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Aiguilles RougesHaute Savoie, FRANCE
Climbs 230 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude 2965m a.s.l – Faces S
Gneiss and granite routes up to 350m long on the north side (south facing) of the Chamonix valley. Sometimes fully bolted, sometimes not. The Alpine grading system (note, this is alpine rock grading, not to be confused with general mountaineering grading, which use the same adjectives...!) has been used throughout to remain consistent - with the exception of the crags of the Brévent and Les Chéserys, where French crag grades are more appropriate.
These are small scale alpine rock routes with no glaciers, but often persistent névés, well into the summer. Crampons occasionally needed. Usually, however, approaches can be done in trainers. Nearly all these routes are generally climbed in rock boots.
Note that climbs to the east of Les Chéserys (i.e. Mesure and Praz-Torrent) are not featured in Piola Vol 1. The Aiguilles Rouges Vol 2 is now out and covers this area, the Berard Valley and Les Perrons.
The main Brévent multi-pitch crag under the top station of the téléphérique faces south and east and has six superb multipitch routes. The single-pitch Brévent Crags comprise two east facing crags. The Brévent Buttresses are south facing isolated crags with multipitch routes.
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Access from the Brévent or Flégère télépheriques or on foot from Chamonix, Argentière, Tré le Champ, the Col des Montets or Le Buet. Nature reserve but climbing allowed. Beware of the ibex at les Chezerys - they'll have your lunch...
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