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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SH 576406 (OS Landranger #124)

Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

Gwynedd, WALES

Climbs 187 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
One of the best crags in Wales, with multi-pitch routes up to 250ft. Many classic including Christmas Curry (S), One Step In The Clouds (VS 4c), The Plum (E1 5b), the unbeatable Vector (E2 5c), Void (E3 6a), Zukator (E4 6a) and of course Strawberries (E7 6b) and Dream Topping (E7 6c). Often busy with people exiled by the weather in the Pass.

Weather forecast

Today	Fri	Sat	Sun	Mon

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Snowdonia – Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
Tremadog (2010), North Wales Classics (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	GRASPER BUTTRESS
2	Gilljo	VD *	110
3	Rip Torn	E2 5c *	3
4	Valerie's Rib	HS 4a **	914
5	Valerie's Rib Direct	S	87
6	Valor	E2 5c **	102
7	Discretion	E2 5c
8	The Pink Fridge	E3 5c *	1
9	The Grasper	E2 5c ***	131
10	New Management	E3 6a
11	Zukator / Grasper Connection	E3 5c ***	18
12	Zukator	E4 6a **	45
13	The Man Who Fell to Earth	E4 6a *	2
14	The Man Who Fell To Earth Direct Finish	E5 6b
15	Quite Easy for Big Heads	E6 6b *
16	Marathon Man	E5 6a **	2
17	Marathon Man Variation	E5 6a
18	Clapton's Crack	VS 4c **	144
19	The Sword	HS	1
20	Clean Edge	E3 6a **	7
	NEB BUTTRESS
22	Kestrel Cracks	HVS 5a **	182
23	The Neb	E2 5c **	71
24	Broken Edge	E2 5c *	10
25	Neb Direct	E4 6a ***	24
26	Dotheboys	E2 6a **	8
27	Anagram	E2 5c **	12
28	Final Exam	E2 5c *	3
	PLUM BUTTRESS
30	Magic Mushroom	E2 5b
31	Grotto	VS 4c *	77
32	Grotto Direct	HVS 5a **	70
33	Vindaloo	E2 5c	16
34	Christmas Curry	S 4a ***	1428
35	Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate	HS 4a ***	1186
36	Christmas Curry / Finish Of Moments	E3 5b
37	Christmas Curry / Treemudrock Finish (aka Duff Plum Finish)	VS 4c **	52
38	Christmas Curry / Lleolwyr Finish	E1 5b	20
39	Taste Of Thunder	E2 5c
40	The Plum	E1 5b ***	651
41	The Plum - Crack Addict Start	E2 5c	11
42	Bombshell	HVS 5a
	FANG BUTTRESS
44	Molar	HVS 5b	6
45	Footless Frenzy	HVS 5a
46	Quimbo	E2 6a
47	The Fang	HVS 5a ***	579
48	The Root	E2 5c **	8
49	Extraction	E2 5c **	183
50	Striptease	VS 5a **	617
51	Burlesque	E3 6a **	25
52	High Kicks	E3 5c *	3
53	G String	HVS 5a *	43
54	Triangulum	HS	16
55	Gangani Groove	E1 6a *
	VECTOR BUTTRESS
57	Hail Bebe	VD **	645
58	One Step in the Clouds	VS 4c ***	1841
59	Dark Side	E2 6a *	4
60	Sultans of Swing	E4 6a ***	15
61	Diadic	E2 5c **	136
62	Nimbus	E2 5c **	89
63	Weaver / Nimbus Connection	E2 5c **	5
64	The Weaver	E2 5c ***	221
65	Bananas	E5 6b **	7
66	Llanberries	E7 6c *
67	Strawberries	E7 6b **	5
68	Dream Topping	E7 7a ***
69	Cream	E4 6a ***	148
70	Vector	E2 5c ***	558
71	The Croaker	E3 5c *	15
72	The Atomic Finger Flake	E4 6a **	47
73	Swift Undercut	E7 6c *
74	Raspberries	E4 6b
75	Void	E4 6a ***	131
76	The Mongoose	E5 6a **	3
77	The Snake	E2 5c **	46
78	The Philtrum	E6 6b **	3
	SHADRACH BUTTRESS
80	Grim Wall Direct	E1 5b **	573
81	An Argument Among Plankton	E3 6a *	2
82	Leg Break	E3 5c *	10
83	Grim Wall	VS 4c **	943
84	Ham Route	VS 4c	5
85	Meshach	HVS 5a **	714
86	Meshach / Rattlesnake finish	E2 5c *	26
87	Blinkers	E2 5b *	5
88	Leg break / Meshach / Blinkers Hybrid	E1 5b ***	24
89	Shadrach	VS 4c **	861
90	The Brothers	VS 4c *	198
91	The Brothers Direct Finish	E1 5b **	35
92	What Ever	VS 5a	1
93	The Brothers Independent Finish	E1 5b	16
94	Oblatron	E3 5c	1
95	Emily Street	E2 5c *	6
96	Carlo	E1 5b *	2
97	Sometimes	E3 6a *	2
	SLIPS AREA
99	Semper Dexter Nil Sinister	E1 5b *	3

	Climb name	Grade	x

100	Bashi Bazouk	E1 5b *	9
101	Nifl-Heim	HVS 5a **	105
102	Pizzle Puzzle	E3 5c
103	Pretzl Logic	E2 5c **	45
104	Venom	E3 6a **	70
105	Time Slip	E3 6a
106	Certain Slip	E3 6a
107	Leg Slip	E1 5b **	317
108	First Slip	E1 5c **	215
109	Leg Break Finish	E2 5c
110	Freudian Slip	E2 5c	7
111	Slip Shod	E3 5c
112	The Jackal	E1 5b
113	Slipway	HVS 5a	1
114	Breeze Buttress	VD
115	Sail Mali	HVS 5a
116	Solitaire	E1 5b
117	Crazy Diamond	E1 5b
	OAKOVER BUTTRESS
119	Knell for a Jackdaw	S *	39
120	Hedera	HVS 5a **	26
121	Headera	HVS 5a	2
122	Oakover	VS 4c *	111
123	Bloodsucker	E2 5c *	10
124	Heartline	E2 5c **	24
125	Axeover	VS 4c **	61
126	FFalabalam	VS 4c *	19
127	Axeminster	VD	25
128	Fohn	HS 4b *	7
129	Chinook	VS 4c *	1
	MERLIN BUTTRESS
131	Down To Earth	E2 5c
132	Re-Enter Down	E2 6a *
133	Re-entry	E2 6a	4
134	Belshazzar	HVS 5a **	103
135	Earthsea	HVS 5a	7
136	Daddy Cool	E2 5c **	93
137	Salamanda	E1 5b	36
138	The Sting	E2 5c *	38
139	Heartbreak Hotel	HS	1
140	Rienetta	VS 4c	95
141	Rienetta Variation Start	VS **	3
142	Dragon	E2 6b
143	Merlin	VS 5a **	402
144	Merlin Direct	HVS 5a ***	830
145	Vulture	E4 6a **	46
146	Vulture Direct	E4 6a
147	Geireagle	E3 5c **	136
148	Y Broga	HVS 5a *	197
149	O Brother	VS 4b	2
150	Oberon	S *	900
151	What's In A Name?	E3 5c
152	Oberon Original Start	HS 4c	24
153	Oberon Easy Start	D	3
154	Oberon Variation Finish	HS 4c	52
155	Trivial Pursuits	E3 6a
156	Kao	E5 6a *
157	Emotional Crisis	E4 5c *	4
158	Tout Fou	E2 5c
159	Bombon El Perro	E1 5c
160	Santa's Little Helper	E1 5b
	FAR EASTERN SLABS
162	Frog Noise	VD	10
163	Cracked Slab	D	44
	BOO-BOO BUTTRESS
165	Park Life	VS 5a	2
166	Boo-Boo	VD *	598
167	Starship Trooper	E4 5c *	1
168	Tweek	E4 6a
169	Rock On Tommy	E4 6a *
170	Hot Rats	E4 6a *	1
	BORNEO BUTTRESS
172	Marino	VS 4b	1
173	Geronimo	E2 5c *	3
174	Savage Man	E4 6a
175	Borneo	VS 4c *	67
176	Omo	HS 4a	1
177	Quercus	HS 4b *	4
178	Cynhyrchwyr	VS 4c	73
179	Tree Radical	HVS 5b	6
180	Rio	HS 4b *	169
	YOGI AREA
182	Gwaed	E1 5b *	41
183	Placebo	E3 5c
184	Penicillin	E4 6b	1
185	Chwys	E2 5b **	103
186	Sheer Khan	HVS 5a	6
187	Sheer Resist	E4 6b *
188	Sheer Khan Right Hand	S 4a **	67
189	Keep It Retro	HVS 5a	2
190	Smarter Than The Average Bear	VS 4c	102
191	Yogi	VS 4b	642
192	Mr Ranger	VS 4c *	73
193	Mysophobia	VS 4c	2
194	Silver Shadow	E2 5c
195	Tro	HS 4a *	98
196	Dagrau	E1 5b	37
197	Llafur	E1 5b *	31
198	Gardien Des Étoiles	VS 4b	3

Joe Brown (Llanberis)
Llanberis, GWYNEDD
www.joe-brown.com

Advertise here

Access notes
Park near Eric's Caff off the A498. The crag is to the right. Finding the bottom of routes often involves jungle-bashing, so try to work out where you want to be early on. Walk off from the top if possible, and if abseiling is essential then leave a sling around the tree - don't run your rope around it (as that severely damages both).

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer victim of mathematics

USER FEEDBACK

After learning to climb for 4 weeks came here to climb and did shadrach through the crack (chimney) that was annoyingly difficult to get through but a good experience.
Shane Standing

- 25/Oct/10

Did Leg Slip recently - it might be a bit harder than HVS Roger Grimshaw
JRG - 09/Jun/09

i am from south wales and it was my first time at tremadog and i thought the overall grades were a bit tougher than the likes of wintours leap and shorncliff
jason morris - 18/Oct/05

When I first started to climb I went to North Wales to get away from the crumbly limestone of the Wye valley where I live. My first climb in Tremadog was Yogi (VS) and I found it probably one of best climbs I have ever done, or certainly the best VS I have ever done. Lovely rock, and when the protection is there it is brilliant and I seem to recall a good abseil station from the top. Nice easy climbing!
Sam Trefgarne - 15/Feb/02

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