Climbs 43 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Most climbing is on the west face which needs several days to dry after rain. Check out the the hexagonal columns on the right.

The west sports face stays reasonably dry in rain. Some loose holds are now settling. The west face now has four lower offs and closely spaced routes, which can be combined in many ways! LEAVE all in-situ lower-offs in place thankyou.

Approach notes
Best avoided in the lambing season, February and March. http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Dunglas

Please park in Strathblane at the church and walk in along the pleasant old railway path towards Lennoxtown. 15 min. No parking at the farm!!

7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015),
Out of print: 7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
3Dunglas CornerS 1
4OverlordE1 5c  
5North-East AreteE2 5c  
6Drink Up for Tomorrow we DieE7 6b * 
7UnnamedE2 5b  
8Don't Wake Up NowE5 5c  
9Dream DeliriousE5 6a * 
10Joker's GrooveVS 4c  
11Bite them BequerelsE3 5b  
12The NightmareE2 5c 1
13The Gentle TouchHVS 5b  
14PulloverVS 4c  
15Curioser and CurioserVS 4c 1
16SkirmishVS 5a 4
17The CrossE1 5b *4
18A Feet of ArmsHVS 5b  
19DownfallHVS 5b  
20The RampM  
21DeviantE1 5b *1
22Steel FingerE3 6a * 
23Imodium Wall7a+ **3
24Imodium Crack6a *62
25Whiplash6b+ *22
26Mister Poops6b+ **29
27Poop Deck6c+ 19
28Bahama Breeze6c+ *5
29Negotiations with Isaac6c **61
30The Tanning Salon7a **17
31Political Legacy7b 7
32Landward6b+ 8
33The Beef Monster LH7a **20
34The Beef Monster RH6c+ **35
35The Seam7a+ *23
36Airhead7a **16
37The Ring Cycle7b+ ***1
38Wall of HorrorsE3 5c *1
39Little GripperVS 5a 1
40Moss FlopD  
41Last GraspS  
42A Dream of Brown TrousersVS 5b  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Can anyone tell me if the bolt in the boulder is still there as described below? would be looking to shunt some of the routes.
Stevie989 - 22/Jul/14
Nice crag, friendly atmosphere, good day out. Could do with a lower off above Whip lash, ann extra bolt in Poopdeck above the bulge and Andy's old bolts replaced in Negotiations and Beef. Anyone got any objections to me taking up the hilti next time? Also the single krabs on LO which lie flat on rock would benefit from a Maillon to make them perpindicular to the wall, will see what I can do.
sheppy - 27/Jun/10
A very contrived sport 'crag-let', albeit a pleasant one. Your best bet is to forget the routes (as may be described) and just climb random lines at will for training purposes. Plenty of variations are possible but giving them names is, frankly, a bit redundant.
Fraser - 26/May/10
Sector Sport - Best to use the Stone Country topo (2010 Yearbook) as a rough guide and just link the bolts as you see fit. Lots of good climbing in a lovely setting.
JLS - 26/May/10
Sport routes are *extremely* crammed in and confusing, however most of them are proper climbs (or usually variants on the few real lines), apart from Tanning Salon Direct which simply doesn't exist. Will try to get a topo made at some point.
Fiend - 22/Apr/10
didnt bother looking at trad though the sport routes are value if you are getting into the 7s. Though found it very hard to work out which route was which! (especially the 6bs!?) photo topo anyone? for those shunting or top roping, there is a bolt on a boulder above the crag to lower off, this takes you to the top of the 4th sport belay.
michael83 - 10/Aug/09
Major shortage of belays on the trad routes, anyone know how to place a stake securely?
Brendan - 19/Apr/09
Rubbish crag!! Loose, covered in shite, no belays!! Looks good from the road but really isn't.
ligemidio - 09/Jul/08