Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

Climbs 190 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
One of the best crags in Wales, with multi-pitch routes up to 250ft. Many classic including Christmas Curry (S), One Step In The Clouds (VS 4c), The Plum (E1 5b), the unbeatable Vector (E2 5c), Void (E3 6a), Zukator (E4 6a) and of course Strawberries (E7 6b) and Dream Topping (E7 6c). Often busy with people exiled by the weather in the Pass.

Access notes
Park near Eric's Caff off the A498. The crag is to the right. Finding the bottom of routes often involves jungle-bashing, so try to work out where you want to be early on. Walk off from the top if possible, and if abseiling is essential then leave a sling around the tree - don't run your rope around it (as that severely damages both).

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Classics (2010), Tremadog (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 GRASPER BUTTRESS 
2GilljoVD *
3Rip TornE2 5c *
4Valerie's RibHS 4a **
5Valerie's Rib DirectS
6ValorE2 5c **
7DiscretionE2 5c
8The Pink FridgeE3 5c *
9The GrasperE2 5c ***
10New ManagementE3 6a
11Zukator / Grasper ConnectionE3 5c ***
12ZukatorE4 6a **
13The Man Who Fell to EarthE4 6a *
14The Man Who Fell To Earth Direct FinishE5 6b
15Quite Easy for Big HeadsE6 6b *
16Marathon ManE5 6a **
17Marathon Man VariationE5 6a
18Clapton's CrackVS 4c **
19The SwordHS
20Clean EdgeE3 6a **
 NEB BUTTRESS 
22Kestrel CracksHVS 5a **
23The NebE2 5c **
24Broken EdgeE2 5c *
25Neb DirectE4 6a ***
26DotheboysE2 6a **
27AnagramE2 5c **
28Final ExamE2 5c *
 PLUM BUTTRESS 
30Magic MushroomE2 5b
31GrottoVS 4c *
32Grotto DirectHVS 5a **
33VindalooE2 5c
34Christmas CurryS 4a ***
35Christmas Curry / Micah EliminateHS 4a ***
36Christmas Curry / Finish Of MomentsE3 5b
37Christmas Curry / Treemudrock Finish (aka Duff Plum Finish)VS 4c **
38Christmas Curry / Lleolwyr FinishE1 5b
39Taste Of ThunderE2 5c
40The PlumE1 5b ***
41The Plum - Crack Addict StartE2 5c
42BombshellHVS 5a
 FANG BUTTRESS 
44MolarHVS 5b
45Footless FrenzyHVS 5a
46QuimboE2 6a
47The FangHVS 5a ***
48The RootE2 5c **
49ExtractionE2 5c **
50StripteaseVS 5a **
51BurlesqueE3 6a **
52High KicksE3 5c *
53G StringHVS 5a *
54TriangulumHS
55Gangani GrooveE1 6a *
 VECTOR BUTTRESS 
57Hail BebeVD **
58One Step in the CloudsVS 4c ***
59Dark SideE2 6a *
60Sultans of SwingE4 6a ***
61DiadicE1 5b **
62NimbusE2 5c **
63Weaver / Nimbus ConnectionE2 5c **
64The WeaverE2 5c ***
65BananasE5 6b **
66LlanberriesE7 6c *
67StrawberriesE7 6b **
68Dream ToppingE7 7a ***
69CreamE4 6a ***
70VectorE2 5c ***
71The CroakerE3 5c *
72The Atomic Finger FlakeE4 6a **
73Swift UndercutE7 6c *
74RaspberriesE4 6b
75VoidE4 6a ***
76The MongooseE5 6a **
77The SnakeE2 5c **
78The PhiltrumE6 6b **
 SHADRACH BUTTRESS 
80Rinkrank variation startE2 5c *
81Grim Wall DirectE1 5b **
82An Argument Among PlanktonE3 6a *
83Leg BreakE3 5c *
84Grim WallVS 4c **
85Ham RouteVS 4c
86MeshachHVS 5a **
87Meshach / Rattlesnake finishE2 5c *
88BlinkersE2 5b *
89Leg break / Meshach / Blinkers HybridE1 5b ***
90ShadrachVS 4c **
91The BrothersVS 4c *
92The Brothers Direct FinishE1 5b **
93What EverVS 5a
94The Brothers Independent FinishE1 5b
95OblatronE3 5c
96Emily StreetE2 5c *
97CarloE1 5b *
98SometimesE3 6a *
 SLIPS AREA 
100Semper Dexter Nil SinisterE1 5b *
101Bashi BazoukE1 5b *
102Nifl-HeimHVS 5a **
103Pizzle PuzzleE3 5c
104Pretzl LogicE2 5c **
105VenomE3 6a **
106Time SlipE3 6a
107Certain SlipE3 6a
108Leg SlipE1 5b **
109First SlipE1 5c **
110Leg Break FinishE2 5c
111Freudian SlipE2 5c
112Slip ShodE3 5c
113The JackalE1 5b
114SlipwayHVS 5a
115Breeze ButtressVD
116Glade wayVS
117Sail MaliHVS 5a
118SolitaireE1 5b
119Crazy DiamondE1 5b
 OAKOVER BUTTRESS 
121Knell for a JackdawS *
122HederaHVS 5a **
123HeaderaHVS 5a
124OakoverVS 4c *
125BloodsuckerE2 5c *
126HeartlineE2 5c **
127AxeoverVS 4c **
128FFalabalamVS 4c *
129AxeminsterVD
130FohnHS 4b *
131ChinookVS 4c *
 MERLIN BUTTRESS 
133Down To EarthE2 5c
134Re-Enter DownE2 6a *
135Re-entryE2 6a
136BelshazzarHVS 5a **
137EarthseaHVS 5a
138Daddy CoolE2 5c **
139SalamandaE1 5b
140The StingE2 5c *
141Daddy Cool/The StingE2 5c **
142Heartbreak HotelHS
143RienettaVS 4c
144Rienetta Variation StartVS **
145DragonE2 6b
146MerlinVS 5a **
147Merlin DirectHVS 5a ***
148VultureE4 6a **
149Vulture DirectE4 6a
150GeireagleE3 5c **
151Y BrogaHVS 5a *
152O BrotherVS 4b
153OberonS 4b *
154What's In A Name?E3 5c
155Oberon Original StartHS 4c
156Oberon Easy StartD
157Oberon Variation FinishHS 4c
158Trivial PursuitsE3 6a
159KaoE5 6a *
160Emotional CrisisE4 5c *
161Tout FouE2 5c
162Bombon El PerroE1 5c
163Santa's Little HelperE1 5b
 FAR EASTERN SLABS 
165Frog NoiseVD
166Cracked SlabD
 BOO-BOO BUTTRESS 
168Park LifeVS 5a
169Boo-BooVD *
170Starship TrooperE4 5c *
171TweekE4 6a
172Rock On TommyE4 6a *
173Hot RatsE4 6a *
 BORNEO BUTTRESS 
175MarinoVS 4b
176GeronimoE2 5c *
177Savage ManE4 6a
178BorneoVS 4c *
179OmoHS 4a
180QuercusHS 4b *
181CynhyrchwyrVS 4c
182Tree RadicalHVS 5b
183RioHS 4b *
184Cynchwyr/RioVS 4b *
 YOGI AREA 
186GwaedE1 5b *
187PlaceboE3 5c
188PenicillinE4 6b
189ChwysE2 5b **
190Sheer KhanHVS 5a
191Sheer ResistE4 6b *
192Sheer Khan Right HandS 4a **
193Keep It RetroHVS 5a
194Smarter Than The Average BearVS 4c
195YogiVS 4b
196Mr RangerVS 4c *
197MysophobiaVS 4c
198Silver ShadowE2 5c
199TroHS 4a *
200DagrauE1 5b
201LlafurE1 5b *
202Gardien Des ÉtoilesVS 4b
203Dragau *E1 5b *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer victim of mathematics

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The climb listed here as 'striptease' - vs 5a has recently suffered from a rockfall in the lower section of its first pitch. Some loose rock may remain. Be wary of further rockfall on this route
dmaldonado - 04/May/14
After learning to climb for 4 weeks came here to climb and did shadrach through the crack (chimney) that was annoyingly difficult to get through but a good experience.
Shane Standing - 25/Oct/10
Did Leg Slip recently - it might be a bit harder than HVS Roger Grimshaw
JRG - 09/Jun/09
i am from south wales and it was my first time at tremadog and i thought the overall grades were a bit tougher than the likes of wintours leap and shorncliff
jason morris - 18/Oct/05
When I first started to climb I went to North Wales to get away from the crumbly limestone of the Wye valley where I live. My first climb in Tremadog was Yogi (VS) and I found it probably one of best climbs I have ever done, or certainly the best VS I have ever done. Lovely rock, and when the protection is there it is brilliant and I seem to recall a good abseil station from the top. Nice easy climbing!
Sam Trefgarne - 15/Feb/02