Climbs 250
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces W

dreaded overhangs! © quickthinkingtom

Crag features

Paynes Ford is of the climbing mecca's of New Zealand with something to satisfy most needs - from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang - out types. It's got easy access; there are a variety of grades and types of climbing. The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - it’s even good in mid winter (when the friction is better).

The excellent “Hangdog Camp” lies within minutes walk from the crag and a great swimming hole can be found just across the road. You can buy the local guide booklet from Hangdog (camp) which includes most of the climbs in the Golden Bay region, or Rock Delux / South island rock are the options for a nationwide guide book.

Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Cafe and the Cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainments.

Approach notes

Golden Bay is in the top left corner of New Zealand. If you know where the Abel Tasman National Park is then you are almost there. Takaka is over the hill from Motueka. Follow State Highway 60 on a very windy road (about 50 minutes drive). The Paynes Ford cliffs are in a Scenic reserve 4 km south of Takaka township, just beside the Paynes Ford road bridge. Hangdog camp is 2 minutes walk from the car park.

http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/paynes-ford

http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225

http://www.planetfear.com/review_detail.asp?r_id=459

http://paynesford.blogspot.com/

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Louise10  
2 Big sharks at night22  
3 Terror, illness and rebellion18 1
4 Zen Navigation16  
5 Herbal Infusion19 *4
6 The Darling Buds of May23 1
 Creese Wall 
8Blobbet
-
16 *49
9Good Bye Cream-Poofters
-
17 **55
10Why would you wave at a one armed man riding a bike?
-
25 *2
11Re-election Blues
-
16 23
12Golden Years14 16
13Midwife Crisis
-
13 31
14Calling all hobbits
-
12 *24
15Elvis Lives in Takaka
-
18 *34
16Blockbuster19 *19
17Bite my Chunk19 *11
18The Fearless Vampire Killers
-
20 *30
19Gorgonzola Goes
-
16 *17
20Cheddermaster's Choice15 *11
21Hula Yula6a+ 17
22Spotty Brit
-
24 *8
23Tongue in Groove
-
20 8
24Sweet Dreams22 *3
25Hunting Tartan6a+ 12
26Wasp Factor
-
18  
27Something Precious21 *1
28Rawhide22 ***15
29Rumplestiltskin23 1
30Golden Bay Connection
-
24 *4
31Serac Attack
-
21 4
 RATA WALL 
33Granulated chicken booster
-
22 *1
34Humpty Dumpty
-
18 **4
35All The Kings Horses
-
21 *1
36Savage Honeymoon
-
20 1
37Woop Woop Pull Up
-
22 *7
38Last call for flight 91121 *2
39Bang your head
-
20 2
40Bob and Betty go mating
-
22 1
 The Rat Trap Wall 
42Tales By Firelight
-
21 *6
43Rat Up A Drainpipe
-
20 **25
44Blibo's Great Adventure
-
21 **16
45No rest for the Wicked22 **9
46Immaculate deception22 **6
 Stone Symposium wall 
48Spitfire
-
19 *9
49Seafire21 *5
50Seven Days a Week25 1
51Jericho22 3
52Temples Of Stone
-
18 ***43
53Jimmy the torn piece of paper gets a hand from fred the friendly6b 12
54R for Ranger, D for Danger
-
21 7
55'D' for Danger Direct
-
21 **6
56Space Invader20 6
57Stone Symposium6c **8
58Stroking The Tiger
-
18 **15
59Wazzo Jugs
-
18 *8
60Sacred Forest
-
19 *10
61Autumn Leaf
-
18 *11
 The Tenuite Wall 
63Fluffy Duck
-
21 4
64Hi, I'm Dr Terrific
-
20 **22
65Headplant
-
21 **11
66Walk the Line
-
20 *8
67Loose Unit
-
20 **18
68Go with the flow
-
22 **23
69Fat Cats
-
19 *17
70A Shout Towards Noon16 20
71Badgers mount
-
16 1
72Bent Badgers
-
19 3
73Lapsed Catholics
-
22 1
74Romancing The Stone
-
16 **18
75Grey Warbler (17)17 8
 Pantechnicon Wall 
77Pousse Ton Froc
-
27 2
78Happy Motoring
-
22 *1
79Grey Warbler
-
14 13
80Electric Sunroof
-
23  
 Carnage Wall 
82Carnage at the crossroads6a+ 11
83There Is No Spoon
-
27 3
84Skiing Off A Convex Slope
-
25 ***8
85Responsible Lunges
-
25 **11
86No Fly Zone22 1
 The Slave Wall 
88Primal Scream
-
22 5
89State of Mind
-
14 2
90Three Poms and a Swedish Farafetta
-
20 2
91Daves belay slave gets bored
-
18 11
92Bondage for Beginners
-
17 *13
 Globe Wall 
94Dread Fever
-
14 2
95Super Blonde20 *16
96Feisty Red
-
18 28
97Burly But Sensitive
-
22 19
98Red Lining To The Max
-
23 **14
99Calling Guthrie
-
20 1
100Voice of the Beehive20 *16
101Effervescing Elephants
-
19 1
102Sweetest William
-
27 2
103High Voltage
-
24 9
104Master of Puppets
-
23 2
105Six Foot Thruster
-
21  
106Daves Arete25 ***2
107Suparete
-
27 **1
108Dancing on a Skewer
-
28 * 
109Amino Max
-
27 3
110Amino Pro24 *5
111Recidivist
-
20 9
112Make my Grumpy Cat Dance21 **27
113Dirty harry
-
18 6
114Feeling Lucky Punk
-
26 **4
115Make My Day
-
25 **6
116Overkill25 **2
117Power Failure
-
23 *4
118Stoned Monkey
-
28 *2
119Papageno
-
27 **2
120Dutch Jugs27 *1
121Greenday ?10 3
122Electricorp Production
-
22 ***17
123Send a Gorilla
-
23 ***13
124Feral Pakeha
-
23 2
125Positive Energy
-
23 2
126Superconductor
-
23 ***8
127Creative Confusion
-
27 **5
 Tomorrow Gully 
129Fauvism
-
29 **1
130Wreck Tangle
-
21 3
131Clutch Cargo
-
22 4
132Procrastination
-
26 **1
133Bulga-nomics
-
25 3
134Juan Bautista
-
24 **1
 The Little Globe wall 
136You're Either Dead Or You're Not
-
22 **7
137Tolkiens World
-
26  
138Short Circuit
-
22 1
139Lights Out
-
22 1
140Steinzeit
-
25 1
141Electrocution
-
28  
 The Fortress 
143The Infidel25  
144Pembroke Calling
-
19  
145Rupert Bear Goes Hiking
-
20  
146The What Of What? Said Pooh
-
21  
147Beas Knees
-
17 2
148Peter Rabbit Discovers Drugs16 *3
149No Whack Only Dangle
-
18 4
150Morepork Pie
-
18 *10
151Lush
-
19 **8
 The Passion Slab 
153Indecision
-
16 *5
154Alternative Lifestyle
-
17 *6
155Arachna-obeeelisk
-
17 5
156Champagne Cruise
-
14 *5
 The Little Lost Wall 
158Wrinkle
-
16 28
159Candy Man
-
18 *27
160Jerry Garcia
-
16 *33
161Lost Soul
-
21 **30
162Ecological Itch
-
14 38
163Doolittle
-
16 **45
164The Wrong Trousers
-
15 31
165Wobbly Bits
-
13 *29
166Lucy in the Sky with Prismatic Rain Drops
-
15 *30
167The Bellringer
-
11 *32
168Mind the Hebes
-
12 *24
169Damsel in Dis-dress
-
15 *21
170Knicknack Paddywack
-
18 *32
171Mea Culpa
-
27 5
172Porkage
-
24 2
173Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin21 9
174Release the Bats
-
18 3
175It's a Beautiful Day
-
18 *9
176Misery
-
21 **3
 The Wall of Thugs 
1781080 And The Letter G
-
23 ***15
179Typhoon Tongue
-
22 3
180Java Jive
-
23 1
181Burn, Hollywood, Burn
-
21 2
182Wilt
-
21 *1
183Intensive Scare
-
24  
184Big Mama Jama
-
27 1
185La La Land
-
23 *2
186Flesh Device
-
25 1
187Bicep D'elan
-
22 1
188Dread-full
-
29  
189Dread Carefully
-
24 ***3
190African Head Charge
-
26 ***4
191Jive Bombing
-
24 **3
192Smells Like Fish
-
27 **1
193Fish On Heat
-
26 **2
194Fish On Heat
-
25 **1
195Fish And Chips
-
26 3
196The Good, The Bad And The Dread
-
23 *4
197Subliminal Seducer
-
24 **4
198American Spoon
-
22 1
199Slaprobatics
-
24 2
200System of the Down26 *2
 Rhinoceros wall 
202 Gobble, Gobble, Yum Yum19 **8
203 The Great NZ Clobbering Machine
-
22 4
204Rhinoceros
-
19 **20
205Black Eyed Beauty
-
22 4
206Berlin Wall26 *3
 The Happy Hour Wall 
208Stamp Collection
-
22 1
 The Red Wall 
210Redgates
-
15 *6
211Bored of the Rings
-
19 **9
212The Red Hand of Ulster19 1
 Unknown 
214Trust Me20 1
215Want Some Candy?17 1
216Fraulein Foreskin23 1
217Vertebrae26 1
218Fellatio28 1
219Night in the Dog Box24 **1
220The Last Fish25 1
221Bear Necessitites *
-
18 *1
222The Mot Boy's one *18 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer nz Cragrat