Altitude 89m a.s.l
A short, but interesting crag consisting of a kilometre-long fin of rock, with one face pointing north and the other south. The climbing is mostly technical wall-climbing, with pitches around the 20m length. The crag is very family-friendly, in particular, the Prairie sector at the east end of the crag has a wide, open grassy-meadow at its base - ideal for a relaxed family-day. Many of the easier routes are now quite polished, so expect to have a slippery time on some. The nearest campsite is the Camping Municipal des Romarins in Maussane-les-Alpiles. There are many more further north in Saint-Rémy de Provence.
Being north-facing, this is a good place to come to escape the sun, and logically, is not somewhere you'd naturally head if it's cold. Consisting of a fin of rock, the routes have no rock above them to cause seepage, and so could be worth a look if it has been raining and other places are seeping. The south side of the fin is not of a similar quality to the north side and it is covered in the local guide.
But since this is actually the logbook for Mouries Sud (!) much of the above information is not relevant...... Most of the routes in the Mouries Sud section are, similarly, on Mouries Nord!
From the centre of the town of Mouriès (where the Tourist Information office is situated), head north along Cours Paul Revoil - it soon becomes Avenue des Alpilles. Turn left onto Route de Servanes and follow this out of town, passing a turning on the right to the golf course. Soon, the road turns sharp left then sharp right, and in 150m a track leads off to the right to a small car-park. Park here (or on the main road if the car park is full) and follow the track along the base of the north side of the crag to reach the climbing. The first few walls are short, polished, and not included - it gets a lot better further along.
This is, of course, the access to Mouries Nord. For much of Mouries Sud the better access is from the parking area at the E. end of the ridge - accessed by a track going up the E. side of the golf course.
Between June and the end of September you should check if access is allowed at:
|Found the so called easier grade routes at Sector Java extremely sustained and undergraded. Rayons de lune has got to be harder than 5c (5+). On a British crag it would get E3 5c.|
Pencarth - 21/Oct/14