Craigmore

Climbs 158 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

Access notes
On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 CHIMNEY AREA 
2Chimney Aretenone 4c
3The ChimneyS 4a
4Polof5+ 5b
5Poloverf6A+ 6a *
6Tanktopf5+ 5c
7Silver Aretef3+ 4a
8Glugf2 3b
9Grooved aretef4 4c
10Totemf6A 5c *
11Kit KatD 3b
12Leglessf6B 6a
13Wide Eyed Crackf6C+ 6b ***
14Harmlessf6A 6a *
15Arrowhead Left-HandS 4b
16Arrowhead Eliminatef6A
17Arrowhead Right-Handnone 3b
18Colin's Traversef7A+ *
19Chimney Traversef6A+ *
 MAIN AREA 
21CariadHVS 5b
22Magic crackHVS 5b
23Holly Tree CornerHS 4b
24Merlinf6C *
25The BeastE2 5c
26Slingsby's CrystalE2 6a
27Jolly Green DragonE1 5c
28Dolly Jean Dragqueenf6C *
29Dolly Directf6A+ **
30Craigmore CornerHVS 5b ***
31Tom And Jerry WallVS 5a **
32Macmorris Arete DirectHVS 5c *
33RampageHS 4b *
34Curving GrooveHVS 5b
35Hamilton's AreteE4 6b **
36Daylight RobberyVS 4c
37Basil BrushHVS 5b
38The NicheHS 4c *
39CribVS 5a
40RampantVD 4a
41Grotty GrooveVD 4a
42Sunday WallVS 5b
43Hot DawgHVS 5c
 LAYBACK CRACK AREA 
45Swingtimef6A+
46Ragtimef7A
47Terror Leftf4+ 4c
48Terrorf6A 5c **
49Terror Rightf6B 6a **
50Terror Sit Startf6C
51Terror Right SSf7A
52BwanaHVS 5b
53Inverlussa CrackE2 5c
54Spinal WallE2 6a **
55Andy's Aretef6C+ **
56Andy's Wallf6C *
57Andy's Linkf7A **
58Stand-up Routinef6B+ *
59White HopeE1 5c
60Left hand Wallf6A+
61Layback CrackE1 5c ***
62Layback Crack - True FinishE4 6a
63Layback Wall Blocf6C 6b **
64Lay Crack BackE5 6a *
65Layback Traversef6B *
66Craig's WallE7 6c ***
67Crag MateVS 5a
68SalamanderHVS 5b
69Not Another EliminateE2 6a *
70SamsonHVS 5b
71Samson blocf6B+ *
72Samson sit leftf6A
73Sabre CrackVS 4c **
74Stiletto CrackVS 4c **
75Rapier AreteE1 5b
76Scabbard traversef4+
 BLADE AREA 
78The Blade.f5 5a
79White Streaknone 5b
80Preliminary ExerciseE2 5c
81Tae a Moose Sit Startf5+ 6a
82Tae a Moosef2+ 3c
83Latch Key Kidf6C 6b *
84Tic Tacf4+ 5a
85Bugs Bunnynone 3b
86WeaselHVS 5b
87StoatHVS 5b *
88Stoaterf5+ *
89AutobahnVS 5a
90Autobahn Wallf6B *
91All HopeVS 5a
92Hendo's Sit Startf6A *
93Hendo's Obsessionf5+ 5c
94Elkf2+ 3a
95Ellf3 4a
96Tarantulaf5 5b *
97Leech Arete Directf7A+ 6c *
98Leech Arete Righthandf6C+ 6b *
99Leech Directnone 6a **
100Leechf5+ 5b
101Eelf3 4b
102Coal Facenone 4b
103Charcoal Chimneyf3 4a
104Black Beautyf4+ 5a *
105Black Powerf3+ 4c
106Mat Blackf3 3c
 LITTLE BUTTRESS 
108East Wallf3+ 4c
109Pinnacle Wallf3+ 4c **
110Donald Duckf3 4a
111Mickey Mousef3 4b
112Pigletf3+ 4c
113Pig's Earf4+ 5a
114Silk Pursef4+ 5b
115West Wallf4+ 5b
116Extraretef4 5a
117Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress)f3+ 4a
118Sunshine Arete Wallf4+ 5a
119Andy's Problemf6C+ 6b
 CRACKED SLABS 
121Tree Wallf4 5a
122Left Aretef3+ 4b
123Cracked SlabVD 3b
124Elephant Footf6A 5c
125Elephant Foot Traversef6A+ 6a
126The Slabf3 4a
127Right Aretef3 4a
128Blunt Aretef6B 6a
129Cave Routef2 3a
 THE WIZARD 
131The Wizardf6B+ ***
132Wizard Sit Startf7A **
133Wizard Sit Start Eliminatef7B+ *
134Tarotf3 3b
135Suzy Qf5 5b
136Victory Vf4+ 4c
137Victory V Sit Startf6A 6a
138Wopiteef6A 5b
139Expof6A 5b
140Two Tree wallf4+ 4c *
141Toadf3+ 4c
142Rizlaf3 3a
 PINE TREE BOULDERS 
144Sunburnf2+
145Sunshine Aretef2+ *
146Sunshine Arete Leftf3
147Vanguardf3+
148The Bridgef4 *
149Vanguard foot eliminatef5+
150Pine Cone Wallf6A
151Jamie's Overhangf6A *
152Jamie's Overhang Traversef6A+
153Jamie's Overhang (Left)f6B **
154Jamie's Overhang Sit Startf6B+ **
155Jamie's SS Eliminatef6C *
156Art of War directf6C
157The Art of Warf6C+ *
158Monkey Hangerf7A *
159Sanjurof7A *
160Surprise Attackf7B *
161Terminal Aretef6A
 CRAIGMORE NORTH 
163South Wallf4+ *
164South Wall Centralf6B *
165Tiger Wallf6B+ **
166Entanglementf5+ *
167The Slopesterf4+ *
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08