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These details were last updated on 08/May/2006

Gurnard's Head

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 24 – Rocktype Greenstone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Exposure and commitment are the bywords at this huge expanse of blackish stone. Best known for the three-pitch Right Angle (HS 4b), a contender for the best sub-HVS climb anywhere. Other worthwhile routes include Behemoth (E2), Mastodon (E3) and Art of the Slate (E6 6a) - a Mark Edwards route that has won its deserved status now its bolts are gone.

Access notes
Tidal - base of routes on Right Angle Cliff accessible for two hours either side of low tide. Seriously affected by swells.

There is limited (tolerated) parking at and near the Gurnard's Head Hotel on the B3306 (St Ives-St Just), and in Treen (off the B3306).

Follow the lane leading seawards to a row of old coastguard houses. A right of way leads over a stile: follow this for half a mile (keep to edges of fields) to the neck of the headland.

Most routes require abseil access - be sure you have got the tides right and know where you're going.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.6mm rain
17 °C
35 kph

0.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
28 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
15 kph

0.0mm rain
19 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
21 °C
11 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Right AngleHS 4b ***346
3Right Angle (VS 4b variation)VS 4b ***44
4Surf WallS 4
5Rota GutaS 1
6The KrakenHVS 5a 5
7Pure JuiceE1 5b 2
9BehemothE2 5c ***29
10LeviathanE4 6a **2
 Climb nameGradex
12MastodonE3 5c ***36
13Black MagicE2 5b **14
14SharkE1 5b *16
15Tropospheric ScatterE4 5c **6
16ProbeS 3
18No AngleVD 1
19If Blue Were BlueS 4a 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Behemoth will rarely come in to condition. You need low tide and very little swell (under 3ft)and if the sun is needed to dry it your ascent will be after 6pm.
Kafoozalem - 26/Mar/12