Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

Climbs 190 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
One of the best crags in Wales, with multi-pitch routes up to 250ft. Many classic including Christmas Curry (S), One Step In The Clouds (VS 4c), The Plum (E1 5b), the unbeatable Vector (E2 5c), Void (E3 6a), Zukator (E4 6a) and of course Strawberries (E7 6b) and Dream Topping (E7 6c). Often busy with people exiled by the weather in the Pass.

Access notes
Park near Eric's Caff off the A498. The crag is to the right. Finding the bottom of routes often involves jungle-bashing, so try to work out where you want to be early on. Walk off from the top if possible, and if abseiling is essential then leave a sling around the tree - don't run your rope around it (as that severely damages both).

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Classics (2010), Tremadog (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GRASPER BUTTRESS  
2GilljoVD *123
3Rip TornE2 5c *3
4Valerie's RibHS 4a **1146
5Valerie's Rib DirectS 112
6ValorE2 5c **133
7DiscretionE2 5c  
8The Pink FridgeE3 5c *1
9The GrasperE2 5c ***150
10New ManagementE3 6a  
11Zukator / Grasper ConnectionE3 5c ***24
12ZukatorE4 6a **51
13The Man Who Fell to EarthE4 6a *2
14The Man Who Fell To Earth Direct FinishE5 6b  
15Quite Easy for Big HeadsE6 6b * 
16Marathon ManE5 6a **2
17Marathon Man VariationE5 6a  
18Clapton's CrackVS 4c **195
19The SwordHS 1
20Clean EdgeE3 6a **10
 NEB BUTTRESS  
22Kestrel CracksHVS 5a **242
23The NebE2 5c **82
24Broken EdgeE2 5c *11
25Neb DirectE4 6a ***37
26DotheboysE2 6a **8
27AnagramE2 5c **14
28Final ExamE2 5c *4
 PLUM BUTTRESS  
30Magic MushroomE2 5b  
31GrottoVS 4c *95
32Grotto DirectHVS 5a **98
33VindalooE2 5c 18
34Christmas CurryS 4a ***1756
35Christmas Curry / Micah EliminateHS 4a ***1480
36Christmas Curry / Finish Of MomentsE3 5b 1
37Christmas Curry / Treemudrock Finish (aka Duff Plum Finish)VS 4c **66
38Christmas Curry / Lleolwyr FinishE1 5b 22
39Taste Of ThunderE2 5c  
40The PlumE1 5b ***796
41The Plum - Crack Addict StartE2 5c 24
42BombshellHVS 5a  
 FANG BUTTRESS  
44MolarHVS 5b 7
45Footless FrenzyHVS 5a  
46QuimboE2 6a  
47The FangHVS 5a ***740
48The RootE2 5c **12
49ExtractionE2 5c **233
50StripteaseVS 5a **756
51BurlesqueE3 6a **26
52High KicksE3 5c *3
53G StringHVS 5a *57
54TriangulumHS 22
55Gangani GrooveE1 6a * 
 VECTOR BUTTRESS  
57Hail BebeVD **917
58One Step in the CloudsVS 4c ***2338
59Dark SideE2 6a *5
60Sultans of SwingE4 6a ***15
61DiadicE1 5b **160
62NimbusE2 5c **109
63Weaver / Nimbus ConnectionE2 5c **7
64The WeaverE2 5c ***271
65BananasE5 6b **9
66LlanberriesE7 6c * 
67StrawberriesE7 6b **5
68Dream ToppingE7 7a *** 
69CreamE4 6a ***184
70VectorE2 5c ***683
71The CroakerE3 5c *16
72The Atomic Finger FlakeE4 6a **54
73Swift UndercutE7 6c * 
74RaspberriesE4 6b  
75VoidE4 6a ***147
76The MongooseE5 6a **5
77The SnakeE2 5c **61
78The PhiltrumE6 6b **3
 SHADRACH BUTTRESS  
80Rinkrank variation startE2 5c * 
81Grim Wall DirectE1 5b **733
82An Argument Among PlanktonE3 6a *2
83Leg BreakE3 5c *12
84Grim WallVS 4c **1202
85Ham RouteVS 4c 6
86MeshachHVS 5a **894
87Meshach / Rattlesnake finishE2 5c *36
88BlinkersE2 5b *6
89Leg break / Meshach / Blinkers HybridE1 5b ***32
90ShadrachVS 4c **1077
91The BrothersVS 4c *268
92The Brothers Direct FinishE1 5b **49
93What EverVS 5a 1
94The Brothers Independent FinishE1 5b 17
95OblatronE3 5c 2
96Emily StreetE2 5c *8
97CarloE1 5b *2
98SometimesE3 6a *2
 SLIPS AREA  
100Semper Dexter Nil SinisterE1 5b *3
101Bashi BazoukE1 5b *12
102Nifl-HeimHVS 5a **143
103Pizzle PuzzleE3 5c  
104Pretzl LogicE2 5c **49
105VenomE3 6a **78
106Time SlipE3 6a  
107Certain SlipE3 6a  
108Leg SlipE1 5b **406
109First SlipE1 5c **277
110Leg Break FinishE2 5c  
111Freudian SlipE2 5c 8
112Slip ShodE3 5c 1
113The JackalE1 5b 1
114SlipwayHVS 5a 1
115Breeze ButtressVD  
116Glade wayVS 5
117Sail MaliHVS 5a  
118SolitaireE1 5b  
119Crazy DiamondE1 5b  
 OAKOVER BUTTRESS  
121Knell for a JackdawS *65
122HederaHVS 5a **36
123HeaderaHVS 5a 2
124OakoverVS 4c *140
125BloodsuckerE2 5c *15
126HeartlineE2 5c **38
127AxeoverVS 4c **82
128FFalabalamVS 4c *23
129AxeminsterVD 42
130FohnHS 4b *15
131ChinookVS 4c *2
 MERLIN BUTTRESS  
133Down To EarthE2 5c  
134Re-Enter DownE2 6a * 
135Re-entryE2 6a 4
136BelshazzarHVS 5a **137
137EarthseaHVS 5a 8
138Daddy CoolE2 5c **107
139SalamandaE1 5b 44
140The StingE2 5c *42
141Daddy Cool/The StingE2 5c **7
142Heartbreak HotelHS 1
143RienettaVS 4c 134
144Rienetta Variation StartVS **7
145DragonE2 6b 1
146MerlinVS 5a **514
147Merlin DirectHVS 5a ***1050
148VultureE4 6a **61
149Vulture DirectE4 6a  
150GeireagleE3 5c **165
151Y BrogaHVS 5a *260
152O BrotherVS 4b 2
153OberonS 4b *1112
154What's In A Name?E3 5c  
155Oberon Original StartHS 4c 52
156Oberon Easy StartD 8
157Oberon Variation FinishHS 4c 58
158Trivial PursuitsE3 6a  
159KaoE5 6a *1
160Emotional CrisisE4 5c *4
161Tout FouE2 5c  
162Bombon El PerroE1 5c  
163Santa's Little HelperE1 5b  
 FAR EASTERN SLABS  
165Frog NoiseVD 10
166Cracked SlabD 91
 BOO-BOO BUTTRESS  
168Park LifeVS 5a 2
169Boo-BooVD *755
170Starship TrooperE4 5c *2
171TweekE4 6a  
172Rock On TommyE4 6a * 
173Hot RatsE4 6a *2
 BORNEO BUTTRESS  
175MarinoVS 4b 1
176GeronimoE2 5c *4
177Savage ManE4 6a  
178BorneoVS 4c *91
179OmoHS 4a 1
180QuercusHS 4b *5
181CynhyrchwyrVS 4c 92
182Tree RadicalHVS 5b 6
183RioHS 4b *249
184Cynchwyr/RioVS 4b *12
 YOGI AREA  
186GwaedE1 5b *48
187PlaceboE3 5c  
188PenicillinE4 6b 1
189ChwysE2 5b **125
190Sheer KhanHVS 5a 13
191Sheer ResistE4 6b *1
192Sheer Khan Right HandS 4a **127
193Keep It RetroHVS 5a 3
194Smarter Than The Average BearVS 4c 141
195YogiVS 4b 805
196Mr RangerVS 4c *111
197MysophobiaVS 4c 4
198Silver ShadowE2 5c  
199TroHS 4a *139
200DagrauE1 5b 44
201LlafurE1 5b *49
202Gardien Des ÉtoilesVS 4b 3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The climb listed here as 'striptease' - vs 5a has recently suffered from a rockfall in the lower section of its first pitch. Some loose rock may remain. Be wary of further rockfall on this route
dmaldonado - 04/May/14
After learning to climb for 4 weeks came here to climb and did shadrach through the crack (chimney) that was annoyingly difficult to get through but a good experience.
Shane Standing - 25/Oct/10
Did Leg Slip recently - it might be a bit harder than HVS Roger Grimshaw
JRG - 09/Jun/09
i am from south wales and it was my first time at tremadog and i thought the overall grades were a bit tougher than the likes of wintours leap and shorncliff
jason morris - 18/Oct/05
When I first started to climb I went to North Wales to get away from the crumbly limestone of the Wye valley where I live. My first climb in Tremadog was Yogi (VS) and I found it probably one of best climbs I have ever done, or certainly the best VS I have ever done. Lovely rock, and when the protection is there it is brilliant and I seem to recall a good abseil station from the top. Nice easy climbing!
Sam Trefgarne - 15/Feb/02