St Loy Cliff

Climbs 51 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
High-quality routes on flawless granite nicely spread across the grades. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Notable for Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b) and The Baldest (E4 6a). Often quiet - because car parking is a problem.

Access notes
The most convenient parking is the limited places at Penberth Cove, about a mile west along the coastal footpath. There is a right of way to the coastal path from Treverven Farm, which has a campsite; parking is not usually allowed here.

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Ivy IncorporatedVD
2Chicory ChockHS 4b
3Chicory CheckVS 4b
4CheckmateE3 6a
5The SnipE3 6a *
6HarmonyHVS 5b
7The HairiestE1 5c
8Cress CendoVS 5a *
9Old FoolsE3 5c
10Chlorophyll ClusterE1 5b **
11The BaldestE4 6a ***
12The DamnedE4 5c **
13SupercruiseHVS 4c
14FinesseE4 5c **
15The BarberE4 5c
16The Barbary CoastE3 5c
17Sloe SteelVS 4c
18Mushroom MedleyVD
19Broccoli BucketVD
20Suede SqueezeS 4a
21LoyteringE1 5c
22With IntentHVS 5a
23Monochrome MenE1 5b **
24Scarlet WomenE1 5c *
25The Flying FakirE2 6a
26RaindanceE1 5c
27SlapstickE3 6b
28MarginE1 5c
29IbisE1 5c
30FoxbiteVS 5a
31YardangVS 5a
32SulcusVS 5a
33Cenopod CornerHS 4b
34TingaloyHS 4b
35Sabre DanceE1 5c *
36Test PieceE2 5c
37Smear FearE2 5c
38FlukeVS 5a
39co extensive spaceE1 5c
40cressVS 5a *
41Finesse Super DirectE7 6b ***
42Ripple BlockerHVS 6a
43Co_extensive SpaceE1 5c
44RabidHVS 5c
45Cenopod Corner VariationVS 5a
46Castle in the SkyHVS 5b
47FlakeVS 4c
48The MockingjayE1 5a
49SkyfallE7 6b
50Superman GeorgeS 4b
51The Beautiful *HVS 5a **
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Fluke, on the little "island", is a good route but too serious moving off the ledge for VS. In my opinion HVS 5a. Also, there's two huge rocking blocks on the western end of the island summit. It doesn't seem that it would take much to completely dislodge the lower of the two. This is potentially serious, as the upper block forms tempting thread belays for the route Flake, and the lower block hangs above the most obvious easy descent line.
bpmclimb - 31/May/14
Good venue on a showery day. We did Chlorophyll Cluster (worth the journey for that route alone) about an hour after the rain stopped, and it had been raining for about 6hs, and crag was bone dry.
Owen W-G - 10/Jun/09
parking: travel East from the entrance to Treverven Farm. The SECOND field access on the left has some grass verge parking for a couple of cars, and there is more about 800m further East. Don't block the gates ! The top of Sloe Steel has an angry gorse barrier, but it can be traversed round. The abseil tat to the right was added to on 25-6-04.
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04