The Dewerstone

Climbs 147 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Varied, vegetated at the bottom. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Comprises six main separate buttresses. Not much for those climbing above E2. Great routes include Central Groove (HS 4b) and Climber's Club Direct (HVS 5a).

Access notes
From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym.

>From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L.

From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).

The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995), Javu website new routes, Rustypeg website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Bruised HeelsE1 5b 1
2Bruised FeelingsVS 4c  
3Slapping Flapping Faffing FatherE1 5a  
4trapeziumE2 5b 1
5Dr GreenthumbsHVS 5a  
6WindowpaneVS 4c *50
7Tower CrackHS 4b **100
8WindowsillHS 4a ***26
9Window SlitVD **126
10Wobbling WallE1 5b *18
11Twittering CrackHVS 5a 41
12Saint's NicheS 4b 131
13Agag's DirectS 4a 265
14Agag's SlabD 468
15The Garden PathD 18
16NoddyVS 4b 31
17GoblinVS 4c 167
18Mambo SlabVD 369
19ElfVS 4b 36
20Caesar's NoseS 4a 372
21Cadbury's FlakeS 4a 32
22Halcyon DazeE1 5b  
23Hagar the HorribleE3 5c *8
24GnasherHVS 5b 7
25Holly Tree Wall DirectHVS 5a 103
26Rufty TuftyE1 5b 22
27Holly Tree WallD 322
28Pinnacle ChimneyVD 3c 242
29TroyHVS 4c 19
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS  
31Pinnacle Buttress DirectHS 4a 191
32Pinnacle ButtressVD 391
33Mucky GullyD 887
34Reverse CleftS 4a 348
35Colonel's CavortHS 4a 90
36Colonel's AreteVD ***766
37SayonaraHVS 5a  
38If I Should Fall From Grace With GodE3 5c  
39Dark CleftVD 10
40The EchoHVS 5a 2
41KernowS 4b 10
42The TunnelD 28
43Suspension WallS 6
44The High TraverseVD 23
45Wrath of GrapesE3 5c 1
46VineyardVS 4b 280
47Vineyard VariationS 4b 6
48Inkspots HangoverHVS 5b *30
49Pinkspots HeadacheE1 5b 1
 MAIN FACE  
51Cretin's CavortHVS 5a 73
52LeviathanVS 4c ***784
53Extendable ArmsE1 5c,5b *12
54ValaHVS 5a **323
55Return from the KurdsE1 5c 5
56Central GrooveHS 4b ***1438
57ScimitarE1 5b *61
58Scimitar DirectE1 5b ***59
59FruitflancaseE1 5a ***140
60GideonE1 5b ***102
61Energy CrisisE4 6a 1
62Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***364
63Ultimate EliminateE2 5c 1
64Climbers' Club Super DirectE1 5b 15
65granite guruE5 6b *6
66Halls of IllusionE5 6a  
67Globe and LaurelHVS 5a 10
68Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **448
69Beel LineHVS 5a 11
70Route BHVD *492
71KnucklecrackerHS 4a 14
72Cornish ReprieveHVS 5a *9
73Lateral ThinkingE1 5c 1
74The Admiral's TraverseVD 19
75Cornish ReverseVS 4c 1
76CleopatraVS 4c 10
77PortalS 4b 62
 NEEDLE BUTTRESS  
79Needle AreteVD ***576
80The CamelHS 4a *90
81The StitchE1 5b 9
82CyclopsHVS 5a **79
83ScorpionHS 4b 28
84Final TouchE1 5c 2
85Final Touch DirectE3 6a  
86ExaltationHVS 5a 3
87BabylonS 4a 4
88WinnetHVS 5a 1
89Shades of GreenHVS 5b 1
90Wire BrushVS 4c  
91In ExtremisHVS 5a 8
92Short and SnappyE2 5b  
93Left ChimneyD 2
94Crème BrouléeE4 5c 3
95La Crème NoireE5 6b **3
96La Bête NoireE1 5b 21
97Meilleurs Chiens du MondeE1 5b *10
98Sloppy GullyD 13
99The BewildernessE1 5b 1
100YogiHVS 5b *12
101Valhalla WallHVS 5a 34
102Valhalla Wall DirectE1 5b 8
 RAVEN BUTTRESS  
104Fly On The WallHS 4b **362
105Brown LegsE1 5b 4
106ImperialistHVS 5a 39
107Black WidowE1 5b 9
108Silken Thread/ImperialistHVS 5a **59
109Silken ThreadHVS 5a 28
110Smash or GrabE3 6a 1
111TarantulaHVS 5b *18
112ShelobE1 5b 1
113Spider's WebHVS 5a ***179
114Mango CornerVS 4c 30
115BorisVS 4c 6
116Back to NatureVS 4c 5
117Raven FaceVD 4a *138
118RandyVS 4c,4c *32
119Safe SexHVS 5a 5
120Yosemite SamVS 4b 7
121YosemiteVS 4c 2
122CyberpunkHVS 5a 4
123ArmadaHS 4a 97
124The Mammoth RoofHVS  
125BolshevikHVS 5b 7
126Search for the Ultimate JacuzziHVS 5a 9
127Corner ChimneyHVS 5a 7
128Grunting in the GutterE1 5b  
129Dragon SongE3 6a **7
130Dragon Song Variation FinishE3 5c 1
131The DanglerE1 5b *4
132ApparitionHVS 5b 3
133NibelungE1 5b 1
134Al denteVS 4c 4
135Agag,s slabD **36
136Bee LineHVS 4b,5a 13
137agags slabD 21
138colonels areteVD 39
139agags directS 4a **15
140Ceasars NoseS 48
141Window PaneVS 4c 14
142Caesers NoseS 14
143Ultimate Eliminate DirectE3 5c **2
144Piglet Wall Direct StartE5 6b **1
145MambowlineS 4a 1
146Agags Forgotten BrotherHD 6
147The Admiral's HoleS ***5
148Tower Stairs *M 3
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer theterrorwheel

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
incredible venue, shadowed slightly by so many punters rocking up. Had some mongoloid throwing rocks towards the river when we arrived nearly hitting us.
Stanners - 27/Sep/14
A delightful day out at one of Dartmoor's finest venues, namely The Dewerstone in South West Devon, on one of the crag classics called "Central Groove" which is surely one the best climbs of it's grade at Hard Severe in the UK. Set in the magical ancient wooded valley of Shaugh Prior by the babbling River Plym, The Dewerstone is home to numerous gorgeous granite climbs throughout the grades and hopefully this short film will inspire a few folks to pay a visit to sample some of the delights on offer! :-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6nVM-5_04U
BALD EAGLE - 18/Jul/14
Repeated mann9076's new E1. Nice new route, good to see new stuff appearing from under the moss! Nice route, get on it!
Tom Last - 01/Jun/14
Two new routes climbed this week on In Extremis Buttress above Needle Buttress. Will Hornby did La Crme Noire which takes the obvious wall between Crme Brle and La Bte Noire. Not sure of grade yet but quite hard and with cunning gear. Meilleurs Chiens du Monde takes the arete and wall right of La Bte Noire. These routes are both worth doing and are clean right now as is La Bte Noire. Make the walk up the hill and get on them!
James Mann - 31/May/14
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13
climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11
Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
It's 'classic' as you say, but we say 'traditional' more often. no bolts so friends etc are the key- happy climbing!
w.pettet-smith - 23/Jan/08
Hi, one question please, this area is sportive climbing or classic climbing? Its necessary paravolts and friends? Thanks
Xavi_ivaX - 29/Jan/07
Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06
Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06
From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06
Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05
Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05
Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 29/Jul/2014

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