Millstone Edge

Climbs 263 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BAY  
2BrindleVS 4c 6
3ScrimselVS 4c 6
4BrimstoneE2 5b **254
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *27
6Anything is Possible in CartoonsE4 6b  
7Gates of MordorE3 5c **117
8Pin PrickE2 5c  
9HacklespurHVS 5b *34
10Cauldron CrackE3 5c *13
11Freight TrainE4 6a *2
12EstremoHVS 5a **105
13GimbalsHVS 5b **83
14London PrideE5 6b **3
15Mother's PrideE6 6c ***14
16PerplexityE6 6b ***6
17ApoplexyE7 6b **2
18PlexityHVS 5a ***414
19Remembrance DayVS 4c **120
20Day DreamVS 4c *37
21Rainy DayVS 4b 18
22Southern ComfortE3 5c * 
23OwzaboutthatthenE4 6b  
24CommixE2 5c *32
25Top LoaderE7 6c ***1
26Bohemian Grovef8A * 
27DrifterE7 6c *1
28Saville StreetE3 6a ***79
29Shape ShifterE6 6b *1
30Soho SallyE1 5b *20
31ObscurityE6 6b *1
32Learn to ForgetE6 6b 2
 LITTLE LOWER WALL  
34Brigadoonf7B ** 
35Salinela SunsetE4 6a  
36Fat and JealousE5 6c  
 CIOCH BAY  
38Slack AliceE1 5c  
39BamboozleVS 4c 1
40Dolorous GardE2 5b 2
41Fluted CornerHS 4b 6
42February FoxE1 5b *22
43March HareE2 5b **63
44April ArêteHVS 4c **156
45Dextrous HareE3 5c **115
46DexterityE1 5b **588
47Cioch CornerS 4a 167
48MaydayHVS 5a *271
49Supra DirectHVS 5b *298
50The HackerVS 4c *104
51Close ShaveS 4a *313
52BoomerangS 4a *263
53Cioch DiagonalHVD 17
54Brumal DirectHVS 5b 2
55BrumalVS 4c 38
56Straight JacketE5 6b  
57Eskimo Blue DayVS 4c 5
58Cornerstone ClimbHS 4a 19
59ShamrotS  
60Only JustE2 5b *83
61EarthaHS 4a **637
62Slime CrimeE4 6a  
63Bowling GreenVD *23
64F.A.T.D.HS 4a *32
65Rough PuffHS 9
66Flaky PastryHS 15
67Sudden ImpactE1 5b  
68Dune FlakeVS 4a 1
69Dune CrackVS 4a 1
70The Pittsburgh EnigmaE4 5c 1
71Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 9
72Evening PremiereHVS 5a *17
73Evening Premiere Direct FinishE1 5b 1
74Creaking CornerHS 4b 1
75Crumbling CornerHS 4a 1
 GREAT SLAB  
77Crumbling CracksHS 4a 1
78SveltHVS 5a *381
79Gibbering Heap of PussE3 5c  
80The Psycho PathE6 6b * 
81VelvetE2 5c 3
82The Snivelling ShitE5 6a **118
83Election SpecialE3 6a *6
84The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 150
85The Great SlabHS 4b **1022
86DinoE4 6b  
87Sex Dwarvesf6B+ *52
88LoricaVS 4c **132
89Cake WalkS 4a 19
90Bun RunHVS 5a 18
91WindrêteE2 5b **52
 TWIKKER AREA  
93Breeze MuggerE5 6b 1
94Meeze BruggerE5 6b *5
95ErosE1 5b **304
96Frank Sinatra Bows OutE5 6b  
97AcheronVS 4c  
98Mean to MeHVS 5b  
99Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **234
100AfricanE3 6a ** 
101Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***522
102ErbE2 5c ***337
103TwikkerE3 5c ***143
104LubricHVS 5b *15
105The Bed of Procustesf8A+ *** 
106Pinstone StreetE2 5c *54
107Grist to the MillE4 6a *2
108Diamond GrooveHVS 5b 12
109Shady WallVS 4c  
110Helliconia SpringHVS 5a  
111Black CrackS 3
112OptimusE1 5a  
113FlapjackVS 4b *134
114NeatfeetHVS 5a *33
115S.S.S.VS 4c *66
116Winter's GripE6 6b **4
117KeelhaulVS 4c 39
118Crusty CornerS 4a 4
119QuiddityHVS 5a *48
120FindusHVS 5b 1
121BillingsgateE1 5b **360
122Sea CreatureE4 6a  
123PiledriverE3 5c  
 GREEN DEATH  
125Nib NobHVS 5b 3
126Stone DriE2 6a *52
127CrewcutVS 4c **171
128YourolympusHVS 4c 11
129MyolympusHVS 5b 1
130Under Doctor's OrdersE2 6a *26
131Jealous PensionerE4 5c *40
132King EllmoreE6 6a *3
133XanaduE1 5b **17
134Xanadu DirectE3 5c **15
135The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c 2
136Adios AmigoE5 6b **1
137Cherry Bank RoadV10 7a  
138Great West RoadE3 5b ***181
139Edge LaneE5 5c ***95
140Green DeathE5 5c ***34
141Green Death Left-Hand StartV3 6a 5
142Green Death StartV4 6b ***32
143Green Death Superdirectf7B **6
144Master's EdgeE7 6c ***20
145Pure NowE9 6c * 
146The Bad and the BeautifulE6 6c ***10
147Great AreteE5 5c ***6
148Stranger in ParadiseE5 6a  
 GREAT NORTH ROAD  
150KnightsbridgeE2 5c ***317
151Scoop CrackVS 4b 174
152The ScoopD *262
153DiscoveryHVS 5b 5
154DetourE2 5c **34
155The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b 11
156Clock PeopleE6 6c * 
157Watling StreetE3 5b *17
158By-PassHVS 5a *78
159Great North RoadHVS 5a ***1264
160Quality StreetE5 6b *3
161Deaf DogHVS 5b 13
162Master Cheff7B **7
163Master Chef Sit-StartV9 6c **1
164Technical Baiterf5 *65
165Technical Master Left-handV5 6b ***66
166Technical Masterf6B ***332
167Technical Master One HandedV8 6c 5
 THE EMBANKMENT  
169Blind BatE4 5c **27
170Embankment 1E2 5c **450
171Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *320
172Who Wants the WorldE5 6a  
17310,000 Maniacs/Elm Streetf7C+ **2
174Embankment 2VS 4c **1504
175Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only)E1 5c 127
176Scritto's RepublicE7 6c **6
177Embankment 3E1 5b ***1124
178Tip TopV9 6c  
179Time for TeaE3 5c ***466
180Tea for TwoE4 6a ***45
181Time for Tea OriginalE1 5b ***143
182Embankment 4E1 5b ***698
183WhitehallHVS 5b **126
184The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c *1
185LottoE1 5c *50
186Lotto DirectE3 5c *4
187Little Lotto Arêtef5 *139
188Seventies Style Wallf6B+ *37
189Handy PocketV1 5b **17
190Handy Pocket RightV4 6a *8
191Green SlabV3 6a *6
 LONDON WALL  
193Covent GardenVS 4b **974
194ScruplesE5 6b 3
195Bond StreetHVS 5a ***1440
196MonopolyE7 6b **9
197Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***1179
198The Impetus for Stranger FacesE5 5c  
199White WallE5 6b ***65
200The MallVS 4c ***1298
201London WallE5 6a ***86
202Urban SprawlE6 6b  
203Badly BredE1 5c 3
204Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *367
 KEYHOLE CAVE  
206Old Kent RoadD 19
207Whitechapel Road *HVS 5a, 4b *2
208AlopeciaHVS 5a 9
209Brittle Road to FreedomE1 5b  
210Petticoat LaneHVS 4c *41
211Bow StreetHVS 4c *49
212Metal RashE1 5b 5
213Brixton RoadVD *314
214EkelS 11
215SkywalkVS 4b **155
216The EconomistE6 6b *1
217Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b **3
218The RackE5 6a **10
219Oxford StreetE3 6b *61
220Littleheath RoadE3 5c  
221Keyhole Traverse 1V5 6b 1
222Keyhole Traverse 2V6 6b 1
223Keyhole Traverse 3V7 6b  
224Keyhole Traverse 4V8 6c 1
225Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **253
226Coventry StreetE5 6b **122
227Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***44
228Jermyn Street Direct FinishE5 6b  
229TransmetropolitanE3 5c  
230Regent StreetE2 5c ***719
231Regent Street Direct StartE3 5c *12
232Wall Street CrashE5 6b **10
233Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5b *164
234The WhoreHVS 5b *117
235GimcrackVS 4c *432
236At-a-CliffHVS 5a 16
237Wings of SteelE3 5c  
238Happy WandererVS 5a 20
239Wash and Brush UpE1 6b  
240Charing Cross RoadHVS 5a *1
241OrielVS 5a *80
242Keyhole CopsE2 5c  
243Trio CrackS 10
244Two Shot Holes (Pot Leg Wall)V2 5c *29
 HELLS BELLS  
246Bent CrackHS 4c *12
247Piper's CrackVD 1
248Butter-essHVS 5b *16
249CrosswaysHVD 12
250Key's ClimbHVS 5a 3
251Straight LegVS 4b 1
252Flared BottomHVS 5a 2
253Flank CrackVD 35
254Chiming CracksHS 4a *593
255Hells BellsHS 4b *461
256JuniperE1 5b 20
257MidriftVD 344
258Giant's StepsVD 299
259WonderlustE4 6a  
260Street LegalE2 5c *100
261Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b *18
262Helping handsE1 5b 7
263Annabella SuperstellaE2 6b  
264WilfredS 17
265SqueakVS 5b 12
266Beneath the Pavement Lies the BeachE4 6a  
267PipS 8
 THE LITTLE QUARRY  
269FireworksV5 6b 1
270DamageV4 6a 1
271HalloweenV4 6b 1
272Big AlV0 5a 4
273Humpty DumptyE1 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04