For a small outcrop, it gets a wide range of grades in. There is scope for further development in the mid-grades; the top levels are taken by Storms Over Africa (E6 6c), Pre-Marital Tension (E8 6c) and Question Mark (E8 6c) all of which have seen repeats. A worthwhile afternoon for climbers of all grades.
Park at Treen carpark (off the B3315); alternatively at Penberth. From Treen, turn L and then sharp L to follow a path between houses and over a stone stile. Take the signposted path beside and through fields to the coastal path. Walk E for 250m to the top of a slope: the top of the W Buttress is visible to the R. Follow vague paths through gorse and grass to the broad top of the headland.
|1||Etron Fou||HS 4b||13|
|3||Back to The Grind||E3 6a||8|
|5||Unlike Siobhan||HVS 4c||10|
|6||Blood Science||E6 6b **||1|
|7||Pass The Pigs||E4 6a **||27|
|8||Lovely, Lovely, Lovely||E5 6b **||11|
|9||Question Mark||E9 6c **|
|10||Kernyck||HS 4b **||77|
|12||Boysen's Groove||E3 5c **||27|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|What can I say! From easy to insane 15 meter climbs, with some of the best faces you will see and plenty of spots for top ropes. A great place for all abilities and to push those technical grades.
Kernack ** (HVS) is the sort of climb that gets newbies hooked for life, an absolute classic.
The only downfall is that one of the most famous climbs in the South Coast area 'Pre-Marital Tension (E6)' is difficult, and not advised, to set up a top rope on. Time to start getting good hey!! |
Vaughan Try - 28/May/03