Millstone Edge

Climbs 259 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BAY 
2BrindleVS 4c
3ScrimselVS 4c
4BrimstoneE2 5b **
5Satan's SlitE1 5b *
6Anything is Possible in CartoonsE4 6b
7Gates of MordorE3 5c ***
8Pin PrickE2 5c
9HacklespurHVS 5b *
10Cauldron CrackE3 5c *
11Freight TrainE4 6a *
12EstremoHVS 5a **
13GimbalsHVS 5a *
14London PrideE5 6b **
15Mother's PrideE6 6c ***
16PerplexityE6 6b ***
17ApoplexyE7 6b
18PlexityHVS 5a ***
19Remembrance DayVS 4b *
20Day DreamVS 4c *
21Rainy DayVS 4b
22Southern ComfortE3 5c *
23OwzaboutthatthenE4 6b
24CommixE2 5c **
25Top LoaderE7 6c ***
26Bohemian Grovef8A *
27DrifterE7 6c **
28Saville StreetE3 6a ***
29Shape ShifterE6 6b *
30Soho SallyE1 5b *
31ObscurityE6 6b *
32Learn to Forget *E6 6b
 LITTLE LOWER WALL 
34Brigadoonf7B **
35Salinela SunsetE4 6a
36Fat and JealousE5 6c
 CIOCH AREA 
38Slack AliceE1 5c
39BamboozleVS 4c
40Dolorous GardE2 5b
41Fluted CornerHS 4b
42February FoxE2 5b *
43March HareE3 5c **
44April ArêteHVS 4c *
45Dextrous HareE3 5c **
46DexterityE1 5b **
47Cioch CornerS 4a *
48MaydayHVS 5a *
49Supra DirectHVS 5b *
50The HackerVS 4c *
51Close ShaveHVD 4a *
52BoomerangS 4a *
53Cioch DiagonalHVD
54Brumal DirectHVS 5b
55BrumalVS 4c
56Straight JacketE5 6b
57Eskimo Blue DayVS 4c
58Cornerstone ClimbHS 4a
59ShamrotS
60Only JustE1 5a *
61EarthaHS 4b **
62Slime CrimeE4 6a
63Bowling GreenVD *
64F.A.T.D.HS 4a *
65Rough PuffHS
66Flaky PastryHS
67Sudden ImpactE1 5b
68Dune FlakeVS 4a
69Dune CrackVS 4a
70The Pittsburgh EnigmaE4 5c
71Wuthering CrackHVS 5a
72Evening PremiereVS 4c *
73Evening Premiere Direct FinishE1 5b
74Creaking CornerHS 4b
75Crumbling CornerHS 4a
 GREAT SLAB AREA 
77Crumbling CracksHS 4a
78SveltHVS 5a *
79Gibbering Heap of PussE3 5c
80The Psycho PathE6 6b *
81VelvetE2 5c
82The Snivelling ShitE5 6a **
83Election SpecialE4 6b *
84The Moronic ChippingsVS 4b
85The Great SlabHS 4b **
86DinoE4 6b
87Sex DwarvesE3 6b
88LoricaVS 4c *
89Cake WalkHS
90Bun RunHVS 5a
91WindrêteE2 5b **
 TWIKKER AREA 
93Breeze MuggerE5 6b
94Meeze BruggerE5 6b *
95ErosHVS 5a **
96Frank Sinatra Bows OutE5 6b
97AcheronVS 4c
98Mean to MeHVS 5b
99Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **
100AfricanE3 6a **
101Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***
102ErbE2 5c **
103TwikkerE3 5c ***
104LubricHVS 5b *
105The Bed of ProcustesV12 7a
106Pinstone StreetE2 5c *
107Grist to the MillE4 6a *
108Diamond GrooveHVS 5a
109Shady WallVS 4c
110Helliconia SpringHVS 5a
111Black CrackS
112OptimusE1 5a
113FlapjackVS 4b *
114NeatfeetVS 5b *
115S.S.S.VS 4c
116Winter's GripE6 6b *
117KeelhaulVS 4c
118Crusty CornerS *
119QuiddityHVS 5a *
120FindusHVS 5b
121BillingsgateE1 5b **
122Sea CreatureE4 6a
123PiledriverE3 5c
 CORNERS AREA 
125Nib NobHVS 5b
126Stone DriE2 6a *
127CrewcutHVS 4c **
128YourolympusHVS 4c *
129MyolympusHVS 5b
130Under Doctor's OrdersE2 5c *
131Jealous PensionerE4 5c *
132King EllmoreE6 6a *
133XanaduE1 5b **
134Xanadu DirectE4 6a **
135The Trumpton AnarchistE6 6b
136Adios AmigoE5 6b **
137Cherry Bank RoadV10 7a
138Great West RoadE2 5b ***
139Edge LaneE5 5c ***
140Green DeathE5 5c ***
141Green Death Left-Hand StartV3 6a
142Green Death StartV4 6b ***
143Green Death SuperdirectV8 7a ***
144Master's EdgeE7 6b ***
145Pure NowE9 6c
146The Bad and the BeautifulE7 6b ***
147Great ArêteE5 5c ***
148Stranger in ParadiseE5 6a
149KnightsbridgeE2 5c **
150Scoop CrackVS 4b *
151The ScoopD *
152DiscoveryHVS 5b *
153DetourE2 5c *
154The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b *
155Clock PeopleE6 6c *
156Watling StreetE3 5b **
157By-PassHVS 5a *
158Great North RoadHVS 5a ***
159Quality StreetE5 6b *
160Deaf DogV1 5b
161Master ChefV8 6c **
162Master Chef Sit-StartV9 6c **
163Technical BaiterV1 5b **
164Technical Master Left-handV5 6b ***
165Technical MasterV4 6b ***
166Technical Master One HandedV8 6c
 EMBANKMENT WALL AREA 
168Blind BatE4 5c **
169Embankment 1E2 5c **
170Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *
171Who Wants the WorldE5 6a
17210,000 Maniacs/Elm StreetE8 6c **
173Embankment 2VS 4c **
174Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only)E1 5c
175Scritto's RepublicE7 6c **
176Embankment 3E1 5b ***
177Tip TopV9 6c
178Time for TeaE3 5c ***
179Tea for TwoE4 6a **
180Time for Tea OriginalE1 5b **
181Embankment 4E1 5b ***
182WhitehallHVS 5a **
183The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c
184LottoE1 5c *
185Lotto DirectE3 5c **
186Little Lotto ArêteV2 5c **
187Seventies Style WallV4 6a *
188Handy PocketV1 5b **
189Handy Pocket RightV4 6a *
190Green SlabV3 6a *
191Covent GardenVS 4b **
192ScruplesE5 6b
193Bond StreetHVS 5a ***
194MonopolyE7 6b **
195Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***
196The Impetus for Stranger FacesE5 5c
197White WallE5 6b **
198The MallVS 4c ***
199London WallE5 6a ***
200Urban SprawlE6 6b
201Badly BredE1 5c
202Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *
 KEYHOLE CAVE AREA 
204Old Kent RoadD
205Whitechapel Road *HVS 5a, 4b *
206AlopeciaHVS 5a
207Brittle Road to FreedomE1 5b
208Petticoat LaneHVS 4b
209Bow StreetHVS 5b
210Metal RashE1 5b
211Brixton RoadVD **
212EkelS
213SkywalkVS 4b *
214The EconomistE6 6b *
215Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b ***
216The RackE5 6a *
217Oxford StreetE3 6b **
218Littleheath RoadE3 5c
219The Keyhole TraverseV8 6c
220Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **
221Coventry StreetE5 6b ***
222Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***
223Jermyn Street Direct FinishE5 6b
224TransmetropolitanE3 5c
225Regent StreetE2 5c ***
226Regent Street Direct StartE3 5c *
227Wall Street CrashE5 6b **
228Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5a *
229The WhoreHVS 5b *
230GimcrackVS 4c **
231At-a-CliffHVS 5a
232Wings of SteelE3 5c
233Happy WandererVS 4c
234Wash and Brush UpE1 6b
235Charing Cross RoadHVS 5a *
236OrielVS 5a *
237Keyhole CopsE2 5c
238Trio CrackS
239Pot Leg WallV2 5c
 HELL'S BELL AREA 
241Bent CrackHS 4b
242Piper's CrackVD
243Butter-essHVS 5b *
244CrosswaysS 4a
245Key's ClimbHVS 5a
246Straight LegVS 4b
247Flared BottomHVS 5a
248Flank CrackVD
249Chiming CracksHS 4b *
250Hells BellsHS 4b *
251JuniperE1 5b
252MidriftVD *
253Giant's StepsVD
254WonderlustE4 6a
255Street LegalE2 5c *
256Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b
257Helping handsE1 5b
258Annabella SuperstellaE2 6b
259WilfredS
260SqueakVS 5b
261Beneath the Pavement Lies the BeachE4 6a
262PipS
 THE LITTLE QUARRY 
264FireworksV5 6b
265DamageV4 6a
266HalloweenV4 6b
267Big AlV0 5a
268Humpty DumptyE1 5b
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 08/Oct/2014

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