CHWAREL PONTERWYD is a small and long disused quarry, the dominant feature of which is a slab that offers a number of fully equipped sport climbs up to 18 metres long. The slab dries fairly quickly after wet weather and receives the sun from early afternoon. Some loose rock exists, although this will diminish with greater use.
If top roping from intermediate bolts, don't thread the rope directly through the bolts; always use a screwgate. The eye of one bolt on 'Milk Race' is already becoming worn due to such bad practice.
The quarry is not on open access land and there are no public rights of way either leading to, or within, the quarry; access is therefore entirely at the discretion of the landowner. There is no access agreement but, to date, occasional visits by climbers appear to be tolerated.
It should be appreciated that this status quo can change at any time and the quarry’s inclusion on this database does not infer that climbers have any right whatsoever to climb on it. If challenged, climbers must take heed of any instructions to leave the area, remain respectful and avoid any confrontation with the landowner, their agent or representative. It goes without saying that climbers must also ensure that they avoid damaging fences, gates or any other structures.
FOR THE REASONS OUTLINED ABOVE, A VERY SMALL GROUP, LOW KEY APPROACH, WITH A MAXIMUM OF 4 CLIMBERS AT THE CRAG AT ANY ONE TIME, IS STRONGLY ADVISED.
Failure to abide by this advice will very likely lead to a total loss of access (as has happened for long periods in the past because of inconsiderate behaviour.) Nothing should be done to jeopardise access.
The quarry is an open cast cut in a hillside, about 250 metres north of the A44 (Aberystwyth to Llangurig), 12 miles east of Aberystwyth and a short distance to the west of the village of Ponterwyd. Cars can be parked in the layby at the side of the A44 directly below the quarry. Approach is made via the access track and a short scree slope in less than 10 minutes. All gates must be opened and then securely re-closed; please do not climb over any gates or fences.
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