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These details were last updated on 11/Jul/2012

The Whangie

East Dumbarton, SCOTLAND

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 264m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A unique outcrop with inspirational views down Loch Lomond.

It Catches the sun on all outward facing buttresses from midday which dries them quickly. Some routes are loose and most are steep. Belays can be difficult as can reaching them which makes top-roping difficult.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.0mm rain
Sun
8 °C
11 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
20 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
28 kph

3.5mm rain
Cloudy
9 °C
18 kph

2.9mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
13 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Southeastern HighlandsMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Staircase CrackM 22
2Easy ChimneyD 31
3Easy GrooveD 57
4Cave ChimneyVD *69
5Heartbreak CornerE1 5b **21
6Barrowland BulgeS 4a 13
7Spider slabS 4a 10
8Backsnapper crackVD 14
9Curving CrackHVS 5a ***33
10Novice OverhangD 2
11Needle RouteM 3
12Mossy Slab, LeftD 7
13blaeberry crackVD 13
14Mossy Slab, RightS *10
15Bird's NestVD ***38
16Red CrackVD 19
17Hangover OverhangVS 4b 11
18Vampire CrackVS 4c **75
19Ivy CrackHS 4b ***125
20Backstep ChimneyHS 4b **118
21The BulgeHS 4b *6
22Windswept wallS 4a 5
23Trench wallVD *21
24Knife EdgeE2 5b 10
25TriangleVS 4c *19
26Sloping LedgeHS 4b *12
 Climb nameGradex
27Fallen Tree GrooveS 4a *3
28Overhanging CleftHVS 5a *13
29Rowan RibVS 4c **6
30Sunshine CrackVS 4c *6
31Cave CrackVS 4c 8
32Easy WallVD 15
33Snowy TraverseHS 4a 3
34HedgehogE2 5c *5
35Recess RouteVS 4c 11
36Ruth's RouteVS 4c **9
37Whippenwoof WallS 4a *4
38Young's RouteS 4a *3
39Militant Tendency *E1 5a 1
40Sou' west rib *VD 2
41Andy Bloc *f5+ *2
42Fingaripper *f6B 1
43Andy's Lip *f6A+ *2
44The Crack *f6B+ *1
45Whangie Traverse *f6C+ ***2
46Rune Wall *f6A+ *2
47Angel Direct *HVS 5a *1
48Upturned Flake *HVS 5a *1
49Gendarmerie *none 4a 1
50Mano A Guano *f5+  
51Angel Wall *f6A **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
From the Queens View car park a 40 minute walk following a muddy track past a rocky step leads to the crag.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer hukerjohn

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Great views, mediocre climbing. Not bad if you're leading HS but not worth the walk otherwise.
Fiend - 02/Aug/12

Rock fall on cave crack
Owain - 23/Apr/11

Very Very Nice venue, amazing views down loch lomond and gets the sun on pretty much every face from just after Midday. Really surprised to see no other climbers there. Loads of family though so care needed not to take them out with falling climbers(we gave them a good show and hopefully insperation), ropes, or the wee bit of lose at the top of the crags.
andymoin - 18/Apr/11

The climbs above don't seem to be in the right order according to Lowland Outcrops (2004).
Mr G - 06/Jan/11

Just visited the whangiwe for first time and would disagree about the low protection for beginners. Some routes are bad yes, but there is classic climbs there which are very safe, Ivy crack and backstep chimney are very stable climbs with great gear placements possible in evey section aswell as easy grove and easy chimney. Any beginner climber who feels competent enough with gear placement should visit for these climbs alone.
colinerees - 14/Sep/09

first time there and i broke backstep chimney,and it broke me a wee bit too see the photos,but climed a few pitches before lack of blood forced me back to the car park ( beware of loose rock by the way )
anderson405 - 26/Aug/07

In contrast to the above comments, I would not recommend the Whangie for beginners. There is not much gear on the easier routes (or the hard routes for that matter!), there is much loose rock and recommended routes like the Vampire (VS) are actually hard for the grade. Ivy crack is brilliant but had for the grade I think, though the pro is superb. If attempting Vampire, ensure you can hand and fist jamb 1st! Beginners are better served at places such as Rosyth Quarry or Aberdour.
Doughboy - 25/Jul/05

Been about 3 times to the Whangie, very exposed (except passage between rocks!) Decent for bouldering BUT much of the climbs have loose crumbly rock! Good place for beginers & experienced climbers, good climbing possiblities, about a 40 minute walk form car park, its worth a visit!
Jay Jay - 23/Jan/03

Found myself stranded atop several pinnacles and outcrops after some rather enthusiastic \'bouldering\'. A few hairy moments when some of the rock felt no more substantial than a hardended piece of polysterene. That said, limitless possibilities and exciting climbs.
Grant - 22/Jul/02

Found myself stranded atop several pinnacles and outcrops after some rather enthusiastic \'bouldering\'. A few hairy moments when some of the rock feels no more substantial than a hardended piece of polysterene. That said, limitless possibilities and exciting climbs.
Grant - 22/Jul/02

Excellent routes for those starting out climbing are Vampire Crack (VS), Ivy Crack (HS) and Backstep chimney (HS). these routes plus the fantastic outlook over Loch Lomond and the S. Highlands make it worthwhile to go to this crag. Beware, you are taking your life in your hands with many of the chossier lines though.
wee Davie - 22/Mar/02