UKC

Climbs 246
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 822m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Paul Cox on Grimsel (6a) at Auzat. © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Auzat is home to a set of popular granite cliffs just to the south of the village of the same name. The huge pipes that carried the water to power the aluminium smelter are conspicuous to the right of the cliff. There are over 200 routes here, generally they are well-bolted on superb rock. Most are single pitch, though there are a few short multi-pitch outings as well. Sector Principal is quite popular as a group venue, best have a reserve plan in case there are a couple of big coaches in the car park.

The buttresses generally face south or east and it is usually possible to find sun or shade as required. The crag takes quite a lot of drainage, and some sections can be slow to dry after rain, though it is usually possible to find some dry rock to play on. The trees offer some shade in hot weather.

Approach notes

From Tarascon-sur-Ariège, drive south through Niaux and Vicdessos to the village of Auzat. Continue through the village and past the old aluminium smelter to parking on the right just before the road crosses a river on a high bridge (signs for the climbing) - 16km from Tarascon. This is the parking for the Sectors Principal and Montcalm.

For Sector le Far, continue for another 750m to a bridge over the river leading to an Equestrian Centre. There is extensive parking just before this on either side of the road.

There has been a massive rock fall (possibly this winter 2012/13) in the Montcalm area which originated somewhere above the Upper Tier and tracked straight through the ascent/descent route to the latter. Smashed trees everywhere and boulders the size of cars some of which reached Sector Djinns creating big craters. Some of the red arrows marking the route can now be found on the 'bottom' of rocks?? It doesnt seem that settled yet, but that could be my paranoia. Glad I wasnt there when it happened.
Dilwat - 16/Jun/13
topo: http://cafma.free.fr/auzat/fr_auzat.htm
daWalt - 18/Sep/11
testsdfgsdg
Nick Smith - Climbers - 24/Aug/08
Georgeous Granite Crag. Routes from 3C, with a realy good selection of 5s (enough for at least one day), and enough 6s for 2 days climbing. Multipitches from 4C-4C upwards. If you take the left path from the carpark, instead of going straight on to auzat there is another crag with more similar routes. VERY strongly reccomended, especialy if your getting slightly bored of the surrounding limestone
pottsworth - 26/Mar/06
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