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These details were last updated on 28/Jan/2014

Barberine Gietroz

Valais West, SWITZERLAND

Climbs 225 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1300m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. (Most people coming from the Chamonix direction don't even realise they've crossed the border...) It features numerous good multi pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.

When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only.) Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.

NOTES:

1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.

2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a 'rockfall', caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected. At the moment, (18.10.09.), only the last two routes on the data base are waiting for their re-equipment. I have yet to re-climb the last three...

3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)

Access notes
Approaches vary from 15 to 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector. PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages...

Guidebooks
Les Aiguilles Rouges vol 2 (2012), Barberine Gietroz - les classiques et les nouveaux spots (2006), Crag Climbs in Chamonix (2005)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 PASSET DU HAUT (SE)  
2Variant6c  
3Sue-Ellen6b ** 
4Dallas6c+ ***1
5JR6a ***2
6Saga6a+ ***1
7Clayton6a+ ** 
8Bobby5c *2
9Pam5c 1
 PASSET DU BAS GAUCHE (W AND SE) (NOS REFER TO BARBERINE TOPO)  
11La traversée du dragon (1)6c **1
12La mousson (2)6a+  
13Digue, dingue, donc (3)6a+  
14Le village englouti (4)6b+ 1
15Missing? (5)6c  
16Le cheval de Troie (6)7b * 
17Le cheval à bascule (7)7a * 
18Emotion à Emosson (8)6b+ **1
19Les tendres souhaites (9)6a 1
20Bonne nuit les petits (10)6c **1
21La cigale et la fourmi (11)6a+ **2
22Poèmes et comptines (12)6c+ **1
23Pimprenelle5a  
24La poudre de perlinpinpin (13)6c ** 
25Calins Nounours4a  
26Pin et chocolat (14)6b ** 
27Sur un petit nuage (15)5a ** 
 PASSET DU BAS - MUR DU LOUP (SE) NUMBERS REFER TO TOPO  
29A'louest rien de nouveau (1')6a *1
30Le nouveau monde (1)6c 1
31Rocky mountain (2)6c **1
32Un air de Tenessee (3)7a **1
33Mystère U (4)7b *1
34Les loups sont entrés dans Paris (5)6c+ ***1
35Lou garou (6)6c ***1
36Camaïeu (7)7a+ **1
37Couleur pastel6c  
38Sous la loupe6a  
39Rémus & Romulus7a+  
40Le petit chaperon rouge (8)6c+ **1
41P'tit loup (9)6b *1
 MAIN FACE (S)  
43La Sylvie Phobie6c **21
44La Barbourine6c ***9
45Mirrors on the Ceiling7a ***2
46Vipère au Pied6b ***21
47Méduse7a ***7
48Bon Voyage7a ***9
49Balade au Bout des Combes6c **5
50La Tour de Chauffe6c **2
 DALLES DU BAS (S) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO)  
521 Dalles2  
532 Dalles5c ***9
543 Dalles6a+ ***11
554 Dalles5c **8
565 Dalles6a *10
576 Dalles5c 7
587 Dalles6a 7
598 Dalles6a 5
609 Dalles5c 5
6110 Dalles6a 4
6211 Upper ledge6a *2
6312 Upper ledge6c **1
6413 Upper ledge6b *3
6514 Upper ledge6a+ **5
6615 Far R slab6a 3
6716 Far R slab5c 2
6817 Far R slab5a 2
 LA ZONE (S)  
70Rando6b *3
71Balade...(1)6b+ **2
72Balade...(2)6c **3
73Le Voleur6b ***8
74Ma Bête Noire7b+ ** 
75Saloprises7c+ ** 
76Lune de Miel7a ***3
77Moonshine6b+ ***4
78Ca roule, la Boule6c+ ***2
79La Zone6b+ ***8
80Talisman7a+ ***3
81Touchstone7a+ ***1
82Les doigts de passage7b ***1
83Play it Again, Sam7a+ ***3
84Sam's Route7a ***8
85Génésis6b+ **3
86Génératrice7b ***3
87Génocide6b+ **4
88Voie de la Souche7a+ **1
89Menhir7c ** 
90Projet (Sam's)Project  
91Voie Martin6c **3
92Apéritif6c **5
93L'Inversée6c ***4
94Fin de Saison6c ***5
95Mise en bouche6b **14
96Bullet the Blue Sky7a **5
97Des jours comme ça...6c+ **2
98Les doigts dans le nez6c+ **1
99California Dreamin'6c+ **1
 DOWNSTAIRS (S)  
101Hors Saison7a+ **1
102Hors question (marked projet)7b ** 
103Hors Piste6c **1
104Head-Banger6c **1
105Marc's Route (marked projet)7b ** 
106Xavier's Route8a+ ** 
107B 526c+ **1
108La Tour de Chauffe (Downstairs)6c **1
 PYLONE UPPER (S)  
110Arielle6c 1
 SECTEUR CHATELARD (SE)  
112Custom m'aide7a+ ***4
113Si le lichen ne revenait pas6c+ ***2
114Autoroute Blanche6c ***10
115Cacao Girls6a+ 10
 AFRIQUE (S)  
117Belles et Buts7a+ **1
118Dynomight7b ***1
119Quel Festin7a ***4
120Luce-Ifer6a **11
121L'Epicondylite7a+ **1
122Traitement de choc7b+ **2
 Climb nameGradex
123Psychothérapie - marked projet.8a ** 
124Physiothérapie6c+ ***4
125Colimaçon7a+ **1
126Prestige7b **2
127Marée Noire6c+ ***4
128L'Epée de Damocles6c ***15
129Guillotine7a ***6
130Djibouti6c+ *3
131Découverte classique6a *8
132Black Mamba7b **2
133Découverte Directe6c ***5
134The Go-between7a *1
135Charmant Dévers6c ***3
136L'Escalator6c **1
137N'importe quoi6b **4
138L'Anormale6b **5
139Le toit, la dalle et le surplomb.6c **6
140Dalle qui m'aille7b **2
141Dure de dalle7a+ *2
 LA GORGE (SE + N)  
143Question d'égout7a+ **1
144Le Piège6c **3
145Mal à la gorgeProject  
146La Colombe et la Vie7a+ **2
147Mardis Gras7a+ **2
148Dimanche Noir7c ***1
149Samedi Soir (sur la terre)7c ***1
150Objectif Terre7c+ ***1
151Dreamer7b **5
152Rêve de Singe8a ***3
153Au Fil du Temps7c ***3
154Senanga7b **2
155Sortiledge6c **4
156Le Sorcier7c+ ** 
157L'Orage7a+ *2
158The Full Monty7a ***3
159Happy Birthday6b *3
160Mystique7c ** 
161In Absentia7b ***4
162La Ligne8a+ *** 
163La Petite Ligne8a *** 
164Cauchemar8b *** 
 LA GRANDE FACE (SE)  
166Serial Hiker6b+ *2
167Le Jardinier8a ** 
168Mon Jardin Secret7a+ ***1
169Goofy7a+ ***2
170Gwendoline6c+ **1
171Petite Lune7b+ ***1
172Summer Daze7c ***1
173Fesse d'huîtres6c ***3
174Pharaon Ailé7c ** 
175Rage et désespoir7a+ ***3
176Magie Blanche7a ***2
177Pour le meilleur, pour le pire7a ***1
 SECTEUR HULOTTE (BASE OF LA GRANDE FACE) (SE)  
179Fesse d'huîtres (Hulotte)6b+ *5
180Harpie6c *2
181Ganesh6c+ **1
182Game Over6c+ *2
183Poisson d'avril6c **2
184Rage et désespoir (Hulotte)6c **3
185La Hulotte7a+ **1
186Bouge de là7b **1
187Causes Perdues6c *1
 SECTEUR SANGUINE (E +SE)  
189No Time to Waste7a **1
190Le Mépris7a **1
191Who's next?6c+ *1
192Sanguine7b ***1
193Sans nom6c * 
194Voie Burnier6c **1
195Dégustation de Lichen6c+ *1
196Gay Pied6c **1
197Courage Blanc7b **1
 SECTEUR LA CROIX (E)  
199Silicose6c  
200Diagonale du fou6b 1
201Magnum Force8a * 
 MICRO CLIMAT (N)  
203Ombres et Lumières6c **2
204The Dark Side7a ***3
205Ténèbres6b+ **3
206A shoulder to cry on6c ***4
207Coolmax7b ***1
208Micro climax7a+ ***2
209Micro climat6c ***3
210Attention à la marche6c ***3
211Length isn't everything6c **3
212Micro crotte6a 1
 FAWLTY TOWERS (W)  
214Sybil7a+ **1
215Basil's brush job7a+ ***1
 BOUCHY (W + S + E)  
217Arêtica aesthetica7b+ ***1
218Pas de bras, pas de bloc7b **1
219Tour de Force7a+ ***2
220Demi Tour - Aesthetica7a ***1
221Petite fleur6b+ ***2
222Le Friend Manquant7a **1
223Check-in6c+ ***3
224Crotte Monsieur6c+ *1
225Bouchy Airlines7b+ ***1
226De la Résine et des Ailes (proj)Project  
227Pilot Error7b ** 
228Le Grand Dièdre6b+ ***2
229When the Levee Breaks6b+ ***3
230Good Vibrations7a ***3
231Arête Municipale6c ***2
232La Plage7b ***1
233Entracte6c ***2
234Entre-temps6b+ ***2
235Entre nous6b+ **1
236La Fissure6b *1
237Le Pouce du Panda6a 2
238L'Index4a 2
239Le Petit Dièdre5c *1
240Les Temoins7a+ ***2
 UNVERIFIED ROUTES  
242Gorgeous 7b+ ***1
243Waterworld 6c *1
244Pointe d'Interrogation 6b+ *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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