Climbs 43
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 835m a.s.l
Faces NW

Effort Face © WillDC

Crag features

A closely-packed set of routes running steeply up the side of a rocky ravine. The ravine is called the Barranco de los Molinos. The routes are well protected and tend to be steep, strenuous and fingery. As is so often the case with out-of-the-way locations, the grades here can seem on the harsh side. The angle of the rock and sharpness of the holds don't help; be prepared to drop your sights a little or get beaten up. Climbers who operate in the 6s and low 7s and who enjoy technical faces should find enough climbing for a good day’s sport here. Many of the climbs have their names painted on the rock or stamped on the first bolt bracket.

The cliff faces north west and thus only gets the sun quite late on in the day, because of this it can be a rather cool venue in the winter. Early in the day it provides a shady retreat in hotter weather. There is often a breeze blowing down the Barranco which helps keep things cool when the heat is on and makes conditions bitter when the weather is cold!

Approach notes

Ibi is best approached from the A-7 motorway which runs from Alicante towards Alcoi. From the south, leave at junction 34 and drive into the town. Turn right at the first traffic lights onto the main street and follow this past a roundabout and some traffic lights to another set of traffic lights by a petrol station. There is no left turn here but overshoot the junction then do a U-turn to get onto the correct road. Drive down here until a right turn signed 'Banyeres de Moriola'. About 1km after leaving the town there is a right turn, just before the second bridge, and just beyond a ‘no overtaking’ sign. Drive down the track past a red ‘probihut fer foc’ sign and park on the right after 100m. Leave nothing in the car. 

From the north, leave the A-7 at junction 40 and head straight into the town. This takes you to the junction above by the petrol station.

Walk to the mill and climb steps just in front of it to reach the base of the crag. Scramble up the slope to find the object of your desire - and some flat ground!

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Peña Almarra - Barranco De Los Molinos 
3Búho5a 4
4Chinto fano6a+ 3
5Carlo y bruña7b  
6Stalak5a 1
7Rompe dedos7b  
8Mediterráneo Free6c+ 2
9Bacalao de Bilbao7a+ * 
10El vira7b * 
11Route 107a  
12La traverse de les figúrese6a+  
13La chica yeye7b+ * 
14Variante Pontect4a  
15Pontect6c *1
16No name dos
17La cegaste Burlan Castor8a  
18Bon perfil7b * 
19Intron 'A'7a * 
21Viril os6c * 
22Pico nata6a+ *1
23Que potiti6c+  
24Figurita6a 1
25Vaya marrón6c  
26Tela con la Paula6c  
27Artero no seas duro7a  
28Licencia para matar6c+  
29Maldita hepatitis6b+ *1
30Linda bonita6b *2

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