Climbs 250
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces W

dreaded overhangs! © quickthinkingtom

Crag features

Paynes Ford is of the climbing mecca's of New Zealand with something to satisfy most needs - from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang - out types. It's got easy access; there are a variety of grades and types of climbing. The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - it’s even good in mid winter (when the friction is better).

The excellent “Hangdog Camp” lies within minutes walk from the crag and a great swimming hole can be found just across the road. You can buy the local guide booklet from Hangdog (camp) which includes most of the climbs in the Golden Bay region, or Rock Delux / South island rock are the options for a nationwide guide book.

Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Cafe and the Cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainments.

Approach notes

Golden Bay is in the top left corner of New Zealand. If you know where the Abel Tasman National Park is then you are almost there. Takaka is over the hill from Motueka. Follow State Highway 60 on a very windy road (about 50 minutes drive). The Paynes Ford cliffs are in a Scenic reserve 4 km south of Takaka township, just beside the Paynes Ford road bridge. Hangdog camp is 2 minutes walk from the car park.

http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/paynes-ford

http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/default.aspx?p=225

http://www.planetfear.com/review_detail.asp?r_id=459

http://paynesford.blogspot.com/

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The North End 
2Louise10  
3Big sharks at night22  
4Terror, illness and rebellion18 1
5Zen Navigation16  
6Herbal Infusion19 *4
7The Darling Buds of May23 1
 Creese Wall 
9Blobbet
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16 *43
10Good Bye Cream-Poofters
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17 **48
11Why would you wave at a one armed man riding a bike?
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25 *2
12Re-election Blues
-
16 21
13Golden Years14 13
14Midwife Crisis
-
13 27
15Calling all hobbits
-
12 *21
16Elvis Lives in Takaka
-
18 *31
17Blockbuster19 *17
18Bite my Chunk19 *9
19The Fearless Vampire Killers
-
20 *27
20Gorgonzola Goes
-
16 *15
21Cheddermaster's Choice15 *9
22Hula Yula6a+ 16
23Spotty Brit
-
24 *7
24Tongue in Groove
-
20 6
25Sweet Dreams22 *1
26Hunting Tartan6a+ 11
27Wasp Factor
-
18  
28Something Precious21 *1
29Rawhide22 ***15
30Rumplestiltskin23 1
31Golden Bay Connection
-
24 *4
32Serac Attack
-
21 4
 RATA WALL 
34Granulated chicken booster
-
22 *1
35Humpty Dumpty
-
18 **3
36All The Kings Horses
-
21 *1
37Savage Honeymoon
-
20 1
38Woop Woop Pull Up
-
22 *6
39Last call for flight 91121 *2
40Bang your head
-
20 2
41Bob and Betty go mating
-
22 1
 The Rat Trap Wall 
43Tales By Firelight
-
21 *3
44Rat Up A Drainpipe
-
20 **23
45Blibo's Great Adventure
-
21 **13
46No rest for the Wicked22 **7
47Immaculate deception22 **6
 Stone Symposium wall 
49Spitfire
-
19 *7
50Seafire21 *4
51Seven Days a Week25 1
52Jericho22 2
53Temples Of Stone
-
18 ***41
54Jimmy the torn piece of paper gets a hand from fred the friendly6b 9
55R for Ranger, D for Danger
-
21 4
56'D' for Danger Direct
-
21 **6
57Space Invader20 3
58Stone Symposium6c **6
59Stroking The Tiger
-
18 **13
60Wazzo Jugs
-
18 *7
61Sacred Forest
-
19 *9
62Autumn Leaf
-
18 *10
 The Tenuite Wall 
64Fluffy Duck
-
21 4
65Hi, I'm Dr Terrific
-
20 **21
66Headplant
-
21 **10
67Walk the Line
-
20 *7
68Loose Unit
-
20 **16
69Go with the flow
-
22 **22
70Fat Cats
-
19 *16
71A Shout Towards Noon16 15
72Badgers mount
-
16 1
73Bent Badgers
-
19 3
74Lapsed Catholics
-
22 1
75Romancing The Stone
-
16 **17
76Grey Warbler (17)17 8
 Pantechnicon Wall 
78Pousse Ton Froc
-
27 2
79Happy Motoring
-
22 *1
80Grey Warbler
-
14 12
81Electric Sunroof
-
23  
 Carnage Wall 
83Carnage at the crossroads6a+ 11
84There Is No Spoon
-
27 3
85Skiing Off A Convex Slope
-
25 ***7
86Responsible Lunges
-
25 **11
87No Fly Zone22 1
 The Slave Wall 
89Primal Scream
-
22 5
90State of Mind
-
14 1
91Three Poms and a Swedish Farafetta
-
20 2
92Daves belay slave gets bored
-
18 9
93Bondage for Beginners
-
17 *12
 Globe Wall 
95Dread Fever
-
14 2
96Super Blonde20 *13
97Feisty Red
-
6a+ 20
98Burly But Sensitive
-
22 13
99Red Lining To The Max
-
23 **12
100Calling Guthrie
-
20 1
101Voice of the Beehive20 *14
102Effervescing Elephants
-
19 1
103Sweetest William
-
27 2
104High Voltage
-
24 8
105Master of Puppets
-
23 2
106Six Foot Thruster
-
21  
107Daves Arete25 ***2
108Suparete
-
27 **1
109Dancing on a Skewer
-
28 * 
110Amino Max
-
27 3
111Amino Pro24 *4
112Recidivist
-
20 8
113Make my Grumpy Cat Dance21 **25
114Feeling Lucky Punk
-
26 **4
115Make My Day
-
25 **5
116Power Failure
-
23 *4
117Stoned Monkey
-
28 *2
118Papageno
-
27 **2
119Greenday ?10 3
120Electricorp Production
-
22 ***16
121Send a Gorilla
-
23 ***11
122Feral Pakeha
-
23 2
123Positive Energy
-
23 2
124Superconductor
-
23 ***8
125Creative Confusion
-
27 **5
 Tomorrow Gully 
127Fauvism
-
29 **1
128Wreck Tangle
-
21 3
129Clutch Cargo
-
22 3
130Procrastination
-
26 **1
131Bulga-nomics
-
25 3
132Juan Bautista
-
24 **1
 The Little Globe wall 
134You're Either Dead Or You're Not
-
22 **7
135Tolkiens World
-
26  
136Short Circuit
-
22 1
137Lights Out
-
22 1
138Steinzeit
-
25 1
139Electrocution
-
28  
 The Fortress 
141The Infidel
-
25  
142Pembroke Calling
-
19  
143Rupert Bear Goes Hiking
-
20  
144The What Of What? Said Pooh
-
21  
145Beas Knees
-
17 1
146Peter Rabbit Discovers Drugs16 *2
147No Whack Only Dangle
-
18 3
148Morepork Pie
-
18 *10
149Lush
-
19 **8
 The Passion Slab 
151Indecision
-
16 *5
152Alternative Lifestyle
-
17 *5
153Arachna-obeeelisk
-
17 5
154Champagne Cruise
-
14 *5
 The Little Lost Wall 
156Wrinkle
-
16 27
157Candy Man
-
18 *25
158Jerry Garcia
-
16 *31
159Lost Soul
-
21 **27
160Ecological Itch
-
14 37
161Doolittle
-
16 **42
162The Wrong Trousers
-
15 29
163Wobbly Bits
-
13 *26
164Lucy in the Sky with Prismatic Rain Drops
-
15 *27
165The Bellringer
-
11 *30
166Mind the Hebes
-
12 *22
167Damsel in Dis-dress
-
15 *19
168Knicknack Paddywack
-
18 *29
169Mea Culpa
-
27 5
170Porkage
-
24 2
171Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin21 9
172Release the Bats
-
18 2
173It's a Beautiful Day
-
18 *9
174Misery
-
21 **3
 The Wall of Thugs 
1761080 And The Letter G
-
23 ***15
177Typhoon Tongue
-
22 3
178Java Jive
-
23 1
179Burn, Hollywood, Burn
-
21 2
180Wilt
-
21 *1
181Intensive Scare
-
24  
182Big Mama Jama
-
27 1
183La La Land
-
23 *2
184Flesh Device
-
25 1
185Bicep D'elan
-
22 1
186Dread-full
-
29  
187Dread Carefully
-
24 ***3
188African Head Charge
-
26 ***4
189Jive Bombing
-
24 **3
190Smells Like Fish
-
27 **1
191Fish On Heat
-
26 **2
192Fish On Heat
-
25 **1
193Fish And Chips
-
26 3
194The Good, The Bad And The Dread
-
23 *4
195Subliminal Seducer
-
24 **4
196American Spoon
-
22 1
197Slaprobatics
-
24 2
 Rhinoceros wall 
199Gobble, Gobble, Yum Yum19 **8
200The Great NZ Clobbering Machine
-
22 4
201Rhinoceros
-
19 **19
202Black Eyed Beauty
-
22 3
203Berlin Wall26 *3
 The Happy Hour Wall 
205Stamp Collection
-
22 1
 The Red Wall 
207Redgates
-
15 *6
208Bored of the Rings
-
19 **9
209System of the Down26 *2
 Unknown 
211Trust Me20 1
212Want Some Candy?17 1
213The Red Hand of Ulster19 1
214Fraulein Foreskin23 1
215Vertebrae26 1
216Fellatio28 1
217Dutch Jugs27 *1
218Night in the Dog Box24 **1
219The Last Fish25 1
220Overkill26 **2
221Dirty harry
-
18 3

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