Climbs 30
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces SW

Tornado southwest of Cribba Head © Tom Last

Crag features

For a small outcrop, it gets a wide range of grades in. There is scope for further development in the mid-grades; the top levels are taken by Storms Over Africa (E6 6c), Pre-Marital Tension (E8 6c) and Question Mark (E8 6c) all of which have seen repeats. A worthwhile afternoon for climbers of all grades.

Approach notes

Park at Treen carpark (off the B3315); alternatively at Penberth. From Treen, turn L and then sharp L to follow a path between houses and over a stone stile. Take the signposted path beside and through fields to the coastal path. Walk E for 250m to the top of a slope: the top of the W Buttress is visible to the R. Follow vague paths through gorse and grass to the broad top of the headland.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
West Cornwall & Supplement (2000)

Out of print:
What can I say! From easy to insane 15 meter climbs, with some of the best faces you will see and plenty of spots for top ropes. A great place for all abilities and to push those technical grades. Kernack ** (HVS) is the sort of climb that gets newbies hooked for life, an absolute classic. The only downfall is that one of the most famous climbs in the South Coast area 'Pre-Marital Tension (E6)' is difficult, and not advised, to set up a top rope on. Time to start getting good hey!!
Vaughan Try - 28/May/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Etron FouHS 4b 19
VS 5a 20
3Back to The GrindE3 6a 12
4Chimney ClimbD 8
5Unlike Siobhan
HVS 4c 10
6Blood ScienceE6 6b **1
7Pass The PigsE4 6a **32
8Lovely, Lovely, LovelyE5 6b **13
9Question MarkE9 6c ** 
10KernyckHS 4b **92
E1 5b 25
12Boysen's GrooveE3 5c **36
13Pre-Marital TensionE8 6c ***1
14HarderVS 4c 62
15Storms Over AfricaE5 6a *1
16Boysen's CracksE2 5c *49
17Sunny Slab
VD 10
S 4a 1
19Skin GraftE2 5c *2
20Mink de Ville
VS 5a  
21Geologist's Route
E1 5b *1
22Crag X
HVS 5a 4
23How Much Longer?
VD 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball