Barberine Gietroz

Climbs 227 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1300m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. (Most people coming from the Chamonix direction don't even realise they've crossed the border...) It features numerous good multi pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.

When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only.) Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.

NOTES:

1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.

2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a 'rockfall', caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected. At the moment, (18.10.09.), only the last two routes on the data base are waiting for their re-equipment. I have yet to re-climb the last three...

3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)

Access notes
Approaches vary from 15 to 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector. PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages...

Guidebooks
Les Aiguilles Rouges vol 2 (2012), Barberine Gietroz - les classiques et les nouveaux spots (2006), Crag Climbs in Chamonix (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 PASSET DU HAUT (SE)  
2Variant6c  
3Sue-Ellen6b ** 
4Dallas6c+ ***1
5JR6a ***2
6Saga6a+ ***1
7Clayton6a+ ** 
8Bobby5c *2
9Pam5c 1
 PASSET DU BAS GAUCHE (W AND SE) (NOS REFER TO BARBERINE TOPO)  
11La traversée du dragon (1)6c **1
12La mousson (2)6a+  
13Digue, dingue, donc (3)6a+  
14Le village englouti (4)6b+ 1
15Missing? (5)6c  
16Le cheval de Troie (6)7b * 
17Le cheval à bascule (7)7a * 
18Emotion à Emosson (8)6b+ **1
19Les tendres souhaites (9)6a 1
20Bonne nuit les petits (10)6c **1
21La cigale et la fourmi (11)6a+ **2
22Le Pas Obligatoire6b **1
23Poèmes et comptines (12)6c+ **1
24Pimprenelle5a  
25La poudre de perlinpinpin (13)6c ** 
26Calins Nounours4a  
27Pin et chocolat (14)6b ** 
28Sur un petit nuage (15)5a ** 
 PASSET DU BAS - MUR DU LOUP (SE) NUMBERS REFER TO TOPO  
30A'louest rien de nouveau (1')6a *1
31Le nouveau monde (1)6c 1
32Rocky mountain (2)6c **1
33Un air de Tenessee (3)7a **1
34Mystère U (4)7b *1
35Les loups sont entrés dans Paris (5)6c+ ***1
36Lou garou (6)6c ***1
37Camaïeu (7)7a+ **1
38Couleur pastel6c  
39Sous la loupe6a  
40Rémus & Romulus7a+  
41Le petit chaperon rouge (8)6c+ **1
42P'tit loup (9)6b *1
 MAIN FACE (S)  
44La Sylvie Phobie6c **22
45La Barbourine6c ***11
46Mirrors on the Ceiling7a ***3
47Vipère au Pied6b ***25
48Méduse7a ***8
49Voie Piola6b ***1
50Bon Voyage7a ***10
51Balade au Bout des Combes6c **5
52La Tour de Chauffe6c **2
 DALLES DU BAS (S) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO)  
541 Dalles2  
552 Dalles5c ***10
563 Dalles6a+ ***12
574 Dalles5c **8
585 Dalles6a *10
596 Dalles5c 7
607 Dalles6a 7
618 Dalles6a 5
629 Dalles5c 5
6310 Dalles6a 4
6411 Upper ledge6a *2
6512 Upper ledge6c **1
6613 Upper ledge6b *3
6714 Upper ledge6a+ **5
6815 Far R slab6a 3
6916 Far R slab5c 2
7017 Far R slab5a 2
 LA ZONE (S)  
72Rando6b *3
73Balade...(1)6b+ **2
74Balade...(2)6c **3
75Le Voleur6b ***11
76Ma Bête Noire7b+ ** 
77Saloprises7c+ ** 
78Lune de Miel7a ***4
79Moonshine6b+ ***6
80Ca roule, la Boule6c+ ***3
81La Zone6b+ ***10
82Talisman7a+ ***3
83Touchstone7a+ ***1
84Les doigts de passage7b ***1
85Play it Again, Sam7a+ ***3
86Sam's Route7a ***8
87Génésis6b+ **5
88Génératrice7b ***3
89Génocide6b+ **4
90Voie de la Souche7a+ **1
91Menhir7c ** 
92Projet (Sam's)Project  
93Voie Martin6c **5
94Apéritif6c **5
95L'Inversée6c ***4
96Fin de Saison6c ***5
97Mise en bouche6b **15
98Bullet the Blue Sky7a **6
99Des jours comme ça...6c+ **3
100Les doigts dans le nez6c+ **1
101California Dreamin'6c+ **2
 DOWNSTAIRS (S)  
103Hors Saison7a+ **1
104Hors question (marked projet)7b ** 
105Hors Piste6c **1
106Head-Banger6c **1
107Marc's Route (marked projet)7b ** 
108Xavier's Route8a+ ** 
109B 526c+ **1
110La Tour de Chauffe (Downstairs)6c **1
 PYLONE UPPER (S)  
112Arielle6c 1
 SECTEUR CHATELARD (SE)  
114Custom m'aide7a+ ***4
115Si le lichen ne revenait pas6c+ ***2
116Autoroute Blanche6c ***11
117Cacao Girls6a+ 14
 AFRIQUE (S)  
119Belles et Buts7a+ **1
120Dynomight7b ***1
121Quel Festin7a ***4
122Luce-Ifer6a **14
123L'Epicondylite7a+ **1
124Traitement de choc7b+ **4
125Psychothérapie - marked projet.8a  
126Physiothérapie6c+ ***4
127Colimaçon7a+ **1
128Prestige7b **2
129Marée Noire6c+ ***4
130L'Epée de Damocles6c ***17
131Guillotine7a ***7
132Djibouti6c+ *5
133Découverte classique6a *10
134Black Mamba7b **2
135Découverte Directe6c ***8
136The Go-between7a *1
137Charmant Dévers6c ***3
138L'Escalator6c **2
139N'importe quoi6b **6
140L'Anormale6b **6
141Le toit, la dalle et le surplomb.6c **6
142Dalle qui m'aille7b **2
143Dure de dalle7a+ *2
 LA GORGE (SE + N)  
145Question d'égout7a+ **1
146Le Piège6c **3
147Mal à la gorgeProject  
148La Colombe et la Vie7a+ **2
149Mardis Gras7a+ **2
150Dimanche Noir7c ***1
151Samedi Soir (sur la terre)7c ***1
152Objectif Terre7c+ ***1
153Dreamer7b **5
154Rêve de Singe8a ***3
155Au Fil du Temps7c ***3
156Senanga7b **2
157Sortiledge6c **4
158Le Sorcier7c+ ** 
159L'Orage7a+ *2
160The Full Monty7a ***3
161Happy Birthday6b *3
162Mystique7c ** 
163In Absentia7b ***4
164La Ligne8a+ *** 
165La Petite Ligne8a *** 
166Cauchemar8b *** 
 LA GRANDE FACE (SE)  
168Serial Hiker6b+ *2
169Le Jardinier8a ** 
170Mon Jardin Secret7a+ ***3
171Goofy7a+ ***3
172Gwendoline6c+ **1
173Petite Lune7b+ ***1
174Summer Daze7c ***1
175Fesse d'huîtres6c ***3
176Pharaon Ailé7c ** 
177Rage et désespoir7a+ ***3
178Magie Blanche7a ***2
179Pour le meilleur, pour le pire7a ***1
 SECTEUR HULOTTE (BASE OF LA GRANDE FACE) (SE)  
181Fesse d'huîtres (Hulotte)6b+ *5
182Harpie6c *2
183Ganesh6c+ **1
184Game Over6c+ *2
185Poisson d'avril6c **2
186Rage et désespoir (Hulotte)6c **3
187La Hulotte7a+ **1
188Bouge de là7b **1
189Causes Perdues6c *1
 SECTEUR SANGUINE (E +SE)  
191No Time to Waste7a **1
192Le Mépris7a **1
193Who's next?6c+ *1
194Sanguine7b ***1
195Sans nom6c * 
196Voie Burnier6c **1
197Dégustation de Lichen6c+ *1
198Gay Pied6c **1
199Courage Blanc7b **1
 SECTEUR LA CROIX (E)  
201Silicose6c  
202Diagonale du fou6b 1
203Magnum Force8a * 
 MICRO CLIMAT (N)  
205Ombres et Lumières6c **2
206The Dark Side7a ***3
207Ténèbres6b+ **3
208A shoulder to cry on6c ***4
209Coolmax7b ***1
210Micro climax7a+ ***2
211Micro climat6c ***3
212Attention à la marche6c ***3
213Length isn't everything6c **3
214Micro crotte6a 1
 FAWLTY TOWERS (W)  
216Sybil7a+ **1
217Basil's brush job7a+ ***1
 BOUCHY (W + S + E)  
219Arêtica aesthetica7b+ ***1
220Pas de bras, pas de bloc7b **1
221Tour de Force7a+ ***2
222Demi Tour - Aesthetica7a ***1
223Petite fleur6b+ ***2
224Le Friend Manquant7a **1
225Check-in6c+ ***3
226Crotte Monsieur6c+ *1
227Bouchy Airlines7b+ ***1
228De la Résine et des Ailes (proj)Project  
229Pilot Error7b ** 
230Le Grand Dièdre6b+ ***2
231When the Levee Breaks6b+ ***3
232Good Vibrations7a ***3
233Arête Municipale6c ***2
234La Plage7b ***1
 AVOID THE NEXT 11 ROUTES. THE GORGE IS EXPOSED TO FLASH FLOODING  
236Entracte6c ***2
237Entre-temps6b+ ***2
238Entre nous6b+ **1
239La Fissure6b *1
240Le Pouce du Panda6a 2
241L'Index4a 2
242Le Petit Dièdre5c *1
243Les Temoins7a+ ***2
244Gorgeous7b+ ***1
245 Waterworld6c 1
246 Pointe d'Interrogation6b+ 2
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