St Loy Cliff

Climbs 62 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

High-quality routes on flawless granite nicely spread across the grades. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Notable for Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) and The Baldest (E4 6a). Often quiet.

Approach notes

The most convenient parking is at Treverven Farm, where  a fee of £3 (2013) should be paid at the cabin. From here a right of way leads to the coastpath a short distance from St Loy. Free parking can also be found a mile and a half to the west of St Loy at Penberth.

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FAR LEFT PINNACLES  
2The MockingjayE1 5a 2
3Parents, Priests, and PoliticiansE6 6a  
4Co_Extensive SpaceE1 5c 4
5The Unclaimed CrackE2 5c  
 MAIN FACE  
7Ivy IncorporatedVD 69
8Chicory ChockHS 4b 54
9Chicory CheckVS 4b 17
10CheckmateE3 6a 3
11The SnipE3 6a *1
12HarmonyHVS 5b 26
13SnotterE3 6a  
14The BeautifulHVS 5a **1
15The HairiestE1 5c 20
16Old FoolsE3 5c *13
17Cress CendoVS 5a *86
18Chlorophyll ClusterE1 5b **88
19The BaldestE4 5c ***27
20The DamnedE5 5c ***8
21SupercruiseHVS 4c 79
22FinesseE4 5c *33
23Finesse Super DirectE7 6b ***1
24The BarberE4 5c 2
25The Barbary CoastE3 5c 2
26Sloe SteelVS 5a 66
27Mushroom MedleyVD 3
28Broccoli BucketVD 7
29Cat Follows MouseVS 4c  
30Suede SqueezeS 4a 7
31LoyteringE1 5c 1
32With IntentHVS 5a 1
33Sing FlingE4 5c  
 RAINBOW BUTTRESS  
35Monochrome MenE1 5b **49
36Scarlet WomenE1 5c *8
   
 JAMMED BLOCK PINNACLE  
39The Flying FakirE2 6a 1
40RaindanceE1 5c 1
41Erectile ZoneE3 6a  
42Castle in the SkyHVS 5b 1
 SLAPSTICK BUTTRESS  
44SlapstickE3 6b 6
45MarginE1 5c 4
46IbisE1 5c 4
 RIPPLE BLOCKER  
48Ripple BlockerHVS 6a 7
49Crack right of Ripple BlockerS 4b 2
 FOXBITE BUTTRESS  
51FoxbiteVS 5a 2
52RabidHVS 5c 1
 GLOY BUTTRESS  
54YardangVS 5a 10
55SulcusVS 5a 4
56SkyfallE7 6b 1
57GloyC2  
58Cenopod CornerHS 4b 21
59Cenopod Corner VariationVS 5a 2
60TingaloyHS 4b 21
 TEST PIECE BUTTRESS  
62Sabre DanceE1 5c *18
63Test PieceE2 5c *16
64Smear FearE2 5c 14
 THE ISLAND - SEAWARD FACE  
66FlakeVS 4c *3
67Sinister EventVS 5a  
68FlukeVS 5a 4
69Decent RouteVD  
 THE ISLAND - EAST FACE  
71Roll of the DiceVD  
72Twist of the CardS 4b  
73Flip of a CoinVD  
74Flock GrooveHS 5a  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Fluke, on the little "island", is a good route but too serious moving off the ledge for VS. In my opinion HVS 5a. Also, there's two huge rocking blocks on the western end of the island summit. It doesn't seem that it would take much to completely dislodge the lower of the two. This is potentially serious, as the upper block forms tempting thread belays for the route Flake, and the lower block hangs above the most obvious easy descent line.
bpmclimb - 31/May/14
Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09
parking: travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates ! The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04