Millstone Edge

Climbs 263 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth corners and crack lines that are pure inspiration. Although cracks have become untrendy over recent years the ones you find here are not the dreaded off-widths. Many of the routes were originally aid climbs up hair-line cracks and the repeated inserting and removing of pegs widened the crack enough to allow access to (thin!) fingers, pointed toes and plentiful medium-wire protection. It is worth putting a bit of extra thought into your rack before setting off up one of these of finger-sized cracks since often you will need to make repeated use of the same size wire. But it is not just about cracks since there are also many fine corners and arêtes formed by the thoughtful quarrying of the various bays. The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Cave could not have been designed better even if a climber had been in charge of the dynamite. Well maybe they might have done something about the unstable finishes since some of the exits are a little dangerous where sub-aerial weathering had started to erode the rock before it was exposed by the quarrymen. These 'crisp-bread' finishes require care and it is always a good idea to place an extra bomber-wire or two before trying to top out.

Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BAY  
2BrindleVS 4c 6
3ScrimselVS 4c 6
4BrimstoneE2 5b **246
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *25
6Anything is Possible in CartoonsE4 6b  
7Gates of MordorE3 5c **110
8Pin PrickE2 5c  
9HacklespurHVS 5b *31
10Cauldron CrackE3 5c *12
11Freight TrainE4 6a *2
12EstremoHVS 5a *103
13GimbalsHVS 5b **82
14London PrideE5 6b **2
15Mother's PrideE6 6c ***14
16PerplexityE6 6b ***6
17ApoplexyE7 6b 2
18PlexityHVS 5a ***405
19Remembrance DayVS 4c *118
20Day DreamVS 4c 37
21Rainy DayVS 4b 18
22Southern ComfortE3 5c * 
23OwzaboutthatthenE4 6b  
24CommixE2 5c *31
25Top LoaderE7 6c **1
26Bohemian Grovef8A * 
27DrifterE7 6c *1
28Saville StreetE3 6a ***78
29Shape ShifterE6 6b *1
30Soho SallyE1 5b *18
31ObscurityE6 6b *1
32Learn to ForgetE6 6b 2
 LITTLE LOWER WALL  
34Brigadoonf7B ** 
35Salinela SunsetE4 6a  
36Fat and JealousE5 6c  
 CIOCH AREA  
38Slack AliceE1 5c  
39BamboozleVS 4c 1
40Dolorous GardE2 5b 1
41Fluted CornerHS 4b 6
42February FoxE2 5b *20
43March HareE2 5b *61
44April ArêteHVS 4c **152
45Dextrous HareE3 5c *106
46DexterityHVS 5b **569
47Cioch CornerS 4a 164
48MaydayHVS 5a *257
49Supra DirectHVS 5b *290
50The HackerVS 4c *96
51Close ShaveS 4a 307
52BoomerangS 4a *262
53Cioch DiagonalHVD 17
54Brumal DirectHVS 5b 2
55BrumalVS 4c 34
56Straight JacketE5 6b  
57Eskimo Blue DayVS 4c 5
58Cornerstone ClimbHS 4a 18
59ShamrotS  
60Only JustE2 5b *79
61EarthaHS 4a **622
62Slime CrimeE4 6a  
63Bowling GreenVD *23
64F.A.T.D.HS 4a 30
65Rough PuffHS 9
66Flaky PastryHS 15
67Sudden ImpactE1 5b  
68Dune FlakeVS 4a 1
69Dune CrackVS 4a 1
70The Pittsburgh EnigmaE4 5c 1
71Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 9
72Evening PremiereHVS 5a 16
73Evening Premiere Direct FinishE1 5b 1
74Creaking CornerHS 4b 1
75Crumbling CornerHS 4a 1
 GREAT SLAB AREA  
77Crumbling CracksHS 4a 1
78SveltHVS 5a *371
79Gibbering Heap of PussE3 5c  
80The Psycho PathE6 6b * 
81VelvetE2 5c 3
82The Snivelling ShitE5 6a **116
83Election SpecialE4 6b *6
84The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 142
85The Great SlabHS 4b **990
86DinoE4 6b  
87Sex DwarvesE3 6b *49
88LoricaVS 4c *129
89Cake WalkHS 19
90Bun RunHVS 5a 17
91WindrêteE2 5b *51
 TWIKKER AREA  
93Breeze MuggerE5 6b 1
94Meeze BruggerE5 6b *5
95ErosE1 5b *295
96Frank Sinatra Bows OutE5 6b  
97AcheronVS 4c  
98Mean to MeHVS 5b  
99Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **223
100AfricanE3 6a ** 
101Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***501
102ErbE2 5c **322
103TwikkerE3 5c ***135
104LubricHVS 5b *14
105The Bed of ProcustesV12 7a  
106Pinstone StreetE2 5c *51
107Grist to the MillE4 6a *2
108Diamond GrooveHVS 5b *12
109Shady WallVS 4c  
110Helliconia SpringHVS 5a  
111Black CrackS 3
112OptimusE1 5a  
113FlapjackVS 4b *131
114NeatfeetHVS 5a *33
115S.S.S.VS 4c *66
116Winter's GripE6 6b *4
117KeelhaulVS 4c *38
118Crusty CornerS 4a 4
119QuiddityHVS 5a *45
120FindusHVS 5b 1
121BillingsgateE1 5b **349
122Sea CreatureE4 6a  
123PiledriverE3 5c  
 CORNERS AREA  
125Nib NobHVS 5b 3
126Stone DriE2 6a *48
127CrewcutVS 4c **164
128YourolympusVS 4c 10
129MyolympusHVS 5b  
130Under Doctor's OrdersE2 6a *24
131Jealous PensionerE4 5c *39
132King EllmoreE6 6a *3
133XanaduE1 5b **16
134Xanadu DirectE3 5c **14
135The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c 2
136Adios AmigoE5 6b **1
137Cherry Bank RoadV10 7a  
138Great West RoadE3 5b ***172
139Edge LaneE5 5c ***90
140Green DeathE5 5c ***33
141Green Death Left-Hand StartV3 6a 5
142Green Death StartV4 6b ***31
143Green Death SuperdirectV8+ 7a **6
144Master's EdgeE7 6c ***20
145Pure NowE9 6c  
146The Bad and the BeautifulE6 6b **9
147Great ArêteE5 5c ***6
148Stranger in ParadiseE5 6a  
149KnightsbridgeE2 5c **296
150Scoop CrackVS 4b 171
151The ScoopD *256
152DiscoveryHVS 5b *4
153DetourE2 5c *31
154The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b 10
155Clock PeopleE6 6c * 
156Watling StreetE3 5b *15
157By-PassHVS 5a *78
158Great North RoadHVS 5a ***1212
159Quality StreetE5 6b *3
160Deaf DogV1 5b 13
161Master ChefV8+ 6c **7
162Master Chef Sit-StartV9 6c **1
163Technical BaiterV1 5b *63
164Technical Master Left-handV5 6b ***63
165Technical MasterV4 6b ***322
166Technical Master One HandedV8 6c 5
 EMBANKMENT WALL AREA  
168Blind BatE4 5c *26
169Embankment 1E2 5c **445
170Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *293
171Who Wants the WorldE5 6a  
17210,000 Maniacs/Elm StreetE8 6c **1
173Embankment 2VS 4c **1449
174Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right-Hand Crack Only)E1 5c 112
175Scritto's RepublicE7 6c **6
176Embankment 3E1 5b ***1066
177Tip TopV9 6c  
178Time for TeaE3 5c ***456
179Tea for TwoE4 6a **42
180Time for Tea OriginalE1 5b ***135
181Embankment 4E1 5b **671
182WhitehallHVS 5b *123
183The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c 1
184LottoE1 5c *48
185Lotto DirectE3 5c 4
186Little Lotto ArêteV2 5c 131
187Seventies Style WallV3 6a 36
188Handy PocketV1 5b **17
189Handy Pocket RightV4 6a *8
190Green SlabV3 6a *6
191Covent GardenVS 4b **939
192ScruplesE5 6b 2
193Bond StreetHVS 5a ***1375
194MonopolyE7 6b **9
195Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***1125
196The Impetus for Stranger FacesE5 5c  
197White WallE5 6b **62
198The MallVS 4c ***1246
199London WallE5 6a ***86
200Urban SprawlE6 6b  
201Badly BredE1 5c 3
202Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *360
 KEYHOLE CAVE AREA  
204Old Kent RoadD 19
205Whitechapel Road *HVS 5a, 4b *2
206AlopeciaHVS 5a 9
207Brittle Road to FreedomE1 5b  
208Petticoat LaneHVS 4c 39
209Bow StreetHVS 4c 46
210Metal RashE1 5b 5
211The Metal Rash Traverse *V1 5b *1
212Brixton RoadVD *306
213EkelS 11
214SkywalkHS 4b *150
215The EconomistE6 6b *1
216Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b ***3
217The RackE5 6a *10
218Oxford StreetE3 6b **58
219Littleheath RoadE3 5c  
220Keyhole Traverse 1V5 6b 1
221Keyhole Traverse 2V6 6b 1
222Keyhole Traverse 3V7 6b  
223Keyhole Traverse 4V8 6c 1
224Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **243
225Coventry StreetE4 6b **114
226Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***42
227Jermyn Street Direct FinishE5 6b  
228TransmetropolitanE3 5c  
229Regent StreetE2 5c ***689
230Regent Street Direct StartE3 5c *12
231Wall Street CrashE5 6b **9
232Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5b *158
233The WhoreHVS 5b *114
234GimcrackVS 4c *422
235At-a-CliffHVS 5a 15
236Wings of SteelE3 5c  
237Happy WandererVS 4c 19
238Wash and Brush UpE1 6b  
239Charing Cross RoadHVS 5a *1
240OrielVS 5a *79
241Keyhole CopsE2 5c  
242Trio CrackS 10
243Pot Leg WallV2 5c 27
244Two Shot Holes *V2 5c *1
 HELL'S BELL AREA  
246Bent CrackHS 4b 12
247Piper's CrackVD 1
248Butter-essHVS 5b *16
249CrosswaysS 4a 12
250Key's ClimbHVS 5a 3
251Straight LegVS 4b 1
252Flared BottomHVS 5a 2
253Flank CrackVD 33
254Chiming CracksHS 4a *573
255Hells BellsHS 4b *448
256JuniperE1 5b 17
257MidriftVD 339
258Giant's StepsVD 294
259WonderlustE4 6a  
260Street LegalE2 5c *93
261Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b *18
262Helping handsE1 5b 7
263Annabella SuperstellaE2 6b  
264WilfredS 17
265SqueakVS 5b 12
266Beneath the Pavement Lies the BeachE4 6a  
267PipS 8
 THE LITTLE QUARRY  
269FireworksV5 6b 1
270DamageV4 6a 1
271HalloweenV4 6b 1
272Big AlV0 5a 4
273Humpty DumptyE1 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
i absolutley love this crag, also a black diamond c4 (blue) left on the crag, its jammed.
coreybennett - 22/Apr/14
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12
Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11
Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10
The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10
Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08
"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08
Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04