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These details were last updated on 20/Oct/2010

Millstone Edge

South Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 205 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Large (up to 40m)quarried bays sporting superb arêtes, walls and once-pegged cracks. Climbing is mainly VS and above. Rock is generally excellent but can be green after Winter or heavy rain. Masters Edge is one of the best and hardest routes at E7 6b, but Covent Garden at VS 4c is just as good. Classic routes include Great North Road (HVS 5a), Portland Street (HVS 5b), Bond Street (HVS 5a), Regent Street (E2 5c),Time for Tea (E35c), London Wall (E5 6a), the list is endless, a host of superb E5s. Take lots of wires. An ideal place to brush up your jamming skills.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
8 °C
18 kph

2.2mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
33 kph

0.7mm rain
Sun
11 °C
22 kph

1.4mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
13 kph

3.7mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2006), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NORTH BAY  
2BrindleVS 4c 5
3ScrimselVS 4c 4
4BrimstoneE2 5b **210
5Satan's SlitHVS 5b *23
6Gates of MordorE3 5c ***92
7HacklespurHVS 5b *29
8Cauldron CrackE3 5c 9
9Freight TrainE4 6a 2
10EstremoHVS 5a **90
11GimbalsHVS 5b *67
12Mother's PrideE6 6c ***8
13PerplexityE6 6b ***5
14ApoplexyE7 6b 1
15PlexityHVS 5a ***355
16Remembrance DayVS 4c *103
17Day DreamVS 4b *32
18Rainy DayVS 4b *15
19CommixE2 5c 29
20Top LoaderE7 6c ***1
21Bohemian Grovef8A * 
22Saville StreetE3 6a ***69
23Shape ShifterE6 6b * 
24Soho SallyHVS 5b *14
 CIOCH AREA  
26Fluted CornerHS 4a 6
27February FoxE2 5b *19
28March HareE2 5b *60
29April AreteHVS 4c *147
30Dextrous HareE3 5c *99
31DexterityE1 5b **492
32Cioch CornerS 4a *148
33MaydayHVS 5a *239
34Supra DirectE1 5b *247
35The HackerVS 4c 93
36Close ShaveS 4a *280
37BoomerangS 4a *245
38BrumalVS 4c 31
39Cioch DiagonalHVD 17
40Cornerstone ClimbS 18
41Only JustE2 5b *69
42EarthaHS 4a **567
43Bowling GreenVD *22
44F.A.T.D.S 3c 26
45Rough PuffVD 9
46Flaky PastryVD 15
47Wuthering CrackHVS 5a 7
48Evening PremiereVS 4c *14
 GREAT SLAB  
50SveltHVS 5a *346
51The Psycho PathE6 6b  
52VelvetE2 5c 2
53The Sniveling ShitsE5 6a **109
54The Moronic ChippingsVS 4a 109
55Greasy ChipsVS 4b *15
56Election SpecialE4 6b *6
57Great Slab (Millstone)HS 4b **904
58Sex DwarvesE3 6b 41
59LoricaVS 4c *121
60Cake WalkHS 19
61Bun RunHVS 5a 17
62WindreteE2 5b *50
 TWIKKER AREA  
64Breeze MuggerE5 6b  
65Meeze BruggerE5 6b *4
66ErosE1 5b *241
67Lyons Corner House DirectHVS 5a **190
68Lyons Corner HouseHVS 5a ***440
69ErbE2 5c **283
70TwikkerE3 5c ***120
71LubricHVS 5b *14
72Pinstone StreetE2 5c *47
73Diamond GrooveHVS 5b *10
74Black CrackS 3
75FlapjackVS 4b *117
76NeatfeetVS 5a *32
77SSSVS 4b *51
78Winter's GripE6 6b *3
79KeelhaulVS 4c *35
80Crusty CornerS *4
81QuiddityHVS 5a *40
82BillingsgateE1 5b **318
 THE CORNERS AND ARETES  
84Stone DriE2 6a *43
85Nib NobHVS 5b 2
86InstabilityS 1
87CrewcutVS 4c **142
88YourolympusVS 4c *8
89XanaduE1 5b **15
90Under Doctor's OrdersE2 5c *23
91Jealous PensionerE4 5c *38
92Xanadu DirectE3 5c **13
93Adios AmigoE5 6b **1
94The Trumpton AnarchistE5 6c 1
95Great West RoadE2 5b ***153
96Edge LaneE5 5c ***86
97Green Death Left Hand StartV3 6a 5
98Green DeathE5 5c ***30
99Green Death Startf6C ***29
100Green Death Super Direct Startf7B ***6
101Master's EdgeE7 6c ***19
102The Bad and the BeautifulE7 6b ***9
103Great AreteE5 5c ***5
104KnightsbridgeE2 5c **258
105Scoop CrackVS 4b *149
106The ScoopD *237
107DiscoveryHVS 5b *1
 Climb nameGradex
108DetourE2 5c 25
109The Hunter House Road ToadE5 6b *10
110Clock PeopleE6 6c * 
111Watling StreetE3 5b *12
112BypassVS 4b *65
113Great North RoadHVS 5a ***1076
114Quality StreetE5 6b *3
115Deaf DogV1 12
116Master Cheff7B **7
117Master Chef Sit Startf7C **1
118Technical Baiterf5+ **60
119Technical Master Left-handf6C ***60
120Technical Masterf6B ***296
121Technical master, One handedV8 4
 EMBANKMENT WALL  
123Blind BatE4 5c *23
124Embankment 1E2 5c **413
125Embankment 1 - First PitchVS 4c *240
126Elm Street/10,000 ManiacsE8 6c **1
127Embankment 2VS 4c **1305
128Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only)E1 5c 75
129CompromiseE1 5b *16
130Scritto's RepublicE7 6b **5
131Embankment 3E1 5b ***929
132Time For TeaE3 5c ***404
133Tea for TwoE4 6a **40
134Time For Tea OriginalE1 5b **121
135Embankment 4E1 5b **579
136WhitehallHVS 5b *103
137The Jasmine CorridorE6 6c 1
138LottoE1 5c *48
139Lotto DirectE3 5c **4
140Little lotto areteV2 5c **118
141Seventies style wallV4 6a *34
142Handy Pocketf5 **17
143Handy Pocket Rightf6B+ *8
144Green Slabf6A+ *6
145Covent GardenVS 4b **841
146ScruplesE5 6b 1
147Bond StreetHVS 5a ***1214
148MonopolyE7 6b **7
149Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***994
150White WallE5 6b **58
151The MallVS 4c ***1118
152London WallE5 6a ***77
153Lambeth ChimneyHS 4b *321
 KEYHOLE CAVE AREA  
155Old Kent RoadD 18
156AlopeciaHVS 5a 8
157Petticoat LaneHVS 4c 33
158Bow StreetHVS 5b 39
159Metal RashE1 5b 3
160Brixton RoadVD **285
161EkelS 11
162SkywalkVS 4b *136
163Adam Smith's Invisible HandE6 6b ***3
164The EconomistE6 6b *1
165The RackE5 6a *9
166Oxford StreetE3 6b **52
167Piccadilly CircusE2 5c **211
168Coventry StreetE4 6b ***98
169Jermyn StreetE5 6a ***41
170Regent StreetE2 5c ***609
171Regent Street VariantE3 6a 12
172Wall Street CrashE5 6b **8
173Shaftesbury AvenueHVS 5a *145
174The WhoreHVS 5b *103
175GimcrackVS 4c **383
176Happy WandererVS 4c 17
177At a CliffHVS 5a 13
178OrielVS 5a *73
179Trio CrackS 10
180Pot Leg WallHVS 5c 24
 HELL'S BELL AREA  
182Bent crackHS 4b 11
183Butter-essHVS 5b 12
184CrosswaysHVD 11
185Flank CrackVD 32
186Chiming CrackHS 4b *508
187Hells BellsHS 4a *408
188JuniperE1 5b 13
189MidriftVD *314
190Giant's StepsVD 272
191WonderlustE4 6a  
192Street LegalE2 5c 84
193Blood and Guts on Botty StreetE5 6b 17
194WilfredS 17
195SqueakVS 5b 12
196Helping handsE1 5b 7
197PipS 8
198Big AlV0 5a 4
199Crane Fly Climb HS 4a 6
200Frond Crack S 6
201Charing Cross Road *A1 *1
202London Pride *E5 6b 1
203Badly Bred *E1 5c 1
204Key Climb *HS 4a 2
205Drifter *E7 6c ** 
206Eskimo Blue Day *M 4
207Brigadoon *f7B ** 
208African *E3 6a ** 
209Sky Walk *HS 4b *3
210Grist to the mill *E4 6a *2
211Obscurity *E6 6b *1
212Whitechapel Road *HVS 5a, 4b *2
213King Ellmore *E6 6a *3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Try not to belay to the fence posts!

Approach from Surprise View car park on A625 Sheffield to Hathersage road (SK 251801).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ropeboy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Put some new cord on the coventry street peg. Hard to tell whether the peg itself is in any fit state.
remus - 29/Sep/12

Aren't these two routes the same... Embankment 2 Eliminate (Right Hand Crack Only) E1 5c Compromise E1 5b
slacky - 28/Mar/11

Thanks, route updated. You can always send route updates for this sort of thing if you want.
Ropeboy - 27/May/10

The grade for Embankment 1 P2 is wrong, should be E2 5c. Happy to moderate this crag if you have too much on your hands Ropeboy.
Jonny2vests - 27/May/10

Cheers Dan, recently took over moderating this crag, along with a couple of others, and there is a substanial back log, as you are aware, that takes time to bring up to date.
Ropeboy - 26/Sep/08

"Ropeboy" please can you keep the crag upto date. Dan
Dan Lane - 26/Sep/08

Absolutely beautiful and inspiring crag. However, be warned all of the routes are desperate and very difficult. Easy access from the car park where there is usually plenty of parking. Mr. T took me up and I fell off everything, he subsequently humped up most of the routes. Not the best place for a shandy drinking southerner like myself to enjoy the pleasures of grit.
JoHNY - 08/Jul/04