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These details were last updated on 30/Sep/2013

Craigmore

East Dumbarton, SCOTLAND

Climbs 152 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

7.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
13 kph

2.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
10 kph

0.5mm rain
Sunny periods
10 °C
18 kph

7.5mm rain
Cloudy
9 °C
13 kph

1.2mm rain
Sun
10 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 CHIMNEY AREA  
2Chimney Aretenone 4c  
3The ChimneyS 4a 16
4Polof5+ 5b 7
5Poloverf6A+ 6a *5
6Tanktopf5+ 5c 1
7Silver Aretef3+ 4a 10
8Glugf2 3b 9
9Grooved aretef4 4c 18
10Totemf6A 5c *7
11Kit KatD 3b 39
12Leglessf6B 6a 2
13Wide Eyed Crackf6C+ 6b ***10
14Harmlessf6A 6a *20
15Arrowhead Left-HandS 4b 34
16Arrowhead Eliminatef6A 3
17Arrowhead Right-Handnone 3b 2
18Colin's Traversef7A+ *1
19Chimney Traversef6A+ *5
 MAIN AREA  
21CariadHVS 5b  
22Magic crackHVS 5b 8
23Holly Tree CornerHS 4b 10
24Merlinf6C *6
25The BeastE2 5c 8
26Slingsby's CrystalE2 6a 2
27Jolly Green DragonE1 5c 25
28Dolly Jean Dragqueenf6C *7
29Craigmore CornerHVS 5b ***94
30Tom And Jerry WallVS 5a **84
31RampageHS 4b *90
32Curving GrooveHVS 5b 18
33Hamilton's AreteE4 6b **2
34Daylight RobberyVS 4c 3
35Basil BrushHVS 5b 3
36The NicheHS 4c *78
37CribVS 5a 15
38RampantVD 4a 38
39Grotty GrooveVD 4a 37
40Sunday WallVS 5b 8
41Hot DawgHVS 5c 2
 LAYBACK CRACK AREA  
43Swingtimef6A+ 6
44Ragtimef7A 4
45Terror Leftf4+ 4c 5
46Terrorf6A 5c **18
47Terror Rightf6B 6a **4
48Terror Sit Startf6C 5
49BwanaHVS 5b 1
50Inverlussa CrackE2 5c  
51Spinal WallE2 6a **6
52Andy's Aretef6C+ **7
53Andy's Wallf6C *7
54Andy's Linkf7A **1
55Stand-up Routinef6B+ *3
56White HopeE1 5c 17
57Left hand Wallf6A+ 1
58Layback CrackE1 5c ***47
59Layback Crack - True FinishE4 6a 11
60Layback Wall Blocf6C 6b **1
61Lay Crack BackE5 6a *1
62Layback Traversef6B *7
63Craig's WallE7 6c *** 
64Crag MateVS 5a 5
65SalamanderHVS 5b 3
66Not Another EliminateE2 6a * 
67SamsonHVS 5b 2
68Samson blocf6B+ *4
69Sabre CrackVS 4c **85
70Stiletto CrackVS 4c **90
71Rapier AreteE1 5b 4
72Scabbard traversef4+ 2
 BLADE AREA  
74The Blade.f5 5a 1
75White Streaknone 5b  
76Preliminary ExerciseE2 5c  
77Tae a Moose Sit Startf5+ 6a  
78Tae a Moosef2+ 3c 5
79Latch Key Kidf6C 6b * 
80Tic Tacf4+ 5a 2
81Bugs Bunnynone 3b 1
 Climb nameGradex
82WeaselHVS 5b 1
83StoatHVS 5b *3
84Stoaterf5+ *1
85AutobahnVS 5a 16
86Autobahn Wallf6B * 
87All HopeVS 5a 8
88Hendo's Sit Startf6A *1
89Hendo's Obsessionf5+ 5c 1
90Elkf2+ 3a 5
91Ellf3 4a  
92Tarantulaf5 5b *3
93Leech Arete Directf7A+ 6c * 
94Leech Arete Righthandf6C+ 6b * 
95Leech Directnone 6a **8
96Leechf5+ 5b 5
97Eelf3 4b 1
98Coal Facenone 4b 9
99Charcoal Chimneyf3 4a 8
100Black Beautyf4+ 5a *11
101Black Powerf3+ 4c 6
102Mat Blackf3 3c 6
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
104East Wallf3+ 4c 2
105Pinnacle Wallf3+ 4c **2
106Donald Duckf3 4a 1
107Mickey Mousef3 4b 1
108Pigletf3+ 4c 2
109Pig's Earf4+ 5a 2
110Silk Pursef4+ 5b 1
111West Wallf4+ 5b 1
112Extraretef4 5a 5
113Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress)f3+ 4a  
114Sunshine Arete Wallf4+ 5a 1
115Andy's Problemf6C+ 6b 1
 CRACKED SLABS  
117Tree Wallf4 5a 2
118Left Aretef3+ 4b 3
119Cracked SlabVD 3b 6
120Elephant Footf6A 5c 1
121Elephant Foot Traversef6A+ 6a 2
122The Slabf3 4a 3
123Right Aretef3 4a 4
124Blunt Aretef6B 6a 2
125Cave Routef2 3a 4
 THE WIZARD  
127The Wizardf6B+ ***17
128Wizard Sit Startf7A **6
129Wizard Sit Start Eliminatef7B+ * 
130Tarotf3 3b 3
131Suzy Qf5 5b  
132Victory Vf4+ 4c  
133Victory V Sit Startf6A 6a  
134Wopiteef6A 5b  
135Expof6A 5b  
136Two Tree wallf4+ 4c *1
137Toadf3+ 4c  
138Rizlaf3 3a  
 PINE TREE BOULDERS  
140Terminal Aretef6A  
141Vanguardf4  
142Jamie's Overhangf6A *8
143Jamie's Overhang Traversef6A+ 3
144Jamie's Overhang (Left)f6B **2
145Jamie's Overhang Sit Startf6B+ **3
146Jamie's SS Eliminatef6C *2
147Art of War directf6C 2
148The Art of Warf6C+ *9
149Monkey Hangerf7A *7
150Sanjurof7A *3
151Surprise Attackf7B *2
152Pine Cone Wallf6A 1
153Sunshine Aretef3 *2
154Sunburnf2+  
155Samson sit leftf6A 3
 CRAIGMORE NORTH  
157South Wallf4+ *1
158South Wall Centralf6B *1
159Tiger Wallf6B+ **1
160Entanglementf5+ *1
161The Slopesterf4+ *1
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Access notes
On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JSWatson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12

Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08