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These details were last updated on 10/Aug/2010

Millstone Edge

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Large (up to 40m)quarried bays sporting superb arêtes, walls and once-pegged cracks. Climbing is mainly VS and above. Rock is generally excellent but can be green after Winter or heavy rain. Masters Edge is one of the best and hardest routes at E7 6b, but Covent Garden at VS 4c is just as good. Classic routes include Great North Road (HVS 5a), Portland Street (HVS 5b), Bond Street (HVS 5a), Regent Street (E2 5c),Time for Tea (E35c), London Wall (E5 6a), the list is endless, a host of superb E5s. Take lots of wires. An ideal place to brush up your jamming skills.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

Dry
Broken cloud
18 °C
Dry
Sunny periods
17 °C		   
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), Eastern Grit (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs

 Climb nameGradex
 NORTH BAY  
2BrindleVS 4c 3
3ScrimselVS 4c 3
4BrimstoneE2 5b **111
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *13
6Gates of MordorE3 5c ***50
7HacklespurHVS 5b *19
8Cauldron CrackE3 5c 5
9Freight TrainE4 6a 1
10EstremoHVS 5a **46
11GimbalsHVS 5b *33
12Mother's PrideE6 6c ***6
13PerplexityE6 6b ***3
14PlexityHVS 5a ***164
15Remembrance DayVS 4c *44
16Day DreamVS 4b *17
17Rainy DayVS 4b *10
18CommixE2 5c 12
19Top LoaderE7 6c ***2
20Bohemian Grovefont 8a *1
21Saville StreetE3 6a ***33
22Shape ShifterE6 6b * 
23Soho SallyHVS 5b *7
 CIOCH AREA  
25Fluted CornerHS 4a 3
26February FoxE2 5b *3
27March HareE2 5b *32
28April AreteHVS 4c *85
29Dextrous HareE3 5c *43
30DexterityE1 5b **219
31Cioch CornerS 4a *71
32MaydayHVS 5a *115
33Supra DirectE1 5b *120
34The HackerVS 4c 35
35Close ShaveS 4a *160
36BoomerangS 4a *120
37BrumalVS 4c 13
38Cioch DiagonalHVD 13
39Cornerstone ClimbS 12
40Only JustE2 5b *35
41EarthaHS 4a **287
42Bowling GreenVD *11
43F.A.T.D.S 3c 10
44Rough PuffVD 3
45Flaky PastryVD 8
46Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 1
47Evening PremiereVS 4c *7
 GREAT SLAB  
49SveltHVS 5a *171
50The Psycho PathE6 6b  
51VelvetE2 5c 2
52The Snivelling ShitE5 6a **55
53The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 64
54Greasy ChipsVS 4b *4
55Election SpecialE4 6b *4
56Great Slab (Millstone)HS 4b **475
57Sex DwarvesE3 6b 28
58LoricaVS 4c *62
59Cake WalkHS 13
60Bun RunHVS 5a 10
61WindreteE2 5b *19
 TWIKKER AREA  
63Breeze MuggerE5 6b 1
64Meeze BruggerE5 6b *4
65ErosE1 5b *100
66Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **100
67Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***209
68ErbE2 5c **123
69TwikkerE3 5c ***58
70LubricHVS 5b *9
71Pinstone StreetE2 5c *17
72Diamond GrooveHVS 5b *7
73Black CrackS 1
74FlapjackVS 4b *61
75NeatfeetVS 5a *21
76SSSVS 4b *25
77Winter's GripE6 6b *2
78KeelhaulVS 4c *16
79Crusty CornerS *1
80QuiddityHVS 5a *24
81BillingsgateE1 5b **163
 THE CORNERS AND ARETES  
83Stone DriE2 6a *26
84Nib NobHVS 5b 2
85InstabilityS 1
86CrewcutVS 4c **71
87YourolympusVS 4c *3
88XanaduE1 5b **10
89Under Doctor's OrdersE2 5c *9
90Jealous PensionerE4 5c *14
91Xanadu DirectE3 5c **8
92Adios AmigoE5 6b **3
93The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c 1
94Great West RoadE2 5b ***71
95Edge LaneE5 5c ***39
96Green Death Left Hand StartV3 6a 1
97Green DeathE5 5c ***14
98Green Death Startfont 6c ***14
99Green Death Super Direct Startfont 7b ***4
 Climb nameGradex
100Master's EdgeE7 6c ***7
101Great AreteE5 5c ***3
102KnightsbridgeE2 5c **120
103Scoop CrackVS 4b *88
104The ScoopD *137
105DetourE2 5c 4
106The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b *2
107Clock PeopleE6 6c *1
108Watling StreetE3 5b *7
109BypassVS 4b *42
110Great North RoadHVS 5a ***530
111Quality StreetE5 6b *2
112Deaf DogV1 5
113Master Cheffont 7b **1
114Master Chef Sit Startfont 7c **1
115Technical Baiterfont 5+ **38
116Technical Master Left-handfont 6c ***30
117Technical Masterfont 6b ***157
118Technical master, One handedV8  
 EMBANKMENT WALL  
120Blind BatE4 5c *10
121Embankment 1E2 5c **291
122Elm Street/10,000 ManiacsE8 6c **1
123Embankment 2VS 4c **620
124CompromiseE1 5b *9
125Scritto's RepublicE7 6b **3
126Embankment 3E1 5b ***424
127Time For TeaE3 5c ***205
128Tea for TwoE4 6a **22
129Time For Tea OriginalE1 5b **60
130Embankment 4E1 5b **297
131WhitehallHVS 5b *32
132LottoE1 5c *24
133Little lotto areteV2 5c **57
134Seventies style wallV4 6a *19
135Handy Pocketfont 5 **12
136Handy Pocket Rightfont 6b+ *3
137Green Slabfont 6a+ *3
138Covent GardenVS 4b **431
139ScruplesE5 6b 1
140Bond StreetHVS 5a ***572
141MonopolyE7 6b **4
142Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***481
143White WallE5 6b **31
144The MallVS 4c ***539
145London WallE5 6a ***24
146Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *145
 KEYHOLE CAVE AREA  
148Old Kent RoadD 13
149AlopeciaHVS 5a 5
150Petticoat LaneHVS 4c 13
151Bow StreetHVS 5b 14
152Metal RashE1 5b 2
153Brixton RoadVD **172
154EkelS 6
155SkywalkVS 4b *74
156Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b ***2
157The EconomistE6 6b *1
158The RackE5 6a *6
159Oxford StreetE3 6b **28
160Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **100
161Coventry StreetE4 6b ***48
162Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***22
163Regent StreetE2 5c ***294
164Regent Street VariantE3 6a 7
165Wall Street CrashE5 6b **4
166Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5a *84
167The WhoreHVS 5b *58
168GimcrackVS 4c **208
169Happy WandererVS 4c 8
170At a CliffHVS 5a 7
171OrielVS 5a *42
172Trio CrackS 9
173Pot Leg WallHVS 5c 12
 HELL'S BELL AREA  
175Bent crackHS 4b 6
176Butter-essHVS 5b 2
177CrosswaysHVD 9
178Flank CrackVD 24
179Chiming CrackHS 4b *264
180Hells BellsHS 4a *212
181JuniperE1 5b 2
182MidriftVD *182
183Giant's StepsVD 152
184WonderlustE4 6a  
185Street LegalE2 5c 38
186Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b 4
187WilfredS 12
188SqueakVS 5b 9
189Helping handsE1 5b 2
190PipS 2
191Big AlV0 5a 2
192Crane Fly Climb *HS 4a 2
193Frond Crack *S 2
194Apoplexy *E7 6b 1
195The Jasmine Corridor *E6 6c 1
196Discovery *HVS 5b * 
197Embankment 1 First Pitch *VS 4c *1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Approach from Surprise View car park on A625 Sheffield to Hathersage road (SK 251801).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Campsites, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ropeboy ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as a Registered User to add your comments

Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy ? - 27/May/10

The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
jonny2vests ? - 27/May/10

Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy ? - 26/Sep/08

"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane ? - 26/Sep/08

Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04