Climbs 167
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces NE

Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401

Crag features

Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

Approach notes

On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chimney Area 
2Chimney Arete
none 4c 2
3The ChimneyS 4a 18
4Polof5+ 11
5Poloverf6A+ *8
6Tanktopf5+ 4
7Silver Aretef3+ 18
8Glugf2 12
9Grooved aretef4 24
10Totemf6A *14
11Totem Left Aretef4+ 2
12Totem Sit Startf6A *2
13Totem Dynof6B+ **1
14Kit KatD 3b 41
15Leglessf6B 4
16Wide Eyed Crackf6C+ ***12
17Harmlessf6A *23
18Arrowhead Left-Hand
S 4b 40
19Arrowhead Eliminatef6A 7
20Arrowhead Right-Hand
none 3b 4
21Colin's Traversef7A+ *1
22Chimney Traversef6B *9
23Hi, Low off to Totem we gof6C *1
 Main Area 
25CariadHVS 5b 3
26Magic crackHVS 5b 18
27Holly Tree CornerHS 4b 14
28Merlinf6C *6
29The BeastE2 5c 8
30Slingsby's CrystalE2 6a 3
31Jolly Green DragonE1 5c 27
32Dolly Jean Dragqueenf6C *8
33Dolly Directf6A+ **5
34Craigmore CornerHVS 5b ***107
35Tom And Jerry WallVS 5a **101
36Macmorris Arete DirectHVS 5c *1
37RampageHS 4b *105
38Curving GrooveHVS 5b 20
39Hamilton's AreteE4 6b **4
40Daylight RobberyVS 4c 5
41Basil BrushHVS 5b 4
42The NicheHS 4c *89
43CribVS 5a 16
44RampantVD 4a 43
45Grotty Groove
VD 4a 43
46Sunday Wall
VS 5b 10
47Hot DawgHVS 5c 5
 Layback Crack Area 
49Swingtimef6A+ 9
50Ragtimef7A 5
51Terror Leftf4+ 6
52Terrorf6A **25
53Terror Rightf6B **6
54Terror Sit Startf6C 6
55Terror Right SS
f7A 1
HVS 5b 2
57Inverlussa CrackE2 5c 1
58Spinal WallE2 6a **7
59Andy's Aretef6C+ **9
60Andy's Wallf6C *9
61Andy's Linkf7A **1
62Stand-up Routinef6B+ *4
63White HopeE1 5c 21
64Left hand Wallf6A+ 5
65Layback Crack
E1 5c ***54
66Layback Crack - True Finish
E4 6a ***15
67Layback Wall Blocf6C **2
68Lay Crack BackE5 6a *3
69Layback Traversef6B *11
70Craig's Wall
E7 6c *** 
71Crag Mate
VS 5a 6
72SalamanderHVS 5b 5
73Not Another EliminateE2 6a *3
74SamsonHVS 5b 5
75Samson blocf6B+ *6
76Samson sit leftf6A 7
77Sabre CrackVS 4c **100
78Stiletto CrackVS 4c **112
79Rapier Arete
E1 5b 7
80Scabbard traversef4+ 4
81Triplets Traversef5+ *2
82Triplets Low Traversef6C 2
 Blade Area 
84The Blade.f5 2
85White Streaknone 5b 1
86Preliminary ExerciseE2 5c  
87Tae a Moose Sit Startf5+  
88Tae a Moosef2+ 10
89Latch Key Kidf6C * 
90Tic Tacf4+ 4
91Bugs Bunny
none 3b 2
HVS 5b 4
HVS 5b *7
94Stoaterf5+ *2
95AutobahnVS 5a 23
96Autobahn Wallf6B *1
97All Hope
VS 5a 12
98Hendo's Sit Startf6A *1
99Hendo's Obsession
f5+ 1
f2+ 8
f3 3
102Tarantulaf5 *5
103Leech Arete Directf7A+ * 
104Leech Arete Righthandf6C+ * 
105Leech Direct
none 6a **11
106Leechf5+ 7
107Eelf3 2
108Coal Facenone 4b 16
109Charcoal Chimneyf3 13
110Black Beautyf4+ *19
111Black Powerf3+ 11
112Mat Blackf3 8
 Little Buttress 
114East Wallf3+ 3
115Pinnacle Wallf3+ **6
116Donald Duckf3 4
117Mickey Mousef3 4
118Pigletf3+ 3
119Pig's Earf4+ 3
120Silk Pursef4+ 2
121West Wallf4+ 2
122Extraretef4 6
123Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress)f3+ 2
124Sunshine Arete Wallf4+ 2
125Andy's Problemf6C+ 1
 Cracked Slabs 
127Tree Wallf4 4
128Left Aretef3+ 5
129Cracked SlabVD 3b 9
130Elephant Footf6A 3
131Elephant Foot Traversef6A+ 3
132The Slabf3 7
133Right Aretef3 6
134Blunt Aretef6B 3
135Cave Routef2 6
 The Wizard 
137The Wizardf6B+ ***21
138Wizard Sit Startf7A **7
139Wizard Sit Start Eliminatef7B+ * 
140Tarotf3 4
141Suzy Qf5 2
142Victory Vf4+ 1
143Victory V Sit Startf6A  
144Wopiteef6A 1
145Expof6A 1
146Two Tree wallf4+ *3
147Toadf3+ 2
148Rizlaf3 1
 Pine Tree Boulders 
150Sunburnf2+ 3
151Sunshine Aretef2+ *5
152Sunshine Arete Leftf3 1
153Vanguardf3+ 3
154The Bridgef4 *1
155Vanguard foot eliminatef5+ 1
156Pine Cone Wallf6A 5
157Jamie's Overhangf6A *10
158Jamie's Overhang Traversef6A+ 3
159Jamie's Overhang (Left)f6B **4
160Jamie's Overhang Sit Startf6B+ **5
161Jamie's SS Eliminatef6C *3
162Art of War directf6C 4
163The Art of Warf6C+ *10
164Monkey Hangerf7A *9
165Sanjurof7A *3
166Surprise Attackf7B *2
167Terminal Aretef6A 2
 Craigmore North 
169South Wallf4+ *3
170South Wall Centralf6B *3
171Tiger Wallf6B+ **3
172Entanglementf5+ *3
173The Slopesterf4+ *3
174Tiger Wall Sit Startf7A ***1
175Harmless SS Let *f6B+  
176Harmless SS Left *f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JSWatson