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These details were last updated on 28/Jan/2014

Barberine Gietroz

Valais West, SWITZERLAND

Climbs 226 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1300m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Not so much a crag as a minature massif situated just 100m into Switzerland from the Franco Swiss border, only 20mins from Chamonix. (Most people coming from the Chamonix direction don't even realise they've crossed the border...) It features numerous good multi pitch routes and many single pitch sectors dotted around, which give some of the best valley climbing in the Chamonix area. It's compact and complex and impossible to provide all necessary access info on this page. Study the guidebook carefully for access to your chosen sector.

When doing long routes, bear in mind that it does become quite busy in the summer and although most routes are equipped for abseil descent it's better to walk down so as not to interfere with ascending parties. (The exception to this is La Grande Face, which is abseil only.) Thus you can climb with either a single 50m or 2x50m. The descent path, however, also passes some great single pitch crags where you can enjoy a few more pitches for your money. In this case take a single 70m.

NOTES:

1) Routes without names have been numbered from the latest guide book - shown below. Existing ticks have been transfered to these numbers.

2) A number of routes in Bouchy Gorge have been affected by a 'rockfall', caused when the Emosson Company released a large amount of water into the valley above the crag. This washed down a complete scree slope into the gorge. Virtually all the routes have been affected, some more than others, however, most routes are still excellent and their starts are being systematically re-bolted with respect to the new ground level. NOTE: This applies to the GORGE only - all other sectors of Bouchy remain unaffected. At the moment, (18.10.09.), only the last two routes on the data base are waiting for their re-equipment. I have yet to re-climb the last three...

3) The orientation of each sector is shown after its name (N, S, E or W)

Access notes
Approaches vary from 15 to 45 minutes walk from the parking areas to start of the climbs. Access is from either Barberine (F) or Giétroz (CH) depending on your chosen sector. PLEASE park as noted in the guide book at the entrances to these villages...

Guidebooks
Les Aiguilles Rouges vol 2 (2012), Barberine Gietroz - les classiques et les nouveaux spots (2006), Crag Climbs in Chamonix (2005)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 PASSET DU HAUT (SE)  
2Variant6c  
3Sue-Ellen6b ** 
4Dallas6c+ ***1
5JR6a ***2
6Saga6a+ ***1
7Clayton6a+ ** 
8Bobby5c *2
9Pam5c 1
 PASSET DU BAS GAUCHE (W AND SE) (NOS REFER TO BARBERINE TOPO)  
11La traversée du dragon (1)6c **1
12La mousson (2)6a+  
13Digue, dingue, donc (3)6a+  
14Le village englouti (4)6b+ 1
15Missing? (5)6c  
16Le cheval de Troie (6)7b * 
17Le cheval à bascule (7)7a * 
18Emotion à Emosson (8)6b+ **1
19Les tendres souhaites (9)6a 1
20Bonne nuit les petits (10)6c **1
21La cigale et la fourmi (11)6a+ **2
22Poèmes et comptines (12)6c+ **1
23Pimprenelle5a  
24La poudre de perlinpinpin (13)6c ** 
25Calins Nounours4a  
26Pin et chocolat (14)6b ** 
27Sur un petit nuage (15)5a ** 
28Le Pas Obligatoire *6b **1
 PASSET DU BAS - MUR DU LOUP (SE) NUMBERS REFER TO TOPO  
30A'louest rien de nouveau (1')6a *1
31Le nouveau monde (1)6c 1
32Rocky mountain (2)6c **1
33Un air de Tenessee (3)7a **1
34Mystère U (4)7b *1
35Les loups sont entrés dans Paris (5)6c+ ***1
36Lou garou (6)6c ***1
37Camaïeu (7)7a+ **1
38Couleur pastel6c  
39Sous la loupe6a  
40Rémus & Romulus7a+  
41Le petit chaperon rouge (8)6c+ **1
42P'tit loup (9)6b *1
 MAIN FACE (S)  
44La Sylvie Phobie6c **21
45La Barbourine6c ***10
46Mirrors on the Ceiling7a ***3
47Vipère au Pied6b ***21
48Méduse7a ***7
49Bon Voyage7a ***9
50Balade au Bout des Combes6c **5
51La Tour de Chauffe6c **2
 DALLES DU BAS (S) (L-R, - NO NAMES OR NUMBERS IN TOPO)  
531 Dalles2  
542 Dalles5c ***10
553 Dalles6a+ ***12
564 Dalles5c **8
575 Dalles6a *10
586 Dalles5c 7
597 Dalles6a 7
608 Dalles6a 5
619 Dalles5c 5
6210 Dalles6a 4
6311 Upper ledge6a *2
6412 Upper ledge6c **1
6513 Upper ledge6b *3
6614 Upper ledge6a+ **5
6715 Far R slab6a 3
6816 Far R slab5c 2
6917 Far R slab5a 2
 LA ZONE (S)  
71Rando6b *3
72Balade...(1)6b+ **2
73Balade...(2)6c **3
74Le Voleur6b ***10
75Ma Bête Noire7b+ ** 
76Saloprises7c+ ** 
77Lune de Miel7a ***4
78Moonshine6b+ ***5
79Ca roule, la Boule6c+ ***2
80La Zone6b+ ***9
81Talisman7a+ ***3
82Touchstone7a+ ***1
83Les doigts de passage7b ***1
84Play it Again, Sam7a+ ***3
85Sam's Route7a ***8
86Génésis6b+ **3
87Génératrice7b ***3
88Génocide6b+ **4
89Voie de la Souche7a+ **1
90Menhir7c ** 
91Projet (Sam's)Project  
92Voie Martin6c **3
93Apéritif6c **5
94L'Inversée6c ***4
95Fin de Saison6c ***5
96Mise en bouche6b **15
97Bullet the Blue Sky7a **6
98Des jours comme ça...6c+ **3
99Les doigts dans le nez6c+ **1
100California Dreamin'6c+ **2
 DOWNSTAIRS (S)  
102Hors Saison7a+ **1
103Hors question (marked projet)7b ** 
104Hors Piste6c **1
105Head-Banger6c **1
106Marc's Route (marked projet)7b ** 
107Xavier's Route8a+ ** 
108B 526c+ **1
109La Tour de Chauffe (Downstairs)6c **1
 PYLONE UPPER (S)  
111Arielle6c 1
 SECTEUR CHATELARD (SE)  
113Custom m'aide7a+ ***4
114Si le lichen ne revenait pas6c+ ***2
115Autoroute Blanche6c ***11
116Cacao Girls6a+ 12
 AFRIQUE (S)  
118Belles et Buts7a+ **1
119Dynomight7b ***1
120Quel Festin7a ***4
121Luce-Ifer6a **11
122L'Epicondylite7a+ **1
123Traitement de choc7b+ **4
 Climb nameGradex
124Psychothérapie - marked projet.8a ** 
125Physiothérapie6c+ ***4
126Colimaçon7a+ **1
127Prestige7b **2
128Marée Noire6c+ ***4
129L'Epée de Damocles6c ***16
130Guillotine7a ***7
131Djibouti6c+ *4
132Découverte classique6a *8
133Black Mamba7b **2
134Découverte Directe6c ***7
135The Go-between7a *1
136Charmant Dévers6c ***3
137L'Escalator6c **1
138N'importe quoi6b **4
139L'Anormale6b **5
140Le toit, la dalle et le surplomb.6c **6
141Dalle qui m'aille7b **2
142Dure de dalle7a+ *2
 LA GORGE (SE + N)  
144Question d'égout7a+ **1
145Le Piège6c **3
146Mal à la gorgeProject  
147La Colombe et la Vie7a+ **2
148Mardis Gras7a+ **2
149Dimanche Noir7c ***1
150Samedi Soir (sur la terre)7c ***1
151Objectif Terre7c+ ***1
152Dreamer7b **5
153Rêve de Singe8a ***3
154Au Fil du Temps7c ***3
155Senanga7b **2
156Sortiledge6c **4
157Le Sorcier7c+ ** 
158L'Orage7a+ *2
159The Full Monty7a ***3
160Happy Birthday6b *3
161Mystique7c ** 
162In Absentia7b ***4
163La Ligne8a+ *** 
164La Petite Ligne8a *** 
165Cauchemar8b *** 
 LA GRANDE FACE (SE)  
167Serial Hiker6b+ *2
168Le Jardinier8a ** 
169Mon Jardin Secret7a+ ***2
170Goofy7a+ ***3
171Gwendoline6c+ **1
172Petite Lune7b+ ***1
173Summer Daze7c ***1
174Fesse d'huîtres6c ***3
175Pharaon Ailé7c ** 
176Rage et désespoir7a+ ***3
177Magie Blanche7a ***2
178Pour le meilleur, pour le pire7a ***1
 SECTEUR HULOTTE (BASE OF LA GRANDE FACE) (SE)  
180Fesse d'huîtres (Hulotte)6b+ *5
181Harpie6c *2
182Ganesh6c+ **1
183Game Over6c+ *2
184Poisson d'avril6c **2
185Rage et désespoir (Hulotte)6c **3
186La Hulotte7a+ **1
187Bouge de là7b **1
188Causes Perdues6c *1
 SECTEUR SANGUINE (E +SE)  
190No Time to Waste7a **1
191Le Mépris7a **1
192Who's next?6c+ *1
193Sanguine7b ***1
194Sans nom6c * 
195Voie Burnier6c **1
196Dégustation de Lichen6c+ *1
197Gay Pied6c **1
198Courage Blanc7b **1
 SECTEUR LA CROIX (E)  
200Silicose6c  
201Diagonale du fou6b 1
202Magnum Force8a * 
 MICRO CLIMAT (N)  
204Ombres et Lumières6c **2
205The Dark Side7a ***3
206Ténèbres6b+ **3
207A shoulder to cry on6c ***4
208Coolmax7b ***1
209Micro climax7a+ ***2
210Micro climat6c ***3
211Attention à la marche6c ***3
212Length isn't everything6c **3
213Micro crotte6a 1
 FAWLTY TOWERS (W)  
215Sybil7a+ **1
216Basil's brush job7a+ ***1
 BOUCHY (W + S + E)  
218Arêtica aesthetica7b+ ***1
219Pas de bras, pas de bloc7b **1
220Tour de Force7a+ ***2
221Demi Tour - Aesthetica7a ***1
222Petite fleur6b+ ***2
223Le Friend Manquant7a **1
224Check-in6c+ ***3
225Crotte Monsieur6c+ *1
226Bouchy Airlines7b+ ***1
227De la Résine et des Ailes (proj)Project  
228Pilot Error7b ** 
229Le Grand Dièdre6b+ ***2
230When the Levee Breaks6b+ ***3
231Good Vibrations7a ***3
232Arête Municipale6c ***2
233La Plage7b ***1
234Entracte6c ***2
235Entre-temps6b+ ***2
236Entre nous6b+ **1
237La Fissure6b *1
238Le Pouce du Panda6a 2
239L'Index4a 2
240Le Petit Dièdre5c *1
241Les Temoins7a+ ***2
 UNVERIFIED ROUTES  
243Gorgeous 7b+ ***1
244Waterworld 6c *1
245Pointe d'Interrogation 6b+ *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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