Climbs 130
Rocktype Granite

Faces S

Becky, terriers tooth © ben_lea

Crag features

A huge and intricate sea cliff offering stunning multi-pitch routes up to 70 m, mostly in the S to E1 grades. Solid and endowed with cracks and holds. Must-dos include Pendulum Chimney (S), Pegasus (HS), South Face Direct (VS 4c), Diocese (VS 5a), Bishops Rib (E1 5b).
Note that the start of the classic Terrier's Tooth was affected by rockfall in early 2014. It is now harder and less pleasant than before.

Approach notes

Park at the Porthgwarra car park (pay and display, may become busy in summer and holidays). Follow the tarmac lane uphill past granite buildings on the left. Follow the road in a loop to the left above the houses, then take the path right across heathland to the coastguard lookout. Only the summits of the buttresses can be seen from this level; take care to orient yourself before heading down. Ash Can Gully is the broad gully below the lookout.

Access Advice

Tidal. The base of many routes can only be reached for three hours either side of low tide. However, worthwhile climbing can still be found at high tide, for example
- traverse onto Wolf Buttress from Ash Can Gully to do Aerial or Corporals Route.
- do the upper section of The Mitre starting in Pinnacle Gully
- abseil down East Chimney to get to the start of South Face Direct and Pendulum Chimney (calm seas only).

Nesting fulmars can be a problem in spring and early summer, especially on Bulging Wall and the Main Cliff.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
TERRIERS TOOTH ROCK FALL... pitch of terriers tooth has been taken by the sea! both starts and the ledge which was the 1st belay stance have now gone leaving a slab of smooth granite and some loose rock, it is climbable but a a different grade and with less gear
Stu Bradbury - 22/Feb/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Zawn Rinny 
2Consolation Climb
-
VD 2
3The Naked Edge
-
E5 6b  
4The Groove
-
E2 5c **1
5Aquiline
-
E1 5a  
6Rinny Wall
-
HVS 4c  
7Illusion
-
VS 5a  
 Bulging Wall 
9Maureen
-
HS 4b 15
10The Gingerbread Crack
-
E2 5c *8
11The Great Beast Unleashed
-
E2 6a 1
12Overhanging Chimney
-
VS 4c *20
13Pop Will Eat Its SelfHVS 5a  
14KittiwakeHVS 5a **59
15Seal SlabVS 4c **277
16Great Slab Route
-
D 30
17PegasusHS 4b ***398
18West Face DirectE2 5c **10
19Rake's ProgressVD **89
20Altered Images
-
E1 5b 1
21Kaleidoscope
-
VS 4c *13
22Medusa
-
VS 4b  
 Main Cliff 
24Free Ride
-
HVS 5a  
25Western Arete
-
HS 4c 7
26Great Western Arete
-
HVS 5b *6
27Western Chimneys
-
D 14
28The Thin Red Line
-
E2 5c  
29Beaujolais
-
E1 5b  
30Scarlet Pimpernel
-
E3 5c *8
31The Red Tower
-
E4 6a *2
32Red WallS 4a **120
33Suicide Crack
-
S 4b  
34Centre Piece
-
E2 5c *5
35Central Route
-
HVS 5a *8
36Central Buttress Chimneys
-
VD 2
37Halfway House
-
VS 4c  
38The Shadows
-
VS 5a  
39Neptune
-
VS 4c *21
40ExcelsiorE1 5b **96
41Pendulum ChimneyS 4b ***457
42Detergent Wall
-
HVS 4c *30
43South Face DirectVS 4c ***646
44Southern Arete
-
E4 6a  
45Cleft Route
-
D 8
46East Chimney
-
D 10
 South-East Buttress 
48Almost
-
VD 2
49South-East Face Direct
-
VS 4c *5
50Love 30
-
E1 5a  
51Hysterical Hamsters
-
E4 6b *1
52The Buccaneer
-
VS 4c *40
53Dexter CrackS 4a *25
54Mermaid's RouteVD *69
55Original RouteVD 19
 Ash Can Gully Area 
57Nearly
-
HVS 5a *2
58Not Right
-
VS 5a  
59Just About
-
E1 5b 4
60Not Quite
-
HS 4c 5
61Legoland
-
E4 5c  
62Lizzy's Folly
-
VD 3
63Cave Route
-
HS 4b 2
64The Lobster
-
E6 6b  
65Sea Horse
-
HVS 5b 2
 Wolf Buttress 
67Wolverine Chimney
-
VD 40
68Giant StepsS 31
69Corporal's Route
-
HS 4b *69
70AerialVS 4c **129
71Animated WallE5 6a **1
72CalibanE3 6a *5
73 The TempestE5 6b **2
74Rats In A Rage
-
E6 6c  
75Cut-Off
-
S 9
76Laceration
-
HVS 5a 5
 Bishop Buttress 
78Raider's Route
-
D 3
79Flannel AvenueHS 4b ***238
80Mine Climb
-
HVS 5a 9
81DioceseVS 5a ***648
82The Surfboard
-
HVS 5b 4
83Bishop's AreteHVS 5a **32
84Bishop's Arete / Rib CombinationHVS 5a **2
85The Steeple
-
E3 6a *4
86The SpireE3 5c **27
87Bishop's RibE1 5b ***459
88Cardinal Sin
-
E4 6b *1
89Space Chase
-
HVS 5b 1
90The Mitre
-
VS 4c **79
91The Pawn
-
VS 4c **7
92Ratcatcher
-
E2 5b 3
 The Pinnacle 
94Fat CityE1 6a  
95BlockbusterE4 5c 1
96Golden RabbitE3 5b  
97Expresso BonzoE1 5b *36
98Terrier's Tooth (Pre-2014)VD ***733
99Terrier's ToothHS 4b ***177
100Grit Exiles
-
E2 5b *7
101Masquerade
-
E2 5c 3
102Toothache
-
VS 4c 7
103Asterix In Cornwall
-
VS 5a 1
104Dangle And Mangle
-
VS 5a 2
105Nutcracker
-
VS 4c 5
106The Mauler
-
HVS 5a 1
107Dracula The Undead
-
E6 6b 2
 Girdle Traverses 
109The Girdle Traverse
-
S 2
110The Bishop's Chain
-
VS 1
 Runnelstone Buttress 
112White SlabM 6
113White Slab RightD 2
114Dodge City
-
HVS 5a 2
115Dodger's Chimney
-
D 18
116Close To The Edge
-
HVS 5a 2
117La Speciale
-
HVS 5a 1
118Dead Head CrackHS 4b *1
119Mini Minx Chimney
-
VD 3
120Iron Maiden
-
VS 4c  
121Nautilus
-
HVS 4c 1
122Moon Dog
-
HVS 4c  
123Softly-Softly
-
HVS 4c 1
124The Great Divide
-
E2 5c *1
125Private Performance
-
HVS 5a *3
126Midnight Runner
-
E1 5b **9
127The Gladiator
-
HVS 5a  
128Rock Pilgrim
-
HVS 4c 1
129Super Vision
-
E3 5c ** 
130Fury Of Atlanta
-
E4 6a  
131Master Of Disaster
-
E4 5b  
132Lies, Lies, Lies
-
VS 4c 1

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