Climbs 108
Rocktype Granite

Faces SW

Cornwall at it's best. Illustrated Man E2. © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Many excellent single-pitch routes up to 90ft, equally split among all grades. Sheltered as long as there isn't a heavy swell running.

Just a brief update from a visit July 2012 there is a fair amount of choss along the top of the crag including some decent size blocks. A great place though but would defo where a helmet here if there were a few parties about. The crag itself is mainly very sound.

Approach notes

Tidal in some parts, and all affected by heavy swells.

Park at the Porthgwarra car park (turn off the B3315) and follow the tarmac road uphill, to where it reaches the open cliffland: the road curves L and splits. Take the path directly ahead (the L one goes to Chair Ladder) leading along the higher edge of the cliff. After about 1100m you should cross a granite wall. Continue 300m to a curve L at a headland with a perched boulder. Follow the grassy depression down.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Crack In The Sky, Grand Plage and Marisco Striptease all affected by rockfall. Crack In The Sky now shorter and slightly easier. Grand Plage now reported to be E4 6b with a loss in quality. Marisco Striptease suffering minor loss to crux jug probably making it more difficult.
Ian Jones - 13/Apr/15
Very large flake gone from bottom of grande plage as of 16th Feb 2013. Start will be harder now- a guy who shunted it thought 6b.
Bristoldave - 19/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Grand Plage Area 
2Easy Touch
HVS 5a  
3Worried Warrior
HVS 5b 1
4Hampshire Zigzag
D 1
5Hampshire Bypass
HS 4b  
6Crack In The SkyE1 5b **130
7Amen Corner
HVS 5a 15
8Reflections On A Mirror
E4 6a/b **7
9Mean StreetE4 6a **29
10Arc Of A Diver / Psychosis
E4 6a **2
11Sunny Corner LaneE3 5c ***76
12Crazy From The Heat
E5 6a *1
13Birthday Route (Powerflex)
E4 6a **7
14Grand PlageE3 6a ***126
15Grand Plage (variation)
E3 5c ***3
16Golden BrownE4 6a ***22
17The Consul
E4 6a *3
18Footless MadnessE5 6b ***11
 Socket Wall Area 
20Geireagle IIE2 5b *42
2152nd Street
E2 5b 4
22Marisco StripteaseE2 5b *42
23At Home
E5 6a *3
24Dog Town
E5 6b **1
25Fine and Dandy
HVS 5b 10
26Silence Sleeper
E2 5b *6
E5 6b **4
28Vive La Difference
HS 4b 9
29Credit Squeeze
D 16
30Holiday TripperE1 5b 18
31Five Year Itch
E3 6b *3
32Sock It To Me
HVS 5b 11
33Socket AreteVS 4c *130
34CumbelloeHS 4b *97
35Socket WallS 4b *176
36The Lurch
VS 4c 3
37Slant Crack
VS 4c 31
38Smash And Grab
E2 5c 8
39A Touch Of GlassE4 6b **12
40Glass AreteE3 5c **51
41Sleazy CornerVD *66
42Spring Squill Salad
E5 5c 5
43Peel CrackHVD **198
44Edge Climb
S 4a 18
45Weekend Treat
HS 4b 28
46Weekend Treat (direct start)
VD 1
HVS 5a 18
48The Sewing Machine Man
E5 6a * 
49Nelson's Eye
E1 5a 8
50The Sigh
VS 5a 4
51The Sigh (variation 1)
E3 6a  
52The Sigh (variation 2)
E2 5c  
53Last Gasp
E5 6a  
54Bottle Throttle
E4 6a *2
 Central Wall 
56RaHVS 5a **70
57Illustrated ManE2 5b **104
58DialecticHVS 5b **156
59Dialectic (variation)
HVS 5a 1
60AxisVS 5a **189
61ExodusVS 5a *30
62Fourteen FathomsE2 5c **76
E2 6a 2
64Wet Barnacle
E3 5c *14
65Cruisin' for a Bruisin'E2 5c *23
66Big Bad Blues
E4 6b * 
67Kicking Steps
HVS 4c 2
68Atlantic Crossing
HVS 5b 1
69Twisting By The Pool
E3 5c 1
70Crystal Voyager
E3 6a  
71Samphire Wall
VD *1
S 4a 5
HVS 5b 5
74Recessed Slab Climb
VD 31
HS 4b 7
76Iron Cross
VS 4c 7
 Southern Platform 
78Niche WallHS 4b **85
79Sea WolfHVS 4c *47
80WeasleVS 4c **34
81Weasle (variation)
VS 4b * 
82Howlin' Wolf
E1 5b  
83Sea Fox
HS 4a 3
D 3
85Air Tripper
E1 5b *7
86Eye Of The Crystal
E7 6c *2
87the immaculate corner
HVS 5a *3
HS 4b 2
E1 6b  
90Cometh the Sun
E1 6a  
E1 5a 2
92Edge Climb (Upper Tier)
HVS 5a ***10
93Chicken Head Crack
VD **8
94Hot Wire Fire
E7 6b/c  
95Just Another Inquisition
E7 6b 1
96Taurus the Second
S 4b *3
97Super Crack (Upper Tier)
VS 4c **17
98Great Central Chimney
VD *4
99InbetweenVD 4
100Twin CracksS 5
101Tower GullyVD 3
102Fallen Block CrackVD 1
103Deep ChimneyVD 3
104Sentry BoxD 2
105Between The SheetsE5 6a *1
106Angel City (Upper Tier)
S 4b 2
107ScorpionE1 5b 1
108Up and Running
VD 3
109Hopeless, Upper Tier, Carn BarraVD 2
110Kickin StepsM 1
111Edge Street
VS 4c 1
112IllusionE1 5b 1

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