Climbs 63
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces S

Tom Bunn at the crux of Skyfall. © Tom Last

Crag features

High-quality routes on flawless granite nicely spread across the grades. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Notable for Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) and The Baldest (E4 6a). Often quiet.

Approach notes

The most convenient parking is at Treverven Farm, where  a fee of £3 (2013) should be paid at the cabin. From here a right of way leads to the coastpath a short distance from St Loy. Free parking can also be found a mile and a half to the west of St Loy at Penberth.

Access Advice

The site contains a wealth of rare flora - please contribute towards its conservation by keeping to the existing paths.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
West Cornwall & Supplement (2000)

Out of print:
As fantastic as usual despite the minimal amount of lounging boulders at the bottom. Uncle Nick's pro-parking recommendation is still available and easy to use without blocking access. Finesse is steady E3/4 with only 2 5c friction moves away from good gear and with a possible soft ledge landing. The Baldest is much harder with an okay crux and then several 5b/c friction moves with a 20m fall potential if the very hidden RP is missed. Both excellent routes .
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
Fluke, on the little "island", is a good route but too serious moving off the ledge for VS. In my opinion HVS 5a. Also, there's two huge rocking blocks on the western end of the island summit. It doesn't seem that it would take much to completely dislodge the lower of the two. This is potentially serious, as the upper block forms tempting thread belays for the route Flake, and the lower block hangs above the most obvious easy descent line.
bpmclimb - 31/May/14
Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09
parking: travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates ! The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Far Left Pinnacles 
2The MockingjayE1 5a 2
3Parents, Priests, and Politicians
-
E6 6a  
4Co_Extensive Space
-
E1 5c 4
5The Unclaimed Crack
-
E2 5c  
 Main Face 
7Ivy Incorporated
-
VD 75
8Chicory ChockHS 4b 62
9Chicory Check
-
VS 4b 19
10Checkmate
-
E3 6a 4
11The Snip
-
E3 6a *1
12Harmony
-
HVS 5b 32
13Snotter
-
E3 6a  
14The BeautifulHVS 5a **1
15The Hairiest
-
E1 5c 25
16Old Fools
-
E3 5c *13
17Cress Cendo
-
VS 5a *107
18Chlorophyll ClusterE1 5b **121
19The BaldestE4 5c ***33
20The Damned
-
E5 5c ***9
21Supercruise
-
HVS 4c 91
22FinesseE4 5c *42
23Finesse Super Direct
-
E7 6b ***2
24The Barber
-
E4 5c 3
25The Barbary Coast
-
E3 5c 2
26Sloe Steel
-
VS 5a 79
27Mushroom Medley
-
VD 3
28Broccoli Bucket
-
VD 8
29Cat Follows Mouse
-
VS 4c 2
30Suede Squeeze
-
S 4a 7
31Loytering
-
E1 5c 1
32With Intent
-
HVS 5a 1
33Sing Fling
-
E4 5c  
 Rainbow Buttress 
35Monochrome Men
-
E1 5b **56
36Scarlet Women
-
E1 5c *8
37Scarlet Women (variation start)E2 5c *1
  
 Jammed Block Pinnacle 
40The Flying Fakir
-
E2 6a 1
41Raindance
-
E1 5c 1
42Erectile Zone
-
E3 6a  
43Castle in the SkyHVS 5b 1
 Slapstick Buttress 
45Slapstick
-
E3 6b 6
46Margin
-
E1 5c 4
47Ibis
-
E1 5c 4
 Ripple Blocker 
49Ripple Blocker
-
HVS 6a 7
50Crack right of Ripple BlockerS 4b 2
 Foxbite Buttress 
52Foxbite
-
VS 5a 2
53RabidHVS 5c 1
 Gloy Buttress 
55Yardang
-
VS 5a 10
56Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
57SkyfallE7 6b 1
58Gloy
-
C2  
59Cenopod CornerHS 4b 23
60Cenopod Corner VariationVS 5a 2
61Tingaloy
-
HS 4b 23
 Test Piece Buttress 
63Sabre Dance
-
E1 5c *20
64Test Piece
-
E2 5c *17
65Smear Fear
-
E2 5c 14
 The Island - Seaward Face 
67FlakeVS 4c *4
68Sinister EventVS 5a  
69Fluke
-
VS 5a 5
70Decent RouteVD  
 The Island - East Face 
72Roll of the DiceVD  
73Twist of the CardS 4b  
74Flip of a CoinVD  
75Flock GrooveHS 5a  

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