Single pitch bolted limestone recently developed. Awaiting further information from the climbers who have put up the new lines.
Crag info has been reproduced from a post by UKC user pauldrew with thanks.
Route names and final grades/stars to be added at a later date.
The crag currently has thirteen routes from about 4+ to 6c(+), they are all well bolted and up to 12 – 14 M high. Not huge obviously, some routes have the odd loose bit at the start but decent climbing above; mostly the routes are in the 6a – 6b range with two 6c’s and three or four about 4+ - 5+, all the routes have stainless steel double lower offs apart from one which needs to be re-threaded and all are well bolted. The grades listed are based upon five or six visits to the crag by various Chester Mountaineering Club members and might be soft.
Crag is located at 288E 377N and the best approaches are;
1. Park as for Castle Inn and walk back down the road about 100M to a gate on the left leading down to what appears to be a ruined farm, go through the gate and down through the farm yard. Go through a second gate
(currently in poor condition!) to a grassy track, follow the track for a short distance and look for a footpath and small swing gate on the right. Follow this path through a small wood to a style, immediately before the style take a vague path on the right up to the crag, to arrive at the main bit at the bottom of route 4 below.
2. Park as for Castle Inn and walk back down the road past the gate to the farm and take the second road on the left past some houses and into a small industrial/commercial site. Walk between the two buildings at the end
and cross over a style on the left behind them. Follow a vague path to the right and keeping the hedgerow on your right side follow the path into the small wood, go over the style then take the vague path on the left up to
the crag, again arriving at route 4.
3. It is also possible to use the above approach (2) to arrive at the top of the crag; after going over the first style behind the buildings continue across the field up the small hill and look for a path down to bottom of the crag currently bit muddy due to sheep. Once over this you are at the extreme left of the crag and a path soon leads to the first route.
The routes are described from L to R and the names are currently unknown (except one). First ascents and development was done by Norman Clacher and Tony Shelmerdine. Crag can be vegetated but currently clean but needs traffic to keep this way. The rock at the start of a few of the routes should be treated carefully.
North Wales Limestone (2014)
|1||High Speed Virgins||5b||17|
|5||Crazy Sexy Fool||6a+||14|
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