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These details were last updated on 08/May/2006

Gurnard's Head

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 24 – Rocktype Greenstone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Exposure and commitment are the bywords at this huge expanse of blackish stone. Best known for the three-pitch Right Angle (HS 4b), a contender for the best sub-HVS climb anywhere. Other worthwhile routes include Behemoth (E2), Mastodon (E3) and Art of the Slate (E6 6a) - a Mark Edwards route that has won its deserved status now its bolts are gone.

Access notes
Tidal - base of routes on Right Angle Cliff accessible for two hours either side of low tide. Seriously affected by swells.

There is limited (tolerated) parking at and near the Gurnard's Head Hotel on the B3306 (St Ives-St Just), and in Treen (off the B3306).

Follow the lane leading seawards to a row of old coastguard houses. A right of way leads over a stile: follow this for half a mile (keep to edges of fields) to the neck of the headland.

Most routes require abseil access - be sure you have got the tides right and know where you're going.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

1.7mm rain
22 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
21 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
19 °C
27 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
19 °C
30 kph

0.0mm rain
19 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2Right AngleHS 4b ***327
3Right Angle (VS 4b variation)VS 4b ***42
4Surf WallS 4
5Rota GutaS 1
6The KrakenHVS 5a 4
8BehemothE2 5c ***25
9LeviathanE4 6a **2
 Climb nameGradex
11MastodonE3 5c ***32
12Black MagicE2 5b **14
13SharkE1 5b *14
14Tropospheric ScatterE4 5c **6
15ProbeS 3
17No AngleVD 1
18If Blue Were BlueS 4a 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Behemoth will rarely come in to condition. You need low tide and very little swell (under 3ft)and if the sun is needed to dry it your ascent will be after 6pm.
Kafoozalem - 26/Mar/12