UKC

Climbs 265
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 2965m a.s.l
Faces S

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Stood on the L'Aiguillette d'Argentiere © tony4433

Crag features

NOTE: This database replaces all others for individual crags in the Aiguilles Rouges area - with the exception of the valley crags of Les Gaillands, Monolith de la Chauffria, la Joux and the bouldering on the col des Montets.

Gneiss and granite routes up to 350m long on the north side (south facing) of the Chamonix valley. Sometimes fully bolted, sometimes not. The Alpine grading system (note, this is alpine rock grading, not to be confused with general mountaineering grading, which use the same adjectives...!) has been used throughout to remain consistent - with the exception of the crags of the Brévent and Les Chéserys, where French crag grades are more appropriate.

These are small scale alpine rock routes with no glaciers, but often persistent névés, well into the summer. Crampons occasionally needed. Usually, however, approaches can be done in trainers. Nearly all these routes are generally climbed in rock boots.

The main Brévent multi-pitch crag under the top station of the téléphérique faces south and east and has six superb multipitch routes. The single-pitch Brévent Crags comprise two east facing crags. The Brévent Buttresses are south facing isolated crags with multipitch routes.

The crag listing as of August 2016 is in accordance with the comprehensive Piola guides Les Aiguilles Rouges vol 1 (2008) and vol 2 (2012).  However a new edition of vol 2 (in English) has been published in 2016 with some new routes.

Approach notes

Approach from the Brévent or Flégère télépheriques or on foot from Chamonix, Argentière, Tré le Champ, the Col des Montets or Le Buet. Nature reserve but climbing allowed. Beware of the ibex at les Chezerys - they'll have your lunch...

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Climbs at this crag

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