Climbs 195
Rocktype Schist

Lake Wanaka, New Zealand © Chris F

Crag features

Wanaka is a major sport climbing area in one of the most scenic areas of the country. Most of the rock climbing is in an are of outcrops 15km from Wanaka, up the Matukituki valley. Most of the crags arent large or particularly asthetic but they do have a good range of routes, particularly edgey in nature. The many areas do split climbers up so avoiding crowds. There is also a good bouldering area on the way to the crags.

Approach notes

Lambing season (1st october - 15 november) - although the crags are not closed, climbers must be considerate not to disturb the sheep during this period.

The roadside attraction sector is closed due to a rockfall (Aug 14) which has removed several climbs.
GPN - 10/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gentleman's Club 
2Picking Locks
-
26 ***1
 Al Cap 
4Righteous
-
27 ***1
 Cattle Yard 
6Butt Crack Wedgy17 *3
7Bathroom Refugee
-
17 *4
8Gorillas in the Schist18 ***9
9Schistose Intolerance23 ***1
10Merry Schistmas22 **2
 The Little Big Wall 
12Turn On Tune In Drop Out16 **14
13Wickedness Increased
-
20 **1
14The Full Monty
-
19 **1
15Papparazzi Party
-
21 1
16Roque Erratic
-
25 ***3
 The Tombstone 
18Six Feet Under10 2
19Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun
-
17 *25
20Fingers Columbia
-
17 *22
21Rusty Pins18 29
22The Crack17 **31
23Discoinferno
-
20 *5
24Lunge Starter24 5
 The Engine Block 
26The Radiator
-
9 *14
27Short Cut to Exposure
-
17 ***11
 Chopping Block 
29Meat Cleaver21 1
 Whale Watching 
31No Thanks I'd Rather Walk
-
20 *2
32Moby Dick
-
25 **1
 The Main Cliff 
34Senstra Dexter
-
20 *5
35The Big Corner14 **34
36Bang My Drum18 *1
37Headbangers Arete
-
17 ***42
38After Burner18 4
39Wasted on the Wing
-
14 *18
40Straight Up The Face
-
18 3
41Do I Have To?
-
13 *26
42Quite Nifty
-
13 7
 Warm Leatharete 
44Aikido
-
27 **1
45Doing the World a Favour
-
22 ***1
46Quick Fix
-
19 **2
 Highside 
48Attict
-
27 ***1
49Simon's Virginity Route
-
20 **1
50Emoticon
-
23 *2
51Bula
-
16 **1
 Hangover 
53She's a Little Goer20 **1
54Paparazzis Revenge20 *1
55Pocket Edition23 **1
 Conservatory 
57Sweet Sixteen16 **4
58Showtime18 **3
 Crackhouse 
60Critics Choice
-
20 ***2
61Slip Thru The Cracks
-
27 ***2
 Sunnyside 
63Fire Up the Jet Bitch
-
27 *1
64Momentum
-
27 **1
65Sun Salute
-
26 **1
66Bastard Of Cleardale23 **3
67El Nino17 *1
68Mean Streak23 **1
6974HQ21 *1
70Mum's on the Run
-
21 **1
71Head on24 *2
72Sisters of Mercy22 **1
73Shark Chirac22 **2
74Anagaanga21 **1
75Who Stole My Dorris
-
26 **1
76No Sweat
-
27 ***1
77All That Remains
-
24 **1
78Mental as Anything25 ***4
79Winners and Losers19 **3
 Cutting 
81Happy Fat Men
-
18 ***3
82The Whole Enchilada
-
19 **2
83The 2 1/2 Minute Man
-
26 **1
84Falcon Steep
-
22 ***1
 Icehouse 
86The Cutting Edge20 *1
 Bakehouse 
88H5B3
-
8 *2
89Where The Hell is Little's River
-
12 *5
90Curiously Sheepish
-
14 *10
91Stealing Candy From A Baby17 **6
92Genetic Betrayal
-
17 *12
93Groover
-
17 *6
94Seam Stress23 **2
95Get Off That Cow
-
16 6
96Monkey Toes
-
13 1
97Milk and Cookies
-
13 **8
 Brummy Crag 
99Matt's Route
-
18 *1
100Easy off Spam
-
16 1
101Fist it18 *1
102The Dirty Browny
-
19 *1
 Kai Whaka Pai 
104Under the Moonlight15 **6
105Phormium Tenax12 *2
106Strike!14 ***5
107Friction in the Kitchen16 2
108Pulp Fiction15 **5
109Nice & Sleazy Does It All The Time17 2
110Paul's Route14 **3
111Climb Into The Unknown17 **3
112Weaker Sex15 **2
113Kai Time18 *2
114Journey Through Time17 *5
115Glen's Grotto17 *6
116Food for Thought19 **4
 Hotline Area 
118Big & Chossy Bedroom Sossy18 ***1
119Hey George21 *1
120Fuckity Fuck Fuck19 ***3
 Spade Slab 
122Dried and Bagged19 **1
123Venus in Furs
-
23 ***1
124Clubs On Campus26 **1
 Diamond Slab 
126Picture Perfect
-
29 ***1
127Cornered18 *2
128Get a Job
-
18 ***13
129Naked On The Neve20 **7
130Got a Job17 *12
131Ex-squeeze Me
-
19 *9
132Sand Gropers
-
15 *7
133Feeling Rampant
-
18 5a **3
 Pencil Dick 
135Drop In, Drop out
-
18 *2
136Botox Viagra21 **2
137Take No Prisoners
-
22 ***3
138My Little One
-
24 ***1
139Stick it in
-
20 ***3
140Reach For The Purple Love Truncheon
-
26 **1
141Wet Winkle
-
22 *1
142Magic Carpet Ride
-
26 *1
 Sharon Stone 
144Hearts and Minds20 **1
145Need To Unwind
-
23 ***1
146Forgive and Forget24 *1
147Ode to the Golden Pelt
-
26 *1
 Rock Hudson 
149Riddled with Aids18 * 
150Thing 218 **2
151Tony's Attraction18 *2
152Cafe Chatter17 *2
 Riverside 
154The Vaslava Manoeuver
-
16 5
155Infinite Inveigling
-
16 *9
156Dog Leg
-
12 8
157Occupational Therapy
-
14 13
158Generation X
-
16 *13
159Right Ascension
-
14 *11
160Progressive Leadership14 *1
161Supersize Me
-
15 9
162Grandma Funk
-
16 *6
163Cryptology
-
19 *7
164Terrain Spotting
-
17 **13
165Te Whanau
-
18 **13
166Get Kerfuffled
-
17 7
167Moana Magic
-
27 *1
168Lollapalooza
-
25 ***2
169Zoot Alors
-
23 ***1
170Honey I Blew Up the Atoll
-
22 *1
171Microcosmos
-
25 *1
 Garden Bar 
173Yang
-
17 1
174Glenns
-
15 2
 Toad Hall 
176Crocadoos and Kangadiles
-
22 *1
177River Rat
-
26 **2
178Mr Toad
-
28 **1
179Recidivism
-
27 **1
 Roadside Attraction 
181Judges Wine16 *6
182Elvis Trashes his Car
-
15 *10
183Strawberry
-
15 *14
184Self Directed Learning Tool
-
17 2
185Aratuatahi
-
16 **21
186Practising Arms
-
20 3
187Aspiring Arseholes16 **16
188Slightly English
-
18 *8
189Nasal Excavations
-
18 *10
190The Ramp
-
18 *4
191Papal's Nasal
-
18 *5
192Aretenaphobia
-
21 ***14
193Flying Guts
-
26 1
 AlCove 
195Ole
-
18 *2
196Where's Dr. Holdfinder?
-
23 **2
197The Colonel's Secret
-
22 **1
198Chinese Hospitality
-
19 *2
199Huha
-
26 **1
200The Army Route
-
19 *1
 Far Side 
202Clean Me
-
16 *2
203Beyond Boredom And Anxiety16 *2
204Jock the Frotterer
-
18 **3
205In Flagrante Delecto
-
19 **3
206Girl Trouble
-
17 *2
207Boguns
-
17  
 Pearly Gate 
209Gecko
-
20 ***1
 Phoebe Creek 
211Zizagy
-
19 ***1
212Sex Beat
-
20 ***1
 Mt Iron - Next Best Thing 
214Toe the Line
-
19 **3
215Mind Bender
-
25 *1
 Ironside 
217Spiral Staircase20 1
218Supersonic22 *1
219Sonic20 *1
220Irony25 ***1
 Iron Curtain 
222Pitchin and Moanin
-
19 1
223I May be Old, But Atleast I'm Crusty
-
23 **1
224The Bastard From Gunn Road
-
25 ***1
225The Complete Bastard
-
27 *1
226The Good Bastard
-
27 ***1
 UNSORTED 
228Disco Inferno
-
21 1
 -- 
230Heli Beli *
-
16 *1
231Afghan *23 1
232At Your Leisure *21 *1
233Crack Under Pressure *24 1
234The Nutty Professor *19 *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer disturbed_one51