Trewavas Head Main Cliff

Climbs 105 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Many single-pitch routes up to 100ft to delight the sub-E1 climber, at a crag (actually three) which is often overlooked but sports plenty of delightful routes. Highly recommended: South Groove (E1 5c) and its continuation around and up the perched block, West Wing (E2 5c).

Access notes
Privately owned but permission has been given for climbing. Please treat with care and take your litter home.

Park at the NT car park at Rinsey (SW 592272) (reached from the A394 Penzance-Helston rd by turning off R at Ashton). Follow the coast path about 0.75mile E to reach the main cliff, of which the E crag offers the best routes.

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BLACK BACK ZAWN  
2BodenS 4a 2
3Blackback Slab and CrackHS 4b 2
4Heavy Metal LoverS 4b 2
5Lead Me Out On the Moonlit FloorHS 4b 2
 TREWAVAS HEAD  
7The PequodS 4a *2
8Foundation and EmpireVS 4c **3
9Captain FlintS 4a 2
10John SilverVD 2
11RogerVD 3
12Over And OutVS 5a  
13Brown SugarE2 5b 1
14DennisS 4a 2
 WEST CRAG  
16The Stars Like DustHS 4b 2
17Mantelshelf WallS 4a 9
18RucsacVD 15
19Triple FugueS 4a 18
20Per ArduaVS 4c 11
21Sunshine WallVD 10
22Fool SpiritHVS 4c *2
23CampionVD 4
24Last ResortVD 5
25No Gear, No FearHS 4b 2
26PennywortVD  
27Wild Mountain ThymeE1 5a *4
28The East TowerE1 5b *2
 SEA CRAG  
30SidewinderHS 1
31Fran's RouteVS 4c  
32Hot Cross BunS 4a  
33Air Sea RescueS 4a  
34The MockerD  
 EAST CRAG  
36CornelHS 4b 169
37Flanker DirectE1 5b 25
38FlankerHVS 5a *84
39SpankerE3 6a 26
40HankerE1 5b *11
41Sam's Indirect Finish To Bending ChimneyVS 5a 54
42Bending ChimneyVD *247
43Side StepHS 4b 102
44Side Step DirectE1 5c 15
45Harvey ProctorE2 5c *19
46The ProwE1 5b 15
47The BowspritE2 5c 4
48FigureheadE3 5c 1
49Debut AreteE4 6a 1
50SimonVS 4c 2
51Green CrackVS 4c  
52SlightD 5
53Gaffer's RevengeS 4a 1
54The TiercelHS 4b 2
55Gaffer's WallS 4a 5
56The PillarVD 1
57Short'n'SweetS 4a 15
58MouseproofS 4b 266
59From Water to WineS 7
60BrambleVD 161
61GlissadeE2 5c/6a 20
62Avalanche DirectVS 5a 47
63AvalancheVS 5a 204
64Giggle WiggleE3 6a 19
65Easy GullyD 82
66CarrivickVS 4c 88
67Ivy ChimneyVD 153
68Dis LichenS  
69South GrooveE1 5c *75
70West WingE2 5c ***59
71The SerpentE5 6a 2
72ColomenVS 4c *96
73Single BlondesE4 6a 4
74Williams' ChimneyHVS 5a *151
75The Banner VariationE1 5b *62
76Slade's PillarE3 5c 5
77MascaraVS 4c 236
78CrossoverHVS 5a 43
79"It Said Direct!"VS 5a 2
80Joy DirectVS 4c 112
81Nephew's VariationVS 4c 23
82JoyS 4a 338
83SanchoVD 229
84Who needs a Royal Fry-up?HS 4a 10
85Un-namedD 4
86Hubble DrectS 57
87The GrooveD 125
88Hesitation CracksVS 5a 148
89MexicanoHS 4b 192
90The GirdleHVS 5a 2
91StruthE1 5b 1
 THE RIDGE  
93NerthVS 4b 4
94TrimsarenS 4a 10
95NoseyHS 4b 9
96White Light, White HeatE1 5b 5
97Turning Up The HeatE2 5b **4
98ColenzoVD 13
99Eyeful TowerE1 5b 1
100Wee-NutcrackerVS 5a *7
101Fast Furious Drive NorthE3 5c * 
102AfterthoughtVD 3
103The TraverseVS 4c  
 MICROSECONDS CRACK AREA  
105First LoveVD 1
106Last RightsD 1
107Shark FinE2 5c 4
108Duck WalkVD 2
109Microseconds CrackS 4a 4
110Gape RideVD 2
111LennoraptorD 1
112Unknown *S 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Massive landslide down the gully leading to Dennis, Brown Sugar etc. Sometime between September 2012 & Jan 2013. Not sure how this may have affected the approach or the route 'Dennis', but might be worth waiting for it to stabilise before heading down the gully.
Tom Last - 30/Dec/12
We had our car broken into at the national trust car park, somebody nicely hammered a screwdriver or similar through the door skin above the locks on both side of the car and found a bag under the passengerís seat. The police informed me that this is not an unusual occurrence for this car park! Please Beware.
Wotsit - 25/Jan/09
A great little crag, which can be quite sheltered and climbable when wind and/or tides make places like Chair Ladder unwelcoming. A lot of the routes are better than the star ratings might suggest (though I haven 't got the latest guide). A particluar gem for the modest climber is Mascara (VS) which has no stars in my book but is really good value
Rog Wilko - 19/Aug/08
South Groove - a lot of E1 for your money ! Williams's Chimney on the E face - only HVS because the chimney is all loose - think light thoughts...
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04