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Ponterwyd QuarryCeredigion, WALES
Climbs 11 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude 301m a.s.l – Faces SW
The quarry has been used for top-roping on an occasional basis by local climbers since the 1970s. Two of the now bolted routes were led in traditional style in 1979, one of which was a very bold undertaking. All sport routes are equipped with lower-offs and are generously bolted (owing to the somewhat friable nature of the rock.) A few very poor, low grade trad routes have been climbed in other parts of the quarry; these are not described here. The routes are described from left to right. (See crag phototopo).
The quarry is a SSSI and is located in an area of open sheep pasture. It is not on open access land and there are no public rights of way either leading to, or within, the quarry and access is therefore entirely at the discretion of the landowner.
THERE IS NO FORMAL ACCESS AGREEMENT AND FOR THIS REASON A VERY SMALL GROUP, LOW KEY APPROACH, WITH A MAXIMUM OF 4 CLIMBERS AT THE CRAG AT ANY ONE TIME, IS STRONGLY ADVISED.
Failure to abide by this advice will very likely lead to a total loss of access (as has happened for long periods in the past because of inconsiderate behaviour.)
Nothing should be done to jeopardise access; this is NOT a suitable venue for large groups/ organised meets, abseil practice, zip lines, slack lines, dry tooling, barbecues etc, etc. All litter, however small, must be removed. Dogs should preferably not be taken to the crag, but if unavoidable, they must be kept under strict control and on a lead at all times.
Climbs at this crag
The quarry is an open cast cut in a hillside, about 250 metres north of the A44 (Aberystwyth to Llangurig), 12 miles east of Aberystwyth and a short distance to the west of the village of Ponterwyd. Cars can be parked in the layby at the side of the A44 directly below the quarry. Approach is made via the access track and a short scree slope in about 5 minutes. All gates must be opened and then securely re-closed; please do not climb over any gates or fences.
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