Climbs 124 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude Tidal – Faces W

Crag features
Marvellous lines abound, single- and multi-pitch routes up to 200ft. Often very busy at Easter and Bank Holidays. Many low-grade classics including Doorpost (HS 4b), Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) and Anvil Chorus (VS 4c, much fallen off), and Suicide Wall (E1 5c), with mid-range musts like Bow Wall (E2 5b), Ghost (E3 5b), Vulcan (E5 6b).

Access notes
Tidal in a few areas, but almost all unaffected.

Park at the NT car park off the B3306 (Morvah-Zennor) by the old mine-stack ruins. Follow rocky track N towards sea. Scramble over blocks downwards to find the crag looming on your R. The crag is 300yds long with most of the good routes towards the centre.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2HopeVD 21
3Hopeless SlabHVS 4c *13
4The PessimistE2 5b *1
5GeronimoE1 5c *13
6Geronimo variationE2 5b 2
7BoldfingerE2 5b *4
8Silas MarnerE2 5b **5
9StrikeHVS 5a 2
10SeasprayE1 5c  
11SimlaVD 11
12Promontory TraverseS 23
13Shallow ChimneyD 14
14Ochre Slab Route IIS 4a **493
15Ochre One Point FiveE1 5b 14
16Ochre Slab Route I-IIVS 4c **2
17Ochre Slab Route IHVS 5a **417
18Black SlabD **576
19Red SlabS 4a 93
20Red Slab AlternativeHS 4b 18
21Red Slab variationHS 4b 15
22RaptureVS 4c 10
23Gollywog's CakewalkHS 4c 80
24Schorl SlantVD 6
25BelleVS 4c 34
26DingVS 4c **360
27DungHS 4b 18
28Ding variantE1 5b 1
29DongS 4b *301
30Sunny CornerM 27
31The Anniversary ProblemHVS 5b 2
33FalloutS 4a 15
34SinistraVS 4c 32
35ArtificerHVS 5b 13
36DaedalusHVS 5a 7
37The LeerE3 6a 2
38ArtifactE4 6b 2
39LurchE2 6a 6
40The ArmchairHVS 5a *136
41Beaker RouteHVS 5a *45
42Teahupo'oE8 7a 1
43KafoozalemE3 6a ***129
44Evil EyeE5 6b ***20
45Raven WallE3 5c ***89
46GrendelE2 5c **72
47Pump It UpE3 6a *10
48Saddle TrampE4 6a *9
49PatienceE3 5c **61
50DominatorE2 5c **22
51Zig Zag Optional Start AVS 4c 4
52Zig ZagVS 4c **278
53Western HeroE2 5c 5
55CasalsVS 4b 1
56RostropovitchE2 5b 1
57Du PreVS 4c *1
58Raven Wall Optional StartVS 5a 5
59Yo Yo MaE2 5b 1
60Zig Zag Optional Start BVS 4b 12
61Dominator Optional StartE1 5b 8
62Western Hero Optional StartE2 5c 4
64Autumn FlakesHS 4b **391
65Autumn Flakes/NamelessVS 4c **50
66BroadstairsE2 5b 13
67ParagonHVS 5a **275
68ParadiseE1 5c 11
69NamelessVS 4c ***342
70Nameless/ParagonHVS 5a **15
71BeowulfE2 5c **96
72The PhantomE3 5c *10
73The AbsolutionE5 6c ** 
74Suicide WallE1 5c ***554
76The GhostE3 5b ***109
77VulcanE5 6b * 
78New MediumE4 6a  
79Bow WallE2 5b ***278
80DoorpostHS 4b ***1583
81Doorpost variationHVS 5b 25
82ShaftE3 6b 2
83Permanent WavesE4 5c  
84Thin Wall SpecialE1 5b **369
85The Chicken RunE2 5b 20
86The Boysen VariantE1 5b 3
87Toad Wall SpecialE3 6a 16
88Little Brown JugVS 5a ***1088
89Little Brown Jug (Variation Start)HVS 5a 115
90Feast of FearE6 6b 2
91Thick Wall SpecialE4 5c *12
92Visions of JohannaE1 5b **162
93DoorwayS 4a **906
94ClobVD 140
95VenusbergVS 4c **271
96Anvil ChorusVS 4c ***751
97Jolly Green GiantE2 6a 2
98Ledge ClimbHVD ***638
99AndrewS 4a **524
100The WastelandHVS 5b 11
101The Rib ClimbS 24
102Como CrackS 9
103Sloping SlabS 9
104Sea Wall ExitsVS 4c 5
106Diamond TiaraHVS 5b *3
107String of PearlsE1 5b **9
109MarkHS 4b 47
110T-TourHVS 5b 20
111Fungus FaceE3 6b 10
112TrapezeHVS 5a 92
113The Peck VariantHVS 5a 10
114Big TopVD *562
115Flat TopHS 4b 67
116Simple SimonHS 4b 81
117Poison IvyE3 6a 4
118Crazy Man MichaelVS 4c 15
119PaulineHS 4b 31
120SampanVD 22
121PicnicVS 5a 84
122Picnic VariationVS 5a 8
123Holiday SlabVS 4c 9
124OreadHVD **489
125Oread BypassVD 93
126In-BetweenVD **618
127KateVD *429
128Alison RibD ***1520
129FafnirD 129
130FasoltVD 85
131The Giant StepsVD 14
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