The Whangie

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 264m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A unique outcrop with inspirational views down Loch Lomond.

It Catches the sun on all outward facing buttresses from midday which dries them quickly. Some routes are loose and most are steep. Belays can be difficult as can reaching them which makes top-roping difficult.

Access notes
From the Queens View car park a 40 minute walk following a muddy track past a rocky step leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE GENDARME 
2Spider slabS 4a
3Blaeberry CrackVD
4Mossy Slab, LeftD
5Mossy Slab, RightS *
6Staircase CrackM
7The BulgeHS 4b *
8Bird's NestVD ***
9Red CrackVD
10Windswept wallS 4a
11Upturned FlakeHVS 5a *
12Angel DirectHVS 5a *
13Heartbreak CornerE1 5b **
14Knife EdgeE2 5b
15Hangover OverhangVS 4b
16Trench wallVD *
17Barrowland BulgeS 4a
18Backsnapper crackVD
19GendarmerieS 4a
 NUMBER ONE FACE 
21TriangleVS 4c *
22Recess RouteVS 4c
23Cave CrackVS 4c
24Sou' west ribVD
25Snowy TraverseHS 4a
26Cave ChimneyVD *
27Easy ChimneyD
28Easy WallVD
29Easy GrooveD
30Vampire CrackVS 4c **
31Ivy CrackHS 4b ***
32Backstep ChimneyHS 4b **
33HedgehogE2 5c *
34Curving CrackHVS 5a ***
35Sloping LedgeHS 4b *
36Overhanging CleftHVS 5a *
37Rowan RibVS 4c **
38Sunshine CrackVS 4c *
 NUMBER TWO FACE 
40Militant TendencyE1 5a
41Ruth's RouteVS 4c **
42Whippenwoof WallS 4a *
43Fallen Tree GrooveS 4a *
44Young's RouteS 4a *
45Needle RouteM
46Novice OverhangD
 BOULDER PROBLEMS 
48Andy Blocf5+ *
49Fingaripperf6B
50Mano A Guanof5+
51Angel Wallf6A **
52Andy's Lipf6A+ *
53Rune Wallf6A+ *
54The Crackf6B+ *
55Whangie Traversef6C+ ***
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Great views, mediocre climbing. Not bad if you're leading HS but not worth the walk otherwise.
Fiend - 02/Aug/12
Rock fall on cave crack
Owain - 23/Apr/11
Very Very Nice venue, amazing views down loch lomond and gets the sun on pretty much every face from just after Midday. Really surprised to see no other climbers there. Loads of family though so care needed not to take them out with falling climbers(we gave them a good show and hopefully insperation), ropes, or the wee bit of lose at the top of the crags.
andymoin - 18/Apr/11
The climbs above don't seem to be in the right order according to Lowland Outcrops (2004).
Mr G - 06/Jan/11
Just visited the whangiwe for first time and would disagree about the low protection for beginners. Some routes are bad yes, but there is classic climbs there which are very safe, Ivy crack and backstep chimney are very stable climbs with great gear placements possible in evey section aswell as easy grove and easy chimney. Any beginner climber who feels competent enough with gear placement should visit for these climbs alone.
colinerees - 14/Sep/09
first time there and i broke backstep chimney,and it broke me a wee bit too see the photos,but climed a few pitches before lack of blood forced me back to the car park ( beware of loose rock by the way )
anderson405 - 26/Aug/07
In contrast to the above comments, I would not recommend the Whangie for beginners. There is not much gear on the easier routes (or the hard routes for that matter!), there is much loose rock and recommended routes like the Vampire (VS) are actually hard for the grade. Ivy crack is brilliant but had for the grade I think, though the pro is superb. If attempting Vampire, ensure you can hand and fist jamb 1st! Beginners are better served at places such as Rosyth Quarry or Aberdour.
Doughboy - 25/Jul/05
Been about 3 times to the Whangie, very exposed (except passage between rocks!) Decent for bouldering BUT much of the climbs have loose crumbly rock! Good place for beginers & experienced climbers, good climbing possiblities, about a 40 minute walk form car park, its worth a visit!
Jay Jay - 23/Jan/03
Found myself stranded atop several pinnacles and outcrops after some rather enthusiastic \'bouldering\'. A few hairy moments when some of the rock felt no more substantial than a hardended piece of polysterene. That said, limitless possibilities and exciting climbs.
Grant - 22/Jul/02
Found myself stranded atop several pinnacles and outcrops after some rather enthusiastic \'bouldering\'. A few hairy moments when some of the rock feels no more substantial than a hardended piece of polysterene. That said, limitless possibilities and exciting climbs.
Grant - 22/Jul/02
Excellent routes for those starting out climbing are Vampire Crack (VS), Ivy Crack (HS) and Backstep chimney (HS). these routes plus the fantastic outlook over Loch Lomond and the S. Highlands make it worthwhile to go to this crag. Beware, you are taking your life in your hands with many of the chossier lines though.
wee Davie - 22/Mar/02
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These details were last updated on 03/Jul/2014

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