Climbs 231
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 185m a.s.l
Faces S

Chateauvert © Neil Foster

Crag features

A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road. If that sounds like a French Stoney Middleton or Avon Gorge - it isn't!

The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quick-draws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope!

Much of the crag faces pretty much south, it is recessed and well sheltered, especially from northerlies. The crag is an ideal winter venue and is always popular especially at weekends. It can get very hot here at almost any time of the year, though the crags at the far eastern end of the valley and much of the Grande Face are tipped a bit to the east and go into the shade earlier than the rest of the cliff.

Approach notes

The cliffs at Châteauvert - or the Rochers de Bagaredes, to give the crag its correct name - run to the north of the Argens river, 10km due north of Brignoles. Exit the A8 at Brignols (junction 35) and turn north from the roundabout on the ring road due north of the town centre onto the D554 - signed towards Le Val and Barjols. Just north of Le Val turn left (still on the D554) towards Châteauvert. After 9km cross the narrow bridge, turn right and follow the valley for 2km until the crags appear on the left, just round a sharp bend - ogling time has arrived.

Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
This crag as some of the best rock I have ever seen. a lovely spot to climb.
brianrunner - 05/Apr/12
Lovely spot to climb. Not too many really good easier routes but we enjoyed several good routes (especially Desir de Velours) before the rain started.
Rog Wilko - 19/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Grand Face 
2Béréchit
-
6b  
3Bonze a l'aise
-
6b 3
4Neuromediation6c ***7
5Les hirondelles sont de retour6b+ ***9
6La Salamandre6b+ **1
7Un hiver sans fin5a *1
8Arielle6b ***17
9La poursuite du gri-gri6b ***12
10L'esprit du rat6b+ ***13
11Béatitube7a ***8
12Sweet smoke8b * 
13Are you ready?8b+ *** 
14Les frontiers du néant7a ***21
15Le moutouki
-
7c 1
16Le moutouki Direct
-
8a  
17Les couleurs du charme7b+ ***8
18Le magicien d'Oz7a+ ***18
19Yellow shark7a ** 
20Autism7b ** 
21Entropie7a+ ** 
22La femme fatale8b ** 
23Jazzogène7c *** 
24Marabout7c ** 
25Marabout Extension7c+ ** 
26Les sœurs "trou-trou"8a ** 
27Abolition des privilèges7a+ ***8
28Abolition des privilèges Extension7c *** 
29Abolition des privilèges droite7b+ *** 
30La forteresse du vide7c+ ** 
31Le Diktateur7c+ ***2
32Toréador, prends gard!7b * 
33La signe de taureau7b+ ***7
34Léna bouddha7c * 
35Léna bouddha Extension7c+ * 
36So What?8a * 
37Kanao7b * 
38Kanao Extension7c+ * 
39Le Grand Neurone8a ** 
40La Soif du Mal8a * 
41Quinoa7c+ * 
42Tchernobyl7c * 
43Faux Mouvements
-
7b+  
44Tiané mobylette7c ***3
45Mercurius7c *** 
46Corto balèse7c+ ***2
47Le chmatex7a ***20
48Fleur carnivore7b **1
49Turbulences7a+ ***1
50La disparition7c+ ** 
51Abécédaire6c+ *** 
52Habitus6b+ ***2
 Le Muret to Westpoint 
54Thérèse troïka6a+ ***23
55Red Cross6b ***17
56Serpelin6b+ ***20
57Destination liberté6c+ ***10
58Embraye6b **15
59Strawberry nose7a+ ***8
60Figue molle6c ***5
61Un quart d'heure de folie6b ***12
62Nuage6b ***13
63Australie6c+ * 
64Cabriole6b ***11
65La liberté c'est pas la porte à côté!6c ***4
66Patagonie7b+ * 
67Cap Horn7a ***9
68Igloo6c+ *** 
69Terre de feu7a+ * 
70Transmutation7b ***3
71Borderline6b+ ***7
72Norbert et les Ayatollahs
-
7a+  
73La voix de son double maître
-
7c ** 
74Les fachos de la barre a mine
-
7a+  
75La vie est ailleurs
-
6c * 
76Ego mégalo
-
6c+  
77Ce que parler veut dire
-
7b+ * 
78La santé parfaite
-
7b * 
79Champagne supernova
-
7c+ * 
80Récidive
-
6c ** 
81Le colibri5c ***15
82Le syndrome de saumon5c **5
83Papa, on joue au foot?6a+ ***17
84T'as pas cent balles?6b **7
85La santé par les plantes6b+ **5
86Les plantes qui savent5c ***12
87Eole5c ***17
88Ça glisse au pays des merveilles5c ***16
89Saute Meissuge4b *8
90Looping4c *14
91La fête à neuneu5c *6
92L'odeur des pierres5c *5
93Les 101 Bactratiens5b **12
94Le marchand de sable5c **14
95Douce transe5c *6
96Le râteau de la méduse5b 2
97Bonboundan5c *1
98Cabessa de mule6a *5
99Chipie5c *5
100Choupette5c *4
101Liqueur de chêne5c *5
102La galéjade6b+ **2
103Les enfants du roc6a ***18
104Westpoint6b ***9
105Pog, Pog, Poggers'6a+ **11
 Alex 
107By night5c **15
108Gross et caille5a **24
109No problèm5c *15
110Désire de velours5a ***40
111Alex5a ***43
112Aladin4c *35
113Jasmine4c *24
114Baja6c+ * 
115Bounie
-
7b+ * 
116La cadoune
-
7c * 
117Tristes tropiques7b+ **1
118Caduveo
-
7c * 
119Boroboro6b+ **12
120Mambikwara7a * 
121Yanomami
-
6c * 
 Technogène 
123Tintin
-
4a  
124Professer Tournesol4a 6
125Dupond & Dupond
-
5c 2
126Tchang5c 5
127Captaine Haddock3 6
128La castafiore3 5
129Milou
-
2 2
130Are you radin?5a **15
131Les frontières du néon4c **14
132Les odeurs du charme5c ***40
133La flemme fatale5c ***29
134Technogène5c ***32
135Lycopodium4c ***35
136Le Diktaton4c ***38
137Le signe du blaireau4c **12
138Cadarache4a *15
139La doctoresse du vide4c *2
140Terminator, prends garde!4c **4
141Parodie6a ***16
142Canaquie6b+ ***19
143Caldoquie7a ***12
144Un juste retour des choses6b ** 
 Le Gaga 
146Bagarèdes6a **5
147Banlieue6a **6
148Comédie d'un jour6a ***17
149Golot Fou5c ***26
150Haltes passagères5c ***17
151Tissus de corde5c ***14
152Pipo solo5a **19
153La dulf du nain des falaises6a+ **1
154Verglas d'été6c+ **4
155Le fil d'Ariane6a ***25
156Indiana Jones6a+ **20
157Et paf le chien!6b+ ***14
158Le gaga5c **7
159Monsieur le Belge
-
7a+ ***1
160Le verin de l'archipel
-
7c+  
161OK Bilboquet
-
6c+ ***1
162Le figolu
-
6c  
163Petit brun
-
6b **2
 Roadside Buttresses 
165E'daski6b **5
166Alexandre du blocos7c+ ** 
167Bill boulette8a ** 
168My biautiful pioulette7a+ ***1
169Hermine troutrou7c *** 
170Coco bel œil7a+ **2
171Power7b+ ***6
172Miss Tintinguette7a ***15
173Fernando fait le rat
-
7c **1
174Les eléments ne fond pas de cadeaeau7b ***4
175Rage de dents7a+ **3
176Etranger aux vérités premières6b+ **21
177Ragondin5c *13
178Plume d'aigle6a *4
179I had a dream6c ***14
180Les quelles qui parlent
-
6b 4
181Les assassins sont parmi nous6a+ **6
182Le sot périlleux6b ***21
183Pleine lune7a+ ***8
184Défi7b+ **5
185Moon Safari8a+ *** 
186Métèque et mat6b+ **7
187Croc range
-
6a 1
188Luther King5c **10
189Retour de manivelle5a 10
190Africa Queen6a+ ***7
 Grotte d'Atlantis 
192Ema5c **2
193L'iris6a *1
194Kntz6b ***11
195L'ange bafoué6a **3
196Keketols on the moon6a+ ***15
197Casque bleu6b *4
198Crève la dalle6a ***8
199Fortitude5c ***6
200Couleurs d'origine6b ***3
201Réveil matin6b ***10
202Quand les fusils se taisent...6c **4
203Quinze minutes6b ***1
204Bouquet des nerfs7b ** 
205L'essaim de nat6b ***13
206Kricket7c ***4
207Koksinel6a ***20
208Kholéoptèr5c ***9
209Kloport5c ***4
210Uzeb7c+ **1
211Huit B'528a+ ** 
212Atlantis8a *** 
213Le tyran domestique8a+ * 
214Vigie pictrate6c ***6
215Riquiki
-
6a ** 
216Maousse kosto
-
6c+ ** 
217Aqualung
-
6b **4
218Sorglume
-
6a+ **1
 L'Hacienda 
220Play with toys
-
6a * 
221Once in a lifetime
-
6a+ * 
222Papa was a Rolling Stone
-
7a+ * 
223Sunflower
-
8a * 
224Psychokiller
-
7a+ *** 
225The method to our madness
-
8b  
226Zen arcade
-
7b+ ** 
227Nan'Cherry
-
6c+ ** 
228Blablabla
-
6c *** 
229Le conifère Jamaican
-
6c+ *** 
230La ronde des helicos
-
6b+ ** 
231Restons Francais, soyons Gaulois
-
6a+ *** 
232La ballard de Jim
-
6a ***2
233Zig zag avec toi
-
6b+ * 
234J'aime regarder les filles
-
6b **1
235Traces de toi
-
6b ** 
236Casa Babylon
-
5c ** 
237P'tis pois/lardons
-
6a+ * 
 WHERE ARE THESE??? 
239Louis
-
6a+ ***1
240Fidele Gastro
-
6a+ 4

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