Climbs 123 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude Tidal – Faces W

Crag features
Marvellous lines abound, single- and multi-pitch routes up to 200ft. Often very busy at Easter and Bank Holidays. Many low-grade classics including Doorpost (HS 4b), Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) and Anvil Chorus (VS 4c, much fallen off), and Suicide Wall (E1 5c), with mid-range musts like Bow Wall (E2 5b), Ghost (E3 5b), Vulcan (E5 6b).

Access notes
Tidal in a few areas, but almost all unaffected.

Park at the NT car park off the B3306 (Morvah-Zennor) by the old mine-stack ruins. Follow rocky track N towards sea. Scramble over blocks downwards to find the crag looming on your R. The crag is 300yds long with most of the good routes towards the centre.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
3Hopeless SlabHVS 4c *
4The PessimistE2 5b *
5GeronimoE1 5c *
6Geronimo variationE2 5b
7BoldfingerE2 5b *
8Silas MarnerE2 5b **
9StrikeHVS 5a
10SeasprayE1 5c
12Promontory TraverseS
13Shallow ChimneyD
14Ochre Slab Route IIS 4a *
15Ochre One Point FiveE1 5b
16Ochre Slab Route IVS 4c **
17Black SlabD **
18Red SlabS 4a
19Red Slab AlternativeHS 4b
20Red Slab variationHS 4b
21RaptureVS 4c
22Gollywog's CakewalkHS 4c
23Schorl SlantVD
24BelleVS 4c
25DingVS 4c **
26DungHS 4b
27Ding variantE1 5b
28DongS 4b *
29Sunny CornerM
30The Anniversary ProblemHVS 5b
32FalloutS 4a
33SinistraVS 4c
34ArtificerHVS 5b
35DaedalusHVS 5a
36The LeerE3 6a
37ArtifactE4 6b
38LurchE2 6a
39The ArmchairHVS 5a *
40Beaker RouteHVS 5a *
41Teahupo'oE8 7a
42KafoozalemE3 6a ***
43Evil EyeE4 6b ***
44Raven WallE3 5c **
45GrendelE2 5c *
46Pump It UpE3 6a *
47Saddle TrampE4 6a *
48PatienceE3 5c **
49DominatorE2 5c **
50Zig Zag Optional Start AVS 4c
51Zig ZagVS 4c **
52Western HeroE2 5c
54CasalsVS 4b
55RostropovitchE2 5b
56Du PreVS 4c *
57Raven Wall Optional StartVS 5a
58Yo Yo MaE2 5b
59Zig Zag Optional Start BVS 4b
60Dominator Optional StartE1 5b
61Western Hero Optional StartE2 5c
63Autumn FlakesHS 4b **
64Autumn Flakes/NamelessVS 4c **
65BroadstairsE2 5b
66ParagonHVS 5a **
67ParadiseE1 5c
68NamelessVS 4c *
69Nameless/ParagonHVS 5a **
70BeowulfE2 5c **
71The PhantomE3 5c *
72The AbsolutionE5 6c **
73Suicide WallE1 5c ***
75The GhostE3 5b ***
76VulcanE5 6b *
77New MediumE4 6a
78Bow WallE2 5b ***
79DoorpostHS 4b ***
80Doorpost variationHVS 5b
81ShaftE3 6b
82Permanent WavesE4 5c
83Thin Wall SpecialE1 5b **
84The Chicken RunE2 5b
85The Boysen VariantE1 5b
86Toad Wall SpecialE3 6a
87Little Brown JugVS 5a ***
88Little Brown Jug (Variation Start)HVS 5a
89Feast of FearE6 6b
90Thick Wall SpecialE4 5c *
91Visions of JohannaE1 5b *
92DoorwayS 4a *
94VenusbergVS 4c *
95Anvil ChorusVS 4c **
96Jolly Green GiantE2 6a
97Ledge ClimbVD *
99The WastelandHVS 5b
100The Rib ClimbS
101Como CrackS
102Sloping SlabS
103Sea Wall ExitsVS 4c
105Diamond TiaraHVS 5b *
106String of PearlsE1 5b **
108MarkHS 4b
109T-TourHVS 5b
110Fungus FaceE3 6b
111TrapezeHVS 5a
112The Peck VariantHVS 5a
113Big TopVD *
114Flat TopHS 4b
115Simple SimonHS 4b
116Poison IvyE3 6a
117Crazy Man MichaelVS 4c
118PaulineHS 4b
120PicnicVS 5a
121Picnic VariationVS 5a
122Holiday SlabVS 4c
124Oread BypassVD
127Alison RibD *
130The Giant StepsVD
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