Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

Climbs 190 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

One of the best crags in Wales, with multi-pitch routes up to 250ft. Many classic including Christmas Curry (S), One Step In The Clouds (VS 4c), The Plum (E1 5b), the unbeatable Vector (E2 5c), Void (E3 6a), Zukator (E4 6a) and of course Strawberries (E7 6b) and Dream Topping (E7 6c). Often busy with people exiled by the weather in the Pass.

Approach notes

Park near Eric's Caff off the A498. The crag is to the right. Finding the bottom of routes often involves jungle-bashing, so try to work out where you want to be early on. Walk off from the top if possible, and if abseiling is essential then leave a sling around the tree - don't run your rope around it (as that severely damages both).


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Tremadog (2010), North Wales Classics (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 VALERIE'S RIB AREA  
2GilljoVD *136
3Rip TornE2 5c *3
4Valerie's RibHS 4b **1246
5Valerie's Rib DirectS 118
6ValorE2 5c **142
7DiscretionE2 5c  
8The Pink FridgeE3 5c *1
9The GrasperE2 5c ***170
10New ManagementE3 6a  
11Zukator / Grasper ConnectionE3 5c ***30
12ZukatorE4 6b **58
13The Man Who Fell to EarthE4 6a *2
14The Man Who Fell To Earth Direct FinishE5 6b  
15Quite Easy for Big HeadsE6 6b * 
16Marathon ManE5 6a **2
17Marathon Man VariationE5 6a  
18Clapton's CrackVS 4c *217
19The SwordHS 1
20Clean EdgeE3 6a **10
 NEB BUTTRESS  
22Kestrel CracksHVS 5a **257
23The NebE2 5c **91
24Broken EdgeE2 5c *11
25Neb DirectE4 6a **37
26DotheboysE2 6a **8
27AnagramE2 5c **14
28Final ExamE2 5c *4
 PLUM BUTTRESS  
30Magic MushroomE2 5b  
31GrottoVS 4c *106
32Grotto DirectHVS 5a **119
33VindalooE2 5c 18
34Christmas CurryS 4a ***1913
35Christmas Curry / Micah EliminateHS 4b ***1637
36Christmas Curry / Finish Of MomentsE3 5b 1
37Christmas Curry / Treemudrock Finish (aka Duff Plum Finish)VS 4c **75
38Christmas Curry / Lleolwyr FinishE1 5b 24
39Taste Of ThunderE2 5c  
40The PlumE1 5b ***902
41The Plum - Crack Addict StartE2 5c 32
42BombshellHVS 5a  
 FANG BUTTRESS  
44MolarHVS 5b 9
45Footless FrenzyHVS 5a  
46QuimboE2 6a  
47The FangHVS 5a ***808
48The RootE2 5c **12
49ExtractionE2 5c **267
50StripteaseVS 5a **823
51BurlesqueE3 6a **27
52High KicksE3 5c *4
53G StringHVS 5a *64
54TriangulumHS 24
55Gangani GrooveE1 6a * 
 ONE STEP IN THE CLOUDS  
57Hail BebeVD **1040
58One Step in the CloudsVS 4c ***2569
59Dark SideE2 6a *7
 VECTOR BUTTRESS  
61Sultans of SwingE4 6a ***17
62DiadicE1 5b **175
63NimbusE2 5c **120
64Weaver / Nimbus ConnectionE2 5c **9
65The WeaverE2 5c ***307
66BananasE5 6b **12
67LlanberriesE7 6c * 
68StrawberriesE7 6b ***10
69Dream ToppingE7 7a *** 
70CreamE4 6a ***209
71VectorE2 5c ***746
72The CroakerE3 5c *18
73The Atomic Finger FlakeE4 6a **53
74Swift UndercutE7 6c * 
75RaspberriesE4 6b  
76VoidE4 6a ***164
77The MongooseE5 6a **6
78The SnakeE2 5c ***65
79The PhiltrumE6 6b **3
 GRIM WALL  
81Rinkrank variation startE2 5c * 
82Grim Wall DirectE1 5b **821
83An Argument Among PlanktonE3 6a *3
84Leg BreakE3 5c *17
85Grim WallVS 4c **1309
86Ham RouteVS 4c 10
87MeshachHVS 5a ***986
88Meshach / Rattlesnake finishE2 5c *37
89BlinkersE2 5b *9
90Leg break / Meshach / Blinkers HybridE2 5c ***46
91ShadrachVS 4c **1171
92The BrothersVS 4c **306
93The Brothers Direct FinishE1 5b **60
94What EverVS 5a 1
95The Brothers Independent FinishE1 5b 22
96OblatronE3 5c 3
97Emily StreetE2 5c *8
98CarloE1 5b *5
99SometimesE3 6a *2
 LEG SLIP  
101Semper Dexter Nil SinisterE1 5b *3
102Bashi BazoukE1 5b *14
103Nifl-HeimHVS 5a **168
104Pizzle PuzzleE3 5c  
105Pretzl LogicE2 5c **50
106VenomE3 6a **91
107Time SlipE3 6a  
108Certain SlipE3 6a 1
109Leg SlipE1 5b **449
110First SlipE1 5c **304
111Leg Break FinishE2 5c  
112Freudian SlipE2 5c 8
113Slip ShodE3 5c 1
114The JackalE1 5b 1
115SlipwayHVS 5a 1
116Breeze ButtressVD  
117Glade wayVS 5
118Sail MaliHVS 5a  
119SolitaireE1 5b  
120Crazy DiamondE1 5b  
 OAKOVER BUTTRESS  
122Knell for a JackdawS *75
123HederaHVS 5a **42
124HeaderaHVS 5a 2
125OakoverVS 4c *154
126BloodsuckerE2 5c *17
127HeartlineE2 5c **48
128AxeoverVS 4c **96
129FFalabalamVS 4c *36
130AxeminsterVD 49
131FohnHS 4b *15
132ChinookVS 4c *3
 MERLIN BUTTRESS  
134Down To EarthE2 5c  
135Re-Enter DownE2 6a * 
136Re-entryE2 6a 4
137BelshazzarHVS 5a **159
138EarthseaHVS 5a 9
139Daddy CoolE2 5c *117
140SalamandaE1 5b 45
141The StingE2 5c *46
142Daddy Cool/The StingE2 5c **12
143Heartbreak HotelHS 2
144RienettaHS 4a **150
145Rienetta Variation StartVS **11
146DragonE2 6b 1
147MerlinVS 5a *555
148Merlin DirectHVS 5a ***1174
149VultureE4 6a ***65
150Vulture DirectE4 6a  
151GeireagleE3 5c **179
152Y BrogaHVS 5a *282
153O BrotherVS 4b 2
154OberonS 4b *1191
155What's In A Name?E3 5c  
156Oberon Original StartHS 4c 60
157Oberon Easy StartD 13
158Oberon Variation FinishHS 4c 58
159Trivial PursuitsE3 6a  
160KaoE5 6a *1
161Emotional CrisisE4 5c *4
162Tout FouE2 5c  
163Bombon El PerroE1 5c  
164Santa's Little HelperE1 5b  
 FAR EASTERN SLABS  
166Frog NoiseVD 11
167Cracked SlabD 96
 BOO-BOO BUTTRESS  
169Park LifeVS 5a 3
170Boo-BooD *803
171Starship TrooperE4 5c *2
172TweekE4 6a  
173Rock On TommyE4 6a * 
174Hot RatsE4 6a *3
 BORNEO BUTTRESS  
176MarinoVS 4b 1
177GeronimoE2 5c *4
178Savage ManE4 6a  
179BorneoVS 4c *101
180OmoHS 4a 3
181QuercusHS 4b *6
182CynhyrchwyrVS 4c 97
183Tree RadicalHVS 5b 7
184RioHS 4b *261
185Cynchwyr/RioVS 4b *18
 YOGI AREA  
187GwaedE1 5b *53
188PlaceboE3 5c  
189PenicillinE4 6b 1
190ChwysE2 5b **135
191Sheer KhanHVS 5a 14
192Sheer ResistE4 6b *1
193Sheer Khan Right HandS 4a **148
194Keep It RetroHVS 5a 3
195Smarter Than The Average BearVS 4c 150
196YogiVS 4b **876
197Mr RangerVS 4c *125
198MysophobiaVS 4c 4
199Silver ShadowE2 5c  
200TroHS 4a *150
201DagrauE1 5b *51
202LlafurE1 5b *55
203Gardien Des ÉtoilesVS 4b 3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The climb listed here as 'striptease' - vs 5a has recently suffered from a rockfall in the lower section of its first pitch. Some loose rock may remain. Be wary of further rockfall on this route
dmaldonado - 04/May/14
After learning to climb for 4 weeks came here to climb and did shadrach through the crack (chimney) that was annoyingly difficult to get through but a good experience.
Shane Standing - 25/Oct/10
Did Leg Slip recently - it might be a bit harder than HVS Roger Grimshaw
JRG - 09/Jun/09
i am from south wales and it was my first time at tremadog and i thought the overall grades were a bit tougher than the likes of wintours leap and shorncliff
jason morris - 18/Oct/05
When I first started to climb I went to North Wales to get away from the crumbly limestone of the Wye valley where I live. My first climb in Tremadog was Yogi (VS) and I found it probably one of best climbs I have ever done, or certainly the best VS I have ever done. Lovely rock, and when the protection is there it is brilliant and I seem to recall a good abseil station from the top. Nice easy climbing!
Sam Trefgarne - 15/Feb/02