Climbs 241
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1300m a.s.l
Faces all

Ben Potard, Au Fil du Temps, Giétroz Gorge © jon

Crag features

Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. (Most people coming from the Chamonix direction don't even realise they've crossed the border...) It features numerous good multi pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.
When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only.) Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.
NOTES:
1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.
2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a 'rockfall', caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected. At the moment, (18.10.09.), only the last two routes on the data base are waiting for their re-equipment. I have yet to re-climb the last three...
3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)

Approach notes

Approaches vary from 15 to 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) Châtelard (CH) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector. PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages...

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Guidebooks

Chamonix

A single publication from Rockfax with hundreds of routes ranging from short sport ticks to the best multi-day adventures. It is illustrated with some amazing photo-topos, superb maps and with excellent detailed descriptions.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 PASSET DU HAUT (SE) 
2Variant6c  
3Sue-Ellen6b ** 
4Dallas
-
6c+ ***1
5JR
-
6a ***2
6Saga6a+ ***1
7Clayton
-
6a+ ** 
8Bobby
-
5c *2
9Pam
-
5c 2
 passet du bas gauche (W and SE) (nos refer to Barberine topo) 
11La traversée du dragon (1)6c **1
12La mousson (2)
-
6a+ 1
13Digue, dingue, donc (3)
-
6a+  
14Le village englouti (4)
-
6b+ 2
15Missing? (5)6c  
16Le cheval de Troie (6)7b * 
17Le cheval à bascule (7)7a * 
18Emotion à Emosson (8)
-
6b+ **1
19Les tendres souhaites (9)
-
6a 1
20Bonne nuit les petits (10)6c **2
21La cigale et la fourmi (11)6a+ **3
22Le Pas Obligatoire6b **2
23Poèmes et comptines (12)6c+ **1
24Pimprenelle
-
5a  
25La poudre de perlinpinpin (13)6c ** 
26Calins Nounours
-
4a  
27Pin et chocolat (14)6b ** 
28Sur un petit nuage (15)
-
5a **1
 PASSET DU BAS - MUR DU LOUP (SE) numbers refer to topo 
30A'louest rien de nouveau (1')6a *1
31Le nouveau monde (1)6c 1
32Rocky mountain (2)6c **1
33Un air de Tenessee (3)7a **1
34Mystère U (4)7b *1
35Les loups sont entrés dans Paris (5)6c+ ***1
36Lou garou (6)6c ***1
37Camaïeu (7)7a+ **1
38Couleur pastel
-
6c  
39Sous la loupe
-
6a 1
40Rémus & Romulus
-
7a+  
41Le petit chaperon rouge (8)6c+ **1
42P'tit loup (9)6b *1
 Main Face (S) 
44La Sylvie Phobie6c+ **36
45La Barbourine6c+ ***17
46Mirrors on the Ceiling7a ***3
47Vipère au Pied6b+ **44
48Méduse7a **11
49Voie Piola6b **8
50Bon Voyage7a **12
51Balade au Bout des Combes6c **6
52La Tour de Chauffe6c **2
 DALLES DU BAS (S) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO) 
541 Dalles2  
55Macaroni5b *11
56Lefurer6a+ **14
57Befa6a * 
58Le chef du live5c 9
59Artho5c *10
60Pâté cornichons5c 7
61Nazzareth5b 5
62Fabrer5c **5
63JJain6a *7
64La Routadam6a *5
6511 Upper ledge6a *2
6612 Upper ledge6c **1
6713 Upper ledge6b *3
6814 Upper ledge6a+ **5
6915 Far R slab6a 3
7016 Far R slab5c 2
7117 Far R slab5a 2
 LA ZONE (S) 
73Rando6b **9
74Balade...(1)6b+ **7
75Balade...(2)6c **10
76Le Voleur6b **19
77Ma Bête Noire7b+ **1
78Saloprises7c+ **1
79Lune de Miel7a ***8
80Moonshine6b+ ***13
81Ca roule, la Boule6c+ ***5
82La Zone6b+ ***19
83Talisman7a+ **3
84Touchstone7a+ **1
85Les doigts de passage7b ***1
86Play it Again, Sam7a+ ***4
87Sam's Route7a ***19
88Génésis6b+ **10
89Génératrice7b ***3
90Génocide6b+ **4
91Voie de la Souche7a+ **1
92Menhir7c ** 
93Projet (Sam's)Project 2
94Voie Martin6b+ **10
95Apéritif6c **11
96L'Inversée6c+ ***7
97Fin de Saison6c ***9
98Mise en bouche6b ***22
99Bullet the Blue Sky7a **6
100Des jours comme ça...6c+ **3
101Les doigts dans le nez6c+ **1
102California Dreamin'6c+ **2
 DOWNSTAIRS (S) 
104Hors Saison7a+ **1
105Hors question (marked projet)7b ** 
106Hors Piste6c **1
107Head-Banger6c **1
108Marc's Route (marked projet)7b ** 
109Xavier's Route8a+ ** 
110B 526c+ **1
111La Tour de Chauffe (Downstairs)6c **1
 PYLONE upper (S) 
113Arielle6c 1
 PYLONE lower (SE) 
115Fine Line
-
6c ***6
116Les golots du douanier
-
7a **2
117Banane directe
-
6b *6
118Banane
-
6a **7
119Les Sudistes
-
6b+ *3
120On va ramollir
-
6b+ *4
121La belle Zig
-
5c ***5
122Ca va pas plus vite...
-
6a+ ***5
123Honey Badger
-
6c ***5
124Le vent des câbles
-
6c ***4
125The ego has landed
-
7a+ *1
126Le contrebandier
-
6b+ **2
 SECTEUR CHATELARD (SE) 
128Custom m'aide7a+ ***4
129Si le lichen ne revenait pas6c+ ***2
130Autoroute Blanche6c ***23
131Cacao Girls6a+ 33
 AFRIQUE (S) 
133Belles et Buts7a+ **1
134Dynomight7b ***2
135Quel Festin7a ***6
136Luce-Ifer6a **15
137L'Epicondylite7a+ **1
138Traitement de choc7b+ **4
139Psychothérapie - marked projet.8a  
140Physiothérapie6c+ ***7
141Colimaçon7a+ **3
142Prestige7b **3
143Marée Noire6c+ ***5
144L'Epée de Damocles6c ***19
145Guillotine7a ***11
146Djibouti6c+ *6
147Découverte classique6a *13
148Black Mamba7b **2
149Découverte Directe6c ***8
150The Go-between7a *1
151Charmant Dévers6c ***3
152L'Escalator6c **3
153N'importe quoi
-
6b **9
154L'Anormale6b **10
155Le toit, la dalle et le surplomb.6c **8
156Dalle qui m'aille7b **2
157Dure de dalle7a+ *2
 LA GORGE (SE + N) 
159Question d'égout7a+ **1
160Le Piège6c **4
161Mal à la gorge6c+  
162La Colombe et la Vie7a+ **2
163Mardis Gras7a+ **2
164Dimanche Noir7c ***2
165Samedi Soir (sur la terre)7c ***2
166Objectif Terre7c+ ***1
167Dreamer7b **6
168Rêve de Singe8a ***4
169Au Fil du Temps7c ***4
170Senanga7b **2
171Sortiledge6c **5
172Le Sorcier7c+ ** 
173L'Orage7a+ *2
174The Full Monty7a ***4
175Happy Birthday6b *3
176Mystique7c **1
177In Absentia7b ***7
178La Ligne8a+ *** 
179La Petite Ligne8a ***1
180Cauchemar8b *** 
 LA GRANDE FACE (SE) 
182Serial Hiker6b+ *2
183Le Jardinier8a ** 
184Mon Jardin Secret7a+ ***3
185Goofy7a+ ***4
186Gwendoline6c+ **1
187Petite Lune7b+ ***1
188Summer Daze7c ***1
189Fesse d'huîtres6c ***3
190Pharaon Ailé7c ** 
191Rage et désespoir7a+ ***3
192Magie Blanche7a ***2
193Pour le meilleur, pour le pire7a ***1
 SECTEUR HULOTTE (BASE OF LA GRANDE FACE) (SE) 
195Fesse d'huîtres (Hulotte)6b+ *5
196Harpie6c *2
197Ganesh6c+ **1
198Game Over6c+ *2
199Poisson d'avril6c **2
200Rage et désespoir (Hulotte)6c **3
201La Hulotte7a+ **1
202Bouge de là7b **1
203Causes Perdues6c *1
 SECTEUR SANGUINE (E +SE) 
205No Time to Waste7a **1
206Le Mépris7a **1
207Who's next?6c+ *1
208Sanguine7b ***1
209Sans nom
-
6c * 
210Voie Burnier6c **1
211Dégustation de Lichen6c+ *1
212Gay Pied6c **1
213Courage Blanc7b **1
 SECTEUR LA CROIX (E) 
215Silicose6c  
216Diagonale du fou6b 1
217Magnum Force8a * 
 MICRO CLIMAT (N) 
219Ombres et Lumières6c **2
220The Dark Side7a ***3
221Ténèbres6b+ **4
222A shoulder to cry on6c ***4
223Coolmax7b ***1
224Micro climax7a+ ***2
225Micro climat6c ***4
226Attention à la marche6c ***3
227Length isn't everything6c **3
228Micro crotte6a 1
 FAWLTY TOWERS (W) 
230Sybil7a+ **1
231Basil's brush job7a+ ***1
 BOUCHY (W + S + E) 
233Arêtica aesthetica7b+ ***1
234Pas de bras, pas de bloc7b **1
235Tour de Force7a+ ***2
236Demi-Tour6c+ **2
237Demi-Tour/Aesthetica7a ***1
238Petite fleur6b+ ***2
239Le Friend Manquant7a **1
240Check-in6c+ ***3
241Crotte Monsieur6c+ *1
242Bouchy Airlines7b+ ***1
243De la Résine et des Ailes (proj)Project  
244Pilot Error7b ** 
245Le Grand Dièdre6b+ ***2
246When the Levee Breaks6b+ ***3
247Good Vibrations7a ***4
248Arête Municipale6c ***2
249La Plage7b ***1
 Avoid the next 11 routes. The gorge is exposed to flash flooding 
251Entracte6c ***2
252Entre-temps6b+ ***2
253Entre nous6b+ **1
254La Fissure6b *1
255Le Pouce du Panda6a 2
256L'Index4a 3
257Le Petit Dièdre5c *1
258Les Temoins7a+ ***2
259Gorgeous7b+ ***1
260Waterworld6c 1
261Pointe d'Interrogation6b+ 2

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