17 – Rocktype
Limestone – Altitude
163m a.s.l – Faces
Single pitch bolted limestone recently developed. Awaiting further information from the climbers who have put up the new lines.
Crag info has been reproduced from a post by UKC user pauldrew with thanks.
Route names and final grades/stars to be added at a later date.
Approach notesAccess notes
The crag currently has thirteen routes from about 4+ to 6c(+), they are all well bolted and up to 12
The crag currently has thirteen routes from about 4+ to 6c(+), they are all well bolted and up to 12 – 14 M high. Not huge obviously, some routes have the odd loose bit at the start but decent climbing above; mostly the routes are in the 6a – 6b range with two 6c’s and three or four about 4+ - 5+, all the routes have stainless steel double lower offs apart from one which needs to be re-threaded and all are well bolted. The grades listed are based upon five or six visits to the crag by various Chester Mountaineering Club members and might be soft.
Crag is located at 288E 377N and the best approaches are;
1. Park as for Castle Inn and walk back down the road about 100M to a gate on the left leading down to what appears to be a ruined farm, go through the gate and down through the farm yard. Go through a second gate
(currently in poor condition!) to a grassy track, follow the track for a short distance and look for a footpath and small swing gate on the right. Follow this path through a small wood to a style, immediately before the style take a vague path on the right up to the crag, to arrive at the main bit at the bottom of route 4 below.
2. Park as for Castle Inn and walk back down the road past the gate to the farm and take the second road on the left past some houses and into a small industrial/commercial site. Walk between the two buildings at the end
and cross over a style on the left behind them. Follow a vague path to the right and keeping the hedgerow on your right side follow the path into the small wood, go over the style then take the vague path on the left up to
the crag, again arriving at route 4.
3. It is also possible to use the above approach (2) to arrive at the top of the crag; after going over the first style behind the buildings continue across the field up the small hill and look for a path down to bottom of the crag currently bit muddy due to sheep. Once over this you are at the extreme left of the crag and a path soon leads to the first route.
The routes are described from L to R and the names are currently unknown (except one). First ascents and development was done by Norman Clacher and Tony Shelmerdine. Crag can be vegetated but currently clean but needs traffic to keep this way. The rock at the start of a few of the routes should be treated carefully.
North Wales Limestone (2014)
Climbs at this crag
Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows
| USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments |
|The chains on the 'farm' gate look serious, but they are only clipped, not locked, and this is a public footpath so no access issue.
The route of the path at the other end (option 2) is even more intimidating where it passes between the brewery buildings, but again this is a public right of way (and so should be signposted better).|
Ron Rees Davies - 21/Jul/15
|After climbing at Castle Inn yesterday (14/2/2015) we were going to have a look at Marian Bach. However the metal farm gates on approach 1 above were chained shut...not sure whether there are recent access issues, and weren't sure of the other approaches, so left it for another day.|
Paul Evans - 15/Feb/15
|As one of the crag developers I'm puzzled by some of the comments below. Loose rock? As far as I am aware there are now only 2 loose blocks at the crag and neither can be removed. Bolts too small? Too small for what? Its true that the crag gets quickly vegetated and requires repeated cleaning so please do your bit!|
rockcat - 03/Jul/14
|With ref to the previous post about the farm; that's why the info I originally wrote states "appears to be" not just "a ruined".|
jim jones - 26/May/14
|Visited on the 18th May, just a quick note that the farm isn't abandoned, we ran into the owner today and had a quick chat. Its public right of way, but just be sure to close gates etc. Good crag, however needs some traffic as there is still alot of loose rock. Take a helmet!|
ScottStephen88 - 18/May/14
|visited this crag on 15 may. Agree with comments on bolt size,this appears to be a growing trend in n wales.Crag is already getting overgrown and will need lots of traffic--take your secateurs and do your bit!!grades basically ok route 13 is F5.|
Angry old man - 15/May/14
|I commend people for taking the time and effort to bolt new lines. I've noticed however that here and at other A55 sport locations that the steel diameter used in the bolts is too small.|
DDDD - 08/May/14
|I'm pretty sure there's a Bumble Bee nest under a rock under route 13. Bee careful! lol Maybee a good name for the route? Just a suggestion ha|
Sebastian Fontleroy - 04/May/14
|The first approach given is both the shortest and most logical. The routes are worthwhile but many appear to be over-graded: For instance route 3 = F4+ / 5 = F6a / 7 = F5 / 10 = F5 / 11 = F6a / 13 = F4|
rockcat - 21/Apr/14