Climbs 172
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces NE

Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401

Crag features

Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

Approach notes

On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chimney Area 
2Chimney Arete
-
none 4c 2
3The ChimneyS 4a 19
4Polof5+ 11
5Poloverf6A+ *12
6Tanktopf5+ 6
7Silver Aretef3+ 17
8Glugf2 14
9Grooved aretef4 26
10Totemf6A *19
11Totem Left Aretef4+ 2
12Totem Sit Startf6A *3
13Totem Dynof6B+ **1
14Kit KatD 3b 43
15Leglessf6B 4
16Wide Eyed Crackf6C+ ***14
17Harmlessf6A *26
18Arrowhead Left-Hand
-
S 4b 43
19Arrowhead Eliminatef6A 11
20Arrowhead Leftf6C 1
21Arrowhead Right-Hand
-
none 3b 5
22Colin's Traversef7A+ *1
23Chimney Traversef6B *13
24Hi, Low off to Totem we gof6C *4
 Main Area 
26Harmless SS Letf6B+  
27Harmless SS Leftf6B 1
28CariadHVS 5b 3
29Magic crackHVS 5b 22
30Holly Tree CornerHS 4b 15
31Merlinf6C *7
32The BeastE2 5c 8
33Slingsby's CrystalE2 6a 3
34Jolly Green DragonE1 5c 28
35Dolly Jean Dragqueenf6C *9
36Dolly Directf6A+ **6
37Craigmore CornerHVS 5b ***128
38Tom And Jerry WallVS 5a **111
39Tom and Jerry (var.Arete Direct)HVS 5c *1
40Tom and Jerry Blocf5+ *1
41Tom and Jerry Sit Start Blocf6A *1
42T & J Sloper Eliminatef6C+ * 
43RampageHS 4b *116
44Curving GrooveHVS 5b 22
45Hamilton's AreteE4 6b **4
46Daylight RobberyVS 4c 6
47Basil BrushHVS 5b 4
48The NicheHS 4c *105
49CribVS 5a 16
50RampantVD 4a 46
51Grotty Groove
-
VD 4a 45
52Sunday Wall
-
VS 5b 13
53Hot DawgHVS 5c 5
 Layback Crack Area 
55Swingtimef6A+ 9
56Ragtimef7A 6
57Terror Leftf4+ 8
58Terrorf6A **29
59Terror Rightf6B **10
60Terror Sit Startf6C 8
61Terror Right SS
-
f7A 4
62Bwana
-
HVS 5b 2
63Inverlussa CrackE2 5c 1
64Spinal WallE2 6a **7
65Andy's Aretef6C+ **9
66Andy's Wallf6C *9
67Andy's Linkf7A **1
68Stand-up Routinef6B+ *4
69White HopeE1 5c 24
70Left hand Wallf6A+ 5
71Layback Crack
-
E1 5c ***58
72Layback Crack - True Finish
-
E4 6a ***16
73Layback Wall Blocf6C **3
74Lay Crack BackE5 6a *3
75Layback Traversef6B *12
76Craig's Wall
-
E7 6c *** 
77Crag Mate
-
VS 5a 7
78SalamanderHVS 5b 5
79Not Another EliminateE2 6a *3
80SamsonHVS 5b 5
81Samson blocf6B+ *6
82Samson sit leftf6A 8
83Sabre CrackVS 4c **115
84Stiletto CrackVS 4c **133
85Rapier Arete
-
E1 5b 8
86Scabbard traversef4+ 4
87Triplets Traversef5+ *2
88Triplets Low Traversef6C 2
 Blade Area 
90The Blade.f5 3
91White Streaknone 5b 1
92Preliminary ExerciseE2 5c  
93Tae a Moose Sit Startf5+  
94Tae a Moosef2+ 12
95Latch Key Kidf6C * 
96Tic Tacf4+ 5
97Bugs Bunny
-
none 3b 3
98Weasel
-
HVS 5b 5
99Stoat
-
HVS 5b *8
100Stoaterf5+ *2
101AutobahnVS 5a 25
102Autobahn Wallf6B *1
103All Hope
-
VS 5a 12
104Hendo's Sit Startf6A *1
105Hendo's Obsession
-
f5+ 1
106Elk
-
f2+ 8
107Ell
-
f3 3
108Tarantulaf5 *4
109Leech Arete Directf7A+ * 
110Leech Arete Righthandf6C+ * 
111Leech Direct
-
none 6a **11
112Leechf5+ 8
113Eelf3 3
114Coal Facenone 4b 19
115Charcoal Chimneyf3 16
116Black Beautyf4+ *22
117Black Powerf3+ 12
118Mat Blackf3 8
 Little Buttress 
120East Wallf3+ 3
121Pinnacle Wallf3+ **8
122Donald Duckf3 4
123Mickey Mousef3 4
124Pigletf3+ 4
125Pig's Earf4+ 4
126Silk Pursef4+ 2
127West Wallf4+ 2
128Extraretef4 6
129Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress)f3+ 2
130Sunshine Arete Wallf4+ 2
131Andy's Problemf6C+ 1
 Cracked Slabs 
133Tree Wallf4 4
134Left Aretef3+ 5
135Cracked SlabVD 3b 14
136Elephant Footf6A 3
137Elephant Foot Traversef6A+ 4
138The Slabf3 7
139Right Aretef3 6
140Blunt Aretef6B 4
141Cave Routef2 6
 The Wizard 
143The Wizardf6B+ ***21
144Wizard Sit Startf7A **9
145Wizard Sit Start Eliminatef7B+ * 
146Tarotf3 4
147Suzy Qf5 2
148Victory Vf4+ 1
149Victory V Sit Startf6A  
150Wopiteef6A 1
151Expof6A 2
152Two Tree wallf4+ *4
153Toadf3+ 3
154Rizlaf3 1
 Pine Tree Boulders 
156Sunburnf2+ 6
157Sunshine Aretef2+ *8
158Sunshine Arete Leftf3 3
159Vanguardf3+ 4
160The Bridgef4 *1
161Vanguard foot eliminatef5+ 1
162Pine Cone Wallf6A 7
163Jamie's Overhangf6A *13
164Jamie's Overhang Traversef6A+ 3
165Jamie's Overhang (Left)f6B **5
166Jamie's Overhang Sit Startf6B+ **6
167Jamie's SS Eliminatef6C *3
168Art of War directf6C 5
169The Art of Warf6C+ *12
170Monkey Hangerf7A *10
171Sanjurof7A *3
172Surprise Attackf7B *2
173Terminal Aretef6A 2
 Lower Wooded Blocs 
175Clubfootf6A 1
 Craigmore North 
177South Wallf4+ *5
178South Wall Centralf6B *4
179Tiger Wallf6B+ **4
180Entanglementf5+ *4
181The Slopesterf4+ *3
182Tiger Wall Sit Startf7A ***2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JSWatson