Climbs 172
Rocktype Granite

Faces W

Sennen and Irish Lady Cove. Phot taken by moonlight. © stuart100

Crag features

Golden hand-ripping granite with routes up to 90 ft. Many sub-E1 popular routes makes this a popular venue for learners. Even the experienced will enjoy Demo Route (HS 4b). Also includes top-notch hard routes, most the work of Mark Edwards, such as 29 Palms (E6 6c) and Tears of a Clown (E7 6b). Bouldering as you like it on the wide platform.

Approach notes

Mostly not tidal but CAN BE DANGEROUS with swells. People have been washed out to sea from the non-tidal platform - beware.
>From the A30 (Penzance-Land's End) turn W (R from Penzance) to Sennen. Park in the Sennen Cove car park at very end of high street.
From the (redundant) coastguard lookout, either (1) set up a careful abseil to the platform, avoiding interference with climbers on routes and padding the rope against sharp crystals or (2) downclimb Griptight Gully (Diff) which faces N towards Demo Route; or (3) walk S past the lookout, to a split boulder and down a narrow gully that lines up with a strange-looking offshore rock. Scramble leftwards towards the main platform. Beware swells - you can get swept off into the sea.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Forgotten Wall 
2The Forgotten Wall
-
E5 6a  
3Placa del Edwards
-
E7 6c/7a  
4The Paragon Returns
-
E7 6b  
 Black Zawn 
6Prow
-
E4 6a * 
7High Street Blues
-
E5 6a **3
8DelilahE2 5b **94
9Cool Curl
-
HVS 5b  
10Zig ZagHVS 5a **356
1129 PalmsE6 6c 3
12The Tracks of my TearsE8 6c ***1
13Tears of a ClownE7 6b **12
14Ace of Spades
-
E4 5c *5
15Thieves Carnival
-
E6 6b  
16Norge CornerHS 4b 48
17Skid Mark
-
E4 6b  
18Slight Pause
-
VS 4c 12
19Slippery Chute
-
VS 4c 40
20Slab Happy
-
E3 5b 5
21Slippery SlabVS 5a **141
22Dark Comedian
-
E3 5b 1
23Congo RouteVS 4c, 4c 7
24Trip across the Slip
-
E2 5c  
25Much Ado about Nothing
-
E6 6c ** 
26Congo Crack
-
E1 5b 22
27Congo Tribute
-
E2 5c 5
28Amazonia
-
E7 6c *** 
29Rainbow Warrior
-
E7 6c *** 
30Genge's GrooveHVS 5a **63
31Let the River Live
-
E6 6b ** 
32Eeny
-
HVS 5a 3
33Meany
-
HVS 5a  
34Genge's Right Hand
-
HVS 5b  
35FinaleE2 5c 9
36A Swift Flight of FancyE3 6a **31
37Red Rose
-
E8 7a  
38Samson
-
E5 6b 2
39The Rock Hopper
-
M 6a 1
 Lower Tier 
41The Wipe-out ZoneE3 5b  
 Demo Area 
43Samson Arete / Parthian ShotE2 6a ***226
44DemolitionE6 6a ***60
45Demo RouteHS 4b ***2140
46Intermediate RouteHVD *617
47AndrimneS 4a 132
48Corner ClimbVD **1019
49Corner CrackS 4a 203
50ProteinVS 4c 27
51Hot TunaHVS 4c 20
52Post the Postman
-
VS 4c 5
53Civvy RouteHS 4b **518
54Walter's Chimney
-
D 48
55LetterboxHS 4b **528
56Griptight Gully
-
D 146
 Central Area 
58Gully Wall Left HandS 2
59Gully Wall Right Hand
-
VD 2
60Centre Pitch
-
VS 4a  
61The FlakesE1 5b 25
62Banana Crack
-
HVS 5c 22
63Left Banana Flake
-
D 112
64Orange Slice
-
VD 60
65Black Groove
-
VD 31
66Banana FlakeVD **936
67Banana Split
-
HVS 5a 16
68The AreteVS 4b **393
69Main Face ClimbD *384
70Fruit Salad
-
VD 36
71Black Jack
-
S 97
72Gilliwiggle
-
S 40
73Marionette
-
E2 5c 13
74No Pack Drill
-
E2 5c 4
 Staircase Area 
76Black SlabVD *475
77No NameHVD **323
78No Number
-
VS 5a 38
79StaircaseD **888
80Skewcrack
-
S 4b 75
81Truescrew Crack
-
VS 4c 2
82Overhanging WallVS 4c 88
83Overhanging CornerVS 4c *152
84Mark Up Another OneE6 6b **1
85Africa RouteVS 5a **600
86Whtie Mans Burden
-
VS 5a 31
87Double OverhangVS 4c **660
88Devo
-
VS 4c 16
89DevoteeE1 5b 4
90DexterVS 5a **302
91DextroseHVS 5a *159
92Windows of PerfectionE5 6b 10
93Water Spout ChimneyHS 4b *8
 Sunday Face 
95Sinner's RouteD *333
96White Wedding
-
V3  
97Stairway To Heaven
-
E1 5a 8
98Windows of Perception
-
E5 6a 1
99Black Widow
-
E3 6b  
100Messenger from the Furnace
-
E5 6c/7a ** 
101Exodus
-
E3 6b  
102Angel's Highway
-
E2 6a 35
103Comunion Crack
-
HVS 5c 28
104The QuakerE1 5c 103
105Church WindowVD 201
106Church Window Variation 1aHS 4c 15
107Church Window Variation 2aHVS 5a 2
108Catholic Girls
-
HVS 5c 31
109Altar Route
-
VS 4c 67
110Altar Route variation finish
-
HS 4c 1
111TombstoneE1 5b 10
112Catacombs
-
E6 6b 2
 Golva Area 
114OvermarkedHS 4a 15
115Senior's RouteD **453
116Junior's Route (aka Cliff Assault Wing Route)D *375
117International Groove
-
E3 5c 1
118Pots Arete
-
HVS 5a 24
119Monday FaceVS 4b **425
120Slim
-
VS 5a 122
121Vertical CrackVS 4c **693
122Squeeze Me
-
E3 6a 6
123GillianE3 5c **150
124ExSqueeze Me
-
E5 6b 1
125Gillian (direct start)
-
E4 5c 12
126GolvaE2 5c **203
127Pinch the Egyptian
-
E6 6c  
128Tango In The NightE3 6b *1
129Smeagol
-
HVS 5a 11
 Terrace Cracks Area 
131SquirtHS 4b 2
132Cut Price Comedy Climb
-
HVS 4c 2
133Stunted Arete
-
HVS 5a  
134Dolphin CracksHVS 5a **195
135Top Banana
-
E5 6a  
136Hell Hath No Fear
-
E7 6c  
137Baptism Of FireE5 6b 1
138Terrace CracksHVS 5a *140
139Slanting Crack
-
HVS 5a 37
140Arang Atang
-
HVS 5a  
141Superjam
-
E5 6b *** 
142A Flair for the TheatricalE4 6a **3
143Rib and Flake
-
E3 6b * 
144HayloftVS 4c *293
145Hayloft CracksHVS 5a 24
146Donna
-
HS 4b 38
147On Your Marks
-
HVS 5a 14
148Hayloft Gully
-
D 71
149Plucky
-
HVS 5b 2
150The Green Beret
-
E1 5b 4
 The Irish Lady Cove 
152Slip SteepVD 4
153The Big BladeE3 5c 1
154Six Blade Knife
-
E2 5b **15
155Commando Crack
-
VS 5a 11
156Stone the Crows
-
E4 6a  
157Commando Corner
-
VS 4c  
158Ostrobogulous
-
VD 4
159Grot
-
VS 4c 2
160Tartarus
-
S 4a  
161Geordie Boy
-
HS 4b  
162Dublin Wall
-
VS 5a  
163Irish Lady Chimneys
-
VD  
164Brain Drain
-
E3 5c  
165Sky Train
-
E2 5b  
166Chi Squared
-
HVS 5a  
167Flexitoys
-
E3 6a  
168Plastic Edge
-
E2 5b  
169Speleology
-
HVS 5a  
170Stout Crack
-
E4 6a  
171The North Wall
-
VS 5a  
172Campanology
-
S 4a *4
173Dead Ringer
-
HVS 5b * 
174Coconut Cove
-
E5 6b ** 
175Teleology
-
S 4a  
176Soft Touch
-
E2 5b  
177Face Lift
-
E3 5c  
178Feeding the Mouse
-
VD  
179Dark Lady
-
E1 5a  
180Retail Therapy
-
VS 5a  
181Christine
-
S 4a  
182Final Line
-
E1 5b  

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