Gurnard's Head

Climbs 24 – Rocktype Greenstone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Exposure and commitment are the bywords at this huge expanse of blackish stone. Best known for the three-pitch Right Angle (HS 4b), a contender for the best sub-HVS climb anywhere. Other worthwhile routes include Behemoth (E2), Mastodon (E3) and Art of the Slate (E6 6a) - a Mark Edwards route that has won its deserved status now its bolts are gone.

Access notes
Tidal - base of routes on Right Angle Cliff accessible for two hours either side of low tide. Seriously affected by swells.

There is limited (tolerated) parking at and near the Gurnard's Head Hotel on the B3306 (St Ives-St Just), and in Treen (off the B3306).

Follow the lane leading seawards to a row of old coastguard houses. A right of way leads over a stile: follow this for half a mile (keep to edges of fields) to the neck of the headland.

Most routes require abseil access - be sure you have got the tides right and know where you're going.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 CLIMBS STARTING UP RIGHT ANGLE  
2Right AngleHS 4b ***355
3Right Angle (VS 4b variation)VS 4b ***49
4Surf WallS 4
5Rota GutaS 1
6The KrakenHVS 5a 5
7Pure JuiceE1 5b 2
 CLIMBS STARTING FROM THE CAVE  
9BehemothE2 5c ***30
10LeviathanE4 6a **2
 CLIMBS REACHED FROM THE REGION OF SHARK  
12MastodonE3 5c ***37
13Black MagicE2 5b **14
14SharkE1 5b *16
15Tropospheric ScatterE4 5c **6
16ProbeS 3
 MISCELLANEOUS ROUTES  
18No AngleVD 1
19If Blue Were BlueS 4a 1
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Behemoth will rarely come in to condition. You need low tide and very little swell (under 3ft)and if the sun is needed to dry it your ascent will be after 6pm.
Kafoozalem - 26/Mar/12