The Dewerstone

Climbs 147 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

The Dewerstone is a fantastic low to middle grade venue which remains climbable year round. Set in magical woodland the area consists of a number of contrasting crags which vary from multi-pitch classics to single pitch micro routes with all sorts in between. The rock is usually sound and protection when placed well is good. Some of the less travelled routes (particularly on the upper buttresses) have suffered badly from re-vegetation through lack of traffic and would certainly require cleaning before being climbable. This should be done sensitively and discreetly and under no circumstances should any trees be chopped down at all! The area is host to a grat deal of flora and fauna and during recent times birds of prey have nested on some sections of the main crag during the spring. These birds should not be disturbed and climbers should be able to make their own judgements about which areas should be avoided at these times.

Concerns have been expressed about erosion and footpaths should be kept to where possible. The most up to date definitive guide is the Tim Dennell pdf guide which can be reached through the Javu Website. All of the routes in the Rockfax guide are worthwhile but many other little gems can be found throughout the area. 

Another area called Crow Buttress exists another ten minutes walk upstream.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Access notes

From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym. >From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L. From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).

 

The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.

 


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995), Javu website new routes, Rustypeg website

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE TOOTH AREA  
2Al denteVS 4c 4
3Bruised HeelsE1 5b 1
4Bruised FeelingsVS 4c  
5Slapping Flapping Faffing FatherE1 5a  
6Oblong/TrapeziumE2 5b 1
7Dr GreenthumbsHVS 5a  
 THE TOWER  
9WindowpaneVS 4c *68
10Moss WallE6 6b/c  
11Tower CrackHS 4b **112
12WindowsillHS 4a ***27
13Window SlitVD **138
 PENNY BAY  
15Wobbling WallE1 5b *20
16Twittering CrackHVS 5a 42
17Saint's NicheS 4b 138
 AGAG'S SLAB AREA  
19Agag's DirectS 4a 307
20Agag's SlabD 567
21Agags Forgotten BrotherHD 6
22The Garden PathD 19
23NoddyVS 4b 31
 MAMBO SLAB AREA  
25GoblinVS 4c 182
26Mambo SlabVD 388
27ElfVS 4b 39
28Caesar's NoseS 4a 475
29Cadbury's FlakeS 4a 36
30Halcyon DazeE1 5b  
 UPPER PINACLE BUTTRESS LEFT HAND  
32Dewerstone FlagshipE4 6a *1
33Hagar the HorribleE4 6a *10
34GnasherHVS 5b 8
35Holly Tree Wall DirectHVS 5a 111
36Rufty TuftyE1 5b 22
37Holly Tree WallD 342
38Pinnacle ChimneyVD 3c 252
39TroyHVS 4c 20
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS  
41Pinnacle Buttress DirectHS 4a 200
42Pinnacle ButtressVD **425
43Mucky GullyD **949
44Reverse CleftS 4a *373
45Colonel's CavortHS 4a 99
 COLONEL'S ARETE AREA  
47Colonel's AreteVD **865
 MAIN GULLY  
49SayonaraHVS 5a  
50If I Should Fall From Grace With GodE3 5c  
51Dark CleftVD 11
52The EchoHVS 5a 2
53KernowS 4b 11
54The TunnelD 30
55Suspension WallS 7
56The High TraverseVD 24
 VINEYARD AREA  
58Wrath of GrapesE3 5c 1
59VineyardVS 4b 305
60Vineyard VariationS 4b 10
61Inkspots HangoverE1 5b *34
62Pinkspots HeadacheE1 5b 1
 THE DEVIL'S ROCK  
64Cretin's CavortHVS 5a 75
65LeviathanVS 4c ***845
66Extendable ArmsE1 5c,5b *13
67ValaHVS 5a **342
68Return from the KurdsE1 5c 5
69Central GrooveHS 4b ***1553
70ScimitarE1 5b *67
71Scimitar DirectE1 5b ***65
72Scimitar VariationsE1 5b ***2
73FruitflancaseE1 5a ***169
74GideonE1 5b ***116
75Energy CrisisE4 6a 1
76Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***405
77Ultimate EliminateE2 5c 1
78Ultimate Eliminate DirectE3 5c **3
79Climbers' Club Super DirectE1 5b 16
80granite guruE5 6b *6
81Halls of IllusionE5 6a  
82Piglet Wall Direct StartE5 6b **1
83Globe and LaurelHVS 5a 10
84Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **478
85Bee LineHVS 5a 30
86Route BHVD **543
87KnucklecrackerHS 4a 15
88Cornish ReprieveHVS 5a *9
89Lateral ThinkingE1 5c 1
90The Admiral's TraverseVD 20
91Cornish ReverseVS 4c 1
 NEEDLE BUTTRESS  
93CleopatraVS 4c 10
94PortalS 4b 64
95Needle AreteVD **607
96The CamelHS 4a *99
97The StitchE1 5b 10
98CyclopsHVS 5a *84
99ScorpionHS 4b 29
100Final TouchE1 5c 2
101Final Touch DirectE3 6a  
102ExaltationHVS 5a 3
103BabylonS 4a 5
104WinnetHVS 5a 1
105Shades of GreenHVS 5b 1
106Wire BrushVS 4c  
 IN EXTREMIS BUTTRESS  
108In ExtremisHVS 5a 8
109Short and SnappyE2 5b  
110Left ChimneyD 3
111Crème BrouléeE4 5c 7
112La Crème NoireE5 6b **4
113La Bête NoireE1 5b 22
114Meilleurs Chiens du MondeE1 5b *12
115Sloppy GullyD 14
 RAVEN BUTTRESS  
 LOWER RAVEN BUTTRESS  
118The BewildernessE1 5b 1
119Hidden GemHVS 5a 2
120YogiHVS 5b *14
121Valhalla WallHVS 5a 36
122Valhalla Wall DirectE1 5b 10
123Fly On The WallHS 4b **396
124Brown LegsE1 5b 4
125ImperialistHVS 5a 39
126Black WidowE1 5b 9
127Silken Thread/ImperialistHVS 5a **65
128Silken ThreadHVS 5a 30
129Smash or GrabE3 6a 1
130TarantulaHVS 5b *18
131ShelobE1 5b 1
132Spider's WebHVS 5a ***195
133Mango CornerVS 4c 30
134BorisVS 4c 7
 UPPER RAVEN BUTTRESS  
136Back to NatureVS 4c 5
137SnoopyE2 5b  
138Raven FaceVD *143
139RandyVS 4c,4c *34
140Safe SexHVS 5a 6
141Yosemite SamVS 4b 7
142YosemiteVS 4c 2
143CyberpunkHVS 5a 4
144ArmadaHS 4a 102
145The Mammoth RoofHVS  
146BolshevikHVS 5b 7
147Search for the Ultimate JacuzziHVS 5a 9
148Corner ChimneyHVS 5a 7
149Grunting in the GutterE1 5b  
150Dragon SongE3 6a **7
151Dragon Song Variation FinishE3 5c 1
152The DanglerE1 5b *4
153ApparitionHVS 5b 3
154NibelungE1 5b 1
155The Admiral's HoleS ***9
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incredible venue, shadowed slightly by so many punters rocking up. Had some mongoloid throwing rocks towards the river when we arrived nearly hitting us.
Stanners - 27/Sep/14
A delightful day out at one of Dartmoor's finest venues, namely The Dewerstone in South West Devon, on one of the crag classics called "Central Groove" which is surely one the best climbs of it's grade at Hard Severe in the UK. Set in the magical ancient wooded valley of Shaugh Prior by the babbling River Plym, The Dewerstone is home to numerous gorgeous granite climbs throughout the grades and hopefully this short film will inspire a few folks to pay a visit to sample some of the delights on offer! :-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6nVM-5_04U
BALD EAGLE - 18/Jul/14
Repeated mann9076's new E1. Nice new route, good to see new stuff appearing from under the moss! Nice route, get on it!
Tom Last - 01/Jun/14
Two new routes climbed this week on In Extremis Buttress above Needle Buttress. Will Hornby did La Crème Noire which takes the obvious wall between Crème Brûlée and La Bête Noire. Not sure of grade yet but quite hard and with cunning gear. Meilleurs Chiens du Monde takes the arete and wall right of La Bête Noire. These routes are both worth doing and are clean right now as is La Bête Noire. Make the walk up the hill and get on them!
James Mann - 31/May/14
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13
climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11
Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06
Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06
From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06
Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05
Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05
Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04