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These details were last updated on 29/Jul/2014

Cinque Torri

Dolomites, ITALY

Climbs 150 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 2238m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Cinque Torri, meaning "Five Towers", is a group of actually more than 5 towers that lies on the south slopes of Falzarego Pass above Cortina d'Ampezzo. It is part of the larger Averau-Nuvolau group in the Cortina Dolomites. The climbs are short - no more than 220 m and usually more like 50 to 150 m - and the peak elevations are low (around 2700m). They are therefore ideal when time is short, for training, for beginners or when the weather is poor in the higher peaks. Every difficulty from UIAA III (5.2) on up can be found. Much protection, almost all belay stances and rappel anchors are fixed.

The five main towers are:

# Torre Grande, split into three blocks known as Cima Sud, Cima Nord and Cima Ovest.

# Seconda Torre , made of Torre Lusy, Torre del Barancio and Torre Romana.

# Terza Torre is also known as Torre Latina.

# Quarta Torre made of Alta and Bassa.

# Quinta Torre also known as Torre Inglese.

# One small tower, Torre Trephor, NE of the main group, fell a few years ago. It serves to remind us, how we must enjoy life and climbing while it is there!

Access notes
The towers can be approached from Cortina in the east, or the Alta Badia to the west. From Cortina take the SS48 following signs for the 'Falzarego Pass'. Follow the road for just under 15km until you reach the large and well signed 'Cinque Torri chairlift' and 'Rifugio Bai de Dones' car park on your left. The chairlift runs from early June to late September and leads to Rifugio Scoiattoli which overlooks the towers. It is also possible to walk up under the chairlift, which takes about an hour.

Alternatively, before reaching the chairlift car park, there is an access track which can be used to drive to the towers. Turn off at a 112km milestone following signs for 'Rifugio Cinque Torri'. Follow this track steeply for 3km and park just before the rifugio. The towers are clearly visible from the parking area. This access road is a steep single-lane road with infrequent passing places and limited parking at the top, so an early start is essential. Additionally, this track is closed between 9:30 and 15:30 during August (and at other periods during the season) and a shuttle bus service runs (most of the time) during these hours.

Guidebooks
The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata (2014), Classic Dolomite Climbs (2008), Arrampicare a Cortina D' Ampezzo e dintori, Dolomiti (2005),
Out of print: Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo (2004), Classic Dolomite Climbs (1988)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 TORRE GRANDE - CIMA OVEST  
2Sinfonia da Hilti6b  
3Alta marea6b+  
4Pompa pompa6c 1
5Mimosa5c 7
6ArmidaVI *9
7Fulmini e saette6a+ 6
8Onorevole Cicciolina6b+ 4
9Onorevole Cicciolina (P1)6a **6
10Chiaro di luna6a+ 6
11Sir. Biss6a 1
12Via OlgaV+ 4
13Via delle guideIV+ 4b **89
14Slabs Left5a *8
15Slabs Right5c **4
16Fra fra6a 6
17Zebra Zabra6a+ 5
18Rosamunda5c 14
19Thomas6a+ 2
 TORRE GRANDE - CIMA SUD  
21Far Left6a+ **6
22Agrodolce6b 3
23Equipe 846b 4
24Ramba Balu7b+ 2
25Ci vuole un fisico bestiale6b+ 1
26Fandango6c 4
27Tommy Tom6c 2
28Variante Tommy Tom7b 1
29Morfologica7b ** 
30Calippo8a+  
31Variante Franceschi7b+ ** 
32Franceschi6b 7
33Footuk7b 1
34Via col vento6c+ 1
35Variante via col vento7b+  
36Direttissima ScoiattoliVIII- ***3
37Variante direttissima7a 1
38Spit express6c+  
39Pazzia rock7c+  
40AraxasProject  
41Sulle ali di Dedalo7a+  
42Nordica7a+  
43Nordica Right6c *1
44W lo spot7a 1
45MyriamV+ 80
46Diretta Dimai6a+ 7
47The Left-hand Line6c+ * 
48The Right-hand Line6a+ *1
49Raponzole6a+  
50Fessura DimaiVI- 13
51Nuova Germana7a+  
 TORRE GRANDE - CIMA NORD  
53Idefix7a  
54FinlandiaVI+ 34
55Clarissa7a  
56Columbus7a  
57Farouk Left7a+ ** 
58Farouk7a+  
59Ro Ko Ko6c  
60Asterix6c  
61Olimpic games6b  
62Via DimaiV+ *7
63Via DibonaV 2
64Variante Dibona5a 1
 SASSO CUBICO  
66Swing6a 2
67La danza Left6a+  
68La danza di Pier6a 5
69Spigolo7a+ ** 
70Ha chiamato kubista8b  
71Telefono azzurro8a 2
72Cliffhanger8a  
73Cliffhanger Right7c+ *** 
74Houi7a+  
 TORRE SECONDA - SOUTH FACES  
 Climb nameGradex
76Via del caminoIII **1
77Attenti al lupo6a+ 3
78Via Crupp6a+ 1
79Alba chiara6b 2
80Zandalee7a  
81Project One?  
82Fantasia6c+ 1
83Per Elisa6b+ 1
84Selezione Guide 20036c 1
85Vague Arete7b+ * 
86Project Two?  
 TORRE SECONDA - NORTH FACES  
88Via Lusy PompaninIV- ***66
89Via Ignazio DibonaIV+ ***51
90Via del Diedro - Torre del Barancio SummitIV+ ***38
91Via del DiedroIV+ ***14
92Strani pensieri6c  
 TORRE TERZE/LATINA  
94SorR One6a+ * 
95Dau'delle nevi7a 2
96SoR Three6b * 
97SoR Four6a *2
98Via NormaleIII+ *5
99School of Rock #14c **8
100School of Rock #25a **8
101School of Rock #34a **8
102School of Rock #44a **8
103School of Rock #54b **11
104School of Rock #64a **12
105School of Rock #74c **15
106School of Rock #84c **9
107School of Rock #95a *16
108School of Rock #104b *10
109School of Rock #114c **8
 MASSI  
111Nirvana7b  
112Blob5c 9
113Strip strip5a 9
114Tetto Marcello6b 11
115Bibi e Bibo5c 10
116Fulminetor8a+  
117Senza nome (Massi Slab right)6b 1
118Senza nome (Massi Slab left)6b 1
 TORRE TREPHOR  
120Trephor Slab6c+ *** 
 TORRE QUARTA ALTA AND BASSA, SOUTH FACES  
122Love you6a 6
123Le tette di Paola (left)7a+ ** 
124Le tette di Paola (right)6c **3
125Via Normale Quarta AltaIV- **17
126Via Normale Quarta BassaIII+ ***31
127Super coscia7a ** 
128Lelo's6a+ 2
129Yu6b 5
130Indios6a 5
131Variante Indios5a 6
132Coscia6a 2
133Bassa Twelve4c ** 
134Bassa Thirteen4c *** 
135Bassa Fourteen6a ** 
136Bassa Fifteen5c ** 
 TORRE QUARTA AND DI MEZZO NORTH FACES  
138Quarta Bassa One6a+ ** 
139Apri e gusta5c 1
140Tinsemal6a  
141Volo a vela6a+ 1
142Quattro spit di troppo6a+ 1
143Quarta Alta Six5c * 
144Di Mezzo Seven4b ** 
145Soglia acida6c  
146All'inferno e ritorno7a 3
 TORRE INGLESE/TORRE QUINTA  
148Torre Quinta One6a *2
149Torre Quinta Two5c *6
150Via NormaleIV- ***35
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Much like "strange little creature" this was our first route on our first visit in June 2005. I debated about big boots / rock boots and went for the big ones which I regretted. The sparcity of bolts was a bit of a shock. My experience on the early crux was much as "strange's". An early shock but boldness saw through. I had a small christmas cracker compass on my rucsac which was very useful (invaluable) for locating descents.
nocker - 30/Sep/06

This was my 1st climb in the Dolomites. The Crux move on the west face is on the 1st pitch (facing the refuge with everyone!! watching you thru binoculars) is the hardest with a bold overhanging crux move just below the 1st belay. you'll know when you get to it as you are bent over backwards and will be looking up thru a gap between two halves of a slight roof. Move confidently right for about 1 metre and there you will see a bolt above you. Get your hands high lock in, get your left foot as high as it will go and PULL!! up and left. There will be half a second of "this dos'nt feel very nice!" and then your up. Theres not much for the feet on the move but the hand holds are good and once you are over you get lots to put your feet on. Very subtly the locals will stop and watch you do this move. The descent is by bolted rappel, there are three and the start is visible over the other side of the flat summit. Dont ab too fast or you'll miss the bolts. So read the guide book.
Strange little creature - 21/Sep/06