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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SK 248803

Millstone Edge

South Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 204 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Large (up to 40m)quarried bays sporting superb arêtes, walls and once-pegged cracks. Climbing is mainly VS and above. Rock is generally excellent but can be green after Winter or heavy rain. Masters Edge is one of the best and hardest routes at E7 6b, but Covent Garden at VS 4c is just as good. Classic routes include Great North Road (HVS 5a), Portland Street (HVS 5b), Bond Street (HVS 5a), Regent Street (E2 5c),Time for Tea (E35c), London Wall (E5 6a), the list is endless, a host of superb E5s. Take lots of wires. An ideal place to brush up your jamming skills.

Weather forecast

Today	Thu	Fri	Sat	Sun

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), Eastern Grit (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	NORTH BAY
2	Brindle	VS 4c	5
3	Scrimsel	VS 4c	3
4	Brimstone	E2 5b **	181
5	Satan's Slit	HVS 5b *	23
6	Gates of Mordor	E3 5c ***	76
7	Hacklespur	HVS 5b *	25
8	Cauldron Crack	E3 5c	6
9	Freight Train	E4 6a	1
10	Estremo	HVS 5a **	74
11	Gimbals	HVS 5b *	57
12	Mother's Pride	E6 6c ***	8
13	Perplexity	E6 6b ***	5
14	Apoplexy	E7 6b	1
15	Plexity	HVS 5a ***	307
16	Remembrance Day	VS 4c *	77
17	Day Dream	VS 4b *	26
18	Rainy Day	VS 4b *	15
19	Commix	E2 5c	24
20	Top Loader	E7 6c ***	1
21	Bohemian Grove	f8A *
22	Saville Street	E3 6a ***	62
23	Shape Shifter	E6 6b *
24	Soho Sally	HVS 5b *	11
	CIOCH AREA
26	Fluted Corner	HS 4a	4
27	February Fox	E2 5b *	14
28	March Hare	E2 5b *	52
29	April Arete	HVS 4c *	136
30	Dextrous Hare	E3 5c *	79
31	Dexterity	E1 5b **	416
32	Cioch Corner	S 4a *	123
33	Mayday	HVS 5a *	211
34	Supra Direct	E1 5b *	217
35	The Hacker	VS 4c	82
36	Close Shave	S 4a *	236
37	Boomerang	S 4a *	202
38	Brumal	VS 4c	22
39	Cioch Diagonal	HVD	16
40	Cornerstone Climb	S	16
41	Only Just	E2 5b *	61
42	Eartha	HS 4a **	475
43	Bowling Green	VD *	19
44	F.A.T.D.	S 3c	19
45	Rough Puff	VD	7
46	Flaky Pastry	VD	14
47	Wuthering Crack	HVS 5a	7
48	Evening Premiere	VS 4c *	12
	GREAT SLAB
50	Svelt	HVS 5a *	293
51	The Psycho Path	E6 6b
52	Velvet	E2 5c	2
53	The Sniveling Shits	E5 6a **	103
54	The Moronic Chippings	VS 4a	97
55	Greasy Chips	VS 4b *	10
56	Election Special	E4 6b *	6
57	Great Slab (Millstone)	HS 4b **	780
58	Sex Dwarves	E3 6b	37
59	Lorica	VS 4c *	107
60	Cake Walk	HS	18
61	Bun Run	HVS 5a	15
62	Windrete	E2 5b *	40
	TWIKKER AREA
64	Breeze Mugger	E5 6b
65	Meeze Brugger	E5 6b *	4
66	Eros	E1 5b *	202
67	Lyons Corner House Direct	HVS 5a **	173
68	Lyons Corner House	HVS 5a ***	390
69	Erb	E2 5c **	244
70	Twikker	E3 5c ***	101
71	Lubric	HVS 5b *	15
72	Pinstone Street	E2 5c *	43
73	Diamond Groove	HVS 5b *	11
74	Black Crack	S	2
75	Flapjack	VS 4b *	104
76	Neatfeet	VS 5a *	30
77	SSS	VS 4b *	46
78	Winter's Grip	E6 6b *	3
79	Keelhaul	VS 4c *	33
80	Crusty Corner	S *	1
81	Quiddity	HVS 5a *	37
82	Billingsgate	E1 5b **	282
	THE CORNERS AND ARETES
84	Stone Dri	E2 6a *	40
85	Nib Nob	HVS 5b	2
86	Instability	S	1
87	Crewcut	VS 4c **	130
88	Yourolympus	VS 4c *	6
89	Xanadu	E1 5b **	15
90	Under Doctor's Orders	E2 5c *	22
91	Jealous Pensioner	E4 5c *	33
92	Xanadu Direct	E3 5c **	11
93	Adios Amigo	E5 6b **	1
94	The Trumpton Anarchist	E5 6c
95	Great West Road	E2 5b ***	139
96	Edge Lane	E5 5c ***	77
97	Green Death Left Hand Start	V3 6a	3
98	Green Death	E5 5c ***	25
99	Green Death Start	f6C ***	25
100	Green Death Super Direct Start	f7B ***	6
101	Master's Edge	E7 6c ***	18
102	The Bad and the Beautiful	E7 6b ***	7
103	Great Arete	E5 5c ***	4
104	Knightsbridge	E2 5c **	227
105	Scoop Crack	VS 4b *	137

	Climb name	Grade	x

106	The Scoop	D *	210
107	Discovery	HVS 5b *	1
108	Detour	E2 5c	20
109	The Hunter House Road Toad	E5 6b *	10
110	Clock People	E6 6c *
111	Watling Street	E3 5b *	11
112	Bypass	VS 4b *	62
113	Great North Road	HVS 5a ***	939
114	Quality Street	E5 6b *	3
115	Deaf Dog	V1	11
116	Master Chef	f7B **	7
117	Master Chef Sit Start	f7C **	1
118	Technical Baiter	font 5+ **	56
119	Technical Master Left-hand	f6C ***	46
120	Technical Master	f6B ***	256
121	Technical master, One handed	V8	3
	EMBANKMENT WALL
123	Blind Bat	E4 5c *	21
124	Embankment 1	E2 5c **	387
125	Embankment 1 - First Pitch	VS 4c *	186
126	Elm Street/10,000 Maniacs	E8 6c **	1
127	Embankment 2	VS 4c **	1131
128	Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only)	E1 5c	35
129	Compromise	E1 5b *	14
130	Scritto's Republic	E7 6b **	4
131	Embankment 3	E1 5b ***	775
132	Time For Tea	E3 5c ***	357
133	Tea for Two	E4 6a **	33
134	Time For Tea Original	E1 5b **	104
135	Embankment 4	E1 5b **	494
136	Whitehall	HVS 5b *	70
137	The Jasmine Corridor	E6 6c	1
138	Lotto	E1 5c *	44
139	Lotto Direct	E3 5c **	4
140	Little lotto arete	V2 5c **	105
141	Seventies style wall	V4 6a *	32
142	Handy Pocket	font 5 **	15
143	Handy Pocket Right	f6B+ *	5
144	Green Slab	f6A+ *	5
145	Covent Garden	VS 4b **	733
146	Scruples	E5 6b	1
147	Bond Street	HVS 5a ***	1051
148	Monopoly	E7 6b **	5
149	Great Portland Street	HVS 5b ***	875
150	White Wall	E5 6b **	52
151	The Mall	VS 4c ***	957
152	London Wall	E5 6a ***	64
153	Lambeth Chimney	HS 4b *	262
	KEYHOLE CAVE AREA
155	Old Kent Road	D	16
156	Alopecia	HVS 5a	8
157	Petticoat Lane	HVS 4c	28
158	Bow Street	HVS 5b	31
159	Metal Rash	E1 5b	3
160	Brixton Road	VD **	264
161	Ekel	S	9
162	Skywalk	VS 4b *	127
163	Adam Smith's Invisible Hand	E6 6b ***	3
164	The Economist	E6 6b *	1
165	The Rack	E5 6a *	7
166	Oxford Street	E3 6b **	44
167	Piccadilly Circus	E2 5c **	190
168	Coventry Street	E4 6b ***	88
169	Jermyn Street	E5 6a ***	39
170	Regent Street	E2 5c ***	537
171	Regent Street Variant	E3 6a	11
172	Wall Street Crash	E5 6b **	6
173	Shaftesbury Avenue	HVS 5a *	133
174	The Whore	HVS 5b *	98
175	Gimcrack	VS 4c **	342
176	Happy Wanderer	VS 4c	15
177	At a Cliff	HVS 5a	10
178	Oriel	VS 5a *	69
179	Trio Crack	S	10
180	Pot Leg Wall	HVS 5c	24
	HELL'S BELL AREA
182	Bent crack	HS 4b	10
183	Butter-ess	HVS 5b	8
184	Crossways	HVD	10
185	Flank Crack	VD	29
186	Chiming Crack	HS 4b *	449
187	Hells Bells	HS 4a *	350
188	Juniper	E1 5b	5
189	Midrift	VD *	289
190	Giant's Steps	VD	248
191	Wonderlust	E4 6a
192	Street Legal	E2 5c	72
193	Blood and Guts on Botty Street	E5 6b	13
194	Wilfred	S	16
195	Squeak	VS 5b	11
196	Helping hands	E1 5b	5
197	Pip	S	6
198	Big Al	V0 5a	3
199	Crane Fly Climb †	HS 4a	6
200	Frond Crack †	S	5
201	Charing Cross Road *	A1 *
202	London Pride *	E5 6b	1
203	Badly Bred *	E1 5c	1
204	Key Climb *	HS 4a	2
205	Drifter *	E7 6c **
206	Eskimo Blue Day *	M	4
207	Brigadoon *	f7B **
208	African *	E3 6a **
209	Sky Walk *	HS 4b *	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Approach from Surprise View car park on A625 Sheffield to Hathersage road (SK 251801).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ropeboy

USER FEEDBACK

Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus

- 29/Sep/12

Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11

Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10

The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10

Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08

"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08

Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04

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