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These details were last updated on 28/Jan/2014

Barberine Gietroz

Valais West, SWITZERLAND

Climbs 220 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1300m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. (Most people coming from the Chamonix direction don't even realise they've crossed the border...) It features numerous good multi pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.

When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only.) Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.

NOTES:

1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.

2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a 'rockfall', caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected. At the moment, (18.10.09.), only the last two routes on the data base are waiting for their re-equipment. I have yet to re-climb the last three...

3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)

Guidebooks
Les Aiguilles Rouges vol 2 (2012), Barberine Gietroz - les classiques et les nouveaux spots (2006), Crag Climbs in Chamonix (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 PASSET DU HAUT (SE)  
2Variant6c  
3Sue-Ellen6b ** 
4Dallas6c+ ***1
5JR6a ***1
6Saga6a+ *** 
7Clayton6a+ ** 
8Bobby5+ *1
9Pam5+ 1
 PASSET DU BAS GAUCHE (SE) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO)  
111 W face6c ** 
122 W face6a+  
133 W face6a+  
144 W face6b+  
155 W face6c  
166 W face7b * 
177 W face7a * 
188 SE face6c ** 
199 SE face6a 1
2010 SE face6c ** 
2111 SE face6b **1
2212 SE face6c+ ** 
2313 SE face6c ** 
2414 SE face6b ** 
2515 SE face5 ** 
 PASSET DU BAS - MUR DU LOUP (SE)  
271' Mur du loup6c * 
281 Mur du loup6c  
292 Mur du loup6c ** 
303 Mur du loup7a ** 
314 Mur du loup7b * 
325 Mur du loup6c+ *** 
336 Mur du loup6c *** 
347 Mur du loup7a+ ** 
358 Mur du loup6c ** 
369 Mur du loup6a+ * 
 MAIN FACE (S)  
38La Sylvie Phobie6c **19
39La Barbourine6c ***7
40Mirrors on the Ceiling7a ***1
41Vipère au Pied6b ***18
42Méduse7a ***6
43Bon Voyage7a ***8
44Balade au Bout des Combes6c **4
45La Tour de Chauffe6c **1
 DALLES DU BAS (S) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO)  
471 Dalles2  
482 Dalles5+ ***8
493 Dalles6a+ ***8
504 Dalles5+ **8
515 Dalles6a *7
526 Dalles5+ 7
537 Dalles6a 7
548 Dalles6a 2
559 Dalles5+ 3
5610 Dalles6a 3
5711 Upper ledge6a *1
5812 Upper ledge6c ** 
5913 Upper ledge6b *2
6014 Upper ledge6a+ **4
6115 Far R slab6a 3
6216 Far R slab5+ 2
6317 Far R slab5 2
 LA ZONE (S)  
65Rando6b * 
66Balade...(1)6b+ ** 
67Balade...(2)6c ** 
68Le Voleur6b ***4
69Ma Bête Noire7b+ ** 
70Saloprises7c+ ** 
71Lune de Miel7a ***2
72Moonshine6b+ ***2
73Ca roule, la Boule6c+ ***1
74La Zone6b+ ***5
75Talisman7a+ ***2
76Touchstone7a+ *** 
77Les doigts de passage7b *** 
78Play it Again, Sam7a+ ***1
79Sam's Route7a ***5
80Génésis6b+ **1
81Génératrice7b ***2
82Génocide6b+ **3
83Voie de la Souche7a+ ** 
84Menhir7c ** 
85Projet (Sam's)Project  
86Voie Martin6c **1
87Apéritif6c **2
88L'Inversée6c ***1
89Fin de Saison6c ***2
90Mise en bouche6b **10
91Bullet the Blue Sky7a **3
92Des jours comme ça...6c+ **1
93Les doigts dans le nez6c+ ** 
94California Dreamin'6c+ ** 
 DOWNSTAIRS (S)  
96Hors Saison7a+ ** 
97Hors question (marked projet)7b ** 
98Hors Piste6c ** 
99Head-Banger6c ** 
100Marc's Route (marked projet)7b ** 
101Xavier's Route8a+ ** 
102B 526c+ ** 
103La Tour de Chauffe (Downstairs)6c ** 
 PYLONE (S)  
105Arielle6c  
 SECTEUR CHATELARD (SE)  
107Custom m'aide7a+ ***3
108Si le lichen ne revenait pas6c+ ***1
109Autoroute Blanche6c ***9
110Cacao Girls6a+ 7
 AFRIQUE (S)  
112Belles et Buts7a+ ** 
113Dynomight7b *** 
114Quel Festin7a ***3
115Luce-Ifer6a **8
116L'Epicondylite7a+ ** 
117Traitement de choc7b+ **1
118Psychothérapie - marked projet.8a ** 
119Physiothérapie6c+ ***3
120Colimaçon7a+ ** 
 Climb nameGradex
121Prestige7b **1
122Marée Noire6c+ ***3
123L'Epée de Damocles6c ***12
124Guillotine7a ***4
125Djibouti6c+ *2
126Découverte classique6a *4
127Black Mamba7b **1
128Découverte Directe6c ***4
129The Go-between7a * 
130Charmant Dévers6c ***2
131L'Escalator6c ** 
132N'importe quoi6b **2
133L'Anormale6b **4
134Le toit, la dalle et le surplomb.6c **3
135Dalle qui m'aille7b **1
136Dure de dalle7a+ *1
 LA GORGE (SE + N)  
138Question d'égout7a+ ** 
139Le Piège6c **2
140Mal à la gorgeProject  
141La Colombe et la Vie7a+ **1
142Mardis Gras7a+ **1
143Dimanche Noir7c *** 
144Samedi Soir (sur la terre)7c *** 
145Objectif Terre7c+ *** 
146Dreamer7b **2
147Rêve de Singe8a *** 
148Au Fil du Temps7c ***2
149Senanga7b **1
150Sortiledge6c **3
151Le Sorcier7c+ ** 
152L'Orage7a+ *1
153The Full Monty7a ***2
154Happy Birthday6b *2
155Mystique7c ** 
156In Absentia7b ***3
157La Ligne8a+ *** 
158La Petite Ligne8a *** 
159Cauchemar8b *** 
 LA GRANDE FACE (SE)  
161Serial Hiker6b+ **1
162Le Jardinier8a ** 
163Mon Jardin Secret7a+ *** 
164Goofy7a+ ***1
165Gwendoline6c+ ** 
166Petite Lune7b+ *** 
167Summer Daze7c *** 
168Fesse d'huîtres6c ***2
169Pharaon Ailé7c ** 
170Rage et désespoir7a+ ***2
171Magie Blanche7a ***1
172Pour le meilleur, pour le pire7a *** 
 SECTEUR HULOTTE (BASE OF LA GRANDE FACE) (SE)  
174Fesse d'huîtres (Hulotte)6b+ *3
175Harpie6c *1
176Ganesh6c+ ** 
177Game Over6c+ * 
178Poisson d'avril6c ** 
179Rage et désespoir (Hulotte)6c **1
180La Hulotte7a+ ** 
181Bouge de là7b ** 
182Causes Perdues6c * 
 SECTEUR SANGUINE (E +SE)  
184No Time to Waste7a ** 
185Le Mépris7a ** 
186Who's next?6c+ * 
187Sanguine7b *** 
188Sans nom6c * 
189Voie Burnier6c ** 
190Dégustation de Lichen6c+ ** 
191Gay Pied6c ** 
192Courage Blanc7b ** 
 SECTEUR LA CROIX (E)  
194Silicose6c  
195Diagonale du fou6b  
196Magnum Force8a * 
 MICRO CLIMAT (N)  
198Ombres et Lumières6c **1
199The Dark Side7a ***2
200Ténèbres6b+ **2
201A shoulder to cry on6c ***3
202Coolmax7b *** 
203Micro climax7a+ ***1
204Micro climat6c ***2
205Attention à la marche6c ***2
206Length isn't everything6c **2
207Micro crotte6a  
 FAWLTY TOWERS (W)  
209Sybil7a+ ** 
210Basil's brush job7a+ *** 
 BOUCHY (W + S + E)  
212Arêtica aesthetica7b+ *** 
213Pas de bras, pas de bloc7b ** 
214Tour de Force7a+ ***1
215Demi Tour - Aesthetica7a *** 
216Petite fleur6b+ ***1
217Le Friend Manquant7a ** 
218Check-in6c+ ***2
219Crotte Monsieur6c+ * 
220Bouchy Airlines7b+ *** 
221De la Résine et des Ailes (proj)Project  
222Pilot Error7b ** 
223Le Grand Dièdre6b+ ***1
224When the Levee Breaks6b+ ***2
225Good Vibrations7a ***2
226Arête Municipale6c ***1
227La Plage7b *** 
228Entracte6c ***1
229Entre-temps6b+ ***1
230Entre nous6b+ ** 
231La Fissure6b * 
232Le Pouce du Panda6a 1
233L'Index4 1
234Le Petit Dièdre5+ * 
235Les Temoins7a+ ***1
 UNVERIFIED ROUTES  
237Gorgeous 7b+ *** 
238Waterworld 6c * 
239Pointe d'Interrogation 6b+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Approaches vary from 15 to 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector. PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages...

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