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Aiguilles RougesHaute Savoie, FRANCE
Climbs 219 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude 2965m a.s.l – Faces S
Gneiss and granite routes up to 350m long on the north side (south facing) of the Chamonix valley. Sometimes fully bolted, sometimes not. The Alpine grading system (note, this is alpine rock grading, not to be confused with general mountaineering grading, which use the same adjectives...!) has been used throughout to remain consistent - with the exception of the crags of the Brévent and Les Chézerys, where French crag grades are more appropriate.
These are small scale alpine rock routes with no glaciers, but often persistent névés, well into the summer. Crampons occasionally needed. Usually, however, approaches can be done in trainers. Nearly all these routes are generally climbed in rock boots.
Note that climbs to the east of Les Chézerys (ie Mesure and Praz-Torrent) are not featured in Piola Vol 1. The Aiguilles Rouges Vol 2 is now out and covers this area, the Berard Valley and Les Perrons.
The main Brévent crag under the top station of the téléphérique faces south and east and has six superb multipitch routes. The Brévent Crags comprise two single pitch east facing crags. The Brévent Buttresses are south facing isolated crags with multipitch routes. There are no glaciers but there are often persistent névés, well into the summer. Crampons occasionally needed. Usually, however, approaches can be done in trainers. All these routes are generally climbed in rock boots.
Climbs at this crag
Access from the Brévent or Flégère télépheriques or on foot from Chamonix, Argentière, Tré le Champ, the Col des Montets or Le Buet. Nature reserve but climbing allowed. Beware of the ibex at les Chezerys - they'll have your lunch...