The Dewerstone

Climbs 147 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

The Dewerstone is a fantastic low to middle grade venue which remains climbable year round. Set in magical woodland the area consists of a number of contrasting crags which vary from multi-pitch classics to single pitch micro routes with all sorts in between. The rock is usually sound and protection when placed well is good. Some of the less travelled routes (particularly on the upper buttresses) have suffered badly from re-vegetation through lack of traffic and would certainly require cleaning before being climbable. This should be done sensitively and discreetly and under no circumstances should any trees be chopped down at all! The area is host to a grat deal of flora and fauna and during recent times birds of prey have nested on some sections of the main crag during the spring. These birds should not be disturbed and climbers should be able to make their own judgements about which areas should be avoided at these times.

Concerns have been expressed about erosion and footpaths should be kept to where possible. The most up to date definitive guide is the Tim Dennell pdf guide which can be reached through the Javu Website. All of the routes in the Rockfax guide are worthwhile but many other little gems can be found throughout the area. 

Another area called Crow Buttress exists another ten minutes walk upstream.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Approach notes

From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym. >From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L. From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).

 

The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.

 


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995), Rustypeg website, Javu website new routes

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE TOOTH AREA  
2Al denteVS 4c 4
3Bruised HeelsE1 5b 1
4Bruised FeelingsVS 4c  
5Slapping Flapping Faffing FatherE1 5a  
6Oblong/TrapeziumE2 5b 1
7Dr GreenthumbsHVS 5a  
 THE TOWER  
9WindowpaneVS 4c *69
10Moss WallE6 6b/c  
11Tower CrackHS 4b **113
12TCRHFE4 6b 2
13Cower TrackE6 6a **1
14WindowsillHS 4a ***27
15Window SlitVD **138
16Slap HappyE5 6a **2
17What a flakin small holdE4 6a **1
 PENNY BAY  
19Wobbling WallE1 5b *20
20Twittering CrackHVS 5a 42
21Saint's NicheS 4b 139
 AGAG'S SLAB AREA  
23Agag's DirectS 4a 307
24Agag's SlabD 568
25Agags Forgotten BrotherHD 6
26The Garden PathD 19
27NoddyVS 4b 31
 MAMBO SLAB AREA  
29GoblinVS 4c 182
30Mambo SlabVD 391
31ElfVS 4b 39
32Caesar's NoseS 4a 476
33Cadbury's FlakeS 4a 36
34Halcyon DazeE1 5b  
 UPPER PINACLE BUTTRESS LEFT HAND  
36Dewerstone FlagshipE4 6a *1
37Hagar the HorribleE4 6a *10
38GnasherHVS 5b 8
39Holly Tree Wall DirectHVS 5a 113
40Rufty TuftyE1 5b 22
41Holly Tree WallD 343
42Pinnacle ChimneyVD 3c 253
43TroyHVS 4c 21
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS  
45Pinnacle Buttress DirectHS 4a 200
46Pinnacle ButtressVD **429
47Mucky GullyD **951
48Reverse CleftS 4a *375
49Colonel's CavortHS 4a 99
 COLONEL'S ARETE AREA  
51Colonel's AreteVD **869
 MAIN GULLY  
53SayonaraHVS 5a  
54If I Should Fall From Grace With GodE3 5c  
55Dark CleftVD 11
56The EchoHVS 5a 2
57KernowS 4b 11
58The TunnelD 30
59Suspension WallS 7
60The High TraverseVD 24
 VINEYARD AREA  
62Wrath of GrapesE3 5c 1
63VineyardVS 4b 309
64Vineyard VariationS 4b 10
65Inkspots HangoverE1 5b *34
66Pinkspots HeadacheE1 5b 1
 THE DEVIL'S ROCK  
68Cretin's CavortHVS 5a 75
69LeviathanVS 4c ***853
70Extendable ArmsE1 5c,5b *13
71ValaHVS 5a **344
72Return from the KurdsE1 5c 5
73Central GrooveHS 4b ***1569
74ScimitarE1 5b *67
75Scimitar DirectE1 5b ***65
76Scimitar VariationsE1 5b ***2
77FruitflancaseE1 5a ***170
78GideonE1 5b ***118
79Energy CrisisE4 6a 1
80Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***408
81Ultimate EliminateE2 5c 1
82Ultimate Eliminate DirectE3 5c **3
83Climbers' Club Super DirectE1 5b 16
84granite guruE5 6b *6
85Halls of IllusionE5 6a  
86Piglet Wall Direct StartE5 6b **1
87Globe and LaurelHVS 5a 10
88Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **485
89Bee LineHVS 5a 30
90Route BHVD **547
91KnucklecrackerHS 4a 15
92Cornish ReprieveHVS 5a *9
93Lateral ThinkingE1 5c 1
94The Admiral's TraverseVD 20
95Cornish ReverseVS 4c 1
 NEEDLE BUTTRESS  
97CleopatraVS 4c 10
98PortalS 4b 64
99Needle AreteVD **614
100The CamelHS 4a *100
101The StitchE1 5b 10
102CyclopsHVS 5a *85
103ScorpionHS 4b 29
104Final TouchE1 5c 2
105Final Touch DirectE3 6a  
106ExaltationHVS 5a 3
107BabylonS 4a 5
108WinnetHVS 5a 1
109Shades of GreenHVS 5b 1
110Wire BrushVS 4c  
 IN EXTREMIS BUTTRESS  
112In ExtremisHVS 5a 8
113Short and SnappyE2 5b  
114Left ChimneyD 3
115Crème BrouléeE4 5c 7
116La Crème NoireE5 6b **4
117La Bête NoireE1 5b 22
118Meilleurs Chiens du MondeE1 5b *13
119Sloppy GullyD 14
 RAVEN BUTTRESS  
 LOWER RAVEN BUTTRESS  
122The BewildernessE1 5b 1
123Hidden GemHVS 5a 2
124YogiHVS 5b *14
125Valhalla WallHVS 5a 36
126Valhalla Wall DirectE1 5b 10
127Fly On The WallHS 4b **400
128Brown LegsE1 5b 4
129ImperialistHVS 5a 39
130Black WidowE1 5b 9
131Silken Thread/ImperialistHVS 5a **68
132Silken ThreadHVS 5a 30
133Smash or GrabE3 6a 1
134TarantulaHVS 5b *18
135ShelobE1 5b 1
136Spider's WebHVS 5a ***195
137Mango CornerVS 4c 30
138BorisVS 4c 7
 UPPER RAVEN BUTTRESS  
140Back to NatureVS 4c 5
141SnoopyE2 5b  
142Raven FaceVD *143
143RandyVS 4c,4c *34
144Safe SexHVS 5a 6
145Yosemite SamVS 4b 7
146YosemiteVS 4c 2
147CyberpunkHVS 5a 4
148ArmadaHS 4a 102
149The Mammoth RoofHVS  
150BolshevikHVS 5b 7
151Search for the Ultimate JacuzziHVS 5a 9
152Corner ChimneyHVS 5a 7
153Grunting in the GutterE1 5b  
154Dragon SongE3 6a **7
155Dragon Song Variation FinishE3 5c 1
156The DanglerE1 5b *5
157ApparitionHVS 5b 3
158NibelungE1 5b 1
159The Admiral's HoleS ***9
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
incredible venue, shadowed slightly by so many punters rocking up. Had some mongoloid throwing rocks towards the river when we arrived nearly hitting us.
Stanners - 27/Sep/14
A delightful day out at one of Dartmoor's finest venues, namely The Dewerstone in South West Devon, on one of the crag classics called "Central Groove" which is surely one the best climbs of it's grade at Hard Severe in the UK. Set in the magical ancient wooded valley of Shaugh Prior by the babbling River Plym, The Dewerstone is home to numerous gorgeous granite climbs throughout the grades and hopefully this short film will inspire a few folks to pay a visit to sample some of the delights on offer! :-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6nVM-5_04U
BALD EAGLE - 18/Jul/14
Repeated mann9076's new E1. Nice new route, good to see new stuff appearing from under the moss! Nice route, get on it!
Tom Last - 01/Jun/14
Two new routes climbed this week on In Extremis Buttress above Needle Buttress. Will Hornby did La Crème Noire which takes the obvious wall between Crème Brûlée and La Bête Noire. Not sure of grade yet but quite hard and with cunning gear. Meilleurs Chiens du Monde takes the arete and wall right of La Bête Noire. These routes are both worth doing and are clean right now as is La Bête Noire. Make the walk up the hill and get on them!
James Mann - 31/May/14
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13
climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11
Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06
Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06
From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06
Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05
Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05
Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04