Climbs 89
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 215m a.s.l
Faces S

Kevin in flight from Cockblock. © stuart100

Crag features

A long crag with many excellent multi-pitch routes, and some single-pitch gems, up to 370ft. Beware vagabond suicidal sheep and slippery non-pitches; many people abseil off after a couple of pitches as some routes deteriorate in character towards the end.

Usually less crowded than the Cromlech on any given day, with enough offerings in the VS-HVS range to accommodate plenty of parties.

Routes to do include Phantom Rib (VS 4c), Spectre (HVS 5a), Slape Direct (E1 5c) and for the tough the fierce testpiece Cockblock (E5 6b).

Approach notes

Easily reached up the scree slopes from the road; the main problem is finding somewhere to park in the Pass.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Rock climbing in Snowdonia (1990)

Out of print:
Any comments on the following routes for the forthcoming guide? God told me to do it Spectrological arete - unprotected E5 6a when climbed from the deck? This route was originally supposed to ave been climbed from bottom of the arete and graded E2. Something doesn't stack up! Comments FB madonna - E grade comments Pus- any ascents ? Pump direct E grade Wang E4 or E3
dai lampard - 10/Sep/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Nea 
2BogtrottingE4 6a *1
3The Yuppification of DeiniolenE4 6b *1
4GrochanspielE1 5b 2
5Delphos
-
HVS 5a *24
6Last of the Summer, Whine
-
HVS 5a 3
7Hazel Groove
-
HS 4b *72
8Hazel Groove, Direct Start
-
VS 4b 19
9Phantom RibVS 4c **1039
10Wang
-
E3 6b *1
11NeaVS 4b **1179
12God Told Me to Do It
-
E5 6a  
13The Revenge
-
E2 5c 1
14The Vendetta
-
E1 5b *13
15SpectreHVS 5a ***815
16FB Madonna
-
E5 6b 2
17SpectrumE2 5c ***162
18Spectrological Arete
-
E3 5c  
19C Minor
-
E2 5c 3
20Pus
-
E4 6b *4
21Strapiombo Direct
-
E2 5c *5
22Strapiombo
-
HVS 5b *8
23Goat's Gully
-
VS 4b 2
 Brant Direct 
25The Scapegoat
-
E1 5b 1
26Cunning Stunts
-
E3 5c 12
27S S SpecialE2 5b ***507
28S S special / SickleE1 5b 12
29SickleHVS 5b **236
30Venturi EffectE5 6a *9
31Brant DirectHVS 5a ***1094
32CockblockE5 6b ***96
33Dried Voices
-
E5 6b 2
34The PumpE4 6b **30
35Plus 4
-
E4 6a 5
36Slape DirectE2 5c **341
37First AmendmentE2 5c **187
38First Amendment 1st pitch onlyE1 5c 21
39Horizontal Departure
-
E4 5c  
40BrantVS 4c **687
41Corruption
-
E3 6a 9
42Surplomb
-
E2 6a **132
43Pus in Boots
-
E3 6a 2
44Surplomb, Right-hand Finish
-
E4 6a *1
45Slape
-
VS 5a *70
 Kaisergebirge Wall 
47Roll On
-
E3 5c *12
48Stroll OnE3 6a ***279
49HangoverE1 5b ***431
50The GlumE2 5c  
51Leftover
-
E3 6a *11
52QuasarE3 6a ***193
53Quantum Jump
-
E5 6b 24
54Mural
-
E4 6a *53
55Mural, Scavenger's Daughter Finish
-
E4 6a * 
56Karwendel WallHVS 5b **309
57Al Fresco
-
E4 6a 2
58Kaisergebirge WallHVS 5b **477
59WindHVS 5b **489
60Advert
-
E3 5c 3
61Babel
-
HVS 5a 24
62Second Wind
-
E4 6a  
63Ledge Way
-
VD 3
64Central Gully
-
HS 4a 2
65Central Gully, Left-hand Variation
-
VS 4b  
66Central Gully, Super-Direct
-
HVS 5b  
67N'Gombo
-
E1 5a 9
68Long Tree Gate
-
VS 4c 12
69Fear and Loathing
-
E1 5a  
70Toots Direction
-
E3 6a 1
71Ochre Groove
-
E1 5b *27
72Gizzard Puke
-
E1 5b  
73Slime Wall
-
VS 4c 1
74Broad Walk
-
VS 4c 2
75Perygl
-
E4 6a  
76The Worst Route I've Ever Done
-
E2 5a  
77Scrambler's Gate
-
S 3c 17
78Jawbone
-
E3 5c  
79Fa
-
S 4a 1
80Fatha
-
VS 4b  
81Drama Queen
-
HS 4b  
82Control Freak
-
E1 5b  
83Ground Zero
-
E1 5b  
84The Gorse Course
-
VS 4c 2
85Divertimento
-
E2 5c 1
86Sunset Boulevard
-
HVS 5a 4
87Bluebell Traverse
-
S 4a 1
88Cauldron Gully
-
IV 3
89Little Groover
-
E1 5b 24
90Unamed crackVS 2
91Pokey Little PuppyE6 6b *3

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