Wanaka

Climbs 183 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Wanaka is a major sport climbing area in one of the most scenic areas of the country. Most of the rock climbing is in an are of outcrops 15km from Wanaka, up the Matukituki valley. Most of the crags arent large or particularly asthetic but they do have a good range of routes, particularly edgey in nature. The many areas do split climbers up so avoiding crowds. There is also a good bouldering area on the way to the crags.

Access notes
Lambing season (1st october - 15 november) - although the crags are not closed, climbers must be considerate not to disturb the sheep during this period.

Guidebooks
Wanaka Rock (2005), South Island Rock (2005), Rock Deluxe (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 AL CAP  
2Righteous27 ***1
 CATTLE YARD  
4Butt Crack Wedgy17 *3
5Bathroom Refugee17 *2
6Gorillas in the Schist18 ***6
7Schistose Intolerance23 ***1
8Merry Schistmas22 **2
 THE LITTLE BIG WALL  
10Turn On Tune In Drop Out16 **14
11Wickedness Increased20 **1
12The Full Monty19 **1
13Papparazzi Party21 1
14Roque Erratic25 ***3
 THE TOMBSTONE  
16Six Feet Under10 2
17Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun17 *23
18Fingers Columbia17 *18
19Rusty Pins18 26
20The Crack17 **27
21Discoinferno20 *5
22Lunge Starter24 2
 THE ENGINE BLOCK  
24The Radiator9 *14
25Short Cut to Exposure17 ***11
 CHOPPING BLOCK  
27Meat Cleaver21 1
 WHALE WATCHING  
29No Thanks I'd Rather Walk20 *2
30Moby Dick25 **1
 THE MAIN CLIFF  
32Senstra Dexter20 *5
33The Big Corner14 **31
34Headbangers Arete17 ***38
35After Burner18 2
36Wasted on the Wing14 *16
37Straight Up The Face18 2
38Do I Have To?13 *26
39Quite Nifty13 7
 WARM LEATHARETE  
41Aikido27 **1
42Doing the World a Favour22 ***1
43Quick Fix19 **2
 HIGHSIDE  
45Attict27 ***1
46Simon's Virginity Route20 **1
47Emoticon23 *2
48Bula16 **1
 HANGOVER  
50She's a Little Goer20 **1
51Paparazzis Revenge20 *1
52Pocket Edition23 **1
 CONSERVATORY  
54Sweet Sixteen16 **4
55Showtime18 **3
 CRACKHOUSE  
57Critics Choice20 ***2
58Slip Thru The Cracks27 ***1
 SUNNYSIDE  
60Fire Up the Jet Bitch27 *1
61Momentum27 **1
62Sun Salute26 **1
63Bastard Of Cleardale23 **2
6474HQ21 *1
65Mum's on the Run21 **1
66Head on24 *2
67Sisters of Mercy22 ** 
68Shark Chirac22 **1
69Anagaanga21 **1
70Who Stole My Dorris26 **1
71No Sweat27 ***1
72All That Remains24 **1
73Mental as Anything25 ***3
74Winners and Losers19 **2
 CUTTING  
76Happy Fat Men18 ***3
77The Whole Enchilada19 **2
78The 2 1/2 Minute Man26 **1
79Falcon Steep22 ***1
 ICEHOUSE  
81The Cutting Edge20 *1
 BAKEHOUSE  
83H5B38 *2
84Where The Hell is Little's River12 *5
85Curiously Sheepish14 *10
86Stealing Candy From A Baby17 **6
87Genetic Betrayal17 *12
88Groover17 *6
89Seam Stress23 **2
90Get Off That Cow16 5
91Milk and Cookies12 7
 KAI WHAKA PAI  
93Under the Moonlight15 **6
94Phormium Tenax12 *2
95Strike!14 ***5
96Friction in the Kitchen16 2
97Pulp Fiction15 **5
98Nice & Sleazy Does It All The Time17 2
99Paul's Route14 **3
100Climb Into The Unknown17 **3
101Weaker Sex15 **2
102Kai Time18 *2
103Journey Through Time17 *4
104Glen's Grotto17 *5
105Food for Thought19 **4
 HOTLINE AREA  
107Big & Chossy Bedroom Sossy18 ***1
108Hey George21 *1
109Fuckity Fuck Fuck19 ***3
 SPADE SLAB  
111Dried and Bagged19 **1
112Venus in Furs23 ***1
113Clubs On Campus26 **1
 DIAMOND SLAB  
115Picture Perfect29 ***1
116Cornered18 *2
117Get a Job18 ***13
118Naked On The Neve20 **7
119Got a Job17 *11
120Ex-squeeze Me19 *9
121Sand Gropers15 *7
122Feeling Rampant18 5a **3
 PENCIL DICK  
124Drop In, Drop out18 *2
125Take No Prisoners22 ***3
126My Little One24 ***1
127Stick it in20 ***3
128Reach For The Purple Love Truncheon26 **1
129Wet Winkle22 *1
130Magic Carpet Ride26 *1
 SHARON STONE  
132Hearts and Minds20 **1
133Need To Unwind23 ***1
134Ode to the Golden Pelt26 *1
 ROCK HUDSON  
136Riddled with Aids18 * 
137Thing 218 **2
138Tony's Attraction18 *2
139Cafe Chatter17 *2
 RIVERSIDE  
141The Vaslava Manoeuver16 5
142Infinite Inveigling16 *9
143Dog Leg12 8
144Occupational Therapy14 12
145Generation X16 *11
146Right Ascension14 *10
147Supersize Me15 8
148Grandma Funk16 *4
149Cryptology19 *6
150Terrain Spotting17 **13
151Te Whanau18 **12
152Get Kerfuffled17 7
153Moana Magic27 *1
154Lollapalooza26 ***2
155Zoot Alors23 ***1
156Honey I Blew Up the Atoll22 *1
157Microcosmos25 *1
 GARDEN BAR  
159Yang17 1
160Glenns15 2
 TOAD HALL  
162Crocadoos and Kangadiles22 *1
163River Rat26 **1
164Mr Toad28 **1
165Recidivism27 **1
 ROADSIDE ATTRACTION  
167Judges Wine16 *4
168Elvis Trashes his Car15 *10
169Strawberry15 *14
170Self Directed Learning Tool17 2
171Aratuatahi16 **20
172Practising Arms20 3
173Aspiring Arseholes16 **15
174Slightly English18 *8
175Nasal Excavations18 *9
176The Ramp18 *4
177Papal's Nasal18 *5
178Aretenaphobia21 ***14
179Flying Guts26 1
 ALCOVE  
181Ole18 *2
182Where's Dr. Holdfinder?23 **2
183Chinese Hospitality19 *2
184Huha26 **1
185The Army Route19 *1
 FAR SIDE  
187Clean Me16 *2
188Beyond Boredom And Anxiety16 *2
189Jock the Frotterer18 **3
190In Flagrante Delecto19 **3
191Girl Trouble17 *2
192Boguns17  
 PEARLY GATE  
194Gecko20 ***1
 PHOEBE CREEK  
196Zizagy19 ***1
197Sex Beat20 ***1
 MT IRON - NEXT BEST THING  
199Toe the Line19 **3
200Mind Bender25 *1
 IRONSIDE  
202Spiral Staircase20 1
203Supersonic22 *1
204Sonic20 *1
205Irony25 ***1
 IRON CURTAIN  
207Pitchin and Moanin19 1
208I May be Old, But Atleast I'm Crusty23 **1
209The Bastard From Gunn Road25 ***1
210The Complete Bastard27 *1
211The Good Bastard27 ***1
 UNSORTED  
 --  
214Picking Locks *26 ***1
215Forgive and Forget *25 1
216Botox Viagra *21 *2
217The dirty Browny *18 *1
218Fist it *18 *1
219Matts route *18 *1
220Easy off Spam *17 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer disturbed_one51

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The roadside attraction sector is closed due to a rockfall (Aug 14) which has removed several climbs.
GPN - 10/Nov/14