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Paynes Ford

Nelson Westland, NEW ZEALAND

Climbs 250 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 28m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Paynes Ford is of the climbing mecca's of New Zealand with something to satisfy most needs - from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang - out types. It's got easy access; there are a variety of grades and types of climbing. The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - it’s even good in mid winter (when the friction is better).

The excellent “Hangdog Camp” lies within minutes walk from the crag and a great swimming hole can be found just across the road. You can buy the local guide booklet from Hangdog (camp) which includes most of the climbs in the Golden Bay region, or Rock Delux / South island rock are the options for a nationwide guide book.

Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Cafe and the Cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainments.

Guidebooks
South Island Rock (2005), Rock Deluxe (2004), Golden Bay Climbs (2003)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	THE NORTH END
2	Louise	10
3	Big sharks at night	22
4	Terror, illness and rebellion	6a+	1
5	Zen Navigation	16
6	Herbal Infusion	19 *	4
7	The Darling Buds of May	23	1
	CREESE WALL
9	Blobbet	16 *	29
10	Good Bye Cream-Poofters	17 **	34
11	Why would you wave at a one armed man riding a bike?	25 *	1
12	Re-election Blues	16	17
13	Golden Years	14	5
14	Midwife Crisis	13	16
15	Calling all hobbits	12 *	17
16	Elvis Lives in Takaka	18 *	22
17	Blockbuster	19 *	12
18	Bite my Chunk	19 *	7
19	The Fearless Vampire Killers	20 *	18
20	Gorgonzola Goes	16 *	8
21	Cheddermaster's Choice	15 *	4
22	Hula Yula	6a+	13
23	Spotty Brit	24 *	5
24	Tongue in Groove	20	4
25	Sweet Dreams	22 *	1
26	Hunting Tartan	6a+	8
27	Wasp Factor	18
28	Something Precious	21 *	1
29	Rawhide	22 ***	10
30	Rumplestiltskin	23	1
31	Golden Bay Connection	24 *	2
32	Serac Attack	21	3
	RATA WALL
34	Granulated chicken booster	22 *	1
35	Humpty Dumpty	18 **	2
36	All The Kings Horses	21 *	1
37	Savage Honeymoon	20	1
38	Woop Woop Pull Up	22 *	5
39	Last call for flight 911	21 *	1
40	Bang your head	20	1
41	Bob and Betty go mating	22	1
	THE RAT TRAP WALL
43	Tales By Firelight	21 *	3
44	Rat Up A Drainpipe	20 **	17
45	Blibo's Great Adventure	21 **	11
46	No rest for the Wicked	22 **	6
47	Immaculate deception	22 **	5
	STONE SYMPOSIUM WALL
49	Spitfire	19 *	4
50	Seafire	21 *	1
51	Jericho	22	1
52	Temples Of Stone	18 ***	29
53	Jimmy the torn piece of paper gets a hand from fred the friendly	6b	8
54	R for Ranger, D for Danger	21	3
55	'D' for Danger Direct	21 **	4
56	Space Invader	20	1
57	Stone Symposium	6c **	4
58	Stroking The Tiger	18 **	11
59	Wazzo Jugs	18 *	6
60	Sacred Forest	19 *	6
61	Autumn Leaf	18 *	8
	THE TENUITE WALL
63	Fluffy Duck	21	1
64	Hi, I'm Dr Terrific	20 **	13
65	Headplant	21 **	6
66	Walk the Line	20 *	3
67	Loose Unit	20 **	11
68	Go with the flow	22 **	13
69	Fat Cats	19 *	11
70	A Shout Towards Noon	16	10
71	Badgers mount	16	1
72	Bent Badgers	19	1
73	Lapsed Catholics	22
74	Romancing The Stone	16 **	10
75	Grey Warbler (17)	17	2
	PANTECHNICON WALL
77	Pousse Ton Froc	27
78	Happy Motoring	22 *
79	Grey Warbler	14	9
80	Electric Sunroof	23
	CARNAGE WALL
82	Carnage at the crossroads	6a+	7
83	There Is No Spoon	27	2
84	Skiing Off A Convex Slope	25 ***	4
85	Responsible Lunges	25 **	5
86	No Fly Zone	22	1
	THE SLAVE WALL
88	Primal Scream	22	2
89	State of Mind	14
90	Three Poms and a Swedish Farafetta	20	2
91	Daves belay slave gets bored	18	6
92	Bondage for Beginners	17 *	10
	GLOBE WALL
94	Dread Fever	14
95	Super Blonde	20 *	8
96	Feisty Red	6a+	12
97	Burly But Sensitive	22	7
98	Red Lining To The Max	23 **	7
99	Calling Guthrie	20
100	Voice of the Beehive	20 *	8
101	Effervescing Elephants	19

	Climb name	Grade	x

102	Sweetest William	27	1
103	High Voltage	24	4
104	Master of Puppets	23	1
105	Six Foot Thruster	21
106	Daves Arete	25 ***	1
107	Suparete	27 **	1
108	Dancing on a Skewer	28 *
109	Amino Max	27	1
110	Amino Pro	24 *	1
111	Recidivist	20	3
112	Make my Grumpy Cat Dance	21 **	13
113	Feeling Lucky Punk	26 **	2
114	Make My Day	25 **	2
115	Power Failure	23 *	4
116	Stoned Monkey	28 *	2
117	Papageno	27 **	2
118	Greenday ?	10	2
119	Electricorp Production	22 ***	11
120	Send a Gorilla	23 ***	9
121	Feral Pakeha	23	2
122	Positive Energy	23	2
123	Superconductor	23 ***	6
124	Creative Confusion	27 **	3
	TOMORROW GULLY
126	Fauvism	29 **	1
127	Wreck Tangle	21	2
128	Clutch Cargo	22	2
	THE LITTLE GLOBE WALL
130	You're Either Dead Or You're Not	22 **	3
131	Tolkiens World	26
132	Short Circuit	22
133	Lights Out	22
134	Steinzeit	25
135	Electrocution	28
	THE FORTRESS
137	The Infidel	25
138	Pembroke Calling	19
139	Rupert Bear Goes Hiking	20
140	The What Of What? Said Pooh	21
141	Beas Knees	17	1
142	No Whack Only Dangle	18	1
143	Morepork Pie	18 *	8
144	Lush	19 **	6
	THE PASSION SLAB
146	Indecision	16 *	5
147	Alternative Lifestyle	17 *	5
148	Arachna-obeeelisk	17	5
149	Champagne Cruise	14 *	5
	THE LITTLE LOST WALL
151	Wrinkle	16	17
152	Candy Man	18 *	15
153	Jerry Garcia	16 *	22
154	Lost Soul	21 **	16
155	Ecological Itch	14	25
156	Doolittle	16 **	27
157	The Wrong Trousers	15	19
158	Wobbly Bits	13 *	18
159	Lucy in the Sky with Prismatic Rain Drops	15 *	16
160	The Bellringer	11 *	22
161	Mind the Hebes	12 *	16
162	Damsel in Dis-dress	15 *	13
163	Knicknack Paddywack	18 *	20
164	Mea Culpa	27	2
165	Porkage	24	1
166	Release the Bats	18	1
167	It's a Beautiful Day	18 *	5
168	Misery	21 **	2
	THE WALL OF THUGS
170	1080 And The Letter G	23 ***	9
171	Typhoon Tongue	22	3
172	Java Jive	23	1
173	Burn, Hollywood, Burn	21	2
174	Wilt	21 *
175	Intensive Scare	24
176	Big Mama Jama	27	1
177	La La Land	23 *	2
178	Flesh Device	25
179	Bicep D'elan	22
180	Dread-full	29
181	Dread Carefully	24 ***	2
182	African Head Charge	26 ***	3
183	Jive Bombing	24 **	3
184	Smells Like Fish	27 **	1
185	Fish On Heat	26 **	1
186	Fish On Heat	25 **	1
187	Fish And Chips	26	2
188	The Good, The Bad And The Dread	23 *	1
189	Subliminal Seducer	24 **	2
190	American Spoon	22
191	Slaprobatics	24	1
	RHINOCEROS WALL
193	Gobble, Gobble, Yum Yum	19 **	7
194	The Great NZ Clobbering Machine	22	2
195	Rhinoceros	19 **	14
196	Berlin Wall	26 *	2
	THE HAPPY HOUR WALL
198	Stamp Collection	22
	THE RED WALL
200	Redgates	15 *	4
201	Bored of the Rings	19 **	7
	UNKNOWN

Access notes
Golden Bay is in the top left corner of New Zealand. If you know where the Abel Tasman National Park is then you are almost there. Takaka is over the hill from Motueka. Follow State Highway 60 on a very windy road (about 50 minutes drive). The Paynes Ford cliffs are in a Scenic reserve 4 km south of Takaka township, just beside the Paynes Ford road bridge. Hangdog camp is 2 minutes walk from the car park.

http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/paynes-ford

http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225

http://www.planetfear.com/review_detail.asp?r_id=459

http://paynesford.blogspot.com/

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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