Climbs 242
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1300m a.s.l
Faces all

Ben Potard, Au Fil du Temps, Giétroz Gorge © jon

Crag features

Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. (Most people coming from the Chamonix direction don't even realise they've crossed the border...) It features numerous good multi pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.
When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only.) Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.
NOTES:
1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.
2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a 'rockfall', caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected. At the moment, (18.10.09.), only the last two routes on the data base are waiting for their re-equipment. I have yet to re-climb the last three...
3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)

Approach notes

Approaches vary from 15 to 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) Châtelard (CH) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector. PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages...

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Guidebooks

Chamonix

A single publication from Rockfax with hundreds of routes ranging from short sport ticks to the best multi-day adventures. It is illustrated with some amazing photo-topos, superb maps and with excellent detailed descriptions.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 PASSET DU HAUT (SE) 
2Variant6c  
3Sue-Ellen6b ** 
4Dallas
-
6c+ ***1
5JR
-
6a ***2
6Saga6a+ ***1
7Clayton
-
6a+ ** 
8Bobby
-
5c *2
9Pam
-
5c 2
 passet du bas gauche (W and SE) (nos refer to Barberine topo) 
11La traversée du dragon (1)6c **1
12La mousson (2)
-
6a+ 1
13Digue, dingue, donc (3)
-
6a+  
14Le village englouti (4)
-
6b+ 2
15Missing? (5)6c  
16Le cheval de Troie (6)7b * 
17Le cheval à bascule (7)7a * 
18Emotion à Emosson (8)
-
6b+ **1
19Les tendres souhaites (9)
-
6a 1
20Bonne nuit les petits (10)6c **2
21La cigale et la fourmi (11)6a+ **3
22Le Pas Obligatoire6b **2
23Poèmes et comptines (12)6c+ **1
24Pimprenelle
-
5a  
25La poudre de perlinpinpin (13)6c ** 
26Calins Nounours
-
4a  
27Pin et chocolat (14)6b ** 
28Sur un petit nuage (15)
-
5a **1
 PASSET DU BAS - MUR DU LOUP (SE) numbers refer to topo 
30A'louest rien de nouveau (1')6a *1
31Le nouveau monde (1)6c 1
32Rocky mountain (2)6c **1
33Un air de Tenessee (3)7a **1
34Mystère U (4)7b *1
35Les loups sont entrés dans Paris (5)6c+ ***1
36Lou garou (6)6c ***1
37Camaïeu (7)7a+ **1
38Couleur pastel
-
6c  
39Sous la loupe
-
6a 1
40Rémus & Romulus
-
7a+  
41Le petit chaperon rouge (8)6c+ **1
42P'tit loup (9)6b *1
 Main Face (S) 
44La Sylvie Phobie6c+ **36
45La Barbourine6c+ ***17
46Mirrors on the Ceiling7a ***3
47Vipère au Pied6b+ **44
48Méduse7a **11
49Le Fantôme de l'Opéra6a+ *1
50Le Magicien d'Oz (voie Piola)6b **11
51Bon Voyage7a **13
52Balade au Bout des Combes6c **6
53La Tour de Chauffe6c **2
 DALLES DU BAS (S) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO) 
551 Dalles2  
56Macaroni5b *11
57Lefurer6a+ **14
58Befa6a * 
59Le chef du live5c 9
60Artho5c *10
61Pâté cornichons5c 7
62Nazzareth5b 5
63Fabrer5c **5
64JJain6a *7
65La Routadam6a *5
6611 Upper ledge6a *2
6712 Upper ledge6c **1
6813 Upper ledge6b *3
6914 Upper ledge6a+ **5
7015 Far R slab6a 3
7116 Far R slab5c 2
7217 Far R slab5a 2
 LA ZONE (S) 
74Rando6b **9
75Balade...(1)6b+ **7
76Balade...(2)6c **10
77Le Voleur6b **19
78Ma Bête Noire7b+ **1
79Saloprises7c+ **1
80Lune de Miel7a ***8
81Moonshine6b+ ***13
82Ca roule, la Boule6c+ ***5
83La Zone6b+ ***19
84Talisman7a+ **3
85Touchstone7a+ **1
86Les doigts de passage7b ***1
87Play it Again, Sam7a+ ***4
88Sam's Route7a ***19
89Génésis6b+ **10
90Génératrice7b ***3
91Génocide6b+ **4
92Voie de la Souche7a+ **1
93Menhir7c ** 
94Projet (Sam's)Project 2
95Voie Martin6b+ **10
96Apéritif6c **11
97L'Inversée6c+ ***7
98Fin de Saison6c ***9
99Mise en bouche6b ***22
100Bullet the Blue Sky7a **6
101Des jours comme ça...6c+ **3
102Les doigts dans le nez6c+ **1
103California Dreamin'6c+ **2
 DOWNSTAIRS (S) 
105Hors Saison7a+ **1
106Hors question (marked projet)7b ** 
107Hors Piste6c **1
108Head-Banger6c **1
109Marc's Route (marked projet)7b ** 
110Xavier's Route8a+ ** 
111B 526c+ **1
112La Tour de Chauffe (Downstairs)6c **1
 PYLONE upper (S) 
114Arielle6c 1
 PYLONE lower (SE) 
116Fine Line
-
6c ***6
117Les golots du douanier
-
7a **2
118Banane directe
-
6b *6
119Banane
-
6a **7
120Les Sudistes
-
6b+ *3
121On va ramollir
-
6b+ *4
122La belle Zig
-
5c ***5
123Ca va pas plus vite...
-
6a+ ***5
124Honey Badger
-
6c ***5
125Le vent des câbles
-
6c ***4
126The ego has landed
-
7a+ *1
127Le contrebandier
-
6b+ **2
 SECTEUR CHATELARD (SE) 
129Custom m'aide7a+ ***4
130Si le lichen ne revenait pas6c+ ***2
131Autoroute Blanche6c ***24
132Cacao Girls6a+ 34
 AFRIQUE (S) 
134Belles et Buts7a+ **1
135Dynomight7b ***2
136Quel Festin7a ***6
137Luce-Ifer6a **15
138L'Epicondylite7a+ **1
139Traitement de choc7b+ **4
140Psychothérapie - marked projet.8a  
141Physiothérapie6c+ ***7
142Colimaçon7a+ **3
143Prestige7b **3
144Marée Noire6c+ ***5
145L'Epée de Damocles6c ***19
146Guillotine7a ***11
147Djibouti6c+ *6
148Découverte classique6a *13
149Black Mamba7b **2
150Découverte Directe6c ***8
151The Go-between7a *1
152Charmant Dévers6c ***3
153L'Escalator6c **3
154N'importe quoi
-
6b **9
155L'Anormale6b **10
156Le toit, la dalle et le surplomb.6c **8
157Dalle qui m'aille7b **2
158Dure de dalle7a+ *2
 LA GORGE (SE + N) 
160Question d'égout7a+ **1
161Le Piège6c **4
162Mal à la gorge6c+  
163La Colombe et la Vie7a+ **2
164Mardis Gras7a+ **2
165Dimanche Noir7c ***2
166Samedi Soir (sur la terre)7c ***2
167Objectif Terre7c+ ***1
168Dreamer7b **6
169Rêve de Singe8a ***4
170Au Fil du Temps7c ***4
171Senanga7b **2
172Sortiledge6c **5
173Le Sorcier7c+ ** 
174L'Orage7a+ *2
175The Full Monty7a ***4
176Happy Birthday6b *3
177Mystique7c **1
178In Absentia7b ***7
179La Ligne8a+ *** 
180La Petite Ligne8a ***1
181Cauchemar8b *** 
 LA GRANDE FACE (SE) 
183Serial Hiker6b+ *2
184Le Jardinier8a ** 
185Mon Jardin Secret7a+ ***3
186Goofy7a+ ***4
187Gwendoline6c+ **1
188Petite Lune7b+ ***1
189Summer Daze7c ***1
190Fesse d'huîtres6c ***3
191Pharaon Ailé7c ** 
192Rage et désespoir7a+ ***3
193Magie Blanche7a ***2
194Pour le meilleur, pour le pire7a ***1
 SECTEUR HULOTTE (BASE OF LA GRANDE FACE) (SE) 
196Fesse d'huîtres (Hulotte)6b+ *5
197Harpie6c *2
198Ganesh6c+ **1
199Game Over6c+ *2
200Poisson d'avril6c **2
201Rage et désespoir (Hulotte)6c **3
202La Hulotte7a+ **1
203Bouge de là7b **1
204Causes Perdues6c *1
 SECTEUR SANGUINE (E +SE) 
206No Time to Waste7a **1
207Le Mépris7a **1
208Who's next?6c+ *1
209Sanguine7b ***1
210Sans nom
-
6c * 
211Voie Burnier6c **1
212Dégustation de Lichen6c+ *1
213Gay Pied6c **1
214Courage Blanc7b **1
 SECTEUR LA CROIX (E) 
216Silicose6c  
217Diagonale du fou6b 1
218Magnum Force8a * 
 MICRO CLIMAT (N) 
220Ombres et Lumières6c **2
221The Dark Side7a ***3
222Ténèbres6b+ **4
223A shoulder to cry on6c ***4
224Coolmax7b ***1
225Micro climax7a+ ***2
226Micro climat6c ***4
227Attention à la marche6c ***3
228Length isn't everything6c **3
229Micro crotte6a 1
 FAWLTY TOWERS (W) 
231Sybil7a+ **1
232Basil's brush job7a+ ***1
 BOUCHY (W + S + E) 
234Arêtica aesthetica7b+ ***1
235Pas de bras, pas de bloc7b **1
236Tour de Force7a+ ***2
237Demi-Tour6c+ **2
238Demi-Tour/Aesthetica7a ***1
239Petite fleur6b+ ***2
240Le Friend Manquant7a **1
241Check-in6c+ ***3
242Crotte Monsieur6c+ *1
243Bouchy Airlines7b+ ***1
244De la Résine et des Ailes (proj)Project  
245Pilot Error7b ** 
246Le Grand Dièdre6b+ ***2
247When the Levee Breaks6b+ ***3
248Good Vibrations7a ***4
249Arête Municipale6c ***2
250La Plage7b ***1
 Avoid the next 11 routes. The gorge is exposed to flash flooding 
252Entracte6c ***2
253Entre-temps6b+ ***2
254Entre nous6b+ **1
255La Fissure6b *1
256Le Pouce du Panda6a 2
257L'Index4a 3
258Le Petit Dièdre5c *1
259Les Temoins7a+ ***2
260Gorgeous7b+ ***1
261Waterworld6c 1
262Pointe d'Interrogation6b+ 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jon