Maiden's Bluff

Climbs 20 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 90m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
A large stretch of rock, just below the headland consisting of a few excellent bays and a large amount of choss. However, the bays of good rock are excellent, and provide a number of impressive features in an exposed location.

PEX WALL

This is a surprisingly ultra high quality wall, with a good collection of highball routes/ short solos. It is best approached by following the track that breaks off the bend in the road and following it for 2 fields to the edge of the cliff. Continue right, down a little dip and past a wind-swept hawthorn tree. The crag is just here and takes about 10 mins to walk to from the bend.

Moves are generally extremely beta-dependent and exquisite. Despite the regular patterning of the wall, the moves are varied in style and sequences can be pretty sustained. The home of strong fingers, body position and footwork.

Access notes
Park in Goldsborough and walk in via a track through a field to the east. Once on the Cleveland way, turn right and the best rock is just below the path.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RED WALL  
2Sky BurialE10 6c ***2
3Sunrise Wall (project)E12 7a/b? *** 
 WHITE WALL  
5Splice the MainbraceE5 6a *1
6The Maiden's BluffS  
 PEX WALL  
8JugendstilE5 6b *4
9Gates of TomorrowE6 6b 1
10Living on a Razor's EdgeE6 6c 2
11ArchaeopteryxE6 6c *3
12PlasticmanE7 7a **1
13Futuristic Hering Gull ProjectE8 7a? **1
 DEER WALLS  
 NORTHERN SHELF  
 BOULDERS  
 NORTH CLIFF  
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These details were last updated on 20/Mar/2014
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