Climbs 31
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces S

Mr Mills on the second ascent of How to Read the Air © tat

Crag features

the BMC access officer for Cymru has discussed access with the National Trust:
The walls and slabs reach 52 meters in places .
The top 20 metres of the walls and slabs are vegetated and easy angled in places so at present resin lower off anchors are being placed at the 20--25 meter point to allow leaders to lower off at the point where the good rock ends . These anchors have not been placed to facilitate toproping. This quarry should only be used by experienced climbers due to the unstable nature of the top sections .
Also being so close to the town it is advisable not to make a nuisance of ourselves etc

Access Advice

Although located on land mapped as open access, climbing on this crag has been historically banned due to concerns about falling rock. Following negotiations between the BMC and the National Trust, access for climbing has now been agreed, subject to a nesting restriction to protect nesting choughs.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)
Absolutely cracking venue for catching the early morning sunshine! Rock is for the most part solid other than the line of Zeus which is loose in places..
Samuel Wainwright - 29/Nov/12
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Climbs at this crag

12Ethical CruiseE2 5b  
13Hollywood Playboy7c+ **1
14Columbia6a *14
15Chough Justice6c **7
16Total Perspective VortexE1 5b 4
17Zeus DirectE3 5c 1
18ZeusE4 5c 2
19ActioV5 *3
20Actio ExtentionV5 **2
21Pull Up's make you strongV4 ***2
22Hollywood DivaV1 **1
23Diva's little sisterV0+ **2
24Hollywood MistressV3 **2
25Hollywood SlaveV3 *1
26One for WimpsVB *2
27Diva AreteV1 *2
28Black Mambaf7B+ ***1
29Hyraxf6A *2
30Copperhead RoadV4 2
31Beyond Friction *f7C+ ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tat