Climbs 106
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Grant resting casually just after the crux © JoeCoxson

Crag features

Many single-pitch routes up to 100ft to delight the sub-E1 climber, at a crag (actually three) which is often overlooked but sports plenty of delightful routes. Highly recommended: South Groove (E1 5c) and its continuation around and up the perched block, West Wing (E2 5c).

Approach notes

Privately owned but permission has been given for climbing. Please treat with care and take your litter home.

Park at the NT car park at Rinsey (SW 592272) (reached from the A394 Penzance-Helston rd by turning off R at Ashton). Follow the coast path about 0.75mile E to reach the main cliff, of which the E crag offers the best routes.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Massive landslide down the gully leading to Dennis, Brown Sugar etc. Sometime between September 2012 & Jan 2013. Not sure how this may have affected the approach or the route 'Dennis', but might be worth waiting for it to stabilise before heading down the gully.
Tom Last - 30/Dec/12
We had our car broken into at the national trust car park, somebody nicely hammered a screwdriver or similar through the door skin above the locks on both side of the car and found a bag under the passenger’s seat. The police informed me that this is not an unusual occurrence for this car park! Please Beware.
Wotsit - 25/Jan/09
A great little crag, which can be quite sheltered and climbable when wind and/or tides make places like Chair Ladder unwelcoming. A lot of the routes are better than the star ratings might suggest (though I haven 't got the latest guide). A particluar gem for the modest climber is Mascara (VS) which has no stars in my book but is really good value
Rog Wilko - 19/Aug/08
South Groove - a lot of E1 for your money ! Williams's Chimney on the E face - only HVS because the chimney is all loose - think light thoughts...
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Black Back Zawn 
2Boden
-
S 4a 2
3Blackback Slab and Crack
-
HS 4b 2
4Heavy Metal Lover
-
S 4b 2
5Lead Me Out On the Moonlit Floor
-
HS 4b 2
 Trewavas Head 
7The PequodS 4a *2
8Foundation and EmpireVS 4c **3
9Captain Flint
-
S 4a 2
10John Silver
-
VD 2
11Roger
-
VD 3
12Over And Out
-
VS 5a  
13Brown Sugar
-
E2 5b 1
14Dennis
-
S 4a 2
 West Crag 
16The Stars Like DustHS 4b 2
17Mantelshelf Wall
-
S 4a 9
18Rucsac
-
VD 15
19Triple FugueS 4a 18
20Per Ardua
-
VS 4c 13
21Sunshine Wall
-
VD 14
22Fool SpiritHVS 4c *3
23Campion
-
VD 7
24Last Resort
-
VD 6
25No Gear, No Fear
-
HS 4b 2
26Pennywort
-
VD 1
27Wild Mountain ThymeE1 5a *4
28The East Tower
-
E1 5b *2
 Sea Crag 
30Sidewinder
-
HS 1
31Fran's Route
-
VS 4c  
32Hot Cross Bun
-
S 4a 1
33Air Sea Rescue
-
S 4a  
34The Mocker
-
D  
 East Crag 
36Cornel
-
HS 4b 209
37Flanker Direct
-
E1 5b 35
38Flanker
-
HVS 5a *98
39Spanker
-
E3 6a 42
40HankerE1 5b *13
41Sam's Indirect Finish To Bending ChimneyVS 5a 64
42Bending ChimneyVD *302
43Side Step
-
HS 4b 118
44Side Step Direct
-
E1 5c 18
45Harvey Proctor
-
E2 5c *21
46The Prow
-
E1 5b 17
47The Bowsprit
-
E2 5c 6
48FigureheadE3 5c 1
49Debut Arete
-
E4 6a 3
50Simon
-
VS 4c 2
51Green Crack
-
VS 4c  
52Slight
-
D 5
53Gaffer's Revenge
-
S 4a 1
54The Tiercel
-
HS 4b 2
55Gaffer's Wall
-
S 4a 5
56The Pillar
-
VD 2
57Short'n'Sweet
-
S 4a 17
58MouseproofS 4a *336
59From Water to WineS 7
60Bramble
-
VD 183
61Glissade
-
E2 5c/6a 21
62Avalanche Direct
-
VS 5a 50
63AvalancheVS 5a *254
64Giggle Wiggle
-
E3 6a 22
65Easy Gully
-
D 91
66CarrivickVS 4c 96
67Ivy Chimney
-
VD 189
68Dis Lichen
-
S  
69South Groove
-
E1 5c *89
70West WingE2 5c **82
71The Serpent
-
E5 6a 2
72ColomenHVS 4c *115
73Colomen Direct StartVS 5a 2
74Single BlondesE4 6a 4
75Williams' ChimneyHVS 5b **209
76The Banner VariationE1 5b *76
77Slade's Pillar
-
E3 5c 5
78MascaraVS 4c **320
79Crossover
-
HVS 5a 50
80"It Said Direct!"VS 5a 2
81Joy Direct
-
VS 4c 124
82Nephew's VariationVS 4c 27
83JoyS 4a *448
84SanchoVD 268
85Sancho Direct StartS 8
86Who needs a Royal Fry-up?HS 4a 10
87Un-named
-
D 6
88Hubble Drect
-
S 64
89The Groove
-
D 141
90Hesitation Cracks
-
VS 5a 166
91Mexicano
-
HS 4b 215
92The Girdle
-
HVS 5a 2
93Struth
-
E1 5b 1
 The Ridge 
95Nerth
-
VS 4b 6
96Trimsaren
-
S 4a 13
97Nosey
-
HS 4b 12
98White Light, White Heat
-
E1 5b 8
99Turning Up The Heat
-
E2 5b **5
100Colenzo
-
VD 15
101Eyeful Tower
-
E1 5b 3
102Wee-Nutcracker
-
VS 5a *10
103Fast Furious Drive North
-
E3 5c * 
104Afterthought
-
VD 3
105The Traverse
-
VS 4c  
 Microseconds Crack Area 
107First Love
-
VD 1
108Last Rights
-
D 1
109Shark FinE2 5c 5
110Duck WalkVD 2
111Microseconds Crack
-
S 4a 5
112Gape Ride
-
VD 2
113Lennoraptor
-
D 1

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