Paynes Ford

Climbs 250 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 28m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Paynes Ford is of the climbing mecca's of New Zealand with something to satisfy most needs - from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang - out types. It's got easy access; there are a variety of grades and types of climbing. The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - it’s even good in mid winter (when the friction is better).

The excellent “Hangdog Camp” lies within minutes walk from the crag and a great swimming hole can be found just across the road. You can buy the local guide booklet from Hangdog (camp) which includes most of the climbs in the Golden Bay region, or Rock Delux / South island rock are the options for a nationwide guide book.

Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Cafe and the Cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainments.

Access notes
Golden Bay is in the top left corner of New Zealand. If you know where the Abel Tasman National Park is then you are almost there. Takaka is over the hill from Motueka. Follow State Highway 60 on a very windy road (about 50 minutes drive). The Paynes Ford cliffs are in a Scenic reserve 4 km south of Takaka township, just beside the Paynes Ford road bridge. Hangdog camp is 2 minutes walk from the car park.

http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/paynes-ford

http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225

http://www.planetfear.com/review_detail.asp?r_id=459

http://paynesford.blogspot.com/

Guidebooks
South Island Rock (2005), Rock Deluxe (2004), Golden Bay Climbs (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE NORTH END  
2Louise10  
3Big sharks at night22  
4Terror, illness and rebellion18 1
5Zen Navigation16  
6Herbal Infusion19 *4
7The Darling Buds of May23 1
 CREESE WALL  
9Blobbet16 *37
10Good Bye Cream-Poofters17 **42
11Why would you wave at a one armed man riding a bike?25 *2
12Re-election Blues16 18
13Golden Years14 10
14Midwife Crisis13 22
15Calling all hobbits12 *19
16Elvis Lives in Takaka18 *27
17Blockbuster19 *14
18Bite my Chunk19 *7
19The Fearless Vampire Killers20 *22
20Gorgonzola Goes16 *13
21Cheddermaster's Choice15 *6
22Hula Yula6a+ 13
23Spotty Brit24 *7
24Tongue in Groove20 5
25Sweet Dreams22 *1
26Hunting Tartan6a+ 9
27Wasp Factor18  
28Something Precious21 *1
29Rawhide22 ***11
30Rumplestiltskin23 1
31Golden Bay Connection24 *4
32Serac Attack21 4
 RATA WALL  
34Granulated chicken booster22 *1
35Humpty Dumpty18 **3
36All The Kings Horses21 *1
37Savage Honeymoon20 1
38Woop Woop Pull Up22 *5
39Last call for flight 91121 *1
40Bang your head20 1
41Bob and Betty go mating22 1
 THE RAT TRAP WALL  
43Tales By Firelight21 *3
44Rat Up A Drainpipe20 **20
45Blibo's Great Adventure21 **12
46No rest for the Wicked22 **7
47Immaculate deception22 **5
 STONE SYMPOSIUM WALL  
49Spitfire19 *4
50Seafire21 *1
51Seven Days a Week25 1
52Jericho22 2
53Temples Of Stone18 ***35
54Jimmy the torn piece of paper gets a hand from fred the friendly6b 8
55R for Ranger, D for Danger21 3
56'D' for Danger Direct21 **4
57Space Invader20 2
58Stone Symposium6c **5
59Stroking The Tiger18 **12
60Wazzo Jugs18 *7
61Sacred Forest19 *8
62Autumn Leaf18 *10
 THE TENUITE WALL  
64Fluffy Duck21 3
65Hi, I'm Dr Terrific20 **16
66Headplant21 **8
67Walk the Line20 *5
68Loose Unit20 **14
69Go with the flow22 **17
70Fat Cats19 *14
71A Shout Towards Noon16 11
72Badgers mount16 1
73Bent Badgers19 2
74Lapsed Catholics22 1
75Romancing The Stone16 **13
76Grey Warbler (17)17 5
 PANTECHNICON WALL  
78Pousse Ton Froc27 2
79Happy Motoring22 *1
80Grey Warbler14 10
81Electric Sunroof23  
 CARNAGE WALL  
83Carnage at the crossroads6a+ 9
84There Is No Spoon27 3
85Skiing Off A Convex Slope25 ***7
86Responsible Lunges25 **8
87No Fly Zone22 1
 THE SLAVE WALL  
89Primal Scream22 2
90State of Mind14 1
91Three Poms and a Swedish Farafetta20 2
92Daves belay slave gets bored18 7
93Bondage for Beginners17 *10
 GLOBE WALL  
95Dread Fever14 2
96Super Blonde20 *10
97Feisty Red6a+ 16
98Burly But Sensitive22 10
99Red Lining To The Max23 **9
100Calling Guthrie20 1
101Voice of the Beehive20 *11
102Effervescing Elephants19 1
103Sweetest William27 2
104High Voltage24 5
105Master of Puppets23 2
106Six Foot Thruster21  
107Daves Arete25 ***2
108Suparete27 **1
109Dancing on a Skewer28 * 
110Amino Max27 2
111Amino Pro24 *3
112Recidivist20 5
113Make my Grumpy Cat Dance21 **18
114Feeling Lucky Punk26 **2
115Make My Day25 **4
116Power Failure23 *4
117Stoned Monkey28 *2
118Papageno27 **2
119Greenday ?10 2
120Electricorp Production22 ***12
121Send a Gorilla23 ***10
122Feral Pakeha23 2
123Positive Energy23 2
124Superconductor23 ***8
125Creative Confusion27 **4
 TOMORROW GULLY  
127Fauvism29 **1
128Wreck Tangle21 2
129Clutch Cargo22 2
130Procrastination26 **1
131Bulga-nomics25 2
132Juan Bautista24 **1
 THE LITTLE GLOBE WALL  
134You're Either Dead Or You're Not22 **7
135Tolkiens World26  
136Short Circuit22 1
137Lights Out22 1
138Steinzeit25  
139Electrocution28  
 THE FORTRESS  
141The Infidel25  
142Pembroke Calling19  
143Rupert Bear Goes Hiking20  
144The What Of What? Said Pooh21  
145Beas Knees17 1
146Peter Rabbit Discovers Drugs16 *1
147No Whack Only Dangle18 3
148Morepork Pie18 *10
149Lush19 **7
 THE PASSION SLAB  
151Indecision16 *5
152Alternative Lifestyle17 *5
153Arachna-obeeelisk17 5
154Champagne Cruise14 *5
 THE LITTLE LOST WALL  
156Wrinkle16 23
157Candy Man18 *21
158Jerry Garcia16 *29
159Lost Soul21 **22
160Ecological Itch14 32
161Doolittle16 **38
162The Wrong Trousers15 25
163Wobbly Bits13 *23
164Lucy in the Sky with Prismatic Rain Drops15 *23
165The Bellringer11 *26
166Mind the Hebes12 *20
167Damsel in Dis-dress15 *17
168Knicknack Paddywack18 *27
169Mea Culpa27 5
170Porkage24 2
171Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin21 5
172Release the Bats18 2
173It's a Beautiful Day18 *7
174Misery21 **3
 THE WALL OF THUGS  
1761080 And The Letter G23 ***13
177Typhoon Tongue22 3
178Java Jive23 1
179Burn, Hollywood, Burn21 2
180Wilt21 *1
181Intensive Scare24  
182Big Mama Jama27 1
183La La Land23 *2
184Flesh Device25 1
185Bicep D'elan22 1
186Dread-full29  
187Dread Carefully24 ***3
188African Head Charge26 ***4
189Jive Bombing24 **3
190Smells Like Fish27 **1
191Fish On Heat26 **2
192Fish On Heat25 **1
193Fish And Chips26 3
194The Good, The Bad And The Dread23 *4
195Subliminal Seducer24 **4
196American Spoon22 1
197Slaprobatics24 2
 RHINOCEROS WALL  
199Gobble, Gobble, Yum Yum19 **7
200The Great NZ Clobbering Machine22 3
201Rhinoceros19 **17
202Black Eyed Beauty22 1
203Berlin Wall26 *3
 THE HAPPY HOUR WALL  
205Stamp Collection22 1
 THE RED WALL  
207Redgates15 *5
208Bored of the Rings19 **8
209System of the Down *26 *1
 UNKNOWN  
211Trust Me *20 1
212Want Some Candy? *17 1
213The Red Hand of Ulster *19 1
214Fraulein Foreskin *23 1
215Vertebrae *26 1
216Fellatio *28 1
217Dutch Jugs *27 *1
218Night in the Dog Box *24 **1
219The Last Fish *25 1
220Overkill *26 **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer nz Cragrat

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