Exposure and commitment are the bywords at this huge expanse of blackish stone. Best known for the three-pitch Right Angle (HS 4b), a contender for the best sub-HVS climb anywhere. Other worthwhile routes include Behemoth (E2), Mastodon (E3) and Art of the Slate (E6 6a) - a Mark Edwards route that has won its deserved status now its bolts are gone.
Tidal - base of routes on Right Angle Cliff accessible for two hours either side of low tide. Seriously affected by swells.
There is limited (tolerated) parking at and near the Gurnard's Head Hotel on the B3306 (St Ives-St Just), and in Treen (off the B3306).
Follow the lane leading seawards to a row of old coastguard houses. A right of way leads over a stile: follow this for half a mile (keep to edges of fields) to the neck of the headland.
Most routes require abseil access - be sure you have got the tides right and know where you're going.
|CLIMBS STARTING UP RIGHT ANGLE|
|2||Right Angle||HS 4b ***||358|
|3||Right Angle (VS 4b variation)||VS 4b ***||49|
|6||The Kraken||HVS 5a||5|
|7||Pure Juice||E1 5b||2|
|CLIMBS STARTING FROM THE CAVE|
|9||Behemoth||E2 5c **||30|
|10||Leviathan||E4 6a **||2|
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|Behemoth will rarely come in to condition. You need low tide and very little swell (under 3ft)and if the sun is needed to dry it your ascent will be after 6pm.|
Kafoozalem - 26/Mar/12