Becky, terriers tooth © ben_lea
A huge and intricate sea cliff offering stunning multi-pitch routes up to 70 m, mostly in the S to E1 grades. Solid and endowed with cracks and holds. Must-dos include Pendulum Chimney (S), Pegasus (HS), South Face Direct (VS 4c), Diocese (VS 5a), Bishops Rib (E1 5b).
Note that the start of the classic Terrier's Tooth was affected by rockfall in early 2014. It is now harder and less pleasant than before.
Park at the Porthgwarra car park (pay and display, may become busy in summer and holidays). Follow the tarmac lane uphill past granite buildings on the left. Follow the road in a loop to the left above the houses, then take the path right across heathland to the coastguard lookout. Only the summits of the buttresses can be seen from this level; take care to orient yourself before heading down. Ash Can Gully is the broad gully below the lookout.
Tidal. The base of many routes can only be reached for three hours either side of low tide. However, worthwhile climbing can still be found at high tide, for example
- traverse onto Wolf Buttress from Ash Can Gully to do Aerial or Corporals Route.
- do the upper section of The Mitre starting in Pinnacle Gully
- abseil down East Chimney to get to the start of South Face Direct and Pendulum Chimney (calm seas only).
Nesting fulmars can be a problem in spring and early summer, especially on Bulging Wall and the Main Cliff.
|TERRIERS TOOTH ROCK FALL... pitch of terriers tooth has been taken by the sea!
both starts and the ledge which was the 1st belay stance have now gone leaving a slab of smooth granite and some loose rock, it is climbable but a a different grade and with less gear|
Stu Bradbury - 22/Feb/14