Climbs 125 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude Tidal – Faces W

Crag features
Marvellous lines abound, single- and multi-pitch routes up to 200ft. Often very busy at Easter and Bank Holidays. Many low-grade classics including Doorpost (HS 4b), Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) and Anvil Chorus (VS 4c, much fallen off), and Suicide Wall (E1 5c), with mid-range musts like Bow Wall (E2 5b), Ghost (E3 5b), Vulcan (E5 6b).

Approach notes
Tidal in a few areas, but almost all unaffected.

Park at the NT car park off the B3306 (Morvah-Zennor) by the old mine-stack ruins. Follow rocky track N towards sea. Scramble over blocks downwards to find the crag looming on your R. The crag is 300yds long with most of the good routes towards the centre.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2HopeVD 21
3Hopeless SlabHVS 4c *15
4The PessimistE2 5b *1
5GeronimoE1 5c *15
6Geronimo variationE2 5b 2
7BoldfingerE2 5b *4
8Silas MarnerE2 5b **5
9StrikeHVS 5a 2
10SeasprayE1 5c  
11SimlaVD 11
12Promontory TraverseS 24
13Shallow ChimneyD 15
14Ochre Slab Route IIS 4a **536
15Ochre One Point FiveE1 5b 15
16Ochre Slab Route I-IIVS 4c **8
17Ochre Slab Route IHVS 5a **449
18Black SlabD **610
19Red SlabS 4a 94
20Red Slab AlternativeHS 4b 18
21Red Slab variationHS 4b 17
22RaptureVS 4c 10
23Gollywog's CakewalkHS 4c 81
24Schorl SlantVD 6
25BelleVS 4c 37
26DingVS 4c **403
27DungHS 4b 18
28Ding variantE1 5b 1
29DongS 4b *332
30Sunny CornerM 29
31The Anniversary ProblemHVS 5b 2
33FalloutS 4a 17
34SinistraVS 4c 33
35ArtificerHVS 5b 14
36DaedalusHVS 5a 7
37The LeerE3 6a 2
38ArtifactE4 6b 2
39LurchE2 6a 6
40The ArmchairHVS 5a *152
41Beaker RouteHVS 5a *56
42Teahupo'oE8 7a 1
43KafoozalemE3 6a ***150
44Evil EyeE5 6b ***22
45Raven WallE3 5c ***93
46GrendelE2 5c **91
47Pump It UpE3 6a *11
48Saddle TrampE4 6a *9
49PatienceE3 5c **68
50DominatorE2 5c **23
51Zig Zag Optional Start AVS 4c 6
52Zig ZagVS 4c **305
53Western HeroE2 5c 5
55CasalsVS 4b 1
56RostropovichE2 5b 1
57Du PreVS 4c *1
58Raven Wall Optional StartVS 5a 5
59Yo Yo MaE2 5b 1
60Zig Zag Optional Start BVS 4b 12
61Dominator Optional StartE1 5b 10
62Western Hero Optional StartE2 5c 4
64Autumn FlakesHS 4b **425
65Autumn Flakes/NamelessVS 4c **60
66BroadstairsE2 5b 13
67ParagonHVS 5a **302
68ParadiseE1 5c 12
69NamelessVS 4c ***385
70Nameless/ParagonHVS 5a **15
71BeowulfE2 5c **105
72The PhantomE3 5c *10
73The AbsolutionE5 6c ** 
74Suicide WallE1 5c ***594
76The GhostE3 5b ***116
77VulcanE5 6b * 
78New MediumE4 6a  
79Bow WallE2 5b ***312
80DoorpostHS 4b ***1725
81Doorpost variationHVS 5b 25
82ShaftE3 6b 2
83Permanent WavesE4 5c  
84Thin Wall SpecialE1 5b **426
85The Chicken RunE2 5b 24
86The Boysen VariantE1 5b 3
87Toad Wall SpecialE3 6a 18
88BrownpostHS 1
89Little Brown JugVS 5a ***1187
90Little Brown Jug (Variation Start)HVS 5a 127
91Feast of FearE6 6b 2
92Thick Wall SpecialE4 5c *13
93Visions of JohannaE1 5b **195
94DoorwayS 4a **957
95ClobVD 140
96VenusbergVS 4c **302
97Anvil ChorusVS 4c ***820
98Jolly Green GiantE2 6a 2
99Ledge ClimbHVD ***706
100AndrewS 4a **571
101The WastelandHVS 5b 11
102The Rib ClimbS 24
103Como CrackS 9
104Sloping SlabS 9
105Sea Wall ExitsVS 4c 5
107Diamond TiaraHVS 5b *2
108String of PearlsE1 5b **8
110MarkHS 4b 48
111T-TourHVS 5b 20
112Fungus FaceE3 6b 10
113TrapezeHVS 5a 94
114The Peck VariantHVS 5a 10
115Big TopVD *609
116Flat TopHS 4b 72
117Simple SimonHS 4b 88
118Poison IvyE3 6a 4
119Crazy Man MichaelVS 4c 16
120PaulineHS 4b 32
121SampanVD 23
122PicnicVS 5a 87
123Picnic VariationVS 5a 9
124Holiday SlabVS 4c 10
125OreadHVD **539
126Oread BypassVD 97
127In-BetweenVD **681
128KateVD *458
129Alison RibD ***1674
130FafnirD 131
131FasoltVD 87
132The Giant StepsVD 14
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Bosigran seems to be currently infested with ticks (in the last two weekend I know four people who have picked them up).
andrewmcleod - 15/Jun/15