Climbs 123 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude Tidal – Faces W

Crag features
Marvellous lines abound, single- and multi-pitch routes up to 200ft. Often very busy at Easter and Bank Holidays. Many low-grade classics including Doorpost (HS 4b), Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) and Anvil Chorus (VS 4c, much fallen off), and Suicide Wall (E1 5c), with mid-range musts like Bow Wall (E2 5b), Ghost (E3 5b), Vulcan (E5 6b).

Access notes
Tidal in a few areas, but almost all unaffected.

Park at the NT car park off the B3306 (Morvah-Zennor) by the old mine-stack ruins. Follow rocky track N towards sea. Scramble over blocks downwards to find the crag looming on your R. The crag is 300yds long with most of the good routes towards the centre.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2HopeVD 21
3Hopeless SlabHVS 4c *12
4The PessimistE2 5b *1
5GeronimoE1 5c *13
6Geronimo variationE2 5b 2
7BoldfingerE2 5b *4
8Silas MarnerE2 5b **5
9StrikeHVS 5a 2
10SeasprayE1 5c  
11SimlaVD 11
12Promontory TraverseS 23
13Shallow ChimneyD 14
14Ochre Slab Route IIS 4a **478
15Ochre One Point FiveE1 5b 14
16Ochre Slab Route IHVS 5a **407
17Black SlabD **564
18Red SlabS 4a 90
19Red Slab AlternativeHS 4b 18
20Red Slab variationHS 4b 14
21RaptureVS 4c 9
22Gollywog's CakewalkHS 4c 80
23Schorl SlantVD 6
24BelleVS 4c 34
25DingVS 4c **352
26DungHS 4b 17
27Ding variantE1 5b 1
28DongS 4b *292
29Sunny CornerM 27
30The Anniversary ProblemHVS 5b 2
32FalloutS 4a 15
33SinistraVS 4c 32
34ArtificerHVS 5b 13
35DaedalusHVS 5a 7
36The LeerE3 6a 2
37ArtifactE4 6b 2
38LurchE2 6a 6
39The ArmchairHVS 5a *127
40Beaker RouteHVS 5a *44
41Teahupo'oE8 7a 1
42KafoozalemE3 6a ***127
43Evil EyeE5 6b ***19
44Raven WallE3 5c ***87
45GrendelE2 5c **66
46Pump It UpE3 6a *10
47Saddle TrampE4 6a *9
48PatienceE3 5c **60
49DominatorE2 5c **22
50Zig Zag Optional Start AVS 4c 4
51Zig ZagVS 4c **271
52Western HeroE2 5c 5
54CasalsVS 4b 1
55RostropovitchE2 5b 1
56Du PreVS 4c *1
57Raven Wall Optional StartVS 5a 5
58Yo Yo MaE2 5b 1
59Zig Zag Optional Start BVS 4b 12
60Dominator Optional StartE1 5b 8
61Western Hero Optional StartE2 5c 4
63Autumn FlakesHS 4b **382
64Autumn Flakes/NamelessVS 4c **49
65BroadstairsE2 5b 13
66ParagonHVS 5a **262
67ParadiseE1 5c 10
68NamelessVS 4c ***326
69Nameless/ParagonHVS 5a **15
70BeowulfE2 5c **93
71The PhantomE3 5c *10
72The AbsolutionE5 6c ** 
73Suicide WallE1 5c ***534
75The GhostE3 5b ***109
76VulcanE5 6b * 
77New MediumE4 6a  
78Bow WallE2 5b ***262
79DoorpostHS 4b ***1558
80Doorpost variationHVS 5b 25
81ShaftE3 6b 2
82Permanent WavesE4 5c  
83Thin Wall SpecialE1 5b **351
84The Chicken RunE2 5b 20
85The Boysen VariantE1 5b 3
86Toad Wall SpecialE3 6a 16
87Little Brown JugVS 5a ***1053
88Little Brown Jug (Variation Start)HVS 5a 111
89Feast of FearE6 6b 2
90Thick Wall SpecialE4 5c *12
91Visions of JohannaE1 5b **155
92DoorwayS 4a **875
93ClobVD 138
94VenusbergVS 4c **264
95Anvil ChorusVS 4c ***725
96Jolly Green GiantE2 6a 2
97Ledge ClimbHVD ***616
98AndrewS 4a **503
99The WastelandHVS 5b 11
100The Rib ClimbS 23
101Como CrackS 9
102Sloping SlabS 9
103Sea Wall ExitsVS 4c 5
105Diamond TiaraHVS 5b *3
106String of PearlsE1 5b **9
108MarkHS 4b 46
109T-TourHVS 5b 20
110Fungus FaceE3 6b 10
111TrapezeHVS 5a 91
112The Peck VariantHVS 5a 10
113Big TopVD *534
114Flat TopHS 4b 66
115Simple SimonHS 4b 81
116Poison IvyE3 6a 4
117Crazy Man MichaelVS 4c 15
118PaulineHS 4b 30
119SampanVD 21
120PicnicVS 5a 83
121Picnic VariationVS 5a 8
122Holiday SlabVS 4c 8
123OreadHVD **470
124Oread BypassVD 93
125In-BetweenVD **597
126KateVD *417
127Alison RibD ***1477
128FafnirD 128
129FasoltVD 85
130The Giant StepsVD 14
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