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These details were last updated on 24/May/2012

Craigmore

East Dumbarton, SCOTLAND

Climbs 144 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt.

Recent, overzealous cleaning and chopping of trees is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary. Tree cutting is a no-no and all problems can be climbed with trees intact. Some pine trees have been replanted along the top to replace those that are suffering from abseiling and fire-builders. Collect any litter you see...a rare 1900 Camp Coffee bottle was found, so it's not just recent louts dumping their crap over the crag.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath – Met Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 CHIMNEY AREA  
2Chimney Aretenone 4c  
3The ChimneyS 4a 16
4Polofont 5+ 5b 7
5Poloverf6A+ 6a *4
6Tanktopfont 5+ 5c 1
7Silver Aretefont 3+ 4a 10
8Glugfont 2 3b 9
9Grooved aretefont 4 4c 18
10Totemf6A 5c *5
11Kit KatD 3b 39
12Leglessf6B 6a 2
13Wide Eyed Crackf6C+ 6b ***9
14Harmlessf6A 6a *17
15Arrowhead Left-HandS 4b 32
16Arrowhead Eliminatef6A 2
17Arrowhead Right-Handnone 3b 2
18Colin's Traversef7A+ *1
19Chimney Traversef6A+ *4
 MAIN AREA  
21CariadHVS 5b  
22Magic crackHVS 5b 8
23Holly Tree CornerHS 4b 10
24Merlinf6C *4
25The BeastE2 5c 8
26Slingsby's CrystalE2 6a 2
27Jolly Green DragonE1 5c 22
28Dolly Jean Dragqueenf6C *6
29Craigmore CornerHVS 5b ***90
30Tom And Jerry WallVS 5a **76
31RampageHS 4b *85
32Curving GrooveHVS 5b 18
33Hamilton's AreteE4 6b **2
34Daylight RobberyVS 4c 3
35Basil BrushHVS 5b 3
36The NicheHS 4c *76
37CribVS 5a 15
38RampantVD 4a 35
39Grotty GrooveVD 4a 35
40Sunday WallVS 5b 7
41Hot DawgHVS 5c 2
 LAYBACK CRACK AREA  
43Swingtimef6A+ 6
44Ragtimef7A 4
45Terror Leftfont 4+ 4c 4
46Terrorf6A 5c **17
47Terror Rightf6B 6a **4
48Terror Sit Startf6C 3
49BwanaHVS 5b 1
50Inverlussa CrackE2 5c  
51Spinal WallE2 6a **5
52Andy's Aretef6C+ **6
53Andy's Wallf6C *7
54Stand-up Routinef6B+ *1
55White HopeE1 5c 15
56Layback CrackE1 5c ***41
57Layback Crack - True FinishE4 6a 8
58Layback Wall Blocf6C 6b **1
59Layback Traversef6B *6
60Craig's WallE7 6c *** 
61Crag MateVS 5a 4
62SalamanderHVS 5b 3
63Not Another EliminateE2 6a * 
64SamsonHVS 5b 2
65Samson blocf6B+ *2
66Sabre CrackVS 4c **79
67Stiletto CrackVS 4c **84
68Rapier AreteE1 5b 3
69Scabbard traversefont 4+ 2
 BLADE AREA  
71The Blade.font 5 5a 1
72White Streaknone 5b  
73Preliminary ExerciseE2 5c  
74Tae a Moose Sit Startfont 5+ 6a  
75Tae a Moosefont 2+ 3c 5
76Latch Key Kidf6C 6b * 
 Climb nameGradex
77Tic Tacfont 4+ 5a 2
78Bugs Bunnynone 3b 1
79WeaselHVS 5b 1
80StoatHVS 5b *3
81Stoaterfont 5+ *1
82AutobahnVS 5a 15
83Autobahn Wallf6B * 
84All HopeVS 5a 8
85Hendo's Sit Startf6A *1
86Hendo's Obsessionfont 5+ 5c 1
87Elkfont 2+ 3a 5
88Ellfont 3 4a  
89Tarantulafont 5 5b *3
90Leech Arete Directf7A+ 6c * 
91Leech Arete Righthandf6C+ 6b * 
92Leech Directnone 6a **7
93Leechfont 5+ 5b 5
94Eelfont 3 4b 1
95Coal Facenone 4b 8
96Charcoal Chimneyfont 3 4a 8
97Black Beautyfont 4+ 5a *10
98Black Powerfont 3+ 4c 6
99Mat Blackfont 3 3c 6
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
101East Wallfont 3+ 4c 2
102Pinnacle Wallfont 3+ 4c **2
103Donald Duckfont 3 4a 1
104Mickey Mousefont 3 4b 1
105Pigletfont 3+ 4c 2
106Pig's Earfont 4+ 5a 2
107Silk Pursefont 4+ 5b 1
108West Wallfont 4+ 5b 1
109Extraretefont 4 5a 5
110Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress)font 3+ 4a  
111Sunshine Arete Wallfont 4+ 5a 1
112Andy's Problemf6C+ 6b 1
 CRACKED SLABS  
114Tree Wallfont 4 5a 2
115Left Aretefont 3+ 4b 3
116Cracked SlabVD 3b 6
117Elephant Footf6A 5c  
118Elephant Foot Traversef6A+ 6a 1
119The Slabfont 3 4a 3
120Right Aretefont 3 4a 4
121Blunt Aretef6B 6a 1
122Cave Routefont 2 3a 4
 THE WIZARD  
124The Wizardf6B+ ***16
125Wizard Sit Startf7A **5
126Wizard Sit Start Eliminatef7B+ * 
127Tarotfont 3 3b 3
128Suzy Qfont 5 5b  
129Victory Vfont 4+ 4c  
130Victory V Sit Startf6A 6a  
131Wopiteef6A 5b  
132Expof6A 5b  
133Two Tree wallfont 4+ 4c *1
134Toadfont 3+ 4c  
135Rizlafont 3 3a  
 PINE TREE BOULDERS  
137Terminal Aretef6A  
138Vanguardfont 4  
139Jamie's Overhangf6A *7
140Jamie's Overhang Traversef6A+ 2
141Jamie's Overhang (Left)f6B **1
142Jamie's Overhang Sit Startf6B+ **3
143Jamie's SS Eliminatef6C *2
144Art of War directf6C 2
145The Art of Warf6C+ *9
146Monkey Hangerf7A *7
147Sanjurof7A *3
148Surprise Attackf7B *2
149Pine Cone Wallf6A 1
150Sunshine Aretefont 3 *2
151Sunburnfont 2+  
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Access notes
On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JSWatson ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods ? - 16/Apr/12

Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08