Climbs 168
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces NE

Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401

Crag features

Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

Approach notes

On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chimney Area 
2Chimney Arete
-
none 4c 2
3The ChimneyS 4a 19
4Polof5+ 11
5Poloverf6A+ *11
6Tanktopf5+ 5
7Silver Aretef3+ 17
8Glugf2 14
9Grooved aretef4 26
10Totemf6A *16
11Totem Left Aretef4+ 2
12Totem Sit Startf6A *2
13Totem Dynof6B+ **1
14Kit KatD 3b 43
15Leglessf6B 4
16Wide Eyed Crackf6C+ ***14
17Harmlessf6A *26
18Arrowhead Left-Hand
-
S 4b 42
19Arrowhead Eliminatef6A 9
20Arrowhead Right-Hand
-
none 3b 5
21Colin's Traversef7A+ *1
22Chimney Traversef6B *11
23Hi, Low off to Totem we gof6C *1
 Main Area 
25Harmless SS Letf6B+  
26Harmless SS Leftf6B 1
27CariadHVS 5b 3
28Magic crackHVS 5b 18
29Holly Tree CornerHS 4b 15
30Merlinf6C *7
31The BeastE2 5c 8
32Slingsby's CrystalE2 6a 3
33Jolly Green DragonE1 5c 27
34Dolly Jean Dragqueenf6C *9
35Dolly Directf6A+ **6
36Craigmore CornerHVS 5b ***111
37Tom And Jerry WallVS 5a **102
38Macmorris Arete DirectHVS 5c *1
39RampageHS 4b *108
40Curving GrooveHVS 5b 20
41Hamilton's AreteE4 6b **4
42Daylight RobberyVS 4c 6
43Basil BrushHVS 5b 4
44The NicheHS 4c *91
45CribVS 5a 16
46RampantVD 4a 46
47Grotty Groove
-
VD 4a 45
48Sunday Wall
-
VS 5b 10
49Hot DawgHVS 5c 5
 Layback Crack Area 
51Swingtimef6A+ 9
52Ragtimef7A 5
53Terror Leftf4+ 6
54Terrorf6A **27
55Terror Rightf6B **7
56Terror Sit Startf6C 7
57Terror Right SS
-
f7A 3
58Bwana
-
HVS 5b 2
59Inverlussa CrackE2 5c 1
60Spinal WallE2 6a **7
61Andy's Aretef6C+ **9
62Andy's Wallf6C *9
63Andy's Linkf7A **1
64Stand-up Routinef6B+ *4
65White HopeE1 5c 21
66Left hand Wallf6A+ 5
67Layback Crack
-
E1 5c ***55
68Layback Crack - True Finish
-
E4 6a ***16
69Layback Wall Blocf6C **3
70Lay Crack BackE5 6a *3
71Layback Traversef6B *12
72Craig's Wall
-
E7 6c *** 
73Crag Mate
-
VS 5a 6
74SalamanderHVS 5b 5
75Not Another EliminateE2 6a *3
76SamsonHVS 5b 5
77Samson blocf6B+ *6
78Samson sit leftf6A 8
79Sabre CrackVS 4c **102
80Stiletto CrackVS 4c **119
81Rapier Arete
-
E1 5b 7
82Scabbard traversef4+ 4
83Triplets Traversef5+ *2
84Triplets Low Traversef6C 2
 Blade Area 
86The Blade.f5 3
87White Streaknone 5b 1
88Preliminary ExerciseE2 5c  
89Tae a Moose Sit Startf5+  
90Tae a Moosef2+ 11
91Latch Key Kidf6C * 
92Tic Tacf4+ 5
93Bugs Bunny
-
none 3b 3
94Weasel
-
HVS 5b 5
95Stoat
-
HVS 5b *8
96Stoaterf5+ *2
97AutobahnVS 5a 24
98Autobahn Wallf6B *1
99All Hope
-
VS 5a 12
100Hendo's Sit Startf6A *1
101Hendo's Obsession
-
f5+ 1
102Elk
-
f2+ 8
103Ell
-
f3 3
104Tarantulaf5 *4
105Leech Arete Directf7A+ * 
106Leech Arete Righthandf6C+ * 
107Leech Direct
-
none 6a **11
108Leechf5+ 8
109Eelf3 3
110Coal Facenone 4b 17
111Charcoal Chimneyf3 14
112Black Beautyf4+ *21
113Black Powerf3+ 11
114Mat Blackf3 8
 Little Buttress 
116East Wallf3+ 3
117Pinnacle Wallf3+ **6
118Donald Duckf3 4
119Mickey Mousef3 4
120Pigletf3+ 3
121Pig's Earf4+ 3
122Silk Pursef4+ 2
123West Wallf4+ 2
124Extraretef4 6
125Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress)f3+ 2
126Sunshine Arete Wallf4+ 2
127Andy's Problemf6C+ 1
 Cracked Slabs 
129Tree Wallf4 4
130Left Aretef3+ 5
131Cracked SlabVD 3b 9
132Elephant Footf6A 3
133Elephant Foot Traversef6A+ 4
134The Slabf3 7
135Right Aretef3 6
136Blunt Aretef6B 4
137Cave Routef2 6
 The Wizard 
139The Wizardf6B+ ***21
140Wizard Sit Startf7A **9
141Wizard Sit Start Eliminatef7B+ * 
142Tarotf3 4
143Suzy Qf5 2
144Victory Vf4+ 1
145Victory V Sit Startf6A  
146Wopiteef6A 1
147Expof6A 1
148Two Tree wallf4+ *3
149Toadf3+ 2
150Rizlaf3 1
 Pine Tree Boulders 
152Sunburnf2+ 4
153Sunshine Aretef2+ *6
154Sunshine Arete Leftf3 2
155Vanguardf3+ 3
156The Bridgef4 *1
157Vanguard foot eliminatef5+ 1
158Pine Cone Wallf6A 7
159Jamie's Overhangf6A *10
160Jamie's Overhang Traversef6A+ 3
161Jamie's Overhang (Left)f6B **5
162Jamie's Overhang Sit Startf6B+ **6
163Jamie's SS Eliminatef6C *3
164Art of War directf6C 5
165The Art of Warf6C+ *11
166Monkey Hangerf7A *10
167Sanjurof7A *3
168Surprise Attackf7B *2
169Terminal Aretef6A 2
 Lower Wooded Blocs 
171Clubfootf6A 1
 Craigmore North 
173South Wallf4+ *4
174South Wall Centralf6B *3
175Tiger Wallf6B+ **4
176Entanglementf5+ *4
177The Slopesterf4+ *3
178Tiger Wall Sit Startf7A ***2

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