Climbs 169
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces NE

Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401

Crag features

Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

Approach notes

On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chimney Area 
2Chimney Arete
-
none 4c 2
3The ChimneyS 4a 19
4Polof5+ 11
5Poloverf6A+ *12
6Tanktopf5+ 6
7Silver Aretef3+ 17
8Glugf2 14
9Grooved aretef4 26
10Totemf6A *16
11Totem Left Aretef4+ 2
12Totem Sit Startf6A *3
13Totem Dynof6B+ **1
14Kit KatD 3b 43
15Leglessf6B 4
16Wide Eyed Crackf6C+ ***14
17Harmlessf6A *26
18Arrowhead Left-Hand
-
S 4b 43
19Arrowhead Eliminatef6A 9
20Arrowhead Leftf6C 1
21Arrowhead Right-Hand
-
none 3b 5
22Colin's Traversef7A+ *1
23Chimney Traversef6B *11
24Hi, Low off to Totem we gof6C *2
 Main Area 
26Harmless SS Letf6B+  
27Harmless SS Leftf6B 1
28CariadHVS 5b 3
29Magic crackHVS 5b 18
30Holly Tree CornerHS 4b 15
31Merlinf6C *7
32The BeastE2 5c 8
33Slingsby's CrystalE2 6a 3
34Jolly Green DragonE1 5c 27
35Dolly Jean Dragqueenf6C *9
36Dolly Directf6A+ **6
37Craigmore CornerHVS 5b ***121
38Tom And Jerry WallVS 5a **103
39Macmorris Arete DirectHVS 5c *1
40RampageHS 4b *112
41Curving GrooveHVS 5b 21
42Hamilton's AreteE4 6b **4
43Daylight RobberyVS 4c 6
44Basil BrushHVS 5b 4
45The NicheHS 4c *100
46CribVS 5a 16
47RampantVD 4a 46
48Grotty Groove
-
VD 4a 45
49Sunday Wall
-
VS 5b 10
50Hot DawgHVS 5c 5
 Layback Crack Area 
52Swingtimef6A+ 9
53Ragtimef7A 6
54Terror Leftf4+ 7
55Terrorf6A **27
56Terror Rightf6B **10
57Terror Sit Startf6C 8
58Terror Right SS
-
f7A 4
59Bwana
-
HVS 5b 2
60Inverlussa CrackE2 5c 1
61Spinal WallE2 6a **7
62Andy's Aretef6C+ **9
63Andy's Wallf6C *9
64Andy's Linkf7A **1
65Stand-up Routinef6B+ *4
66White HopeE1 5c 23
67Left hand Wallf6A+ 5
68Layback Crack
-
E1 5c ***57
69Layback Crack - True Finish
-
E4 6a ***16
70Layback Wall Blocf6C **3
71Lay Crack BackE5 6a *3
72Layback Traversef6B *12
73Craig's Wall
-
E7 6c *** 
74Crag Mate
-
VS 5a 6
75SalamanderHVS 5b 5
76Not Another EliminateE2 6a *3
77SamsonHVS 5b 5
78Samson blocf6B+ *6
79Samson sit leftf6A 8
80Sabre CrackVS 4c **106
81Stiletto CrackVS 4c **128
82Rapier Arete
-
E1 5b 8
83Scabbard traversef4+ 4
84Triplets Traversef5+ *2
85Triplets Low Traversef6C 2
 Blade Area 
87The Blade.f5 3
88White Streaknone 5b 1
89Preliminary ExerciseE2 5c  
90Tae a Moose Sit Startf5+  
91Tae a Moosef2+ 12
92Latch Key Kidf6C * 
93Tic Tacf4+ 5
94Bugs Bunny
-
none 3b 3
95Weasel
-
HVS 5b 5
96Stoat
-
HVS 5b *8
97Stoaterf5+ *2
98AutobahnVS 5a 24
99Autobahn Wallf6B *1
100All Hope
-
VS 5a 12
101Hendo's Sit Startf6A *1
102Hendo's Obsession
-
f5+ 1
103Elk
-
f2+ 8
104Ell
-
f3 3
105Tarantulaf5 *4
106Leech Arete Directf7A+ * 
107Leech Arete Righthandf6C+ * 
108Leech Direct
-
none 6a **11
109Leechf5+ 8
110Eelf3 3
111Coal Facenone 4b 18
112Charcoal Chimneyf3 14
113Black Beautyf4+ *22
114Black Powerf3+ 11
115Mat Blackf3 8
 Little Buttress 
117East Wallf3+ 3
118Pinnacle Wallf3+ **8
119Donald Duckf3 4
120Mickey Mousef3 4
121Pigletf3+ 4
122Pig's Earf4+ 4
123Silk Pursef4+ 2
124West Wallf4+ 2
125Extraretef4 6
126Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress)f3+ 2
127Sunshine Arete Wallf4+ 2
128Andy's Problemf6C+ 1
 Cracked Slabs 
130Tree Wallf4 4
131Left Aretef3+ 5
132Cracked SlabVD 3b 9
133Elephant Footf6A 3
134Elephant Foot Traversef6A+ 4
135The Slabf3 7
136Right Aretef3 6
137Blunt Aretef6B 4
138Cave Routef2 6
 The Wizard 
140The Wizardf6B+ ***21
141Wizard Sit Startf7A **9
142Wizard Sit Start Eliminatef7B+ * 
143Tarotf3 4
144Suzy Qf5 2
145Victory Vf4+ 1
146Victory V Sit Startf6A  
147Wopiteef6A 1
148Expof6A 1
149Two Tree wallf4+ *3
150Toadf3+ 2
151Rizlaf3 1
 Pine Tree Boulders 
153Sunburnf2+ 4
154Sunshine Aretef2+ *6
155Sunshine Arete Leftf3 2
156Vanguardf3+ 3
157The Bridgef4 *1
158Vanguard foot eliminatef5+ 1
159Pine Cone Wallf6A 7
160Jamie's Overhangf6A *12
161Jamie's Overhang Traversef6A+ 3
162Jamie's Overhang (Left)f6B **5
163Jamie's Overhang Sit Startf6B+ **6
164Jamie's SS Eliminatef6C *3
165Art of War directf6C 5
166The Art of Warf6C+ *11
167Monkey Hangerf7A *10
168Sanjurof7A *3
169Surprise Attackf7B *2
170Terminal Aretef6A 2
 Lower Wooded Blocs 
172Clubfootf6A 1
 Craigmore North 
174South Wallf4+ *5
175South Wall Centralf6B *4
176Tiger Wallf6B+ **4
177Entanglementf5+ *4
178The Slopesterf4+ *3
179Tiger Wall Sit Startf7A ***2

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