Millstone Edge

Climbs 264 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features

The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Approach notes

Try not to belay to the fence posts!


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BAY  
2BrindleVS 4c 6
3ScrimselVS 4c 6
4BrimstoneE2 5b **266
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *29
6Anything is Possible in CartoonsE4 6b  
7Gates of MordorE3 5c **131
8Pin PrickE2 5c  
9HacklespurHVS 5b *34
10Cauldron CrackE3 5c *13
11Freight TrainE4 6a *2
12EstremoHVS 5a **113
13GimbalsHVS 5b **88
14London PrideE5 6b **3
15Mother's PrideE6 6c ***14
16PerplexityE6 6b ***6
17ApoplexyE7 6b **2
18PlexityHVS 5a ***430
19Remembrance DayVS 4c **131
20Day DreamVS 4c *40
21Rainy DayVS 4b 18
22Southern ComfortE3 5c * 
23OwzaboutthatthenE4 6b  
24CommixE2 5c *32
25Top LoaderE7 6c ***1
26Bohemian GroveV11 7a * 
27DrifterE7 6c *1
28Saville StreetE3 6a ***85
29Shape ShifterE6 6b *1
30Soho SallyE1 5b *21
31ObscurityE6 6b *1
32Learn to ForgetE6 6b 2
 LITTLE LOWER WALL  
34BrigadoonV8 6c ** 
35Salinela SunsetE4 6a  
36Fat and JealousE5 6c  
 CIOCH BAY  
38Slack AliceE1 5c  
39BamboozleVS 4c 1
40Dolorous GardE2 5b 2
41Fluted CornerHS 4b 6
42February FoxE1 5b *23
43March HareE2 5b **65
44April ArÍteHVS 4c **159
45Dextrous HareE3 5c **119
46DexterityE1 5b **610
47Cioch CornerS 4a 176
48MaydayHVS 5a *282
49Supra DirectHVS 5b *306
50The HackerVS 4c *117
51Close ShaveS 4a *336
52BoomerangS 4a *279
53Cioch DiagonalHVD 18
54Brumal DirectHVS 5b 2
55BrumalVS 4c 40
56Straight JacketE5 6b  
57Eskimo Blue DayVS 4c 5
58Cornerstone ClimbHS 4a 19
59ShamrotS 4a 1
60Only JustE2 5b *89
61EarthaHS 4a **682
62Slime CrimeE4 6a  
63Bowling GreenVD *23
64F.A.T.D.HS 4a *33
65Rough PuffHS 4b 9
66Flaky PastryHS 4b 15
67Sudden ImpactE1 5b  
68Dune FlakeVS 4a 1
69Dune CrackVS 4a 1
70The Pittsburgh EnigmaE4 5c 1
71Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 9
72Evening PremiereHVS 5a *17
73Evening Premiere Direct FinishE1 5b 1
74Creaking CornerHS 4b 1
75Crumbling CornerHS 4a 1
 GREAT SLAB  
77Crumbling CracksHS 4a 1
78SveltHVS 5a *404
79Gibbering Heap of PussE3 5c  
80The Psycho PathE6 6b * 
81VelvetE2 5c 3
82The Snivelling ShitE5 6a **122
83Election SpecialE3 6a *6
84The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 155
85The Great SlabHS 4b **1079
86DinoE4 6b 1
87Sex Dwarvesf6B+ *56
88LoricaVS 4c **156
89Cake WalkS 4a 20
90Bun RunHVS 5a 18
91WindrÍteE2 5b **54
 TWIKKER AREA  
93Breeze MuggerE5 6b 1
94Meeze BruggerE5 6b *5
95ErosE1 5b **318
96Frank Sinatra Bows OutE5 6b  
97AcheronVS 4c  
98Mean to MeHVS 5b  
99Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **246
100AfricanE3 6a ** 
101ErbivoreE5 6b  
102Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***557
103ErbE2 5c ***343
104TwikkerE3 5c ***150
105LubricHVS 5b *15
106The Bed of Procustesf8A+ *** 
107Pinstone StreetE2 5c *55
108Grist to the MillE4 6a *2
109Diamond GrooveHVS 5b 12
110Shady WallVS 4c  
111Helliconia SpringHVS 5a  
112Black CrackS 4a 4
113OptimusE1 5a  
114FlapjackVS 4b *143
115NeatfeetHVS 5a *36
116S.S.S.VS 4c *70
117Winter's GripE6 6b **4
118KeelhaulVS 4c 40
119Crusty CornerS 4a 4
120QuiddityHVS 5a *51
121FindusHVS 5b 1
122BillingsgateE1 5b **372
123Sea CreatureE4 6a  
124PiledriverE3 5c  
 GREEN DEATH  
126Nib NobHVS 5b 3
127Stone DriE2 6a *52
128CrewcutVS 4c **183
129YourolympusHVS 4c 11
130MyolympusHVS 5b 1
131Under Doctor's OrdersE2 6a *26
132Jealous PensionerE4 5c *41
133King EllmoreE6 6a *3
134XanaduE1 5b **17
135Xanadu DirectE3 5c **15
136The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c 2
137Adios AmigoE5 6b **1
138Cherry Bank RoadV10 7a  
139Great West RoadE3 5b ***183
140Edge LaneE5 5c ***98
141Green DeathE5 5c ***36
142Green Death Left-Hand StartV3 6a 5
143Green Death StartV4 6b ***33
144Green Death Superdirectf7B **7
145Master's EdgeE7 6c ***20
146Pure NowE9 6c * 
147The Bad and the BeautifulE6 6c ***10
148Great AreteE5 5c ***6
149Stranger in ParadiseE5 6a  
 GREAT NORTH ROAD  
151KnightsbridgeE2 5c ***331
152Scoop CrackVS 4b 187
153The ScoopD *265
154DiscoveryHVS 5b 5
155DetourE2 5c **35
156The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b 11
157Clock PeopleE6 6c * 
158Watling StreetE3 5b *17
159By-PassHVS 5a *83
160Great North RoadHVS 5a ***1337
161Quality StreetE5 6b *3
162Deaf DogHVS 5b 13
163Master Cheff7B **7
164Master Chef Sit-StartV9 6c **1
165Technical Baiterf5 *66
166Technical Master Left-handV5 6b ***66
167Technical Masterf6B ***333
168Technical Master One HandedV8 6c 5
 THE EMBANKMENT  
170Embankment 1E2 5c **456
171Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *353
172Blind BatE4 5c **27
17310,000 Maniacs/Elm Streetf7C+ **2
174Who Wants the WorldE5 6a  
175Embankment 2VS 4c **1586
176Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only)E1 5c 135
177Scritto's RepublicE7 6c **6
178Embankment 3E1 5b ***1192
179Tip TopV9 6c  
180Time for TeaE3 5c ***493
181Tea for TwoE4 6a ***45
182Time for Tea OriginalE1 5b ***150
183Embankment 4E1 5b ***735
184WhitehallHVS 5b **142
185The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c *1
186LottoE1 5c *51
187Lotto DirectE3 5c *4
188Little Lotto ArÍtef5 *142
189Seventies Style Wallf6B+ *37
190Handy PocketV1 5b **18
191Handy Pocket RightV4 6a *9
192Green SlabV3 6a *6
 LONDON WALL  
194Covent GardenVS 4b **1042
195ScruplesE5 6b 3
196Bond StreetHVS 5a ***1546
197MonopolyE7 6b **11
198Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***1240
199The Impetus for Stranger FacesE5 5c  
200White WallE5 6b ***67
201The MallVS 4c ***1391
202London WallE5 6a ***88
203Urban SprawlE6 6b  
204Badly BredE1 5c 3
205Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *395
 KEYHOLE CAVE  
207Old Kent RoadD 19
208Whitechapel RoadHVS 5a *2
209AlopeciaHVS 5a 9
210Brittle Road to FreedomE1 5b  
211Petticoat LaneHVS 4c *41
212Bow StreetHVS 4c *49
213Metal RashE1 5b 5
214Brixton RoadVD *321
215EkelS 4a 11
216SkywalkVS 4b **160
217LukeHVS 4c *1
218The EconomistE6 6b *1
219Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b **3
220The RackE5 6a **10
221Oxford StreetE3 6b *62
222Littleheath RoadE3 5c  
223Keyhole Traverse 1V5 6b 2
224Keyhole Traverse 2V6 6b 1
225Keyhole Traverse 3V7 6b  
226Keyhole Traverse 4V8 6c 1
227Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **266
228Coventry StreetE5 6b **127
229Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***45
230Jermyn Street Direct FinishE5 6b  
231TransmetropolitanE3 5c  
232Regent StreetE2 5c ***758
233Regent Street Direct StartE3 5c *12
234Wall Street CrashE5 6b **10
235Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5b *175
236The WhoreHVS 5b *121
237GimcrackVS 4c *454
238At-a-CliffHVS 5a 19
239Wings of SteelE3 5c  
240Happy WandererVS 5a 21
241Wash and Brush UpE1 6b  
242Charing Cross RoadHVS 5a *2
243OrielVS 5a *81
244Keyhole CopsE2 5c  
245Trio CrackS 4a 10
246Two Shot Holes (Pot Leg Wall)V2 5c *29
 HELLS BELLS  
248Bent CrackHS 4c *12
249Piper's CrackVD 1
250Butter-essHVS 5b *16
251CrosswaysHVD 13
252Key's ClimbHVS 5a 3
253Straight LegVS 4b 1
254Flared BottomHVS 5a 2
255Flank CrackVD 35
256Chiming CracksHS 4a *637
257Hells BellsHS 4b *497
258JuniperE1 5b 21
259MidriftVD 363
260Dirty HarryE3 5c ***1
261Giant's StepsVD 311
262WonderlustE4 6a  
263Street LegalE2 5c *108
264Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b *19
265Helping handsE1 5b 7
266Annabella SuperstellaE2 6b  
267WilfredS 4a 17
268SqueakVS 5b 12
269Beneath the Pavement Lies the BeachE4 6a  
270PipS 4a 8
 THE LITTLE QUARRY  
272FireworksV5 6b 1
273DamageV4 6a 1
274HalloweenV4 6b 1
275Big AlV0 5a 4
276Humpty DumptyE1 5b  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04