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These details were last updated on 24/Jul/2014

Ponterwyd Quarry

Ceredigion, WALES

Climbs 11 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude 301m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
CHWAREL PONTERWYD is a small and long disused quarry, the dominant feature of which is a slab that offers a number of fully equipped sport climbs (resin bolts) of up to 18 metres. The slab dries fairly quickly after wet weather and receives the sun from early afternoon. Some loose rock exists, although this will diminish with greater use.

The quarry has been used for top-roping on an occasional basis by local climbers since the 1970s. Two of the now bolted routes were led in traditional style in 1979, one of which was a very bold undertaking. All sport routes are equipped with lower-offs and are generously bolted (owing to the somewhat friable nature of the rock.) A few very poor, low grade trad routes have been climbed in other parts of the quarry; these are not described here. The routes are described from left to right. (See crag phototopo).

The quarry is a SSSI and is located in an area of open sheep pasture. It is not on open access land and there are no public rights of way either leading to, or within, the quarry and access is therefore entirely at the discretion of the landowner. There is no access agreement but, to date, occasional visits by climbers appear to be tolerated.

However it should be appreciated that this status quo can change at any time and the quarry’s inclusion on this database does not infer that climbers have any right whatsoever to climb on it. If challenged, climbers must take heed of any instructions to leave the area, remain respectful and avoid any confrontation with the landowner, their agent or representative. It goes without saying that climbers must also ensure that they avoid damaging fences, gates or any other structures.

AS THERE IS NO FORMAL ACCESS AGREEMENT AND FOR THE REASONS OUTLINED ABOVE, A VERY SMALL GROUP, LOW KEY APPROACH, WITH A MAXIMUM OF 4 CLIMBERS AT THE CRAG AT ANY ONE TIME, IS STRONGLY ADVISED.

Failure to abide by this advice will very likely lead to a total loss of access (as has happened for long periods in the past because of inconsiderate behaviour.)

Nothing should be done to jeopardise access; this is NOT a suitable venue for large groups/ organised meets, abseil practice, zip lines, slack lines, dry tooling, barbecues etc, etc. All litter, however small, must be removed. Dogs should preferably not be taken to the crag, but if unavoidable, they must be kept under strict control and on a lead at all times.

Access notes
The quarry is an open cast cut in a hillside, about 250 metres north of the A44 (Aberystwyth to Llangurig), 12 miles east of Aberystwyth and a short distance to the west of the village of Ponterwyd. Cars can be parked in the layby at the side of the A44 directly below the quarry. Approach is made via the access track and a short scree slope in about 5 minutes. All gates must be opened and then securely re-closed; please do not climb over any gates or fences.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

2.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
19 kph

8.5mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
20 kph

7.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
15 °C
14 kph

0.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1The CornerHVS 5a  
2Boom Boom6b+ *4
3Bang Bang6b+ *3
4Milk and Alcohol6a+ *3
5Milk Race4c 5
6Silurian Smiles6a+ 4
 Climb nameGradex
7The Man Who Cried Milk6a+ *6
8The Man Who Sold the World6a+ *5
9The Milky Bar Kid5a 8
10Mini Milk5a 4
11Semi-Skimmed6a+ *1
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Williams

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I climbed the obvious crack lines in the mid nineties (96?) with Richard Lock thinking that they might be new. Never wrote them up. Think it is stupid to bolt them.
James Mann - 11/Jun/14

Thanks Dave. I thought it was probably the Man Who Cried Milk. There were quite a lot of nut scars on it.
goi.ashmore - 01/Apr/14

Three routes were climbed here in 1979. These were quite bold traditional ascents of the bolted lines now named Milk Race and The Man Who Cried Milk, the latter protected by a single poor peg at half height. The remaining route - The Corner - has probably not been re-led in the intervening period.
Dave Williams - 01/Apr/14

Which were the original trad routes? I did think that I saw some nut scars on one of the thin lines of cracks.
goi.ashmore - 31/Mar/14

All FA details of the routes are known; the slab routes were equipped by the first ascentionists. HTH.
Dave Williams - 13/Jan/14

Are the first ascents known or can I shotgun them? Anyone know who bolted the quarry/ named the routes? I like milk too :D
Sol Armer - 13/Jan/14