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View larger mapGrid Ref SX 539638 (OS Landranger #201)

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These details were last updated on 06/Oct/2013

The Dewerstone

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 147 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Varied, vegetated at the bottom. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Comprises six main separate buttresses. Not much for those climbing above E2. Great routes include Central Groove (HS 4b) and Climber's Club Direct (HVS 5a).

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
16 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
23 kph

6.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
26 kph

4.5mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
14 kph

2.1mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
28 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995), Rustypeg website, Javu website new routes

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Bruised HeelsE1 5b 1
2Bruised FeelingsVS 4c  
3Slapping Flapping Faffing FatherE1 5a  
4OblongE2 5b 1
5Dr GreenthumbsHVS 5a  
6WindowpaneVS 4c 45
7Tower CrackHS 4B **90
8WindowsillHS 4a 23
9Window SlitVD *115
10Wobbling WallE1 5b *17
11Twittering CrackHVS 5a 35
12Saint's NicheS 4b 117
13Agag's DirectS 4a 241
14Agag's SlabD 424
15The Garden PathD 17
16NoddyVS 4b 29
17GoblinVS 4c 147
18Mambo SlabVD 338
19ElfVS 4b 35
20Caesar's NoseS 4a 335
21Cadbury's FlakeS 4a 28
22Halcyon DazeE1 5b  
23Hagar the HorribleE3 5c *8
24GnasherHVS 5b 6
25Holly Tree Wall DirectHVS 5a 96
26Rufty TuftyE1 5b 19
27Holly Tree WallD 287
28Pinnacle ChimneyVD 3c 223
29TroyHVS 4c 16
30Pinnacle Buttress DirectHS 4a 167
31Pinnacle ButtressVD 330
32Mucky GullyD 788
33Reverse CleftS 4a 307
34Colonel's CavortHS 4a 83
35Colonel's AreteVD ***689
36SayonaraHVS 5a  
37If I Should Fall From Grace With GodE3 5c  
38Dark CleftVD 10
39The EchoHVS 5a 2
40KernowS 4b 8
41The TunnelD 28
42Suspension WallS 6
43The High TraverseVD 21
44Wrath of GrapesE3 5c 1
45VineyardVS 4b 247
46Vineyard VariationS 4b 4
47Inkspots HangoverHVS 5b *30
48Pinkspots HeadacheE1 5b 1
49Cretin's CavortHVS 5a 64
50LeviathanVS 4c ***682
51Extendable ArmsE1 5c,5b *11
52ValaHVS 5a **281
53Return from the KurdsE1 5c 5
54Central GrooveHS 4b ***1261
55ScimitarE1 5b *48
56Scimitar DirectE1 5b ***51
57FruitflancaseE1 5a ***124
58GideonE1 5b ***94
59Energy CrisisE4 6a 1
60Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***312
61Ultimate EliminateE2 5c 1
62Climbers' Club Super DirectE1 5b 14
63Piglet WallE5 6b *5
64Halls of IllusionE5 6a  
65Globe and LaurelHVS 5a 9
66Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **392
67Beel LineHVS 5a 11
68Route BHVD *413
69KnucklecrackerHS 4a 11
70Cornish ReprieveHVS 5a *9
71Lateral ThinkingE1 5c 1
 Climb nameGradex
72The Admiral's TraverseVD 18
73Cornish ReverseVS 4c 1
74CleopatraVS 4c 10
75PortalS 4b 59
76Needle AreteVD ***512
77The CamelHS 4a *85
78The StitchE1 5b 8
79CyclopsHVS 5a **70
80ScorpionHS 4b 27
81Final TouchE1 5c 2
82Final Touch DirectE3 6a  
83ExaltationHVS 5a 3
84BabylonS 4a 4
85WinnetHVS 5a  
86Shades of GreenHVS 5b 1
87Wire BrushVS 4c  
88In ExtremisHVS 5a 8
89Short and SnappyE2 5b  
90Left ChimneyD 2
91Crème BrouléeE4 5c 1
92La Bête NoireE1 5b 9
93Sloppy GullyD 13
94The BewildernessE1 5b 1
95YogiHVS 5b *10
96Valhalla WallHVS 5a 30
97Valhalla Wall DirectE1 5b 8
98Fly On The WallHS 4b **320
99Brown LegsE1 5b 4
100ImperialistHVS 5a 36
101Black WidowE1 5b 8
102Silken Thread/ImperialistHVS 5a **43
103Silken ThreadHVS 5a 26
104Smash or GrabE3 6a 1
105TarantulaHVS 5b *17
106ShelobE1 5b 1
107Spider's WebHVS 5a ***160
108Mango CornerVS 4c 27
109BorisVS 4c 6
110Back to NatureVS 4c 4
111Raven FaceVD 4a *117
112RandyVS 4c,4c *27
113Safe SexHVS 5a 5
114Yosemite SamVS 4b 7
115YosemiteVS 4c 2
116CyberpunkHVS 5a 4
117ArmadaHS 4a 93
118The Mammoth RoofHVS  
119BolshevikHVS 5b 7
120Search for the Ultimate JacuzziHVS 5a 9
121Corner ChimneyHVS 5a 7
122Grunting in the GutterE1 5b  
123Dragon SongE3 6a **5
124Dragon Song Variation FinishE3 5c 1
125The DanglerE1 5b *4
126ApparitionHVS 5b 2
127NibelungE1 5b 1
128Al denteVS 4c 4
129Agag,s slabD **35
130Bee LineHVS 4b,5a 14
131agags slabD 20
132colonels areteVD 36
133agags directS 4a **12
134Ceasars NoseS 43
135Window PaneVS 4c 13
136Caesers NoseS 12
137Ultimate Eliminate DirectE3 5c **1
138Piglet Wall Direct StartE5 6b **1
139MambowlineS 4a 1
140Agags Forgotten BrotherHD 6
141The Admiral's HoleS ***4
142Tower Stairs *M 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym.

>From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L.

From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).

The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer El3ctroFuzz

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13

climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11

Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11

24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11

It's 'classic' as you say, but we say 'traditional' more often. no bolts so friends etc are the key- happy climbing!
w.pettet-smith - 23/Jan/08

Hi, one question please, this area is sportive climbing or classic climbing? Its necessary paravolts and friends? Thanks
Xavi_ivaX - 29/Jan/07

Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06

Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06

From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06

Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05

Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05

Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04