Climbs 53
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 204m a.s.l
Faces S

A 3* classic! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

A very good crag for the sub-E1 climber, plus some thuggy delights for those on E2 or above. The rock is mostly good but beware the organ-pipe shapes: these can be unstable.

Multi-pitch routes up to 200ft, including the very popular Wrinkle (VD), Crackstone Rib (S), Overlapping Wall (E1 5c), Erosion Groove Direct (E2 5c) and - for the thugs - Zangorilla (E4 6a).

Approach notes

Up the Pass between Clogwyn y Grochan and further down from the Cromlech, opposite the Climbers' Club hut on the south side of the Pass.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Rock climbing in Snowdonia (1990)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Carreg Wastad Fach 
2Question Mark
-
VS 4c 2
3Dave's RouteHS 3
 Carreg Wastad 
 The Wrinkle 
6SkylonHS 4b **924
7The WrinkleVD **1195
8Sun Valley
-
HVS 5a 34
9California Raisins
-
E2 5b 1
10First Test
-
VS 4c *44
11Gryphon
-
HVS 5b *21
12Brute 33E3 6a *13
13Unicorn Direct
-
HVS 5a *29
14UnicornHVS 5b *86
15ElidorE1 5b *52
16LionVS 4c **232
17Overlapping WallE1 5b **224
18Overhanging Chimney Variation
-
VS 4c **111
19Jayway
-
E3 5c 2
20Overhanging Buttress
-
E4 5c 2
21The Crevice
-
VS 4c 13
22Rackstone Crib
-
VS 4b *37
23Slipstone Slab
-
VS 4c 4
24Crackstone RibS 4a ***2048
25Rottish Monk
-
HVS 5a 3
26Ribstone CrackVS 4c **535
 Shadow Wall 
28Erosion Groove
-
HVS 5a 55
29Erosion Groove DirectE2 5c **91
30Twisted SisterE3 5c *8
31Shadow WallVS 4c ***789
32Yellow CrackHVS 5b *71
33ZangorillaE4 6a **35
34TrilonHVS 5b *71
35Goldcrest
-
E1 5b *11
36Quasimodo
-
E1 5b 5
37Yew Link
-
HVS 5b 2
38Old HolbornE1 5b **200
39Bole Way
-
VS 4c *58
40Bole Way, Original Finish
-
VS 4b 5
41Bole Way, Left-hand Finish
-
HVS 5b 1
42Dead Entrance
-
VD 5
43Main Scoop Route
-
HS 4b 11
44Main Scoop Route, Koala Finish
-
HVS 5b 1
45Peeping Tom
-
E3 5c 1
46Cornix
-
HVS 4c 16
47The Castle
-
VS 4c 5
48Halan
-
HS 4b 7
49Spekes ButtressVS 4c **4
50The New Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
51The Old Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
52bryants gully2 *34
 Clogwyn Tyllau 
54Ampyx (Clogwyn Tyllau)
-
VS 5
 Bouldering 
56Jerry's WallV6 **23
57Jerry's Wall SSV8 **25

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