Trewavas Head Main Cliff

Climbs 105 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Many single-pitch routes up to 100ft to delight the sub-E1 climber, at a crag (actually three) which is often overlooked but sports plenty of delightful routes. Highly recommended: South Groove (E1 5c) and its continuation around and up the perched block, West Wing (E2 5c).

Approach notes
Privately owned but permission has been given for climbing. Please treat with care and take your litter home.

Park at the NT car park at Rinsey (SW 592272) (reached from the A394 Penzance-Helston rd by turning off R at Ashton). Follow the coast path about 0.75mile E to reach the main cliff, of which the E crag offers the best routes.

West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2BodenS 4a 2
3Blackback Slab and CrackHS 4b 2
4Heavy Metal LoverS 4b 2
5Lead Me Out On the Moonlit FloorHS 4b 2
7The PequodS 4a *2
8Foundation and EmpireVS 4c **3
9Captain FlintS 4a 2
10John SilverVD 2
11RogerVD 3
12Over And OutVS 5a  
13Brown SugarE2 5b 1
14DennisS 4a 2
16The Stars Like DustHS 4b 2
17Mantelshelf WallS 4a 9
18RucsacVD 15
19Triple FugueS 4a 18
20Per ArduaVS 4c 13
21Sunshine WallVD 13
22Fool SpiritHVS 4c *3
23CampionVD 4
24Last ResortVD 5
25No Gear, No FearHS 4b 2
27Wild Mountain ThymeE1 5a *4
28The East TowerE1 5b *2
30SidewinderHS 1
31Fran's RouteVS 4c  
32Hot Cross BunS 4a 1
33Air Sea RescueS 4a  
34The MockerD  
36CornelHS 4b 189
37Flanker DirectE1 5b 32
38FlankerHVS 5a *90
39SpankerE3 6a 39
40HankerE1 5b *13
41Sam's Indirect Finish To Bending ChimneyVS 5a 59
42Bending ChimneyVD *273
43Side StepHS 4b 110
44Side Step DirectE1 5c 18
45Harvey ProctorE2 5c *21
46The ProwE1 5b 16
47The BowspritE2 5c 6
48FigureheadE3 5c 1
49Debut AreteE4 6a 1
50SimonVS 4c 2
51Green CrackVS 4c  
52SlightD 5
53Gaffer's RevengeS 4a 1
54The TiercelHS 4b 2
55Gaffer's WallS 4a 5
56The PillarVD 1
57Short'n'SweetS 4a 16
58MouseproofS 4a *297
59From Water to WineS 7
60BrambleVD 168
61GlissadeE2 5c/6a 20
62Avalanche DirectVS 5a 49
63AvalancheVS 5a *227
64Giggle WiggleE3 6a 19
65Easy GullyD 84
66CarrivickVS 4c 90
67Ivy ChimneyVD 168
68Dis LichenS  
69South GrooveE1 5c *79
70West WingE2 5c **74
71The SerpentE5 6a 2
72ColomenHVS 4c *104
73Single BlondesE4 6a 4
74Williams' ChimneyHVS 5b **174
75The Banner VariationE1 5b *69
76Slade's PillarE3 5c 5
77MascaraVS 4c **269
78CrossoverHVS 5a 44
79"It Said Direct!"VS 5a 2
80Joy DirectVS 4c 116
81Nephew's VariationVS 4c 23
82JoyS 4a *388
83SanchoVD 246
84Sancho Direct StartS 1
85Who needs a Royal Fry-up?HS 4a 10
86Un-namedD 4
87Hubble DrectS 60
88The GrooveD 129
89Hesitation CracksVS 5a 157
90MexicanoHS 4b 201
91The GirdleHVS 5a 2
92StruthE1 5b 1
94NerthVS 4b 6
95TrimsarenS 4a 12
96NoseyHS 4b 11
97White Light, White HeatE1 5b 7
98Turning Up The HeatE2 5b **5
99ColenzoVD 15
100Eyeful TowerE1 5b 3
101Wee-NutcrackerVS 5a *9
102Fast Furious Drive NorthE3 5c * 
103AfterthoughtVD 3
104The TraverseVS 4c  
106First LoveVD 1
107Last RightsD 1
108Shark FinE2 5c 4
109Duck WalkVD 2
110Microseconds CrackS 4a 4
111Gape RideVD 2
112LennoraptorD 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Massive landslide down the gully leading to Dennis, Brown Sugar etc. Sometime between September 2012 & Jan 2013. Not sure how this may have affected the approach or the route 'Dennis', but might be worth waiting for it to stabilise before heading down the gully.
Tom Last - 30/Dec/12
We had our car broken into at the national trust car park, somebody nicely hammered a screwdriver or similar through the door skin above the locks on both side of the car and found a bag under the passengerís seat. The police informed me that this is not an unusual occurrence for this car park! Please Beware.
Wotsit - 25/Jan/09
A great little crag, which can be quite sheltered and climbable when wind and/or tides make places like Chair Ladder unwelcoming. A lot of the routes are better than the star ratings might suggest (though I haven 't got the latest guide). A particluar gem for the modest climber is Mascara (VS) which has no stars in my book but is really good value
Rog Wilko - 19/Aug/08
South Groove - a lot of E1 for your money ! Williams's Chimney on the E face - only HVS because the chimney is all loose - think light thoughts...
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04