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View larger mapGrid Ref SW 416228 (OS Landranger #203)

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These details were last updated on 04/Nov/2007

St Loy Cliff

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 49 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
High-quality routes on flawless granite nicely spread across the grades. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Notable for Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) and The Baldest (E4 6a). Often quiet - because car parking is a problem.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

6.8mm rain
11 °C
35 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
22 kph

11.3mm rain
14 °C
45 kph

4.5mm rain
13 °C
39 kph

3.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
30 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Ivy IncorporatedVD 59
2Chicory ChockHS 4b 39
3Chicory CheckVS 4b 15
4CheckmateE3 6a 2
5The SnipE3 6a *1
6HarmonyHVS 5b 22
7The HairiestE1 5c 16
8Cress CendoVS 5a *69
9Old FoolsE3 5c 10
10Chlorophyll ClusterE1 5b **77
11The BaldestE4 6a ***23
12The DamnedE4 5c **7
13SupercruiseHVS 4c 60
14FinesseE4 5c **28
15The BarberE4 5c 1
16The Barbary CoastE3 5c 2
17Sloe SteelVS 4c 54
18Mushroom MedleyVD 2
19Broccoli BucketVD 6
20Suede SqueezeS 4a 5
21LoyteringE1 5c 1
22With IntentHVS 5a 1
23Monochrome MenE1 5b **40
24Scarlet WomenE1 5c *4
25The Flying FakirE2 6a 1
 Climb nameGradex
26RaindanceE1 5c 1
27SlapstickE3 6b 5
28MarginE1 5c  
29IbisE1 5c  
30FoxbiteVS 5a 2
31YardangVS 5a 10
32SulcusVS 5a 4
33Cenopod CornerHS 4b 16
34TingaloyHS 4b 17
35Sabre DanceE1 5c *16
36Test PieceE2 5c 14
37Smear FearE2 5c 13
38FlukeVS 5a 2
39co extensive spaceE1 5c 2
40cressVS 5a * 
41Finesse Super DirectE7 6b ***1
42Ripple BlockerHVS 6a 5
43Co_extensive SpaceE1 5c 2
44RabidHVS 5c 1
45Cenopod Corner VariationVS 5a 1
46Castle in the SkyHVS 5b 1
47FlakeVS 4c 2
48The MockingjayE1 5a 2
49SkyfallE7 6b 1
Access notes
The most convenient parking is the limited places at Penberth Cove, about a mile west along the coastal footpath. There is a right of way to the coastal path from Treverven Farm, which has a campsite; parking is not usually allowed here.

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Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09

parking: travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates ! The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04