Paynes Ford

Climbs 250 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 28m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Paynes Ford is of the climbing mecca's of New Zealand with something to satisfy most needs - from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang - out types. It's got easy access; there are a variety of grades and types of climbing. The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - it’s even good in mid winter (when the friction is better).

The excellent “Hangdog Camp” lies within minutes walk from the crag and a great swimming hole can be found just across the road. You can buy the local guide booklet from Hangdog (camp) which includes most of the climbs in the Golden Bay region, or Rock Delux / South island rock are the options for a nationwide guide book.

Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Cafe and the Cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainments.

Access notes
Golden Bay is in the top left corner of New Zealand. If you know where the Abel Tasman National Park is then you are almost there. Takaka is over the hill from Motueka. Follow State Highway 60 on a very windy road (about 50 minutes drive). The Paynes Ford cliffs are in a Scenic reserve 4 km south of Takaka township, just beside the Paynes Ford road bridge. Hangdog camp is 2 minutes walk from the car park.

http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/paynes-ford

http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225

http://www.planetfear.com/review_detail.asp?r_id=459

http://paynesford.blogspot.com/

Guidebooks
South Island Rock (2005), Rock Deluxe (2004), Golden Bay Climbs (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE NORTH END 
2Louise10
3Big sharks at night22
4Terror, illness and rebellion18
5Zen Navigation16
6Herbal Infusion19 *
7The Darling Buds of May23
 CREESE WALL 
9Blobbet16 *
10Good Bye Cream-Poofters17 **
11Why would you wave at a one armed man riding a bike?25 *
12Re-election Blues16
13Golden Years14
14Midwife Crisis13
15Calling all hobbits12 *
16Elvis Lives in Takaka18 *
17Blockbuster19 *
18Bite my Chunk19 *
19The Fearless Vampire Killers20 *
20Gorgonzola Goes16 *
21Cheddermaster's Choice15 *
22Hula Yula6a+
23Spotty Brit24 *
24Tongue in Groove20
25Sweet Dreams22 *
26Hunting Tartan6a+
27Wasp Factor18
28Something Precious21 *
29Rawhide22 ***
30Rumplestiltskin23
31Golden Bay Connection24 *
32Serac Attack21
 RATA WALL 
34Granulated chicken booster22 *
35Humpty Dumpty18 **
36All The Kings Horses21 *
37Savage Honeymoon20
38Woop Woop Pull Up22 *
39Last call for flight 91121 *
40Bang your head20
41Bob and Betty go mating22
 THE RAT TRAP WALL 
43Tales By Firelight21 *
44Rat Up A Drainpipe20 **
45Blibo's Great Adventure21 **
46No rest for the Wicked22 **
47Immaculate deception22 **
 STONE SYMPOSIUM WALL 
49Spitfire19 *
50Seafire21 *
51Seven Days a Week25
52Jericho22
53Temples Of Stone18 ***
54Jimmy the torn piece of paper gets a hand from fred the friendly6b
55R for Ranger, D for Danger21
56'D' for Danger Direct21 **
57Space Invader20
58Stone Symposium6c **
59Stroking The Tiger18 **
60Wazzo Jugs18 *
61Sacred Forest19 *
62Autumn Leaf18 *
 THE TENUITE WALL 
64Fluffy Duck21
65Hi, I'm Dr Terrific20 **
66Headplant21 **
67Walk the Line20 *
68Loose Unit20 **
69Go with the flow22 **
70Fat Cats19 *
71A Shout Towards Noon16
72Badgers mount16
73Bent Badgers19
74Lapsed Catholics22
75Romancing The Stone16 **
76Grey Warbler (17)17
 PANTECHNICON WALL 
78Pousse Ton Froc27
79Happy Motoring22 *
80Grey Warbler14
81Electric Sunroof23
 CARNAGE WALL 
83Carnage at the crossroads6a+
84There Is No Spoon27
85Skiing Off A Convex Slope25 ***
86Responsible Lunges25 **
87No Fly Zone22
 THE SLAVE WALL 
89Primal Scream22
90State of Mind14
91Three Poms and a Swedish Farafetta20
92Daves belay slave gets bored18
93Bondage for Beginners17 *
 GLOBE WALL 
95Dread Fever14
96Super Blonde20 *
97Feisty Red6a+
98Burly But Sensitive22
99Red Lining To The Max23 **
100Calling Guthrie20
101Voice of the Beehive20 *
102Effervescing Elephants19
103Sweetest William27
104High Voltage24
105Master of Puppets23
106Six Foot Thruster21
107Daves Arete25 ***
108Suparete27 **
109Dancing on a Skewer28 *
110Amino Max27
111Amino Pro24 *
112Recidivist20
113Make my Grumpy Cat Dance21 **
114Feeling Lucky Punk26 **
115Make My Day25 **
116Power Failure23 *
117Stoned Monkey28 *
118Papageno27 **
119Greenday ?10
120Electricorp Production22 ***
121Send a Gorilla23 ***
122Feral Pakeha23
123Positive Energy23
124Superconductor23 ***
125Creative Confusion27 **
 TOMORROW GULLY 
127Fauvism29 **
128Wreck Tangle21
129Clutch Cargo22
130Procrastination26 **
131Bulga-nomics25
132Juan Bautista24 **
 THE LITTLE GLOBE WALL 
134You're Either Dead Or You're Not22 **
135Tolkiens World26
136Short Circuit22
137Lights Out22
138Steinzeit25
139Electrocution28
 THE FORTRESS 
141The Infidel25
142Pembroke Calling19
143Rupert Bear Goes Hiking20
144The What Of What? Said Pooh21
145Beas Knees17
146Peter Rabbit Discovers Drugs16 *
147No Whack Only Dangle18
148Morepork Pie18 *
149Lush19 **
 THE PASSION SLAB 
151Indecision16 *
152Alternative Lifestyle17 *
153Arachna-obeeelisk17
154Champagne Cruise14 *
 THE LITTLE LOST WALL 
156Wrinkle16
157Candy Man18 *
158Jerry Garcia16 *
159Lost Soul21 **
160Ecological Itch14
161Doolittle16 **
162The Wrong Trousers15
163Wobbly Bits13 *
164Lucy in the Sky with Prismatic Rain Drops15 *
165The Bellringer11 *
166Mind the Hebes12 *
167Damsel in Dis-dress15 *
168Knicknack Paddywack18 *
169Mea Culpa27
170Porkage24
171Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin21
172Release the Bats18
173It's a Beautiful Day18 *
174Misery21 **
 THE WALL OF THUGS 
1761080 And The Letter G23 ***
177Typhoon Tongue22
178Java Jive23
179Burn, Hollywood, Burn21
180Wilt21 *
181Intensive Scare24
182Big Mama Jama27
183La La Land23 *
184Flesh Device25
185Bicep D'elan22
186Dread-full29
187Dread Carefully24 ***
188African Head Charge26 ***
189Jive Bombing24 **
190Smells Like Fish27 **
191Fish On Heat26 **
192Fish On Heat25 **
193Fish And Chips26
194The Good, The Bad And The Dread23 *
195Subliminal Seducer24 **
196American Spoon22
197Slaprobatics24
 RHINOCEROS WALL 
199Gobble, Gobble, Yum Yum19 **
200The Great NZ Clobbering Machine22
201Rhinoceros19 **
202Black Eyed Beauty22
203Berlin Wall26 *
 THE HAPPY HOUR WALL 
205Stamp Collection22
 THE RED WALL 
207Redgates15 *
208Bored of the Rings19 **
209System of the Down *26 *
 UNKNOWN 
211Trust Me *20
212Want Some Candy? *17
213The Red Hand of Ulster *19
214Fraulein Foreskin *23
215Vertebrae *26
216Fellatio *28
217Dutch Jugs *27 *
218Night in the Dog Box *24 **
219The Last Fish *25
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer nz Cragrat

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