View larger mapGrid Ref SW 602266 (OS Landranger #203)

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These details were last updated on 29/Aug/2012

Trewavas Head Main Cliff

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 105 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Many single-pitch routes up to 100ft to delight the sub-E1 climber, at a crag (actually three) which is often overlooked but sports plenty of delightful routes. Highly recommended: South Groove (E1 5c) and its continuation around and up the perched block, West Wing (E2 5c).

Access notes
Privately owned but permission has been given for climbing. Please treat with care and take your litter home.

Park at the NT car park at Rinsey (SW 592272) (reached from the A394 Penzance-Helston rd by turning off R at Ashton). Follow the coast path about 0.75mile E to reach the main cliff, of which the E crag offers the best routes.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

6.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
16 kph

0.0mm rain
18 °C
28 kph

0.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
28 kph

0.0mm rain
17 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
18 °C
18 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2BodenS 4a 2
3Blackback Slab and CrackHS 4b 2
4Heavy Metal LoverS 4b 2
5Lead Me Out On the Moonlit FloorHS 4b 2
7The PequodS 4a *2
8Foundation and EmpireVS 4c **3
9Captain FlintS 4a 2
10John SilverVD 2
11RogerVD 3
12Over And OutVS 5a  
13Brown SugarE2 5b 1
14DennisS 4a 2
16The Stars Like DustHS 4b 2
17Mantelshelf WallS 4a 8
18RucsacVD 14
19Triple FugueS 4a 18
20Per ArduaVS 4c 11
21Sunshine WallVD 10
22Fool SpiritHVS 4c *2
23CampionVD 4
24Last ResortVD 5
25No Gear, No FearHS 4b 2
27Wild Mountain ThymeE1 5a *4
28The East TowerE1 5b *2
30SidewinderHS 1
31Fran's RouteVS 4c  
32Hot Cross BunS 4a  
33Air Sea RescueS 4a  
34The MockerD  
36CornelHS 4b 167
37Flanker DirectE1 5b 25
38FlankerHVS 5a *79
39SpankerE3 6a 26
40HankerE1 5b *11
41Sam's Indirect Finish To Bending ChimneyVS 5a 52
42Bending ChimneyVD *241
43Side StepHS 4b 99
44Side Step DirectE1 5c 15
45Harvey ProctorE2 5c *19
46The ProwE1 5b 15
47The BowspritE2 5c 4
48FigureheadE3 5c 1
49Debut AreteE4 6a 1
50SimonVS 4c 2
51Green CrackVS 4c  
52SlightD 5
53Gaffer's RevengeS 4a 1
54The TiercelHS 4b 2
55Gaffer's WallS 4a 5
56The PillarVD 1
 Climb nameGradex
57Short'n'SweetS 4a 14
58MouseproofS 4b 263
59From Water to WineS 6
60BrambleVD 156
61GlissadeE2 5c/6a 20
62Avalanche DirectVS 5a 47
63AvalancheVS 5a 197
64Giggle WiggleE3 6a 19
65Easy GullyD 82
66CarrivickVS 4c 86
67Ivy ChimneyVD 152
68Dis LichenS  
69South GrooveE1 5c *75
70West WingE2 5c ***59
71The SerpentE5 6a 2
72ColomenVS 4c *92
73Single BlondesE4 6a 4
74Williams' ChimneyHVS 5a *147
75The Banner VariationE1 5b *62
76Slade's PillarE3 5c 5
77MascaraVS 4c 234
78CrossoverHVS 5a 41
79"It Said Direct!"VS 5a 2
80Joy DirectVS 4c 108
81Nephew's VariationVS 4c 23
82JoyS 4a 335
83SanchoVD 227
84Who needs a Royal Fry-up?HS 4a 10
85Un-namedD 4
86Hubble DrectS 56
87The GrooveD 123
88Hesitation CracksVS 5a 147
89MexicanoHS 4b 189
90The GirdleHVS 5a 2
91StruthE1 5b 1
93NerthVS 4b 3
94TrimsarenS 4a 10
95NoseyHS 4b 9
96White Light, White HeatE1 5b 5
97Turning Up The HeatE2 5b **4
98ColenzoVD 13
99Eyeful TowerE1 5b 1
100Wee-NutcrackerVS 5a *6
101Fast Furious Drive NorthE3 5c * 
102AfterthoughtVD 3
103The TraverseVS 4c  
105First LoveVD 1
106Last RightsD 1
107Shark FinE2 5c 4
108Duck WalkVD 2
109Microseconds CrackS 4a 4
110Gape RideVD 2
111LennoraptorD 1
112Unknown *S 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Massive landslide down the gully leading to Dennis, Brown Sugar etc. Sometime between September 2012 & Jan 2013. Not sure how this may have affected the approach or the route 'Dennis', but might be worth waiting for it to stabilise before heading down the gully.
Tom Last - 30/Dec/12

We had our car broken into at the national trust car park, somebody nicely hammered a screwdriver or similar through the door skin above the locks on both side of the car and found a bag under the passengerís seat. The police informed me that this is not an unusual occurrence for this car park! Please Beware.
Wotsit - 25/Jan/09

A great little crag, which can be quite sheltered and climbable when wind and/or tides make places like Chair Ladder unwelcoming. A lot of the routes are better than the star ratings might suggest (though I haven 't got the latest guide). A particluar gem for the modest climber is Mascara (VS) which has no stars in my book but is really good value
Rog Wilko - 19/Aug/08

South Groove - a lot of E1 for your money ! Williams's Chimney on the E face - only HVS because the chimney is all loose - think light thoughts...
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04