St Loy Cliff Cornwall, ENGLAND
Climbs 51 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces S
High-quality routes on flawless granite nicely spread across the grades. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Notable for Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) and The Baldest (E4 6a). Often quiet - because car parking is a problem.
The most convenient parking is the limited places at Penberth Cove, about a mile west along the coastal footpath. There is a right of way to the coastal path from Treverven Farm, which has a campsite; parking is not usually allowed here.
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West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992)
Climbs at this crag
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die
Fluke, on the little "island", is a good route but too serious moving off the ledge for VS. In my opinion HVS 5a. Also, there's two huge rocking blocks on the western end of the island summit. It doesn't seem that it would take much to completely dislodge the lower of the two. This is potentially serious, as the upper block forms tempting thread belays for the route Flake, and the lower block hangs above the most obvious easy descent line.|
bpmclimb - 31/May/14
Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09
travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates !
The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04