The Dewerstone

Climbs 147 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Varied, vegetated at the bottom. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Comprises six main separate buttresses. Not much for those climbing above E2. Great routes include Central Groove (HS 4b) and Climber's Club Direct (HVS 5a).

Access notes
From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym.

>From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L.

From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).

The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995), Rustypeg website, Javu website new routes

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Bruised HeelsE1 5b
2Bruised FeelingsVS 4c
3Slapping Flapping Faffing FatherE1 5a
4trapeziumE2 5b
5Dr GreenthumbsHVS 5a
6WindowpaneVS 4c *
7Tower CrackHS 4b **
8WindowsillHS 4a ***
9Window SlitVD **
10Wobbling WallE1 5b *
11Twittering CrackHVS 5a
12Saint's NicheS 4b
13Agag's DirectS 4a
14Agag's SlabD
15The Garden PathD
16NoddyVS 4b
17GoblinVS 4c
18Mambo SlabVD
19ElfVS 4b
20Caesar's NoseS 4a
21Cadbury's FlakeS 4a
22Halcyon DazeE1 5b
23Hagar the HorribleE3 5c *
24GnasherHVS 5b
25Holly Tree Wall DirectHVS 5a
26Rufty TuftyE1 5b
27Holly Tree WallD
28Pinnacle ChimneyVD 3c
29TroyHVS 4c
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS 
31Pinnacle Buttress DirectHS 4a
32Pinnacle ButtressVD
33Mucky GullyD
34Reverse CleftS 4a
35Colonel's CavortHS 4a
36Colonel's AreteVD ***
37SayonaraHVS 5a
38If I Should Fall From Grace With GodE3 5c
39Dark CleftVD
40The EchoHVS 5a
41KernowS 4b
42The TunnelD
43Suspension WallS
44The High TraverseVD
45Wrath of GrapesE3 5c
46VineyardVS 4b
47Vineyard VariationS 4b
48Inkspots HangoverHVS 5b *
49Pinkspots HeadacheE1 5b
 MAIN FACE 
51Cretin's CavortHVS 5a
52LeviathanVS 4c ***
53Extendable ArmsE1 5c,5b *
54ValaHVS 5a **
55Return from the KurdsE1 5c
56Central GrooveHS 4b ***
57ScimitarE1 5b *
58Scimitar DirectE1 5b ***
59FruitflancaseE1 5a ***
60GideonE1 5b ***
61Energy CrisisE4 6a
62Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***
63Ultimate EliminateE2 5c
64Climbers' Club Super DirectE1 5b
65granite guruE5 6b *
66Halls of IllusionE5 6a
67Globe and LaurelHVS 5a
68Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **
69Beel LineHVS 5a
70Route BHVD *
71KnucklecrackerHS 4a
72Cornish ReprieveHVS 5a *
73Lateral ThinkingE1 5c
74The Admiral's TraverseVD
75Cornish ReverseVS 4c
76CleopatraVS 4c
77PortalS 4b
 NEEDLE BUTTRESS 
79Needle AreteVD ***
80The CamelHS 4a *
81The StitchE1 5b
82CyclopsHVS 5a **
83ScorpionHS 4b
84Final TouchE1 5c
85Final Touch DirectE3 6a
86ExaltationHVS 5a
87BabylonS 4a
88WinnetHVS 5a
89Shades of GreenHVS 5b
90Wire BrushVS 4c
91In ExtremisHVS 5a
92Short and SnappyE2 5b
93Left ChimneyD
94Crème BrouléeE4 5c
95La Crème NoireE5 6b **
96La Bête NoireE1 5b
97Meilleurs Chiens du MondeE1 5b *
98Sloppy GullyD
99The BewildernessE1 5b
100YogiHVS 5b *
101Valhalla WallHVS 5a
102Valhalla Wall DirectE1 5b
 RAVEN BUTTRESS 
104Fly On The WallHS 4b **
105Brown LegsE1 5b
106ImperialistHVS 5a
107Black WidowE1 5b
108Silken Thread/ImperialistHVS 5a **
109Silken ThreadHVS 5a
110Smash or GrabE3 6a
111TarantulaHVS 5b *
112ShelobE1 5b
113Spider's WebHVS 5a ***
114Mango CornerVS 4c
115BorisVS 4c
116Back to NatureVS 4c
117Raven FaceVD 4a *
118RandyVS 4c,4c *
119Safe SexHVS 5a
120Yosemite SamVS 4b
121YosemiteVS 4c
122CyberpunkHVS 5a
123ArmadaHS 4a
124The Mammoth RoofHVS
125BolshevikHVS 5b
126Search for the Ultimate JacuzziHVS 5a
127Corner ChimneyHVS 5a
128Grunting in the GutterE1 5b
129Dragon SongE3 6a **
130Dragon Song Variation FinishE3 5c
131The DanglerE1 5b *
132ApparitionHVS 5b
133NibelungE1 5b
134Al denteVS 4c
135Agag,s slabD **
136Bee LineHVS 4b,5a
137agags slabD
138colonels areteVD
139agags directS 4a **
140Ceasars NoseS
141Window PaneVS 4c
142Caesers NoseS
143Ultimate Eliminate DirectE3 5c **
144Piglet Wall Direct StartE5 6b **
145MambowlineS 4a
146Agags Forgotten BrotherHD
147The Admiral's HoleS ***
148Tower Stairs *M
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK 
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer theterrorwheel

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
incredible venue, shadowed slightly by so many punters rocking up. Had some mongoloid throwing rocks towards the river when we arrived nearly hitting us.
Stanners - 27/Sep/14
A delightful day out at one of Dartmoor's finest venues, namely The Dewerstone in South West Devon, on one of the crag classics called "Central Groove" which is surely one the best climbs of it's grade at Hard Severe in the UK. Set in the magical ancient wooded valley of Shaugh Prior by the babbling River Plym, The Dewerstone is home to numerous gorgeous granite climbs throughout the grades and hopefully this short film will inspire a few folks to pay a visit to sample some of the delights on offer! :-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6nVM-5_04U
BALD EAGLE - 18/Jul/14
Repeated mann9076's new E1. Nice new route, good to see new stuff appearing from under the moss! Nice route, get on it!
Tom Last - 01/Jun/14
Two new routes climbed this week on In Extremis Buttress above Needle Buttress. Will Hornby did La Crme Noire which takes the obvious wall between Crme Brle and La Bte Noire. Not sure of grade yet but quite hard and with cunning gear. Meilleurs Chiens du Monde takes the arete and wall right of La Bte Noire. These routes are both worth doing and are clean right now as is La Bte Noire. Make the walk up the hill and get on them!
James Mann - 31/May/14
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13
climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11
Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
It's 'classic' as you say, but we say 'traditional' more often. no bolts so friends etc are the key- happy climbing!
w.pettet-smith - 23/Jan/08
Hi, one question please, this area is sportive climbing or classic climbing? Its necessary paravolts and friends? Thanks
Xavi_ivaX - 29/Jan/07
Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06
Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06
From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06
Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05
Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05
Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04