Climbs 37
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces E

Olly finishing at Sheeps Tor © Matt Walters

Crag features

Excellent climbing for the lower-grade climber with routes up to 35ft. Eminently worthwhile routes despite the lack of height. Recommendations include Mushroom Wall (VS 4c) and Wind Wall (HVS 5a). Also Sheltered Crack (VD).

South Devon Mountaineering Club Topo can be found at: http://api.ning.com/files/3e*IS6iJr3KAg3bOnj3MZ1hCUvWDi94PmzRfoGuRWlNhBrdP10Qvhp-ojRwLUzzLNp3-YcKAtL729j5X6abusFeqNbg8*pXE/sheepstor_1_.pdf

Approach notes

From the village of Sheepstor, head N to another road (signposted The Kennels). This goes to within a few hundred metres of the tor.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
Plymouth University's Climbing Club (named Adventure and Expo) will be setting up top ropes here on the 10th and 11th of October in an effort to get more people into climbing! Just a heads up that the crag will be busy on those days
miltonwakefield - 22/Sep/15
ruined by top rope scum
Stanners - 27/Sep/14
Max it looks like Barking Variation VDiff. See the link above from the South Devon Mountaineering Club and it seems to be illustrated on their topo.
andrea83 - 12/May/13
Between Dandelion and Barking crack there is a leftward slanting flake. I would say about Severe grade. It is not on UKC or in the Cordee guide book. Anybody know if it has a name? Seems to obvious a feature not to.
Max Streeton - 03/Dec/12
The 'Windgather' of Devon, Polished.....
SGD - 18/Sep/11
Seems to be significantly more polished then when I first climbed here (2004ish), not surprising really considering its popularity.
Phil79 - 08/Jun/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Play CrackD 368
2Long RouteVD 51
3Workers WallHS 4a *478
4Fingerin'
-
HVS 5b 52
5Crack & ChimneyS 4a **688
6Wind WallHVS 5a *453
7Slab RouteD **631
8Slanting CrackS 4a 506
9Mushroom WallVS 5a *605
10Mushroom Wall AreteHS 5c *36
11Omega CrackHVD *521
12BurdockHS 4a *555
13Overhang CrackS 4a *542
14DandelionS 4a *582
15Barking CrackHVD *547
16Sheltered Arete
-
E1 5b *143
17Sheltered WallE1 5c 134
18Sheltered CrackD 598
19Flake WallVD 21
20Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 13
21bracket wall
-
VD 40
22Arete right of Sheltered CrackD 73
23SnapdragonVD 47
24Yogi WallVD 33
25The MantleshelfD 25
26AmandaV8 **2
27Sherpa and Sherpef6B **3
28Early Topout Copoutf6A 3
297up8Downf6A *2
30Like Kindred Spiritsf7A+ ***1
31Crystal Showersf5+  
32Grumpy Bitchf5+  
33Shallow CornerVD *38
34Sit start to Mushroom WallV2 3
35ThrutchHS 4c 10
36Ivy BendVD 4

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Macca_7