Craigmore

Climbs 161 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

Approach notes
On the Blanefield road between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall. Cross boggy fields or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine.

Guidebooks
Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 CHIMNEY AREA  
2Chimney Aretenone 4c 2
3The ChimneyS 4a 18
4Polof5+ 5b 11
5Poloverf6A+ 6a *7
6Tanktopf5+ 5c 4
7Silver Aretef3+ 4a 16
8Glugf2 3b 12
9Grooved aretef4 4c 24
10Totemf6A 5c *12
11Kit KatD 3b 41
12Leglessf6B 6a 4
13Wide Eyed Crackf6C+ 6b ***12
14Harmlessf6A 6a *23
15Arrowhead Left-HandS 4b 40
16Arrowhead Eliminatef6A 6
17Arrowhead Right-Handnone 3b 4
18Colin's Traversef7A+ *1
19Chimney Traversef6A+ *8
 MAIN AREA  
21CariadHVS 5b 3
22Magic crackHVS 5b 17
23Holly Tree CornerHS 4b 14
24Merlinf6C *6
25The BeastE2 5c 8
26Slingsby's CrystalE2 6a 3
27Jolly Green DragonE1 5c 27
28Dolly Jean Dragqueenf6C *8
29Dolly Directf6A+ **4
30Craigmore CornerHVS 5b ***106
31Tom And Jerry WallVS 5a **95
32Macmorris Arete DirectHVS 5c *1
33RampageHS 4b *103
34Curving GrooveHVS 5b 20
35Hamilton's AreteE4 6b **4
36Daylight RobberyVS 4c 5
37Basil BrushHVS 5b 4
38The NicheHS 4c *88
39CribVS 5a 16
40RampantVD 4a 42
41Grotty GrooveVD 4a 41
42Sunday WallVS 5b 10
43Hot DawgHVS 5c 5
 LAYBACK CRACK AREA  
45Swingtimef6A+ 9
46Ragtimef7A 5
47Terror Leftf4+ 4c 6
48Terrorf6A 5c **24
49Terror Rightf6B 6a **6
50Terror Sit Startf6C 6
51Terror Right SSf7A 1
52BwanaHVS 5b 2
53Inverlussa CrackE2 5c 1
54Spinal WallE2 6a **6
55Andy's Aretef6C+ **9
56Andy's Wallf6C *9
57Andy's Linkf7A **1
58Stand-up Routinef6B+ *4
59White HopeE1 5c 21
60Left hand Wallf6A+ 4
61Layback CrackE1 5c ***53
62Layback Crack - True FinishE4 6a ***14
63Layback Wall Blocf6C 6b **2
64Lay Crack BackE5 6a *3
65Layback Traversef6B *10
66Craig's WallE7 6c *** 
67Crag MateVS 5a 6
68SalamanderHVS 5b 5
69Not Another EliminateE2 6a *1
70SamsonHVS 5b 5
71Samson blocf6B+ *6
72Samson sit leftf6A 6
73Sabre CrackVS 4c **94
74Stiletto CrackVS 4c **106
75Rapier AreteE1 5b 7
76Scabbard traversef4+ 4
77Triplets Traversef5+ *2
78Triplets Low Traversef6C 2
 BLADE AREA  
80The Blade.f5 5a 2
81White Streaknone 5b 1
82Preliminary ExerciseE2 5c  
83Tae a Moose Sit Startf5+ 6a  
84Tae a Moosef2+ 3c 9
85Latch Key Kidf6C 6b * 
86Tic Tacf4+ 5a 3
87Bugs Bunnynone 3b 2
88WeaselHVS 5b 4
89StoatHVS 5b *6
90Stoaterf5+ *2
91AutobahnVS 5a 22
92Autobahn Wallf6B *1
93All HopeVS 5a 11
94Hendo's Sit Startf6A *1
95Hendo's Obsessionf5+ 5c 1
96Elkf2+ 3a 7
97Ellf3 4a 3
98Tarantulaf5 5b *3
99Leech Arete Directf7A+ 6c * 
100Leech Arete Righthandf6C+ 6b * 
101Leech Directnone 6a **11
102Leechf5+ 5b 6
103Eelf3 4b 2
104Coal Facenone 4b 16
105Charcoal Chimneyf3 4a 12
106Black Beautyf4+ 5a *18
107Black Powerf3+ 4c 11
108Mat Blackf3 3c 8
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
110East Wallf3+ 4c 3
111Pinnacle Wallf3+ 4c **6
112Donald Duckf3 4a 4
113Mickey Mousef3 4b 4
114Pigletf3+ 4c 3
115Pig's Earf4+ 5a 3
116Silk Pursef4+ 5b 2
117West Wallf4+ 5b 2
118Extraretef4 5a 6
119Sunshine Arete (Small Buttress)f3+ 4a 2
120Sunshine Arete Wallf4+ 5a 2
121Andy's Problemf6C+ 6b 1
 CRACKED SLABS  
123Tree Wallf4 5a 3
124Left Aretef3+ 4b 5
125Cracked SlabVD 3b 8
126Elephant Footf6A 5c 3
127Elephant Foot Traversef6A+ 6a 3
128The Slabf3 4a 6
129Right Aretef3 4a 6
130Blunt Aretef6B 6a 3
131Cave Routef2 3a 6
 THE WIZARD  
133The Wizardf6B+ ***21
134Wizard Sit Startf7A **7
135Wizard Sit Start Eliminatef7B+ * 
136Tarotf3 3b 4
137Suzy Qf5 5b 2
138Victory Vf4+ 4c 1
139Victory V Sit Startf6A 6a  
140Wopiteef6A 5b 1
141Expof6A 5b 1
142Two Tree wallf4+ 4c *3
143Toadf3+ 4c 2
144Rizlaf3 3a 1
 PINE TREE BOULDERS  
146Sunburnf2+ 3
147Sunshine Aretef2+ *5
148Sunshine Arete Leftf3 1
149Vanguardf3+ 3
150The Bridgef4 *1
151Vanguard foot eliminatef5+ 1
152Pine Cone Wallf6A 5
153Jamie's Overhangf6A *10
154Jamie's Overhang Traversef6A+ 3
155Jamie's Overhang (Left)f6B **4
156Jamie's Overhang Sit Startf6B+ **5
157Jamie's SS Eliminatef6C *3
158Art of War directf6C 4
159The Art of Warf6C+ *10
160Monkey Hangerf7A *9
161Sanjurof7A *3
162Surprise Attackf7B *2
163Terminal Aretef6A 2
 CRAIGMORE NORTH  
165South Wallf4+ *3
166South Wall Centralf6B *3
167Tiger Wallf6B+ **3
168Entanglementf5+ *3
169The Slopesterf4+ *3
170Tiger Wall Sit Startf7A ***1
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There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
Kevin Woods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
Kevin Woods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08