> Home <
> Forums <
> Logbooks <
> News <
> Photos <
> Articles <
> Gear <
- Latest Gear
- Gear News
- Gear Reviews
- OI News
- HELP
> Video <
> Classifieds <
> Search <

Search site:

Logbooks & Crags

Click to read about Advertising on UKC

Search results... 1 crag found

[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SX 539638 (OS Landranger #201)

The Dewerstone

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 147 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Varied, vegetated at the bottom. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Comprises six main separate buttresses. Not much for those climbing above E2. Great routes include Central Groove (HS 4b) and Climber's Club Direct (HVS 5a).

Weather forecast

Today	Sun	Mon	Tue	Wed

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

1	Bruised Heels	E1 5b	1
2	Bruised Feelings	VS 4c
3	Slapping Flapping Faffing Father	E1 5a
4	Oblong	E2 5b	1
5	Dr Greenthumbs	HVS 5a
6	Windowpane	VS 4c	40
7	Tower Crack	HS 4B **	81
8	Windowsill	HS 4a	22
9	Window Slit	VD *	107
10	Wobbling Wall	E1 5b *	14
11	Twittering Crack	HVS 5a	31
12	Saint's Niche	S 4b	111
13	Agag's Direct	S 4a	218
14	Agag's Slab	D	381
15	The Garden Path	D	15
16	Noddy	VS 4b	26
17	Goblin	VS 4c	133
18	Mambo Slab	VD	309
19	Elf	VS 4b	28
20	Caesar's Nose	S 4a	309
21	Cadbury's Flake	S 4a	26
22	Halcyon Daze	E1 5b
23	Hagar the Horrible	E3 5c *	4
24	Gnasher	HVS 5b	5
25	Holly Tree Wall Direct	HVS 5a	85
26	Rufty Tufty	E1 5b	18
27	Holly Tree Wall	D	261
28	Pinnacle Chimney	VD 3c	201
29	Troy	HVS 4c	16
30	Pinnacle Buttress Direct	HS 4a	148
31	Pinnacle Buttress	VD	290
32	Mucky Gully	D	694
33	Reverse Cleft	S 4a	264
34	Colonel's Cavort	HS 4a	77
35	Colonel's Arete	VD ***	617
36	Sayonara	HVS 5a
37	If I Should Fall From Grace With God	E3 5c
38	Dark Cleft	VD	10
39	The Echo	HVS 5a	2
40	Kernow	S 4b	8
41	The Tunnel	D	22
42	Suspension Wall	S	6
43	The High Traverse	VD	21
44	Wrath of Grapes	E3 5c	1
45	Vineyard	VS 4b	220
46	Vineyard Variation	S 4b	4
47	Inkspots Hangover	HVS 5b *	27
48	Pinkspots Headache	E1 5b	1
49	Cretin's Cavort	HVS 5a	61
50	Leviathan	VS 4c ***	591
51	Extendable Arms	E1 5c,5b *	10
52	Vala	HVS 5a **	239
53	Return from the Kurds	E1 5c	5
54	Central Groove	HS 4b ***	1117
55	Scimitar	E1 5b *	38
56	Scimitar Direct	E1 5b ***	38
57	Fruitflancase	E1 5a ***	111
58	Gideon	E1 5b ***	77
59	Energy Crisis	E4 6a	1
60	Climbers' Club Direct	HVS 5a ***	272
61	Ultimate Eliminate	E2 5c	1
62	Climbers' Club Super Direct	E1 5b	11
63	Piglet Wall	E5 6b *	5
64	Halls of Illusion	E5 6a
65	Globe and Laurel	HVS 5a	9
66	Climbers' Club Ordinary	VS 4b **	350
67	Beel Line	HVS 5a	10
68	Route B	HVD *	353
69	Knucklecracker	HS 4a	9
70	Cornish Reprieve	HVS 5a *	9
71	Lateral Thinking	E1 5c	1

	Climb name	Grade	x

72	The Admiral's Traverse	VD	16
73	Cornish Reverse	VS 4c
74	Cleopatra	VS 4c	8
75	Portal	S 4b	53
76	Needle Arete	VD ***	457
77	The Camel	HS 4a *	76
78	The Stitch	E1 5b	8
79	Cyclops	HVS 5a **	62
80	Scorpion	HS 4b	24
81	Final Touch	E1 5c	2
82	Final Touch Direct	E3 6a
83	Exaltation	HVS 5a	3
84	Babylon	S 4a	4
85	Winnet	HVS 5a
86	Shades of Green	HVS 5b	1
87	Wire Brush	VS 4c
88	In Extremis	HVS 5a	8
89	Short and Snappy	E2 5b
90	Left Chimney	D	2
91	Crème Broulée	E4 5c	1
92	La Bête Noire	E1 5b	8
93	Sloppy Gully	D	13
94	The Bewilderness	E1 5b	1
95	Yogi	HVS 5b *	10
96	Valhalla Wall	HVS 5a	27
97	Valhalla Wall Direct	E1 5b	8
98	Fly On The Wall	HS 4b **	268
99	Brown Legs	E1 5b	4
100	Imperialist	HVS 5a	34
101	Black Widow	E1 5b	8
102	Silken Thread/Imperialist	HVS 5a **	35
103	Silken Thread	HVS 5a	26
104	Smash or Grab	E3 6a	1
105	Tarantula	HVS 5b *	14
106	Shelob	E1 5b	1
107	Spider's Web	HVS 5a ***	143
108	Mango Corner	VS 4c	22
109	Boris	VS 4c	6
110	Back to Nature	VS 4c	4
111	Raven Face	VD 4a *	106
112	Randy	VS 4c,4c *	24
113	Safe Sex	HVS 5a	5
114	Yosemite Sam	VS 4b	7
115	Yosemite	VS 5a	2
116	Cyberpunk	HVS 5a	4
117	Armada	HS 4a	86
118	The Mammoth Roof	HVS
119	Bolshevik	HVS 5b	7
120	Search for the Ultimate Jacuzzi	HVS 5a	8
121	Corner Chimney	HVS 5a	7
122	Grunting in the Gutter	E1 5b
123	Dragon Song	E3 6a **	5
124	Dragon Song Variation Finish	E3 5c	1
125	The Dangler	E1 5b *	4
126	Apparition	HVS 5b	2
127	Nibelung	E1 5b	1
128	Al dente	VS 4c	4
129	Agag,s slab	D **	31
130	Bee Line	HVS 4b,5a	13
131	agags slab	D	19
132	colonels arete	VD	35
133	agags direct	S 4a **	11
134	Ceasars Nose	S	39
135	Window Pane	VS 4c	11
136	Caesers Nose	S	10
137	Ultimate Eliminate Direct	E3 5c **	1
138	Piglet Wall Direct Start	E5 6b **	1
139	Mambowline	S 4a	1
140	Agags Forgotten Brother	HD	4
141	The Admiral's Hole	S ***	2

The Barn Climbing Shop
Tavistock, DEVON
"The Barn Climbing Shop is an independent retailer of climbing equipment and clothing, shop online and get free postage on orders over £60 or visit us in store. We stock, Black..."
www.barnclimbinggear.co.uk

Advertise here

Access notes
From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym.

>From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L.

From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).

The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer El3ctroFuzz

USER FEEDBACK

All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem

- 26/Feb/13

climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11

Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11

24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11

It's 'classic' as you say, but we say 'traditional' more often. no bolts so friends etc are the key- happy climbing!
w.pettet-smith - 23/Jan/08

Hi, one question please, this area is sportive climbing or classic climbing? Its necessary paravolts and friends? Thanks
Xavi_ivaX - 29/Jan/07

Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06

Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06

From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06

Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05

Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05

Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04

USER PHOTO GALLERY
Click to View all 206 photos of The Dewerstone. You can Upload your photos of this crag