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These details were last updated on 29/Jul/2014

Cinque Torri

Dolomites, ITALY

Climbs 150 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 2238m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Cinque Torri, meaning "Five Towers", is a group of actually more than 5 towers that lies on the south slopes of Falzarego Pass above Cortina d'Ampezzo. It is part of the larger Averau-Nuvolau group in the Cortina Dolomites. The climbs are short - no more than 220 m and usually more like 50 to 150 m - and the peak elevations are low (around 2700m). They are therefore ideal when time is short, for training, for beginners or when the weather is poor in the higher peaks. Every difficulty from UIAA III (5.2) on up can be found. Much protection, almost all belay stances and rappel anchors are fixed.

The five main towers are:

# Torre Grande, split into three blocks known as Cima Sud, Cima Nord and Cima Ovest.

# Seconda Torre , made of Torre Lusy, Torre del Barancio and Torre Romana.

# Terza Torre is also known as Torre Latina.

# Quarta Torre made of Alta and Bassa.

# Quinta Torre also known as Torre Inglese.

# One small tower, Torre Trephor, NE of the main group, fell a few years ago. It serves to remind us, how we must enjoy life and climbing while it is there!

Access notes
The towers can be approached from Cortina in the east, or the Alta Badia to the west. From Cortina take the SS48 following signs for the 'Falzarego Pass'. Follow the road for just under 15km until you reach the large and well signed 'Cinque Torri chairlift' and 'Rifugio Bai de Dones' car park on your left. The chairlift runs from early June to late September and leads to Rifugio Scoiattoli which overlooks the towers. It is also possible to walk up under the chairlift, which takes about an hour.

Alternatively, before reaching the chairlift car park, there is an access track which can be used to drive to the towers. Turn off at a 112km milestone following signs for 'Rifugio Cinque Torri'. Follow this track steeply for 3km and park just before the rifugio. The towers are clearly visible from the parking area. This access road is a steep single-lane road with infrequent passing places and limited parking at the top, so an early start is essential. Additionally, this track is closed between 9:30 and 15:30 during August (and at other periods during the season) and a shuttle bus service runs (most of the time) during these hours.

Guidebooks
The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata (2014), Classic Dolomite Climbs (2008), Arrampicare a Cortina D' Ampezzo e dintori, Dolomiti (2005),
Out of print: Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo (2004), Classic Dolomite Climbs (1988)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 TORRE GRANDE - CIMA OVEST  
2Sinfonia da Hilti6b  
3Alta marea6b+  
4Pompa pompa6c 1
5Mimosa5c 7
6ArmidaVI *7
7Fulmini e saette6a+ 6
8Onorevole Cicciolina6b+ 4
9Onorevole Cicciolina (P1)6a **6
10Chiaro di luna6a+ 6
11Sir. Biss6a 1
12Via OlgaV+ 4
13Via delle guideIV+ 4b **88
14Slabs Left5a *7
15Slabs Right5c **3
16Fra fra6a 6
17Zebra Zabra6a+ 5
18Rosamunda5c 14
19Thomas6a+ 2
 TORRE GRANDE - CIMA SUD  
21Far Left6a+ **4
22Agrodolce6b 3
23Equipe 846b 4
24Ramba Balu7b+ 2
25Ci vuole un fisico bestiale6b+ 1
26Fandango6c 3
27Tommy Tom6c 2
28Variante Tommy Tom7b 1
29Calippo8a+  
30Franceschi6b 7
31Footuk7b 1
32Via col vento6c+ 1
33Variante via col vento7b+  
34Direttisima Scoiatoli6c+ 1
35Variante direttissima7a 1
36Spit express6c+  
37Pazzia rock7c+  
38AraxasProject  
39Sulle ali di Dedalo7a+  
40Nordica7a+  
41Senza nome6c 1
42W lo spot7a 1
43MyriamV+ 80
44Diretta Dimai6a+ 5
45The Left-hand Line6c+ * 
46The Right-hand Line6a+ *1
47Raponzole6a+  
48Fessura DimaiVI- 13
49Nuova Germana7a+  
 TORRE GRANDE - CIMA NORD  
51Idefix7a  
52FinlandiaVI+ 34
53Clarissa7a  
54Columbus7a  
55Farouk7a+  
56Ro Ko Ko6c  
57Asterix6c  
58Olimpic games6b  
59Via DimaiV+ *7
60Via DibonaV 2
61Variante Dibona5a 1
 SASSO CUBICO  
63Swing6a 2
64La danza Left6a+  
65La danza di Pier6a 5
66Ha chiamato kubista8b  
67Telefono azzurro8a 2
68Cliffhanger8a  
69Houi7a+  
 TORRE SECONDA - SOUTH FACES  
71Via del caminoIII **1
72Attenti al lupo6a+ 3
73Via Crupp6a+ 1
74Alba chiara6b 2
75Fantasia6c+ 1
76Per Elisa6b+ 1
77Selezione Guide 20036c 1
78Vague Arete7b+ * 
 Climb nameGradex
 TORRE SECONDA - NORTH FACES  
80Via Lusy PompaninIV- ***66
81Via Ignazio DibonaIV+ ***51
82Via del Diedro - Torre del Barancio SummitIV+ ***38
83Via del DiedroIV+ ***14
84Strani pensieri6c  
 TORRE TERZE/LATINA  
86SorR One6a+ * 
87Dau'delle nevi7a 2
88SoR Three6b * 
89SoR Four6a *2
90Via NormaleIII+ *5
91School of Rock #14c **8
92School of Rock #25a **8
93School of Rock #34a **8
94School of Rock #44a **8
95School of Rock #54b **11
96School of Rock #64a **12
97School of Rock #74c **15
98School of Rock #84c **9
99School of Rock #95a *16
100School of Rock #104b *10
101School of Rock #114c **8
 MASSI  
103Nirvana7b  
104Blob5c 9
105Strip strip5a 9
106Tetto Marcello6b 11
107Bibi e Bibo5c 10
108Fulminetor8a+  
109Senza nome (Massi Slab right)6b 1
110Senza nome (Massi Slab left)6b 1
 TORRE TREPHOR  
112Trephor Slab6c+ *** 
 TORRE QUARTA ALTA AND BASSA, SOUTH FACES  
114Love you6a 6
115Le tette di Paola (left)7a+ ** 
116Le tette di Paola (right)6c **3
117Via Normale Quarta AltaIV- **17
118Torre Quarta Bassa - Via normale (South Face)3+ 30
119Lelo's6a+ 2
120Yu6b 5
121Indios6a 5
122Variante Indios5a 6
123Coscia6a 2
 TORRE QUARTA AND DI MEZZO NORTH FACES  
125Apri e gusta5c 1
126Tinsemal6a  
127Volo a vela6a+ 1
128Quattro spit di troppo6a+ 1
129Quarta Alta Six5c * 
130Soglia acida6c  
131All'inferno e ritorno7a 3
 TORRE INGLESE/TORRE QUINTA  
133Torre Quinta One6a *2
134Torre Quinta Two5c *6
135Via NormaleIV- ***31
136Inglese East #1S **4
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
139Variante Franceschi7b+ ** 
140Spigolo7a+ ** 
141Cliffhanger Right7c+ *** 
142Farouk Left7a+ ** 
143Morfologica7b ** 
144Direttissima ScoiattoliVIII- *** 
145Nordica Right6c * 
146Super coscia7a ** 
147Bassa Twelve4c ** 
148Bassa Thirteen4c *** 
149Bassa Fourteen6a ** 
150Bassa Fifteen5c ** 
151Quarta Bassa One6a+ ** 
152Di Mezzo Seven4b ** 
153Zandalee7a  
154Project One?  
155Project Two?  
156SoR One6a+ * 
Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Much like "strange little creature" this was our first route on our first visit in June 2005. I debated about big boots / rock boots and went for the big ones which I regretted. The sparcity of bolts was a bit of a shock. My experience on the early crux was much as "strange's". An early shock but boldness saw through. I had a small christmas cracker compass on my rucsac which was very useful (invaluable) for locating descents.
nocker - 30/Sep/06

This was my 1st climb in the Dolomites. The Crux move on the west face is on the 1st pitch (facing the refuge with everyone!! watching you thru binoculars) is the hardest with a bold overhanging crux move just below the 1st belay. you'll know when you get to it as you are bent over backwards and will be looking up thru a gap between two halves of a slight roof. Move confidently right for about 1 metre and there you will see a bolt above you. Get your hands high lock in, get your left foot as high as it will go and PULL!! up and left. There will be half a second of "this dos'nt feel very nice!" and then your up. Theres not much for the feet on the move but the hand holds are good and once you are over you get lots to put your feet on. Very subtly the locals will stop and watch you do this move. The descent is by bolted rappel, there are three and the start is visible over the other side of the flat summit. Dont ab too fast or you'll miss the bolts. So read the guide book.
Strange little creature - 21/Sep/06