Trewavas Head Main Cliff

Climbs 105 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Many single-pitch routes up to 100ft to delight the sub-E1 climber, at a crag (actually three) which is often overlooked but sports plenty of delightful routes. Highly recommended: South Groove (E1 5c) and its continuation around and up the perched block, West Wing (E2 5c).

Access notes
Privately owned but permission has been given for climbing. Please treat with care and take your litter home.

Park at the NT car park at Rinsey (SW 592272) (reached from the A394 Penzance-Helston rd by turning off R at Ashton). Follow the coast path about 0.75mile E to reach the main cliff, of which the E crag offers the best routes.

West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2BodenS 4a
3Blackback Slab and CrackHS 4b
4Heavy Metal LoverS 4b
5Lead Me Out On the Moonlit FloorHS 4b
7The PequodS 4a *
8Foundation and EmpireVS 4c **
9Captain FlintS 4a
10John SilverVD
12Over And OutVS 5a
13Brown SugarE2 5b
14DennisS 4a
16The Stars Like DustHS 4b
17Mantelshelf WallS 4a
19Triple FugueS 4a
20Per ArduaVS 4c
21Sunshine WallVD
22Fool SpiritHVS 4c *
24Last ResortVD
25No Gear, No FearHS 4b
27Wild Mountain ThymeE1 5a *
28The East TowerE1 5b *
31Fran's RouteVS 4c
32Hot Cross BunS 4a
33Air Sea RescueS 4a
34The MockerD
36CornelHS 4b
37Flanker DirectE1 5b
38FlankerHVS 5a *
39SpankerE3 6a
40HankerE1 5b *
41Sam's Indirect Finish To Bending ChimneyVS 5a
42Bending ChimneyVD *
43Side StepHS 4b
44Side Step DirectE1 5c
45Harvey ProctorE2 5c *
46The ProwE1 5b
47The BowspritE2 5c
48FigureheadE3 5c
49Debut AreteE4 6a
50SimonVS 4c
51Green CrackVS 4c
53Gaffer's RevengeS 4a
54The TiercelHS 4b
55Gaffer's WallS 4a
56The PillarVD
57Short'n'SweetS 4a
58MouseproofS 4b
59From Water to WineS
61GlissadeE2 5c/6a
62Avalanche DirectVS 5a
63AvalancheVS 5a
64Giggle WiggleE3 6a
65Easy GullyD
66CarrivickVS 4c
67Ivy ChimneyVD
68Dis LichenS
69South GrooveE1 5c *
70West WingE2 5c ***
71The SerpentE5 6a
72ColomenVS 4c *
73Single BlondesE4 6a
74Williams' ChimneyHVS 5a *
75The Banner VariationE1 5b *
76Slade's PillarE3 5c
77MascaraVS 4c
78CrossoverHVS 5a
79"It Said Direct!"VS 5a
80Joy DirectVS 4c
81Nephew's VariationVS 4c
82JoyS 4a
84Who needs a Royal Fry-up?HS 4a
86Hubble DrectS
87The GrooveD
88Hesitation CracksVS 5a
89MexicanoHS 4b
90The GirdleHVS 5a
91StruthE1 5b
93NerthVS 4b
94TrimsarenS 4a
95NoseyHS 4b
96White Light, White HeatE1 5b
97Turning Up The HeatE2 5b **
99Eyeful TowerE1 5b
100Wee-NutcrackerVS 5a *
101Fast Furious Drive NorthE3 5c *
103The TraverseVS 4c
105First LoveVD
106Last RightsD
107Shark FinE2 5c
108Duck WalkVD
109Microseconds CrackS 4a
110Gape RideVD
112Unknown *S
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Massive landslide down the gully leading to Dennis, Brown Sugar etc. Sometime between September 2012 & Jan 2013. Not sure how this may have affected the approach or the route 'Dennis', but might be worth waiting for it to stabilise before heading down the gully.
Tom Last - 30/Dec/12
We had our car broken into at the national trust car park, somebody nicely hammered a screwdriver or similar through the door skin above the locks on both side of the car and found a bag under the passengerís seat. The police informed me that this is not an unusual occurrence for this car park! Please Beware.
Wotsit - 25/Jan/09
A great little crag, which can be quite sheltered and climbable when wind and/or tides make places like Chair Ladder unwelcoming. A lot of the routes are better than the star ratings might suggest (though I haven 't got the latest guide). A particluar gem for the modest climber is Mascara (VS) which has no stars in my book but is really good value
Rog Wilko - 19/Aug/08
South Groove - a lot of E1 for your money ! Williams's Chimney on the E face - only HVS because the chimney is all loose - think light thoughts...
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04