c **1443
174Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only)E1 5c 112
175Scritto's RepublicE7 6c **6
176Embankment 3E1 5b ***1061
177Tip TopV9 6c  
178Time for TeaE3 5c ***456
179Tea for TwoE4 6a **42
180Time for Tea OriginalE1 5b ***135
181Embankment 4E1 5b **669
182WhitehallHVS 5b *123
183The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c 1
184LottoE1 5c *48
185Lotto DirectE3 5c 4
186Little Lotto ArêteV2 5c 131
187Seventies Style WallV3 6a 35
188Handy PocketV1 5b **17
189Handy Pocket RightV4 6a *8
190Green SlabV3 6a *6
191Covent GardenVS 4b **937
192ScruplesE5 6b 2
193Bond StreetHVS 5a ***1370
194MonopolyE7 6b **8
195Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***1121
196The Impetus for Stranger FacesE5 5c  
197White WallE5 6b **62
198The MallVS 4c ***1245
199London WallE5 6a ***84
200Urban SprawlE6 6b  
201Badly BredE1 5c 3
202Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *360
 KEYHOLE CAVE AREA  
204Old Kent RoadD 19
205Whitechapel Road *HVS 5a, 4b *2
206AlopeciaHVS 5a 9
207Brittle Road to FreedomE1 5b  
208Petticoat LaneHVS 4c 39
209Bow StreetHVS 4c 46
210Metal RashE1 5b 5
211Brixton RoadVD *305
212EkelS 11
213SkywalkHS 4b *150
214The EconomistE6 6b *1
215Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b ***3
216The RackE5 6a *9
217Oxford StreetE3 6b **57
218Littleheath RoadE3 5c  
219The Keyhole TraverseV8 6c 1
220Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **242
221Coventry StreetE4 6b **112
222Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***42
223Jermyn Street Direct FinishE5 6b  
224TransmetropolitanE3 5c  
225Regent StreetE2 5c ***682
226Regent Street Direct StartE3 5c *12
227Wall Street CrashE5 6b **9
228Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5b *158
229The WhoreHVS 5b *114
230GimcrackVS 4c *422
231At-a-CliffHVS 5a 15
232Wings of SteelE3 5c  
233Happy WandererVS 4c 19
234Wash and Brush UpE1 6b  
235Charing Cross RoadHVS 5a *1
236OrielVS 5a *79
237Keyhole CopsE2 5c  
238Trio CrackS 10
239Pot Leg WallV2 5c 27
 HELL'S BELL AREA  
241Bent CrackHS 4b 12
242Piper's CrackVD 1
243Butter-essHVS 5b *15
244CrosswaysS 4a 12
245Key's ClimbHVS 5a 3
246Straight LegVS 4b 1
247Flared BottomHVS 5a 2
248Flank CrackVD 33
249Chiming CracksHS 4a *572
250Hells BellsHS 4b *447
251JuniperE1 5b 17
252MidriftVD 339
253Giant's StepsVD 294
254WonderlustE4 6a  
255Street LegalE2 5c *93
256Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b *18
257Helping handsE1 5b 7
258Annabella SuperstellaE2 6b  
259WilfredS 17
260SqueakVS 5b 12
261Beneath the Pavement Lies the BeachE4 6a  
262PipS 8
 THE LITTLE QUARRY  
264FireworksV5 6b 1
265DamageV4 6a 1
266HalloweenV4 6b 1
267Big AlV0 5a 4
268Humpty DumptyE1 5b  
269Keyhole Traverse 1 *V5 6b ***1
270Keyhole Traverse 2 *V6 6b ***1
271Keyhole Traverse 3 *V7 6b *** 
272Two Shot Holes *V2 5c *1
273The Metal Rash Traverse *V1 5b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04