UKC

Climbs 50
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 51m a.s.l
Faces W

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Rob Greenwood on The Dream/Liberator (E3) in the Great Zawn at Bosigran. © Mike Hutton

Crag features

A stunning sweep of immaculate granite in a phenomenal setting and with climbing to do it justice. The routes on the open seaward end are all great classics with committing and exposed climbing including an exciting an novel approach. Around the corner in the depths of the zawn itself are some fine climbs in a much more enclosed setting.

The seaward face dries quickly in the afternoon sun. The east face of the zawn receives very little sun and can take a long time to dry out.

Approach notes

Take the B3306 St. Ives - Pendeen road to the prominent ruined mine buildings of Carn Galver and park in the National Trust car park adjacent to them. Follow the path that heads seaward, initially through bushes and then fields, and over a couple of granite stiles. The path from Carn Galver mine meets the coast path at some remains of old buildings (5 minutes). Just before the ruined building remains, head left towards the ridge across some boggy ground.

Cross Bosigran Ridge and descend 50m down the path before breaking left over heather covered rocks to a short step down a corner that gains a grassy gearing-up ledge high above the zawn. Where the ledge narrows is a good spike from which an abseil can be made into the zawn. The base of the zawn is composed of grass, unstable rock and earth. Care should be taken when moving over this ground to the base of the climbs.

No Access Issues

A very impressive Zawn with four distinct faces (the Seaward Face, West Face, Headwall and East Face) and some super classic routes. Parts of the Zawn are wave washed at high tide when the sea is calm but most is non-tidal - definitely a crag to avoid in rough seas.

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