Climbs 105
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Grant resting casually just after the crux © JoeCoxson

Crag features

Many single-pitch routes up to 100ft to delight the sub-E1 climber, at a crag (actually three) which is often overlooked but sports plenty of delightful routes. Highly recommended: South Groove (E1 5c) and its continuation around and up the perched block, West Wing (E2 5c).

Approach notes

Privately owned but permission has been given for climbing. Please treat with care and take your litter home.

Park at the NT car park at Rinsey (SW 592272) (reached from the A394 Penzance-Helston rd by turning off R at Ashton). Follow the coast path about 0.75mile E to reach the main cliff, of which the E crag offers the best routes.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Massive landslide down the gully leading to Dennis, Brown Sugar etc. Sometime between September 2012 & Jan 2013. Not sure how this may have affected the approach or the route 'Dennis', but might be worth waiting for it to stabilise before heading down the gully.
Tom Last - 30/Dec/12
We had our car broken into at the national trust car park, somebody nicely hammered a screwdriver or similar through the door skin above the locks on both side of the car and found a bag under the passenger’s seat. The police informed me that this is not an unusual occurrence for this car park! Please Beware.
Wotsit - 25/Jan/09
A great little crag, which can be quite sheltered and climbable when wind and/or tides make places like Chair Ladder unwelcoming. A lot of the routes are better than the star ratings might suggest (though I haven 't got the latest guide). A particluar gem for the modest climber is Mascara (VS) which has no stars in my book but is really good value
Rog Wilko - 19/Aug/08
South Groove - a lot of E1 for your money ! Williams's Chimney on the E face - only HVS because the chimney is all loose - think light thoughts...
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Black Back Zawn 
2Boden
-
S 4a 2
3Blackback Slab and Crack
-
HS 4b 2
4Heavy Metal Lover
-
S 4b 2
5Lead Me Out On the Moonlit Floor
-
HS 4b 2
 Trewavas Head 
7The PequodS 4a *2
8Foundation and EmpireVS 4c **3
9Captain Flint
-
S 4a 2
10John Silver
-
VD 2
11Roger
-
VD 3
12Over And Out
-
VS 5a  
13Brown Sugar
-
E2 5b 1
14Dennis
-
S 4a 2
 West Crag 
16The Stars Like DustHS 4b 2
17Mantelshelf Wall
-
S 4a 9
18Rucsac
-
VD 15
19Triple FugueS 4a 18
20Per Ardua
-
VS 4c 13
21Sunshine Wall
-
VD 14
22Fool SpiritHVS 4c *3
23Campion
-
VD 6
24Last Resort
-
VD 6
25No Gear, No Fear
-
HS 4b 2
26Pennywort
-
VD 1
27Wild Mountain ThymeE1 5a *4
28The East Tower
-
E1 5b *2
 Sea Crag 
30Sidewinder
-
HS 1
31Fran's Route
-
VS 4c  
32Hot Cross Bun
-
S 4a 1
33Air Sea Rescue
-
S 4a  
34The Mocker
-
D  
 East Crag 
36Cornel
-
HS 4b 193
37Flanker Direct
-
E1 5b 35
38Flanker
-
HVS 5a *93
39Spanker
-
E3 6a 41
40HankerE1 5b *13
41Sam's Indirect Finish To Bending ChimneyVS 5a 60
42Bending ChimneyVD *277
43Side Step
-
HS 4b 112
44Side Step Direct
-
E1 5c 18
45Harvey Proctor
-
E2 5c *21
46The Prow
-
E1 5b 16
47The Bowsprit
-
E2 5c 6
48FigureheadE3 5c 1
49Debut Arete
-
E4 6a 1
50Simon
-
VS 4c 2
51Green Crack
-
VS 4c  
52Slight
-
D 5
53Gaffer's Revenge
-
S 4a 1
54The Tiercel
-
HS 4b 2
55Gaffer's Wall
-
S 4a 5
56The Pillar
-
VD 1
57Short'n'Sweet
-
S 4a 16
58MouseproofS 4a *304
59From Water to WineS 7
60Bramble
-
VD 172
61Glissade
-
E2 5c/6a 20
62Avalanche Direct
-
VS 5a 49
63AvalancheVS 5a *237
64Giggle Wiggle
-
E3 6a 19
65Easy Gully
-
D 89
66CarrivickVS 4c 94
67Ivy Chimney
-
VD 177
68Dis Lichen
-
S  
69South Groove
-
E1 5c *87
70West WingE2 5c **76
71The Serpent
-
E5 6a 2
72ColomenHVS 4c *106
73Single BlondesE4 6a 4
74Williams' ChimneyHVS 5b **187
75The Banner VariationE1 5b *69
76Slade's Pillar
-
E3 5c 5
77MascaraVS 4c **274
78Crossover
-
HVS 5a 44
79"It Said Direct!"VS 5a 2
80Joy Direct
-
VS 4c 116
81Nephew's VariationVS 4c 23
82JoyS 4a *410
83SanchoVD 254
84Sancho Direct StartS 1
85Who needs a Royal Fry-up?HS 4a 10
86Un-named
-
D 4
87Hubble Drect
-
S 61
88The Groove
-
D 133
89Hesitation Cracks
-
VS 5a 161
90Mexicano
-
HS 4b 205
91The Girdle
-
HVS 5a 2
92Struth
-
E1 5b 1
 The Ridge 
94Nerth
-
VS 4b 6
95Trimsaren
-
S 4a 12
96Nosey
-
HS 4b 11
97White Light, White Heat
-
E1 5b 7
98Turning Up The Heat
-
E2 5b **5
99Colenzo
-
VD 15
100Eyeful Tower
-
E1 5b 3
101Wee-Nutcracker
-
VS 5a *9
102Fast Furious Drive North
-
E3 5c * 
103Afterthought
-
VD 3
104The Traverse
-
VS 4c  
 Microseconds Crack Area 
106First Love
-
VD 1
107Last Rights
-
D 1
108Shark FinE2 5c 4
109Duck WalkVD 2
110Microseconds Crack
-
S 4a 4
111Gape Ride
-
VD 2
112Lennoraptor
-
D 1

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